Restoring a Vintage Rusty $1 Axe Head With a Unique Finish Via Slow Rust Bluing | Restoration
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- Опубліковано 29 тра 2024
- I rescued this old, rusty axe head at a barn sale for $1 in rural Ohio, USA. It weighed about 3.5 lbs and the only marking was a stamped '9' on one face of the axe. After some research, my best guess is this an XLCR single bit axe produced by the W. Bingham Company in Cleveland, Ohio sometime between the 1920's and 1950's.
This was my first axe restoration and even after weeks of research it still turned out to be quite the challenge. I learned a lot along the way and there are several things I would do differently next time. The electrolysis setup actually needed fewer anodes so the amperage could be higher. I was only pulling about 2 mA when ideally it should be closer to 200 mA. (For my current electrolysis setup, watch this video: • Infinite Rust Removal?... ). I removed some of the rebar and the amperage drastically improved. My slow rust bluing technique needs refinement if I want to obtain a completely black finish on future projects. Buy a bench top vise (achieved). I would buy a more premium axe handle instead of one from a big box hardware store, or build one from hickory stock so it fits the axe head better. And finally, I would spend more time rasping the handle to better seat on the axe head so less hammering was required.
Timestamps:
0:00-0:49 Overview
0:50-2:11 Initial cleaning
2:12-3:49 Rust removal via electrolysis
3:50-8:15 Grinding and sanding
8:16-13:14 Slow Rust Bluing the axe head
13:15-16:38 Rasping, sanding, and attaching the handle
16:39-18:03 Sharpening
18:04-18:25 Boiled linseed finish on handle
18:26-19:01 Before/After
19:02-19:51 Testing
19:52-19:58 Thanks and please consider subscribing!
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Some of the tools and equipment I used in this video:
(I may receive a portion of the sale of these items, but they do not cost you any extra. These are a great way to support my channel without any increased cost to you!)
Wire brush set: amzn.to/3o6jO74
Camera: amzn.to/3EbiQfo
Angle Grinder: amzn.to/3loMFSp
Flap disc sandpaper for angle grinder: amzn.to/3dkKTNX
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Thanks for watching and if you enjoyed the video please consider subscribing.
Social Media:
Instagram: @catalyst_restorations
#axe #restoration #toolrestoration
Con-Air WAS awesome.
HECK YEAH IT WAS.
@@CatalystRestorations I'M COMING HOME, HUMMINGBIRD!
Great job. The sporty racing stripes makes it look like my first Fender Mustang guitar!
I've watched almost every restoration video I can find and I've never seen anything like that finish. Absolutely gorgeous!!
As someone you also watches every restoration video I can find, that means SO much to me! Thanks!
It's unconverted rust as he didn't boil it for long enough. It looks like a patina because of the oil, it will still be eating the steel underneath it.
I appreciate how much you explain/caption/annotate in these videos, makes for a very nice educational experience!
Thanks! Hope you learned something! 🤓
I was glad to see you hanging the axe head PROPERLY. There are far too many videos here on UA-cam showing how not to hang an axe head. This was a very nice restoration, and it shows how anyone can easily do this themselves. I have an old Firefighter's axe head that I (one day 🙄) hope to restore to a mirror polish.
I'd say I hung it about 80% properly, haha. Still, glad to show people how it's done!
A mirror polish is not the proper finish for an axe.Especially a firemans axe.
I wonder why everyone seems to go to the effort of scrubbing, degreasing, and electrolysis and then end up grinding the surface smooth. If you want smooth, start with the grinder. Everything before that was wasted effort. If you want to preserve the pitted nature of an old axe, brush off the dirt and start with the boil. You'll have a naturally preserved, rust blued surface without all the electrolysis and whatnot. A little cleanup of the poll and bit, touch up the blue where needed and you're done.
That being said, you've ended up with a really nice axe. Well done.
Thanks for the kind words! While I generally agree with you, most of what you see here in this video was my first serious attempt at electrolysis (this was perfect to try it on and I definitely didn't execute it perfectly in this video) combined with having not decided when I started the project if I wanted to slow rust blue or mirror finish polish the head. If I had knew there would be no maker's marks and I wanted that mirror finish, I would've started with grinding straight away! Ultimately decided on the slow rust bluing because I got tired of the sanding.
The reason that they go through all of these preliminary steps is to save money on the wear and tear of their abrasives. If you knew how much these grinding belts cost you would try and prolong them by doing as much work as possible before actually having to start the grinding process. Also grinding abrasives can be contaminated easily and end up damaging other projects. This is another reason to pre-wash before grinding. Plus it’s fun to watch too.
The iron skin of the ax has become beautiful.😍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks!!
That finish is gorgeous!
Beautiful work~
Thank you!! 😁
Hey, Thanks for a really nice video. 2 things: - Enjoyed the fact that you skipped vocals, and instead used written comments. - Loved the fact that you described in detail the steps, INCLUDING measurements both in amounts and time! carry on!
You're welcome, and thank you! When I watch videos myself I always preferred people who wrote their instructions so I could easily just pause the video whenever I needed to. I also hate hearing my recorded voice (but who doesn't?!), so that's also a factor, haha!
@@CatalystRestorationsSecond that! Some unfortunates just LOVE to hear their own voice... On a different note: Did you consider etching the ‘pitted’ section, keeping it darker to contrast the shine?
