Double check your links and rod-ends (Every turn matters!). Because when building the extension to my DasHex chassis, I had both sides screwed together side-by-side. The screw-holes matched perfectly!
Oh, no, these holes are visibly misaligned. It sucks. It was that way when I got it and never realized until not long ago. I almost want to cut a new set of rails out of aluminum.
Big like form me! 👍 And thank you, I've been trying to find someone willing to go into production making solid 1/24 moa axles for many years. That's good news!! 💥
That was one of my main points. I'm also wondering about worm gear versus ring and pinion. The torque involved would be amazing. An N20, coupled straight into a worm gear with a 4:1 reduction at the motor, itself, would be unreal. I think right now, the idea is to basically build a set of Z2-like axles and see how they perform. I really just need to get off my ass and start designing a set, myself. The coupled N20 on worm gear is the way, of this I am sure. Like the current OD setup, it can still be controlled with the axle ring while maintaining all the torque. The other key will be allowing for room at the upper links. I don't see that being a problem, though.
@@VermontScaleCustoms High gear reduction in a tight space (more clearance + high torque) is very desirable. But worm gears can't be back driven or in this case forward driven.. they lock in place. It's better to have the motors do the work, by setting the drag break. (Rear stronger, front less - using programmable esc's.) You can also play with the trim settings/ dead point, which would work with the worm gears. Not sure how this would effect the esc long-term. What you really want, is to be able to fully stop at anytime, but when extreme downhilling, to gradually keep rolling. Why? Because, in extreme downhill situations you need full control, even if you have to stop (Break is not stop!) half way down in order to position to get the next gate (Stop is not break! ..lol). N20 motors are far more durable than I ever expected. But I doubt, the tiny gear can handle real heavy duty crawling action.
I have a question, "asking for a friend": What are you looking for? The Dementor does incredible climbs, then you showed your new favourite that OGRC chassis, then tore it all apart for the LGRP, they are all going up those rocks quite fine. I recently found a very cool outdoor spot and was running for the first time really on a place like that, had a 3D printed Echo chassis with Injora parts with me and was surprised that this ran very fine and thought now what do i need the Cheat Code and Mofo Chassis (and that 500 bucks Hardpark order soon coming) for - also - i love to watch those videos and watch my brushless rig in the living room move in FOC mode, sqeezing tires in slow motion - but outside standing some (short) distance from it i don't even see those details, brushed motor is fine. I would have to sit or lay on the ground near that rock to notice and enjoy all those details. Maybe i do that next summer. When no one is nearby.
I'm in search of fame and fortune. All jokes aside, I have had zero direction since starting this channel over 3 years ago. I think I began my quest into comp rigs about this time last year after getting more than frustrated with an Injora chassis build. Sometime around December is when I first of Hardpark. So, at the same time is when I decided to commit to build a 24 scale MOA. THEN, sometime earlier this year, is when I came across the Albin 24 chassis. 2 of a kind and no others exist. They are far better than the dementor. The geometry sets it apart. Then there's NW Chassis Works which, honestly, also outperforms the Hard Park. I honestly got a little bent at all the Hard Park fanboi-dom that sprung up over the Summer. Like, Beatlemania kind of stuff with screaming teenagers waving HP banners at every post made. It was a HUGE turn off. So, in my quest to build a comp truck that has similar capability, that wasn't surrounded by an overzealous cheerleading squad, I went with the OGRC chassis because of the 8° angled skid. I discovered that it has equal performance to the Hard Park but not quite as good as the ALBN24 rigs. So, then, upon realizing that I was going to struggle to get bumpers for the X-Factor body on an OGRC chassis, I did what any impulse buyer in this hobby would do: ordered another chassis! That said, I love the LGRP rig because it's all metal. Or, will be when I'm totally done. Shock towers and supports are coming Monday. The rest will fall into place when it's available. I love that truck. It's most definitely now my favorite in the 24 fleet. I even looked at it the other day and was saying to myself that I could easily just stop here with this one. (But I have to rebuild the OGRC just because) What am I looking for? Durability. Reliability. Rigs that run like they're supposed to and don't break on a rollover. I sunk over $700 into my Hard Park rig and it got blown out of the water when Chassis #1 of the ALBN24 arrived. Since then, nothing comes close. I've actually been talking to Nick behind the scenes about another design. He also has a 4WS rig he's just finishing up with a newly designed chassis. I'm a performance weirdo that doesn't like to waste time on gimmicks when I can see from a mile away they won't work. And I can't stand 3D printed stuff. For real, it's just future landfill. Metal parts on CF or don't even mess. Especially in a business where stuff gets broken every day.
