this is going to be so important for me this year! thank you, my late grammas house along with the garden will be getting sold this year probably earlier in the season than i would like and im going to be going in the spring to try and propagate anything i can, i know she had a rose though and ive been worried about hardwood cutting. so maybe ill take as many as i can with the cut back and leave the new owners a nice refreshed plant
Firstly, I LOVE spotty dotty too, so your commentary on them was super interesting. Secondly, thanks for the encouragement about cuttings. I’ve been snipping and sticking but wasn’t sure if I was wasting my time or not. This gives me hope 🤞🏻
Thanks for sharing! Our ground is frozen here and I'm planning to take hardwood cuttings soon from my hydrangeas, some roses, etc. I was going to pot the cuttings up and leave the pots outside in the elements. Fingers crossed! 🤞🏼
I asked this question about the possibility to root the spring prunings in another channel last week, got no answer, but you answered it here - so I got my answer anyway😁 I must hug you for reading my mind🤗 I plan to do this with my fruit trees and roses - whatever survives I will be happy. My concern was about the fact that a tree is still in dormancy and there are no juices flowing to start a rooting process. But if you say roses can do this than definitely many fruit trees are capable of it as well!
This was sitting on the top of my phone for a few days to remind me to watch it! And I did and I am always so thankful for your information!! Thank you
I'm in zone 9B, I took some hardwood cuttings after your video on it.Instead of in the ground I put some in an outdoor raised bed and some in 3 in pots that were also left outdoors in a protected location. Nearly everything has rooted and leaves are coming out. This was incredibly easy and now you are tempting me to try more with my pruning castoffs.
I tried this a couple of months ago with a single cutting I took from a wonderful climbing rose bush. I didn't think it would grow, but here in the temperate English Midlands it's already beginning to sprout.
Here in Australia with mild winters, several frosts in my case, we just wait til early spring and everything goes pretty well. I have a trouble of summer being too hot to propogate
Great advice as always. I have bags of Jacques Cartier, Reine des Violettes and Ferdinand Pichard to play about with as am leading a team in renovating our local War Memorial Garden, lots of new but 'Old' roses have been added. Pruning in full swing in Fife, Scotland although most of my climbers and ramblers were done much earlier - well before the bud break, thus avoiding knocking fresh new shoots off when re-arranging stems etc. Noticed that Malvern Hills has attracted gall at the base - this is the 2nd one I've failed with (1st was some 30 miles away), find it not to be robust at all - great shame, prefer 'Open Arms'. Another climber here (unnamed) had galls on the stems, very old with some stems 3" across - swelling and splitting - have cut most to ground where damage showed. Plenty of other climbers here fine such as Handel, Ghislaine, Shropshire Lad etc. Any thoughts on galls Jason? and what to do about them?
My usual assumption for any gall at the base of a rose is crown gall (agrobacterium) - it's less common that it would infect stems higher up, but the likelihood is increased if the bacteria is present in your garden. Of course, I can't be sure just from what you've said, and it may be worth getting a real diagnosis, as agrobacterium is difficult to eradicate and usually means removal of roses
Much appreciated, thanks for the advice, there is certainly crown gall on the older roses of one variety (unknown and possibly 20 years old) that have been subject to very poor maintenance over the years, a 2nd variety neighbouring shows no such problem despite being of same age. The rose I mentioned from today has swellings on the stems that crack and blister the stems and kill the stems - this had advanced rapidly over the last years - I have removed and burned most of the rose and disinfected the pruning gear. Many thanks Jason@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Where should you locate an outdoor rooting bed? What amount of sun exposure should it have? Any special soul requirements? Would a USDA zone 4-5 have enough time remaining to develop roots after taking early spring hardwood cuttings? I prune around May 1st.
You can make a lot of different areas work, but ideally a little bit of high deciduous shade so that when the temps start rising in spring, the bed stays in a good temperature range and the cuttings don't dry out. The soil should be free draining, so you'll have to splash with water now and again to keep the area moist.