@@perjakobsen9198 You know, I did not consider that (I was fixated on getting a perfectly smooth surface at the time), but it would have added a neat twist to the final pattern! Something I'll have to take into consideration on a future axe!
Love that finish you did on the head. Very cool restoration.
You are first restorer I have seen to do the oxidizing stuff. The end result was really good. Put more such restoration video.
Thanks! I plan on doing both a tutorial video breaking down the process in detail as well as another video restoring another tool with this surface finish! Subscribe so you don't miss out! 🙂
@@CatalystRestorations I look for it thanks :-)
A lot of work in that. That was a heck of a buy for $1 and a great find! Well done and I enjoyed the video.
Thanks! This was the video that started it all for me way back in 2020!
Great job!
Great going..keep it up .👍👍👍
Hey thanks. I used this method on a hatchet. It came out great!
Glad to hear it, Josiah! I'd love to see your finished product, shoot me an email at catalystrestorations@gmail.com!
VERY NICE FINISH ON THE AXE HEAD !
Thanks Paul!!
Pretty cool idea for the blued finish. I like it.
Thanks! It's a suprise every time you do it!
Very nice, thank you!
Thank YOU Kelly!
I just used this on an old sledgehammer I was restoring, it turned out super nice and I'm going to use this technique in the future
That's great, I'm so glad to hear that! Feel free to send me some pics of the finished look, I love seeing how everyone's own attempts turn out! (catalystrestorations@gmail.com)
Lovey job 👍
Love it!!
Thanks Steve-o!
I'd heard of this process looking into protecting some steel parts, but hadn't seen it done.
The finish looks great
Thanks! Repeat it many, many times over to get a more and more durable finish!
You really blu it this time!
C O O L !!!
Very beautiful the axe
Thanks Brenton!
At first I was wondering about the finish. Now that I can see it and how it works. Great job indeed.
It does take a bit to come together, for sure! Thanks for watching.
That is a lovely axe.
Thanks, Nick! Still one of my favorite projects.
Thanks man just copied this for my axe head at home. Great finish
great job👍👍👍
Thank you!! 👍
Nice work 👍👌 looks good
Thanks!
Get used to using a cabinet scraper [card scraper your side of the pond] and save a fortune in time and sandpaper. great job !
ps. I did not want to be picky so did not add too much criticism in my comment..... I have just looked at the video information and I see you have covered a lot of my misgivings and learned from them. Good man.
Always look for ways to make the next hang better than the last and you won't go far wrong . I'll leave you with another idea to try. If you wanted to match the pitted look of an axe on the newly ground areas, try experimenting with using the axe head as the sacrificial anode in the electrolysis. this will induce rust pitting You can paint any areas you don't want further pitting to occur and strip it off after. It is pretty effective, and could be followed up with rust bluing, but keeping the pitted texture and character OG
Thanks OG!! You are 100% right about using a scraper. This was my first ever restoration video - covered a lot of ground since then! 🤗
@@CatalystRestorations check out my new edit above and perhaps give it a try on some scrap metal
@@bigoldgrizzly good idea, I'll have to try that out!
Conair got me to subscribe. Awesome job man!
You are the first person in 40,962 views to specifically mention the Conair joke, so props to you Eric!! Glad you enjoyed the vid and thanks for the sub!
Try using the edge of a knife to take the varnish off like scraping it it’s satisfying and a lot easier then sand paper it leaves a good finish too
Gonna try this on the next axe handle I've got lined up! Thanks! 👍
@@CatalystRestorations or if you have a knife with a really hard 90 degree spine you can use that to scrap it off if you get the technique it’ll work really well!
So cooooool!!
Thanks dude!
I am impressed! Beatiful job. Y ou have more patients than me.
Thanks! It's a long and tedious process but worth the final results!
I really enjoyed the effort you put into this axe and the finish is very unique, I have been looking for a more durable finish than cold bluing. How do you think it will hold up to heavy use? As well, if I wanted a more uniform finish I could just repeat the forced oxidation and steel wool? Would love your input.
A tip for removing the plasticy varnish on your handles is to make a card scraper. Take something like 1/8th inch sheet metal and grind it down to a 3x5 card with nice crisp, flat edges and will remove a lot of sanding and rasping from your life. Keep it up!
Thanks for the tip on making a card scraper Joshua! Super handy because it literally saves my hands with all that sanding and rasping!
As far as the rust bluing is concerned, in my experience it holds up reasonably well with moderate use (splitting logs for a couple hours; that's about all I use it for) but it does still slowly wear off. The chemical reaction of typical cold bluing solution gives you a thin layer (like only a few microns thick) of copper selenide on the steel surface, but has just about no effect on providing a tougher, more durable surface. Rust bluing on the other hand forms a layer of magnetite, which is considerably thicker and a much more durable material. To maximize the benefit of the rust bluing process I'd recommend repeating the oxidation/steel wool/boiling process at least 8 times to really get the most out of it! I stopped after 2 on this axe head because it just looked so beautiful. Good luck!
Try using ferric chloride or send it out for proper bluing/black oxide
now that is a nice axe. beautiful finish, so different for a change. aaaanddd, someone who actually knows how to split wood. i am subscribed and impressed. well done!!!!
Thanks for subscribing Billie, glad you liked it!
When I was young I used to metal detect old farms and lumberjack camps. I'd sometimes find as many as 30 axe heads in one hole. I never understood why they bothered to bury them and why so many. Maybe when they wore down to a certain point they were discarded? Anyway, nice job you did on that head.
