Great job, Looks awesome. I'd recommend using stainless steel staples. You can get them for the industry standard Arrow T-50 staplers. I've also used them to tack down linoleum and keep it from curling right up next to the tub. You can hide them with a thick bead of caulk in the linoleum application. Anyway that way they won't ever rust and show through. Thanks for showing us this product.
Great video , never even heard of this before now , I was able to find a store near me that ordered me a box of 5/ 7' pieces took a week to get in . Thanks 👍
I'm looking into using shower bead on my jobs as well. The old fill and tape seems to fail after a few yrs with the paint flaking away where it meets the tub
Somehow, your video showed up on my list of suggested things. I am doing a drywall project in my bath and gave it much thought about this subject. I have a wood shop and wood shaping tools. So, I am making hardwood trim to serve as the transition between drywall and the tub surround. I think the hardwood will also make a nice transition and I don't need to fan out the plaster work.
Bro what is this exact trim peice? I have to plaster a tub surround in on a rough jagged block. I need dome sort of mesh to bond the plaster to the surround lip
How is it holding up do you like the longevity of it?. I'm just wondering if you're going to get moisture behind the lip... I looks super easy wondering why they don't sell it at big box stores.
I haven't had any issues so far, but the real question is how it will look in 10 or 15yrs. It's mainly sold to contractors. My guess would be that selling directly to contractors is better margins for the company, whereas if you go to big box retailers they will take a huge cut. Then the contractors end up going to the big box vs buying directly from you. Installation isn't to difficult. I think its better then trying to fill the gap with mud, and I have never been big on shimming the drywall out. I think it will last. I also like that a small gap is created between the surround and the shower bead. Filling it with caulk helps to create a moisture barrier.
I had to replace my shower wall (the side with the shower head and handles) and I cut out the drywall that was surrounding it. About 4ish inches from the shower wall. Could I just cut pieces of moisture resistant drywall and place it where the cutout is and use mesh tape and mud it? And then once that's dried do I just use caulk where the drywall meets the shower? There isn't a dealer for this in my area and this is exactly what I'm needing 🤦🏻♂️
You can. If it were me I would cut my drywall back to a stud instead of trying to put in a 4in piece. Its just easier to secure the drywall to 2 studs vs 1. Ya, I wish this stuff was sold at the big box stores. Seems like a lot of people could use this. It really is a nice solution.
I assume you mean hot mud? Or quick set mud. I don't know if I would necessarily say a better option, the benefits is that it drys faster and less shrinking. If you plan to do it all in one day, yes it probably is a better option. I never use hot mud for last coat though.
In most cases I do use paper tape. When taping close to a shower or bath I prefer to use mesh just in case it gets wet. I agree that a good sealer and paint should stop that.
Thank you!!! Your the only video I could find using this product. Unfortunately I already put the trim tex shower bead in with staples. I cooked it on the outside which wasn't so great. Should I start over?
You mean in-between the tub and the trim Trex? I guess I am not exactly sure that you mean when you say you called the outside of the trim Trex? Do you mean you calked over the flange?
You glued the trim Trex to the studs? You need to put up drywall and then the trim Trex is stapled to the drywall. I am going to guess you will need to start over. If that is the situation.
I have dry wall warped from moisture in my shower. Would I be able to just cut out the warped parts and fill it in with mud, sand it, texture it, paint it, and caulk it or is there some other stuff that needs to be done? Is the tape necessary..?
Depends on how big the area you are cutting out is. You have drywall in the shower or around the shower? It sounds like you need to patch several areas in or around your shower. There are lots of videos on how to patch different size holes in drywall. If it's a small area theoretically you could use a quickset mud, fill, sand, etc. But once in get into larger areas you will need to do some kind of patch to fill the hole.
Yes great idea solve my problem was planning to cut out the back of the drywall. Now I've been on a quest to find that product. You stated you ran out of caulk so, how many small tubes did you need?
