MAJOR FLAW with Moza R9 you SHOULD KNOW ABOUT!
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- Опубліковано 3 чер 2024
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** quick note: Please read first the pinned comment!
***quick notes, that i should have mentioned in the video: I made this video after two months of owning the R9 V2 and after i received a second unit of the R9 V2, the first was was replaced under warranty for the exact same reason: OVERHEATING! The settings I used for this video are just some random settings, but the R9 V2 overheated also with default profiles like GT3. It overheated from the verry first day (i talk about this in the unboxing video and also in the GT DD Pro vs R9 v2, videos in which I only used the default profiles, to be fairregarding both of the wheels). I waited more than two months to do this video, i did not just dialed some stupid FFB settings and i did the video. I will do another video also with default profiles, and different FFB settings. My intention was not to show how bad or what a stupid thing the R9 is, because it is not! I still like more than the GT DD Pro and i think it offers better FFB, but i think (at least some units) have some thermal management problems.
After having my Moza Racing R9 V2 wheel base replaced under warranty, I took my time testing it, also buying a laser thermometer to see if the new wheel base still overheats or not! I also compared it to my Fanatec GT DD PRO, which has never overheated. - Ігри
With my R5 purchased in January 2023, It always felt cool to the touch even after hour long races in iracing. Now with the latest version of pithouse it gets very warm with exactly the same settings. I use the radical option and always have. I'm leaning toward something changed in pithouse causing this issue. My room is always a constant 72F.
With R5, i can for sure it changed with new firmware because when I bought it back in March, it was way weaker, and after a firmware update, it got more powerful. Jimbonater, a subscriber of the channel, tested the R5, and he said it outputs around 6.5 nm with that firmware. I honestly don't know if my R5 overheats or not, i will test it in one of my next videos. Also regarding the overheating problem in general i'm really confused because there are people saying they never had any problem, i'm also on Facebook on Moza's community group and most of the people are saying they had 0 issues with their R9. Also, there are so many people having even bigger issues than mine with their R9 overheating, and i'm so glad that you guys share your experience with the R5/R9 and I thank you for that.
@@JulianNDL Thanks for letting me know this! Maybe I'll dial my FFB and torque down a bit to replicate the old cooler temps. And now that I think about it, I have noticed it was taking a bit more power to turn the wheel in corners. Great video!
@@JulianNDLthe r5 outputs more than 5.5?
@princehuskie1617 According to a user of the channel who measured the real output, yes, he said that the R5's output was around 6.5 nm.
@@JulianNDL thats very interesting do you know if the r5 overheated by outputting that extra torque?
Any DD will get very hot, whether from Simucube, Simagic, Moza, etc., this is normal and does not cause problems at the base, the engine works that way. The only problem is the decrease in FFB.
There is an option in the Moza pithouse which is the Error Report which informs the base temperature every ten minutes, it is very useful, it stores a history report for several days, you do not need to print it after the races, it can be any time time.
I have the Moza R5 which to date reached a maximum of 58 degrees (seen in this report) in soft mode. Unfortunately, the FFB does decrease, ruining the immersion. I also noticed that it got less hot until one of the pithouse upgrades was implemented.
Today I would buy a base of at least 12 nm to use something like 8 nm which would suit me perfectly. I just don't know if even with 8nm, the base wouldn't also reduce the FFB.
Exactly. You are right. The problem is not that it gets hot or warm, but how it manages the temperature, and here I refer from dissipating it through heat sink and fins to softare management. That is why I compared it to Fanatec, which does this amazingly good.
I also recently bought the Asetek La Prima, which also gets very hot, around 56 degrees, but it never limits FFB. It manages that temp very well. It gets hot, but it stabilizes at a point without any effect on FFB. I think if Moza would not limit FFB, it would get even hotter...
I have simxperience accuforce v2 never get hot because thr electronics is out side the motor in control box
@nassermohd2317 That is actually a good ideea to prevent overheating of the electronics.
I have a R9 v1 since launch my wheelbase can get warm to touch but not very often.
It did once exceed what I beleive was too hot to touch, this was in ACC with FFB on max for a 45 minute race.
Almost wrecked my arms, but never lost feedback. The base sure was hot tho.
Never had an issue since backing off the FFB which actually makes it feel better to drive.
From what other people are saying in the comments, it seems like the V2 has overheating problems. I could be wrong. I bought two USB fans today, so for the next video, I will try them to see how cool they can keep the wheel base.
@RichBurn That should not make it overheat, and it's just the speed dampening, not the damper itself, and it's set to 100%. Again, please stop acting like the R9 is this precious thing that needs special care and attention. Otherwise, it overheats! It's not like that, and it shouldn't be like that. Also, just please read the comments section. I"m sure all the people have their dampening high also, and that's why all these R9 l's overheating.
@RichBurn You're like a broken record, bro! Really! Do you seriously think i don't know what every setting does before going public with a video, and I need you to teach me? I don't get how some of you think they know it all, and the rest are just stupid and don't know what they're talking about. Do you think i invest so much time, energy, and money and not to be sure what i'm talking about? I appreciate you taking so much time for commenting, but dude, again, try to be real! These settings should not and don't have any effect on the temperature! They were the best settings in the world? Of course not and I didn't say that anywhere, but again, these settings should not have ANY EFFECT on the temperature, if the wheel base is a good one, like Alain proved himself, using the exact same settings I did (pinned comment of this video), and his wheelbase never went above 39 (which is a huge distance from mine going above 55) degrees Celsius. I'm always talking on facts, but you keep talking from what you are thinking.
@RichBurn Also like i previosuly told you, but you seem to ignore the facts you don't like, i'm pretty sure everyone that said their wheelbase overheats, some even said that their wheelbase overheats even more and faster than mine, someone even sent me logs with his wheelbase acheiveing incredible temperatures, they all had the speed damping set to 100% and that's the main cause of overheating. Have a good one, dude!
@@RichBurn I don't even know how to answer that. You just showed how ignorant and egocentric you are. It's just sad that there are people like you out there, and this is my last reply to you. If you continue being ignorant and dumb, you'll be the first guy that i'll ban from my channel. I can understand anything, but this attitude of yours, thinking you know it all and the rest are just dumb, i can't! Just be you, bro, but not on my channel.
Looks to me the experience has been so diverse, it may have come from the manufacturing process being slightly different at one point. I hope they can release a statement about this situation one day.
I also believe the same thing given all the different experiences. Also, if you have watched the latest video that Boosted Media have posted, they compare the R12 with Assetek LaPrima. The difference in dimensions is huge, and I really don't get why did they do such small bases...
it's a small passive cooler, so ambient temps, and settings like high dampening will cause less headroom and more work for the wheel respectfully, disappoint that this is a thing.
I'll test it out soon, I also have fan handy in my room will see how that changes things if ever it gets to overheating point.
@Cypeq Yes, I mean there is no need (at least in my opinion) to have such small wheel bases, especially when temp management has to suffer.
@@JulianNDL indeed honestly, it's just negligent design, because even with this small size, they could have made use of much bigger heatsink area by simply adding fins stacks all around like DD has, and many other passively cooled equipment.
@Cypeq That's also true!
Ive had my R9 for 5 months now and run it for hours 3 to 4 days a week. Never had any overheating heating issues.
Wait atm i have a ts-xw its 5nm and i dont run it close to 100% at full wack its fair to much to control imo so if im not running it at 100% i should be absolutly fine right?
Yes, as long as you’re not running it at 100% it should be fine
I ended up swapping my R5 for the 15nm Simagic Alpha. As I have only used 60% of the total charge, the base remains cold like a refrigerator. Other details that I noticed: the Alpha is not that superior to the Moza (as youtubers say), but you can notice an improvement in grip in the curves, I can feel the rubber of the tires more, as well as the undulations on the track, it is noticeable that the cars GTs have a less firm suspension than formula cars, which I never felt in the Moza, I don't know if it was because of 10 nm more. I also felt more softness, and obviously, much more strength.
Good choice, the Simagic Alpha. From a point onwards, the difference between all these wheelbases is just in small, fine details, leaving aside the difference in torque power.
You know how they say, the small details make the difference. Yes, the difference most probably comes from the more powerful motor having a bigger dynamic range. Also, being a more powerful motor, it can sustain constant high torque power, unlike the ones with 3-5-8-9-12 nm, where that is the peak power and not the constant power.
Very glad you found this issue. I haven't found a UA-camr that has noticed this yet in watching many reviews. Have you found improvements running with less NM like setting max to 7NM for the Moza R9 or 9NM for the Moza R12?
Hi Snafu. I also don't understand why nobody is talking about the overheating problem on youtube. I did not try yet to see how it does with less nm, but thank you, that is a really good idea, and i am gonna try it. I mean, I don't want to be Moza's hater because I love the R5 and the R9, and i'll also get the R12 as soon as I can, but i think if we don't talk about the bad parts too, they can't improve their products.
Bc it's a non issue
@bubbles1525_ Overheating is a huge issue, especially at this price point, and i'm not the only one who is experiencing it. Just read the comments section.
@@JulianNDL I know 3 people who own it 0 problems.
There is no overheat issue. The settings in this vid are wrong. They are using RETURN SPRING STRENGTH on top of FFB which adds a lot of un-needed constant force. No wonder it overheats !
Do I understand correctly that you believe the moza ffb is superior to the similar fanatec option? I currently have the csl dd but was curious if the moza was better as far as ffb only.
Yes, it has richer, more detailed, and stronger FFB. If you jump from Moza to GT DD Pro, the Gt will feel faded and dialed down a bit.
Its the V2; like Fanatec has their own V2s, but they are pricier (clubsport dd, dd+).
@rob8141 No. V2 is an improved version of V1. Fanatec Clubsport DD and DD+ have 12nm and 15nm and are Fanatec's response to R12, Asetek La Prima, and so on , whereas GT DD Pro offers 8nm.
@@JulianNDL the dd pro is like a V1
The clubsport dd, dd+ and r9 v2, 16 v2 and so on came out parallel.
Do you have enough electricity? Change the outlet you have the wheel plug
I tend to think you need to have a little headroom and choose a base that you won't be running at 100%. So, if you generally use 7 to 8Nm max, purchase a base that has at least 10 to 12Nm. I currently have a Fanatec DD1 with 20Nm, but I only run it at 8 to 9Nm max, which is over-kill, so my next purchase is the Simagic Alpha with 15Nm, which is more than enough headroom for my max.
I just purchased the simagic alpha 15nm.. Waiting patiently for it..👍🏻
Just saying, operating ranges should be given for these wheels. One manufacturer’s torque rating is not similar to another’s.
