MIG Welding Cast Iron Repair
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2021
- MIG Welding Cast Iron Repair. We purchased a cast iron pan and recorded how much weight it took to break the handle off. From there we prepped the cast iron then welded it using various processes including a nickel welding rod, flux core wire and now solid MIG wire with a shielding gas. If you have a piece of broken cast iron that needs to be welded and you want to know how strong it will be after you weld it with solid wire and a shielding gas, now you will know. This is a DIY do it yourself repair method. WAIT UNTIL YOU SEE THE RESULTS!
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I’ve been following these videos on the cast iron pan and I did some flux-corded welding of my own with a decorative cast iron mail box that accidently got dropped and broke in half. Anyway, I was able to put it together, but like you said, it is difficult to make a nice weld on cast iron. Good exercise for me in welding. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome Ricardo! This is why I share these videos. Good job on the repair!
Brandon, when my steel nut to cast iron weld attempt failed I dug through my saved links folders for this video. My first viewing was probably back when you posted the video two years ago.Here's what happened .... I have and old 3" Skinner, 3 jaw scroll chuck purchased at a flea market. One of my lathes is a Jet Midi with a 1"x 8TPI spindle nose. With the 3/16" thick, cast iron back plate removed, I prepped the surface. The nut is a tough alloy that I beveled on my South Bend. My HitBox 200 was set to 85A @ 18V / EP for .035" sold wire. I preheated the back plate and welded short weaves, while preheating before each weld. When finished I brought the plate's temp down slowly by heat gunning and peening in cycles.
I then chucked it on my SB-H10 and began turning down the ugly welds. Turning welds down is hard on tooling! That hard and tough nut wasn't much easier but I was nearing my final pass. Then it happened! The nut separated from the back plate! When examining the evidence I noticed two things. There was virtually no heat discoloration on the chuck side of the back plate. So I knew my penetration was very poor. The previously welded side looked like the surface of the moon. It now has shallow craters. The cast iron material from those craters are stuck to the alloy nut. This material looks about the same as when machining cast iron. IE powder!
The nut, on the other hand shows no sign of poor penetration. It's a thick nut, so I guess it's more accurate to say the welds seem solidly fused to the nut. Trying to break off the filler material from the nut proved damn near impossible to do without damaging the nut while gripped in a bench vice. Vice grips and hammer had their work cut out for them.
In the end I doubt I'll try welding it again. I'm either going to weld the nut to steel plate or use the cast iron back plate with brazing rod. Young man, this old dog is simply not near as good as you are !
Wakodahatchee Chris
Wow. Just wow. Cool stuff bro. Thanks for doing a welding video. Like it when you build stuff and test stuff. Don’t let haters get at you.
Thanks Adam! No worries about the haters...it comes with the territory
Very informative video. I’m retired aircraft mechanic but always wanted to learn how to weld. Will definitely follow this channel and look below at the equipment you recommend. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and stay safe and well Artie 🇺🇸
Thanks Artie! I bet being an aircraft mechanic is a pretty cool job! I'm sure it takes a lot of attention to detail...much like welding.
Did you ever start??
Thank you so much! I mig welded my antique corn shucker back together, and it looks like it's gonna hold just fine. We will be using it when we grow and shuck corn this year 😊
AWESOME! Please report back and let me know how it held up!
Thanks for sharing with us Brandon, interesting job. Fred 👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks Fred! I was shocked by the results!
👍😎 I always used nickel rod to weld cast iron, Very useful video Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! 😊
Great Video Bran...Thank you for the info.
Thanks for your support! Much appreciated! 👍
I'm really impressed with the plastic handles on the tote that you're adding the weight to ! It seems like I break one of those off every time I pick up a tote lol
Rubbermaid for the win!
After watching your video I welded the cast iron steering arm for my tractor($400 part). I'm pretty confident it will hold up. Thanks!
Keep me posted. A lot of the older cast iron tractor parts were really good iron and weld really nice. I had a farmer tell me once he MIG welded his bropken tractor front axle with sucess.
Still going strong! Thanks again for the helpful tips!
Right on!!!
That table got you my subscription.
Thanks man I appreciate your support! 🙏
It was good to see the pan again.
Thanks buddy! 👍
It may well be a crude testing method but it is very interesting! Great video young man!
Thank you!
My husband just fixed one of our cast iron pans thanks to this video!! He loves your channel! Do you have any course or guides I can buy? Would make an amazing father's day gift for him!!
