How to Scan Colour Film (Ft. Silverfast 8.8)
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2018
- Showing you some tips and tricks for scanning your Colour negatives at home.
Black-and-White video: • How to Scan Black-and-...
Slide Video: • How to Scan Slides (Ft... - Навчання та стиль
Great tutorial Jonathan, very clear, concise and informative 👍🙏
Appreciated those two seconds at 3:48 where your rocket blower was in perfect sync with the beat.
I'm impressed with the scanner, your results are SO much sharper at 1:1 than 90% of the examples I've seen online. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Thanks! The trick is to adjust your film tray to the correct height and use fancy lenses ;)
Thanks for sharing, it is a very thorough explantation of all functions. In practice, I do a very minimal adjustment with Silverfast as it takes too long to adkjust every picture one by pone when you have a lot of work and I do all the editing with Lightroom. There are still some options that I use systematically on some series of photos like dust removal because it is very efficient in Silverfast.
Thank you so incredibly much for this! I just got Silverfast a month or so ago and this really helped me understand it better. Also, this might be the best, most thought through tutorial on any topic that I have ever seen. Great job!
You’re welcome! If you like this then check out my slide/black and white ones too - they’re very similar but you might find some of the specifics useful!
Also, do you have a place where you publish your photos? I'd love to follow your work.
My Instagram handle is @j_notley
Yes, I have seen it just now. I will look into that later on!
Thank you! I just followed you. Great stuff there, man!
Great video man, thank you. I just did my first scan with Silverfast and your video was helpful.
Although you probably won’t read this, just wanted to thank you for your excellent video on scanning color. It was my basis today to learn how to scan two 120 rolls of Portra 400. Without your tips my resulta would have been quite disastrous.
Thank You !! i'm going to the B/W video now :)
Excellent walk-through. Thank you.
This is wonderful, thank you so much for this video.
Phenomenal video! Thank you so much!!!!
optional tip: a Milty Zerostat 3 antistatic pistol (or another tool like this) could help to avoid new dust on film strip surface after blowing
Excellent Video, thank you!
Thank you for this video!! I learned allot!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, Jonathan, thanks for your wonderful tutorials. I've seen them all. My question is: when I scan my films and slides, I often get a very annoying blue shadow around some objects. I've tried to remove it to no avail. Is it a matter of bad storage of the films (they are all more than twenty years old), or is it a matter of bad scanning? I use Silverfast 8.8 and a Reflecta 7200 scanner. Thanks!
Wonderful tutorial.
Great, quick tutorial, thanks for that! I like your workflow, and learnt a lot. Question: what is the film holder you are using? I have just a regular plastic frame kind.
gufszczur they came with my Epson V850
Hey great video. What height do you set your negative holder to? Also I have silverfast 8.8 but under color depth it doesn’t give me the option for 48bit. Do I have something turned off? Thank you
I'm enjoying your medium format videos....very helpful. Why was your image size only slightly bigger than FF 6×4k if it's MF?
Very useful, thanks.
Excellent. Thank you.
In one word : thanks
Hey there, thank you for this video. I have a question, when i make some correction on one frame, it automatically copy them on others, and also, when i zoom out from the detailed image it removes all the correction i made. Can you help me?
Great Video Jonathan.
Just a hint with the blower that an assistant once showed me, after blowing, pull the blower away from your film (or sensor, or lens) when releasing the bellows, so you don't suck in the dust you just removed and shoot it back onto your subject.
I like this because I don’t have to try it to know that it would work - thanks for the tip
@@JonathanNotley No biggie. It's so obvious in hindsight but it never occured to me until that guy told me. But it's not uncommon to learn a lot of stuff from assistants. They often work in rental houses for years and know every bit of equipment by heart.
Have you used the Negative Lab Pro software?...I wonder how it compares to SilverFast
Thinking about getting the v800 or v850 which one would you recommend?
Hi Jonathan, how do you straighten your film?
Great mini tutorial Jon'. I do however have a comment and a question; comment, I think it would have been more beneficial if you'd used a 35mm neg as I suspect the majority of viewers would be working with that format. The question refers to 35mm, as I am using a V800 Epson, what size print could I expect to produce from such a scan?