Thank you! That's really interesting Dale and I think you're spot on actually! Nowadays they'd probably be properly scrapped I'd guess.
nice
The etching is awesome.
Thanks! I'm planning to eventually make a video dedicated solely to teaching how to do the technique with some hints, tips, and tricks!
I invested in a table top sand blasting cabinet, and use glass beads. That cleans a rusty axe head in about 3 minutes.
Definitely hope to add a blasting cabinet to the workshop someday! They makes quick work of just about about anything and it's super satisfying as an added bonus!
when using belt and angle grinder to remove the pitting, whats the purpose of electrolysis on such minor corroded items?
Do this axe need new oil for rust protection?
The final surface is so great.
Thanks!
So I typically use electrolysis first for rust removal for a few reasons:
1. I like to look for maker's marks or anything that can tell me approximately when it was made. A lot of the time layers of rust cover up these marks and if you just start sanding and grinding you might sand them away. Unfortunately there wasn't much to identify on this one.
2. Electrolysis is the easiest and cleanest way to remove and contain rust particles in the workshop. With electrolysis the freed rust just sits in water and can be safely dumped down the drain. If you immediately start grinding on it when it's still all rusty you end up with rust flying everywhere and it gets an indoor shop (like mine) dirty extremely fast.
The rust blued surface here protects from corrosion pretty well on its own without oil, but over time it does wear away. Regularly oiling the surface when you're not using it will still help prevent any rust from forming.
Yeah up and down.
I have an axe just like this. First restore. How long should a flap disc last? Mine felt like it went dull after only one side? That normal?
Surprisingly my one and only flap disk of 80 grit and my only 120 grit disk are still going strong on other projects since this axe, although the very outer edges have lost most of their grit and effectiveness now. As of writing this comment I just use a basic Harbor Freight (USA hardware store) grinder (~9500 RPM) and the flap disks they sell there as well. The 80 grit ones are definitely cheaper quality, but the 120 grit disk was something like $8 and has really held up still. My advice is be patient and let the disks do the work. How fast the disks wear out come down to a few main factors: how rough the surface you are grinding is (if you hit a fresh rusty surface with 120 grit straight away you can kiss your disk goodbye), the quality of the disks, the RPMs of the grinder, and how hard you try to hog off material. Good luck with your axe!
【做得非常好】已訂閱，加油！😉😉
谢谢！
OK prove it isn't a 6 !!!!!. Nice work.
*nervous sweating intensifies*
Ok prove it isn't a 9!!! Lmao
Amazing axe head. I'm glad to learn this technique from you. 1 question, does the axe head need to be cleaned again before you place it in boiling water or cam it just go straight from drying to the pot?
Thank you! You can go straight from drying into the boiling water! After you're done boiling you can take a look at the magnetite pattern and decide if you want to stop or do another round of rusting and boiling - you can repeat it as many times as you want, the part will just get blacker and blacker.
@@CatalystRestorations Thanks for the quick response and the great video. I'd love to send you a pic of how it came out. It's amazing!!! I'll definitely be using this technique on further projects.
@@hiresliving8114 I love getting pictures from people using this technique! Send over some pics to catalystrestorations@gmail.com!!
Last question, I promise🤣
What would happen if you just sat the axe head in the solution?
@@hiresliving8114 Believe it or not, not much would happen if it's submerged in the hydrogen peroxide and salt solution. The rusting chemical reaction itself can only happen with fresh, chemically available oxygen in the surrounding air and when the part is submerged that oxygen is not available for the reaction to occur.
Beautiful finish 👏 😊
Thank you!
Whoa, neat finish! I’ve never seen it before, and I like it.
Thanks! If you haven't checked out my more recent video where I restore a masonry hammer I did the same process there too! Thanks for watching and for subscribing! 😎
It always makes me wince when I see someone carve grooves or weave a rope around the handle. The first time they have to use it for more than 5 or 6 minutes they will find out that the blisters on their hands hurts! I'm glad you left the handle just oil covered, it turned out very pretty!! I have a few axe heads that I need to take down to the metal like you did, Thanks for the Information!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and happy restoring! 😁
Got that right, smooth handles are that way for a reason 👍
Nice restoration. I'm pretty sure that's a felling axe, not ideally suited for splitting logs. You want a splitting maul for that. Cool video
Thanks! You're probably right - this head only weighed in around 3.5 lbs.
A unique finish. I wish you'd weighed the axe head at the beginning and end of the restoration to see how much rust and metal you removed in the process
Didn't weigh it on camera but definitely recorded it! It weighed 3.4 lbs before and 3.2 lbs after! Not much lost/removed overall!
@@CatalystRestorations that's a lot, thank you for the information
How do you have like gold in yours. Mine came out black and gray. Do I need to polish it more?
I *think* the golden hue is a result of the concentration of rust in the boiling water. The longer you boil the part for or the number of times you repeat the rusting and boiling process the more rust builds up in the water and probably tints the unetched areas a bit.
Great finish!!
Better than gold in my book!!
Thanks Keith!
What's the point of initial bath if you just gonna sand everything away later?
Looking for maker's marks, stamps, anything for identifying age or who made it, if possible. If you just start grinding and sanding on a super dirty surface you're probably going to sand right through it.
Amazing what abit of this and abit if that, with elbow grease can do AWESOME JOB BRO 💯%👍
THANKS BRO
So wonderful my friend, great work! 😊👍
Thanks Lila!!