@@VermontScaleCustoms I feel the same about printed parts, especially skids, apart from breaking while driving, hitting something the material is so soft that when you maybe assemble the rig 3 times the threads are worn no matter how careful you are, and i am in europe so ordering another costs shipping, customs, and half of the time everything is out of stock so i really hesitated to buy the cheatcode or Hardpark (and ordered a spare skid). The 3D printed chassis i have i printed myself, i have access to a printer at work so i can print a couple of spare parts for free, thats different. But paying serious money for a chassis that has printed parts. I think they should include sth. like 5 spares of critical parts. What if sth. breaks two or three years from now, i love to keep and use stuff for longer.
Stil not happy - how do you measure performance, do you have a reference track to see how or if they go over it or like some people measure at how many degrees it unloads or flips, uphill or sidehill. I just returned from another run with my cheapo rig at my new outdoor spot and realized that its much more capable than i thought and i don't care if it can do 45 or 57 degrees, also in this setting the purple injora motor is perfectly fine, would not care about FOC working itself through the leaves and moss and over roots.
Sometimes I feel performance is circumstantial and much of the effort required to drive well is just all in our heads and how well we respond. Am I paying attention to what the car is doing?! Experience, moves, counter moves, balance, a lot of it becomes intuitive. At which point, I see things before they happen and counter them before they do - or, as they're happening - to get the next move set in place. I've run the same course with a stock Mini-Z 4Runner all while wondering if a $700 Dementor was going to crest the highest point of the same indoor course. That said, just yesterday, I tried to run a WPL rig on the same course I ran all my 24 scale stuff and could get nowhere on it. I have multiple brushless setups and as many brushed to match in 24th scale. I prefer the brushed for the scale builds and brushless for the performance based stuff. I like how slow things move and being able to decide what to do long before they happen. I find sometimes that brushed can lack the finesse I like to see. Brushed on 3s is nice but it has way too much top end for my tastes. But brushless on 3s is as smooth as anyone could ever imagine. With 2s, it's nice, you get the same performance but without the top end snap that 3s has. I have one of those purple Injoras and need to get the rig built back up so I can check it out. See, part of my problem is that now that I have so much of this stuff sitting around, I can kind of build rigs out of nothing and just check stuff out. It's as much a curse as it is a show of how much stuff I can horde! LOL
Hello,
Great video, very interesting!👍
Greetings Seven🖖
Thank you for watching, Seven! Always a pleasure.🖖😎
Double check your links and rod-ends (Every turn matters!). Because when building the extension to my DasHex chassis, I had both sides screwed together side-by-side. The screw-holes matched perfectly!
Oh, no, these holes are visibly misaligned. It sucks. It was that way when I got it and never realized until not long ago. I almost want to cut a new set of rails out of aluminum.
@@VermontScaleCustoms strange
Beautiful little crawler 🤩
Thank you! Which one?
@@VermontScaleCustoms the purple one👌
@@Fortes_RC_Adv 💜💜
Big like form me! 👍 And thank you, I've been trying to find someone willing to go into production making solid 1/24 moa axles for many years. That's good news!! 💥
Please point out, that they need to make the axles clockable, like the Rocksta or bully.
That was one of my main points. I'm also wondering about worm gear versus ring and pinion. The torque involved would be amazing. An N20, coupled straight into a worm gear with a 4:1 reduction at the motor, itself, would be unreal. I think right now, the idea is to basically build a set of Z2-like axles and see how they perform. I really just need to get off my ass and start designing a set, myself. The coupled N20 on worm gear is the way, of this I am sure. Like the current OD setup, it can still be controlled with the axle ring while maintaining all the torque. The other key will be allowing for room at the upper links. I don't see that being a problem, though.
I'm still thinking about the design of the front with servo tray. Once that hits me, it's time to start sketching that out.
@@VermontScaleCustoms High gear reduction in a tight space (more clearance + high torque) is very desirable.
But worm gears can't be back driven or in this case forward driven.. they lock in place. It's better to have the motors do the work, by setting the drag break. (Rear stronger, front less - using programmable esc's.)
You can also play with the trim settings/ dead point, which would work with the worm gears. Not sure how this would effect the esc long-term.
What you really want, is to be able to fully stop at anytime, but when extreme downhilling, to gradually keep rolling.
Why? Because, in extreme downhill situations you need full control, even if you have to stop (Break is not stop!) half way down in order to position to get the next gate (Stop is not break! ..lol).
N20 motors are far more durable than I ever expected. But I doubt, the tiny gear can handle real heavy duty crawling action.
@@VermontScaleCustoms How are you going to manufacture to needed hardware?