My last two bases I've run at 100% ffb 100% of the time no issues. I would hope this is a bad batch rather than a bad design per se, and surely it would be simple enough to attach a PC case fan, I'd put up with the noise if it kept my wheelbase functioning correctly. I have to agree that the Fanatec CSL DD/GT DD Pro do a much better job of keeping their motors cool, even 35°C temps didn't faze my CSL DD. There are plenty of horror stories about every brand, just gotta pray to the sim racing gods that you don't get a duffer.
I run the r12 at 90% it's not even get very warm, just warm after an hour.
I have nothing to back this up but the CSL DD Pro might be capping the full force while the Moza r9 lets you use more than the hardware can take. Lower power DD's really don't get to warm unless they are subjected to heavy clipping. I own a Simagic alpha mini and for build quality it would be above these two DD's. I can quite easily get it hot if I max out all the settings then drive hard for 20-30 mins. I think the take away from this is that yes the peak force is 9nm but you should be aiming for 7-8nm for maxed out settings. But a DD sell's better with bigger numbers on the box. I always run my DD so that it has very little clipping in the corners when racing, so always set it up correctly with a force feedback meter in game and just max it out in the DD software, you will find that it will run cool all day long.
The R9 was maxed out just on NM, the rest of the settings were not maxed out, and that is why I also showed the settings I used. Also, the base was not clipping in the game. The power in the game was around 85-90%, just so that the base won't clip. I think you can also see the FFB tab on the right of the screen. I think you might be right that Moza let's you use more than they're saying. At least this is what @Jimbonater found out, testing the R5, which output around 6.5 nm by his calculations. I don't know if that's also the case with the R9, though. I started recording a new video with the R9, where i set the power in Moza pit house to 90% and the base did not overheat, it's tem was around 47-50 degrees celsius, and it went up to 51 - 52 a couple of times only, and immediately that i set it again to 100% it started to go above 52 degrees Celsius.
I have the R9 v2 and never had any overheating issue, even in a very hot room (30 celcius)... After hours of racing it stil going strong.
HI there. Thank you so much for the info. It is so strange because from what I see, a part of the people have problems and a part don't. It is simply strange, or it could be that there's a batch of bad ones....beats me.
@@JulianNDL and my R9 is bolted down on a piece of wood not even aluminium. Just dit a race and the base is not even hot to the touch. It is idd strange
@nijhuus Wow, that is even stranger! Thank you so much for all the info. I'm so glad that a lot of people are sharing their experience with their R9.
I have the R9 V1...I never had the problems with overheating and after half an hour of racing at comfortable settings (which for me is 100% FFB in PitHouse and 90% in Assetto Corsa settings, though I use the FFBClip app to tune FFB further) The base is warm to the touch but by feel not even close to 50 degrees. I know this because I was warried about overheating initially and constantly checked to see if the wheelbase heated up or not.
Big note on this whole video: you're not supposed to use the wheelbase with all the settings in-game cranked up. It's a terrible experience on any and all Direct Drive, Belt, and Gear-driven wheelbases. You need to have general forces where they won't be clipping all the time, while providing good feedback.
I wish I could conduct my own experiments with proper numbers and not just feel and jerryrigging. I strapped a thermometer to my base and after half an hour it showed around 35 degrees on the surface...no loss of FFB, although again, I set my FFB as to not clip (unless it's a crash, but then it's irrelevant).
Like I also told someone else in comments, the base was not clipping and the ingame setting were not maxed out, I think I even said in the video that I intentionally did that to Fanatec, i maxed out everything and the base was clipping and it never went above 30 degress Celsius. From where did you deduct that the ingame settings were maxed out? It's really strange. :D If you look carefully, you can see the FFB on the right side, and it's never clipping.
A lot of people are saying they don't have any heat issues with their V1. Maybe they changed something for the V2, beats me!
Hi, why is the led blinking? No integration with the game for rpms ? Thats my doubt with monza. Its integrations in the games.
The RPM leds usually work, at least for me, but I need to keep the Moza Pithouse open while playimg, otherwise the LEDs will not work. There were though some times when the LEDs didn't work even with Moza Pit House open, but like 85% of the times they do work.
I have an older R9 v1, it gets pretty warm but has no change in FFB. I switched it to aggressive instead of conservative mode a few months ago and haven't noticed a change either.
Do you use with FFB set to 100% also torque to 100%?
@@JulianNDL I leave it at 100% in Pit House and then reduce it in game to avoid clipping, but those settings depend on the game.
@@JulianNDL I'll try to do some more testing tonight, maybe it affects the V2 more than V1. I haven't been racing as much in the summer but I should be able to tonight.
@Han-Yolo From the comments people left here, i also think that it affects the V2 more, but I really don't know what the problem is. Maybe there are just some faulty batches, and I was unlucky two times.
@@Han-Yolo But i'd love to know more about your settings if you have time. I also thank you so much for the comment and for the info.
I have the R9 v2 + GS wheel since 6 months ago. Use 100% ffb conservative on Pit House and between 55 to 60 on Acc. It gets warm yes after 2h session but never had any problems of loosing ffb because of overheating. I use the wheel almost everyday...
Hi Nuno. Yes, because in ACC, you only have the FFB set to 50-60%. Try increasing it around 90-95% just so that it doesn't clip. It'll be a different story. For me, the R9 is too weak if I set FFB in ACC at 50%
Hi there, I am wanting to get into sim racing and I have a budget to be able to afford either the R5 bundle, CSL DD bundle or get a second hand dd pro and pedals and a wheel or the r9 and pedals and a wheel. What do you recommend? Many thanks and happy racing
Hi Weasley. I'd recommend you to buy a new one (mainly the wheel base) because you never know with the used ones. Regarding what to buy, it's a bit more complicated. The R5, the R9, the CSL, or DD, in my opinion, are great choices. Each has its own negative part, like the CSL and DD have problems with their wheel shaft, and some R5s and R9s have overheating problems. Betwen the R5 and the CSL DD Ready2Race bundle i'd recommend you getting the CSL, just because you always have the option down the line to upgrade it to 8 nm, upgrade the pedals with the load cell kit, plus there is a good used market for the Fanatec wheels, at decent prices. On the other hand, the R5 and R9 are also amazing pieces of equipment. The R5 doesn't have any upgrade options, so if you'd want at a later point to upgrade it, you'd have to sell it and get the R9 or the R12.
@@JulianNDL Thank you ever so much. I was really interested in the CSL DD R2R bundle as it was cheap and I had heard many good things .But, when I started diving deeper I found many problems regarding the wheel shaft such as it coming out and basically removing all force feedback, the quick release getting snapped easily and also problems such as the software saying it was disconnected as soon as you put the wheel on which made me become interested in the moza r5 and r9. However, it does require forking out the extra £100+ for slight differences such as .5 Nm more whilst still bearing issues like overheating. thank you ever so much for your opinions.
@weasley2998 My pleasure, man. I have been owning the GT DD Pro since February this year. Indeed, i also experienced the wheel shaft disconnect one time, but I changed the wheels like even a few times a day, and it happened once in 7 months. It is a stupid design, but you can check it once in a while, like a maintenance thing, and it will never happen. Other problems I didn't experience with it. It works flawlessly every single time.
Yes, the QR Lite seems not that good, but again, I didn't have any problems with it, and I have a few wheels with the QR Lite. My WRC wheel has a Qr lite, and that is the most used and abused wheel I own, and until now, I have had no problems. And to be completely fair, I bought the WRC wheel used.
Also, you can always upgrade it to the QR, the metal one, at any time.
@@JulianNDL Do you think it’s worth just getting the T300 RS and saving money for future upgrades or just jumping straight into the csl dd/r5?
i have had mine for about 4 months no issues yet. i have seen other videos of the heating issues but my bade doesnt really seen to warm after about an 45 to an hour for iracing. i also play dirt rally 2.0 not problems so far.
Been rallying with this base for two months now. Even a 6 hour Rally event with super demanding stages and lots of FFB going.. barely warm to the touch, Dunno. So far it's a 5/5 stars product for me
I'm just happy when people don't have any problem with their R9, because I still think it's one of the best out there in that price range. Do you use it with FFB and torque set to 100%?
Mine does the exact same as yours. Overheats if not tuned down or cooled by a small usb fan. It bothers me as well. So now i'm upgrading to a R12 since i'm still on a loaner from my dealer. My first 2 broke down well before they could overheat. 😅
I am so sorry to hear that, but i am glad you are upgrading to the R12. If you'd like, please let us know in the comments how the R12 is once you get it.
I own and have reviewed the R9 (V1) and R12. I haven't had any overheating issues with either. For the R9 I run the FFB str at 100% in the Moza PH, but in-game FFB at 85-90%. For two reasons, firstly it feels good at this level, and secondly to prevent FFB clipping. What FFB str are you running?
The wheel wasn't clipping in any of the two games i played for this video. I think in the games, the FFB str was 90%.
What i find funny is that people are trying to find different reasons for the overheating issue, but my Fanatec GT DD Pro runs under the exact same conditions, from temp, simgrig, FFB settings, everything, furthermore like i also said in my video I abused my fanatec with different stupid FFB settings, even making it clipp and it never gets hot nor it limits the FFB.
@@JulianNDL I stumbled across your video by chance as the title looked interesting. So far, no one has left a comment under any of my Moza videos suggesting overheating issues. If I find some time, I'll run some tests myself.
@SimRacingCorner I did this video after two months of owning it and using it almost on a daily basis, and after the first R9 V2 was replaced under warranty for the overheating issue, also you can see in the comments section that most of the people encounter the same problem with their R5 or R9, also Moza's answer to this is that this is a normal thing.
@@JulianNDL My R9 was my main wheelbase for several months until the R12 arrived. Because of your video title, it will certainly will attract people searching for the same problem, and it's good to get this out there. I don't know how common this issue is. I wasn't aware overheating was a thing with the R9 or indeed the R5 (I have one of those too). I know that some of my subs are R5 and R9 owners, and no mentioning overheating ever. I'm not sweeping aside your issues, it's clearly a problem for you. I'm just passing along my personal experiences with this hardware.
I don't own one but I'm planning to get one. I made a lot of research on whether to get the R12 or the R9, so I finally decided to go with the R9 because I think it's the better option for me as a beginner in the sim racing world, but after watching your video, I don't know what to do, I don't want to spend a lot of money on something that might not work properly, and unfortunaltly I can't get a Fanatec one because I live in a country which they do not ship to! so what do you recommend? should I just wait for a new batch to ship, or pay the extra and go with the R12, or should I just go with the belt-driven route with something like the Thrustmaster TS-PC!?
