Very good video. I have to perform this same procedure on my 1967 Suzuki 150 twin 2 stroke and I'm now anxious to get started. Thanks so much for posting this.
Very helpful. I've having an odd issue where it's hard to hit get the "discontinuity" right at 1.8mm BTDC and I'm assuming it's because the point rotor "pad" or part on the points that touches the timing rotor is worn out? Thoughts?
This can be tricky sometimes. The first thing I'd do is make sure the contact faces of the points themselves are flat and clean. That is, there's no point protruding from one of the point pad faces. If there is, use either a very fine file or strip of 400 grit emery/sandpaper to flatten them out. Clean thoroughly by pulling a strip of clean white paper through the points (when they are together) switching out the paper until it comes out clean. You can also use contact cleaner to spray down the point surfaces to remove any residue. Be judicious if using brake cleaner around these parts though, as brake cleaner is very aggressive. As you suggest, it's also possible the rubbing block on the point arm is worn or inconsistent. If the contact point appears suspect, you could also carefully touch this up with a file or sandpaper to square it up. If all else fails, short of replacing the points, you could set the timing just slightly to the retarded side, say 1.7 or so or wherever on the retarded side you can get it to settle down (within reason). I would not go to the advanced side, i.e., firing too early as that can be risky.
@@kwrightway Thanks for the responses! I think I got it after a bunch of tweaking last night. Your video was by far the best I've found online! Much appreciated!
I have a question. So i made a little contraption that consists of a light bulb and battery, sort of like what you have.. now i was getting continuity regardless of the points are open or shut.. so i removed the fly wheel.. un plugged the harness.. still continuos continuity.. so i removed the whole ignition system and tested again.. still the same problem regardless if points are open or closed.. I followed the workshop manual.. so this make timing impossible. Bike is a 1978 Yamaha RX125e. My question is this the result of a bad condencer that is allowing my tester to light up even if the points are open. Any advice would be super because i cant make heads or tales of it
Initially when you first attempted to use your tester, did the light alternately dim and brighten when you turned the crank? If so, this is normal and the light was working as intended. The variation in brightness indicates when the points are opening/closing, not going completly out.
The intent is to check for continuity or rather a change in continuity so the ohms setting is what is used. Voltage or current (amps) is not relevent for this procedure.
Wow......it’s been a while since I had my hands on points and adjustments.....metric....definitely the way to go....we changed maybe 40 years ago and no one ever wishes to go back to inches
Metric is very common in the US and though I'm fluent in both imperial and metric, I prefer metric. It just so happens that I've not (yet) picked up a metric dial indicator, though I'm sure I will one of these days.
Silly question, is the multi meter set to ohms. I bought the timing kit from Motion Pro to check my RD 350 and shows the the points opening @ 1.5 mm using the light bulb setup. It doesn't repeat very well so I was thinking of picking up an analog meter as all I have is a digital one. Should I purchase a buzzer? This was a great video by the way. Thank you very much!!!
You are correct, when using a multi-meter, you use the ohms setting. All you're checking for is continuity or current flow. A buzzer isn't absolutely necessary, I only demonstrated several different methods so folks know there are options available. As I said in the video, I tend to prefer a buzzer as I find it's a bit easier for me, but that's a personal choice. Glad you found the video useful, and you are most welcome.
The buzzer is really simply, a nine volt battery, an inexpensive buzzer (Amazon or eBay) and a couple of small allegator clips with leads. Battery polarity isn't important. However, when I get a chance I'll see what I can do about creating a short video.
Yes I did make the sound indicator (sometimes called a "buzz box"). It's a simple DC-current buzzer I picked up years ago at Radio Shack. I expect they are all over eBay now. Besides the buzzer, a few pieces of wire, a couple of alligator clips and some solder and you're in business. Glad it was helpful...
This is such a solid, thoughtful and helpful video, thank you!
Thanks for the comment!
Best video I've seen on two stroke ignition timing ever!
Thank you!
Very good video. I have to perform this same procedure on my 1967 Suzuki 150 twin 2 stroke and I'm now anxious to get started. Thanks so much for posting this.
You're welcome and thanks for the note...
Excellent, well done. The indicator spark plug adapter is brilliant.
Thank you for the comments...
Very well explained!! Thanks for the help
You're welcome, and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for your help, i used a similar method on my GT250. i would have had no idea if it wasnt for your video. new points x 2 runs like a clock
Great, glad the video was useful to you! Thanks for the comment...
Thank you for this great video.
You're welcome...
Thanks, I wasn't sure if you were able to check continuity with voltage on the points.
Brilliant video mate thank you
Thank you...
Very helpful. I've having an odd issue where it's hard to hit get the "discontinuity" right at 1.8mm BTDC and I'm assuming it's because the point rotor "pad" or part on the points that touches the timing rotor is worn out? Thoughts?