When I first started collecting, it was as a hobbyist so I was all over the map. Not a bad thing, but as I began to make it a business, I started looking to fill in the assortment: different classes, sizes, colors, hardiness zones. There's some minor tension between growing what I think customers will want vs. varieties that are rare or historical, so I try to do a little bit of both.
don we need to "cure" the top of the cuttings? too much rain water or the bug that like to eat the core? last year I almost lose my oldest rose cos of this bug , but was late summer.
I've seen some growers (esp. of grape cuttings) disinfect and seal with wax, but for the amateur propagator it seems a little over the top. We're hoping for something like a 50% success rate, and (depending on the variety) I usually get that without any additional prep. Cane boring insects are less common in the cooler months when we're attempting this, and the ones that damaged your roses are almost certainly a species of cane borer that doesn't enter through cut ends.
hi Jason, I took early winter cuttings and put them into an unheated greenhouse, however, we had such a mild winter in England that all of those cuttings now have grown 2-3 inch long leaves and they all have ZERO roots so far. So i'm not sure what to do with them? Keep them in greenhouse or put them outside to slow down the growth? Presume it should take them a few more months to root?
I took some red twig dogwood cuttings this past December. I did not have any rooting hormone at the time. As of yet, they aren't doing anything. I'm in Maryland, Zone 7. Should I pull the cuttings out and put some rooting hormone on them which I have now or just leave them go and see if anything happens. I have them in a container in a cheap plastic outdoor greenhouse. Thanks
I'd probably leave them be. Dogwoods are relatively easy to root, and don't generally need a lot of convincing. You should see more action once the soil warms a bit
Hello...my question is what length of time can you leave rose cuttings or other cuttings this time of year in water til you can place them in ground. I do realize as soon as you cut would be best. Also, at what growth height would you place into permanent spot in ground. Thank you for educating!
Everything goes slower when it's hardwood. I can't say I've ever tried intentionally, but I suspect a week would be fine, so long as you don't see the stems drying out.
Hi, I’m in zone 7b, NJ. One of my roses developed canker, which girdled the stem, so I went out and pruned it below the canker, even though it’s still too early to prune here. A nearby shrub also had a canker started, so I pruned that, too, but on that plant, the canker had not yet girdled the stem, so I took the cut stem and cut above the canker. The inside looked ok, so I decided to try to propagate, but I’m afraid the plant will be diseased (if it even develops roots). Should I be keeping this one away from my other props? Should I just throw it away?
There's quite a range of organisms that can cause canker on roses. I suspect these fungal organisms are widely present in the garden, but only get the upper hand after the plant has been weakened by conditions or injured (pests, cold, mechanical injury). Once the fungus has more or less "run its course" and it stops breaking down tissue, the gardener can decide whether to let that stem be (of the canker is quite minor, and doesn't encircle more than half the stem) or prune below. If you're uncomfortable propagating from the remaining stem from above a canker section, I won't try to convince you otherwise, but it's not necessarily "infected" either - basically, that's what the margins of a canker are: the place where the plant is fighting off the infection. Note that this is not the same as gall - which can be caused by agrobacterium and in which case infected plants should be removed.
All advice has to be adapted to your own conditions and zone 3 is pretty cold. I wouldn't rule out that some very hardy shrubs could be propagated from spring trimmings into hardwood cutting beds, but the timing would be quite different (frozen ground right now, I'd assume!) I've heard from hobbyists in those regions sticking the cuttings into a more protected place like containers in a cool garage or outbuilding.
With active-season cuttings it can be as little as a couple of months (albeit on pretty underdeveloped plants). For dormant cuttings it's probably no less than 6 months
this is going to be so important for me this year! thank you, my late grammas house along with the garden will be getting sold this year probably earlier in the season than i would like and im going to be going in the spring to try and propagate anything i can, i know she had a rose though and ive been worried about hardwood cutting. so maybe ill take as many as i can with the cut back and leave the new owners a nice refreshed plant
Thank you for always presenting clear, concise and factual information that gardeners can actually use. It's so very refreshing.
Firstly, I LOVE spotty dotty too, so your commentary on them was super interesting.
