That's where he amazes me. He isn't afraid to tear into anything! I wish I had his abilities with this sort of thing. Sending things to John Deere is very costly. They charged me $1200 to replace the pto seal on a 6300. Just pull it out and slide a new o-ring on it and put it back. Great video Wes!
Would have to agree, shaft seems a bit light duty for that sized tractor. To be honest I have never had the shaft out of my 8000 series Deeres. On the 40/50/60 series we had them out often, never had an issues. Used to run a lot of pto powered equipment in those days.. We dont do hay anymore, all row crops now.
RG Hass seems to have the fix. For your tractor aka replacing the unit you removed from the 8120 and installing a 1000 only PTO Which according to Hass bolts right in. One other suggestion as a retired locomotive engineer/ truck driver Always check all your fluids before you crank it up only takes a couple of minutes more and I can't tell you how many times I have had to add oil somewhere on a locomotive or truck before going to work. Got called for a yard switcher with an ALCO RS-3 v-12 244 engine 1600 hand found zero oil on the dipstick Had to wait for the fuel truck to arrive to refill the crankcase it took 52 gallons of oil to the full mark only holds 85 gallons! Ok I type too much I enjoy your videos keep em coming please
Wes I have a JD 8220 and run a tub grinder with a heavy drive shaft. I have had the same problem you have. The trouble is when you have the 540/1000 PTO option you have the short rear stub shafts. I went to a salvage yard and bought the entire Standard 1000 only PTO, rear housing complete. This was out of a JD 8200. It will just bolt on right where you took your JD 8120 apart. The shaft then is long to where it replaces the long shaft you pulled out first. You only have one single shaft that slides into the PTO clutch drive on the front and sticks out the back housing. All one single piece. I have put several thousand hours on the tractor since and had zero issue with the PTO now. I kept the original 540/1000 PTO. I found I never sued the 540 much on this tractor anyway. I will email you a copy of the part break down.
You could silver solder the old unit together so it is one lonely part and eliminate all of that movement all together. Silver soldering would require a lot less heat to join them together and can be pulled back apart by simply reheating the parts and pulling them apart if it didn't work out for some reason. I don't know how that unit is assembled though and I would only do that if you can solder them together before installing them because the seals will not be able to withstand the heat. Good luck.
Great video. You run a Good Operation. Hagd and lucky kids you have. Grab the bearing and put in underwater in a bucket. You will feel any imperfections when you spin it. Old Mechanic taught me that Trick. It works
Wes, love getting to see the inside of the 8120. It seems that the keyboard commandos believe that you're pushing the old girl too hard. I think not, those are built to run at max horsepower. I know before you said the the larger models up to the 8520 I believe have the same rear end so the parts should all be the same. IH's old dual pto setup was the same way and once you got over a certain HP, models like the 1206, 1456, 1566, and 1586 were 1000 pto only, but many can be found with the dual speed put in later on. I know the krone is takes a lot to run, but that setup should hold up to the abuse.
we had a JD 8100 on our spud harvester back in the day, man that thing could pull. I think we were digging 12 rows with it at the time. I was running a new 7810 at the time, all that that tractor done was tow trucks in and out of the fields.
As you say the short axel gets much force on it as you make a turn, longer should be better, why put they not a greasenipple on it, Wes you are a good tractor mechanic 👌 👍 ✌ 😊
Your not the only one that doesn't power wash. When we tear in to stuff it's covered with shit. This is mostly because we forget to was it off. But we always make sure the new part stay clean when going into the tractor.
yea looks like it got pretty hot. maybe from all the endplay. I prolly would've done the same.[re used that shaft]. I like the tractor repair vids. people were bitching about repair vids long ago.But repairing your equipment is part of farming. I learned a lot from those vids WES THANK YOU...
Longer PTO shaft would result in far greater torsion thus accelerating fatigue. it's an output shaft for high torque and high RPM, it should be small. A chunky UJ may work well.
Hi Wes, when I saw the title of this video, first thing I thought the Krone baler is too much for the back end of the 8120!!! It's a pity the way the PTO shaft is designed, ever the old Ford TW's had a better design. I'm not familiar with those JD's, but is it possible to get a one piece shaft from a bigger model maybe, that doesn't have the option to swap out the shafts?!
I think you are probably right that using a partly worn spline shaft with the new socket probably accelerated the wear. The other thing I wonder about is the rear seal. Has it worn enough that it started letting dirt into the joint between the spline and socket?