Geoff
Great tutorial! Is there any chance you could do a tutorial on scanning 35mm slides with the Epson? Or explain the process in comments whilst using Silver Fast?
Thanks👍
Hey mate, wich model of Kaiser Slimlite Negatoscope are you using? And what inch?
Thanks for the vid, very well made. i've got a question though. Everything works out well until it is finally downloaded...When I try to open the file it just shows me some black and white stuff with "Silverfast 8.8" written over it. Any idea how to prevent that so I can look at my scans?
Loads of my negafix profiles are missing, I'm also using an Epson v850 pro with the silverfast 8.8 software, any help would be awesome! thank you
Hi great videos thanks, Im just into scanning my own negatives with the V600. Could you tell me what light board your using, or could you do a short video on it thanks again Stephen
Hi Stephen, the light table is an Icoco A4 but I only bought it because it’s cheap and it’s currently held together by electrical tape!
Hi. What troubles me actually is - what IS the Portra look? What is the point of shooting film if everything is tweakable afterwards? If you would have scanned at Fuji 400H would you have searched for the same skin tone rendition? Would that be then a Portra look or a Fuji look? It puzzles me. I just got in to film photography cause I somehow wanted to escape the hours in lightroom postprocessing for my digital files. This is a part that really puzzles me so in the end I tend to just leave it to my lab to scan it - to actually "get the look".
How do you get the standard Porta 400 in Negafix? I only get every other version of the Portra iso 400..
Excellent excellent excellent job! Exactly what I needed to get started on this tool. Thank you!
Hi, thanks for the video! I want to scan my images at 2400 ppi, but when I move the slider it only snaps between 1600 and 3200, how do I move it freely? I am using the demo version if that makes a difference
Different scanners & software will have different options. You best bet is probably to scan at 3200 and then resample it in photoshop!
Thank you for this tutorial! I just got a Plustek scanner and it's been a really help getting started. I was wondering, do you have any tips for using multiple exposure? Each time I've turned it on to see how it performs the image comes out all wrong, very magenta color, stange looking. Not sure when exactly I should be using this feature and if there's anything more to its settings than simply turning it on.
I would say make sure you clip your photos so well that none of the orange edges around your photo are there, crop it so that only your frame is being worked on.
Thanks for the video, nicely done as ever. I was inspired by a previous video to get the plustek 8200i ai for my 35mm film. I notice you’ve updated your advice regarding resolution, sharpening and dust removal. I wasn’t sure if this was because you were dealing with medium format or perhaps something to do with the flatbed scanner? Anyway, could you let me know what resolution you advise for best quality from the plustek and also if you have any insight as to whether they may be updating Negafix any time soon? Quite a few current film stocks are missing and that’s left me floundering a little... fujic200, kodakcolorplus, kodakultramax, Fuji industrial, Cinestill...??
The plustek achieves best results when you scan at 7200dpi and downsample in Photoshop - the Epson achieves its optical limit between 2400-3600 but the output resolution after photoshop really depends on its use. Bear in mind the negative size makes a big difference. RE: Negafix I’m not sure what their schedule for SF 9 is but I’d recommend using similar stocks which have profiles for now
Jonathan Notley Thanks Jonathan. Your videos have been really useful when it comes to scanning film. It’s surprising how poor the information on UA-cam is around this, considering it’s growing popularity. Look forward to future film photography insights from you.🙌
Hey man, thanks for the great tutorial! One question though : what is the best way to post the scans on social media? would you recommend using jpeg instead of tiff? Or saving as tiff and then exporting using lightroom/ps? Thanks in advance :)
I scan everything as Tiff for archival/printing purposes. If I want to post something I export it from PS as a 2k long side jpg
Thanks a lot! Gonna try it out in the next few days
Hi Jonathan, thank you for this great video ! Will Silverfast work with an Epson V600 under Mac OS Mojave ? I've read there could be incompatibility issues... would I be better off choosing Vuescan ? Thanks !
I use Silverfast on 10.13 and haven’t updated for fear of killing it - I think perhaps Vuescan is better for the time being
Loved that video. Got one question though. What's the difference of sizing the image down in PS after all. I mean why didn't you choose a smaller size in SF in the beginning? Would appreciate an answer! :)
Ah. This is a slightly confusing one but essentially it’s about getting the maximum ‘real’ dpi out of the hardware. When set to 3600dpi the 8200i is only able to max around 2400 dpi of detail but at 7200dpi it’s producing around ~3200. This is a common thing scanner makes do and only a few (eg Dimage, Pakon etc) accurately label their abilities.
