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This product should come from the factory stress tested, consumer should not have to come up with a work around out of pocket. I don’t feel you were wrong for informing the community. Need more genuine feedback on the tube keep up the good work.
Thank you, man! I really appreciate it. You are 100% right. That was my entire idea with these 2 videos, but a lot of the people, I don't know for what reason, took it personally.
Yes, I read all the comments…sorry about that. If it helps… I did a ton of research and tried a lot of different things. From what I gathered it seems that ACC for some reason demands a lot from the base. Despite all in game and pithouse settings you will notice that adjusting the caster within the car setup in ACC has massive effect in FFB feeling and weight. This, I think makes it really difficult to replicate results. Just in case it helps. Will try to find that link with the temp log. Thanks again
Please check whether you still have old LUT files from other steering wheels in one of the ACC folders. That was the case for me and it impacted the settings of my R5 in a major way.
If you have a 3d printer, there's a file for a fan shroud on thingiverse for the R9. I believe it's for the V1 but I did a bit of trimming and made it so the connectors on the back are accessible. You attach a 120mm PC fan to it and use a little 12 volt 4 pin power supply to power it. Keeps it nice and cool. I don't have the little screen that screws to the top of the wheel base so you'd probably have to cut a bit more to fit it.
Thank you for the info, man. Actually, I have posted on the community tab a link with a file for 3d printing a case for mounting a fan in the R9, plus a program that reads the internal temps of the R9.
I mounted a 120mm router cooling fan on the top of mines. It use to get really hot on 100% ffb. As the temps elevate, I switch the fan up a level...On high, the base still was warm, but nowhere near the heat it produced without it
Case tempeture is not valid measurment. Hot case = heat spread. We want that. It's like CPU cooler. I understand problem behind, but for testing you should think about force measurement.
It is valid up to a point, meaning that the internal temp is a bit higher than the case which is the heatsink of the motor. Actually I compared the internal temps from the log file with external temps of the heatsink and the difference was always around 5-10 degrees.
@@JulianNDL I don't understand why you used an external thermometer if you had logs. But still, high temperature doesn't mean an issue. To check it we should have motor characteristics with a force drop-off curve or measure force by own.
Well, if you’d read the comments section you’d find out why. I just can’t write the same things to everybody that asks the same questions about things we previously spoke about and cleared. But hey, let’s go again, why not. I did not know about the log file when I did this video. A subscriber of the channel pointed that and even created a program that reads the temps in real life. I posted this in the comments section also with link for everybody to download the program. Second of all, dude, I can’t care less about the temp as long as THE WHEELBASE functions properly without limiting FFB and ruining the driving experience. An example I give everybody is my Asetek LaPrima which gets at least 20 degrees hotter, but, dude, it never limits FFB. It never glitched, it never overheated (overheated in terms of limiting FFB). Again, i could not care less about how hot or warm it gets! As long as it works as it is intended to work, I don’t care about the heat. It’s an electric motor, it has electrical components, it is normal to generate heat. What is not normal is how it handles and dissipates the heat.
@@JulianNDL Thank you for your response and patience. I agree with you what matters. After watching the video, I was under the impression that you treated temperature as an indicator of strength.
I have an R9 v2 and I was worried at first that everyone said that it’s only warm to the touch and mine was hot. In ACC I run settings recommended by the guys, I don’t have a thermometer, but by touch I think it gets around to 50 degrees. I thought that it cut ffb in a longer race because the wheel was lighter, but as I changed tires the ffb became heavier just like at the start. From my experience ACC gets it pretty hot, but I played dirt rally 2.0 a lot recently and it only gets warm although I run 60-70% ffb in pithouse with max torque at 100 and almost default settings ingame. I didn’t run any other sim extensively yet with my R9.
I also play WRC 10 and Generations, and it gets as hot as with ACC. For me, it gets over 50 degrees every time i set the FFB and Torque at 100%. If their under 100%, it only gets to 45-46 degrees celsius.
those fans sound pretty loud, does it get annoying? Im thinking about picking up a r5, pretty much cuz its my only option here in canada without having to pay 100s in custom fees to ship fanatec. but i game with friends on pc alot and the fan noise could be an issue.
