@@Alex0992 They are, but do you like how Tavarish or Hoovies each have like 15 cars.. and not any cars, Ferrari, Lamborghini and all top makers? It gets pretty ridiculous and i like it when some of these UA-camrs spread some of the love and fortunes they are blessed with.
You're supposed to do your pulls on the gear that has a 1:1 ratio to get your actual whp readings. Probably gonna have to redo those pulls on both cars
@@JuPac420 I dunno, because for the Mustang they ran it on first gear. That's not a 1:1 gear. Usually its either 3rd or 4th gear depending on the transmission.
That has no bearing on Horse Power. It does how ever have bearing over the cars Torque so yes theoretically speaking if they aren't dynoing the car in 3rd gear to my knowledge this is kinda the universal for 1:1 gear in Automatics they could see "boosted" or better torque numbers but in reality the difference would be an extremely negligent amount. They seemed more interested in a 500 crank HP number than any type of Torque number.
I've watched hundreds of N54 vids the last few years and YOURS SIR....... Is the BEST one yet. Awesome process explanation with each mod along with cause and effect. So perfect dude. Number 1 in my book.
We've come so far from drilling out pinch welds in the backyard in the rain on the Plan B BRZ lol, it's been so awesome seeing and being a part of the channel progression. Cheers!
This is so awesome seeing immediate results from mods and having a "top gear-esque" comparison chart / dyno board with all the power numbers from different cars!...literally days after getting the dyno put together! Not sure of any other channels are doing this kind of thing other than what Cleeter used to do (who is now becoming the king of epic randomness haha). That beamer is putting down some great turbo torques! I'm saying this again, I am always amazed at the amount of content B is for Build jams into every video!
That is a Dynapack dyno and thus a hydraulic load-brake dyno. Once you figure that part out your runs will be much longer and give it enough time to build boost.
@@YYaaall wouldn't change the wheel speed tho, base run dyno didn't even hit 60mph. No way the car was in 4th. Unless you're going to explain to me now that a hub dyno changes the final drive?
That time you accidentally stay past the outro and there's actually a sneak peak. Wonder which Lamborghini he got now, would be cool if he frond a Countach or Diablo.
You can see the speed on the dyno monitor in some of the early runs, at the end of the run he's only doing just over 60mph. As other comments have said, definitely no the correct gear to dyno test these cars. Also you need something like MHD that can deactivate the "kickdown" switch in the automatic cars to get 100% full throttle without the car still downshifting by itself in manual mode. Also, your car already has upgraded silicon inlets.
Do you get the same power from that air filter system with the hood down and some heat in the engine bay like normal driving conditions? I doubt it based on the location of the filters seems like it would be sucking hot air
Those are really super sweet cars. I had one and did everything you guys did and dialed in the JB4 and loved it, the same day I burned my house down and lost it in the fire.
My mind is blown that that air intake added that much power. Never seen an aftermarket air intake add that much. Especially one that just sucks in hot engine air. Crazy
Can you do an update on the M240Z (or whatever name you settled on lol) on your other channel? Thats been one of my favorite builds of yours so I'd love to see how its doing!
I'm doing a similar engine build next year. I like what you are doing with the fuel pump. Not sure what year this car is but my tunning company insisted on pre tune maintenance. This is a must do list below people. Full engine out service: • All the Gaskets -Oil Pan Gasket -Valve Cover Gasket -Oil fiter housing Gasket •Lines •Seals • Ignition Coils Delphi or Bosch • Walnut blast to reduce carbon depsosits on Intake Valve •Spark Plug •New Belt + pully • Electric Oil Pump (Very weak point of N54) • Water Coolant pump •Injectors Index 12 (need to be coded) •Alternator if not been changed •Vanos •Upgraded high highpressure fuel pump •Updated low pressure fuel sensor Peace and respect 😀👍
Things that I enjoyed: the upgrades and the results, great vid. Things that I hated: paint job looks awful, sorry 😐 and the blowing hose (intakes???) at 11:29. No bueno
For the intake, since your hood is open, arent they sucking in a lot more fresh and cooler air than if you had the hood closed (simulating real driving conditions)? I think thats why you had such good gains in power.