Since the 7200dpi scan only contains 3200dpi worth of real detail the rest is just bloat-pixels so the resizing knocks your files down to a more reasonable size. I use Bicubic (sharper) which helps with detail as well.
Essentially you want to cast the widest net and then throw out the junk afterwards instead of aiming for your print size straight away. I do still use lower settings for web use/previews though!
Another good video - which frame selection option in SilverFast 8.8 do you actually use when scanning a negative/positive with any kind of glass holder? I am using also anti-Newton glass holders (I got mine in 4x5" size from an enlarger setup which fixes the negative between two glass plates), and I found that for example the 6x6 frame holder option still gives me slightly sharper scans than just the 6x6 frame option. This is likely due to the glass plate thickness which lifts up the negative a bit from the scan plane.
Frame selection as in scan area or do you mean holder/straight on glass? The scan area doesn’t affect sharpness. The height is set depending on wether I’m taping film to ANR glass in a holder or scanning it on the glass using the ANR to keep it flat!
Referring to the choice in SilverFast 8.8 to select a frame from the drop-down menu either by using the film holder or directly scanning on the scanner glass. I understood so far that this changes an algorithm in SilverFast for best achievable scan sharpness of the frame.
Why does iSRD (infrared dust removal) seem to work for everyone but me? I run it, and when I zoom in at 100% in Lightroom I see jagged geometric artifacts everywhere it “fixed” a dust spot.
That’s such a great tutorial!!! Is it possible to do a tutorial for Epson Scan? Thanks a lot!
epson scan is a horribly designed software, download the trial of silverfast
Great intro to scanning film in general and manipulating Silverfast. Thanks. If you still check this - do you see any need to use the maximum resolution of the scanner for archival of old film? I've so far opted to scan at 3600ppi at 48bit tif files (because the latter 2 don't affect scan time, which is so far a significant concern) with the Plustek 8200i, while only scanning at 7200ppi to obtain the maximum optical resolution of the Plustek for selected images which were previously printed at 8R or above. Seems to be a balance of time and quality.
I definitely wouldn’t scan everything at max res for archival purposes, life’s too short.
hey!
Thank you so much for this video.
I have used the iSRD-mode in the past and it was quite effective. Indeed saves so much time with correcting and removing everything in photoshop. Haven't scanned in a while and for some reason I cannot make the iSRD-mode work anymore now. I am currently scanning black and white film, but instead of removing small particles and dust from the scan, the iSRD just messes up the whole photo and I end up with some abstract blurry picture, instead of the actual photo. What am I doing wrong?
ISRD doesn’t work with black and white because infrared can’t get pass through the silver in the negatives. It’s slide and colour negative only I’m afraid. I also have a video on black and white film that might help
Cool video, not familiar with silverfast, so very helpful. What lightbox is that?
idk I just typed lightbox into amazon and went with it
A "Pledge" brand , fluffy duster is an efficient way of removing dust from films.
Can you scan old box brownie (117) negatives and old 127 negatives from this scanner and program?
If you have the carrier yeah, you can do it easily. If not, you can do it anyway on a wet mount (check YT tutorial). Also you can get a flat glass carrier from the site "betterscanning".
can i print dsl pictures with a b/w laser printer on a transparent folio as a negative, afterward i will make the oldschool print and bath process to make pictures on real photografical paper
Laser - no. But you can make negatives from digital files for darkroom printing. I'd rather shoot film to be honest.
How do you have 160? I have only 160 nc and vc
Assuming you're in the UK, how hot must your house have been these last few weeks?! Also good video.
Oh my god my air-conditioning broke the other week and I’m classifying it as a near death experience
nice video, trying to gauge what options you opt for the Ai version rather than the SE plus. Is there anything from this tutorial that would be lacking in SE plus (on their website it just mentions expert mode but doesn't actually explain what that means) thank you
You’ll be fine with SE, expert mode isn’t super useful and 24-bit colour is fine unless you really need to go hard in post
Jonathan Notley thank you for the response!! Enjoy your work
I use SF 8 Studio with a Plustek 8200i. Something that frustrates me is, that when I adjust the frame of the image, the colour balance changes. When repositioning the frame to its previous position the colour remains at its 'adjusted' state.