The fans are really loud and annoying, but I think I bought some of the worst fans out here because they were the only ones I could find at that moment. There are some really good and silent PC fans from Noctua that basically make almost no noise, and also, I think they push more air than the ones I got for this video. I just recorded yesterday a video with my R5, I didn't have time to edit it, but today, i'll do it and upload it, but because you said you want to get the R5, i'll tell you on short my conclusions about it. With the CS V2 wheel, with the Default GT3 profile in Pit House and with the default FFB settings in WRC10, the R5 went up to almost 60 degrees Celsius, and exactly like the R9, above 55-56 degrees it limited FFB. On the other hand, with the ES formula wheel, it never went above 51 degrees celsius in Automobilista 2. Leaving these aside, i'm still impressed by how good the R5 is, and I can tell you that even with the huge and heavy Cs V2 wheel, it feels absolutely amazing. It's a little bit dialed down from the R9 in terms of FFB, but i still find it amazing.
This is when u buy 3.99 $ Fans at Walmart instead of 9.99 $ noctua or else quality Fans wich makes Zero noise at all even on Higher speeds while the airflow is 100 cubic Meters Higher per Minute with massive Static pressure (Air) on the wheelbase :D
@fourtysevenak Actually they were 7,99 euros a piece (you can also see the price in the video), which is close to 10 dollars a piece. It wasn’t meant to be a permanent solution, rather than a test to see if the R9 can be cooled or not. ;)
@@JulianNDL i got R9 too , youre right , it gets warm , but for me it does not throttle , so i think your wheelbase isnt damaged , iam goin to try to build some own solution , i think it should be easy to place the wheelbase on a aluminium plate with some fins to enlarge the cooling surface of the whole base , i think with a big cooling pad it should take some load of heat from the base away if u try somehting with fans take a look on some noctua or arctic fans , they are really quite , but i think it gets distracting too if u have the airflow infront while playing 🤔🤔 so a passive cooling solution should be the main target
Brilliant, simple solution. My first thought after I saw the fans was you were creating a wind simulator, maybe one with 4 fans, 2 pointed at the wheel and 2 either side pointed at you.
To be fair, i got the idea from @Jimbonater. Yes, I am planning to buy a windsumulator and point it to the wheelbase. That would be the best case scenario, not to have interference on my monitor.
The temp doesn't matter and nobody will measure their wheelbases's temp. It matters that the base can't keep providing full force feedback for a long gameplay, due to overheating issue. If you're not using it at 100%, yea, then you are fine, but most of the people using it at 100% ffb and above 85 in game FFB have overheating issues. My Asetek LaPrima also heats up to 50-55 degrees, but I never experienced any FFB drop. That is the problem with the R9. Also, keep in mind, like another subscriber pointed out, the inside temp is actually around 30% higher than the exterior one of the fins. For me and for a lot of people, the fans do a good job helping the R9 keep a constant delivery of FFB without any losses.
@kyus1974 Setting it to 100% FFB won't make it clip. Setting the ingame FFB on some of the games above 95% will make the base clipping. And even so, that shouldn't make it overheat. I don't know where people are getting these ideas, that it is normal for it to overheat and lose FFB. I clearly demonstrated that with my GT DD Pro, which never overheated with every setting in-game and in Fanatec control panel set to 100%, after more than 3 hours of continuous gameplay.
Yes setting ffb to 100% will make it clip in most games with a 9nm wheel. overall ffb strength is a combination of software and in game settings. Not sure who has told you its normal for the r9 to overheat.@@JulianNDL
@kyus1974 It won't make it clip, just setting the FFB to 100% in Moza pit house. Clipping occurs after a certain in-game FFB level. In my case, in ACC that is above 85%. Clipping occurs when the game is outputting more power than the wheelbase can handle. A lot of people, actually, are saying that.
Nice vid. You climbed out of the rabbit hole ! I’d kind of say just stick an oscillating tower fan in the corner of your room when it’s a warm day. It should move the air around and keep you cool too. 👍
Thank you, man. Yes, probably a tower fan will also help, but I don't think as much as these two close to the wheel base. I need to replace them with computer fans, because I think the computer fans will not create interference.