Would putting the axe in boiling water destroy the heat treat?
Great question! Subjecting it to boiling water (~100C, ~212F) will not affect the axe's heat treat, as it is too low of a temperature. It depends on what a tool's application is, but in general steel is heated to at least 1650F to fully austenitize the steel, quenched in water or oil, and then tempered generally between 400-1200F (~200-650C) to achieve a hardened but tough finish. The water would need to be several hundred degrees hotter before it would possibly start to affect the heat treat to any noticeable degree.
@@CatalystRestorations It will stop the rust and if the part is going to be blued any way then you have just converted to a rust blue and if there is not a lot of scaling a soft wire brush and oil is all you need to finish
You could also make a rust protection easyer, heating the finished metal to 300C° than dipping a rag in boiled linseed oil and aplaying it a couple times, with 0000 steel wool scrubdowns a lso betreten the linseed oil touch ups. 🤔
That might work, but I don't have a furnace or oven that can reach those kinds of temperatures. At those temperatures you will also start to ruin the temper of the steel.
@@CatalystRestorations a normal BBQ can reach 300°C (572°F) Celsius and much much more. 🤗
Very nice restoration. What is that head pattern called?
I *think* it might a Michigan head pattern, but unfortunately nobody has really been able to truly identify it for me.
@@CatalystRestorations Well at least it turned out to be an awesome resto.
@@marodriguezsr thanks!
Я тоже хочу себе такой топор😏
Too bad I use it to chop wood for myself! 😁
@@CatalystRestorations А где можно купить такой топор и как он называется
@@user-nm1lq4nj2x This is called a 'felling axe'. It's supposed to be specifically used for chopping down trees (not splitting logs), since it is a narrow head for deep cuts. Try looking for that!
Dear CR, I enjoyed it a lot. I am puzzled you do not have more subscribers and viewers but people seem to go after attractive looks rather than new ideas and methods. Anyways, I tried to do what you did with my axe heads and have a couple of remarks. The bluing of axe heads is wearing off in use. it seems very superficial. One axe i just cleaned for loose rust with electrolysis and brush and left all the pitting and fast ingrown rust. Then cleaned the butt from mushrooming. Then i applied the bluing method of yours and a lot of chain oil afterwards. I think the existing rust may be an effective part of protection. A question: what is the role of etching in the vinegar ? A modification: between the washing in peroxide, i put the axe head into boiling water to keep it warm , instead of warming it with a hair dryer. What do you think? I used bar and chain oil out of the idea that it will hang on the steel better, having a very viscous nature. How about boiling the head after the peroxide treatment, in cooking oil or motor oil instead of water? You get an even more oxygen poor environment in oil. And how about Warming the oiled head with a gas burner, at least the parts further from the cutting edge, in order to get some stronger warm bluing`? A lot of questions but all of them inspired by your fine work. Thanks in advance, from Denmark.
First off, thank you so much for the kinds words, JS!
I'm going to try to respond to all your questions and comments, but let me know if I'm missing any!
Regarding the bluing wearing off: It's bound to happen with enough use. It is indeed a very thin layer, especially with only a few applications. In professional slow rust bluing processes that are used on items like firearms, they may repeat the entire process of slow rusting and boiling 20+ times before they are completely finished. A slow rust blued (magnetite) surface is still more durable than a cold blued selenium dioxide solution that results in a copper selenide layer.
Regarding converting existing rust to magnetite: I agree that 'existing' rust is likely better bonded to the steel and would provide a better magnetite layer if you just boiled it straight from the start. In this case, I wanted to find any maker's marks and smooth out the mushrooming and pits, hence why I didn't leave the 'old' rust.
Regarding the role of etching in vinegar: The vinegar’s role is to ‘prime’ the surface to maximize the amount of fresh oxidation/rust that can occur when you apply the peroxide solution. Really any acid will work for this - a passive oxidation layer naturally builds up pretty quickly on steel (which dulls the effect of the peroxide solution), so an acid bath removes any oxidation formed between the time you finished sanding and cleaning the piece of grease/oil and when you start the bluing process. In theory, you could immediately go from a freshly sanded surface (~400 grit) right to spraying it with the peroxide solution if your part was already perfectly clean.
Regarding modifying the process to boil the axe head in water to keep it warm between peroxide washes: The purpose of the hair dryer was in part to speed up the reaction, but mostly to dry the peroxide solution so I could apply another layer (building it up) without entirely wiping off the previous one. I wanted a nice, thick layer of fresh rust because during the boiling part you do lose some of your fresh rust layer - it’s not all perfectly converted to magnetite. You could keep the axe head warm in boiling water between applications, but then you are just converting all the fresh rust you just created to magnetite and you’re not ‘building up’ any fresh rust layers before converting to magnetite. I’m guessing with your variation in the process it would take more iterations to achieve a uniform blued layer.
Regarding using bar and chain oil because it 'hangs' better on the steel: If you are referring to substituting bar and chain oil after the bluing process for the mineral oil that I used, then this would be a perfectly acceptable substitute!