Yeah and when the hood is down and the engine bay is heat soaked they won't get anywhere near those numbers. The IAT is gonna be sky fucking high, but i guess thats why the intercooler is so thick lol. They should actually cut through the hood and use those vents for fresh air.
They were also doing the pulls in drive and just mashing the pedal, rather than putting it into the 1:1 gear, which is going to cause inconsistent boost numbers (as he points out) which is going to throw off the pull. Those intakes might make 15 hp more, but I suspect the stock BMW intake wasn't that inefficient to start with, lol.
My N54 build was close to this, except i had upgraded twins that ran around 26psi :-) Awesome build, like the body as well. I would surely recommend getting upgraded twins! It makes it still an awesome daily, but just gets way higher yet still consistent power. This was all running normal fuel, no ethanol.
@@flyhacking5830 Yeah but the intercooler takes that heat back out, and having high flow filters compared to the restrictive stock airbox makes a bigger difference than the heat. You see, the amount of heat in the intake air when you compare ambient to engine bay temp (like a 20 degree delta, 70 outside 90 intake air at the cone) is a tiny amount of heat compared to what those twins put into them. The air coming out of the twins can be 100 degrees or more hotter than ambient, but having a less restrictive inlet to the turbo reduces the amount of heat they put into the charge. This is because with less flow restriction on the inlet side of the turbo, the turbos don't have to spin as fast to make the same power/boost target, and therefore put less heat into the engine. So by going to this hot air intake, you actually lower your engine's intake air temp *(at the intake manifold, not at the cone. Intake manifold air temp is what matters, not cone temp). Honestly, this car needs a good set of full inlets, as the tubes going from those filters to the turbos are actually veryyyyy narrow and restrictive. Do that, make some ducting to make THOSE all cold air aswell, catless exhaust, and i see no reason why this thing cant make 450/475WHP on e50-e70 mix and a custom tune. Maybe more.
Man that BMW came out so nice! I will be honest I didn’t like the sheet metal and rivers but now I don’t even notice them and wow did that kit come out nice. The Mustang well we all knew it would be awesome so no surprise there lol. You boys are killing it.
I'd like to think they've had enough time to figure things out by now and seems like they're doing it right. The mustang on the dyno maybe needs more runs and some upgrades
@@wheeln24-79 The only thing that's going to happen by running it in too low a gear is that the horsepower is going to read low. Maybe they don't want the wheel speed that high for some reason. I mean they are just using it to compare so maybe that's why.
I came here for this exact comment, nearly all my dyno runs are done in 3rd or whatever gear is closest to 1:1 ratio it will provide more accurate torque and power curves
wheeln 24/7 I work at a dyno shop in NorCal, I can tell you that there’s no chance they are in the right gear, so these curves mean nothing. You don’t just grab a dyno and know what you are doing. He needs to get some d rings and some exhaust ventilating and increase the wheel speed or he’s wasting his time
I'm sorry but +14hp from a cone filter would be the most I've ever seen. There has got to be another factor like your hood being open. Also, a stock airbox usually flows better than a hot air cone intake like you have there. A properly installed air intake needs it's own air box with heatshield and a proper cold air supply ( like funneling from the grille)
I came here looking for ways to make my daily a little more fun only to be reminded of the sweet sweet sound my coyote used to make before I traded it for my truck. it's been three years and I still dream about that car...
It's a very good idea that you had for this video. Thing is a lot of video on UA-cam about "upgrading cars" are not tested after each upgrade. They put all the mods and upgrade on the car and then they go to the dyno. Keep it going very good Chanel
@@Midnightclub1992 of course but I was looking at it for on the spot adjustment for the purpose of their video. JB4 quick and easy, mhd is more potent, IMO, but you must know your running tables and hex data or have someone on hand who does for quick changes to any custom file. My tuner takes a few days before he responds to any new logs I send him with a new map/revision. And that's considered fast turnaround in the N54 tuning world.
Those intakes are gonna take hot air from the motor, you should either try to make some time of cool air entry on the bumper or put some tipe of temperature barrier.
