Thanks so much Jonathan. I have been using quality 10 mm clear glass with all sides taped to 1 mm to hold the glass away from the film and scanner glass. This prevents newton rings and holds the film flat and in place. I have a piece of tape as a handle at the top of the glass and rest the bottom of the glass agents the bottom of the scanning opening and lower the top of the glass down with the tape handle over the film. There MUST be at least 25 mm space between the top of the glass and the top of the scanner opening. I also use a strip spacer of minilla folder paper taped along one side of the scanner opening as a fixed guide to align the film and as a spacer to keep the glass from pressing too hard on the film in preventing newton rings. I have been doing this for several years and many thousand film images, mostly medium format negative film. Again thanks for this very informative tatorial.
Thanks for the tutorial. I bought an older Epson scanner for $20, but it didn’t have the film holders. Using a piece of glass from a photo frame for now.
Yes, that would help not cut your finger but it will not prevent the glass from scratching the glass of the scanner's bed. Glass can scratch glass very easily and a rough glass can scratch the glass just as easy as that sharp edge. In fact, by roughing up the surface, you're making it easier to scratch the scanner's glass by providing more rough surface edges. I know, I was in the glass industry for over 40 years.
Hi Jonathan, love the tutorials! I have bought this better scanning mount for the same purpose and have followed this dry mount scan exactly. I’m scanning a strip of 35mm and am using the included cut out light mask. I keep getting flare from the sprockets that bleed on to the actual image. The film is flat and my height is optimally adjusted so I’m not sure why I’m getting this. I have tried attaching the film to different areas of the glass, covered the scanner so no outside light is effecting it but still have these orange flares cropping up. Any idea how to get rid of them?
Hi Ben, those flares are from the scanner’s built in light source, not external light. The scanner’s LED occupies the entire width of the scan area, obviously a lot wider than your 35mm negative! A few things I’d try would be re adjusting your mask, turning the negative 90 degrees from your current orientation and if those both fail adding a few more layers of the plastic masking to avoid that ‘raking’ light from the sides. Best of luck with it!
Flatbed scanners give sharpest images when the film plane is about 3~3.5mm above the scanner's galss surface. So my best recommendation is that you get 2 ANR glass and place the film sandwiched between the 2 ANR surfaces of the 2 pieces of ANR glass. My ANR glass is 2mm thick, so I raised the glass from the scanner by 1.2mm, and this gives me the sharpest results.. I'm curious about your thoughts... No need to tape the film on the glass,, put one ANR glass on the scanner, place the film, and cover it with the 2nd ANR glass...
Hey Jonathan, thank you for taking the time to make this video. The better scanning website isn't exactly intuitive so I wanted to ask if they supplied the film masks? On their website they noted they have over 20 available masks for all film negative sizes but I can't seem to find where to select that option. I see the option of where you can select the quantity but that's it. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Kenneth.
Hi Kenneth, unfortunately the guy who ran betterscanning hasn’t been in business for quite a while. He’s gone quiet via email and the most recent person I’ve heard has been in contact with him was in January
hey, great video! I was actually trying to figure this out myself a few months back. I ended up just scanning directly on the flatbed but the sharpness wasn't the best and I'm using a v600 scanner. Someone told me the best sharpness in digitally scanning is when using a digital camera and a tripod and just taking a photo of it using a light box. Could you do a video on that? And on how to get the best sharpness out of a scan? Maybe even trying to compare a digital image to a scanned film negative as well? thanks!
Takeimng a picture of the image is not very good compared to a "real" scan. Unless the original is very good and properly exposed the copy will have extreme contrast and will appear as an obvious copy. This method is much easier and faster, but the results are noticably poorer.
When you're just using the ANR glass directly on the flatbed. Is the matte side facing down? And do you put the negative under or on top with matte side facing where?
Do you have any advice on how to avoid these Newtons rings on my negative scans? I'm scanning with a flatbed and a 35mm film holder but sometimes it comes that the negative somehow touches the glass surface. This happens most likely with negatives that haven't been flattened by the lab and are a bit rolled...
If you are in no rush, put the negatives in their sleeves (carefully clean them of any dust first) and then place them under a heavy stack of books for a few days. It helps flatten them to avoid Newton rings. Alternatively, you can use small pieces of paper (thick enough to be rigid, not thick enough to prevent the holder from closing) placed in the holder at about the middle of the strip: this prevents you from scanning all frames at once (most you can do is five) but it offers additional support to the negative and is enough to prevent it from touching the glass in the middle.