Regarding boiling the axe head in cooking oil or motor oil instead of water: I don’t think red rust (Fe2O3) will convert to magnetite (Fe3O4) if you substitute water for an oil. As I understand the chemical reaction, water is an essential part of the reaction that causes the transformation from red to black oxide. My other concern here is safety - boiling oil is extremely dangerous and should only ever be attempted outdoors with proper personal protective equipment. Boiling oil also requires temperatures generally in excess of 500F (300C), which could start to affect the temper of the steel itself. Ideally you should be repeating the entire slow rust bluing process (apply peroxide, let it rust, boil) many times over. If you boil in oil, you’d have to clean/strip the oil off the part after every boil in order to be able to reapply the peroxide treatment. I’d say the real answer here lies with more experimentation!
Regarding warming the oiled head with a gas burner to 'warm blue' the non-tempered portion away from the cutting edge: As long as you are generally keeping the axe head under around 300F (~150C) you can get wild with whatever you think might look good! Again, I’d say the answer lies in more experimentation!
If you do experiment more with any of these methods, I'd love to see your results! Shoot me an email with pictures at catalystrestorations@gmail.com! And if I do more experiments of my own to modify/improve this process I will be sure to make a new video for it!
@@CatalystRestorations Thanks a lot for your quick and detailed response, CR! Again, I have learned a lot from you today. i am not going to make a lot of restorations myself, much less as Yt videos but I enjoy working with steel, above all with axes. Within the last year i bacame something of an axe afficionado and a fan of making my own firewood with them. Lots and lots of it. But apart from the practical application of axes, I do enjoy restoring old heads, which brought me to your channel.
You mention that firearms producers repeat the process of rusting and boiling over twenty times. so maybe the magnetite layer does not prevent the creation of new rust layer after all? I am a bit confused here. What i wanted to achieve by bathing the axe in hot water between applications of peroxide was just to keep it warm to speed the rust formation, thinking that short baths would not result in creation of magnetite? Putting it in warm water might perhaps remove some loose rust which you were removing anyway by carding? Just guessing ...
My understanding of boiling in water after the FINAL peroxide treatment was to provide the high temperature and oxygen poor environment for magnetite to appear. Is water really necessary for magnetite to appear or is this the relative oxygen free environment and temperature? Warming it in hot (but not boiling - not above 150 celcius) oil instead of water, after the final peroxide treatment would be even more oxygen free than the water, and the oil, it might even be chain oil, would penetrate all the holes and crevices even better when warm and the axe immersed in it - a double advantage, instead of boiling water and oil afterwards. Just an idea. Although the perspective of cleaning the mess in the kitchen after the oil is not appealing. My wife might get even more aggressive.
So the vinegar is just for removing a bit rust from the surface? So a light sanding right before peroxide would do the job? But what is the problem with a bit surface rust if we are going to create lots of rust anyway? Perhaps just skip the vinegar altogether? What do you think?
What would be the effect of peroxide bluing on differently sanded surfaces? Maybe a more rough surface would be easier to rust and have the rust stay on, as opposed to a completely polished one?
I love the rough, barbaric look of old axes and I do not remove the imperfections, apart from the muschrooming. I noticed that the old axes do often have a layer of black on them. Question is: is this magnetite or just red rust blackened by oil and dirt? The rusty red ones which i cleaned of loose rust with a wire brush and blued using your process with peroxide, became very black and beautiful.
i can see that some people here asked you about the marble pattern you achieved, and you responded that the pattern was due to salt crystals forming on the surface. Which means that immersing the axe in boiling or warm water between peroxide treatments would dissolve the crystals and prevent the pattern forming?
i understand that quenching the red hot steel in warm oil for hardening creates somehow a layer of magnetite on the surface, which explains the looks of some better new axes like this one from Gransfors Bruk which i have and love: www.gransforsbruk.com/wp-content/uploads/450-slaggyxa_5-1440x1025.jpg
Only the cutting edge in this maul is blank sanded and polished. Is this magnetite created in the oil? And why is this appearing?
I am asking all these questions here and not in a private email because some people might learn from our exchange. I am looking forward to your new video about bluing and other restorations. I am going to experiment with this myself and send you the results and pictures when i have something interesting. I know you are a metallurgy specialist, engineer and i am just a medical doctor playing with axes in the free time - so please excuse the many questions. Yours Jacek from Denmark
Love the questions!
So magnetite doesn’t necessarily prevent rust from occurring entirely forever (it best cases it lasts maybe a year or two), but it does inhibit the natural rusting process substantially. Subjecting steel to a hot salt/peroxide solution is just about the most aggressive thing you can throw at it to promote rusting, so it’s not that surprising that it’ll still rust further.
There are 7 known basic types of magnetite formation and all occur under slightly different circumstances. It's wild! The 1990 Dissertation paper “Formation and Transformation Characteristics of Magnetite Iron Under Different Laboratory and Field Conditions” (Seifollah Nasrazadani) is an awesome paper that really gets into the details of how magnetite can form under several different mechanics, not all of which are due to oxygen deprived environments. If you can find a copy of it online I’d recommend skimming through it - lots of run detail and experiments to wade through. A great baseline for running some home experiments.
In regards to bathing in warm water between rust treatments, that definitely seems fine. I was envisioning boiling water for some reason!
In regards to the vinegar, I want to say that a an soak primes the steel in more ways than removing the oxidation layer, possibly having to do with actually lighting etching the steel, but I don’t have any empirical evidence to back that up and a real black hole as a metallurgist, haha.
I still haven't been able come up with a metallurgical explanation for the marbled magnetite pattern I achieved, but I am able to repeat it many different grades of steel. Lots of variables to play with.