That is awesome! Unfortunately I don't have any guides. I do however have a playlist geared towards beginner welders and most of the videos in that playlist have lots of information contained in them. He's a lucky guy to have a wife that supports his hobbies!
Watching your cast iron welding video helped me fix my cast iron vise I learn so much from your videos my favourite channel
Thanks Steve! I appreciate your support!
I've got a tip for you, don't look directly at the sun
@@BrandonLund I got another tip for ya to “don’t eat yellow snow” lol
Hahaha very true! 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you for this video. I had an idea with iron intake manifolds. This will help me make the idea into reality.
Glad I could help! There is another episode coming out this week (Friday) with simular testing and repair.
IMHO New or from the oven E7018 stick electrode will beat ALL with the exception of matching or slightly beat the MIG. Peening the weld after the RED heat is gone does nothing but make noise...peening is to stretch the deposit out [forging it out while Red hot] before it cools and contracts to prevent cracking. Thanks for posting your results and a great look into repairing cast iron.
Good point. It's one of the reasons why I use a chipping hammer vs a ball pein...although it's not always still bright red, it's hot enough that the small surface area of the chipping hammer is able elongate the deposited metal into the joint.
@@BrandonLund 👍👍👍😎
6010 base then 7018
I haven't had very good luck when experimenting with 6010/6011. 7018 I have though
Not a welder but find this super interesting. May now wanna take it up!
Thanks Hector. You can get into it for pretty cheap and it's a lot of fun....plus there is always someone that needs something welded, so you can make some side money too.
Great video Brandon. That poor pan has had a hard life 🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣 it sure has Basil! Thanks for watching buddy!
@@BrandonLund 👍🏻👍🏻
Interesting indeed 💯💪
Thanks Gary!
Brandon very interesting... Peening doesn't stretch the parent metal. It's stretches the weld to the parent metal to reduce the stress on the cast. I've done this very thing on cast but with the aid of a propane torch for pre and post heat and some hot sand. I do know that wasn't what you were doing here and I'm glad you went through this process. That peening and short weld were key to the weldments success. Again, nice job
Did I say it elongates the parent metal? I'm gonna have to go back through the video. I certainly hope not
Brandon, find "EXERGON" in Texas (who has since sold out) to another company. They made a special rod and also a mig wire, You needed to preheat to and hold 450 to 600 degrees, (use heat sticks or an infrared thermal imager/heat gun. Follow the process and it will be bullet proof. Preheat and flame cooling is critical, then wrap the project in asbestos and sand for 24 to 36 hours. The other option is weld it in a home made forge. Your cast Iron repair will still be holding for your grand kids and their families. hang in there.
I'll have to see if I can find some. It would be nice to test on it.
Another episode of JUNKA on the books that was cool but I would be using a cherry picker to lift that tote on to the scale. You got to love that tote ,stay safe. TANK
Thanks buddy! Yah I hear ya, my body doesn't like doing those things as it did when I was younger lol
What matters is that it is possible to fix. Thank you.
Spot on! 💯 @Guillermo Nieri
Great Video! I am working on restoring an old vise and you have convince me to buy Silicon Bronze for my mig. Can I ask one question? I have a piece that I need to braze that is about an inch. Will the SB suck into the piece like it would if I did it with flux and a rod? Can I put Flux on the part when I'm mig welding to get it to suck in? Thank You in advance.
In my experience it's not really going to suck in like a solder joint but I know exactly what your saying. If you can, I would Vee out the area to get full penetration, which is what it sounds like you are trying to do, then just make multiple passes. Your going to love working with silicon bronze. It's really great stuff. Not cheap but it's awesome.
How would silver solder work as a repair in this instance? I have been told it has a high tortional value and would put less heat into the cast to lessen thermal shock both in the joining and in cool down.
I think it would work good but now you have me curious to check it out 😀
I enjoyed this video bc I’ve never seen cast iron cold welded. I only pre heat it because that’s what everyone says to do.
I still try think welding it hot is the best but I wanted to see what happened in a worst case scenario.
Great video. Many thanks. Which solid wire ( SG2 or SG3 ) and how many volts you end up using there ?🙏🙏
Thanks man! I wish I could remember. I've got so many videos now they all tend to run together. I'm at the point where I come up with an idea for a video to find out I've already done one about it LOL Sorry brother.
If you can prevent cracking from thermal expansion and contraction, the less heat input to get full weld penetration is going to give you the strongest weld. This is because there's less disruption to the parent material properties.
