Hey Jeff, Just did this to my 2007 Yamaha AR230 HO and it went smoothly thanks to you. I would not have had the confidence to attempt this with out your very informative video. So, just a shout out to say THANKS for taking the time to help out others. You da Man!
This is so cool. Thank you for being so generous with your time to put this out for all of us. I got my first boat at the end of last year. I got a 2021 AR190. Hopefully I won’t have to do this for a while, but I plan on owning this boat until it dies and I love learning as much as possible. Thx man.
I have to say more because I’m so grateful you made this quality vid. Ther at dozens of great tips in addition to the heart of the instructions. For example, greasing the shaft for next time, how the water cooling filter works, WD40 and scotch pad, running engine without pump to help diagnose a noise if needed. You sure know what the heck you are doing. Thx again.
@Jeff Does This... thanks for the video. The mobil 1 synthetic grease that you you to grease shaft is red but the link you listed is not. Which one do I buy. Thanks
Great channel! Picked up a 2009 SX230 for a sweet deal and all the superficial maintenance had been done regularly. On the test drive it seemed to lack power and was running at 8000rpm at 25mph. Checked the jet pump clean out plugs and they would not seat properly or lock. Thanks to your videos I’m picking up the rebuild kit for both which will solve that problem and hopefully the power issue. As a precaution I removed the jet pump assemblies and the impellers/wear rings are like new. Also the left engine would just die at cruise and not turn over. I did the clean out hatch switch bypass and problem fixed! Thanks again
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it helps me out a lot. I have a 2008 AR 230 and I have cavitation/ventilation issues that I’m hoping to fix by changing the impeller and wearing.
Great job Jeff. I have the same make and year as yours. All your videos help me with my boat. I'll be doing some things this year I've watched in your videos.
Hey Now! Great Video!!! Great information, well presented, listing tools up front is pro, easy to follow, and super informative. The little extras for setting up for future ease of removal is a nice touch. Thanks a lot. Highly recommended!
Just a word of caution - Scortch Brite scour bads, just like any abrasives shed particles that will accelerate bearing wear. If a surface needs lapping, use a stone with low force. It will still shed particles, but not as much. Packing the pocket with the bearing and an fresh, oiled shop rag and wiping down the surface after sanding (and before removing the packing) will help control contamination. Don't need to use brake cleaner every time to completely degrease and clean the bearing, just try to keep the abrasive particles out.
Jeff, I don’t believe the Epnoc grease is designed for use in the bearing itself but only in the cap. Yamalube marine grease is used for the bearing, as per the service manual, at least in my manual.
My 07 AR210 service manual, which covers the 2006-2011 AR210/SX210 and the 2006-2007 SR210, also calls for marine grease on the bearings and EPNOC grease in the cone only, 1/3 full. Thanks for your content as well Capt.
i think marine grease may be to thick to flow properly ( front to rear bearing ) .. what waverunner guys do is make their own stuf with marine grease mixed with synthetic gear oil just about when its about start running consistancy ...
A few points: The bolt on the steering clevis should ALWAYS go from the top down. This is to keep it from falling out if the nut comes off. Don't use sharp tools on an O-ring groove, you could scratch it. Wrap your fingers around both sides of the cone and squeeze the O-ring until it bulges out and grab it and pull it off. What good does it do to repack only one bearing? What about lubricating the steering and shift cables?
Hay Jeff where do you get just the plastic bushings for the steering linkage connection bolt? With out buying the whole connection for $64 …Please help !! Thank you Jeff
Jeff, Thank you for all the videos. They are informative. When I reinstall the pump, specifically the steering arm, mine does not freely turn like yours. I’ve tried it as loose as possible and roughly as tight as you did. When I turn the wheel, however, it does turn. Is there something I should be concerned about with the steering arm? 2013 SX190 Thank you, Jeff
Nothing to worry about it. The fact that it is tighter is a good thing. Over time the joints and pump casting wear which cause more of gap or tolerance in the pivot areas. Mine just has more slop to it.
Jeff, awesome video. I removed one side due to getting my wakeboard roap stuck. When I tried to install an o-ring was hanging out where the shaft rod was. Do you know how I can find this seal? Mine is destroyed and can't find anywhere... I even checked Revzilla and don't see it on there.