In regards to the really nice blackened finishes you see on some axes sold online, you way you can achieve a finish like that when you're heat treating the head in the first place. If you quench a red hot axe head in oil, temper it immediately, and then oil it again you'll get a rich, black scale layer on the surface.
@@CatalystRestorations Hello CR, I have sent you a couple emails on the catalystrestorations@gmail.com account with some pictures. I made a batch of three axe heads yesterday. It id not go too well. The rust did not stick too well. I added some vinegar to the peroxide-salt solution to try something but it went even worse. The scum on the surface of the axes kept forming and protected it from the spraying with fresh peroxide. I repeated the process innumerable times but the final result is uneven and dark grey, not black. I am going to strip the oil from the heads and try again some time.
@@CatalystRestorations This guy is carding after boiling not before ua-cam.com/video/VPD3GWqk-yE/v-deo.html . I think now than i may have been carding too vigorously and before boiling, not after.
I just rewatched and had a real noob question. Would boiling a roast axe still convert the Fe(2)O(3) to Fe(3) O(4)?
Hi Nick! I'm not exactly sure what a roast axe is, but if there's any red rust on it boiling it will still convert it to black oxide!
@@CatalystRestorations haha! Thanks
Question. Why do electrolysis if you will just bring it all off anyway? Asking because I have an axe head I would like to restore.
Hi Chris! Great question. Electrolysis is a delicate method of rust removal and therefore excellent if you're trying to carefully remove rust to look for maker's marks to discover the piece's history (and then decide how much grinding and sanding you want to do depending on what kind of tool you find you have) before you just dive into heavy grinding and sanding. Many old maker's marks are extremely faint/shallow and easily obscured by rust. Electrolysis is also great because it removes the vast majority of surface rust before you even start sanding and grinding, which really cuts down the amount of debris in the air and around your workshop, especially for people with tiny workshop spaces. If you already know what axe you have and your not worried about grinding off any stamping or markings, you can go about removing the rust however you'd like!
@@CatalystRestorations thank you so much for the reply! That totally makes sense, and it is a great tip! You do tremendous work, and we all enjoy watching! Thanks again!
@@chris.heffernan Thanks Chris! When you finish up your axe send a few pics over to me (catalystrestorations@gmail.com), I'd love to see how it turns out!
Why the electrólisis if you are just gonna grind the surface? Did you change of plans because of the pits?
Great question! I used this axe project to trial a lot of 'firsts' - electrolysis, slow rust bluing, hanging the axe. I performed the electrolysis mostly to test my electrolysis setup, but also I personally like working with a rust-free surface during grinding - in my opinion it gives you the best visibility on pits and it's just cleaner on my workshop setup. There's way less dust and debris flying everywhere with the rust already removed. The bonus of electrolysis is that it costs pennies to do, so there's really no downside except the time it takes to run!
@@CatalystRestorations cool, thanks for the info. Really like seeing this kind of restorations where they bring back to life something so far gone
Beautiful work
Thanks for watching!
I found a Craftsman 3.5 pound axe head and I bought a handle. I will restore it and use the rust and boil finish.
Best of luck, Nicholas! It's going to look amazing! Feel free to send me some pictures when it's all finished! catalystrestorations@gmail.com
@CatalystRestorations thanks! saved the email
Sent you an email oh my I love it. I have a brush axe head also.
@@nicholasmarion8468 awesome! I'd love to see how a brush axe looks with this finish!
Great restoration!!!!!
Thanks Barry!!
Personally, I would have sunk the head into the shoulder a little bit more, so that the wedge can come out over the top and expand a bunch, nonetheless, very cool project
Yup, I completely agree! Thanks! 👍
Very cool restoration
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful Job !!
Thanks, Linda!!
if you can get or have access to a welder just drop a bead where the gouges and deepest pits are, sand and voila
I'd caution against any welding repairs, no matter how small, on something like an axe head. Welding will ruin the hardening/temper condition wherever you repair.
Can the boiling water ruin the temper of the axe?
Great question! The steel temper isn't really affected until you reach the 400F degree range. So 212F boiling water will not ruin the temper.
No
Not quite the worst I have seen for pitting, but not good. Restored a similar axe, and the pits were so deep on the sides they would not grind out. Smoothed the shallow pits, the dented end, and left the deep ones as "character development."
I agree on the "character"! Personally I like some nicks, dings, and pits on a working tool. UA-cam just reaallllly seems to love that perfect mirror finish on every axe head 🤷
The only bad thing is the hang/fit of the axe head
Agreed! This was the first time I ever did it! Risky nice to do it on camera for the very first time 😉
What does the boiling water do? Can you dumb it down for me?
Boiling red rust causes it to undergo a chemical reaction that changes it from ferrous oxide (red rust) to black oxide (ferrous oxide), which is more chemically stable and durable.
I was just given an axe in similar condition, but more pitted, and found your video most helpful. I am curious about the pattern you got; was that from the 120 grit or actually the pattern in the steel? Almost ended up looking like patterned steel. This video may convince me not to try to etch a pattern on the one I have. Thanks!
Hey Bryson, great question! The source of the etch pattern is almost certainly my at-home rust bluing process as a whole, rather than a particular grit finish on it. In my rust bluing experiments I found that the dried salt build-up left behind from the dried, heated solution is the likely culprit. Any salt residue left on the surface between applications of the hydrogen peroxide solution will inhibit a fresh, even coat of rust that would subsequently be converted to black oxide during boiling in water. If you want to do a quick experiment to see which process gives you your favorite outcome, you can buy a sheet of plain carbon steel (uncoated) from a hardware store for about $7 and cut it into squares and perform the rust bluing process I did, but with some variations: less salt, cleaning more between applications, vinegar etching between each reapplication of hydrogen peroxide, etc. Good luck! And please send me a video or photos of before and after!