Imagine the engineers at BMW.. They engineered the whole air-intake to get fresh air from the grill and route it to the airfilter. Now with these new airintakes they bypass the engineered airflow and indeed just grab hot air directly from the engine bay. They run the dyno with the hood open so they don't run into these issues right now. Wait till the car get's hot with the hood closed.. than you'll even loose horsepower.
I use those terminals on boats and they survive the salt beautifully, I've had wires rot out and leave a perfect terminal behind haha, gotta love that salt life
You are supposed to do it in whatever gear is closest to a 1:1 gear ratio. That's why he has to put in the gear and final drive ratio info into the computer before he runs the cars on the dyno so it can do the math to compensate.
4th gear pull in manual mode, place a small piece of rubber or something under the gas pedal to prevent the kickdown from engaging and you will have a proper pull(or can buy xhp/mhd and disable kickdown)
Definitely wrong to call this a cold air intake. The car came with that stock and it was removed to pull air from the engine bay. I'd have been curious to see how the installed intakes perform with the hood closed after a couple of runs.
On a non turbo charged car that is generally true. However, as was proved in this video by the instant gains with filters and no tune, these cars and many other turbo cars instantly gain from the reduced intake restriction. On top of that because turbo cars have an intercooler pulling the heat out its MUCH less import to be worried about a few degrees change in temperature at the filter. Would it be better colder? Sure, but the reduced restriction is wayyyy more important than filter temp on intercooled boosted cars. Especially ones that route the intakes arrount to the complete opposite side of the engine through pancaked plastic tubes. If you want to see hood closed on road testing with Temps and power, look at the "Zero to 60" channel.
REMOVE the booster pump, its completely unnecessary with stock turbos. I was using my stock lpfp with mmp 1k at 18psi with no issues, you also MUST have catless downpipes, 2" inlets and 21psi to get close to 500whp and need a manual. Also for anyone who wants to try and call me out I have a custom fully built n54 that makes 800awhp at 28psi on a stage 3 head. Oh and no ethanol because it sucks
you lost my interest when i heard piggy back systeme pls give it a professional tune and lose the hot air intake :) or this engine is not going to live long
Typical B is for Build plan. There is no plan, just run it. For future reference, the pulls need to be done closest to 1:1 gear ratio. 4th gear for the Mustang and D with overdrive off for the bimmer. But as usual great content, keep it coming.
When you upgrade the intercooler and charge pipes, usually they are a bigger diameter, this is the reason why you got "less" boost. Because you're filling a bigger intercooler/charge pipes with the same volume which lowers the pressure.
what? no..... lol the map sensor before the throttle body reads the boost pressure and adjusts for what ever with keeping the wastegate more closed.... in turn compensating with more rpm from the turbos. lool this isnt just some fixed venturi in a carb. its a active system that dynamically adapts
We need a fleet update sometime in the near future...
day 320 of the fans asking haha
@@kevinhibbard320 lol
@@nonstopper no the most scattered one is Tavarish by far
Dude i miss so much the Z
I'm so glad Oscar is getting a pretty cool car out of this build. He deserves it!
U mean kyle?
@@Alex0992 lol
@@Alex0992 They are, but do you like how Tavarish or Hoovies each have like 15 cars.. and not any cars, Ferrari, Lamborghini and all top makers? It gets pretty ridiculous and i like it when some of these UA-camrs spread some of the love and fortunes they are blessed with.
Pretty cool it’s a restromod 67 mustang
We *HAVE* to see a supercharger conversion for the Oscarstang
You're supposed to do your pulls on the gear that has a 1:1 ratio to get your actual whp readings. Probably gonna have to redo those pulls on both cars
Sounds like they are running in closest gear to 1:1 to me 🤷🏾♂️
@@JuPac420 I dunno, because for the Mustang they ran it on first gear. That's not a 1:1 gear. Usually its either 3rd or 4th gear depending on the transmission.