-The reason I don't want the R12 right now is because I want to attach the wheelbase to my desk, I don't have a cockpit at the moment and I feel the R12 is just to powerful for clamping on a desk!
Under no circumstance don't get a belt driven one. It's an outdated technology. My opinion is to get the R12, even if you mount it on your desk. You can set the torque as much as you feel comfortable for your desk. You don't have to max it out from the beginning. Also, having a more powerful wheelbase is good because you have enough head room, so you know for sure it will never overheat, as long as you don't use those 12 nm at their maximum. (I don't know anything about the R12, if it overheats or not. I decided to get the Asetek La Prima instead of it). The R9 also does not overheat if I set it to 90% torque power. It overheats as long as I use it with 100% torque power.
Thank you so much for your detailed reply, I think I'll just go with the R12 or im might check out the Asetek La Prima, hopefully they ship to my country. Again thank you so much friend @@JulianNDL
@EddieArafa Anytime, man. Yes, La Prima is the better choice if you can purchase it. It's all you'll ever need for a few years.
My R9 V2 never gets warm really even after hours of rally racing in dirt2 and wrc generations. Never gets warm in ACC though I never usually do more then 1 or 2 hour stints, I suspect you need to limit the max torque a bit or try using lower lower FFB in game/making sure its not clipping but I have heard enough complaints about this from others that it could be some kind of widespread quality control issue.
Before anything, I like to be fair and honest. Indeed, i had some videos, a few months back, where my nase was clipping and a viewer pointed that out, but since then, i made sure that no wheel base is ever clipping. The ingame FFB was around 80-90%. Yes, with torque or ffb set to 90% ot does not overheat to 55, it only got a few times to 51-52 degrees celsius, which still have limited the FFB on the regular option.
Is this still a issue? I've just ordered a r9 v2 and just now also seeing this
I really have no idea. A ton of people are complaining about this problem. To be fair, as long as you’re not running it at 100% ffb and torque in Pit house it should be fine.
@JulianNDL yh I'm seeing at 100% ffb the concensus is it over heats but basically anything bellow that it's fine and worst case is buying a little fan for it couple people on etsy make 3d printed fan mounts specifically for it which isn't to bad but take up the space of a phone/dash mount sadly
I bought my r9 March this year and you right after 25 min in ACC it gets really hot. Now, this past weekend i have noticed a smell like something is burning so i decided to put it back in the box and i will return it since i got the two year warranty from Micro Center. Not sure what to do since i don't trust the r9 anymore. May be go with the r16 or get the thrustmaster t818 hopefully Micro Center can help me
I can't understand anymore, because a lot of people are saying their R9 does never get hot, do maybe there's just a bad batch, but it seems like more people have problems with their R9 than the ones who don't. I also want to get the R12, but it is not available in Europe until August.
Also, in my experience with the r9, I did play with default settings, which is 80% force feedback in pithouse, and in game ACC, I reduced to 70%, so I never play with 100% FF. In automobilista 2 in game default settings comes at 55%, which never got hot, I did increase to 65% a it gets hot not as ACC but gets hot.
Shame to hear this, hopefully they fix it in firmware? i just went tor the R16, it's amazing, easiiy as good as my old DD1.
I also have the Moza R9 mostly playing F1 games and it was overheating a lot so I let someone print a fan holder for the top for cooling it. It still overheats but less I think and I don't really notice a FFB reduction, but that could be me I don't know. I plug the fan into my pc while racing, the top is cooled and doesn't feel super hot, the sides stil feels hot.
This is my plan for the next video to mount the 2 USB fans i bought and see the real effect they have over the overheating problem. After selecting the Critical option for temperature management, it limited the FFB only a couple of times, when its outside temperature was over 55-56 degrees Celsius.
@@JulianNDL alright interesting!! But why 2? How are you gonna mount them?
@EagleGhost8 Just to be sure that it will stay nice and cool. A little bit behind the wheelbase base on both sides, oriented in my direction.
@@JulianNDL oooh okay I´ll see the video then I guess ;) But I expect that to give a lot of wind in your face/eyes. I have one on top of my R9 facing down but still some wind coming to my eyes and it´s a little annoying. But yea I´ll see it in the video how you did it. Good luck!
My R9 V2 gets warm to the touch and sometimes even hot but I never noticed the decrease on FFB
That's because you're touching the heatsink. Moza actually warns people not to touch the base whilst using it because the shell is the heatsink and will (by design) get hot.
i had the same problem with my moza r9, contacted moza and they replaced it with another one, i think the patch from February and march have some overheating issues from the factory, the new wheel was made at july and i had no issues so far with overheating
That's exactly what I did with my first R9. It was replaced by the reseller, but I'm pretty sure they replaced it with another R9 from the same batch.
The last two months I plated exclusively on my R9 and since the last update (if I remember correctly, it was around a month ago) it worked flawlessly, even after more than 3-4 hours of continuous gameplay. I'm working on another video to test its temps, outside and inside, using the program a sunscriber of the channel created.
What DD Pro you have? 5nm or 8nm Version?
I have the 8nm premium bundle.
@@JulianNDL what does Premium mean? Is it better than non Premium wheelbase, nonsense 😁 I dont have overheating isses with my r9 v2. It's getting warm, because in fact it's sn electric Motor. Every Motor gets warm in use. Naybe the fanatec is still colder because of massive oversized Motor. The DD 5nm snd 8nm are the same thing. They Just slaped in a bigger psu. I assume that this Motor ca produce even more torque with a bigger psu! Maybe the r9 runs on the Limit. The wheel base is also much smaller than the DD
@hanswurst3811 It's the package with the 8 nm power boost, and also the loadcell kit pedals plus the clutch pedal, and it costs around 1000 euro. Yes, of course, it's normal to get hot, like everything that's electronic, but the problem is how they chose to manage that heat. Why make the base so small? Does anyone care if the base is that small? Or do we prefer to be bigger and have better cooling? The R9 is amazing but, in my opinion, with poor cooling solution.
@@JulianNDL i care about the size 😁 the fanatec is so clunky... And the quick Release of moza is the best you can get!
@hanswurst3811 It is one of the best QR on the market. I don't care about the size, as long as it functions as it is supposed to be. The R9 is like a really muscular man who took steroids, and when it's time to put those muscles to work, he barely can lift anything and get's tired right away. Just my 2 cents.
Hi everyone,i am thinking to buy a direct drive wheel system.
1.Moza r5 bundle with sr-p lite break kit and f1 wheel mod.
2.Fanatec CSL DD (5nm) with mclaren gt3 v2 ,quick release adapter.
What do you prefer?
I heard that the r5 has some heating issues and in f1 game when you are cornering it loses some force feedback details.
I am so much confused what to buy actually
Drop your suggestions
Thank you!
I will recommend you to get the CSL DD Ready2race because out of the two you mentioned, you can always get the power boost kit for the CSL DD and have all the 8 nm it can offer.
@shhhfiq I'd get the CSL DD 5 nm just because you can always upgrade it to 8 nm, and also, the pedals can be upgraded to load cell kit.
Thanks for a really cool video. Appreciate your efforts, as I know how much work goes into putting something like this together.
I am curious though...what you set the FFB/Gain to in game? If you set it to 100% in game and 100% in Moza Pithouse...your base will most definitely overheat...because the FFB will peak way too high in game. You will lose details as well. Recommendation is to run this base 65% in game...then this should not be a problem and you won't lose any details around corners, etc. as the FFB won't clip in game. I have spoken with my local supplier that does a lot of events, with the R9 and he told me that they have not had any issues at these events. They run the bases at 65% in game and 100% in Pithouse. That should solve this problem.
I am still on the R5 and even though I have seen reports of overheating, I have never experienced this. Even after racing for over an hour. The guys with overheating issues are guys abusing the base, I am sorry. You should never run at 100% gain/ffb in game.
I will be getting the R9 towards the end of the year.
Just my 2c's.
No, in game FFB is always around 85-92%, while in PitHouse, it is set to 100%. I'm always setting it up so that the wheelbase never clips. I mean, no one wants to lose FFB details, hehehe, especially when that is what most of us are looking for.
65%, i think it's too low. The wheel base won't clip if you go higher. With the R9 the highest I went without clipping is around 95%, but just to be safe, most of the time, i stay lower than 92%.
You'll enjoy the R9. It's amazing. I just did yestrday a time attack betwen the R5 and R9 and it's so much better in any way. I don't meam that the R5 is bad, but the R9 is just better.
Also, thank you so much, man! I appreciate it a lot when people say their opinion in the nicest way possible and are open to dialogue! I couldn't thank you more for this!
@@JulianNDL No worries. I loved that you did a video on this. We spend a lot of money on this hobby of ours and knowing about these kind of flaws or potential flaws is good. Helps with the decision making process. 👍🏻😉
@virtualmotorheads Exactly my point. I am not attacking Moza or anything, but at the end of the day, it is about us, buyers, and we should get what we pay for. I am critisizing the R9, because I love it and it is one of the best mid range DD's, but for some reason, some people take it personally and I don't get it, becase we all paid them and we didn't get them for free. Sorry for my small rant. :D
Also, setting ingame FFB to 65%, yes, will probably prevent the R9 from overheating, but that way, you don't get the best out of the R9. It is like setting FFb intensity lower. I think the best way to get the best out of it is the external USB fans. With two fans, it didn't overheat, and it performed flawlessly.
Again, thank you, man.
i have a r5 and it does not even last a 40min race. it shuts down the force feedback. i can still drive but it sucks with no feedback. my AC is about 2 feet from the r5 base and its not helping.
Thank you so much for the info.
I also own the R5 but I did not use it in a long while now. My plan for one of the next videos is to also test the R5 to see if it overheats or not.
Mine is overheating like crazy, the logs show 60c. currently waiting for them to answer my support ticket. its ridiculous for a $400 product
Couls you please email me the logs at iuliandoran(at)gmail(.)com ?
Where do you get the logs?
@@JulianNDL I am just now seeing this, I probabl5 don’t have them anymore, I ended up sending it back to their warehouse in California where they repaired and sent back to me
Thank you for posting this. I am now seriously re-evaluating buying the R9.
HI Bernard. At the end of the day, the R9 is still an amazing wheel base, which impresses me every time I play on it, but yes, it has this flaw as long as you use it with 100% FFB and in-game FFB at the limit of clipping. Since doing this video I saw on Moza's Facebook group, so many people enjoy it to the max with one or two USB fans mounted on the sides. I also did a video where I mounted two fans to it, and they kept it cool enough so that it didn't limit FFB anymore.
this is just the problem i also had on my r9! i played mostly on f1 23 and had pithouse at 95 and in game at 90 in power and man, i could not play more then 5 min before the ffb became truly weak! this was something i tried to exploite when i first noticed it and then it just happend every time i tried after that.. i returned my base to my retailer and now i have waited over 4 weeks and haven’t heard anything yet from my retailer if i am getting a replacement or not..