Make sure you have plenty of grease in splines of PTO where it slides in and out. If that is dry and under a load it will put many tons of pressure on that part of tractor.
You should get one of those bendy tripods from Amazon, they aren't very expensive and I notice that sometimes you have trouble setting up your camera. I think it would be a good investment
would a pto unit from a larger 20 series interchange to get rid of the interchangeable pto shafts. most tractors over 200 hp only have the 1 3/4 inch shafts, might be stronger, just a thought..
Im surprised you expose the internals without pressure washing the external parts to remove the dirt so it doesn't go flying into places its not supposed to be in.
that's one thing I still don't like on my deere tractors that damn flip over 540 /1000 pto shaft can really raise hell with drive lines,always liked the dual shafts on older ih tractors no wobble
That was one thing IH did right, dual PTO all the time. You only had two major problems with them, either you snapped off the shaft outside the housing or you wore out the clutch pack.
I believe the "slop" as you called it is not from side to side motion ;but from the clearance between the splines on the shaft and mating socket, side to side is why he is replacing both items. If I were Wes, I would check the bore with a micrometer where the internal smooth surface rides inside the PTO housing to see if it is possibly worn too,
Gene Sederlin Form what I could see in the video, Before he took the unit off the tractor, the shaft had a wiggle up or side to side, when he showed the new pieces slipped together, they had NO side to side motion but had a bit of play between the meshing of the splines on both pieces which HAS to be because of heat being generated while in use if not there would be more problems created
Got good eyes. I sure could hear the splines hitting each other. Guess until the tractor warms up the splines will beat together and slowly over time hammer on the carrier bearing in the tractors pto casting. Sounds like a design flaw.
Looks like you could machine out that casting and add a ball bearing on the outside that would provide additional support for that shaft. Use a sealed bearing. Sound possible?
You're 100% right with that comment I got flashed twice when I was younger and I still remember like it was yesterday, the feeling is like somebody has put rock salt in your eyes and is rubbing it around constantly!
+heyhey1956. I've never burned my eyes while welding before, but I've seen people suffering do to the mistake of not wearing proper equipment. It sounds and looks PAINFUL, I feel sorry for you sir. :)
Jace Schlechter I was working on a production line at GMH mig welding when I got the 2 flashes that buggered up my eyes, even when Wes is welding in his Y/T videos I automatically look away every time!
+heyhey1956. lol, I don't blame you man. The most painful and timely experiences seem to last a lifetime, just like reflexes or natural instinct. How long did it take you to recover? I knew a guy who suffered for weeks, I felt so bad for the guy because he tryed to just deal with the pain rather than getting medical attention. :)
Jace Schlechter I went to the doctor both times, the first time I actually thought I was going blind I never knew a welding flash could do so much harm, both times the Dr gave me some sought of pain killer but it still took weeks before the actual soreness left my eyes, you can now understand why in the movies like that one 'True Lies' when the nuclear flash happens they say look away!
Could we be seeing the starting signs of wear and tare brought on by the behemoth krone baler? sure the wear is probablg from having a used shaft in a new housing but like you said there is no reason for that little wear to hear up those bearings that bad and quick. maybe its not from running the baler but from how hard it is to get it to start the baler up.
Big difference between an IH1086 and a JD8120 though. Plus the PTO's between the 2 are of completely different design as well. As Wes stated, he ran the shaft that was already used in a worn piece. In short time, both pieces WILL be worn out. Hence why he now has 2 brand new pieces going back in the 8120.
You got that right, feels like someone has put HOT sand in your eyes, the eyeballs are actually blistered which causes the gritty sensation and creates the watering effect that irritates even more so. .5 % Pontocaineis the only relief but one has to be careful to not get any other foreign object in the eye(s) as the medication deadens the sensation of any thing being in the eye(s) and then followed up by Opthomolic ointment.
hot sand + salt. got arc eye while building a mobile home trailer frame. i was welding nonstop for about 18 hours and the arc flashed off of the shirt i was wearing, and the wall behind me. due to this i went completely blind for 4 days. if you do decide to watch an arc... here is a little advice... keep a bucket of cold water and a wet rag beside your bed. you're going to need it later. also having somebody there that can see to help you out would not necessarily be a bad thing.
good one for you machale ireland as in fusion baler wont stand over machine if its pulled by jd they say the angel is nt right for shaft nd it is likewise wit jd they wont stand over tractor if pullin machale so i donno seems it 2 makes of balers nw blowin the shaft plate we blew a shaft plate in new tractor jd on a new fusion3 this year......