@@Rcco131 all cars they test do seem to be blowing through the rpms insanely fast, 1st gear pulls would explain
That has no bearing on Horse Power. It does how ever have bearing over the cars Torque so yes theoretically speaking if they aren't dynoing the car in 3rd gear to my knowledge this is kinda the universal for 1:1 gear in Automatics they could see "boosted" or better torque numbers but in reality the difference would be an extremely negligent amount.
They seemed more interested in a 500 crank HP number than any type of Torque number.
@@Not_Hans It does when the car limits the boost in 1st gear.
That GUI using the speedo needle is BRILLIANT.
I agree but by now it's pretty common to see this on piggyback tuners
Jeremy Clarkson: *This is brilliant*
I have JB4 in my 335i. It's fantastic.
P.S. Wait for the post credits, like you do on every Marvel Comics movie
Oh shit
Now I wonder how much I’ve been missing.
I always wait till the end because of the music but that was a nice bonus
Ohhhhh.... sneaky sneaky at the end of the credits! Lol
Thank you for this comment! 😂
Are you running in 3/4th gear like you are supposed to be? You are burning through the rpm very quickly
ChrisScales17 it’s an automatic car can u put it in a desired gear
@@randylizotte What does it beeing automatic have to do with it?
@@NoiteraD A lot of people's experience with automatics is on older cars where you can't select gears.
@@DirtyYogurt you can select gears by simply driving into to gears like you would on the road
it wouldn't change the end numbers by much.
What gear are the runs done in? Sounds WAY too quick through the rpms for that power to be in 4th gear (or a 1:1-close ratio gear)
I've watched hundreds of N54 vids the last few years and YOURS SIR....... Is the BEST one yet. Awesome process explanation with each mod along with cause and effect. So perfect dude. Number 1 in my book.
We've come so far from drilling out pinch welds in the backyard in the rain on the Plan B BRZ lol, it's been so awesome seeing and being a part of the channel progression. Cheers!
What gear are you running these in? You have to be in the gear closest to 1:1.
these sound like 1st gear pulls lmao
@@INFsleeper they sure do
Normally you do them in fourth. Most cars have close to 1:1 in fourth....
@@JohnDoe-zr6bk the car is automatic
@@scottyL842 That does not mean you cant keep in fourth gear. Most German Automatic trans let you do manual control of the gears....
This is so awesome seeing immediate results from mods and having a "top gear-esque" comparison chart / dyno board with all the power numbers from different cars!...literally days after getting the dyno put together! Not sure of any other channels are doing this kind of thing other than what Cleeter used to do (who is now becoming the king of epic randomness haha). That beamer is putting down some great turbo torques! I'm saying this again, I am always amazed at the amount of content B is for Build jams into every video!
You need an XHP tune for the transmission! Night and day difference!
That is a Dynapack dyno and thus a hydraulic load-brake dyno. Once you figure that part out your runs will be much longer and give it enough time to build boost.
Exactly!
@@YYaaall wouldn't change the wheel speed tho, base run dyno didn't even hit 60mph. No way the car was in 4th. Unless you're going to explain to me now that a hub dyno changes the final drive?
Alec Siegel does it change the final drive ratio by removing the wheels? Aren’t the wheels technically a gear ⚙️ ratio?
@@LearningFast hmmm.... You could be on to something here...
11:07 and 11:27 are those pipes blowing off of the engine important? 😂
🤣🤣🤣
😂 Those are off the charge pipe, they’re supposed to be capped off or reconnected somewhere
Exactly what I came to the comments for....
They're just the blow off valves on an atmo engine 🤣🤣
Lol didn't even notice 🤣
That time you accidentally stay past the outro and there's actually a sneak peak. Wonder which Lamborghini he got now, would be cool if he frond a Countach or Diablo.
For wiring check out posi-tap / posi-lock connectors. Hands down the best and easy to install.
Kyles car is now called "Karl"
is BisforBuild copying car throttle? those blokes give names to their vehicles all the time.
@@kietakas Yes car throttle invented naming cars.
It needs a nice female sounding name.........
U need a catless downpipe to get good results on all bmws
You can see the speed on the dyno monitor in some of the early runs, at the end of the run he's only doing just over 60mph. As other comments have said, definitely no the correct gear to dyno test these cars. Also you need something like MHD that can deactivate the "kickdown" switch in the automatic cars to get 100% full throttle without the car still downshifting by itself in manual mode.
