First good video I've seen for the 3.0 4runner steering pump. Couldn't get my pulley off before. So I'm going to give those vice grips a try. Big help, thanks!
Got to love cars with strong aftermarkets like the Corvette and others! Having owned a 1979 Corvette for a decade I tell Corvette owners when I meet them "I'd still own my Corvette if it were a Toyota". A 4RNR is more than that, it is truly a great truck and great off road where the Corvette was too heavy and surface streets to unpredictable. By the way, I was taught always to disconnect the negative battery terminal first and last, it is a safety thing.
Please Note: For the 2 vacuum hoses connected to the pump @ 08:49, the routing of the hoses are illustrated in Ritzy's video quite nicely. Link: ua-cam.com/video/yCu8T2-6U0U/v-deo.html
I don't have the PS pump leak, my 1990 4Runner 3VZE was leaking on the steer gear box. Adding 2oz of AT-205 seems to have stopped the leak after weeks passed, I started with only 1oz carefully measured. 1oz slowed it considerably. It took 3 weeks to see results. Then I added 1/2 or 1 oz more. I don't throw away rebuild-able mechanical parts , Gates & Toyota might have rebuild kits (Partsgeek, Longo Toyota). I used 1oz ATP in my differential after buying the pinion gear OEM seal, the seal its ready for me to install if needed. But I'm not getting anymore drips thus far. I thank Scotty for that tip. Even I put on my wipers and any rubber, like axle boots. My PS pump and gearbox has 311K miles, for sure as I 've had it 31 years. . I have a spare steerbox from a donor 1995 4runner days before it was crushed.
Dude, your videos are amazing! My pump is leaking too and I bought the oem rebuild kit and I will try to take it out, rebuild it and install it. Hopefully I wont screw it up.
Sweet! Do you have any vids on rebuilding the steering pump itself? Was originally going to do that but didn't have the tools or space to do it at the time.
Just bought a 93 4Runner. Power steering is leaking from the pulley. The pulley wobbles a little. I’m not a mechanic but ima try it myself to fix still
@@roughcutsgarage thank you getting back to me quickly. Hell yea can’t wait to get my hands on one because man it left your parts looking nice. About to do this job myself and man your video is just perfect definitely helping so many people you rock man !
Could possibly still be air in the line? Faulty pump possibly. Maybe the 2 vacuum lines were connected in the opposite way but I'm not sure if that would cause a stuff wheel.
When taking the 22 mm Banjo bolt apart I noticed the edit, started with the pulley in place, then the pulley was magically already taken off. This is where I'm stuck. I need to get the pulley off before I can get a good hold on the interior pump nut. Pulley nut came of fine, I've wedged a pry bar behind the pully and banged on it, rotating the pully 1/4 turn each attempt, pully won't budge. Do I need some special type of "puller"? Once I get the pully off, I stand a better chance of getting those main pump line (banjo 22 mm) nuts apart.
Hey thanks for your question. When we made the video, we didn't have any manuals or order in which to remove the parts. After learning what had to be done, I figured I'd re arrange the clips in an order that viewers could follow to make the job easier. @2:30 is where I get the PS Pump Pulley off. If it's hard to remove, you could try penetrating oil. Worse case you could remove the fan and try to get in there to hit the centre with a big hammer. Thanks for your support.
Yes, I caught the few secs using the pry bar, kind of out of sequence. I had to use a jaw puller, it was a beast and slightly bent the pulley, but got it finally.
@@roughcutsgarage Putting things back together and didn't see where a small brass half dome "union seat" came off. Fits perfectly on both the air flow control unit and the fluid control bolt - didn't see it when you took those two items apart. Do you recall running across that little critter and where it goes? Saw a diagram where a tiny piece is called a "union seat" and it connects to the air flow unit.
@@blairbossie2205 The little semi-circular piece was seated in a slot on shaft of the PS pump itself to fit between it and the pulley so the pulley wont spin feely on the shaft.
I can't get my pully nut loose. You started to remove your pump with the pully wheel on, but after editing, the wheel was removed as you removed the pivot bolt. Can you remove the pump with the pully wheel attached?
@01:13 I don't see why you couldn't remove the pump with pulley attached as long as you can get to the bolts holding the pump in place and get past the radiator fan. In order to get mine off, I used a vice grip on the spindle because the friction on the belt wasn't enough to hold the pulley in place to get the nut off.