Jonathan, thanks for the video tips. I think it is challenging to orient the negative so when scanned the image is perfectly square. It is so easy to tape the negative askew a little. Do you use a ruler or other device to keep the negatives completely square? Thanks!
Unfortunately this is the only cheap method to scan with flat bed scanners. Next step can be a film scanner like Nikon 8000/9000 with glass holder for medium format. So 35mm incl. sprokes is easy possible. With a little trick also MF up to 63mm height. But for most users flat bed scanners will do the job.
Hey Jonathan! Great content man. Can you start linking items in the description of your videos? Sometimes it's hard to find the best place to get some of this stuff. Thanks man!
It’s for looking at negatives and slides yeah. Sometimes I use my monitor set to a white screen but it’s not as easy if it’s vertical. You also can’t use a loupe against a monitor because it shows the pixels.
Hi Julian, I just typed 'Light box' into amazon and bought the cheapest. It's not very good and I've had to modify the power connection but it's from a brand called 'icoco'
Hi Jonathan! Once you have prescanned the film in silverfast, how do you correct the white balance? Because when you include the borders in the selection, the white balance is totally wrong of course. Thank you!
Same question I had. Silverfast specifically says to eliminate the borders before applying any adjustments. I guess you could turn off “auto” in the advanced sensitivity setting in negafix.
I am having the same issues but with the epson scan software. Any tips and tricks on getting around the incorrect white balance while including the black boarders?
hi you mentioned that the ANR glass in holder method lets you use the infrared dust feature of the scanner? does the ANR glass on flatbed method not allow for this? whats the main difference? thanks for the video!
Hi! Thanks for the video. I did all your steps and then went into Silver Fast to scan but every time i included the borders in my frame, it turns washed out and blue. Do you have a fix to this?
The reason it happens is because SF looks at what’s in the red box. You have to tell it to ignore the edges otherwise it goes wrong. You can use the visualise button to see a smaller blue box where readings are taken
@@JonathanNotley Wow. Thanks so much for your quick response! Unfortunately I think I might need to upgrade my SF. I have the regular 8 version. What version do you have?
As one who worked with glass for over 40 years, you should have seen me squirm when you placed that glass plat on your scanner's surface. Not good no matter how gently you lay it down. As long as you have some scotch tape, place it around the perimeter. Yes it will raise the glass about 1 micron but that might also remove the Newton rings issue. It doesn't take much at all for glass to scratch glass. Just sayin'. Good luck!
@@michaelfilofficial Glass can scratch glass, it's that simple. As I stated, you can avoid the possible scratches by simply laying a strip of scotch tape along the edges of where the glass will lie. If you double over the ends of the tape to create a "handle," then it's easy to remove. (Be sure these handles extend beyond the length of the glass you are placing on top so as to not cause the glass plate to lie unevenly.) The ONLY remedy of scratches on your scanner's surface is to replace it. Much easier to just avoid the problem in the first place. Good luck!
Finally someone makes a video about this! Thank you 🙏
Thanks so much Jonathan. I have been using quality 10 mm clear glass with all sides taped to 1 mm to hold the glass away from the film and scanner glass. This prevents newton rings and holds the film flat and in place. I have a piece of tape as a handle at the top of the glass and rest the bottom of the glass agents the bottom of the scanning opening and lower the top of the glass down with the tape handle over the film.
There MUST be at least 25 mm space between the top of the glass and the top of the scanner opening.
I also use a strip spacer of minilla folder paper taped along one side of the scanner opening as a fixed guide to align the film and as a spacer to keep the glass from pressing too hard on the film in preventing newton rings. I have been doing this for several years and many thousand film images, mostly medium format negative film. Again thanks for this very informative tatorial.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks man!
it is very good to showing to us. Finally you have made a video about this! Thank you so much 🙏
Jonathan Notley please reply me massage
Thanks for the tutorial. I bought an older Epson scanner for $20, but it didn’t have the film holders. Using a piece of glass from a photo frame for now.
Long overdue!! thanks alot
Thanks!
You can polish the edges of the glas with sandpaper. It's as simple as that.