Also, your car already has upgraded silicon inlets.
Well, the kick down on BMWs is a button under the pedal so as long as you don't hit the button, it shouldn't downshift
Always a pleasure stopping by, thx for showing each step thn results tht was awesome
There's a third option for tuning. N54's ecu is flashable, so you can make on stock ecu near 450 with some mechanical upgrade's.
Well done intercooler - you flattened the curve.
PLEASE. Wet sand, or at least polish the paint
all of that time they put into it, and now money....it deserves it. It would look 10x better
Sorry but there is no saving that cheap replica fiber glass bodykit 😂
@@tylerward7628 too fresh? It's been well over a week. All you need is 24 hours of cure time
@@brianwatkins5066 I use clear that needs 3 weeks to fully cure
I don't think there is enough material to even wetsand without burning through it😔
Do you get the same power from that air filter system with the hood down and some heat in the engine bay like normal driving conditions? I doubt it based on the location of the filters seems like it would be sucking hot air
Don't forget to dyno test the bodykit too!
Awesome! Love that you guys went thru the stages of power upgrades and showed real numbers for each...
10:03 Waterproof and Gas proof are two different things Chris! I would check with them to make sure it will work for that application.
Those are really super sweet cars. I had one and did everything you guys did and dialed in the JB4 and loved it, the same day I burned my house down and lost it in the fire.
Definitely mod the mustang. Long tube headers, fuel system, ported ’18+ intake manifold, a proper air intake. And a full exhaust with a custom tune
thats a cool way of showing upgrade potential for each mod
"You guys should probably know if you're this deep into it how to do it on a BMW"
Me Who hasn't got a license nor ever worked on a car: Yup
I just got a 335 this makes me happy to see because I was about to do a similar setup on mine
@John Doe do you recommend any certain fuel pump mine is an f30 with the n55
My mind is blown that that air intake added that much power. Never seen an aftermarket air intake add that much. Especially one that just sucks in hot engine air. Crazy
Can you do an update on the M240Z (or whatever name you settled on lol) on your other channel? Thats been one of my favorite builds of yours so I'd love to see how its doing!
I'm doing a similar engine build next year. I like what you are doing with the fuel pump. Not sure what year this car is but my tunning company insisted on pre tune maintenance. This is a must do list below people.
Full engine out service:
• All the Gaskets
-Oil Pan Gasket
-Valve Cover Gasket
-Oil fiter housing Gasket
•Lines
•Seals
• Ignition Coils Delphi or Bosch
• Walnut blast to reduce carbon depsosits on Intake Valve
•Spark Plug
•New Belt + pully
• Electric Oil Pump (Very weak point of N54)
• Water Coolant pump
•Injectors Index 12 (need to be coded)
•Alternator if not been changed
•Vanos
•Upgraded high highpressure fuel pump
•Updated low pressure fuel sensor
Peace and respect 😀👍
Things that I enjoyed: the upgrades and the results, great vid. Things that I hated: paint job looks awful, sorry 😐 and the blowing hose (intakes???) at 11:29. No bueno
It needs some wet sanding for sure. It won't be perfect but could be a lot better with a little work
I also enjoyed 26:40.
For the intake, since your hood is open, arent they sucking in a lot more fresh and cooler air than if you had the hood closed (simulating real driving conditions)? I think thats why you had such good gains in power.
I'm glad I just bought an 335i very simple mods with serious hp Gain
So glad to see and N54 car getting some love!
Your hood wasn't open on the first run so After the filters where fitted you got more air by having hood open
that is a very valid point
Yeah and when the hood is down and the engine bay is heat soaked they won't get anywhere near those numbers. The IAT is gonna be sky fucking high, but i guess thats why the intercooler is so thick lol. They should actually cut through the hood and use those vents for fresh air.
and those air filters are more of a hot air intake now :)
and that piggyback systeme thats also not very good for the engine
HappyDude definitely more of a hot air intake now lol... the hot air was s rising right into it... what can we do
They were also doing the pulls in drive and just mashing the pedal, rather than putting it into the 1:1 gear, which is going to cause inconsistent boost numbers (as he points out) which is going to throw off the pull. Those intakes might make 15 hp more, but I suspect the stock BMW intake wasn't that inefficient to start with, lol.