@@roughcutsgarage I'm new to this and decided to fix up/repair/paint an 1989 toyota pickup as my next hobby. I can't loosen the pivot bolt or the bolt for the adjuster without stripping off the bolt head corners. What do mechanics do? Vice grips, cut, destroy and find replacements?
@@thepopeofantelope Welcome to the club! Depending on how accessible a bolt is, the size, and the style will determine the different methods I use. First I always try using Liquid Wrench or any other rust solvent designed for loosening off rusty or seized bolts. Might have to apply more than once. If that doesn't work, try smacking the surrounding area with a hammer to shake it loose. you can also try applying heat around the bolt so it expands the metal that grips the bolt in hopes of breaking it free. If the head warps or strips, you can try hammering in a different size bit just to get some grip on it. If its a nut and the corners are worn off, vice grips are a good option. There are also "easy outs" that are a backwards drill shaped tap that you can use to back out the stripped holes in a screw or bolt. Worst case is drilling out a bolt and re-tapping a hole. If its the bolt in question, you could try using a grinder if you can fit it in there but then again if you cant get it off without rounding the corners then its just going to be worse than grinding off the head and using vice grips. I recommend trying liquid wrench and maybe heating it up and whacking the area with a hammer first before grinding or drilling. Hope this helps! Good luck!
I followed this same process except flushing the return. I haven't gotten the air out of the system still. How long did you have to turn the wheels to get the air out?
Hi, i'm in Canada too, can you please add links to the parts your used... link to pump and hoses, and flywheel part... i need to do the exact same install as you...
We ordered our parts through Lordco. The links in the description are references to the parts from Napa since Lordco doesn't have an online catalogue. The PS pump should come with new gaskets, washers, and the flywheel part. The vacuum lines we just cut to length from generic vacuum line hose. If you call them they should be able to get you everything you need. Hope this helps.
When ours was leaking it was coming right from the pump. In your case, and what i did to rule out hoses, was to take Spray Nine or any other degreaser with water and clean all of the hoses if they are dirty (as they most likely are). Then go for a slow drive and move the wheel a lot and then that may give you a better idea of where it is coming from.
Our pump wasn't squeeling no. Mind you we had only had the 4runner for a year at this point and the previous owner said the pump was leaking. Could have been squeeling initially for him before we bought it.
Almost good video, pity a bit dark inside engine bay, can't see a thing when you're down there, sorry. You say, this bolt here, those nuts there ...I can't see what goes where. Anyway, thank you so much.
Yeah it's difficult trying to film how you did something you have never done before without any manuals outside in your driveway. I'll do better next time.
@@roughcutsgarage Thanks for replying. My issue is about elapsed time after disassembling coz just after that i I had a heart attack making me stop for 14 months and now i don't remember much what goes where, that's why I need clearing videos to reassemble
At last! A real pro vid on the 3VZE! Others on here hurl chunks. THANKS!
Thanks for your support! Much appreciated.
Great Video!
First good video I've seen for the 3.0 4runner steering pump. Couldn't get my pulley off before. So I'm going to give those vice grips a try. Big help, thanks!
Thanks a bunch! Good luck!
Dude, thank you! I have been topping of my pump for months.
Our pleasure! Glad we could help.
try 1 oz AT-205 then wait 3 weeks. Only use Dexron III like the cap says. Never synthetic.
Got to love cars with strong aftermarkets like the Corvette and others! Having owned a 1979 Corvette for a decade I tell Corvette owners when I meet them "I'd still own my Corvette if it were a Toyota". A 4RNR is more than that, it is truly a great truck and great off road where the Corvette was too heavy and surface streets to unpredictable. By the way, I was taught always to disconnect the negative battery terminal first and last, it is a safety thing.
Agreed. There was a time where vehicles were just built better! Thanks.
Please Note: For the 2 vacuum hoses connected to the pump @ 08:49, the routing of the hoses are illustrated in Ritzy's video quite nicely.
Link: ua-cam.com/video/yCu8T2-6U0U/v-deo.html
I don't have the PS pump leak, my 1990 4Runner 3VZE was leaking on the steer gear box. Adding 2oz of AT-205 seems to have stopped the leak after weeks passed, I started with only 1oz carefully measured. 1oz slowed it considerably. It took 3 weeks to see results. Then I added 1/2 or 1 oz more. I don't throw away rebuild-able mechanical parts , Gates & Toyota might have rebuild kits (Partsgeek, Longo Toyota). I used 1oz ATP in my differential after buying the pinion gear OEM seal, the seal its ready for me to install if needed. But I'm not getting anymore drips thus far. I thank Scotty for that tip. Even I put on my wipers and any rubber, like axle boots. My PS pump and gearbox has 311K miles, for sure as I 've had it 31 years. . I have a spare steerbox from a donor 1995 4runner days before it was crushed.