My shower flange is flush with an outside corner and I can't fur out the wall without impeding the door from opening fully. How can I finish this? Would it work to install trim trex from the flange to the corner and then once that's dry apply a corner bead over the top? Or a no coat corner bead by itself maybe? Something else entirely?
I would probably just install a piece of corner bead and caulk it. I assume what you are wanting to do is build out the flange area so that the tub surround is flush with the corner of the wall. You could try mudding the flange area so that it flush with the surround, then just put corner bead over the corner
@@HomeRepairHub the flange sticks out about 1/4" off the studs. If I just use quick set mud directly over the flange to make it flush with the drywall above it would I flat tape over the flange first with mesh tape?
Unfortunately no. You will have to locate a trim trex supplier in you area and get it from them. Go to the website and search for a local dealer by zip. www.trim-trex.com I would call before going to pick it up. A few people have said it has been out of stock. Ask for trim trex shower bead.
So there are a few options for this scenario. In the video I am using a product called trim trex and that is what I am using to cover the lip of the tub surround. Assuming of course that when you installed the surround it was installed directly to the studs and not the drywall. Another option would be to run the drywall up to the lip and then mud and tape over the lip so that it matches the thickness of the drywall. I suggest mesh tape in this scenario, if you use paper tape and it gets wet it will tear easily. Another option would be to shim the drywall from the wall so that it goes over the lip of the surround, then just run caulk between the drywall and the surround. I am not a big fan of the 3rd option cause I think it's more work to shim the drywall out, but it can be done. Let me know if that helps.
I have a popcorn ceiling in my bathroom. I’ve replaced the drywall around the tub and now am stuck on what to do to join the new drywall to the ceiling. Do I need to remove and replace the ceiling drywall? Or should I scrape off the popcorn, tape/mud the joint? Any advice would be appreciated...
I wouldn't replace the ceiling drywall unless it was damaged, thats a lot of work. If it were me, based off what you have said, I would probably take my 6 inch putty knife and scrape the popcorn off at the corner of the ceiling where it meets the wall. And just do that all around the edge of the ceiling where you are going to tape and mud. If you take a spray bottle of water and wet down the area that you want to scrape, the popcorn should come off easily. I wouldn't take all of the popcorn ceiling down unless you just don't like the look. Tape and mud it, then go get a can of popcorn spray at your local hardware store and just spray that on the spot you taped and mudded. Then paint to match the rest of the ceiling. Hope that helps.
You found it at Home Depot? It had the 2 1/4 inch flange? I was only able to find the standard drywall corner bead there. That's awesome if it's at HD now.
Where can a residential customer purchase trim tex products? I have searched, but cannot find trim text products for residential customers. Thank you in advance for any information.
Go to Trim trex .com. If you click the 3 lines on the top left of the site there is a heading for where to buy. Then you can put in your zip and find a local vendor near you.
I have just started doing a tub and surround replacement at my home and I want to use this as well. My question is, before you add this, do I need to do anything to the edge of the drywall to make sure it is waterproof? I've seen other videos of people installing a tub surround attached to studs with some type of plastic taped up before installation, and I have read about Red Guard.
I didn't use anything like that. I just used a mold and mildew resistant drywall around the tub and surround. That's the different color drywall in the video. I am sure you could use a product like that to waterproof the edge of the drywall. I have never used red guard.
Will that work if I have a step on from the shower wall flange to the drywall? Because drywall is behind the entire shower flange and I now have a 1/4 lip to cover up somehow. Any ideas on that?
If you were going to use that you could cut the lip down and then just use drywall mud to float it out on the wall. At about 3:45 in the video you can see I am cutting the lip that sits on the surround flange down. You could essentially cut that off then staple the trim trex to the wall like I do in the video and then just mud it and float your mud out a bit farther so that the it hides the flange and the curve in the wall. Or just leave the flange showing.