Also you could be causing the wear because of drive shaft angles when you rotate a shaft with a u joint in it a t an angle the shaft behind the u joint speeds up and slows down twice every rotation this can can cause terrible wear with out you feeling it you can cut back on the wear by raising or lowering your hitch height a little bit in the wrong direction bad mojo
with that much HP you would think that shaft would have a lot more spline on it. looks as just a inch or lil more and thats not enough to keep it from wanting to wallow out when it gets a side load on it.
hopefully it's not a bigger problem their already is.. I have the same light you were using. there way better than a flood light those ones will take a fall and keep working
Wouldn't gripe too loud if it is a bearing. It's not like you don't run the dog crap out of that tractor pulling the baler. Tremendous amount of stress on the pto. Just part of doing pto work. Could also be cheap china bearings.....
But if John Deere made the shafts the way you suggested and took the leverage out of the drive line from the implement then they would't get to sell you a new one every two years and that would cut into their profits.
According to tractordata.com. The 4960 produced 210 P.T.O. Horsepower and 176 Drawbar Horse at Nebraska, while the 8120 was 200 P.T.O and 148 Drawbar at Nebraska.
Why you dont take off the 3 point hitch from your tractor.You have easyer acces to the back side in case of repairs en better vieuw to you pickup of the baler
Agree. Also the finger controller for raise and lower, make sure is in full up position and locking tag to hold it there so it doesn't get accidentally lowered. I've had it happen to me were wasn't locked and accidentally lower when running a grain cart.. Luckly didn't tear pto shaft of of It.
could be the extra force the crown baler puts on the power take off forcing those gears apart from each other and doing that load the bearings up harder then normal wearing them out , have to say the bearings look beafy enough to take a load like that i could be misstaken maibe using a different thicker gear oil could cure that or plumbing in a gear oil cooler
I will offer my 2 cents. You have stepped up your demands on the tractor to the maximum it will handle. This maximum tends to be a small percentage of DUTY CYCLE it is rated for. You can increase the capacity of individual parts untill the next part upstream will fail. 200HP duty cycle may only be 60% of the run time, total. If you are using all of the hp ALL of the time, your wear will accelerate by almost double. By only replacing 1 of the 2 mating parts that failed, in my opinion, you have only put a band aid on the situation. 50% wear (splines) accelerated by a 60% duty cycle and only replacing HALF of the mating wear and running at MAXIMUM duty cycle all of the time? Frankly I am surprised you got the time you did before it failed again. Moment arm of load has surpassed what the parts were ever meant to handle. Just my opinion.
Be shure to get backlash spec and get it as close as you can only thing coming to my mind for exessive friction. don't run the ol girl to hard. but keep her running
I'd like to see the 4960 on the baler too though he could run the baler without the braking system on the axles he'd have to move the monitor over and that's not a five minute job to remount get wired along with the video monitor
Think I remember him saying when he bought the 4960 it was from Europe and originally had an air brake system but he subsequently removed it, the gift of hindsight ay! Its on a video somewhere!
+Geeves8612 I've only been watching his videos about two months probably seen near two hundred of them maybe I'll come around to that one yet thanks. but moving the monitor is the bigger job to use that tractor now he just has to be more careful to run less the brakes
Inside the tractors ass something looks to have gotten really hot as well. Look at of the video at about the 10:37 and you can seena shiny part that got hot at the top. This appears to be in the same area that the housing he removed got hot.
That's where he amazes me. He isn't afraid to tear into anything! I wish I had his abilities with this sort of thing. Sending things to John Deere is very costly. They charged me $1200 to replace the pto seal on a 6300. Just pull it out and slide a new o-ring on it and put it back. Great video Wes!
Would have to agree, shaft seems a bit light duty for that sized tractor. To be honest I have never had the shaft out of my 8000 series Deeres. On the 40/50/60 series we had them out often, never had an issues. Used to run a lot of pto powered equipment in those days.. We dont do hay anymore, all row crops now.
RG Hass seems to have the fix. For your tractor aka replacing the unit you removed from the 8120 and installing a 1000 only PTO
Which according to Hass bolts right in. One other suggestion as a retired locomotive engineer/ truck driver Always check all your fluids before you
crank it up only takes a couple of minutes more and I can't tell you how many times I have had to add oil somewhere on a locomotive
or truck before going to work. Got called for a yard switcher with an ALCO RS-3 v-12 244 engine 1600 hand found zero oil on the dipstick
Had to wait for the fuel truck to arrive to refill the crankcase it took 52 gallons of oil to the full mark only holds 85 gallons!