This can be tricky sometimes. The first thing I'd do is make sure the contact faces of the points themselves are flat and clean. That is, there's no point protruding from one of the point pad faces. If there is, use either a very fine file or strip of 400 grit emery/sandpaper to flatten them out. Clean thoroughly by pulling a strip of clean white paper through the points (when they are together) switching out the paper until it comes out clean. You can also use contact cleaner to spray down the point surfaces to remove any residue. Be judicious if using brake cleaner around these parts though, as brake cleaner is very aggressive.
As you suggest, it's also possible the rubbing block on the point arm is worn or inconsistent. If the contact point appears suspect, you could also carefully touch this up with a file or sandpaper to square it up.
If all else fails, short of replacing the points, you could set the timing just slightly to the retarded side, say 1.7 or so or wherever on the retarded side you can get it to settle down (within reason). I would not go to the advanced side, i.e., firing too early as that can be risky.
@@kwrightway Thanks for the responses! I think I got it after a bunch of tweaking last night. Your video was by far the best I've found online! Much appreciated!
@@naym0001 Great, glad you were able to sort it out. And thank you for the kind words!
Loved the diagram and explanation....
Thank you... I spent some time thinking this one through. The subject can be confusing to those new to the topic. Thanks for the comment.
I have a question. So i made a little contraption that consists of a light bulb and battery, sort of like what you have.. now i was getting continuity regardless of the points are open or shut.. so i removed the fly wheel.. un plugged the harness.. still continuos continuity.. so i removed the whole ignition system and tested again.. still the same problem regardless if points are open or closed..
I followed the workshop manual.. so this make timing impossible.
Bike is a 1978 Yamaha RX125e. My question is this the result of a bad condencer that is allowing my tester to light up even if the points are open. Any advice would be super because i cant make heads or tales of it
Initially when you first attempted to use your tester, did the light alternately dim and brighten when you turned the crank? If so, this is normal and the light was working as intended. The variation in brightness indicates when the points are opening/closing, not going completly out.
Thanks for the video, but i do have 1 question. Where do you put the other clip of the buzzer?
You're welcome. One lead clips to the points, the other is grounded to the engine or other solid ground/earthing point.
I'm not going to build a noisemaker, how did you set the meter? DC Volts? Ohms? What scale?
The intent is to check for continuity or rather a change in continuity so the ohms setting is what is used. Voltage or current (amps) is not relevent for this procedure.
Wow......it’s been a while since I had my hands on points and adjustments.....metric....definitely the way to go....we changed maybe 40 years ago and no one ever wishes to go back to inches
Metric is very common in the US and though I'm fluent in both imperial and metric, I prefer metric. It just so happens that I've not (yet) picked up a metric dial indicator, though I'm sure I will one of these days.
Silly question, is the multi meter set to ohms. I bought the timing kit from Motion Pro to check my RD 350 and shows the the points opening @ 1.5 mm using the light bulb setup. It doesn't repeat very well so I was thinking of picking up an analog meter as all I have is a digital one. Should I purchase a buzzer? This was a great video by the way. Thank you very much!!!
You are correct, when using a multi-meter, you use the ohms setting. All you're checking for is continuity or current flow. A buzzer isn't absolutely necessary, I only demonstrated several different methods so folks know there are options available. As I said in the video, I tend to prefer a buzzer as I find it's a bit easier for me, but that's a personal choice.
Glad you found the video useful, and you are most welcome.
@@kwrightway Thank you for the clarification on this!!! Have a great day and thank you.
@@davidwinterbottom1942 Certainly, I will and you too...
Can u make a video on how to build that buzzer
The buzzer is really simply, a nine volt battery, an inexpensive buzzer (Amazon or eBay) and a couple of small allegator clips with leads. Battery polarity isn't important. However, when I get a chance I'll see what I can do about creating a short video.
Also, once you set the btdc point, do you have to re-gap? odd question but that's how the manual makes it sound for my rd350
You certainly can recheck the point gap after setting BTDC. If you end up readjusting the points, check the timing again, though.
Great video thank you !!
You are welcome... thanks.
any chance you can post a link to the video for the dial gauge adapters?
Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/aWaVssNk0LA/v-deo.html
it's Shop Talk #21, Making a Dial Indicatory Spark Plug Adapter --- Video #164
@@kwrightway thanks for the quick reply. You do amazing work and I enjoy your videos immensely!
Thank you for the kind words!
This was very helpful, did you make the sound indicator?
Yes I did make the sound indicator (sometimes called a "buzz box"). It's a simple DC-current buzzer I picked up years ago at Radio Shack. I expect they are all over eBay now. Besides the buzzer, a few pieces of wire, a couple of alligator clips and some solder and you're in business.
Glad it was helpful...
Search continuity tester!
Thank you so much.
You are most welcome...
thank you so much !
You are very welcome...
Very bad audio
This is such a solid, thoughtful and helpful video, thank you!
Thank you for the comment...