There’s a menu option called ‘frame inset’ that lets you tell the software to ignore the area closest to the border - also you can turn of auto-adjustment for Cc etc
@@JonathanNotley Thanks for that. I knew about that option, but I was thinking the wrong way round. I had set it to 0. Now setting it to 100 has solved all my colour problems! Now if only I could figure out how to export B&W 16bit/8bit scans in sRGB or even Adobe RGB rather than Epson grey. CaptureOne doesn't recognise the Epson colour space. :). Thanks again for your help.
Thanks for this walkthrough. Silverfast has rescued my Epson V500 Photo scanner since Epson no longer support it in their own scanning software. One question: other than IR dust removal, what do you see as the advantage of applying settings in Silverfast instead of scanning to raw and using Lightroom or Photoshop?
How do I identify the film material for a correct Negafix value?
Atleast I found the (new) site www.imageaircraft.portfairy.town/DXsim/#Sim%20top but I do not understand how to input anything into this simulator.
Why did you set the orange mask tolerance to 50? Any specific reason? Default as far as I remember is 16...
No reason but to be honest with you it never seems to have much effect. I’d say default is fine.
Great stuff this. I was wondering if you could give any advice to when negafix hasnt got the film stock im shooting? I use fomapan and rollie rather alot and use silverfast 8.8 for scanning.
Cheers 😊
The best advice is just use whichever profile you like the look of, even if they have the profile
@@JonathanNotley thanks for this dude!!
Also, i have just realised i have the demo for silverfast ai studio 8.8 which is $300. The silverfast se 8.8 is only $50, is the difference in terms of scanning ability and colour results worth a $250 difference? thank you.
Stick with S.E, Ai gives you some extra options but unless you’re using HDR studio I’m not sure it’s worth it
hello, when I go into the unsharp masking, it doesnt really sharpen as well as your image did when you applied the usm. Any idea what that happened?
Mondos Aims it could be my camera lens, scanner lens; the format I used or how well the scanner was focused on the negative.
Jonathan Notley true, a few factors to take into account. Any recommendations for 35 mm?
Hello! thanks for the video! How do I scan three 6X7 images together? It's impossible to put the negative inside the holder
You can't scan more than two frames with a single holder, as it only loads two 6×7 frames at once.
If you want to scan more you'll need another holder. If you have an Epsom V600 it's really only two frames at once, but if you have the V750/V850, the holder comes with two trays, allowing for two frames of 6×7 each, so four frames at once.
@@Ryan-lu9km Most of my negatives are cut into three frames :( I just got the V850, It comes with two trays but I can use only one per scanning. I have another question, maybe you can help.. I use the silverfast 8.8 SE PLUS and the prescan is blurry, very uncomfortable to use. Do you know if this can be changed? Thank you so much!
You can also place the strip of film directly on the glass surface with no holder, that way you can scan may frames at once.
The downside is that you may get Newton rings (optical distortion caused by the contact of glass with the film).
You can use Anti-Newton ring glass, but it may not be necessary if you don't see this effect happening.
If your preview scans are blurry, in Silverfast 8.8 SE you can increase the preview resolution (I'd suggest 1200 to 2400 dpi). If your scans are too blurry, you can ajust the height of the V850 holder using the slider on the edge. By increasing or decreasing the distance (+ or - symbols), you can get sharper images.
@@Ryan-lu9km
Thank you for your help, I will try it!
The final scan are nice and sharp, I was talking about the photo that I see on the prescan!
@@ofirberman840 I'm glad I helped you, also I was wondering why this happened, because with such a large negative even 600 dpi would do a good preview. No wonder the final scans should be really sharp, considering the size of 6×7. Maybe one day I'll get a MF camera, for now just 35mm.
Unfortunately Silverfast now requires an internet connection for their version 9 of HDR and AI Studio. This is a real no go for those who scan film out of our rigs in Pational Parks or BLM land in the middle of nowhere. Version 8 does not require an internet connection. I've stuck with V8 for now.