My N54 build was close to this, except i had upgraded twins that ran around 26psi :-) Awesome build, like the body as well.
I would surely recommend getting upgraded twins! It makes it still an awesome daily, but just gets way higher yet still consistent power.
This was all running normal fuel, no ethanol.
When he thought a cold air intake wouldnt change a n54 motor muahahaha.
Not a cold air intake lol. That's a hot air intake. Cold air intake is moving the inlets to the grille
@@flyhacking5830 Yeah but the intercooler takes that heat back out, and having high flow filters compared to the restrictive stock airbox makes a bigger difference than the heat. You see, the amount of heat in the intake air when you compare ambient to engine bay temp (like a 20 degree delta, 70 outside 90 intake air at the cone) is a tiny amount of heat compared to what those twins put into them. The air coming out of the twins can be 100 degrees or more hotter than ambient, but having a less restrictive inlet to the turbo reduces the amount of heat they put into the charge. This is because with less flow restriction on the inlet side of the turbo, the turbos don't have to spin as fast to make the same power/boost target, and therefore put less heat into the engine. So by going to this hot air intake, you actually lower your engine's intake air temp *(at the intake manifold, not at the cone. Intake manifold air temp is what matters, not cone temp).
Honestly, this car needs a good set of full inlets, as the tubes going from those filters to the turbos are actually veryyyyy narrow and restrictive. Do that, make some ducting to make THOSE all cold air aswell, catless exhaust, and i see no reason why this thing cant make 450/475WHP on e50-e70 mix and a custom tune. Maybe more.
Man that BMW came out so nice! I will be honest I didn’t like the sheet metal and rivers but now I don’t even notice them and wow did that kit come out nice. The Mustang well we all knew it would be awesome so no surprise there lol. You boys are killing it.
This is one of the few car channels I watch that is actually taking the pandemic seriously. Thank you for that!
You should never drive or cross the street... you coward
My jaw dropped when I saw the gains from just the intakes,these n54s are so under rated
Not valid data 😂
Car was cooler during the intake run than the stock run
you're running these cars in too low of a gear btw
They have to be in whichever gear is closest to 1:1.
I'd like to think they've had enough time to figure things out by now and seems like they're doing it right. The mustang on the dyno maybe needs more runs and some upgrades
@@wheeln24-79 The only thing that's going to happen by running it in too low a gear is that the horsepower is going to read low. Maybe they don't want the wheel speed that high for some reason. I mean they are just using it to compare so maybe that's why.
I came here for this exact comment, nearly all my dyno runs are done in 3rd or whatever gear is closest to 1:1 ratio it will provide more accurate torque and power curves
wheeln 24/7 I work at a dyno shop in NorCal, I can tell you that there’s no chance they are in the right gear, so these curves mean nothing. You don’t just grab a dyno and know what you are doing. He needs to get some d rings and some exhaust ventilating and increase the wheel speed or he’s wasting his time
Definitely a new favorite episode! I love this kinds of episodes! Performance mods over looks
Also, do your pulls at a 1:1 ratio. Usually 3rd or 4th gear on some cars.
Hate to tell you, engineering is science..... and you guys do a lot of engineering! There is science in almost everything you guys do.
JB4 is not the only tuning solution without going stand-alone.....have you not heard of MHD ?
I'm sorry but +14hp from a cone filter would be the most I've ever seen. There has got to be another factor like your hood being open. Also, a stock airbox usually flows better than a hot air cone intake like you have there. A properly installed air intake needs it's own air box with heatshield and a proper cold air supply ( like funneling from the grille)
Y’all need that Xhp flash tune for that auto trans 🤭💯
Great video! What fuel pump and booster did you use? Looking to do the same!
You have got to supercharge the Mustang ASAP
I came here looking for ways to make my daily a little more fun only to be reminded of the sweet sweet sound my coyote used to make before I traded it for my truck. it's been three years and I still dream about that car...