I love the initial montage heading to the store. Are the fans powered by your computer USB slots? You may want to try powering them using a wall adaptor. The 140mm computer fan I use is right under the monitor and causes no interference. Its powered by a separate 12volt power supply. I'm not sure how two USB fans could affect the monitor signal unless they are creating noise on the ground plane of the computer.
HI Jimbonater. Thank you so much. I tried to do the video like a vlog, somehow. :D They're battery-powered but also have USB cable. They were both pluged in the wall adaptor. Yes, it was pretty strange why they were causing interference, but that's nothing, I can always replace them, i'm just happy that two fans can keep the R9 cool. :D
HI ToeSukker. As i already proved, in this video and also in others, if the wheel base is properly working, FFB settings don't play a role in overheating. Those settings are preference settings, and people don't understand this! Everything is and was set in the interval the manufacturer allows you to, just because they are PREFERENCE settings. ;)
Also, before leaving comments on things that already were discussed and also, if you watched the other video, you should have seen the pinned comment, in which another subscriber, that has a proper working R9 V2 tested his wheelbase with my exact same settings and his wheelbase never got over 39 degrees. But whey, why would you be informed, right? :)
@@JulianNDL There's absolutely no reason to be running speed dampening, wheel dampening, and friction. If you're running all of those you clearly desire a stronger/heavier wheel. Perhaps the R12 or R16 would better suit your tastes. With torque set to 100% in pithouse and 100% in game you should have zero reason to be running those extra settings. You're effectively adding more stress onto something that is already at it's maximum settings
@@Vrand0Well, dude, that is not my problem! First of all you don't need a degree in FFB settings to find the perfect FFB settings, otherwise your wheelbase will burst up in flames. Second of all, how do you know my in game settings? Again, if you would have informed yourself, you would have seen that my in game settings were never above 90%. Third of all, again, it's about being informed, if you would have just read the description of the previous video, it would have been so much better and easier for both of us. You know what the problem is? That some wheel bases and here I`m talking about R9's (like I just told you, that a kind subscriber of the channel tested his R9 V2 with my exact settings and his wheelbase didn't get over 39 degrees), and about other manufacturers, like Fanatec. I tested and proved in another video that the FFB settings, NO MATTER which ones you use, DON'T HAVE an impact over the temperature! I basically tortured my GT DD Pro and it never overheated, no matter what FFB settings I have used! Not even with everything set to 100%. Leaving aside what I just wrote, and let's just presume that the base overheated because my stupid settings! Whose fault is it? Did I overclocked it? Did I use any setting above 100%? Did I set everything to 100%? NO! Everything was, again, in the parameters that the manufacturer allows you to use. Nothing too much, nothing too less. You know, if people like you, would just start questioning things, and not just assume that a piece of equipment that costs as much as the R9 costs, need the absolutely perfect settings, otherwise it is ok for it to overheat, these things would never happen, because more people would complain about it, and just accept it. You know what? I also just bought the Asetek La Prima. Guess what? That wheel base is almost 3 times bigger than the R9. Guess what? I stressed it to the max, with insane stupid settings and it never overheated! Guess why? Ah, yes, guess what? Fanatec GT DD Pro is almost double the size of the R9! And guess what, again? It never overheated, no matter what stupid settings I used and no matter how hard I abused it.
@@Vrand0 Everything that I just told you is written in the description of the video, is pinned in the first comment of the same video and also is documented in another video, this time about Fanatec. I like to strongly argument my sayings and my videos and also to strongly document them! I`m not just throwing stupid things out there. And above all this, I forgot to tell you, but this is also written in the description of the first video, that I did these 2 videos about the R9 overheating problem after more than 2 months since I received it, since I tested it. Of course I tested it from default profiles to stupid settings, and every time it overheated. Above all these, this is the second R9 V2 I own. The first one was replaced under warranty for the exact same reason: OVERHEATING! And, above above all these, just read the comments section of this video and the first one! I`m not the only one experiencing this issue. There are a lot of people having the same problem, for some of them their R9 actually ended up in smoke. That is why I keep telling people, guys before throwing anything out there, try to be informed. Everything is just one click away.
Nice video. I put a 120mm usb fan on top of mine, fan even has rubber feet for laying flat, cool as a cucumber. Settings have the most to do with the temp.
