How to Apply a Systemic Insecticide Root Drench | DoMyOwn.com
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- A systemic root drench application of an insecticide offers long-lasting prevention and treatment to protect your ornamental shrubs and trees from damage from sucking insects such as aphids, mealybugs, scale, emerald ash borers, and others.
Check Out Our Article "How to Apply a Systemic Insecticide Root Drench" here! bit.ly/3crWIRZ
Products Recommended by Our Pros:
Quali-Pro Imidacloprid 2F... bit.ly/3HEnaWX
Safari 20SG Systemic Insecticide with Dinotefuran... bit.ly/3HuCNjy
Zylam Liquid Systemic Insecticide... bit.ly/3wRMuna
Always make sure to read the product label of any product you're using before applying it. We also provide free expert advice and are available for any questions you may have on product recommendations or application instructions.
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I'm a professional landscape entomologist who teaches the arboriculture industry. This is an excellent video!
Thank you for your kind comment!
WOW 🤩 THANK YOU!! This video has taught me more than any other on systemic treatments!! Appreciate you taking the time to share ❤
Wow, so helpful! Thank you!!
Helpful, thanks!
Thank you!!
Well done, only thing I would add is to use a water soluble fertilizer with it. I think you also sell "grow more". This would help the tree with stress at the same time. Being a water soluble fertilizer, you won't burn the roots like a granular would.
I've been self treating my Ash tree with imidacloprid for 4 years.
As of today, it still looks perfect. There are 2 untreated ash trees within 100 yards on other properties that are dead from the borers.
Crossing my fingers.
Good information, well instructed and I just love the tea cozy on Kayla's head. I am wondering if Kayla's next video will be on the application of systemic insecticides for unwanted men. )
will this work on pecan trees?
Do you guys have a systemic fungicide root drench video?
We don't right now, but we take customer feedback very seriously. Thanks for the great idea!
Is there a systemic soil drench for spider mites? Thanks
We are not aware of any systemic products which are currently on the market for spider mite control that can be applied as a drench application. Spider mites can be very difficult to control, especially if the wrong product is used (or the right product misused), the population may become distressed and reproduce at higher rates than normal causing a population explosion. Avid Miticide www.domyown.com/avid-015-ec-miticide-insecticide-p-2330.html is an effective option, which can be applied every seven days for 2-3 weeks and then monthly for maintenance directly to the plant you are treating. Talstar P Professional Insecticide www.domyown.com/talstar-professional-insecticide-p-97.html is another good option, which provides optimal spider mite control when applied during spring to mid-summer. The addition of a surfactant or horticultural oil may increase the effectiveness of this product. Applications of Talstar P may be rotated with those of other products that have different modes of action in control programs that are designed to manage resistance by spider mites. You may also wish to consult with your local cooperative extension office for resistance management recommendations in your region. npic.orst.edu/pest/countyext.htm
Should this work on citrus trees? And when is the best time of the year to pour this product.
Hi, we do carry Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus Vegetable Concentrate that is labeled for use on citrus trees. Treatment is typically done in the spring before summer pests. Thank you.
www.domyown.com/bayer-advanced-fruit-citrus-and-vegetable-insect-control-p-2033.html
So this will only work if you do it pre-seasom such as in the fall for the following spring and summer? I was actually looking up why a large maple tree over my backyard/driveway was dripping sap onto my grass, driveway and vehicles. In my research, I found out that it is not sap from the maple tree, it's actually honeydew from an insect infestation which is how I came to find your video... I was hoping to find something a bit more instant, but for an instant treatment, I'd somehow have to get to the top of the tree and spray... This man does not go more than 6 ft above the ground at any time, so that isn't happening 🤣 I will prepare for an insecticide root drench in the fall. As for this year, I will just deal with washing my car multiple times per week. 😂 Fantastic video and information though, I thank you for it.
Systemic drenches can be used to prevent or also curatively but they take time to work. Drenches may take up to 6 weeks to work. Depending on the severity you may also consider doing a foliar application with a horticultural oil such as Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil while you wait for the systemic drench to start working. www.domyown.com/bonide-all-seasons-horticultural-spray-oil-p-1525.html
If we arent going to eat any apples the year of treatment, can we use Monterey NLG3304, 1 Pint Garden Phos, Brown/A. ? This is for an Arkansas Black (2 year old) that has suspected root /crown rot, Was recently transplanted ? Thanks in advance
Per the manufacturer you can use the product if you dispose of the apples the entire year after treatment.
wow my tree is 50" around and divided by pie (3.14) rounds up to 16, so 16 ounces of product per gallon, but how many gallons? My tree line is 25 feet?