You will have to check your area to see if there is a vendor near you. They apparently don't sell it in the big box stores in the states. Interestingly enough, I have heard home depot does sell it in Canada.
I was a tile installer for over 40 years and not once did I see anyone do this, they always ran the drywall over the flange. These were so called professionals. I usually had to cut the drywall out and finish it before I could tile around it. New construction and remodels were all the same. The general would ask how come you charge $300 for 1 row of tile around the fiberglass enclosure? I'm retired now and glad I don't have to deal with this bs anymore.
It sounds like Home Depot carries a tear away L bead but its not as wide as this product. Does anyone know who carries or ships the item? Looks like its Trimtex TT9358.
Google trim trex shower bead. You should see trim trex's website. Open that and on the top left hand side you will see 3 bars. Select that and there should be an option for where to buy. Put in your zip and it will locate a supplier close to you.
@@brandonfontaine285 You might be able to expand your area and find another supplier. I had to search the website for the supplier I used. Unfortunately I don't believe any of the big box stores carry it.
Hello there, I hope you get this! So we live close by Reno NV (largest city near our small town) and I’ve been searching where to find the product you used around the tub. Home Depot and Lowe’s don’t sell it there.. Ive google searched it and I’m stumped. I looked at your links as well and maybe I’m missing it, but I don’t see it. Can you help me?? Thank you!!
Unfortunately this is not sold by any big box retailers. If you go out to trim trex's website there is a section on where to buy. Then you can put in your location and it will identify a supplier close to you. You will just have to contact them and see what they have in stock. I don't know if it can be ordered or not.
Different side flange. Unfortunately the stuff you get at your local hardware store doesn't have a flange wide enough to bridge the gap between the drywall and the edge of the surround.
@@HomeRepairHub Pre-fill the gap with hot mud and set the trim in that up against the flange. Then immediately use more hot mud for your first coat over the flange. The two layers of mud will lock the trim in place through all the holes in the trim. No adhesive, no staples needed. Ready for another coat in an hour.
At about the 5 minute mark I go over how I apply the first coat. There is a lip on the trim trex that I use as a starting point. I use that small lip as a guide for all coats.
Finally Tracked Down how to get this product. $75 for five pieces of plastic, ridiculous! If someone claims to be a dealer they should carry the product not make you have to call the manufacturer get the part number tell the dealer how to order the part number and they get a piece of the action and you have to pay for it. Protectionism gone too far ! I really like how you did your work though. Trim-tex should offer the product directly. Cut out the middleman who doesn't want to do is job anyway and sell it to the people who want the product. Trim-tex did the R&D and now they're not moving the product. $75 for five pieces of plastic or marble??????
I paid around $2.50 for an 8 ft piece. This over course should very a bit by location, but it seems strange that it would be that much. I would check a different supplier. That seems very strange. Or marble???? I don't think this product comes in marble. The Sherwin Williams around me is listed as a supplier around me.
Tearing off the flange? This video went over using a product called trim tex for covering the gap between the tub flange and the drywall. I am a bit confused on your comment. Thanks for the feedback.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
A great video. Thanks. I am just installing a shower and had no idea how to cover/hide the flanges. I will sleep better to-night.
You're a lifesaver. I Just installed a tub surround and was stumped how I was going to get it sealed
Ditto, thanks!
This^^^
Rona / Lowes carries this in Canada.
Thanks so much for the video :) Helped a lot.
Use trim tex spray adhesive to install the shower bead then staple
Great job, Looks awesome. I'd recommend using stainless steel staples. You can get them for the industry standard Arrow T-50 staplers. I've also used them to tack down linoleum and keep it from curling right up next to the tub. You can hide them with a thick bead of caulk in the linoleum application. Anyway that way they won't ever rust and show through. Thanks for showing us this product.
Great video , never even heard of this before now , I was able to find a store near me that ordered me a box of 5/ 7' pieces took a week to get in . Thanks 👍
I'm looking into using shower bead on my jobs as well. The old fill and tape seems to fail after a few yrs with the paint flaking away where it meets the tub
Just what I was looking for! Thanks man!