Secondly, thanks for the encouragement about cuttings. I’ve been snipping and sticking but wasn’t sure if I was wasting my time or not. This gives me hope 🤞🏻
Thanks for sharing! Our ground is frozen here and I'm planning to take hardwood cuttings soon from my hydrangeas, some roses, etc. I was going to pot the cuttings up and leave the pots outside in the elements. Fingers crossed! 🤞🏼
I asked this question about the possibility to root the spring prunings in another channel last week, got no answer, but you answered it here - so I got my answer anyway😁 I must hug you for reading my mind🤗
I plan to do this with my fruit trees and roses - whatever survives I will be happy.
My concern was about the fact that a tree is still in dormancy and there are no juices flowing to start a rooting process. But if you say roses can do this than definitely many fruit trees are capable of it as well!
This was sitting on the top of my phone for a few days to remind me to watch it! And I did and I am always so thankful for your information!! Thank you
I thought I'd get to this in the fall, but hopefully tomorrow. You're my garden calendar reminder! 😂
Always so instructive, Jason. Thank you very much. 🌹🥀⚘️
I'm in zone 9B, I took some hardwood cuttings after your video on it.Instead of in the ground I put some in an outdoor raised bed and some in 3 in pots that were also left outdoors in a protected location. Nearly everything has rooted and leaves are coming out. This was incredibly easy and now you are tempting me to try more with my pruning castoffs.
Nicely done!
Thank you very much for sharing. I'm going to try it with some of my nice roses 🌹
I tried this a couple of months ago with a single cutting I took from a wonderful climbing rose bush. I didn't think it would grow, but here in the temperate English Midlands it's already beginning to sprout.
Thank you. This is just what I need - one of my roses looks like it’s being discontinued
Here in Australia with mild winters, several frosts in my case, we just wait til early spring and everything goes pretty well. I have a trouble of summer being too hot to propogate
Wonderful information, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jason !!! ❄️🫠💚🙃
I can see building some cutting beds in my future. Great video Jason!
I have always pruned my roses in autumn.
good advice cheers jason
Great advice as always. I have bags of Jacques Cartier, Reine des Violettes and Ferdinand Pichard to play about with as am leading a team in renovating our local War Memorial Garden, lots of new but 'Old' roses have been added. Pruning in full swing in Fife, Scotland although most of my climbers and ramblers were done much earlier - well before the bud break, thus avoiding knocking fresh new shoots off when re-arranging stems etc.
Noticed that Malvern Hills has attracted gall at the base - this is the 2nd one I've failed with (1st was some 30 miles away), find it not to be robust at all - great shame, prefer 'Open Arms'. Another climber here (unnamed) had galls on the stems, very old with some stems 3" across - swelling and splitting - have cut most to ground where damage showed. Plenty of other climbers here fine such as Handel, Ghislaine, Shropshire Lad etc.
Any thoughts on galls Jason? and what to do about them?
My usual assumption for any gall at the base of a rose is crown gall (agrobacterium) - it's less common that it would infect stems higher up, but the likelihood is increased if the bacteria is present in your garden. Of course, I can't be sure just from what you've said, and it may be worth getting a real diagnosis, as agrobacterium is difficult to eradicate and usually means removal of roses
Much appreciated, thanks for the advice, there is certainly crown gall on the older roses of one variety (unknown and possibly 20 years old) that have been subject to very poor maintenance over the years, a 2nd variety neighbouring shows no such problem despite being of same age. The rose I mentioned from today has swellings on the stems that crack and blister the stems and kill the stems - this had advanced rapidly over the last years - I have removed and burned most of the rose and disinfected the pruning gear. Many thanks Jason@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Thank you.
Thank you!
I’m going to be pruning my roses next week
fantastic as always, thank you
Thank you. Excellent video. Do you know whether this can be done successfully any rose cultivar?
Some are easier to root form cuttings than others
Where should you locate an outdoor rooting bed? What amount of sun exposure should it have? Any special soul requirements? Would a USDA zone 4-5 have enough time remaining to develop roots after taking early spring hardwood cuttings? I prune around May 1st.
You can make a lot of different areas work, but ideally a little bit of high deciduous shade so that when the temps start rising in spring, the bed stays in a good temperature range and the cuttings don't dry out. The soil should be free draining, so you'll have to splash with water now and again to keep the area moist.
Hi. James.
On the very cold days did you cover that cuttings you did last year?
No, I left them as is. There were black stem on one tender variety but the rest seem to be coming through okay
I am really sorry mess up your name Jason.