Were you doing first gear pulls? For an accurate number you need to be in 3rd, at least, depending on the number of gears.
It's a very good idea that you had for this video. Thing is a lot of video on UA-cam about "upgrading cars" are not tested after each upgrade. They put all the mods and upgrade on the car and then they go to the dyno.
Keep it going very good Chanel
Definitely should've used MHD instead of the JB4. no taking anything apart, runs better, makes more power.. it's cheaper, the list goes on
True
But, mhd tunes are OTS and they couldn't dial it in like they can the JB4 but you are correct, pound for pound the MHD tunes hit harder for sure.
@@brandonb6684 You can get off the shelf or custom tunes from a variety of popular tuners for the N54 platform
@@Midnightclub1992 of course but I was looking at it for on the spot adjustment for the purpose of their video. JB4 quick and easy, mhd is more potent, IMO, but you must know your running tables and hex data or have someone on hand who does for quick changes to any custom file. My tuner takes a few days before he responds to any new logs I send him with a new map/revision. And that's considered fast turnaround in the N54 tuning world.
Nice hot air intakes. Works great with the hood open. Close the hood and your HP goes down. Put the stock air box back in.
what im saying........ lol hmm wonder why that expensive dinan intake looks the way it does....
Those intakes are gonna take hot air from the motor, you should either try to make some time of cool air entry on the bumper or put some tipe of temperature barrier.
Imagine the engineers at BMW.. They engineered the whole air-intake to get fresh air from the grill and route it to the airfilter. Now with these new airintakes they bypass the engineered airflow and indeed just grab hot air directly from the engine bay. They run the dyno with the hood open so they don't run into these issues right now. Wait till the car get's hot with the hood closed.. than you'll even loose horsepower.
@@ardonjr this
I use those terminals on boats and they survive the salt beautifully, I've had wires rot out and leave a perfect terminal behind haha, gotta love that salt life
Aren't you meant to do the power runs in 4th gear?
Yes, yes you are. But this is B is for Build.
You are supposed to do it in whatever gear is closest to a 1:1 gear ratio. That's why he has to put in the gear and final drive ratio info into the computer before he runs the cars on the dyno so it can do the math to compensate.
4th gear pull in manual mode, place a small piece of rubber or something under the gas pedal to prevent the kickdown from engaging and you will have a proper pull(or can buy xhp/mhd and disable kickdown)
Today we put Carl's Kye on the dyno...
channel got even better with the Dyno on the shop! 👍
You'll want to do catless downpipes if you haven't already - that will give you a big bump in power.
Jamie Schneider prob can’t because of emissions
He said cars already straight piped so I’d assume so
@@oCaptainKorma it's just a muffler delete
Sneak peaks always worth the wait.
"Kyrle's" beamer looks dope.
I love that Chris teaches as he goes
Some knocking is heard sometimes and then some misfires, maybe thats why boost is fluctuating
Awesome vlog ones again Mr. Wig. Is here to.
Cold air intakes are good for induction noises, without supporting mods and a tune they're basically useless
Definitely wrong to call this a cold air intake. The car came with that stock and it was removed to pull air from the engine bay. I'd have been curious to see how the installed intakes perform with the hood closed after a couple of runs.
@@DirtyYogurt oh no this is a hot air intake all day 🤣 I'm speaking in general for people who slap cone filters on
On a non turbo charged car that is generally true. However, as was proved in this video by the instant gains with filters and no tune, these cars and many other turbo cars instantly gain from the reduced intake restriction.
On top of that because turbo cars have an intercooler pulling the heat out its MUCH less import to be worried about a few degrees change in temperature at the filter. Would it be better colder? Sure, but the reduced restriction is wayyyy more important than filter temp on intercooled boosted cars.
Especially ones that route the intakes arrount to the complete opposite side of the engine through pancaked plastic tubes.
If you want to see hood closed on road testing with Temps and power, look at the "Zero to 60" channel.