👍
I will remember when i buy my next Tbone steak,anyway,nice welding experiment,Greetz from Belguim
Thanks 👍
Weld it up again using the heat and cool method
I've done just about everything you can do with cast, including that. I've attached a link with all sorts of information ua-cam.com/play/PLfbf78fMz9VpweFv4IqUfrrNV6Vvro7Cd.html
Once welded cast iron Chevy engine block stress cracks inside the valley with
6013 rod. I had to heat with a torch as much as I could and weld before all the heat sucked away. It worked out okay.
I wasn't adept at cast iron but I knew I at least had to heat it up.
Thats pretty sweet! Determination will get you far a lot of times. Nice repair!
@@BrandonLund I was limited in my knowledge of cast welding at the time. I just used what I knew for my best chances at any kind of success.
Hi Brandon your videos or fantastic I have been practicing welding on 1/8"mild steel tubing with 3/32 7014 at 90-95 amps and doing a fair job. The machine is a Amico inverter on 220v and DCEP . I'm building a truck camper and would like to make a steel frame out of 1x1 14ga square tube what would be the amps I should try to weld that thin of tube and would 7014 burn at a lower amperage say around 50-60 amps??What would you recommend ??? Thank you for your time and be safe.
I would start around 80 amps. Here is a handy calculator to help you with amperage settings. I use it also. Thanks for watching and commenting! www.millerwelds.com/resources/weld-setting-calculators/stick-welding-calculator
I have a old delta table saw that is in excellent condition except for the broken trunnion - the motor mount. I’m pretty sure it’s cast iron. The part is impossible to find, but this video gives me hope that a welding shop might be able to repair it.
Right on! It's worth a shot for sure!
One that knows what they're doing.
Fellow where I work was just telling me his days of yesteryear working at a repair shop when he didn't know much and how they still had him going out to do repairs when he wasn't sure how to do it.
Hi brandon
Try to use inershield with 75/25 gas
I use that technique long time ago with no complains i want to see your results👍
Great suggestion I'll check it out!
Awesome video and test! I’m getting ready to weld cast steel. 1.5” piece of farm implement. The shank off a plow. Any tips? Amps?
Preheat it and weld it just like any other piece of steel. 6010/6011 would be a great choice for a root pass then cap it with 7018 and you should be good to go 👍
@@BrandonLund how about the amps? 70ish for root and 115-125 for hot pass? Planned on cooling down in sand. This is the first for cast steel. It's off a chissel plow for fields
I would run 1/8" and start both around 90 amps and see how it looks if your using a preheat. Unless it's some special steel, you shouldn't need sand either. But it certainly won't hurt just in case it's cast iron. Some old tractor parts were cast iron.
@@BrandonLund it is cast steel. We did the grind test.
If the weld is failing (in part) because the cast iron has become hardened, would it be possible to anneal the pan (heat to critical temp and then slowly cool in vermiculite) after welding and cleanup to get back it's flexibility? I'm just a beginner and really appreciate your content! Thanks.
Thats a good question @Jeff Odegard and I don't have the answer. I think once the grain structure has be reformed than it's in the state for the duration. I will look further into this and reply if this should change. Great question and thank you!
@@BrandonLund I know in knife-making that you use the annealing, normalizing, hardening and tempering process to rearrange and change the grain structure and remove internal stresses from the metal. I just don't know that much about cast-iron.
What about welding the cast iron that must sustain the high pressure - must not create porous structure. Say how to weld a hydraulic jack base ?
Good point, I have a heavy duty vice to repair, that’s why I clicked on this vid and got a frying pan instead😆
@@IndianaDoug casting vice is somehow easier to weld though still requires skills, experience and understanding how. Slow cooling , cast iron welding rods ...
I would very much be interested in seeing more tests done on this topic. One with 100% CO2, 100% Argon, one Dual shielded and so on.
Also, post-weld normalization and annealing of the complete repaired item should increase strength around the weld as we are dealing with a somewhat hardening high carbon material. Of course this is undesirable for some casting alloys as the factory heat treatment of the item will be lost.
Carbon migration from the cast iron to the lower carbon weld bead will also take place at the higher temperatures. I cannot say whether or not this is desirable with cast iron welding. It may be good that the metals become more similar at the joint, however the migration may become too local and form weak high and low carbon zones. Cooling has to be slow due to differing expansion rates.
