Those pinions have a rotating torque spec. On 1500 not as big a deal. Did the same job on a 2500 thinking no big deal and it came back whining. Took two long pry bars a heavy duty torque wrench and two of us to set that nut right.
I'm getting a leak in the same spot. Replaced my pinion seal and it's still letting a fair amount out. I had no idea about the yoke sleeve. I use RockAuto as well and can't find one on there. I'm hoping that's the last of it once I add the sleeve which should go quickly since I don't have to pull the rear seal again. Thanks for the insight and letting us know.
Howdy, awesome video explained everything super well but I have a question. On the yoke you are able to remove the flange (round part) that the yoke seal sits on? I somehow got steel wire wrapped around my yoke and it crushed the flange and messed up the seals and in the morning gonna try to get it replaced but not sure if I would have to source a whole new yoke. Thanks!
@@boosthuntergarage awesome 👌.. Just got back from a trip up to the Sierras and next morning I had a couple of drips of gear oil on ground from rear diff. I have done very similar repairs on yota diffs with no issues and 1 on a front diff off a 08 ram 3500 and that didn't go so well. I had a leaky front pinion seal on my 08 ram, and because it was under warranty at the time, I had dealership replace.. It leaked again immediately and took it once more. No more leaks for around 20k maybe? By that time warranty was gone and I replaced myself with this same exact method.. Well, diff only lasted another 20k after that until pinion bearings seized and my front diff completely went out... My biggest mistake was taking rig to dealership the very first time it started to leak, I am sure they never set pinion nut to correct preload and I never was a le to set thr nut back to factory spec when I did my seal replacement.. I am sure they just hammered on the pinion nut with a impact.. I am sure they didn't pull axles and check preload... Now when I need to replace a pinion seal I get a little paranoid and feel like doing it right way, but as mentioned before the times I have replaced seals via your method shown, I have never had an issue so long as stealership didn't mess with it before hand ....
@@LANDCRUISERLIFE the dealership is definitely a joke, just a money grab usually. Yeah this method definitely isn’t the greatest way, obviously better to fully take apart the diff. Could last a long time or could leak again in a short time like you said. Hopefully mine lasts awhile, next time it leaks I’ll rebuild the whole diff and replace all the seals.
Great video! Excellent and on point. Definetly made the unknown job a breeze! Keep up the great work!
Thank you, I appreciate the comment! Glad it was helpful!
Those pinions have a rotating torque spec. On 1500 not as big a deal. Did the same job on a 2500 thinking no big deal and it came back whining. Took two long pry bars a heavy duty torque wrench and two of us to set that nut right.
If you drilled a hole through the board the size of the shaft it’s be perfect
Yeah true, that would work great!
I'm getting a leak in the same spot. Replaced my pinion seal and it's still letting a fair amount out. I had no idea about the yoke sleeve. I use RockAuto as well and can't find one on there.
I'm hoping that's the last of it once I add the sleeve which should go quickly since I don't have to pull the rear seal again.
Thanks for the insight and letting us know.
Well how did it go? As off now I’m on the same situation 🤔
Changed to a slightly smaller diameter ring.
No more leaks. Been about 6 months.
@@TransientMobile So you didn’t replace the yoke sleeve?
No. I didn’t. I got a 1/4 smaller ring and it sealed properly without one.
@@TransientMobile thanks for the info
Howdy, awesome video explained everything super well but I have a question. On the yoke you are able to remove the flange (round part) that the yoke seal sits on? I somehow got steel wire wrapped around my yoke and it crushed the flange and messed up the seals and in the morning gonna try to get it replaced but not sure if I would have to source a whole new yoke. Thanks!
Hey, to be honest I’m not 100% sure but I would think that you would have to replace the whole thing. Sorry I can’t be more help
what is the part number please?
AAM Part # 74020013
eBay has a AAM kit for $30
What size gear puller are you using ?
I believe it was a 6in gear puller
would this kit work on my 2010 ram 3500 dually?
As long as it has a AAM 11.5 rear end it should work
Any issuses with bearing or seal after repair?
Haven’t had any issues, been good so far
@@boosthuntergarage awesome 👌.. Just got back from a trip up to the Sierras and next morning I had a couple of drips of gear oil on ground from rear diff. I have done very similar repairs on yota diffs with no issues and 1 on a front diff off a 08 ram 3500 and that didn't go so well. I had a leaky front pinion seal on my 08 ram, and because it was under warranty at the time, I had dealership replace.. It leaked again immediately and took it once more. No more leaks for around 20k maybe? By that time warranty was gone and I replaced myself with this same exact method.. Well, diff only lasted another 20k after that until pinion bearings seized and my front diff completely went out... My biggest mistake was taking rig to dealership the very first time it started to leak, I am sure they never set pinion nut to correct preload and I never was a le to set thr nut back to factory spec when I did my seal replacement..
I am sure they just hammered on the pinion nut with a impact.. I am sure they didn't pull axles and check preload... Now when I need to replace a pinion seal I get a little paranoid and feel like doing it right way, but as mentioned before the times I have replaced seals via your method shown, I have never had an issue so long as stealership didn't mess with it before hand ....
@@LANDCRUISERLIFE the dealership is definitely a joke, just a money grab usually. Yeah this method definitely isn’t the greatest way, obviously better to fully take apart the diff. Could last a long time or could leak again in a short time like you said. Hopefully mine lasts awhile, next time it leaks I’ll rebuild the whole diff and replace all the seals.
Fyi....at least for me, a 36mm socket worked ALOT better for the flange nut.
Was it for a dually or SRW model?
I'm getting ready to do this job on my 05 dually soon.
@@greyreaper3453 this was on my 2003 ram 2500. I "staked" on the 1 3/8's but couldn't get the socket removed when reinstalling. The 36mm did the job👍
@@greyreaper3453 srw