Yes, that would help not cut your finger but it will not prevent the glass from scratching the glass of the scanner's bed. Glass can scratch glass very easily and a rough glass can scratch the glass just as easy as that sharp edge. In fact, by roughing up the surface, you're making it easier to scratch the scanner's glass by providing more rough surface edges. I know, I was in the glass industry for over 40 years.
Hi Jonathan, love the tutorials! I have bought this better scanning mount for the same purpose and have followed this dry mount scan exactly. I’m scanning a strip of 35mm and am using the included cut out light mask. I keep getting flare from the sprockets that bleed on to the actual image. The film is flat and my height is optimally adjusted so I’m not sure why I’m getting this. I have tried attaching the film to different areas of the glass, covered the scanner so no outside light is effecting it but still have these orange flares cropping up. Any idea how to get rid of them?
Hi Ben, those flares are from the scanner’s built in light source, not external light. The scanner’s LED occupies the entire width of the scan area, obviously a lot wider than your 35mm negative! A few things I’d try would be re adjusting your mask, turning the negative 90 degrees from your current orientation and if those both fail adding a few more layers of the plastic masking to avoid that ‘raking’ light from the sides. Best of luck with it!
🙏🏻 great content. Thanks for sharing. Don’t like the high pitch repeating soundtrack though.
Flatbed scanners give sharpest images when the film plane is about 3~3.5mm above the scanner's galss surface. So my best recommendation is that you get 2 ANR glass and place the film sandwiched between the 2 ANR surfaces of the 2 pieces of ANR glass. My ANR glass is 2mm thick, so I raised the glass from the scanner by 1.2mm, and this gives me the sharpest results.. I'm curious about your thoughts... No need to tape the film on the glass,, put one ANR glass on the scanner, place the film, and cover it with the 2nd ANR glass...
Hey Jonathan, thank you for taking the time to make this video. The better scanning website isn't exactly intuitive so I wanted to ask if they supplied the film masks? On their website they noted they have over 20 available masks for all film negative sizes but I can't seem to find where to select that option. I see the option of where you can select the quantity but that's it. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Kenneth.
Hi Kenneth, unfortunately the guy who ran betterscanning hasn’t been in business for quite a while. He’s gone quiet via email and the most recent person I’ve heard has been in contact with him was in January
hey, great video! I was actually trying to figure this out myself a few months back. I ended up just scanning directly on the flatbed but the sharpness wasn't the best and I'm using a v600 scanner. Someone told me the best sharpness in digitally scanning is when using a digital camera and a tripod and just taking a photo of it using a light box. Could you do a video on that? And on how to get the best sharpness out of a scan? Maybe even trying to compare a digital image to a scanned film negative as well? thanks!
Takeimng a picture of the image is not very good compared to a "real" scan. Unless the original is very good and properly exposed the copy will have extreme contrast and will appear as an obvious copy. This method is much easier and faster, but the results are noticably poorer.
try wet mount scanning it works good too on flatbeds.
is it the same process as these for color negative 35mm film? Just wondering how you invert the colors once they are scanned
It’s the same for all film. Your scanning settings depend on the type you’re using and this just shows how to keep the borders in the frame.
How are your negatives in color already? Im not too familiar with film but most ive seen are inverted negatives
These aren’t negatives, they’re positives! Check out my latest video about ‘Provia’, that’s what this is
When you're just using the ANR glass directly on the flatbed. Is the matte side facing down? And do you put the negative under or on top with matte side facing where?
The matte side of the ANR glass must always touch the negative, that's what prevents the newton rings.
I put the film flat on scanner glass and it works, what’s the advantage of adding a glass? Thank you for sharing
The film will want to curl and warp as it warms up. The glass keeps the negatives flat and in place.
“Scanning” with a camera and light table?
Do you have any advice on how to avoid these Newtons rings on my negative scans? I'm scanning with a flatbed and a 35mm film holder but sometimes it comes that the negative somehow touches the glass surface. This happens most likely with negatives that haven't been flattened by the lab and are a bit rolled...
If you are in no rush, put the negatives in their sleeves (carefully clean them of any dust first) and then place them under a heavy stack of books for a few days. It helps flatten them to avoid Newton rings.