I actually ripped it down and routed out some pine boards and used it to cover the edge of the shower. It worked out great. And has never leaked.
Where did you buy this at? I have been trying to find it.
Considering I’m not into learning how to miter corners on wood trim this and mudding is a doable possibility.
Somehow, your video showed up on my list of suggested things. I am doing a drywall project in my bath and gave it much thought about this subject. I have a wood shop and wood shaping tools. So, I am making hardwood trim to serve as the transition between drywall and the tub surround. I think the hardwood will also make a nice transition and I don't need to fan out the plaster work.
Bro what is this exact trim peice? I have to plaster a tub surround in on a rough jagged block. I need dome sort of mesh to bond the plaster to the surround lip
www.trim-tex.com/where-to-buy
@@HomeRepairHubthanks I was able to find two possible dealers for this trim in my local town .
Ok ive been a drywall finisher for 47 years, excuses me ,im just old school handfinisher looks like a lot of extra work to me. God bless
Ya and the craftsmanship of your work shows
Looks like shit
Dude my father did drywall, i did it for 6+ years and all i can do is laugh!!
awesome video.....good job on the bathroom
How is it holding up do you like the longevity of it?. I'm just wondering if you're going to get moisture behind the lip... I looks super easy wondering why they don't sell it at big box stores.
I haven't had any issues so far, but the real question is how it will look in 10 or 15yrs. It's mainly sold to contractors. My guess would be that selling directly to contractors is better margins for the company, whereas if you go to big box retailers they will take a huge cut. Then the contractors end up going to the big box vs buying directly from you. Installation isn't to difficult. I think its better then trying to fill the gap with mud, and I have never been big on shimming the drywall out. I think it will last. I also like that a small gap is created between the surround and the shower bead. Filling it with caulk helps to create a moisture barrier.
I had to replace my shower wall (the side with the shower head and handles) and I cut out the drywall that was surrounding it. About 4ish inches from the shower wall. Could I just cut pieces of moisture resistant drywall and place it where the cutout is and use mesh tape and mud it? And then once that's dried do I just use caulk where the drywall meets the shower? There isn't a dealer for this in my area and this is exactly what I'm needing 🤦🏻♂️
You can. If it were me I would cut my drywall back to a stud instead of trying to put in a 4in piece. Its just easier to secure the drywall to 2 studs vs 1. Ya, I wish this stuff was sold at the big box stores. Seems like a lot of people could use this. It really is a nice solution.
Wouldn't Dura Bond be a better choice for the drywall compound?
I assume you mean hot mud? Or quick set mud. I don't know if I would necessarily say a better option, the benefits is that it drys faster and less shrinking. If you plan to do it all in one day, yes it probably is a better option. I never use hot mud for last coat though.
Thank you so much, just what I needed!
Excellent solution, best so far. Genius!
I've been using paper tape with hot mud for years and never had a problem. Just have to use a good primer and paint.
In most cases I do use paper tape. When taping close to a shower or bath I prefer to use mesh just in case it gets wet. I agree that a good sealer and paint should stop that.
Can paint it before pulling the tab.
Sure
Thank you!!! Your the only video I could find using this product. Unfortunately I already put the trim tex shower bead in with staples. I cooked it on the outside which wasn't so great. Should I start over?
What do you mean cooked it on the outside?
@@HomeRepairHub Soory typing error. I meant calked the outside of the trim tex
You mean in-between the tub and the trim Trex? I guess I am not exactly sure that you mean when you say you called the outside of the trim Trex? Do you mean you calked over the flange?
@@HomeRepairHub no outside the trim tex. I glued the trim tex to the wood.
You glued the trim Trex to the studs? You need to put up drywall and then the trim Trex is stapled to the drywall. I am going to guess you will need to start over. If that is the situation.