Sweet thanks! The more info on problems like this is better for all of us trying to keep these beasts on the road.
Mi Toyota 4runner 95 tira líquido hidráulico, gracias a tú vídeo ya se donde empezar a verificar la fuga
Great video it was very informative and helped me a lot with taking the pump of and on. Thank you
Our pleasure! Thanks for your support.
Very instructional, thanks 😊 also you got an awesome girl cuz she helps you work on your truck 🚚
Hey thanks! Yeah she is wonderful.
Tank you for your help, excellent, great job
Our pleasure. Thanks for your support!
I love this power steering pump replacement video! I have a 90 and 91 4runner.
Thanks! Glad you like it and it helped! 2 x 4Runners! Nice. The second gens are my favourite.
Dude, your videos are amazing! My pump is leaking too and I bought the oem rebuild kit and I will try to take it out, rebuild it and install it. Hopefully I wont screw it up.
Thanks! Good luck. I was going to do that but we needed the truck the next day so I figured I would just replace it.
Hero. Currently doing mine. Would not of been able to without this video.
Thanks for your support!
is not a flywheel is a pulley
You are correct.
Am a steering engineer by profession i work and repair all kinds of steering pump and racks ...
Sweet! Do you have any vids on rebuilding the steering pump itself? Was originally going to do that but didn't have the tools or space to do it at the time.
@@roughcutsgarage yeah I have the materials and tools needed
Thats cool your wife helps and support
Cheers from Russia
Thnx
Thanks I'll pass along the compliment to her!
Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Just bought a 93 4Runner. Power steering is leaking from the pulley. The pulley wobbles a little. I’m not a mechanic but ima try it myself to fix still
That's awesome! Good luck!
Good on ya.
Thanks!
Best viedo I seen and really good details
excellent good work, congratulations on your teachings
What did you use to clean up the old parts ?
Loved the video definitely super helpful just perfect to be honest with you.
We used Spray Nine degreaser. Eats up grease and gunk really well. Thank you and we are glad it could help you. 👍
@@roughcutsgarage thank you getting back to me quickly. Hell yea can’t wait to get my hands on one because man it left your parts looking nice.
About to do this job myself and man your video is just perfect definitely helping so many people you rock man !
@@vegaf2011 Thanks a bunch! Hope to make a few more in the near future. The more content out there about these things the better for everyone!
@@roughcutsgarage hell yea man most definitely. Not that many videos with these type of engines mostly the 22re single cabs lol.
@@roughcutsgarage so I finished the job but not it’s making that squealing sound like on the end of your video. Any fix for this?
Check that I changed the pump and I did the whole procedure well and the rudder is still hard. Can you give me an idea of what it could be?
Could possibly still be air in the line? Faulty pump possibly. Maybe the 2 vacuum lines were connected in the opposite way but I'm not sure if that would cause a stuff wheel.
When taking the 22 mm Banjo bolt apart I noticed the edit, started with the pulley in place, then the pulley was magically already taken off. This is where I'm stuck. I need to get the pulley off before I can get a good hold on the interior pump nut. Pulley nut came of fine, I've wedged a pry bar behind the pully and banged on it, rotating the pully 1/4 turn each attempt, pully won't budge. Do I need some special type of "puller"? Once I get the pully off, I stand a better chance of getting those main pump line (banjo 22 mm) nuts apart.
Hey thanks for your question. When we made the video, we didn't have any manuals or order in which to remove the parts. After learning what had to be done, I figured I'd re arrange the clips in an order that viewers could follow to make the job easier. @2:30 is where I get the PS Pump Pulley off. If it's hard to remove, you could try penetrating oil. Worse case you could remove the fan and try to get in there to hit the centre with a big hammer. Thanks for your support.
Yes, I caught the few secs using the pry bar, kind of out of sequence. I had to use a jaw puller, it was a beast and slightly bent the pulley, but got it finally.
@@blairbossie2205 Glad to hear you could get it off.
@@roughcutsgarage Putting things back together and didn't see where a small brass half dome "union seat" came off. Fits perfectly on both the air flow control unit and the fluid control bolt - didn't see it when you took those two items apart. Do you recall running across that little critter and where it goes? Saw a diagram where a tiny piece is called a "union seat" and it connects to the air flow unit.