Alternatively, you can use small pieces of paper (thick enough to be rigid, not thick enough to prevent the holder from closing) placed in the holder at about the middle of the strip: this prevents you from scanning all frames at once (most you can do is five) but it offers additional support to the negative and is enough to prevent it from touching the glass in the middle.
@@psychoticlime9940 Thank you very much I'll try it
Thanks for all the pro nerding Jonathan! Really appreciate it. What's that light table you're using?
Jonathan, thanks for the video tips. I think it is challenging to orient the negative so when scanned the image is perfectly square. It is so easy to tape the negative askew a little. Do you use a ruler or other device to keep the negatives completely square? Thanks!
Unfortunately this is the only cheap method to scan with flat bed scanners. Next step can be a film scanner like Nikon 8000/9000 with glass holder for medium format. So 35mm incl. sprokes is easy possible. With a little trick also MF up to 63mm height. But for most users flat bed scanners will do the job.
Hey Jonathan! Great content man. Can you start linking items in the description of your videos? Sometimes it's hard to find the best place to get some of this stuff. Thanks man!
Also, what is that light tablet used for? Do you just use it to view your negatives or slide film before you actually scan them?
It’s for looking at negatives and slides yeah. Sometimes I use my monitor set to a white screen but it’s not as easy if it’s vertical. You also can’t use a loupe against a monitor because it shows the pixels.
Did you purchase the better scanning "dry and fluid mounting" version ?
Did you buy ur luminar table on amazone? Searching for one :) costing 27euro?
Thanks for the tips!
Hi Julian, I just typed 'Light box' into amazon and bought the cheapest. It's not very good and I've had to modify the power connection but it's from a brand called 'icoco'
Hi Jonathan! Once you have prescanned the film in silverfast, how do you correct the white balance? Because when you include the borders in the selection, the white balance is totally wrong of course. Thank you!
Same question I had. Silverfast specifically says to eliminate the borders before applying any adjustments. I guess you could turn off “auto” in the advanced sensitivity setting in negafix.
I am having the same issues but with the epson scan software. Any tips and tricks on getting around the incorrect white balance while including the black boarders?
hi you mentioned that the ANR glass in holder method lets you use the infrared dust feature of the scanner? does the ANR glass on flatbed method not allow for this? whats the main difference? thanks for the video!
Hey Jonathan, I'm really into your portable light-pad here. What's the brand/model?
exactly same question!
Hi! Thanks for the video. I did all your steps and then went into Silver Fast to scan but every time i included the borders in my frame, it turns washed out and blue. Do you have a fix to this?
Go into preferences and set ‘frame inset’ to 40
The reason it happens is because SF looks at what’s in the red box. You have to tell it to ignore the edges otherwise it goes wrong. You can use the visualise button to see a smaller blue box where readings are taken
@@JonathanNotley Wow. Thanks so much for your quick response! Unfortunately I think I might need to upgrade my SF. I have the regular 8 version. What version do you have?
@@JonathanNotley hi where do you find the frame inset option
@@hannahbon8482 hi Hannah did you ever figure out the problem you were having?
How did you do to have positives in this format?
Matiashnn Kodak ektachrome
Can i full frame scan with an Epson v600?
Yes, the Epson V600 is very similar to the 700/800 models, just a bit older
Could you link the websites where we can find these products??
Paola Lopez betterscanning.com
i liked the ones from 'scan tech' better
2:29 Why is it gonna damage the negative?
As one who worked with glass for over 40 years, you should have seen me squirm when you placed that glass plat on your scanner's surface. Not good no matter how gently you lay it down. As long as you have some scotch tape, place it around the perimeter. Yes it will raise the glass about 1 micron but that might also remove the Newton rings issue. It doesn't take much at all for glass to scratch glass. Just sayin'. Good luck!
I do the same thing. Does this damage the scanner surface?
@@michaelfilofficial Glass can scratch glass, it's that simple. As I stated, you can avoid the possible scratches by simply laying a strip of scotch tape along the edges of where the glass will lie. If you double over the ends of the tape to create a "handle," then it's easy to remove. (Be sure these handles extend beyond the length of the glass you are placing on top so as to not cause the glass plate to lie unevenly.) The ONLY remedy of scratches on your scanner's surface is to replace it. Much easier to just avoid the problem in the first place. Good luck!
Why does he look so much like justin bieber its actually scary
I sing just like him too