Ok I type too much I enjoy your videos keep em coming please
Wes I have a JD 8220 and run a tub grinder with a heavy drive shaft. I have had the same problem you have. The trouble is when you have the 540/1000 PTO option you have the short rear stub shafts. I went to a salvage yard and bought the entire Standard 1000 only PTO, rear housing complete. This was out of a JD 8200. It will just bolt on right where you took your JD 8120 apart. The shaft then is long to where it replaces the long shaft you pulled out first. You only have one single shaft that slides into the PTO clutch drive on the front and sticks out the back housing. All one single piece. I have put several thousand hours on the tractor since and had zero issue with the PTO now. I kept the original 540/1000 PTO. I found I never sued the 540 much on this tractor anyway. I will email you a copy of the part break down.
You could silver solder the old unit together so it is one lonely part and eliminate all of that movement all together. Silver soldering would require a lot less heat to join them together and can be pulled back apart by simply reheating the parts and pulling them apart if it didn't work out for some reason. I don't know how that unit is assembled though and I would only do that if you can solder them together before installing them because the seals will not be able to withstand the heat. Good luck.
Great video. You run a Good Operation. Hagd and lucky kids you have. Grab the bearing and put in underwater in a bucket. You will feel any imperfections when you spin it. Old Mechanic taught me that Trick. It works
Wes, love getting to see the inside of the 8120. It seems that the keyboard commandos believe that you're pushing the old girl too hard. I think not, those are built to run at max horsepower. I know before you said the the larger models up to the 8520 I believe have the same rear end so the parts should all be the same. IH's old dual pto setup was the same way and once you got over a certain HP, models like the 1206, 1456, 1566, and 1586 were 1000 pto only, but many can be found with the dual speed put in later on. I know the krone is takes a lot to run, but that setup should hold up to the abuse.
we had a JD 8100 on our spud harvester back in the day, man that thing could pull. I think we were digging 12 rows with it at the time. I was running a new 7810 at the time, all that that tractor done was tow trucks in and out of the fields.
As you say the short axel gets much force on it as you make a turn, longer should be better, why put they not a greasenipple on it, Wes you are a good tractor mechanic 👌 👍 ✌ 😊
Just checked out the old vid. The discolored part was like that the last time you pulled it out
Your not the only one that doesn't power wash. When we tear in to stuff it's covered with shit. This is mostly because we forget to was it off. But we always make sure the new part stay clean when going into the tractor.
keep up these repair videos.. very interesting!. I enjoy this channel very much!.. cheers from Canada!
If John Deere made it longer like you suggest they wouldnt be able to sell you a new one every two years.
Greatest birds and the bees lesson ever! 😂
I love the tractor repair vids. How many hours does the 8120 have now?
yea looks like it got pretty hot. maybe from all the endplay. I prolly would've done the same.[re used that shaft]. I like the tractor repair vids. people were bitching about repair vids long ago.But repairing your equipment is part of farming. I learned a lot from those vids WES THANK YOU...
It could have gotten hot when you were having trouble with your hydraulic hook ups. You could've been low on fluid and didn't catch it in time.
Longer PTO shaft would result in far greater torsion thus accelerating fatigue.
it's an output shaft for high torque and high RPM, it should be small.
A chunky UJ may work well.
Hi Wes, when I saw the title of this video, first thing I thought the Krone baler is too much for the back end of the 8120!!!
It's a pity the way the PTO shaft is designed, ever the old Ford TW's had a better design. I'm not familiar with those JD's, but is it possible to get a one piece shaft from a bigger model maybe, that doesn't have the option to swap out the shafts?!
I think you are probably right that using a partly worn spline shaft with the new socket probably accelerated the wear. The other thing I wonder about is the rear seal. Has it worn enough that it started letting dirt into the joint between the spline and socket?
Make sure you have plenty of grease in splines of PTO where it slides in and out. If that is dry and under a load it will put many tons of pressure on that part of tractor.