I definately will be done a lot more. I've probably done more cast iron testing than anyone on UA-cam and I still have more tests I want to try. Thanks for your commment and your support. It's much appreciated!
Er-70s-6 with c25?
I am really curious at the type of wire!!
It is...its Mathesons own in-house brand. Awesome stuff!
Fronius!!? This guy is SERIOUS about his welding!
@MAD8RAD It's a serious investment but I doubt I will ever need another...thats how I sold the idea to my wife anyways lol.. honestly though, I wanted the best multi-process welder I could buy and after researching for quite a while I settled with Fronius. It wasn't just about the welder, I was also concerned with service and future upgrades and availability of parts.
I'm guessing the weld could be cleaned up with a flap disk?
For sure 👍
What kind of welding rod for Tecumseh small engine block
@Steve Lee I would go with a nickle rod. Easily found at tractor supply and they run really nice.
@@BrandonLund thanks
brass/bronze based brazing (the traditonal old school ) next please
I'm pretty good at brazing. It's one of the 1st processes I learned on. I'll be doing that real soon.
Can you weld or repair a cast suspension part on a car? Is it made of cast iron or cast steel?
Suspension parts should probably be replaced vs repairing
Suspension parts should probably be replaced vs repairing
Have you tried stainless wire for welding cast iron? I am thinking it would be very interesting to do a very similar repair to what you just did with all else being equal, only changing the wire to 308 stainless. Another interesting test would be using 308 stainless but with pre and post heating. I mention this because I have a suspicion the stainless might actually work well with the cast iron. Then another curiosity would be with ductile or nodular iron.
I know a bunnch of people have had good luck but I am not one of them. I've tried 308. 309 and 316 and they have all failed. The absolute BEST repair for cast iron I have found to date is MIG brazing silicon bronze.
@@BrandonLund
Thanks for that. I just found that video so I'll check it out.
Have you tried welding nodular/ductile iron?
I have. I find it's a bit easier than gray cast which is what these are here in the video
Can you try silicone bronze and see how that holds up
Absolutely! That is on my list to try. Ive been very ccurious too! @Hank Burton
Thanks man have a great day and looking forward to the vid
fronius makes a good welder..$$$ I'm using a green Unlimited 200 from Harbor freight ..for what i do with it works great vary portable..just me 2 cents..
I totally agree and ive proven you can have just as much fun with a budget welder as yoy can with an expensive one. You might just not have some of the fancy festures.
Brandon, very insightful and thoughtful analysis of cast iron repair. What would have the results been had you used a pre-heat and silicon bronze wire to mig braze?
I'm not sure but we will find out in an upcoming episode. Thanks!
How can I be sure a garden bench leg end is just simply just cast iron and not some other metal has been introduced into it , I have 1 side that broke in two pieces and wanted it repaired, but I'm getting hit or miss answers that the weld including a muggy weld won't hold up to weight of two people sitting on the bench because the leg (or side) of the bench was molten cast iron was poured into a one piece mold when it was made and the integrity (strength) has been lost
@Just Saying I've actually repaired a broken off cast iron park bench leg. If you check out my cast iron welding playlist I think it's the 1st video in that series. I've also included a link here on how to determine if it's cast iron or something else ua-cam.com/video/2NI5-EMEkJU/v-deo.html As far as it being a poured casting, it most likely is. Your broken leg is likely grey cast iron and in that case it's weldable.
ua-cam.com/video/-8ct6Awo_2I/v-deo.html yes this is exactly what happen to us, with almost exactly the same piece
Many years ago, but an observation had you welded stitch welds to boyh sides would had been way stronger.
I've actually tested that theory, welding both sides compared to just welding one side ua-cam.com/video/qNHAteo-qwg/v-deo.htmlsi=1d7IM5iJo0ZG3rF4
Brandon, I need to correct you on something….Fronius is NOT the Cadillac of welders….it is the ROLLS ROYCE crossed with a FERRARI! 😁😁😁🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍
😁 thanks man!😁😁😁 👍
you think that 2200c is good? you should see what my TPS 320i can do lol
Its an impressive unit for sure! 👍
I'd like to see it with the pre heating
In my experience the preheating doesn't add strength it just lessens the chance of it cracking while you are welding it.
I have 1915 C.S. “steel alloy bell with a broken head bolt that hold the 120 lb bell to the yoke with a clevis welded on it …. Steel bolt to cast iron clevis????
AND a CRACKED cast iron #2 C.S. Bell….