Great video. Could you expand on how you move from the iSRD stage with the HQ screen back to the full image screen for color management. I find this a haphazard process. Sometimes I go back to the full image screen and other times back to the icon stage. Also, you mention that when you go back to the full screen stage for color adjustment the iSRD clean up does not show but will be there in the final scan. Again, could you explain that a bit. I have been going back to the iSRD stage and redoing it just before my final scan to be sure the clean up will be there. It will save me a lot of time is this is not necessary.
There's a way of doing it. I think you click the HQ button again whilst in 1:1 mode but I often forget. Once I've checked that iSRD is working I'm happy to lose the preview because I know the output won't be dusty. If it doesn't work I remove the negative and clean it a bit before trying again.
how do u save an image once u scan it ???
The act of scanning an image involves saving it, just check where the file is deposited in the top left of the Silverfast UI. I think the default is ‘pictures’ on mac
There is something i dont understand though, even though im shooting 100iso film i cant figure out for the life of me why its so grainy. 35mm film format
Could be over-sharpening, development, under-exposure or bad film stock.
@@JonathanNotley I will have to take some to shoot an exposure test roll to find out more. Its bugging me so much and i need to know why. Thanks for the point in the right direction
Hi, been using Silverfast but my images seem to be so noisy and grainy??? Even Portra 160. I have shot at box speed or overexposed by a stop and there is still lots of noise, I'm wondering what is wrong? It's more noisy than my DSLR at ISO 3200. Looking at other people's work, their's are much cleaner and sharper
What resolution are you scanning at? Are you using USM/ME?
@@JonathanNotley 1600 dpi and sometimes using USM and/or ME but it doesn't seem to make a difference to the crazy amount of noise. Maybe my scanner is just crap? It is an Epson v550
Are the films pushed and do the negatives look underexposed? Try using the 1:1 mode and clicking through a few options. I find that if you’re dealing with an issue it’s best to turn everything off and build up from a base
@@JonathanNotley I found that changing the dpi to 3200 made the noise slightly less visible but still high. I switched off all tabs and they aren't underexposed nor pushed.. :( it's so frustrating as I want to avoid paying a lot for a pro scan in a lab
Maybe adjust your scan height? Sharpening out-of-focus images could introduce artefacts
Dude what happened at 5:57? I still can't figure out how to remove the blueish hue from my scans! Thanks for the good video
That was the moment ‘auto ccr’ detected the orange mask and balanced it. How are you scanning?
good tutorial, but as far as i can see this has some cons in this technic.
how do you know what are the true colors, tone, and contrast of the film stock?
back in the analog days, you took your film to the lab and they just printed in film paper so you get what the film was meant to give. if your exposure was wrong you got a dark/ or to bright image. so you has to learn to exposure pretty well. i don want to "fix" exposure" on post. i don want to "fix" colors. i just want to see the colors and contrast that the fil was made for.
in this process, settings here, and setiings there, how do i know what it is the real thing. you chosse a film stock based on how it response to light and to se tones and contrast that it has. with to many sattings i will end up in a laberinth.
i don´t want to work on film the way i work on digital. that has no sense. what i want it is to shoot on analog, develop my film and scan it to se the results of a especific emultion.
what if i have an old emultion that i want to experiment with?, negafix doesn´t have any preset for it.
my problem here it is that i has been searching for a good workflow but i can´t find anything. the closer thing it is a plugin for Lightroom which cost $99 USD plus the cost of LR. so i am a little lost.
Lab technicians have always had to adjust and balance colour. The notion that there is a ‘true’ colour or tone to a film stock isn’t possible.
64bit RAW DNG is the best for negative and slide
Great video but the music in the background is very distracting. Noisy neighbours?
I expected to learn how to start. The only thing I picked up was how to insert the film in the holder and get rid of dust. Then you rambled on about advanced settings. Wonderful, but for video 2, 3, 4, etc. I stopped watching, so I don’t know how to get the image on my hard disk.
Nice and shapr video. Well done.
Except the bach ground music for the same electronic cheap music for 27 minutes, is terrible!
off sound is perfect ;-)
In my opinion, the small adjustments you applied (after selecting the proper film type) made the image much WORSE.
Instead of gloves try finger cots.
I loathe Silverfast software. It's just not intuitive