@@CatalystRestorations Thanks for getting back to me! I will watch this a few more times to see if I want to put my mad scientist lab coat on and do some experiments, or just do what you did. I promise to send you before and after shots.
@@CatalystRestorations I have finished it, it's wonderful, and I would send you before and after shots if only I knew how to reach you! This technique is amazing.
Awesome! My email is catalystrestorations@gmail.com
nice hit on 19:28. so knotty..
Thanks! Knotty, just like my back!
Досмотрел до конца... Взял топор в рытвинах от коррозии, заровнял, наделал новых рытвин и заточил... Не проще было тогда просто протереть кислотой какой от ржавой пыли, заточить и готово?
looks like a dogs butt sewed up with a kudzu vine!
I have no idea what that's supposed to mean, but I'm gonna take that as a compliment.
@ 14:10
lolol 😳😳😳
Один вопрос только - зачем были начальные потуги с мылом и электролизом если в итоге все равно на гриндере зачистку делал?
Можно же было кордщеткой снять ржавчину, лепестковым диском зачистить и на гриндере заровнять.
Hi! I wrote my reply in English and had Google translate it for me, hopefully it translates okay!
Не пришлось чистить мылом и электролизом. Я предпочитаю его, потому что при шлифовании меньше пыли, и я лучше вижу ямки, которые нужно отшлифовать.
I didn't HAVE to clean it with soap and electrolysis. I prefer it though because there is less dust to deal with during grinding and I can see the pits better that I need to grind away. :)
I was watching it for a while going damn why isn't he using an angle grinder with a flap disc or something?
Patience 😊. I always go slow with initial cleaning and sanding in case there's maker's marks I can't see so I don't grind them away.
If you were going to grind it why bother with the electrolysis at the beginning?
Electrolysis is a delicate method of rust removal and therefore excellent if you're trying to carefully remove rust to look for maker's marks to discover the piece's history (and then decide how much grinding and sanding you want to do depending on what kind of tool you find you have) before you just dive into heavy grinding and sanding. Many old maker's marks are extremely faint/shallow and easily obscured by rust. Electrolysis is also great because it removes the vast majority of surface rust before you even start sanding and grinding, which really cuts down the amount of debris in the air and around your workshop, especially for people with tiny workshop spaces.
Neat finish technique, everything else is insane Lol if you’re using this as a ‘how to’ guide for hanging a axe you’re wrong
Don't worry, ain't nobody claiming that it is!
14:51 *pit in stomach*
Lol, it took soooo long and also it's so stressful if you don't get it right!
not a big fan of the way the head of the axe look like but to compecite for the axe sems to be wery sharp and you test like aaxe is sopused to be a big like from me
You did great up until you did the handle I wish you would have shaved the shoulders of the handle down and got the handle to fit in the ax-head deeper before you put the wedge in the axe handle should have stuck out of the top of the ax-head a little bit
I agree, John!
You missed quenching, normalising and tempering
As long as you don't start heating the steel beyond ~400-500F you're not going to ruin the existing temper to a degree that requires renormalizing, quenching, and retempering an axe head that's already properly tempered.
Source: I am literally a steel metallurgical engineer.
A lot of work but to me it still looks rusty
Looks are deceiving!
only 40k views and 650 likes? Lemme change that
40,001 views and 651 likes? 😂Thank you!
@@CatalystRestorations nah 40623rd view or sm haha
You misspelt the title , it should read: deep patina removal.
ok George
Oh man..you must be single or the wife is out of town…..her hair dryer….spillage on the stove and her good spaghetti pan….then you used her makeup cotton pads…….living dangerously my friend…😂
Haha, you would think! 😂 The hair dryer is mine, the stovetop mess is just iron fortified water (lol), and the cook pot and glass dish were thrift finds for $1 specifically for doing restorations! The cotton makeup pads were hers though! 🤣
Why the rust removal and washing when you use the grinder seems like a waste of time
Hi Bryan, great question! When you have something this old and rusty there may be maker's stamps or other markings hidden under there and I want to preserve any that might be there, so I need to be 'careful' at first removing that rust.
Your subscription count is doing injustice to you.....
We'll get there some day! Thanks! 😁 👍
Sand Blast would have done much better
Oh man, don't I know it! Would've been a lot faster, that's for sure, haha. A media blasting setup would be great! Do you have $800 I can borrow for a cabinet and compressor? 😁 Thanks for subscribing!
The electrolyse was a wast of time, becourse you sanded it anyway down.
I approach every restoration delicately - you never know what kind of maker's mark, stamp, label, etc. that might be hidden under layers of rust and if you just start sanding and griding immediately you will almost certainly lose them.
@@CatalystRestorations that's true If that's important for your restoration.
Es un Acha vasca de competición su aspecto normal es brillo espejo con tantas porquerías la as estropeado
"It is a competition Basque acha its normal appearance is mirror shine with so much crap you've ruined it."
Sorry that this didn't translate very well, but thanks for the feedback.