Hey Jeff it looks like the bearing isn't getting any of that bearing Grease. Is there a certain temperature Grease to make sure it gets into the bearing
My 2007 sx230ho starboard motor just started making a clanking sound while on the water. Pulled the impeller shaft like you did in the video, and the splines at the end of the shaft going toward crankcase are shaved down. I assuming I need to replace shaft and maybe coupler. Didn't know if this was typical and if other parts should be replaced while doing this repair. Thanks for any help.
I tear them down at the end of every season. It is a very simple service and if I find anything wrong then I have all fall/winter to buy parts or get it fixed and I know I ready for the season. This is just my style, everyone does it differently and I typically keep my boats way longer than I keep my vehicles so I want them to last. I traded my boat every 3 years for a new one then I probably wouldn't do anything but change the oil!!!!!
Very helpful video, I just pulled the pump out after watching your UA-cam video. Only question i have is after removing the bearing nut the impeller would not come out? I expected to just come lose. The only reason i am attempting to remove it is there is a rope that got stuck behind it and i cant remove it by hand. Any ideas?
You will have to use a shop press to remove the impeller shaft. I would just remove the impeller from shaft because it would be alot easier. There a ton video on how to remove/replace an impeller on the boats.
Yamaha does not provide a service interval for greasing the cone bearings. I would grease it every 2 years. But, I would pull the cone off and inspect it for water intrusion(caused by a failed oring or seal) every year. If it is your first time removing the cone I would go ahead and replace the oring. All it takes is a $4 oring to fail to ruin $600 jet pump.
I use the stock impellers and cone. Our boat will still go 50mph and honestly we rarely go over 35mph. We typically have 3 surfboard and 2 wakeboards hanging from our racks and bimini top.
awesome video! I have a 2004 sea doo challenger 1800 and definitely hear some metal clanging. impeller shows some wear for sure. should I replace the impeller shaft or just machine it down?? And do you like the merc 240 engine
I'm Blu-Crew Yamaha all the way Joe so I have little experience with Sea Doo and Rotax/BRP engine/pumps. I'm not saying they make a bad product or poor qualtily but I have very little experience with those makes/models.
Jeff, the service manual shows the jet pump assembly bolts torque settings at 21.6nm or 15.6 ft lbs. in your video you mention the factory torque setting is 40 ft lbs. was this an error? I don’t want to snap off a bolt in there. Thanks
How critical is alignment during reassembly? Can the intermediate bearing shaft seal be ruined during this job? Mine went back together fine but curious if it can be damaged during this job
Hi Jeff- @19.29, shows the impeller housing, and you can see the impeller “sleeve” / “wear ring” inside the housing. Can you tell me how the sleeve comes off. Sucked up a rock on my 22’ AR195 and have to repair sleeve/impeller as both are damaged. You’re video helped alot but doesnt speak to replacing the sleeve/wear ring- any info is greatly appreciated.
That's because there is no sleeve to replace. The sleeve/wear ring machined from one solid piece so there is nothing to press out or in. So, to replace it you have to replace the whole thing which is referred to as a housing impeller. amzn.to/3O3oNzG Now you can buy an aftermarket setup that has a replaceable liner but you still have to buy their housing for it.
@@JeffDoesThis just spoke w dealer at length abt this. They confirmed, mine does have a sleeve and can be removed. Im thinking w newer yamaha models, the impeller housing sleeve can be replaced w out having to replace the entire housing.
I’m thinking a good synthetic motor oil would be superior, and it would lubricator both bearings without taking shaft all the way off pump housing. Watched a guy that runs only oil in his wheel bearings and showed proof of how well it works. I know what you’re thinking, it will leak out. I dunno? Plus, would take less power to turn
I don't know man? Epnoc grease is only $5 and yamaha makes and sell synthetic oil too so I would go with the Epnoc grease. I think the big thing is moisture accumulating in the cone because of it being submerged in water and the bearing heating up and cooling down from just use. So that's probably why they don't use motor oil. Just my 2 cents.
Are these bearings also referred to as intermediate bearing? Correct me if I'm wrong. If so, there's a zurk fitting in the engine compartment where it can be pumped on my 05 sx230
No the Intermediate bearing is located at the rear of engine in the engine bay. It is was couples the engine to the jet pump. There is a grease fitting with an extension on it located by the thermostat housing.
