Good tip for a frugal DIY tool. I still have the model 6520 EZ Center Shot Tuning Tool from Advanced Hunting Technology (it's ancient). It was nice to have the small calibration ruler that sat on top of the arrow. It used peep sight rubber tubing. Both are great tools to get start with for center shot.
Some systems require shimming to move the cams left and right, or yoke tuning. If your string is not dead center in your riser, you’ll have to fix that before doing this
@@toothofthearrowbroadheads Just imagine that when shot the string needs to lay down right in the middle of the cam string groove as it rolls back into place and all will be well. So just visualize that when tuning the cams. I have seen bows come unstrung when shot when out of alignment there and the handle is torqued a little. Limbs vary in torque ability. Split, singles or dual. You want a little play when torquing to prevent derailing but at the cost of moving your tune left or right. That is why all rest should be in the pivot point of the rest but nobody does that. When they started resting arrow shafts behind the riser to shoot shorter arrows they created that torque problem and for some reason never went back even though they shoot longer arrows again. Just rotate your grip. You will see there is a point that the rest or arrow does not move right or left. Kind of like the north pole never moves. Rotates around center axis. The sights mounted way out in front also exaggerate this left right aim point movement. Get them closer to the riser. I am amazed anyone can hit so well but if you put enough expensive equipment to counter what the other equipment does after hooking up the other equipment it may all work out.
pretty good advice. One caveat. The string has to be in the center aligned with all that hardware in the middle. Assuming the cams and limbs are all aligned with that,, wammo! I would align the cams if out, then ensure aligned with limbs all to the riser and then you have the two perfectly lined up points and should be shootin center when all done. I dont even mount equipment till I have a tuned bow to riser which is where your limb bolts are. In short you are aliging the end of the limb to the other end and correcting tilt on the cam first. You may be better to line that shaft up to the middle or upper part of the berger hole. When those were originally put on the old metal hanger compounds they used a bolt with an arrow rest on the end of it that put the arrow right on top or half way up the berger hole. I bet that carry over is till expecting that arrow shaft center to be right close to the top of that berger hole. I find it funny that howard hill could hit an aspirin out of the air and won 167 field tournaments in a row all while his arrow was pointing WAY left of center on the string riser and limbs. That arrow wants to go there within the path that the limbs and string are pointing. It may flip around a bit to get there but will make it if the arrow can bend enough to work it out. Usually straightens out before 15 yards.
You are right that a severe cam lean will make this method not effective, but you would notice that very quickly after shooting through paper (I hope)! Thanks so much for watching and commenting Leigh
Good tip for a frugal DIY tool. I still have the model 6520 EZ Center Shot Tuning Tool from Advanced Hunting Technology (it's ancient). It was nice to have the small calibration ruler that sat on top of the arrow. It used peep sight rubber tubing. Both are great tools to get start with for center shot.
Great insight! Thanks for watching and sharing
Great tip ! Love the Kill'n Stix as well
They have worked great for me for years now!
Good video. Good tip!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Wicked idea
It has worked for me every time!
Cool tip! Where did you buy the elastic band?
I found a huge bag of them at a dollar store on time and it’s lasted me for years
What if ur cams are offset?
Some systems require shimming to move the cams left and right, or yoke tuning. If your string is not dead center in your riser, you’ll have to fix that before doing this
@@toothofthearrowbroadheads Just imagine that when shot the string needs to lay down right in the middle of the cam string groove as it rolls back into place and all will be well. So just visualize that when tuning the cams. I have seen bows come unstrung when shot when out of alignment there and the handle is torqued a little. Limbs vary in torque ability. Split, singles or dual. You want a little play when torquing to prevent derailing but at the cost of moving your tune left or right. That is why all rest should be in the pivot point of the rest but nobody does that. When they started resting arrow shafts behind the riser to shoot shorter arrows they created that torque problem and for some reason never went back even though they shoot longer arrows again. Just rotate your grip. You will see there is a point that the rest or arrow does not move right or left. Kind of like the north pole never moves. Rotates around center axis. The sights mounted way out in front also exaggerate this left right aim point movement. Get them closer to the riser. I am amazed anyone can hit so well but if you put enough expensive equipment to counter what the other equipment does after hooking up the other equipment it may all work out.
pretty good advice. One caveat. The string has to be in the center aligned with all that hardware in the middle. Assuming the cams and limbs are all aligned with that,, wammo! I would align the cams if out, then ensure aligned with limbs all to the riser and then you have the two perfectly lined up points and should be shootin center when all done. I dont even mount equipment till I have a tuned bow to riser which is where your limb bolts are. In short you are aliging the end of the limb to the other end and correcting tilt on the cam first. You may be better to line that shaft up to the middle or upper part of the berger hole. When those were originally put on the old metal hanger compounds they used a bolt with an arrow rest on the end of it that put the arrow right on top or half way up the berger hole. I bet that carry over is till expecting that arrow shaft center to be right close to the top of that berger hole.
I find it funny that howard hill could hit an aspirin out of the air and won 167 field tournaments in a row all while his arrow was pointing WAY left of center on the string riser and limbs. That arrow wants to go there within the path that the limbs and string are pointing. It may flip around a bit to get there but will make it if the arrow can bend enough to work it out. Usually straightens out before 15 yards.
You are right that a severe cam lean will make this method not effective, but you would notice that very quickly after shooting through paper (I hope)! Thanks so much for watching and commenting
Leigh