Thks for the information! Can you discuss how you went about collecting your stock roses. How did you prioritize which ones to start with?
When I first started collecting, it was as a hobbyist so I was all over the map. Not a bad thing, but as I began to make it a business, I started looking to fill in the assortment: different classes, sizes, colors, hardiness zones. There's some minor tension between growing what I think customers will want vs. varieties that are rare or historical, so I try to do a little bit of both.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thks! Appreciate the information! Will be acquiring some roses this spring.
don we need to "cure" the top of the cuttings? too much rain water or the bug that like to eat the core? last year I almost lose my oldest rose cos of this bug , but was late summer.
I've seen some growers (esp. of grape cuttings) disinfect and seal with wax, but for the amateur propagator it seems a little over the top. We're hoping for something like a 50% success rate, and (depending on the variety) I usually get that without any additional prep. Cane boring insects are less common in the cooler months when we're attempting this, and the ones that damaged your roses are almost certainly a species of cane borer that doesn't enter through cut ends.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thanks
hi Jason, I took early winter cuttings and put them into an unheated greenhouse, however, we had such a mild winter in England that all of those cuttings now have grown 2-3 inch long leaves and they all have ZERO roots so far. So i'm not sure what to do with them? Keep them in greenhouse or put them outside to slow down the growth? Presume it should take them a few more months to root?
Yes, pretty much as cool and slow as you can make it to give them a chance at rooting.
❤❤❤
I took some red twig dogwood cuttings this past December. I did not have any rooting hormone at the time. As of yet, they aren't doing anything. I'm in Maryland, Zone 7. Should I pull the cuttings out and put some rooting hormone on them which I have now or just leave them go and see if anything happens. I have them in a container in a cheap plastic outdoor greenhouse.
Thanks
I'd probably leave them be. Dogwoods are relatively easy to root, and don't generally need a lot of convincing. You should see more action once the soil warms a bit
Hello...my question is what length of time can you leave rose cuttings or other cuttings this time of year in water til you can place them in ground. I do realize as soon as you cut would be best. Also, at what growth height would you place into permanent spot in ground. Thank you for educating!
Everything goes slower when it's hardwood. I can't say I've ever tried intentionally, but I suspect a week would be fine, so long as you don't see the stems drying out.
Hi, I’m in zone 7b, NJ. One of my roses developed canker, which girdled the stem, so I went out and pruned it below the canker, even though it’s still too early to prune here. A nearby shrub also had a canker started, so I pruned that, too, but on that plant, the canker had not yet girdled the stem, so I took the cut stem and cut above the canker. The inside looked ok, so I decided to try to propagate, but I’m afraid the plant will be diseased (if it even develops roots). Should I be keeping this one away from my other props? Should I just throw it away?
There's quite a range of organisms that can cause canker on roses. I suspect these fungal organisms are widely present in the garden, but only get the upper hand after the plant has been weakened by conditions or injured (pests, cold, mechanical injury). Once the fungus has more or less "run its course" and it stops breaking down tissue, the gardener can decide whether to let that stem be (of the canker is quite minor, and doesn't encircle more than half the stem) or prune below. If you're uncomfortable propagating from the remaining stem from above a canker section, I won't try to convince you otherwise, but it's not necessarily "infected" either - basically, that's what the margins of a canker are: the place where the plant is fighting off the infection. Note that this is not the same as gall - which can be caused by agrobacterium and in which case infected plants should be removed.
Would the same advice work in zone 3?
All advice has to be adapted to your own conditions and zone 3 is pretty cold. I wouldn't rule out that some very hardy shrubs could be propagated from spring trimmings into hardwood cutting beds, but the timing would be quite different (frozen ground right now, I'd assume!) I've heard from hobbyists in those regions sticking the cuttings into a more protected place like containers in a cool garage or outbuilding.
Can you use the cuttings in pots?
You bet.
Approximately how long does it take from cutting a rose to propagate to maturity, starting to bloom? ❄️🫠💚🙃
With active-season cuttings it can be as little as a couple of months (albeit on pretty underdeveloped plants). For dormant cuttings it's probably no less than 6 months
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you that’s wonderful! ❄️🫠💚🙃