Once a season in the spring. If you boat year round, then probably twice. The grease doesn't get squeezed or slung out like a steering joint or a wheel bearing.
Sometimes you got to use a little bit of force. I would try using a rubber mallet and find a spot you can tap on it and loosing it up. Spray a penetrant(PB Blaster) fluid in the bolt holes too. Is this a salt water boat?
I got her open, I removed all the way up to the ring then used a bit of heat and split each section Any tricks to pull the bearing out? I’m thinking of a puller but not sure how I am going to drive the new one back in. Thanks for your help your video inspired me
I do it at the end of every season. My personal opinion is this, as simple as it to remove it should be done at the end or beginning of the season. Do it at the end of season and if you need to buy parts or replace anything you have all winter to get it done.
I have a couple of quick questions. My jet pump isn't removing as effortlessly as it is in your video. I got the bucket part off but had to hit it with a rubber hammer back and forth a bunch of times. The second portion of the jet pump is not moving. I'm soaking it in WD-40 but does anyone have any advice on how to get it off when it seems to be stuck? I tried using a screw driver with the pry tabs but it's bending my screw driver! Should I assume that this boat probably hasn't had the cone grease maintained for quite a long time?
@MentorRupted Yes. I am pretty sure this is caused was because of a calcium-like deposit on the flush mating surfaces between the housing and the duct assembly. Because I was frustrated, I soaked the joint between the housing and the duct in PB blaster (penetrating oil) and I used a flat bar on the tabs. One broke on one side previous to the PB which I will replace later. I was able to slowly pry the duct from the housing carefully. I moved around the duct so I didn’t apply too much force. I would recommend being very careful not to mar up the surfaces but use leverage on opposite sides of the duct after you hit it with a lot of PB for a couple of days. Hope this helps.
I want to make sure the seals that keep water out of the cone bearings have not failed. It only takes me about 30 minutes for each jet pump to do this start to finish. If you destroy the impeller shaft from a bearing rusting away it will cost you around $450 for a new impeller shaft. People spend more time washing their boat then checking simple things that can save them BIG money.
That would require you to remove the impeller then the 2 oil seals and then the drive shaft. That's why I didn't remove it in the video. The drive shaft typically has to be pressed out.
Actually, that epoch grease is not for the bearing. If you look at the service manual, it calls for epoch in the cone and a different grease in the bearing. Another observation, Scotch Bite so close to an open bearing is not a good idea!
Do you know the grease for the bearings I should purchase? Also, what would you recommend for cleaning the old grease from the bearings? Thanks in advance!
Hey Jeff,
Just did this to my 2007 Yamaha AR230 HO and it went smoothly thanks to you. I would not have had the confidence to attempt this with out your very informative video. So, just a shout out to say THANKS for taking the time to help out others.
You da Man!
Anytime friend! Stay tuned, we will have some new videos coming out next week.
I changed my impeller housing and greased my cone, your video was every helpful. Thank you. Great content
Thank you for the positive comment!
Fantastic instruction...the engineering for maintenance purposes is so much better than the Sea Doo jet boat!
This is so cool. Thank you for being so generous with your time to put this out for all of us. I got my first boat at the end of last year. I got a 2021 AR190. Hopefully I won’t have to do this for a while, but I plan on owning this boat until it dies and I love learning as much as possible. Thx man.
I have to say more because I’m so grateful you made this quality vid. Ther at dozens of great tips in addition to the heart of the instructions. For example, greasing the shaft for next time, how the water cooling filter works, WD40 and scotch pad, running engine without pump to help diagnose a noise if needed.
You sure know what the heck you are doing. Thx again.
Thanks Jeff! Bought a 2008 SX210 last year, just pulled the pumps this morning thanks to your video!
Anytime. Stay tuned, this spring more Jet boat videos on the way!
@Jeff Does This... thanks for the video. The mobil 1 synthetic grease that you you to grease shaft is red but the link you listed is not. Which one do I buy. Thanks
@Jeff Does This... hey thjeff. Do you have a video on how to maintenance the main intermediate bearing.
