Wow - those are amazing results! This video couldn't have come at a better time. Caradonna was on my wish list for a while & I finally added it to the garden a couple of months ago...and now I want more! I was thinking the exact same thing - boy...those nodes are far apart & that's going to make for a very tall, skinny seedling. I see some Caradonna propagating in my future this week - thanks so much Jason!
Thanks. Since I don't have indoor propogation space, I'll try this method with salvia outside and see how it goes. PS Thanks for the tour last week; it was great to see the whole setup in person. I got the roses and perennials I picked up into the garden this week and wish I'd grabbed a few more; your selection is great!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm not the highest success rate but it got hot on my cuttings. You also plant them sideways for those kinda vines which I'm sure you know. I gotta try hardwood rose cuttings Im like 0-150 on the semi hardwood lol
Hi , I've never rooted full trays of Salvia. I've done many by layering all the sprawling branches by injuring a node and pinning it to the ground or buring a 2.5 or 3" pot in the soil. My best 72 and 50 trays this spring were from very short lavender cuttings. Now I am doing some Agastache, which I assume will be easy.
Hi Jason.. as usual it's another great informative video thank you..is it possible to layer a climbing rose to get a new rose bush?many thanks and thank you again for your videos
Great idea. I'm going to be taking some more limelight hydrangea cuttings and I usually go 2 or 3 nodes per cutting, but now I thinking I might try singles and get 2-3x the plants!
I have two things about this. 1/. On the single node cuttings, could you leave an inch or so of stem below the node to help anchor it in the tray more better? 2/. On the double node cuttings, could you just bury it much deeper when you transplant to a larger pot to take up some of that long stem? On another note, I'm really looking forward to content from your new channel "Fraser Valley Emu Farm". Good luck with it.
I aso grow Caradonna and solve the long internode problem by fertilizing with Calcium Nitrate instead of other Nitrogen fertilizers. It makes the internodes a lot shorter.
Since I can see you are growing your salvia cuttings here in trays, I have to ask: What do you do when they are not rooting at the same time? Would you still keep them under a cover when most of them have already rooted and wait until all have rooted until you start potting them?
It's always a tough call - if they're close at all in root development, you can just split the difference - those that are ahead can spend a little extra time under humidity, and those that are behind may have to "graduate" or harden off a little early. Unfortunately if they're quite different (heavy rooting and new shoots vs. none at all) you have to make a call - and I'd suggest you do so in favor of the ones that succeeded, because they're more a sure thing. If you have time and care to make an additional effort, you can transfer the slower undeveloped cuttings into a new tray and give them a second try - but my final thought on it: if they've been in for 3-4 weeks and are showing no serious rooting, it's possible that batch isn't worth the effort of a second try.
I am nowhere near you ( Charleston SC) might as well call us zone triple H. Hot, Humid Hello fall. Anyhow... Your videos are always so useful despite the zones we live in. I have a Salvia Coccinea (sp) that is a small shrub at this point in a 10/12 inch pot! I just got it this year from a native plant grower. It will not stop blooming or growing even in this heat and humidity. Seeds are plentiful. So why propagate this wonderful Scarlet sage by cuttings even though it may take over the south like Kudzu? I hate to use an over used line "because I can" so I will say this "Because of your video!!" I won't go crazy because there is alot to cut if it ever stops blooming although I do dead head twice as many flower stalks are ready to pop out. I must try your technique with at least one or 2 pieces. Thanks for all your help .
Interesting. It makes me think of the Camilla Senense or tea plant. Top cuttings are commonly taken without a node in the semi-wood stage and it makes me wonder if you could do the same. I realize that your cuttings only rooted from the nodes, but I wonder if they would respond like a top cutting? Seems like quite a verile plant species. Have you ever done top cuttings of roses? I don't remember seeing that in a video.
In roses I do find that the softness of the tip cuttings ends up increasing the risk (or speed) of rot/failure compared to firmer material lower on the stem. YMMV of course. I know some propagators love the tip cuttings, but for me it just means more management.
It follows the outdoor temps plus a few degrees. So here it's most often high twenties C, or in the range of 80F with a few swings higher. For that reason I do most of my initial rooting in a basement room with less stressful and more stable temperatures.
Wow - those are amazing results! This video couldn't have come at a better time. Caradonna was on my wish list for a while & I finally added it to the garden a couple of months ago...and now I want more! I was thinking the exact same thing - boy...those nodes are far apart & that's going to make for a very tall, skinny seedling. I see some Caradonna propagating in my future this week - thanks so much Jason!
You are so informative with your videos!
I need to do this!
Can’t wait to get home from CAlif. to try this method! Thanks much!!
Amazing video! Thank you for finding the time to educate and share your experience with your audience- much appreciated!
Thanks Jason, excellent video I’m going to give it a try myself.
Wow, I didn't expect such good results. I never considered single node propagating. I'll have to try it.
Thanks. Since I don't have indoor propogation space, I'll try this method with salvia outside and see how it goes. PS Thanks for the tour last week; it was great to see the whole setup in person. I got the roses and perennials I picked up into the garden this week and wish I'd grabbed a few more; your selection is great!
always great info, thank you for keeping us in your information loop.
Nice test\demo. Thanks for sharing. I always appreciate your videos.