Thank you so much for sharing your experience. This is what the few people that are trying to find any small and stupid reason for the overheating problem should read! I've heard so many things from that the problem is my simrig that it doesn't allow to heat to dissipate to the problem for overheating is the wheel dampener set to 55%.
Its a current "problem" and its not only you have bad luck, same here....i have DD pro and never had that kind of issue, my house is always 23/24 ° all year
Hi there. Yes, like I said, room temp shouldn't be an issue. Yes, if it's more than 30" i think, then it will be an issue.
I have a r9 v2 as well, mine never gets hot to the touch, running it at 100% with mostly rally games. It gets warm yes, but i would guess around 40°c.
It's so strange because, as you can also see in the comments section, there are people with the same problem as mine, and others are saying theirs never gets hot. Furthermore, there are guys who said they contacted Moza about the overheating problem, and Moza's response is that it's a normal thing.
@@JulianNDL Room temp makes a big difference. My house in the winter is kept at 66F in the summer I run it at 75F. If I wasn't using a fan 75F would be pushing it. At 66F the natural convection currents across the wheel base are much stronger.
@@JulianNDL Yeah it is really strange, i never had any problems with it getting hot. Some people report it gets hot but never drops ffb and others are having issues like you, where it gets really hot and starts to reduce its power.
@jimbonater The thing is that the R9 was overheating also when the temps were way down, like 2 months ago when i first bought it. Also, if Fanatec would have overheated or at least got to 40 degrees, i would have tried to cool down the room temp to 22", before record the videos, but Fantec didn't overheat, and i thought maybe this is also a scenario for other people in countries with high or even higher temperatures. The room temp was around 26-27, which is normal for July.
@themadnes5413 Exactly. Even stranger is Moza's answer to this, saying it is normal...
Hi bro, very nice setup that you have there. I have noticed that you have a very nice backup rearview mirror on your dash. Are you using an android phone for that?. Please can you help me set mine up too. What program are you using to make it work?
Thanks have a nice day.
Hi Patrick. On this rig, i don't have any accessories. Everything is from the game. It all depends on how you set up your FOV and also which car you are driving. Not all cars have electronic rear view camera.
Thanks, men, for getting back to you so fast. I'm very, very new into simracing. Men, I drive cars in dirt 2.o and assetto corsa. Cars in these games have a rearview mirror up on the windshield. When I saw that little rearview mirror on the right of your car dashboard, I thought it must be an android phone running on some program. Men, what cars do you drive, and how have you set this device up.
Thanks again sir.
@patricknchang2010 I mostly play Assetto Corsa Competizione, and the most I drive the Ferrari 296 GT3, and the McLaren 720S. I also play WRC Generations, WRC 10, Automobilista 2, Project Cars 1 and 2.
@@JulianNDL
Thanks very much for the information.
I was just talking to my friends the other day on how moza can fit 12nm into a small package and the CSL DD is so big and clumsy in comparison. I guess there is afterall a tradeoff. With a nice rig like that I think you should just get a high end wheel base and use it at lower output if you prefer that.
Yes, it is a tradeoff, unfortunately. I actually bought the Asetek La Prima, which is a dream in comparison with all the other wheelbases I own, and the fact that it can be upgraded to 19 nm or more means that even if I use it all the time on 100% power it will never be 100% of its actual power, and you can see that in the way it flawlessly performs.
Have you tried other settings? Other games? I don't own a moza, but from the outside it seems that this is more of a software problem than a hardware one. Or moza simply uses cheaper motors, which is logical considering its price, which is much lower in some countries.
I still think it's about the settings, or driver bugs. Maybe you should put other ready-made presets (even if you don't like them) and play with them?
Thanks for the video and temperature measurements!
HI. Yes, I used different FFB settings on the course of more than two months and tried different games. I actually did another video about the same problem, which I uploaded a day ago. I think there are some bad batches out there (just my humble opinion), because if you read the comments section, of this video and the new one, there are a lot of people having the same issue, while others are even using the exact same settings as I did in this video, and their wheelbase stayed cool, at around 39 degrees C.
I also thank you so much for leaving the comment and doing it in such a nice way, and also subscribing to the channel!
@@JulianNDL Yes, it's weird. I wonder how it will behave if the power is reduced? Not everyone needs that much. Do you like to fight with the car as if there is no power steering? You're playing 100%, as I understand it. Are you a big, physically strong person yourself? How much do you weigh? If we assume that the owner will be a skinny 70 kg guy, maybe he will not physically cope with such a force and will cut it in half. This is not a solution to the problem of overheating, haha, just thinking about the reasons for overheating.
@orangechannel4862 I am a big guy. I am 1.85 tall, and I weigh around 125 kg :)
Of course, not everyone needs 100%, but even so, it should be able to support long plays on 100% of FFB, and I don't think it's true or fair or normal for it to properly work only with the ideal settings, because there is no such ideal settings, it's just a matter of preferenceses. I like the maxim FFB and torque but usually not that much friction or damping. I almost never play with the same settings twice, I like to test new settings to explore, so it's hard to tell which ones I like the most... :-??
@orangechannel4862 And about the overheating problem, just earlier today, a guy wrote that he has owned an R9 V1 for a while and never had any overheating problems, and he always was playing on F1 settings but with FFB set to 100%. After the last updates, his wheel base started overheating, and yesterday, it literally broke, and now it has only 5-10% power. So I really don't know the cause of overheating. I'm also on a few Facebook groups related to Moza products, and there are quite a few people having overheating problems, both with R5 and R9.
@@JulianNDL Yes, you really ate your porridge as a child. I think that the question of power is different for you than for most - maybe that's why they don't have overheating? They just use less of the force itself, do not squeeze all the juices out of the base. But you're right that the base is required to work 100%, and it's too bad that it doesn't do this. If I lived in America, I wouldn't look at Moza.
Or the problem is really in the new drivers. Writing them is much more difficult than making a good piece of hardware.
Never had an issue of overheating would be cool if they can implement a heat sensor so we know the temperature of the unit i have never experienced the problem thou
Actually, the R9 has heath sensors, and a subscriber of the channel created a program that shows the temps and also exchanged some emails with Moza and got some answers from Moza. I haven't put it yet on the community because i'm on holiday, and I'm in another country and didn't have the chance to test the program yet.
im in australia with a v1 and can confirm ive lost almost all ffb in summer, 110% must have a fan pointed at it or its gone
Found this video searching for some info. Yesterday, my R9 V1 overheated and made a "click" that I felt across all cockpit. Since then, FFB is limited to like 5-10% I would say. Waiting for moza to accept my RMA and replace it, and when I get my replacement, sell it. Switching to Fanatec, tired of Moza stupid bugs and issues.
I am so sorry to hear that. Just for the transparency of things and so that other people won't say that it overheated because of bad FFB settings, could you please share what settings you used and if they were always the same or not. I can confirm i never had any heat related problems with my GT DD Pro, and actually, this is the idea of my next video. I will max out every setting and see if it overheats or not. According to the people who love Moza without any doubt, it should go in flames.
Also, to be fair with Moza, they just started getting into sim racing, and somehow, it's understandable they're having problems. It's like with any new car model that is launched. In the beginning, most of them have problems. I think it's more important how they deal with them and how they solve them
@@JulianNDL Bee using the same settings since I got it on July 2022. Stock Formula settings but with 100% game force feedback intensity. Ambient temperature here is much higher this summer days here in Spain (like 28ªC on my room), but this products should be prepared for it. When it broke yesterday, I was playing F1 23. Base broke on less than an hour of my gaming session. I felt that base gets physically hotter since a few Pithouse updates ago, last summer when I got it was way cooler.
@mmrt115 Thank you, and exactly my point! It should be able to handle this somehow high temperatures. How about Australia, Africa? How is the R9 handling those temperatures?! Thank you for sharing your settings! Let me know how it ended up for you and what was Moza's answer to your problem.
@@JulianNDL Hi, they are replacing the base on next Wednesday, their local spanish warehouse is on vacation now.
can you do the same test with the Cammus C5?
I was in discussions with Cammus for a C5, and they agreed to send me a C5, and all of a sudden, they stopped the conversation and never heard anything from them. After this, I was close to buying one, but the whole experience with their PR or customer support stopped me.
@@JulianNDL hmm... interesting. I bought one last week so I'll just have to trust it .
I have heard good things about it, so I don't think it's a bad purchase. Enjoy it to the max, man.
I have had both the R9 and the R12. The R9 started disconnecting unexpectedly and consistently after about a year of light duty use. I got the R12 and it has gone through similar bouts. The R12 is definitely better built, and doesn’t run as hot - but I do have a small fan mounted to my rig pointed directly at the side of the wheel base.
Has anyone else had this issue? I am primarily an iRacing player, and don’t play AC or ACC enough to notice any disconnects.
Do you use a USB extension cable or a USB hub? If yes the problem could come from there
@@JulianNDL No extender, straight USB plugged into the back of the motherboard. The USB cables are not overly long (less than. 5’ long) , they are not “worn out’. Like anything today my machine does have about a half dozen other USB cabled devices.
The machine is a $3800 self-built PC with an 850 Watt power supply. I have wondered if it was power supply related, but the wheel base has its own dedicated power supply.
You were right, i was using only 50% of ffb on acc, and it heats a lot. And also in 3 weeks the base started to feels like a g29. I regret buying this. Is not usable no matter the config.
I am so sorry to hear that. 2 usb fans will help cooling 5, and it will function properly. I know we shouldn't do that, and it should work properly, but at the end of the day, ignorning this problem, the R9 is still a great wheelbase.
thats a rly good video, actually i was looking for moza issues, to see what can go wrong, so idk if look at GT DD pro it have issue with quick release sys, ppl sas it wobble in center, on the other side moza overheat...idk wich to choose, but as i can see its a lottery what you get...in shot i live in country where that "cheap" DD wheels cost a double + customs costs, so cant take a risc to order one and waiting whats the issue will be...and send it back what will cose me about 200-300E plus..
Hi Mihailovic. You'll never feel the wobble of the axle of the GT DD Pro during gameplay. It feels sturdy as a rock. On the other hand, it's true that Moza has no wobble, the quick release system is better, sturdier. For me, both of them are good wheels, both having their flaws. It is up to the buyer which of these flaws chooses to ignore. I really do not know if i'd had to pick one, Which one would i choose. I will redo this video with an usb fan attached somehow to the R9 and see how much does it helps because this can be a good and cheap solution to the overheating thing.