Great channel! Picked up a 2009 SX230 for a sweet deal and all the superficial maintenance had been done regularly. On the test drive it seemed to lack power and was running at 8000rpm at 25mph. Checked the jet pump clean out plugs and they would not seat properly or lock. Thanks to your videos I’m picking up the rebuild kit for both which will solve that problem and hopefully the power issue. As a precaution I removed the jet pump assemblies and the impellers/wear rings are like new. Also the left engine would just die at cruise and not turn over. I did the clean out hatch switch bypass and problem fixed! Thanks again
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it helps me out a lot. I have a 2008 AR 230 and I have cavitation/ventilation issues that I’m hoping to fix by changing the impeller and wearing.
Great job Jeff. I have the same make and year as yours. All your videos help me with my boat. I'll be doing some things this year I've watched in your videos.
Hey Now! Great Video!!! Great information, well presented, listing tools up front is pro, easy to follow, and super informative. The little extras for setting up for future ease of removal is a nice touch. Thanks a lot. Highly recommended!
Just a word of caution - Scortch Brite scour bads, just like any abrasives shed particles that will accelerate bearing wear.
If a surface needs lapping, use a stone with low force. It will still shed particles, but not as much. Packing the pocket with the bearing and an fresh, oiled shop rag and wiping down the surface after sanding (and before removing the packing) will help control contamination.
Don't need to use brake cleaner every time to completely degrease and clean the bearing, just try to keep the abrasive particles out.
Great video I’ve been searching for one for my xlt 1200 to change the grease in the jet pump and this looks like it’s the same pump
Thanks
Awesome video Jeff, just got some new waverunners and learning how to do all the PM.
This is an awesome video. Great job. Will be on my list for this year 100%
Jeff, I don’t believe the Epnoc grease is designed for use in the bearing itself but only in the cap. Yamalube marine grease is used for the bearing, as per the service manual, at least in my manual.
My 07 AR210 service manual, which covers the 2006-2011 AR210/SX210 and the 2006-2007 SR210, also calls for marine grease on the bearings and EPNOC grease in the cone only, 1/3 full. Thanks for your content as well Capt.
@@Trigger_32 all good! Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
i think marine grease may be to thick to flow properly ( front to rear bearing ) .. what waverunner guys do is make their own stuf with marine grease mixed with synthetic gear oil just about when its about start running consistancy ...
A few points:
The bolt on the steering clevis should ALWAYS go from the top down. This is to keep it from falling out if the nut comes off.
Don't use sharp tools on an O-ring groove, you could scratch it. Wrap your fingers around both sides of the cone and squeeze the O-ring until it bulges out and grab it and pull it off.
What good does it do to repack only one bearing?
What about lubricating the steering and shift cables?
Great video I am about to do this for the 1st time on my ar210 08
I'm glad it helped you out.
Nice video. Doing that this month
Great information. Thank you for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
Hay Jeff where do you get just the plastic bushings for the steering linkage connection bolt? With out buying the whole connection for $64 …Please help !! Thank you Jeff
I will look into it but no promises.
Jeff,
Thank you for all the videos. They are informative. When I reinstall the pump, specifically the steering arm, mine does not freely turn like yours. I’ve tried it as loose as possible and roughly as tight as you did. When I turn the wheel, however, it does turn.
Is there something I should be concerned about with the steering arm? 2013 SX190
Thank you, Jeff
Nothing to worry about it. The fact that it is tighter is a good thing. Over time the joints and pump casting wear which cause more of gap or tolerance in the pivot areas. Mine just has more slop to it.
awesome vid, thanks.
Jeff, awesome video. I removed one side due to getting my wakeboard roap stuck. When I tried to install an o-ring was hanging out where the shaft rod was. Do you know how I can find this seal? Mine is destroyed and can't find anywhere... I even checked Revzilla and don't see it on there.
Good info
Good job showing telling, keep up the good work be safe and hope I can do it good has you. Have a good one see ya next time see ya bye.
Thanks, you too!
Hey Jeff it looks like the bearing isn't getting any of that bearing Grease.
Is there a certain temperature Grease to make sure it gets into the bearing
The plates you have on the back do they help with steering especially at idle
Yes they do. They are made by Cobra Jet Steering
Jet boat pilot. Thrust vectors!! AMAZIIIING!!!
great video, Thank you!
Thank you!