Your videos are excellent. Thanks for all you do!
I just did that to my purple and red salvia and hybrid tea roses …so far so good
Ive taken those single node cuttings from clematis and split the stem giving me two single leaf bud cuttings.
Even better!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm not the highest success rate but it got hot on my cuttings. You also plant them sideways for those kinda vines which I'm sure you know. I gotta try hardwood rose cuttings Im like 0-150 on the semi hardwood lol
Nice demonstration.
Cool I may try it on some of my plants I like trying different things I have been pretty successful with the African violet leaves😊
I want to try this! Thank you so much for sharing :)
I'm hoping for a peak rose summer tour 24 from Jason.
Thank you❤
Interesting, I’ll have to try that!
Very interesting. Thanks.
Very nice, thanks for sharing. Im gonna try that also.
Thank you!
Hi , I've never rooted full trays of Salvia. I've done many by layering all the sprawling branches by injuring a node and pinning it to the ground or buring a 2.5 or 3" pot in the soil. My best 72 and 50 trays this spring were from very short lavender cuttings. Now I am doing some Agastache, which I assume will be easy.
Thanks. And I'd bet you're right about the agastache - they've always been fast and easy for me.
Hi Jason.. as usual it's another great informative video thank you..is it possible to layer a climbing rose to get a new rose bush?many thanks and thank you again for your videos
Possible yes, but I do find cutting methods faster and more reliable than layering
Interesting experiment, I think i might try this with my Penstemon, seems like a more efficient use of cutting material if it works
Good job.
Just genius! I’m going to try it on oak leaf hydrangeas since their so long between nodes.
Great idea. I'm going to be taking some more limelight hydrangea cuttings and I usually go 2 or 3 nodes per cutting, but now I thinking I might try singles and get 2-3x the plants!
I do singles on those too and don’t even push the node in the dirt since they will root without a node up and down the stem.
really interesting. Thanks
I have two things about this.
1/. On the single node cuttings, could you leave an inch or so of stem below the node to help anchor it in the tray more better?
2/. On the double node cuttings, could you just bury it much deeper when you transplant to a larger pot to take up some of that long stem?
On another note, I'm really looking forward to content from your new channel "Fraser Valley Emu Farm". Good luck with it.
good stuff, will give it a go on my hot lips!
Can you possibly try on fig tree cuttings ?
I could give it a try - my best guess is that it should work fine, as figs are some of the easiest to root.
مسيرة موفقة🩷🩷🩷🩷🩷🩷🩷🩷🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾🍹🍹🍹🍹🍹🌴🌴🌳🌳🪴🪴🪴🪺🪺🌵🌵🪻🪻🪻
I aso grow Caradonna and solve the long internode problem by fertilizing with Calcium Nitrate instead of other Nitrogen fertilizers. It makes the internodes a lot shorter.
Thanks Dan
Since I can see you are growing your salvia cuttings here in trays, I have to ask: What do you do when they are not rooting at the same time? Would you still keep them under a cover when most of them have already rooted and wait until all have rooted until you start potting them?
It's always a tough call - if they're close at all in root development, you can just split the difference - those that are ahead can spend a little extra time under humidity, and those that are behind may have to "graduate" or harden off a little early. Unfortunately if they're quite different (heavy rooting and new shoots vs. none at all) you have to make a call - and I'd suggest you do so in favor of the ones that succeeded, because they're more a sure thing. If you have time and care to make an additional effort, you can transfer the slower undeveloped cuttings into a new tray and give them a second try - but my final thought on it: if they've been in for 3-4 weeks and are showing no serious rooting, it's possible that batch isn't worth the effort of a second try.
I am nowhere near you ( Charleston SC) might as well call us zone triple H. Hot, Humid Hello fall.
Anyhow... Your videos are always so useful despite the zones we live in. I have a Salvia Coccinea (sp) that is a small shrub at this point in a 10/12 inch pot! I just got it this year from a native plant grower. It will not stop blooming or growing even in this heat and humidity. Seeds are plentiful. So why propagate this wonderful Scarlet sage by cuttings even though it may take over the south like Kudzu? I hate to use an over used line "because I can" so I will say this "Because of your video!!" I won't go crazy because there is alot to cut if it ever stops blooming although I do dead head twice as many flower stalks are ready to pop out. I must try your technique with at least one or 2 pieces. Thanks for all your help .
Interesting. It makes me think of the Camilla Senense or tea plant. Top cuttings are commonly taken without a node in the semi-wood stage and it makes me wonder if you could do the same. I realize that your cuttings only rooted from the nodes, but I wonder if they would respond like a top cutting? Seems like quite a verile plant species.
Have you ever done top cuttings of roses? I don't remember seeing that in a video.
In roses I do find that the softness of the tip cuttings ends up increasing the risk (or speed) of rot/failure compared to firmer material lower on the stem. YMMV of course. I know some propagators love the tip cuttings, but for me it just means more management.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
I kind of figured the soft tops might be a challenge.
Makes sense.🤙
What is the ambient temperature of your greenhouse in June?
It follows the outdoor temps plus a few degrees. So here it's most often high twenties C, or in the range of 80F with a few swings higher. For that reason I do most of my initial rooting in a basement room with less stressful and more stable temperatures.