Awesome technique and tutorial! Thanks a lot for making this video!
What type of mud did you use?
I just used all purpose joint compound
Us home owners just buy it pre made in a bucket, You mix it correct? I heard "hot" mud is better but I'm afraid I'll mix it wrong.
Did you drywall tap your inside corners before putting the trim tex over it?
I assume you are talk on top of the shower. Yes you should tape your inside corners first.
I have dry wall warped from moisture in my shower. Would I be able to just cut out the warped parts and fill it in with mud, sand it, texture it, paint it, and caulk it or is there some other stuff that needs to be done? Is the tape necessary..?
Depends on how big the area you are cutting out is. You have drywall in the shower or around the shower? It sounds like you need to patch several areas in or around your shower. There are lots of videos on how to patch different size holes in drywall. If it's a small area theoretically you could use a quickset mud, fill, sand, etc. But once in get into larger areas you will need to do some kind of patch to fill the hole.
Yes great idea solve my problem was planning to cut out the back of the drywall. Now I've been on a quest to find that product. You stated you ran out of caulk so, how many small tubes did you need?
Its been a while, but I believe it was between 3 and 4.
My shower flange is flush with an outside corner and I can't fur out the wall without impeding the door from opening fully. How can I finish this? Would it work to install trim trex from the flange to the corner and then once that's dry apply a corner bead over the top? Or a no coat corner bead by itself maybe? Something else entirely?
I would probably just install a piece of corner bead and caulk it. I assume what you are wanting to do is build out the flange area so that the tub surround is flush with the corner of the wall. You could try mudding the flange area so that it flush with the surround, then just put corner bead over the corner
@@HomeRepairHub the flange sticks out about 1/4" off the studs. If I just use quick set mud directly over the flange to make it flush with the drywall above it would I flat tape over the flange first with mesh tape?
The 90 degree trim tex is rip away its not supposed to stay I thought. After mudding it rips away
Thanks for the video can I get the material from home Depot or Lowe's please
Unfortunately no. You will have to locate a trim trex supplier in you area and get it from them. Go to the website and search for a local dealer by zip. www.trim-trex.com I would call before going to pick it up. A few people have said it has been out of stock. Ask for trim trex shower bead.
@@HomeRepairHub that website is no longer on the web
We just bought a tub/shower surround and installed it but what do we do with the outside lips that are on it?
So there are a few options for this scenario. In the video I am using a product called trim trex and that is what I am using to cover the lip of the tub surround. Assuming of course that when you installed the surround it was installed directly to the studs and not the drywall. Another option would be to run the drywall up to the lip and then mud and tape over the lip so that it matches the thickness of the drywall. I suggest mesh tape in this scenario, if you use paper tape and it gets wet it will tear easily. Another option would be to shim the drywall from the wall so that it goes over the lip of the surround, then just run caulk between the drywall and the surround. I am not a big fan of the 3rd option cause I think it's more work to shim the drywall out, but it can be done. Let me know if that helps.
I have a popcorn ceiling in my bathroom. I’ve replaced the drywall around the tub and now am stuck on what to do to join the new drywall to the ceiling. Do I need to remove and replace the ceiling drywall? Or should I scrape off the popcorn, tape/mud the joint? Any advice would be appreciated...
I wouldn't replace the ceiling drywall unless it was damaged, thats a lot of work. If it were me, based off what you have said, I would probably take my 6 inch putty knife and scrape the popcorn off at the corner of the ceiling where it meets the wall. And just do that all around the edge of the ceiling where you are going to tape and mud. If you take a spray bottle of water and wet down the area that you want to scrape, the popcorn should come off easily. I wouldn't take all of the popcorn ceiling down unless you just don't like the look. Tape and mud it, then go get a can of popcorn spray at your local hardware store and just spray that on the spot you taped and mudded. Then paint to match the rest of the ceiling. Hope that helps.