I have a question, "asking for a friend": What are you looking for? The Dementor does incredible climbs, then you showed your new favourite that OGRC chassis, then tore it all apart for the LGRP, they are all going up those rocks quite fine. I recently found a very cool outdoor spot and was running for the first time really on a place like that, had a 3D printed Echo chassis with Injora parts with me and was surprised that this ran very fine and thought now what do i need the Cheat Code and Mofo Chassis (and that 500 bucks Hardpark order soon coming) for - also - i love to watch those videos and watch my brushless rig in the living room move in FOC mode, sqeezing tires in slow motion - but outside standing some (short) distance from it i don't even see those details, brushed motor is fine. I would have to sit or lay on the ground near that rock to notice and enjoy all those details. Maybe i do that next summer. When no one is nearby.
I'm in search of fame and fortune. All jokes aside, I have had zero direction since starting this channel over 3 years ago. I think I began my quest into comp rigs about this time last year after getting more than frustrated with an Injora chassis build. Sometime around December is when I first of Hardpark. So, at the same time is when I decided to commit to build a 24 scale MOA.
THEN, sometime earlier this year, is when I came across the Albin 24 chassis. 2 of a kind and no others exist. They are far better than the dementor. The geometry sets it apart. Then there's NW Chassis Works which, honestly, also outperforms the Hard Park. I honestly got a little bent at all the Hard Park fanboi-dom that sprung up over the Summer. Like, Beatlemania kind of stuff with screaming teenagers waving HP banners at every post made. It was a HUGE turn off.
So, in my quest to build a comp truck that has similar capability, that wasn't surrounded by an overzealous cheerleading squad, I went with the OGRC chassis because of the 8° angled skid. I discovered that it has equal performance to the Hard Park but not quite as good as the ALBN24 rigs.
So, then, upon realizing that I was going to struggle to get bumpers for the X-Factor body on an OGRC chassis, I did what any impulse buyer in this hobby would do: ordered another chassis!
That said, I love the LGRP rig because it's all metal. Or, will be when I'm totally done. Shock towers and supports are coming Monday. The rest will fall into place when it's available. I love that truck. It's most definitely now my favorite in the 24 fleet. I even looked at it the other day and was saying to myself that I could easily just stop here with this one. (But I have to rebuild the OGRC just because)
What am I looking for? Durability. Reliability. Rigs that run like they're supposed to and don't break on a rollover. I sunk over $700 into my Hard Park rig and it got blown out of the water when Chassis #1 of the ALBN24 arrived. Since then, nothing comes close. I've actually been talking to Nick behind the scenes about another design. He also has a 4WS rig he's just finishing up with a newly designed chassis. I'm a performance weirdo that doesn't like to waste time on gimmicks when I can see from a mile away they won't work. And I can't stand 3D printed stuff. For real, it's just future landfill. Metal parts on CF or don't even mess. Especially in a business where stuff gets broken every day.
@@VermontScaleCustoms I feel the same about printed parts, especially skids, apart from breaking while driving, hitting something the material is so soft that when you maybe assemble the rig 3 times the threads are worn no matter how careful you are, and i am in europe so ordering another costs shipping, customs, and half of the time everything is out of stock so i really hesitated to buy the cheatcode or Hardpark (and ordered a spare skid). The 3D printed chassis i have i printed myself, i have access to a printer at work so i can print a couple of spare parts for free, thats different. But paying serious money for a chassis that has printed parts. I think they should include sth. like 5 spares of critical parts. What if sth. breaks two or three years from now, i love to keep and use stuff for longer.
Stil not happy - how do you measure performance, do you have a reference track to see how or if they go over it or like some people measure at how many degrees it unloads or flips, uphill or sidehill. I just returned from another run with my cheapo rig at my new outdoor spot and realized that its much more capable than i thought and i don't care if it can do 45 or 57 degrees, also in this setting the purple injora motor is perfectly fine, would not care about FOC working itself through the leaves and moss and over roots.
Sometimes I feel performance is circumstantial and much of the effort required to drive well is just all in our heads and how well we respond. Am I paying attention to what the car is doing?! Experience, moves, counter moves, balance, a lot of it becomes intuitive. At which point, I see things before they happen and counter them before they do - or, as they're happening - to get the next move set in place.
I've run the same course with a stock Mini-Z 4Runner all while wondering if a $700 Dementor was going to crest the highest point of the same indoor course. That said, just yesterday, I tried to run a WPL rig on the same course I ran all my 24 scale stuff and could get nowhere on it. I have multiple brushless setups and as many brushed to match in 24th scale. I prefer the brushed for the scale builds and brushless for the performance based stuff. I like how slow things move and being able to decide what to do long before they happen. I find sometimes that brushed can lack the finesse I like to see. Brushed on 3s is nice but it has way too much top end for my tastes. But brushless on 3s is as smooth as anyone could ever imagine. With 2s, it's nice, you get the same performance but without the top end snap that 3s has.
I have one of those purple Injoras and need to get the rig built back up so I can check it out. See, part of my problem is that now that I have so much of this stuff sitting around, I can kind of build rigs out of nothing and just check stuff out. It's as much a curse as it is a show of how much stuff I can horde! LOL