You should get one of those bendy tripods from Amazon, they aren't very expensive and I notice that sometimes you have trouble setting up your camera. I think it would be a good investment
would a pto unit from a larger 20 series interchange to get rid of the interchangeable pto shafts. most tractors over 200 hp only have the 1 3/4 inch shafts, might be stronger, just a thought..
you are a hell of a mechanic, but don't you power wash before you tear into it?? no disrespect meant.
I also clean everything as best as possible before teardown, Then clean while apart. It is not necessary though.
Im surprised you expose the internals without pressure washing the external parts to remove the dirt so it doesn't go flying into places its not supposed to be in.
that's one thing I still don't like on my deere tractors that damn flip over 540 /1000 pto shaft can really raise hell with drive lines,always liked the dual shafts on older ih tractors no wobble
That was one thing IH did right, dual PTO all the time. You only had two major problems with them, either you snapped off the shaft outside the housing or you wore out the clutch pack.
The new pieces are almost as sloppy as the pieces you are replacing.
I believe the "slop" as you called it is not from side to side motion ;but from the clearance between the splines on the shaft and mating socket, side to side is why he is replacing both items. If I were Wes, I would check the bore with a micrometer where the internal smooth surface rides inside the PTO housing to see if it is possibly worn too,
+Nortekj it's one and the same.
Gene Sederlin Form what I could see in the video, Before he took the unit off the tractor, the shaft had a wiggle up or side to side, when he showed the new pieces slipped together, they had NO side to side motion but had a bit of play between the meshing of the splines on both pieces which HAS to be because of heat being generated while in use if not there would be more problems created
Got good eyes. I sure could hear the splines hitting each other. Guess until the tractor warms up the splines will beat together and slowly over time hammer on the carrier bearing in the tractors pto casting. Sounds like a design flaw.
Looks like you could machine out that casting and add a ball bearing on the outside that would provide additional support for that shaft. Use a sealed bearing. Sound possible?
how is tim's leg after coming off his mini moto(thats what we call these small bikes in britain) and grazing his leg on new laid gravel?
My Nephew is going to be like that if I weld around him. I'm going to have to have him in the next county to not end up looking at the arc.
ah life’s lessons kid gets his eyes flash burnt it will be a lesson he will remember for the rest of his life.
You're 100% right with that comment I got flashed twice when I was younger and I still remember like it was yesterday, the feeling is like somebody has put rock salt in your eyes and is rubbing it around constantly!
+heyhey1956. I've never burned my eyes while welding before, but I've seen people suffering do to the mistake of not wearing proper equipment. It sounds and looks PAINFUL, I feel sorry for you sir. :)
Jace Schlechter I was working on a production line at GMH mig welding when I got the 2 flashes that buggered up my eyes, even when Wes is welding in his Y/T videos I automatically look away every time!
+heyhey1956. lol, I don't blame you man. The most painful and timely experiences seem to last a lifetime, just like reflexes or natural instinct. How long did it take you to recover? I knew a guy who suffered for weeks, I felt so bad for the guy because he tryed to just deal with the pain rather than getting medical attention. :)
Jace Schlechter I went to the doctor both times, the first time I actually thought I was going blind I never knew a welding flash could do so much harm, both times the Dr gave me some sought of pain killer but it still took weeks before the actual soreness left my eyes, you can now understand why in the movies like that one 'True Lies' when the nuclear flash happens they say look away!
Did you see the JD 8520 Deere Country has for sale Wes? In the Lancaster Farming ad. 305hp
Do you actually need the 3 Point Hitch throughout the year?
Sadly Deere doesn't have an option to replace both with one solid piece for those farmers that don't need to switch back and forth..
Well he could get in contact with a machine shop and get one machined up.
Or his welder
+FishFind3000 that would ruin the hardened shaft
is this a problem that could reoccur again after you rebuild it, due to it's design?
hi it looks as if top bearing has been heating up ps luv your,e youtube reports
Could we be seeing the starting signs of wear and tare brought on by the behemoth krone baler? sure the wear is probablg from having a used shaft in a new housing but like you said there is no reason for that little wear to hear up those bearings that bad and quick. maybe its not from running the baler but from how hard it is to get it to start the baler up.
So the problem is that you've got a hot shaft wriggling in your rear end?
Not permanently lubricated... Makes me wonder ^^
Shouldnt it be oiled with the transmission? Well usually at least, no matter the size..
when you took your shaft out, i couldn't believe how long it was
those two shaft´s should be one piece weld them together with those special welding rods you have
i think ur cooking it & getting play in it becuz its under rated 4 ur baler? might have 2 get a biger deere?