When doing and root drench, you want to use enough water to evenly and thoroughly cover the root zone under the canopy. This is typically no less than 10 gallons of water but refer to the insecticide product label you are using for the manufacturer's recommended amounts.
Please let us know if you have any further questions
not clear on how much water to use; some sources indicate 5 gallons of water for over 15" trunk diameter (at DBH), some others 2 gallons. I could not find exact info on the instructions that came with the product. Returning the BAYER Merit 2F insecticide due to horrible (or lack of) directions.
Most people use a 5 gallon bucket or a large watering can to apply Merit 2F as a soil drench. www.domyown.com/merit-2f-insecticide-p-3929.html?sub_id=3930 You will need 0.1 to 0.2 fl. oz. (3 to 6 mL) of Merit per inch of trunk diameter for trees. The amount of water that is used will vary depending on soil conditions and volumes that are easy for applicators to use. The minimum amount of water that should be used is 1 pint per inch of trunk diameter but you may use 1 quart -1 gallon of water per inch of trunk diameter for trees as well. Denser soils such as clay do not accept water as readily, so the lower volume of water is suggested. Since sandy soils can accept more water, using the higher volume of water is preferred. After the soil drench has been applied you should water it in with at east 1/2 inch of water. Note: Water simply acts as a carrier and it is important that even distribution of the product is achieved. Thus, more water may be used if the applicator feels runoff will not occur and proper penetration of the root zone is achieved. Insecticides applied to the soil are taken up by the roots and translocated throughout the tree or shrub. Root/soil drenches offer the advantage of requiring no special equipment to apply (other than a bucket or watering can). However, surface layers of organic matter, such as mulch or leaf litter, can bind the insecticide and reduce uptake. Before applying drenches, it is important to remove or pull back any mulch or dead leaves so the insecticide solution is poured directly on the mineral soil. It is also important to keep the soil around the tree or shrub moist for the next 7-10 days after applications to encourage uptake.
Is Imidicloprid good for lawn grubs?
Many imidcloprid products are labeled for control of grubs on lawns. Just be sure you are following the directions for the specific product that you are using. We have more tips on grub control in this guide, too: www.domyown.com/how-to-get-rid-of-grubs-a-584.html
That's not EAB damage, that's elm bark beetle damage in the beginning.
Why can’t it be used on Linden trees? Is there an alternative? The Japanese beetles just devour our Lindens ever year 😣
Permethrin SFR www.domyown.com/permethrin-sfr-368-125-gallon-p-445.html is a great choice for Japanese Beetle control. Be sure to use it at the highest concentration, avoiding the blooms if possible (may cause browing). Permethrin SFR may need to be applied once per month to avoid Japanese beetle damage. Another option would be Dominion 2L. You should mix .6 fluid oz. Dominion 2L per gallon of water.
www.domyown.com/dominion-2l-termiticide-concentrate-p-1223.html
Imidacloprid is detrimental to pollinators and is responsible for bee kills on linden and other tilia species. Likewise, permethrin should not be used as a soil drench treatment on tilia species (linden, basswood) for the same reason.
Check out our article on how to apply a systemic root drench here for product recommendations and more!... bit.ly/3kUr5Fg
Question for advice: In Florida I have two mature Ligustrums. Something is eating and killing all new growth. I don't know if they are white flies or beetles of some sort, all I know is that whatever is eating the new foliage they are nocturnal because I can never seen them. I have tried Neem oil, and Malathion and even a combination of them and if I don't spay them every 7-10 days the new leaves are gone and all new life is stunted. It is so frustrated, any idea what type of insect I am fighting and how to kill them once and for all, if possible?
Unfortunately, we are unable to give an ID based on that information, as it could be any type of insect. We would recommend reaching out to your local extension office for an ID then reach back out to us with the ID and we can help you further.
Extension Agents are experts in identifying local weeds and insects in each region, and are an invaluable resource in the community. You can find your local office here: nifa.usda.gov/land-grant-colleges-and-universities-partner-website-directory
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause you.
Your root dressing technique is flawed here. You have to apply it to the drip line according to the canopy. The roots at the trunk do not take up anything.
That's not what the directions say
@@easterlake directions are often wrong. Ask literally any arborist