My 2007 sx230ho starboard motor just started making a clanking sound while on the water. Pulled the impeller shaft like you did in the video, and the splines at the end of the shaft going toward crankcase are shaved down. I assuming I need to replace shaft and maybe coupler. Didn't know if this was typical and if other parts should be replaced while doing this repair. Thanks for any help.
how often do you service these jets , how many run hours
I tear them down at the end of every season. It is a very simple service and if I find anything wrong then I have all fall/winter to buy parts or get it fixed and I know I ready for the season. This is just my style, everyone does it differently and I typically keep my boats way longer than I keep my vehicles so I want them to last. I traded my boat every 3 years for a new one then I probably wouldn't do anything but change the oil!!!!!
Very helpful video, I just pulled the pump out after watching your UA-cam video. Only question i have is after removing the bearing nut the impeller would not come out? I expected to just come lose. The only reason i am attempting to remove it is there is a rope that got stuck behind it and i cant remove it by hand. Any ideas?
You will have to use a shop press to remove the impeller shaft. I would just remove the impeller from shaft because it would be alot easier. There a ton video on how to remove/replace an impeller on the boats.
Are there symptoms that would indicate this service is needed, or is this routine maintenance? How often should this service be done?
Yamaha does not provide a service interval for greasing the cone bearings. I would grease it every 2 years. But, I would pull the cone off and inspect it for water intrusion(caused by a failed oring or seal) every year. If it is your first time removing the cone I would go ahead and replace the oring. All it takes is a $4 oring to fail to ruin $600 jet pump.
This is gold! I may have to swap props for high altitude. Have you upgraded the cone and got results?
I use the stock impellers and cone. Our boat will still go 50mph and honestly we rarely go over 35mph. We typically have 3 surfboard and 2 wakeboards hanging from our racks and bimini top.
@@JeffDoesThis good info- thanks~!
awesome video! I have a 2004 sea doo challenger 1800 and definitely hear some metal clanging. impeller shows some wear for sure. should I replace the impeller shaft or just machine it down?? And do you like the merc 240 engine
I'm Blu-Crew Yamaha all the way Joe so I have little experience with Sea Doo and Rotax/BRP engine/pumps. I'm not saying they make a bad product or poor qualtily but I have very little experience with those makes/models.
Thank you!!!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the video I sub.
Tons of videos and more coming this spring/summer!
how is Maintenace on a jet boat. looking at a 2005 and was curious.
Change the oil, change the spark plugs and I check the jet pump. Simple!
What kind of rubber gloves you use? Mine always rip🤣🤣
Gorilla brand(walmart)
Jeff, the service manual shows the jet pump assembly bolts torque settings at 21.6nm or 15.6 ft lbs. in your video you mention the factory torque setting is 40 ft lbs. was this an error? I don’t want to snap off a bolt in there. Thanks
It's 40. 15ft lbs of toque is nothing.
How critical is alignment during reassembly? Can the intermediate bearing shaft seal be ruined during this job? Mine went back together fine but curious if it can be damaged during this job
You would have to use a lot of force to damage the seal. I'm sure it's possible but highly unlikely.
Hi Jeff- @19.29, shows the impeller housing, and you can see the impeller “sleeve” / “wear ring” inside the housing. Can you tell me how the sleeve comes off. Sucked up a rock on my 22’ AR195 and have to repair sleeve/impeller as both are damaged. You’re video helped alot but doesnt speak to replacing the sleeve/wear ring- any info is greatly appreciated.
That's because there is no sleeve to replace. The sleeve/wear ring machined from one solid piece so there is nothing to press out or in. So, to replace it you have to replace the whole thing which is referred to as a housing impeller. amzn.to/3O3oNzG
Now you can buy an aftermarket setup that has a replaceable liner but you still have to buy their housing for it.
@@JeffDoesThis just spoke w dealer at length abt this. They confirmed, mine does have a sleeve and can be removed. Im thinking w newer yamaha models, the impeller housing sleeve can be replaced w out having to replace the entire housing.
I’m thinking a good synthetic motor oil would be superior, and it would lubricator both bearings without taking shaft all the way off pump housing. Watched a guy that runs only oil in his wheel bearings and showed proof of how well it works. I know what you’re thinking, it will leak out. I dunno? Plus, would take less power to turn
I don't know man? Epnoc grease is only $5 and yamaha makes and sell synthetic oil too so I would go with the Epnoc grease. I think the big thing is moisture accumulating in the cone because of it being submerged in water and the bearing heating up and cooling down from just use. So that's probably why they don't use motor oil. Just my 2 cents.