It's not too small, I've seen 74/7530s running big packs no hassle.
SBNTI16 ya thats true if it happens again something wrong.
+MRJOHNDEERE3720 I would agree
SBNTI16 my friends ih 1086 pto has never gotin play in it, & he works the hell out of it.
Big difference between an IH1086 and a JD8120 though. Plus the PTO's between the 2 are of completely different design as well. As Wes stated, he ran the shaft that was already used in a worn piece. In short time, both pieces WILL be worn out. Hence why he now has 2 brand new pieces going back in the 8120.
great advice Tim.. arceye is not nice feels like sand in your eyes......
You got that right, feels like someone has put HOT sand in your eyes, the eyeballs are actually blistered which causes the gritty sensation and creates the watering effect that irritates even more so. .5 % Pontocaineis the only relief but one has to be careful to not get any other foreign object in the eye(s) as the medication deadens the sensation of any thing being in the eye(s) and then followed up by Opthomolic ointment.
hot sand + salt. got arc eye while building a mobile home trailer frame. i was welding nonstop for about 18 hours and the arc flashed off of the shirt i was wearing, and the wall behind me. due to this i went completely blind for 4 days.
if you do decide to watch an arc... here is a little advice... keep a bucket of cold water and a wet rag beside your bed. you're going to need it later. also having somebody there that can see to help you out would not necessarily be a bad thing.
good one for you machale ireland as in fusion baler wont stand over machine if its pulled by jd they say the angel is nt right for shaft nd it is likewise wit jd they wont stand over tractor if pullin machale so i donno seems it 2 makes of balers nw blowin the shaft plate we blew a shaft plate in new tractor jd on a new fusion3 this year......
Also you could be causing the wear because of drive shaft angles when you rotate a shaft with a u joint in it a t an angle the shaft behind the u joint speeds up and slows down twice every rotation this can can cause terrible wear with out you feeling it you can cut back on the wear by raising or lowering your hitch height a little bit in the wrong direction bad mojo
a couple spots inside the differential looked like they got hot as well
Oil it runs in could be a little caustic, seems is you're replacing all of it couldn't you run the old parts till they fail?
In the future is there possible to weld together the shafts to reach axial force ?
with that much HP you would think that shaft would have a lot more spline on it. looks as just a inch or lil more and thats not enough to keep it from wanting to wallow out when it gets a side load on it.
You should get Abom79 to make you a solid shaft instead of that two piece unit.
hopefully it's not a bigger problem their already is.. I have the same light you were using. there way better than a flood light those ones will take a fall and keep working
I would not take it apart without cleaning the brown eye . You said that it got hot the last time you took it apart.
Wouldn't gripe too loud if it is a bearing. It's not like you don't run the dog crap out of that tractor pulling the baler. Tremendous amount of stress on the pto. Just part of doing pto work. Could also be cheap china bearings.....
Parts wear, otherwise there would be now part stores, big bucks in spare part sales.
Ain't it possible to weld them together so no play can occur? Or do you use different size shafts and have to swap them?
Sir, if this is John Deere engenerring, have you considered Fendt?
That shaft would make nice hammers!
But if John Deere made the shafts the way you suggested and took the leverage out of the drive line from the implement then they would't get to sell you a new one every two years and that would cut into their profits.
Hey Tim, how,s the road rash coming? Back to riding that thing yet?
do we get to see the 4960 on the krone??
Was thinking the same thing when I started the video. Then he showed us he already had the parts, kinda made me sad.
+Josh Peterson 4960 would shit it's self trying to run that baler. the 8120 is under powered for that thing by its self
According to tractordata.com. The 4960 produced 210 P.T.O. Horsepower and 176 Drawbar Horse at Nebraska, while the 8120 was 200 P.T.O and 148 Drawbar at Nebraska.
The Krone needs the computer, does it not? Why modify the 4960 which takes as long as repairing the PTO on the 8120?
You are correct. If he didn't have the parts it would be a viable option is all I was saying.
Why you dont take off the 3 point hitch from your tractor.You have easyer acces to the back side in case of repairs en better vieuw to you pickup of the baler
Agree. Also the finger controller for raise and lower, make sure is in full up position and locking tag to hold it there so it doesn't get accidentally lowered. I've had it happen to me were wasn't locked and accidentally lower when running a grain cart.. Luckly didn't tear pto shaft of of It.