@@JulianNDL idk maybe i am wrong, it could be usb, or the usb hub... on my old PC one usb port was always hot, idk why, it destroyed my dongle...also maybe setting up a fan on wheel base could help, maybe not idk, its cheap, worth of try
I got the R12 one week ago and i think its even worse ... at 100% in Pithouse and 60% (yes, just 60) in AC after 2 laps on the Nordschleife with the 911 RSR the base gets quite hot ... i didnt measure but i would guess around 50 to 55 celsius. Even Pithouse switched to the radical temperature setting on its own. Also my base has this very weird sound directly after switching on. Its like an old HDD working inside but in high frequency noise like humming or whistle. I can hear it through the room and its very annoying. But my seller makes it quite hard to do something about it even after sending a video where you can hear this noise properly.
Even my RS V2 wheel had the same issue with both of the sticks. Both after pressing stayed in the down position. But the wheel got replaced fast and its fine now.
I am already regretting not buying asetek hardware what i intentionally wanted to do.
I hear you, and I feel so sorry for you! I know how disappointing it is, after spending so much money on this gear, waiting for it to arrive and then you can't fully enjoy it. That is why I didn't buy the R12, even though that was my main option. I just got scared and also seing the difference in size between the R9 and the Asetek La Prima, made me choose the La Prima Bundle. I just posted the unboxing video of it. On short, I can say that it makes the GT DD Pro and the R9 look and feel more on the toys side. It also gets hot, it even had a sticker on the top part saying that it gets hot, I measured it temp after a few hours and it was around 50 degrees Celsius, but it never, absolutely not even once reduced FFB and i've played a lot this past week since I received it.
@@JulianNDL Thank you for your reply ... to be honest i think i got an early model or something because when i talked to a different seller, he told me that the R12's are just on the way to Europe and he was quite surprised that i already have it. Actually i wanted to buy the Asetek Forte but i didn't like the formula wheel and i really liked that Moza has so many different wheels. So i went with Moza 🙁
Let's see what will happen. I really hope that my R12 gets replaced. The FFB is very nice and i couldn't feel the strength dropping. But at least my new VRS Direct Force Pro Pedals are amazing 🤩
@@pitarinha in the report error option of the pithouse you can generate a log without send it and check the temps. mine went to 55 mosf and 72 the motor. kinda regreting already going with moza
@@jesuisFORTIO yes, i already did that and my new base will arrive tomorrow. I really hope it will work properly now, otherwise i will sell and go for asetek.
This is what scared me off the R9 over the CSL DD. That and I could get started with the CSL DD for a lower price and upgrade to the higher torque later. I have been looking at the R12 as a purchase later on, but I'm kind of scared off from Moza right now because of this. I wonder if the R12 has the same issue.
It's such a shame because it's an amazing base, and it simply offers the best and immersive racing experience out of the twoml. I'm in the process of recording a new video trying to keep it cool with two external fans.
I really don't know about the R12. I just hope it's better. I'll also get the R12 and test it, but it will be available in stock only next month, in August.
@@JulianNDL When you do please do a temp test like what you did here. That's super useful information. Heat kills. Everything.
one point still needs to be noted. If you measure a temperature outside, you can assume that the heat inside is 30-35% higher. For example, I measured 50 degrees Cels. outside, inside it was 67 degrees Cels.
At 60 degrees cel. it was 77 degrees cel. inside.
And the throttling is not based on the outside temperature, but the inside temperature.
Thank you so much for pointing it out.
I mentioned this so many times in the commenets, I think i missed pointing it out in the video, but some people didn't want to understand it. As with any heatsink, the actual temp of the device producing heat will be higher than the one of the heatsink.
@@JulianNDL That's right. I think your videos on this subject are very good. I too could only find a solution with 2 120mm fans.
I am amazed that there are so many who complain about the heat issue.... But no YTer mentions that.
The R9 is a great wheelbase. But the case is a misconstruction, or just lacks active cooling internally or much larger cooling fins.
@@bluesbrother5618 You right on point with my idea! The R9 is an amazing wheelbase which also has a really good price and talking about it's issue doesn't make it less any less good, but I think people need to know about it before buying it. And yes, bigger fins, like the GT DD Pro has, would have made it even better.
I didn't look again, but the last time I searched, my video was the only one talking about this issue, also on Google search, except for a few Reddit threads.
And actually a lot of people are complaining on Moza's Facebook page about this issue and mainly Moza's fanboys are making fun of them, like a lot of them did here on this video, but it ends there, no response whatsoever from Moza's part.
@JulianNDL I am currently using the T300 Alcantara and looking to upgrade to DD. Sadly the deeper I look, the sader I feel. Originally looked at CSL DD 8nm, fanatec website won't allow me to upgrade pedals and add desk clamp, buggy mess, then seen a many negative reviews on the customer service and qc issues. So looked at Moza, firstly no R9 bundle, so costs more to buy all separately, then come across overheating issues. I want DD so much, but stuck how to proceed. I could buy CLS 8nm second hand, but if need to repair in future I will be screwed by fanatec customer service.
@deadmanwalking1930 I don't recommend you buying them used. You may never know what could happen. I came across different stories of people having bad experiences with both Fanatec and Moza, so it can happen, and if you're not covered by warranty, it's even worse if something would to happen.
Until now, from my experience and from what people wrote on my vids, no one had bad experience with Fanatec customer support. Problems happened, which is normal, but the most important thing, they were solved by Fanatec's customer support.
I can tell you that my experience with the GT DD Pro since February this year was nothing but good! It works absolutely every time I power it on, and it never overheated or lost FFB. The only minor minus is with the wheel shaft, which, since February, needed only once to be readjusted. Other than that, it worked flawlessly.
My experience with Moza's products was almost perfect, leaving aside the overheating issue. I bought my Moza gear from a reseller, so in case of a warranty claim, it would be faster, and it was faster. I had a problem with one of the buttons on the CS V2 steering wheel, and the steering wheel was replaced under warranty within a few days. So, until now, I have had no direct contact with Moza's customer support but with a reseller.
Based on my experience so far, and again, from what people wrote in the comment section, I can recommend the GT DD Pro or the CSL DD without any doubt.
First off its strange they decided on 60C to start trottleing already, this should be fine for electronics normally.
I agree you shouldn't have to add active cooling to a passive cooled system, also strange they didn't address this kind of issues in a revision 2.
But maybe look into a wind Simulator, you can build one easily with Arduino, motorshield and simhub
60 is the radical option, actually. The regular option is 50 degrees Celsius. I am looking on Etsy to get a wind simulator. They look sick on the simrig. :D
@@JulianNDL easy to do your self search on UA-cam "DIY windsimulator simhub Arduino" my parts arrived to day, I be building it this weekend I think
it's because passive cooling isnt awfully efficient, and neodymium magnets are permanently damaged at around 80, so they need good headroom
@@stupidpieceofequipment Yes, I know i keep repeating myself, but why Fanatec can keep the GT DD Pro cool, also with passive cooling?
The range is pretty obvious. In that range skin burning could appear within seconds. It sounds like a safety measure. From a technical point of view the temperature at the wheel base outside says nothing. For a DC "motor" the critical thermal range is >150°C(windings and magnets). While the electronics is on the back and we don't know the thermal connection. This measurements says nothing about the thermal of the electronics. Even if, as long as we don't now the component thermal specification or grad it's not possible to give a statement about the reliability.
i think in general CSL DD gives better detail and smoother but moza r9 feel stronger it is strange that your experience is so different.
I don't know, but in my opinion, the level of detail that the R9 offers is more detailed, richer. I know i repeat myself, but at first, i also thought that GT DD Pro had better details, but this was only what I was remembering of GT DD Pro. In direct comparison, if you switch from R9 to GT DD Pro, it just feels a bit faded. The details are lacking something that the R9 had. It's just my opinion owning both of them and using them almost on a daily basis.
same issue. not really a deal breaker for me. Im thinking of getting a Noctua NF-A14 and having that connected to it to cool it off. it takes like 3, 15 min races with 15 min quailys on 100% ffb for it to die down.i don't think you lose much feeling but does make u spin out sometimes if it happens mid-corner. Right now i got a box fan on it and it never heats up too much.
Hi water. Thank you so much for the info. Yes, the reduction in FFB is not imense, but it is enough to make you spin sometimes. I think it would not have been a big deal for Moza to make the base a little bit bigger with a bigger heatsink or even add a cooling fan, but for us consumers it is a big deal paying so much for it and not being able to fully enjoy the 9 nm of power, without having to do other inventions to cool it down. Like I previously said, it's like buying a sports car without a cooling system, and it's up to us to cool it down.
My R9 cuts of FFB after a few laps in ACC, SETTINGS pithouse and acc only 70% torque...
Hi Biber. Wow, I am so sorry to hear that. Have you tried contacting Moza, because this is way worse than how mine overheats? I am just uploading the new video, where I mounted two USB Fans on the back of the R9 and it seems to have helped getting better temperatures and not overheating anymore.
@@JulianNDL i have my base only one month. I contact the reseller to swap it. Perhaps i try to rollback the firmware. I think with the old one i dont have that issues.
A subscriber of the channel said he fixed the overheating issue by resetting it and by installing new firmware. If you find a solution or if the reseller replaces it, please let us know.
I've owned a moza r5 for 2 months.
I've used DFGT before. My first impressions were that it got too hot.
I contacted Moza.
They said that the moza pit hous application has overheating protection
to prevent damage to the device due to excessive heat.
It cannot protect without lowering the force feed back.
In this case, we pay for R9 9NM or R5 5.5 NM,
but we have to use it with lower NM.
This situation will not be good for Moza.
In this case, I cannot recommend MOZA products.
You are perfectly right! Like i also said in the video, the Radical and Normal options in Moza Pit House are so strange. Basically, they tell us that it overheats, and it's up to us how we want to use it and somehow, like you said, not being able to fully enjoy the 9 nm of torque. Also, if they told you that they reduce the FFB to prevent damage to the wheel base, it means that this excessive heat will not do good to the wheel base in the long term. I'll also get the new R12 just because i'm curious if it does the same or not. It's just too bad because their products are simply amazing, but we can't fully enjoy them...
@@JulianNDL I was thinking of buying a moza r12 too. But I'm sure your R9 will heat up just like my R5. R9 and R12 are the same in size. R9 180W R12 216W. It just gives more electrical power and the NM is upgraded.
when this happens, the R12 gets much hotter. I believe this overheating will damage the base over time.