I found and bought the stuff he stapled around the tub at Home Depot. My issue is I have a wider gap to fill in.
You found it at Home Depot? It had the 2 1/4 inch flange? I was only able to find the standard drywall corner bead there. That's awesome if it's at HD now.
@ DIY Home Repair,c an you provide a link for the corner trim that you used here?
www.trim-trex.com, you will then have to find a dealer in your area. The product is trim trex shower bead.
Where can a residential customer purchase trim tex products?
I have searched, but cannot find trim text products for residential customers.
Thank you in advance for any information.
Sorry about the delayed response. www.trim-tex.com/where-to-buy
Where did you buy the trimtex? I can't find it anywhere.
Go to Trim trex .com. If you click the 3 lines on the top left of the site there is a heading for where to buy. Then you can put in your zip and find a local vendor near you.
I have just started doing a tub and surround replacement at my home and I want to use this as well. My question is, before you add this, do I need to do anything to the edge of the drywall to make sure it is waterproof? I've seen other videos of people installing a tub surround attached to studs with some type of plastic taped up before installation, and I have read about Red Guard.
I didn't use anything like that. I just used a mold and mildew resistant drywall around the tub and surround. That's the different color drywall in the video. I am sure you could use a product like that to waterproof the edge of the drywall. I have never used red guard.
You might staple plastic to the wall if shower is on an exterior wall and they do this for condensation.
How well do you like the results?
I am happy with results so far. I haven't seen any issues.
Better to use spray adhesive (contact cement) and no staples.
Will that work if I have a step on from the shower wall flange to the drywall? Because drywall is behind the entire shower flange and I now have a 1/4 lip to cover up somehow. Any ideas on that?
If you were going to use that you could cut the lip down and then just use drywall mud to float it out on the wall. At about 3:45 in the video you can see I am cutting the lip that sits on the surround flange down. You could essentially cut that off then staple the trim trex to the wall like I do in the video and then just mud it and float your mud out a bit farther so that the it hides the flange and the curve in the wall. Or just leave the flange showing.
@@HomeRepairHub nice thx for the advice! I'll try it.
Anyone have a link to this trim piece? I'm finding the wrong ones on home depot's site.
www.trim-tex.com/where-to-buy
You will have to check your area to see if there is a vendor near you. They apparently don't sell it in the big box stores in the states. Interestingly enough, I have heard home depot does sell it in Canada.
I was a tile installer for over 40 years and not once did I see anyone do this, they always ran the drywall over the flange. These were so called professionals. I usually had to cut the drywall out and finish it before I could tile around it. New construction and remodels were all the same. The general would ask how come you charge $300 for 1 row of tile around the fiberglass enclosure? I'm retired now and glad I don't have to deal with this bs anymore.
It sounds like Home Depot carries a tear away L bead but its not as wide as this product. Does anyone know who carries or ships the item? Looks like its Trimtex TT9358.
The only place I have heard of it being sold in a store is Canada. Otherwise you have to go to the trimtex website
Yep can’t find this product either in California wtf??
How far does your drywall stick out over the shower flange?
The drywall goes up to the flange not over it. Are you asking about a specific spot in the video?
Where can I buy the trim tex? I can't find anyone any my area who carries this and the online places are out of my shipping area they told me.
Google trim trex shower bead. You should see trim trex's website. Open that and on the top left hand side you will see 3 bars. Select that and there should be an option for where to buy. Put in your zip and it will locate a supplier close to you.
@@HomeRepairHub 84 lumber was listed but when I called them they said they don't have it
@@brandonfontaine285 You might be able to expand your area and find another supplier. I had to search the website for the supplier I used. Unfortunately I don't believe any of the big box stores carry it.
Trim-Tex not Trim Trex. Been using it for years, love it!
I wish i could see a close up and see how it really looks i have to put a finish on a tub kit this part is the worst...ok flange tears off
Where do you buy this stuff at Home Depot? I don't see it at all?