@@blairbossie2205 The little semi-circular piece was seated in a slot on shaft of the PS pump itself to fit between it and the pulley so the pulley wont spin feely on the shaft.
Great video...nice and detailed.
Thanks!
Thanks
Our pleasure! Thanks for your support.
Where did you get replacement hoses whats the replacement size?
I am pretty sure we just went to Lordco or (any parts store) with the old hose and just compared. Can't remember the size sorry.
I can't get my pully nut loose. You started to remove your pump with the pully wheel on, but after editing, the wheel was removed as you removed the pivot bolt. Can you remove the pump with the pully wheel attached?
@01:13 I don't see why you couldn't remove the pump with pulley attached as long as you can get to the bolts holding the pump in place and get past the radiator fan. In order to get mine off, I used a vice grip on the spindle because the friction on the belt wasn't enough to hold the pulley in place to get the nut off.
@@roughcutsgarage I'm new to this and decided to fix up/repair/paint an 1989 toyota pickup as my next hobby. I can't loosen the pivot bolt or the bolt for the adjuster without stripping off the bolt head corners. What do mechanics do? Vice grips, cut, destroy and find replacements?
@@thepopeofantelope Welcome to the club! Depending on how accessible a bolt is, the size, and the style will determine the different methods I use. First I always try using Liquid Wrench or any other rust solvent designed for loosening off rusty or seized bolts. Might have to apply more than once. If that doesn't work, try smacking the surrounding area with a hammer to shake it loose. you can also try applying heat around the bolt so it expands the metal that grips the bolt in hopes of breaking it free. If the head warps or strips, you can try hammering in a different size bit just to get some grip on it. If its a nut and the corners are worn off, vice grips are a good option. There are also "easy outs" that are a backwards drill shaped tap that you can use to back out the stripped holes in a screw or bolt. Worst case is drilling out a bolt and re-tapping a hole. If its the bolt in question, you could try using a grinder if you can fit it in there but then again if you cant get it off without rounding the corners then its just going to be worse than grinding off the head and using vice grips. I recommend trying liquid wrench and maybe heating it up and whacking the area with a hammer first before grinding or drilling. Hope this helps! Good luck!
@@roughcutsgarage I tried a variety of those suggestions and the vice grips worked! First time under the hood and learned a lot.
@@thepopeofantelope Glad to hear!
How did the pump hold up so far?
Still going strong with no leaks whatsoever. PS fluid is at the exact same level we topped it up to after installation.
I followed this same process except flushing the return. I haven't gotten the air out of the system still. How long did you have to turn the wheels to get the air out?
Was probably a good 20 or 30 back and forths. We just went until we couldn't hear any bubbles coming from the reservoir.
Probably took 15 - 20 minutes.
Hi, i'm in Canada too, can you please add links to the parts your used... link to pump and hoses, and flywheel part... i need to do the exact same install as you...
We ordered our parts through Lordco. The links in the description are references to the parts from Napa since Lordco doesn't have an online catalogue. The PS pump should come with new gaskets, washers, and the flywheel part. The vacuum lines we just cut to length from generic vacuum line hose. If you call them they should be able to get you everything you need. Hope this helps.
Do you have any play in your steering wheel? If so, how much?
We have some slop in the steering yes. I would say maybe 1/8th full turn of slop.
My pump is leaking alot in my garage , could that be my return hose?
When ours was leaking it was coming right from the pump. In your case, and what i did to rule out hoses, was to take Spray Nine or any other degreaser with water and clean all of the hoses if they are dirty (as they most likely are). Then go for a slow drive and move the wheel a lot and then that may give you a better idea of where it is coming from.
Was your pump squealing like crazy?
Our pump wasn't squeeling no. Mind you we had only had the 4runner for a year at this point and the previous owner said the pump was leaking. Could have been squeeling initially for him before we bought it.
Almost good video, pity a bit dark inside engine bay, can't see a thing when you're down there, sorry. You say, this bolt here, those nuts there ...I can't see what goes where. Anyway, thank you so much.
Yeah it's difficult trying to film how you did something you have never done before without any manuals outside in your driveway. I'll do better next time.
@@roughcutsgarage Thanks for replying. My issue is about elapsed time after disassembling coz just after that i I had a heart attack making me stop for 14 months and now i don't remember much what goes where, that's why I need clearing videos to reassemble
@@roughcutsgarage I've downloaded some f s m from a forum they help a lot, but don't show clearly, and as old as I am, my eyes don't help much 😔