That looks like an engineered break down to facilitate parts sales.
could be the extra force the crown baler puts on the power take off forcing those gears apart from each other and doing that load the bearings up harder then normal wearing them out , have to say the bearings look beafy enough to take a load like that i could be misstaken
maibe using a different thicker gear oil could cure that or plumbing in a gear oil cooler
is there a carrier bearing in the end of that housing?
I cant remember if you addressed this or not but did you ever get that information about that odd JD 60 that you have?
Relays location please on the 8120
Watch and learn. It might come in handy when you need to get back in your field as a new farmer.
I will offer my 2 cents.
You have stepped up your demands on the tractor to the maximum it will handle. This maximum tends to be a small percentage of DUTY CYCLE it is rated for. You can increase the capacity of individual parts untill the next part upstream will fail. 200HP duty cycle may only be 60% of the run time, total. If you are using all of the hp ALL of the time, your wear will accelerate by almost double. By only replacing 1 of the 2 mating parts that failed, in my opinion, you have only put a band aid on the situation. 50% wear (splines) accelerated by a 60% duty cycle and only replacing HALF of the mating wear and running at MAXIMUM duty cycle all of the time? Frankly I am surprised you got the time you did before it failed again.
Moment arm of load has surpassed what the parts were ever meant to handle.
Just my opinion.
out of curiosity how different is the 4960s PTO unit from this tractors
Completely different.
4:20ish I am familiar with c hairs & RCH’s but what is a woggle?
What is the cost of living in the farmv
are you going two used the gehl mower this year and I'd so can you make the video of you use ding it
Do you still have the new Holland h6750
runs the 4960 now the krone?
5:12 RIGHT TIM ?
Be shure to get backlash spec and get it as close as you can only thing coming to my mind for exessive friction. don't run the ol girl to hard. but keep her running
whats happening with the CAT
Grease the shaft before you insert, got it.
I'd like to see the 4960 on the baler too though he could run the baler without the braking system on the axles he'd have to move the monitor over and that's not a five minute job to remount get wired along with the video monitor
Think I remember him saying when he bought the 4960 it was from Europe and originally had an air brake system but he subsequently removed it, the gift of hindsight ay! Its on a video somewhere!
+Geeves8612 I've only been watching his videos about two months probably seen near two hundred of them maybe I'll come around to that one yet thanks. but moving the monitor is the bigger job to use that tractor now he just has to be more careful to run less the brakes
To bad you can not add some way to add a zerk set up.
Woke up 2am Not knowing your own name 😆😆 yeah thats so funny with " svetsblink" its called in sweden. What do you americans call it btw?
Good thing you can fix your equipment yourself,else you'd be one broke farmer.
Too bad there isn't a 1 piece kit
Rare squatch sighting
since you like the krone so much why not buy a tractor just for it ?
what are your suggestion ? cause I pretty sure that a 8420 or à 8520 has the same rear end
Fendt 1050 Vario or a 939 Vario :-D
A new/used tractor is expensive... There must be a need - and if the tractor is easily fixed and also economical to run, why buy a new one?
+PuchMaxi1988 l like the fendt idea ;)
you musnt own one then, replacing a vario box every few thousand hours would make this repair look like peanuts.
Only $385 in Canada same part $515, and city types think farming is easy and you make lots of money.
$385 U.S. equals $498 Canadian so its not too awful different
+Josh Peterson don't forget to add in the shipping cost to get it over there, so easily the extra 15+ dollars.
canadian dollar is not worth as much as a US dollar. like a 20 percent difference
I will say that you run the ever living shit out of your PTO compared to most people so you are bound to find the weak spots in them. Haha!
But if they built it well then they could not constantly make money off of you.
That is a poor design, I don't know the fix, someone said weld it, no you cant weld on that kind of metal it will break.
Grab that shaft
Sir, your baler requires a real tractor. John Deere is engineered for drawbar, not pto output!
7:49 " amarican mede shit put matric on " ???
American made machines with metric bolts instead of standard.
bummer
360p gang
Inside the tractors ass something looks to have gotten really hot as well. Look at of the video at about the 10:37 and you can seena shiny part that got hot at the top. This appears to be in the same area that the housing he removed got hot.
you mean the shroud around the crownwheel ? it looks like its welded
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First
heh another with nothin better to say than his own ego to be first
Poor design poor choice on j Deere metal/hardness should never be a problem . Pathetic Chinese junk
if you don't have to change from 21 spline to 540 shaft ever run the welder round it.