You have to find a trim trex supplier local. Go out to the trim trex website and check out where to buy
Nice
Where to buy this in a hurry?
Trim-tex.com. you will have to find a supplier in your area. Sorry about the delayed response.
Hello there, I hope you get this! So we live close by Reno NV (largest city near our small town) and I’ve been searching where to find the product you used around the tub. Home Depot and Lowe’s don’t sell it there.. Ive google searched it and I’m stumped. I looked at your links as well and maybe I’m missing it, but I don’t see it. Can you help me?? Thank you!!
Unfortunately this is not sold by any big box retailers. If you go out to trim trex's website there is a section on where to buy. Then you can put in your location and it will identify a supplier close to you. You will just have to contact them and see what they have in stock. I don't know if it can be ordered or not.
Also where did you find it at?
I was happy with the results.
www.trim-tex.com/where-buy/us-dealer-finder/
Does this prevent having to caulk or did you still have to caulk around?
No. A small gap is created between to tub and the shower bead. You still have to run a bead of caulk in that gap
Really great solution but instead of the staples would have used like a 3M spray or something similar
The manufacturer recommends a spray adhesive and stainless steel staples.
Get that caulk in there!
There is no reason not to use paper tape, because if your wall is getting so wet that the paper tape is getting wet, you drywall is already ruined.
Just get tear away bead at HD or Lowe’s. Same thing and dirt cheap.
Different side flange. Unfortunately the stuff you get at your local hardware store doesn't have a flange wide enough to bridge the gap between the drywall and the edge of the surround.
@@HomeRepairHub Pre-fill the gap with hot mud and set the trim in that up against the flange. Then immediately use more hot mud for your first coat over the flange. The two layers of mud will lock the trim in place through all the holes in the trim. No adhesive, no staples needed. Ready for another coat in an hour.
cool
"Put as much caulk in there as you want" ... brother its always 100% due to running out
I would rather install acrylic sheet and cut it to fit over the drywall
After 30 years of hand squeeze staplers I finally bought a pneumatic stapler, Talk about better....wholly s**t.
What brand did you get? Thanks!
@@leeb.7188 Brand x Menards, probably made in china, but it looks nice and works great.
@@stclairstclair : Thanks!
I wanted to see the tecnique when applying mud but u fast foward it , that sucks
At about the 5 minute mark I go over how I apply the first coat. There is a lip on the trim trex that I use as a starting point. I use that small lip as a guide for all coats.
Finally Tracked Down how to get this product. $75 for five pieces of plastic, ridiculous! If someone claims to be a dealer they should carry the product not make you have to call the manufacturer get the part number tell the dealer how to order the part number and they get a piece of the action and you have to pay for it. Protectionism gone too far ! I really like how you did your work though. Trim-tex should offer the product directly. Cut out the middleman who doesn't want to do is job anyway and sell it to the people who want the product. Trim-tex did the R&D and now they're not moving the product. $75 for five pieces of plastic or marble??????
I paid around $2.50 for an 8 ft piece. This over course should very a bit by location, but it seems strange that it would be that much. I would check a different supplier. That seems very strange. Or marble???? I don't think this product comes in marble. The Sherwin Williams around me is listed as a supplier around me.
To bad you did show close ops
Too bad you didn't finish high-school
Why wouldn't you have shown tearing the flange off? Isn't that the point of this vide Good job missing the mark
Tearing off the flange? This video went over using a product called trim tex for covering the gap between the tub flange and the drywall. I am a bit confused on your comment. Thanks for the feedback.
I think it's pronounced Calk, not cok:)
LOL!!😂
No thanks
To much work man and money ,I think you're just trying to promote home depot products
Is not a HD product. It's called Trim tex. I thought it was a good solution to the issue I was having. I am not affiliated with them in anyway.
Where did you get the Trim Tex product from? I can’t find it anywhere
www.trim-tex.com/where-to-buy
You will have to see if there is a supplier in your area.