I would not remove the patina with the angle grinder
Generally, I would agree with that as well, especially for axes from a well known maker or even a family history. In this case it was a no-name unbranded head with no sentimental value to me, so it was a great opportunity to just try something totally new!
black scale after electrolysis or acid rust removing is not good. this is carbon loose by hydrogen embrittlement, weakening the hardness or the steel...
These are all common misconceptions about how electrolysis with steel works, but I can help clarify all these points!
During electrolysis of rust, the main chemical reaction taking place is ferritic oxide (Fe2O3) being converted (reduced) to Fe3O4 (magnetite, or the "black stuff"). Electrolysis does not and cannot remove any carbon from steel; it is chemically not possible. If we were to somehow lose carbon during electrolysis you would actually be making the steel softer and less brittle. You probably already know this, but carbon is the main alloying element in steel and the general trend is the more carbon within the steel the stronger the steel (with the caveat that you are also making it more brittle).
Hydrogen embrittlement is also unrelated to the carbon content of the steel. Hydrogen embrittlement is the result of hydrogen migrating to the steel's grain boundaries, making them more brittle and susceptible to fracture. This is only temporary though, as hydrogen naturally dissipates from grain boundaries over time, so even with a small risk for temporary hydrogen embrittlement from the steel being in a water and hydrogen-rich environment, time is always your friend to undo that.
Hope that helps!
Source: My undergraduate degree is in Materials Science and Engineering and my full time job is a Metallurgical Engineer for a steel company for over a decade.
@@CatalystRestorations Fe2O3 can not be oxidize a the cathode, wich is the reduction electrode. at the anode take place oxidation.
I have serious doubts on your knowledge lol !
I have experiment with hydrogen embrigment with hardned scraper steel into acid. after while, and hydrogen evolution, the steel become dark du to the loose of carbide, and after the scraper blade had completly loose it's springness. and in acid, the evolution of a black residue on steel prove that is carbon and not Fe2O3 or Fe3O4 who is convert in the conresponding salt of the acid.
at electrolysis, at the cathode there is hydrogen evolution on the part like acid, and the same stuff happend. the carbide loose is more visible on the tip of the blades where the quenching is important.
the onlybenefit with electrolysis in derusting, that the hydrogen gas between steel and rust who take of the rust and put it in the electrolite, that why electrolyte become rusty orange.
my choice for derusting is a almost PH neutral solution of homemade di/tri-ammonium citrate that remove rust by chelating action like evaporust.
and for hot blueing, I use a solution of NH4NO3 1% with a pinch of KClO3, and a little PH acidity. there is a free patent on this recipe. it give the exact same reslult as NaOH hot bath, in one bath.
trust me, I have eperience in electro-chemistry and your totally wrong.
I think it you you have misconception with how the chemistry work.
@@gaulix69 I always appreciate some good empirical evidence like the experiments you're running! Can you write out the balanced chemical equation for me that you believe is occurring for electrolysis of rusty steel using an iron anode and a water based electrolyte? An electrolytic reaction of this type only actively involves Fe, Fe2O3, H2O, OH (and some other byproducts sometimes). You cannot strip away the carbon from steel via this type of electrolysis. You also mentioned acids in there at one point, which is a completely different story than electrolysis. With acids you are physically etching the steel which CAN effect the immediate carbon content at the object's surface.
@@CatalystRestorations citation : "Rust removal, de-greasing, de-smutting, and activating by electrolysis are performed in acidic and alkaline solutions, after pickling processes. In these cases where products are processed by cathode electrolysis, hydrogen embrittlement occurs due to electrolysis of water. With anode electrolysis in alkali baths, very little embrittlement occurs. In acid bath, hydrogen embrittlement occurs during non-energized durations due to chemical dissolution."
source : Mitsumi technical tutorial.
in your case mostly of the black scale is left over natural magnetite, on old tool under red rust sometime some rust slowly convert in magnetite, and it is left over because Fe3O4 is far more resistant than Fe2O3. but there might be a little carbon scale due to hydrogen embrittlement, as the source comfirm, in alkaline, it is very little, but it here ! and the time exposition is an important factor, in your case, 48H !! it's huge.
electrolysis of two clean Fe electrodes, Fe anode give Fe3+ to Fe(OH)2, and Fe(OH)2 is very poor solubility in water so it precipitate if electrolite salt is strong alcaline hydroxide,
other wise Fe(OH)2 hydrolize to Fe2O3 and same thing at anode by the O2 evolution.
And at cathode, there is just hydrogen evolution.
you missing two involve elements, O2 gas at the anode and H2 gas at the cathode. and dihydrogen can strip carbon by hydrogen embrittlement.
you also missing intermediate FeO(OH) / Fe(OH)2 / Fe(OH)3
there is no "THE" chemical equation for electrolysis reaction. they are several complex reaction that occurs, particuliary if there are contaminant, like chloride. The chlore/alkali cell to make hypochlorite, chlorate and perchlorates are a good exemple of complex several reaction taking place. electroplating cells are also interesting to understand the electro-chemistry
Anode H2O reaction : 2H2O = O2 + 4e- + 4H+ .
Anode Fe ions reaction = 4Fe3 + 9O2 = 6Fe2O3
Cathode H2O reactions : 2H2O +4e- = H2 + 2OH-
Cathode Fe ions reaction Fe2+ (aq) + OH- (aq) = Fe(OH)2
Oxidation of fe(II) to Fe(III) hydroxide : Fe(OH)2 +H2O + O2 = Fe(OH)3