@@deadlyassassin240 oh I've no doubt what you're saying, I've just never seen my tuner run with the hood closed even on NA cars
How much power will you lose with those dual cones once the engine bay becomes heat soaked? Dyno numbers only tell so much.
called the "hot air intakes" in the 335 world
ua-cam.com/video/6U1dFnllsqE/v-deo.html
Ill just leave this here...
Chris has a problem... He kicked the BRZ's and now he keeps buying Lamborghini's.
I have to say, that BMW with the custom kit and paint job, one of a kind 👌 😎
You need to slow the ramp speed down or choose a higher gear. That's not what a power curve should ever look like
Definitely think Chris needs to invest in a dyno course lol
Awesome to see each mod and the horse power gain. Great channel !!!
Damn 7 minutes and already 2k views, The B fam goes hard !!!
the best quote I've heard in a while " I don't know what happens on my youtube channel " Signs of great content
Xhp flash tool app to mod the transmission shifting
Maybe Kyle can film an episode on how to set sand that beast 🔥
Mustang is looking SICK!
when we getting another episode of your supercar build? much love
Adding an MHD backend flash with the JB4 should increase boost and get you guys closer to your goal. Super cheap and easy to do also.
needs to dump the jb4 all together
The BMW needs XHP for the transmission.
Would defiantly make it have a better 1/4
This is like Sema since its not happening this year love this channel
Those who owner N54 before will know what comes next.....
Hint: 30FF
na he changed piping
@@1VETaLEK2 early piping isn't unreliable anyway
Awesome, I thought the DCI were useless but I might get a pair now
MHD is the move for tuning N54s btw
Nah, its much safer to run jb4 than mhd AND there is more maps. Only good thing about mhd is Burble tune
glad I stuck it out to the end on this episode!
It's a bad idea running your cars in first on a dyno. Use the gear closest to 1:1.
Did Chris go full Rick Grimes there for a second? CORAL!
For the future close your hood so that you recreate real world/on road scenario. Difference should be more accurate.
To dyno test? 😳
Tuners have the hood open during dyno pulls, especially on forced induction cars, to provide more consistent results due to the threat of heatsoak
Yea for heat soak you let the car cool down after each run, but for accurate results you close the hood. Just my two cents brotha...
@@REDLINEBECKONZ aye no issues here bro. My tuner runs the car with the hood open, I've never objected to it
This was an awesome video. You guys made the modifications to the BMW look easy
MHD is a better “tuner” and way easier just OBD and a samsung phone and all good to go
really hoping they see these comments everyone i know that has switched from jb4 to mhd will never look back
They just release the WiFi adaptor that works with IOS as well, but jb4 with mhd bef is amazing
@@yourselfidiot34 yup jb4 is junk, belongs in 2008 or when ever it came out...
Happy to see a mod by mod dyno test on the n54 !!!! Thank you
REMOVE the booster pump, its completely unnecessary with stock turbos. I was using my stock lpfp with mmp 1k at 18psi with no issues, you also MUST have catless downpipes, 2" inlets and 21psi to get close to 500whp and need a manual. Also for anyone who wants to try and call me out I have a custom fully built n54 that makes 800awhp at 28psi on a stage 3 head. Oh and no ethanol because it sucks
Damn!!! That thing is straight beast mode!
you lost my interest when i heard piggy back systeme
pls give it a professional tune
and lose the hot air intake :)
or this engine is not going to live long
you are wrong sir
Typical B is for Build plan. There is no plan, just run it. For future reference, the pulls need to be done closest to 1:1 gear ratio. 4th gear for the Mustang and D with overdrive off for the bimmer. But as usual great content, keep it coming.
Am I the only one who doesnt like this car at all? The wheels are off and those things covering the wide body is just ugly af
When you upgrade the intercooler and charge pipes, usually they are a bigger diameter, this is the reason why you got "less" boost. Because you're filling a bigger intercooler/charge pipes with the same volume which lowers the pressure.
what? no..... lol the map sensor before the throttle body reads the boost pressure and adjusts for what ever with keeping the wastegate more closed.... in turn compensating with more rpm from the turbos. lool this isnt just some fixed venturi in a carb. its a active system that dynamically adapts