C.S. Bell company had super secret metals called “Crystal Metal” and “Steel Alloy”- - - cast metal-iron… amazing super secret stuff….right….
The drilling and filing methods will come in handy….
I only have a mig welder and some torches…. Life is good.
Are you going to try to repair it using MIG?
@@BrandonLund Haven’t decided.
I’m use to mig without gas but money is my biggest problem along with finding what I need. The only gas I have is argon which I’ve never used, an acetylene/ oxygen torch and small propane torch.
I’ve welded with flux core for years as needed and setting up gas was never a high enough priority.
Today I finally found some nickel 99 and 55 and cast iron brazing rods @ 20 miles away BUT couldn’t buy them because of money.
Thinking of brazing with fluxed cast iron rods but I’ve never done it. The 99 is my next option but I’d still have to braze as I don’t have stick or tig welders. I have yet to find anything for my mig close by at all or on the net that I can afford.
I got covid in January and used up all my cash. Just now getting back close to normal health wise.
Lucky for me my vise broke yesterday so I can practice whatever I choose (That’s the kind of luck I’ve had lately so I’ll take what I can get.)
I have so much that’s more important to catch up on but this is more interesting so for now I’m learning as much as I can.
Well I'm glad your on the mend. I got covid too. I struggled getting back to normal. I went to see an acupuncturist. Best decision I could have made. I'm a big fan of oxyfuel welding but it's a lot of work. Speedy recovery!
Speaking of cast iron i recently found out that the predator 212cc engine i got has a cast iron fly wheel and they can be pretty dangerous at high rpm. I bought a billet flywheel made from aluminum im still waiting for. Got me thinking why is cast iron so fragile yet so strong vs aluminum wich is more fragile yet stronger at high rpm.
Cast iron is actually very strong, it just doesn't take shocks very well
@@BrandonLund interesting 🤔 what makes aluminum better for a fly wheel than cast iron wouldn't aluminum be way softer and more prone to deformity at high rpm?
This is neat. Learning about different metals 😁
Aluminum will allow it to rev much quicker...much less mass to rotate.
Thanks man!
Brazing?
I have a mig brazing with silicon bronze video that will blow you away. It did me
Imagine how strong it would be then if you would have done everything correctly. Good stuff
"Correctly" is a relative term. What does it matter what process was used as long as the repair was sucessful.
You’d better do a practical test with the pan Bran.
BACON & EGGS FOR EVERYONE!!!
🤣🤣🤣
👏👏👏 👋👋👋
I agree! I'm hungry just thinking about it! Extra bacon too! 🥓
Don’t forget the beans!
Absolutely!!! I wish you were closer because I would love to try some of your recipes. I love beans and hot dogs.
🤣🤣🤣
Beans, loads of garlic, spring onion or shallot, cream, parsley or fav herb, very anti social but beautiful
You can replace the cream with a 3 cheese sauce to bulk it, pecorino is a must, 🤣🤣🤣.
I’m only new to the beans arena other than canned stuff, got a lot to learn.
The above is actually a mix we used with pasta, and without the cream or sauce, but it really works with the beans. Suppose to be served as a side, hot, but (for me) it works all ways cold as well.
I’m also lucky here, of the 8 in our household, only the boss & I eat beans, 😂😂😂.
That sounds AWESOME especially with the cheese sauce! Sounds like you know your way around the kitchen! Rarely if ever do i reheat food. I eat most of my leftovers cold. Everyone in the house thinks I'm ridiculous lol
In order to properly peen cast iron, you need to do more than just tapping it! Otherwise thanks for the video, saves a fella lots of time doing his own experiments. With the mig, I wonder if you're using er-70s-6
Wire
Tapping it won't work. It needs to be peined until it stops glowing. I use a chipping hammer because it has a smaller surface area which elongates the metal better than a peining hammer in my opinion.. Unfortunately if I just let the video run to see every intricate detail the video would be 2 hours long.
Big difference in welding a cast iron frying pan and repairing a cast iron flywheel.
I've never tried repairing a cast iron flywheel but I would assume you would prep the joint, preheat, weld then post heat / cool down.
Now you have to go back and weld both sides with flux core to get a true weight of what it will hold....
@Duane Henicke already ahead of you lol ua-cam.com/video/qNHAteo-qwg/v-deo.html
Lol. Guards off tools makes me a novice!? . 🤣. Still a great video. It's not a lathe....so ...take guards off.