Lol depends on play time
It's obviously going to heat up and it may decrease in performance it happens with motors only when it exceeds like 125 that's when you'll get problems so always go with a bigger motor....
Then why does the GT DD Pro not overheat? Yes, of course, any electric component heats up, but it's about the cooling solution! You can't just say about a thing that costs 500 euros/dollars that is normal to overheat! What if this would be the same thing in cars? Would you buy a car that has a poor cooling system or any at all? Would you say "hey it's normal, it burns gas, it emits heat, so that's it. When it overheats, i just shut it off and wait for it to cool down"?
Also, you forget one aspect. The wheel base is not just the electric motor, it also has a lot of electrical components that can not outstand such high temperatures, and like one subsciber said if the outer temperature of the heatsink is 55 degrees celsius, the internal temperature is much higher.
Unless they went with a pretty stupid design of the drivers electrically: I take it a high temperature should not reduce the lifespan of the product, at least not electrically (maybe some parts might suffer fatigue due to expansion due to heat and cooling down).
Motor drivers will have their own thermal protection built-in in order to stop the driver from radically destroying itself otherwise. The bigger difference might be though that instead of reducing force slowly, it'll cut out completely and set a software fuse killing power for x-time known to have the driver and it's "typical application" surroundings cool down enough.
HI. Thank you so much for the info, and it's good to know that the lifespan won't be affected, but it's still sad that they have this problem, which in the end affects the simracing experience.
@@JulianNDL Let me be clear: it's speculation on my side due to knowing at least enough about electronics that most of the parts (unless going way outside current or voltage boundaries set by the manufacturer) will self-regulate themselves when reaching their maximums.
In most datasheets you will find a table listing "ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM RATINGS" that state maximum current draw, maximum voltage (sometimes a breakdown voltage that is way beyond normal operation), and maximum temperatures, and in cases of parts with 3 legs or more, listing the junction thermals for each connection (going from logic input to output, in case of a stage of FET's for instance).
It's a bit like how computer processors, even with their hugely complex structure will thermally limit their operation when reaching operational thresholds for temperature because breakdown of silicon or the actual gates of the transistors (these days down to sometimes mere atoms wide) suffering thermal damage and, as a result, degraded performance.
Most electronic parts work on the basis that if they start producing heat, their electrical resistance or stable operation becomes influenced. If this operation remains within boundaries set by the manufacturer (current, voltage, sometimes duration of use), the part will remain operating normal, but it will get warm.
If the temperature starts exceeding thresholds, it can cause the operation to become compromised, in sort of the same way that with high power loads connected to an extension cord, you need to roll out the extension cord in order to stop heat buildup on the inside from being unable to escape.
In an extension cord, this heat will cause the conductors inside to increase resistance ever so slightly, causing a slight temperature increase, leading to even more resistance in the wiring and so on and so on (That's how extension cords catch fire or at least melt dramatically if you keep up the current draw long enough at near-maximum draw of the cord's specifications).
The wheel's settings not limiting temperature might be the manufacturers way of letting the wheel still operate within boundaries of the electronics inside, but basically state "We only can't guarantee the wheel to continue to operate at maximum force and power all the time because the electronics will start to limit that due to heat buildup."
Important to remember is that if you measure 60 degrees on the outside casing of the wheelbase, the part(s) responsible will be flaming hot.
Silicon, depending on the mixture of other components for it (to make it more resilient to vibration or temperature) breaks down near 100-125 degrees Celsius (if you've ever seen or read about a computer processor thermally throttle itself at 90 or above, this is exactly why) so it will try to keep itself from doing exactly that.
To conclude all this: for a product with the price-tag of this wheelbase, it is....surprising and pretty ehm, consumer-unfriendly that they have this problem, and it makes me wonder whether they went with a part that when using the product at higher strengths for more trained players (I at least nearly got thrown out of my seat with my Fanatec accidentally kicked up to 100% after not realizing what one of the buttons on the wheel did :P ) might be at maximum power draw for prolonged periods of time, while the datasheet might mention "Maximum draw recommended to be at 20% duty cycle of total operation time".
So basically: Yes, you can use it at maximum, but not all the time...
And while I feel the possibility of having designed the PCB wrong might be small: when looking at modern televisions, manufacturers know exactly how to make them fail (mostly power supplies) as quickly as possible by deliberately putting capacitors of types not well capable of withstanding heat close to parts that get really warm so they cook dry on the inside.
Most datasheets on parts contain "Typical" or "Recommended placement in typical application", listing the parts around it along with thermal requirements in case of parts dealing with a massive amount of current.
Again, I suspect they did this right and we are looking at a part inside regulating itself and not using the setting to combat thermal stress means you hit the part's limit, but I could be wrong: the television example tells me that sometimes, companies can't always be trusted to do their design right, whether that's deliberate or not.
@Dutch3DMaster Hi Iris, and thank you so much for such detailed info. It's simply amazing the details you get in.
I feel bad that I did not try the wheel with lower torque power for this video to see if it also gets hot at lower torques. I don't know so much about the technical part, but for sure, the electronics have some sort of protection, hence the limitation of FFB. What I find really strange is that the wheel gets hot after only about 20-25 minutes of gameplay, which is nothing timewise, and it simply ruins the driving/gaming experience. How i see it, again without any technical expertise, they should have just made the wheel base larger (it's way smaller than the GT DD Pro) or added some sort of cooling to it. Also what amazes me is that the GT DD Pro never gets warm, i never experienced any FFB reduction, but it's bigger, also the heatsink is way bigger.
@@JulianNDL This is a good observation, I had missed looking at the housing of the thing in the beginning of the video and I was surprised to not only see it being a lot smaller, but also not using the casing as a heatsink (at least not in the obvious sense like with the Fanatec one). I opened my GT DD Pro up (noticing how there were no "Breaking Seal Voids Warranty" stickers, got to love German technology/products) and I was pretty impressed seeing how basically the whole assembly is encased by the aluminium casing for heat transfer (along with the design and production quality of how some parts fit together).
Next to heat transfer, there's also the amount of thermal mass in the casing in a much smaller device like the Moza causing trouble: next to insufficient convection, the amount of material to deposit heat into also plays a role, and it might be that in this case the housing is literally not big enough and can be heated up enough and from there end up in the vicious circle.
Your speed damping is extremely high, never seen it that high in any game with r9 might be why? Just an idea, use moza settings boosted video and see uf you have same problem
I don't think so. That shouldn't be a reason for overheating, but i'll also try reducing it to see if it has any effect.
Also, like I said in the video, i used the same settings for Fanatec, even more i also maxed out each FFB setting. I literally abused it on so many occasions, and it never overheated, not even getting warm.
@@JulianNDL yea I wouldn't you the same settings for a different manufacturer
@@JulianNDL moza has it's guide for games I suggest you try those and see if there is any difference
@bubbles1525_ Why do you suppose I used the same settings all the time on the course of two months? Like i said in my video, this is the 2nd R9 base, after the first one was replaced under warranty for overheating issues. I used every time different FFB settings on the course of two months, but most of the times FFB was set 100% and torque to 100%. Furthermore, the base was not clipping, and it overheated no matter what, if FFB and torque were set to 100%, even with default presets from Moza.
Dude, the fact that you know 3 people, that's not relevant. I repeat, just read the comment section of the video, and you'll know many more people having the same issue as I do. The main goal of this video was to see if other people have the same issue as I do or if it is just a particular case, and apparently, it isn't. I didn't do this video 2 months ago, when i first bought the R9, i waited two months to have and make a rational decision and a documented one, but apparently this doesn't count, a part of you know better than me what settings I used more than two months.
I also don't get why some of you act like the R9 is a precious thing that does not work properly except with the perfect settings, otherwise it's ok for it to overheat! Guess what? Most of the people who buy steering wheels don't know how to tweak them properly, and they use default profiles or max out everything, thinking that way they'll get the best out of it! If the wheel has proper cooling solution and proper software, and I will repeat this over and over, like the GT DD Pro has, it will never overheat! It's not a problem of settings or tweaking. It's a problem of poor cooling solution.
The reason the Moza base get hot is because the heatsink IS the outer shell. It doesn't have two layers and is why it's a smaller base The reason you don't see the same heat with the fanatec DD base is because the heatsink is inside the base surrounded by an outer shell. Take off the fanatec outer shell and temp gun the heatsink. You'll find that the temps are pretty much the same as the Moza DD.
Yes, I agree, but this is a very negative aspect of Moza and a positive one for Fanatec. As I kept saying throughout the comments: Moza R9 has poor heat management.
@@JulianNDL But it doesn't. It's just that the heatsink IS the base. Fanatec is the same, but you don't feel the heat because the base is just a outer shell, it's not a heatsink. The heatsink is inside and is going to be around the same temp as the Moza base. Moza designed it this way to keep the size of the base as small as possible.
@HxR-eSports Yes, but as long as the wheelbase limits FFB due to overheating, it’s a poor heat management solution, unlike Fanatec. In more than a year and a half my Gt Dd Pro never overheated or limited FFB, not matter what FFB settings I used.
My Asetek LaPrima also has the same configuration as the R9, it burns on the outside, but it never limited FfB due to overheating, not matter how hard I abused it.
@HxR-eSports Personally I could not care less about the size. It’s looks over functionality you’re talking about, and as long as it overheats and limits FFB, their heat management solution fails!
@HxR-eSports This whole video was not about the outer temp, again, I could not care less. It was about the fact that it limits FFB, considerably I could add, while you need it the most. And as long as it limits FFB, again, the chosen looks over functionality and the heat management solution they implemented, fails.
Ai eu un Csl élite supérieur en tout, bugs courant, de paramétrage constant,ai repris mon vieux G29.
my base doesnt heat up much att all wether racing or drifting
That is good, and I am happy for you, but I also envy you guys who don't have problems with their R9. Do you use it with 100% FFB and torque?
I use my R9 v2 from two days but is always cold
What settings do you use? I`m jealous of you guys! I also want my R9 to work flawless!
@@JulianNDL Setting factory. Only suggestion remove the temperature control, stay on critical
@user-ig7mm5pt6n It's only on critical, and on Critical, it only limited FFB a couple of times when it jumped over 55 degrees celsius.
Yep she gets hot and alot of that has to do with force feedback settings and which track you racing on. Like for oval racing the temperature is much higher than most road racing as there is a constant force on the wheel. I use a usb fan on the Moza r9 now and runs cool as a cucumber. I also use a usb fan on my Buttkicker amp as that gets hot.
I contacted Moza r9 about the heat and said it is totally normal for it to get hot. Moral of story just run a fan on the base, even a small usb fan. I can even crank the ffb up with a fan running and no heat problems.