Jeff's Jet Boat - Yamaha Jet Boats that sounds pretty logical to me. Thanks
At 19:15 you mentioned a metal sound on the port side, did you figure out what it was?
It's just noises from the jet pump not being loaded or having resistance from the being out of the water which is completely normal.
Do i need to have water flow to check if engine is making noise when pumps or out?
If you plan on running the engines more than 30 seconds then yes.
Are these bearings also referred to as intermediate bearing? Correct me if I'm wrong. If so, there's a zurk fitting in the engine compartment where it can be pumped on my 05 sx230
No the Intermediate bearing is located at the rear of engine in the engine bay. It is was couples the engine to the jet pump. There is a grease fitting with an extension on it located by the thermostat housing.
Great video! No loctite on any of the bolts?
None used. Now that doesn't mean you can't but I'm my opinion it is not needed especially if you service your pump every year.
HELP!! 2004 SX230 WILL NOT EXCEED 6000 RPM! CHANGED THROTTLE SENSOR NOT IT!!
How often should I grease the intermediate bearing block on 2019 AR210?
Once a season in the spring. If you boat year round, then probably twice. The grease doesn't get squeezed or slung out like a steering joint or a wheel bearing.
No thread locker on the bolts? How does the inner bearing get greased?
I go over both those questions in video.
Good day guys, 2008 ar210
I just got my bolts off the pump but I can’t get her to open up
Sometimes you got to use a little bit of force. I would try using a rubber mallet and find a spot you can tap on it and loosing it up. Spray a penetrant(PB Blaster) fluid in the bolt holes too. Is this a salt water boat?
I got her open, I removed all the way up to the ring then used a bit of heat and split each section
Any tricks to pull the bearing out? I’m thinking of a puller but not sure how I am going to drive the new one back in. Thanks for your help your video inspired me
How often should we do this? Yearly or every other season?
I do it at the end of every season. My personal opinion is this, as simple as it to remove it should be done at the end or beginning of the season. Do it at the end of season and if you need to buy parts or replace anything you have all winter to get it done.
I have a couple of quick questions. My jet pump isn't removing as effortlessly as it is in your video. I got the bucket part off but had to hit it with a rubber hammer back and forth a bunch of times. The second portion of the jet pump is not moving. I'm soaking it in WD-40 but does anyone have any advice on how to get it off when it seems to be stuck? I tried using a screw driver with the pry tabs but it's bending my screw driver! Should I assume that this boat probably hasn't had the cone grease maintained for quite a long time?
What year and model?
@@JeffDoesThis 2008 AR230HO, I believe the same boat you have in your videos.
Shoot me an email at jeffsjetboat@gmail.com and send me a picture of your pump.
@MentorRupted Yes.
I am pretty sure this is caused was because of a calcium-like deposit on the flush mating surfaces between the housing and the duct assembly.
Because I was frustrated, I soaked the joint between the housing and the duct in PB blaster (penetrating oil) and I used a flat bar on the tabs. One broke on one side previous to the PB which I will replace later. I was able to slowly pry the duct from the housing carefully. I moved around the duct so I didn’t apply too much force. I would recommend being very careful not to mar up the surfaces but use leverage on opposite sides of the duct after you hit it with a lot of PB for a couple of days. Hope this helps.
Hi Jeff, Any reason why u do this every year ?
I want to make sure the seals that keep water out of the cone bearings have not failed. It only takes me about 30 minutes for each jet pump to do this start to finish. If you destroy the impeller shaft from a bearing rusting away it will cost you around $450 for a new impeller shaft. People spend more time washing their boat then checking simple things that can save them BIG money.
Similar on the sx210?
The same.
back bearing how do you get grease in there?
That would require you to remove the impeller then the 2 oil seals and then the drive shaft. That's why I didn't remove it in the video. The drive shaft typically has to be pressed out.
@@JeffDoesThis i would think just grease the fron and stand the whole pump with shaft vertical for overnight it will drip down to back side
Useful but should go forward with bearing at list tell us bearing numbers
Ok next time
Actually, that epoch grease is not for the bearing. If you look at the service manual, it calls for epoch in the cone and a different grease in the bearing. Another observation, Scotch Bite so close to an open bearing is not a good idea!
Do you know the grease for the bearings I should purchase? Also, what would you recommend for cleaning the old grease from the bearings? Thanks in advance!