Thanks man! Yah I'm not saying people that take off their guards ARE novices, it just makes them look that way. People that fabricate everyday for a living aren't allowed to remove guards, so if they can do it then people who occasionally fabricate shouldn't have a reason to remove them.
Still heaps strong enough to cook a steak. 😂😂
I agree :)
I've got a broken cast iron exhaust manifold I have to fix like RIGHT NOW! like literally, I have to weld it back together, put it on the motor and put the motor back in. There isn't a bunch of time and I'm not seeing a video specific enough. Maybe you could get me to quick tips. I'm using a mig, Argon/co2...just a regular mig as if I was welding anything else. I've done this once before on a manifold that just had a crack in it. This has an ear busted off. The weld in the crack probably stopped the crack. The broken off ear, it's part of the mounting structure of the manifold. The car is a 62 Plymouth. There's like no other manifold you're going to get like TODAY. lol I'm going to weld it because I'm screwed and I need to get the car back together for a car show. HELP!
Hopefully your repair worked!
@@BrandonLund You do? I asked for help. I needed tips, warm it, don't warm it, as I pointed out what was broken was the mounting hole so grinding it to bare clean metal only works if you can fill it in with the welder...and I'm using a mig. So what tips can you suggest? Other than "good luck, I hope it works" LOL
@wayne thomas you made it very clear and mentioned several times in your message that you were doing it "right now literally". I didn't see your message until the following day so I was trying to be supportive by saying I hope your repair went well. Either way, try to preheat it if you can. Short beads peining after each weld. Wrap in a fiberglass welding blanket for cool down if you have one.
@@BrandonLund That's what I figured, that you hadn't seen it until the next day but I actually didn't do it yet because I want to hear if anyone could help out with suggestions first before I ruing what, for all intents and purposes, is irreplaceable. I actually found another one but it's not identical, the mounting is but where it comes out and connects to the exhaust, isn't. And, in this case, the manifold I found directs the exhaust right into the torsion bar so it's not a simple matter of modifying the existing exhaust. it literally won't work on this car. It'll work on this motor in another car, but it not this car.
But thank you for re replying and adding a couple of tips. I really wasn't sure what to do other than just cross my fingers and weld it.
Thanks man! If you get stuck feel free to message me
I think that repair was fine. Bacon and a few eggs over easy weigh a lot less than that scrap metal.
Right on!
You didn't link to either of those videos LOL I'm not complaining, so please don't take it that way. But it would have been informative and interesting to see you welding the cast-iron with flux cored wire
I just checked. It's there. I didn't link the individual videos but I linked the entire cast iron series playlist which has all the videos listed by process and filler metal. If you are watching it on a TV i dont think the links show up like on a mobile device. Here is the playlist ua-cam.com/video/njcL2eVR5FQ/v-deo.html
@@BrandonLund thank you very much. No I was watching it on my phone. Greatly appreciated and good content. Thank you
Thanks man I appreciate your support! 👍🙏
In a perfect world don't take ur guards off.... unfortunately sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures
I agree 👍 @Ace taste
Seems you're not doing the math for the length of the handle. I know it's only 5 or 6 inches but that looks like a lever to me. It would change the numbers. You're going why the raw weight🤷♂️
As long as I'm measuring it in the same place every time, the results will be consistent. Yes it's a lever, so the number that I arrived at works out to be less than it's actual breaking strength, but as long as the measuring is done the same way every time, it wont matter.
Very Good!... 144 🐄🦉🏴☠✝
Thanks man! @Carl Thornton Ok I got to ask, what do the numbers reprepresent?
Tum Krishna Reddy
You bet! 😁
I don't think it's cast iron.
Probably not...you should start a class action lawsuit for false advertising 😏
Let's go Brandon!
🤣🤣🤣 u know it! 😁👍
Dawg com on you killin.me .you can not weld anything cast take a general metallurgy class.. I got 20ys matching and production knowledge..your going to have a really bad 2 yrs
@Kris Austin 20 years of experience and no one has ever told you that cast iron can be welded? I call BS. Cast iron has been successfully repaired using numerous processes and fillers since its creation. A simple Google search would confirm this - ASTM specifications and procedures for cast Iron welding. I suspect you are trolling and in that case, well played 👍
@@BrandonLund pick up a HAZmat book..it's hazardous materials I know for a fact it's in there...all say is your not certified or licensed so your not a liberty to say you know anything.
@Kris Austin you are literally making a fool of yourself. Go troll elsewhere. If you think I'm wrong then just go away knowing that you were right. See ya