As I said, changing my FFB settings drastically made it run cooler. The more 'mechanical ''artifical" ' settings you use to make it feel heavier the hotter it will get.
For me, changing the FFB settings didn't help. I also used the default settings for GT3 from Moza pit house, and it also got really hot.
how do you "mount"? a usb fan?
@@SynchroFPS They have usb fans that basically look like a pc cooling fan with rubber feet on Amazon. I just lay that on top.
@@Username_Invalid oh ok. Thanks
Just a heads up for anyone looking to buy Moza, my r9 wheel base that is less than 3 months old failed and also the quick adapter broke, I was in touch with Customer service but they stopped replying to me all together. Look elsewhere or buy from a US retailer. Do not buy directly from them, they’re based in china so there’s nothing else I can do but take an L.
I am so sorry to hear that, and hopefully, they'll find a solution for you. Maybe I can help in any way? If you can do a video about it, i can share it on the channel. Maybe it will put some pressure on them, making it public?
Anyways, that is why I bought all my Moza products from a local distributor and not directly from Moza, because in case of anything bad i can take actions against the retailer, but it is so much harder if not impossible to do anything against Moza, in China.
@@JulianNDL thanks for the reply, I’m going to make one last attempt to reach them today if not that video is definitely coming.
@@veganburrito My pleasure, man! I hope they'll answer and replace it, because that's how things should be done.
Thank you for your neutral and very objective video about this topic... very rare these days.
The temperature control strategy in the MOZA software is such a big red flag for me.
Was torn between the Fanatec CSL DD vs MOZA R9 (the latter because of the much better QR) but seeing the temperature issues, guess i might go with the Fanatec stuff.
Even more bothering is the fact, that the MOZA R9 Wheelbase has ALOT more metal involved than the Fanatec.
Hi Razor. Thank you for your appreciation. Yes, it's very odd for me, why absolutely nobody talks on UA-cam about the overheating problem. Are you sure it has more metal involved? Because it's smaller than the GT DD Pro, or maybe even that's the problem, it's more cramped up than the GT DD Pro. The R9 is amazing, and I can honestly say that it is better than the GT DD Pro in terms of FFB, torque and everything else, but the overheating and the reduce of FFB somehow diminishes that... and it's such a shame.
@@JulianNDL In this video you can see all the metal used for the housing/cooling ua-cam.com/video/DoirpUohBBY/v-deo.html
Moza R9 is all metal except the back cover of the unit.
Maybe the Moza R9 V2 uses a different less efficient motor or a faulty batch of motors. Sadly both manufacturers have their flaws. Sometimes i think, it can't be that hard to make a well rounded product without having to pay an arm and a leg.
@R4ZORLIGHT Exactly what I said, all manufactuters have their flaws, it's up to us which ones we close our eyes to. Some viewers said that they keep their wheel bases cool with some fans. I'll also try that for the next video to see exactly how cool it can remain
@@JulianNDL But that will create noise and one reason (for me atleast) to buy a DD base is the nearly non existant noise output (CSL DD/QR introduce some noise as well, sadly). Maybe i will just wait longer before i pull the trigger. Still hoping for Fanatec to release a new mid range wheelbase (around 12nm) and/or QR2.
@R4ZORLIGHT I'm also curious what Fanatec's answer to Moza's R12 is. The QR of GT DD Pro is rock solid and does not make any noise, but the wheel's shaft makes the clunky noise. At first, it's strange, and you'll think that'll snap in two, but up to this point, I had no problems with it, except that id needed to be redjusted once.
YOUR RETURN SPRING STRENGTH SETTING IS PROBABLY CAUSING YOUR OVERHEAT ! It should be at zero for FFB games. Maybe try a more suitable pre-set for your experiment. Sorry about the caps but I want your attention.
I won't double answer. I already answered your previous comment, and also, there's no need for caps on, i reply to every comment.
@@JulianNDL Thank you for replying quickly. I've answered you on the other post too.
If you’re purchasing from a reseller, he more than likely purchased a bad batch of product that wasn’t supposed to make it to market or he purchased a pallet of defective devices were returned to Moza previously
That makes no sense, at all. Yes, there can be bad batches, but for Moza to sell a defective batch to a reseller, that makes absolutely no sense at all. They official Moza reseller. Almost nobody buys directly from Moza, because it’s a harder process than buying from an official reseller that is located in the same country.
@@JulianNDLcompanies sell bad batches all the time. They know and still send shit out!
If you like the content I produce, please consider subscribing to the channel: ua-cam.com/channels/l5xcXq_UQepqBxMBuiM_Mg.html .
50-60 C is perfectly fine. No issue at all. You should therefor not use the conservative mode
Actually, it is not fine because it starts to limit FFB avove 55 degrees C, even on Radical mode. Keep in mind that 55 is the outside temp of the heatsink. The actual temp of the motor and internal electronics is much higher.
@@JulianNDL Then you may have a faulty device. 55C is normal and should not limit FFB at all.
@TheFrontyer Most probably, there are a lot of faulty batches, judging by the comments this video got. 55, again, is the outside temp. The inside temp is way higher. And I know I keep making this comparison, but the GT DD Pro never gets warmer than 30-31 degrees celsius.
@@JulianNDL I've been reading it's not uncommon for the Simagic Alpha Mini(A base that blows both the Moza R9 and the CSL DD out of the water as far as reviews go) to get so hot you can't touch it for longer than a few seconds(According to forums upper operating temperature limit is 60c). I wonder if Moza just has their safeties set too conservatively.
@lakaiskates8064 Yes, my Asetek La Prima also gets really hot. You can barely touch it, but it never had any FFB limitations or losses. It works flawlessly. Possibly, they set the temp limit lower just to be safe, I don't know.
This is a known issue, but people don't want to look like mugs spending money on a defective product.
I've had so many people saying that it is my fault that the settings i used were wrong, that in the end it doesn't matter that it overheats because it is normal for an electric motor and so on. Even though there are so many people having the same issue, even though i documented and proved everything i say in my videos, even though my first R9 was replaced under warranty for the exact same issue. I really don't understand them. I mean, how can we progress and correct the flaws if we act like everything is good, if we act like we don't see the problem?
I have a fan on my R5 and I run the heck out of it. 140mm 12 volt fan wired to a 12 volt wall plug. Your room temp is pretty high.
A USB fan is your best bet as my fan is overkill. The wind going past me does add immersion as well.
Hey Jimbonater. I wondered where you left. :p
I know the room temp was high, and that is why i started the test with the GT DD Pro to see if the temp has any effect on it, and it didn't, as I thought it would be normal. I will also add a USB fan to see how much it helps, i guess it's the best option to keep it cool.
Did u stick the fan on the back of the base or? I'm struggling with overheating and i think i might have to get a fan to cool it off. Curious on the mounting tho.
@kimiharold9839 Hi Kim. I bought two fans, but i didn't have time to mount them and test the R9 with them. I am so sorry, but it's hard with family and a newborn baby. I'll do my best to finish the video by tomorrow.
@@JulianNDL No worries mate, family is more important for sure. I'm at the 2nd r9 base as the first got replaced by Moza, but still overheating after 30 to 40 minutes. Guess fans are the way to go with the R9 v2
@kimiharold9839 Appreciate it. I really love you guys. The simracing community is such a great community!
R9 v2 really have way better ffb details compared to dd pro 8nm? You can always go usb small fan :v
Yes, the FFB details are richer, more refined, and the whole feeling is reacher. If you go from the R9 to the GT DD Pro, the GT feels faded. I know i could get a USB fan, but it is like buying a car without any cooling system, and it's up to me to add the cooling system. It's silly somehow, but i guess it's the best way to keep the R9 cool.
@JulianNDL i wanna go from csl dd 8nm to moza r12 so it's really worth it and additional nm make it even sharper ty for info!
@@GoSu2KL depends on how involved you already are into the fanatec ecosystem a r12 and es wheel (the one id recommend) is gonna be 720 if that looks good go for it youll probably have no issues selling the csl dd for a respectable price the only problem with the moza ecosystem is the pedals the only good pedal imo the crp is the same price as the r12 other than the srp-lites that are suprisingly good if you replace with elastomers, theyre dashes are good but not as good as something using sim hub, the wheel bases also get hot, their software is good with some minor bugs that are normally fixed quickly, the handbrake and shifter are the best bang for the buck deal imo but they dont have a sequential so i like the vm shifter better if you use both enough to warrant it, personally though id get a alpha mini because you cant return anything moza unless unopened box and unused and their customer service is starting to look like fanatec v2 and sim hub bundles with a wheel and base are only $100-150 more if you do buy moza buy from a reseller id recommend sim motion or sim shop because they actually let you return (they do have a 15% restocking fee though) but if it comes doa then you'll have a better chance not getting your ass stretched and wallet violated over it. But id recommend the r12 the most out of anything moza and the 15nm sim magic the most out of sim magic, fanatec is like trustmaster rn cheap to start but becomes a wallet violation also, qr2 where are you. buy once cry once if not youll cry three times if your smart enough not to f*ck it up again, have a good day and think everything through and research as much as you can before you spread youll wallet wide open and violate its no go hole like Danny DeVito on ectasty
@@GoSu2KLes, that is why all the powerfull wheel bases out there, because with more power they can deliver more details, even if you're not using them at their maximum torque, like 12 nm, 16, 21 and so on. I have no experience with them yet, but i would also recommend having a look at other brands too, like simucube, simmagic maybe even asetek, and if you are still looking to get the R12, i would also recommend getting it from a reseller.
@insomnia1670 in my county Poland fanatec is ultra cheap i got for 300 euro used clubsport v3 with damper kit and brake performance kit. Fanatec is from Germany so any warranty is like 2 days. We have official resellers of moza, simagic, asetek i see also simucube buy way more expensive (only simucube) i have handbrake connected to clubsport v3 it improves cable management for me because i connect only two usb to PC. The thing is that I'm now in state that wanna go deeper and i can go used dd1 in similar price as new R12. For now i want wait because i go yolo csl dd 8nm and after like 3 month price drop significantly. On pc changing base with wheel is ultra easy and i gonna keep V3s. But you know how it works moza is new player and 12nm is enough i just collecting as many information i can. The DD1 starting to be pretty old and R12 have new motor inside so compared in same nm to R9 it can have better ffb i mean if you set R9 and R12 to let's say 8nm in drivers R12 should be better. It's hard choise because motor that have around 12nm is enough to be like forever base. More is better off course but 12 is perfect sweet spot
what's with the subtitles? need to get rid
Hi there. You are the first one to be complaining about the subtitles, but even so, I will take it into consideration! Thank you.
The reason behind subtitles is that there are people who can't watch the video with sound on, there are also deaf people who maybe would like to know what i'm talkin' about in the video, also maybe not everyone understands what my "pal" Ethan is saying and subtitles help with that.
The pre-set that you are using is the KARTING pre-set. This is the only one that has a WHEEL SPRING STRENGTH setting above zero that is designed for non FFB games. If you read the info on this setting you will notice that it is used for games that have no FFB of their own. You are playing a game with GT cars so the best setting to use would be the GT pre-set. What is happening to you is that you are playing a FFB game and also asking the R9 to use a setting designed for non FFB games. I have had an R9 for quite a while now and have had absolutely no overheat issues. Owning a DD FFB wheel does require you to develop a little knowledge of how to use it much like anything that isn't a toy. Why have you have chosen to use unsuitable settings to prove your point with no mention of your results for the other more suitable pre-sets ?
Some of you just see what is in front of you, without even wanting to think above that and ignore what you don't like! No mention, again, at all from you why Fanatec is not overheating, no matter what FFb settings i used, also I said pretty clear in the video that already one base was replaced under warranty for overheating issue. The base was tested, and the company confirmed it overheated and sent a new one! I waited two months to do this video, just to be sure i'm not the one making the base to overheat and to receive a new one, to be sure it's not one faulty base! It overheats no mather what settings i use, if FFB and torque are set to 100%. Even with FFB set to 90%, it gets up to 51 degrees celsius, after 20 min of gameplay. These settings were used JUST for this video, and it's, again, pretty obvious that on the course of two months, i used different settings every time i tested it. If my "bad" settings made the base to overheat and also for most of the people that commented on this video, which i'm pretty sure they all had bad FFB settings, why does the GT DD Pro does never overheats even with EVERYTHING set to 100%?
@@JulianNDL I can see what is in front of me. I took the time to pause your vid and boot up Moza Pithouse to check your settings. In the vid the settings you are using have Return Spring Strength turned up. Try turning that setting off and see how you get on.
Also, these were not karting settings. I will do another video in the next few days for sure, just for everybody to be at peace.
@@JulianNDL Yeah they aren't actually a pre-set at all but they are close to the Karting preset with the Return Spring turned up. Please try using the Moza GT pre-set next time you do your test. I think its probably a fairer test if you use an appropriate pre-set. Obviously you are having issues and I can spot a potential problem. I'm not spending my valuable time to just disagree with you nor to throw myself onto the alter of blind brand loyalty ! Good luck with your tests.
Dude, i am not being defensive, but I just don't like when people from an entire thing take just the facts that they like and suit them. You keep ignorning the fact that Fanatec not even once got warm, not mather what settings it had, from all the settings maxed out, and i literally mean all of them to default presets. You keep ignoring that a wheel base was already replaced for the same problem i talk in my video, you keep ignorning the fact that i waited more than two months to make this video, i waited to be sure of what i'm saying, exactly for comments like yours. I just mentioned that it got hot, but it could be just a faulty wheel base, i didn't want to make a fuss out of it until i had the wheel base replaced under warranty. You keep ignorning most of the comments saying they have the same problem. Furthermore, there was a guy in the comments section who had the wheel base smoking. I never said that my FFB settings were perfect, but on the same hand, they were not even remotely stupid or as close as maxing everything out. What about if i have maxed out every FFB setting? The wheelbase should have been on fire, but what you are saying, and that takes me back to my question: What about Fanatec? Above all, i said so many times that i like the R9 better than the GT DD Pro, but i just can't ignore some of the negative parts of it. The wheel base has poor thermal management.
Never happened to me
I'm so glad to hear that. What settings are you using?
I did my little test. Base 9. BeamNG Drive. The total power is at 100%, the effects are at 4, everything in the equalizer is at 50%. The most pleasant settings. The steering wheel is 35 cm, 1.2 kg. There's also a CS, but it's just shit. My friend and I played all day, the base no rested. Purchased in December 2023. As a result, there is no heating, it feels slightly warm. I weigh 90 kg and go to the gym, he weighs 80 and works as a farmer. Once again, no heating. There is no morality, I'm just voicing observations. If you want me to test something else, write to me.
Hey man, thank you for the comment and for the info. I just love when people do their own tests and, even if their result are different than mine or they don't agree with me, but they say it in the nicest and constructice way possible.
If you'd like to test your base with the exact settings I used in my video where I talked about the R9 overheating, would be awesome from your part. There was another subscriber who tested his R9 with the exact settings, and his wheelbase did not overheat.
Now, regarding the overheating issue. For the last three months, I took pause from UA-cam, and doing videos because I was close to a burnout, but I still played here and there, and I exclusively used my R9. The R9 worked flawlessly, so I said maybe they have fixed the overheating issue with an update. So I started recording a new video, testing the R9 in like 5 racing games. It worked perfectly, for like 4 days, until the verry last gameplay, in WRC 10. It limited FFB completely randomly. So, I had a look in the text file where the R9 logs its internal temps. There were times when the motor even went up to 85-90º Celsius. Most of the times the internal compoments were above 55-60º Celsius. I still have to edit the video, but somehow, I wanted to avoid another massive hate wave on the channel, so I didn't do it yet.
I am 99.9% sure that it is only a matter of power settings and road details. You squeeze all the juice out of the base, but I play relaxed. When working at all its 9 nm, it feels bad, but with quieter settings, it manages.
And the steering wheel. Have you played with CS? Maybe you can try to put another steering wheel that weighs 2 times less? KS or ES, or a normal steering wheel from the car? A Chinese copy of MOMO.
Don't worry about the channel and the video. Take them off the way you want, and as often as you want. Otherwise, it will just turn out badly. It is better rarely, but with love! @@JulianNDL
And yes, I forgot to add the most important thing: in the game itself, the power value was set to 130. I don't know what Beamng measures it in. @@JulianNDL
Bonjour, cela fait peur d'acheter un ce modèle de base moza.
It's not scary. Leaving aside the overheating problem, the R9 is an amazing wheel base and still one of my favorite. I'm working on a new video because I think with the latest updates, Moza has solved somehow the overheating problem. I've played only on my R9 lately and didn't experience FFB loss anymore.
Sounds like robot
HI Chris. Yes, because it's an AI voice. I never hide this. I'm still struggling with myself to do the videos with my own voice. I'm Almost there :))
Playec hour ling races with r9 never lost feedback
R9 v1 or V2? What level of FFB? 100%? I've tested it the last few days with the FFB set to 90%, and it did not overheat.
@@JulianNDL 100 ffb strength but I have torque to 95, I have v2
“Reseller” key word!
Rebonsoir, cela ne doit pas arrivé, vous avez payé cette base en temps que produit fiable,ai vu que ce souci est récurant sur le R5 et R9.
That is true, it's a flaw, I completely agree, but you know how it is...there's no perfection. Hhehehe.
I don't know for sure about the R5. Some people said they have overheating problems with their R5. Mine overheated with the CS V2 huge steering wheel on, in WRC, but it worked flawlessly in ACC with the ES Formula wheel.
I don't deny your observations, that aside your testing method is extremely flawed. Without probing electronics you can't say what temperature sensitive components reach.
Heatsink on DD is much bigger that's for sure, reading temperature of the heat sink is quite pointless, also material emissivity is different, changed by the paint type and color as well, larger heatsink will be colder on the outside then closer in.
The fact stays, Moza can overheat while DD does not, but internal temps data is not provided or measured here, in the same situation DD could be overheating but letting itself run full throttle regardless, although there's a lot more to that story the size of heatsink is obvious differentiator that should in grantee better heat dissipation.
Would be nice if moza provided optional pc fan mounting spot and connector, with passive coolers, just moving air around it a litter faster does a lot.
You are not right, and I'll tell you why because my measuring temps coincide with the temps when the wheel base limits ffb. Yea, it's not 1:1, but it is clo.se enough. Of course, the outside temp will differer from the inside one. Also, since I made this video, a subscriber of the channel created an app that reads the internal temps of the wheelbase, and I posted this on the community tab, and reading his graphs, my temps somehow coincide with the internal temps.
That is why I said you are not right.
@@JulianNDL I'm picking at test method. I can tell just looking at two units side by side which one has vastly better passive cooling (obviously DD). You'd be right testing with your hand, difference should be big enough.
This kind of testing leads to right conclusions coincidentally. It wouldn't be reliable at all if units were more closely matched heat sink size, or power of induction motor hence significant difference in overall heat output.
Of course, it's not perfect, and it can't be, as long as I measure the exterior, but even so, doing that it can give you some ideas and comparing that with the temps for limiting FFB, you can draw some conclusions. When I recorded this video, I had no idea about the sensors of the base, and that they can be read, but the conclusion is somehow the same, at least in my point of view and that is that the wheelbase overheats in some conditions, and it shouldn't do that.
I have r9 v1, playing 7 hours radical mode, equaliser very high,never get heat
What about torque and FFB? They're at 100%? From what people have commented so far, anything under 95-90% doesn't overheat.
Oh wow I just wanted buy r9 v2 but after this review im unsure.
At the end of the day, the R9 is still an amazing wheel base with a small flaw (so far for just a part of the R9s), which can be easily solved with an external USB fan. I didn't do this video to prevent people from buying it because it is an amazing wheelbase, and it is still one of my favorite wheelbase so far, but I did it let people know what to expect when some is buying it, especially because no one is talking about it on youtube. Funny enough reddit and facebook groups are full of people talking about this issue.
@@JulianNDL Thanks I guess then im going for this base. But will do more research.
If you're going to use it at 90% torque and ffb, it does not overheat, but you can feel it's weaker and you'll want more. If you think you can live with 90% you'll have no stress with it, or if you're like me and want it stronger, try getting the R12, because with it you'll have so much more head room.
I can't tell if this is an Ai voice or not
Hehehe. That's a good thing, i suppose. This is Ethan, an AI voice indeed. I never hid this aspect. I'm trying the next video to be with my own voice. :")
@@JulianNDL hah, yeah it's impressive
Rebonsoir, vous allez me prendre pour un ringard, utilise toujours un vieux G29 qui a 2500 heures d'utilisation et fonctionne des journées de 8 heures sans broncher, fiable.
I also owned a G29, and indeed, it was reliable. I never had any problems with it. I keep saying in my videos that the G20 and the T300 are not worth buying anymore, but it was a good beginner wheel back in the days. Nowadays, with the DD wheels, they indeed are old and outdated. That being said, there is nothing wrong in owning it still and enjoying it to the maximum. Not everyone is willing to pay so much for DD wheel.