Don't stress too much with it. If it overheats, just lower FFB and torque a little bit. From my experience, as far as you don't set them to 100%, it will not overheat.
@@JulianNDL I can report back after a few good hours of use, no overheating! A good 90 minutes of 100% force on Nurburgring in BeamNG and its not even the slightest bit warm. Even managed to shave off almost 2 seconds from my pb lap time in one of the cars, i’d say we’re winning
Are you guys really racing with these settings at 100%? I can't even control the car when it's that high, FFB is so strong it seems impossible to drive.
HI. I think it's a matter of taste and also testing so many wheels I got used with them and with higher torque power. Yes, for me, 9 nm of torque is ok. I am planning right now to buy the R9 or the Asetek La Prima, which offer 12 nm.
I have a CSL DD 8NM, and even at ambient temps of 33°C it feels cool to the touch after hours of use. Moza should have added active cooling to the R9, I've used wheelbases with active cooling, the fan didn't run continuously and to be honest was never an issue. I'd much rather have a reliable unit with a fan than one with inconsistent FFB. I think Moza has potential and I see there's a V2 R9 out already, hopefully better optimised. Tbh the only reason I went with Fanatec was their experience in the field, that said I still waited until they had ironed out initial teething troubles with production and replaced the feeble an inadequate shaft clamp before using it.
@MrMaldezzar It's not a black or white answer. I'll detail why. First of all, i'm just talking based on my own experience, not based on what I read on the internet or on other reviewers. I like the GT DD Pro because, in what is now more than a year, it never disappointed me. It always performed flawlessly, without any problems or overheating, leaving aside that I had to readjust the wheel shaft once this year. I like the R9 because it offers way more power and torque than the GT DD Pro. Ffb details are around 20% richer, more detailed. Both offer good FFB details, and you won't go wrong with any of them.
@MrMaldezzar I'm also based in Europe. Yes, as a whole package, the R9 is more expensive. It is worth it as long as you know it can overheat and it needs an external cooling solution. I can recommend you have a look on SimRacer.at. They ship the same day the items they have on stock.
Not gonna lie but your wheel position looks painful. If you continue to race like that you better have some really good insurance if your wrists go bad. Secondly putting on EMI problematic devices is not a great solution at all. I'd return the fans and buy better ones with proper shielding. Third I believe it's not a solution. Wheelbases aren't made to be ran at a 100% of their design spec. I always suggest to aim and stay between 60-80% max. If you exceed it you need a higher rated base (e.g. the 12nm one from Moza or the many alternatives on the market). If it already does that in GT cars with tiny GT/formula wheels it'll be much worse in different cars with even bigger wheel rims.
Hi there. Have you thought that it may look wrong because of the video angle? For my height and chair position, this was one of the best wheel angles. It may look strange from the side video, but again, for me, this was the best angle. Second, like I told in the video, yes, it was not the best cooling solution, but I wanted to know that the base can be cooled down. And it can be! And what you are saying that the wheelbases are not made to be run at 100% is a complete non-sense, my friend, seriously! Nobody wants to pay 500 bucks for something and use just 60-80% of it! What about buying a car with 4 seats and you're only allowed to use 2.5 of them, otherwise you exceed the weight limit! Would you still buy it? No, the wheel bases should be made and are made to be run at 100% and should have a propper cooling solution for that, for example, the GT DD Pro. ;) I don't get why people are defending Moza so much because, like me, they also pay a lot of money for their products! It's not like we're getting them for free. If you're comparing any moza wheelbase R5, R9, R12 to any other similar brand with similiar torque power, you will immediately see why Moza has overheating problems! Their wheel bases are just tiny. Boosted media compared the R12 wheel base to the Assetek Invicta LaPrima wheel base. The R12 is like a third of the Assetek base. They both offer 12nm power and both cost almost the same. The R9 is like 30-35% smaller than the GT DD Pro. So, my question is, why are they making so tiny wheel bases?
@@JulianNDL To be fair though, your R9 is a good 8 months old. I guess I was hoping that they might have tweaked the design a little by now and fixed the issue. Probably hoping a bit too much though, right? 😟 What kind of degrading does lowering the strength to 90 do to the overall FFB? Do you notice any difference?
@HxR-eSports Yes, that is true. It’s 8-9 months old. It could be that they improved it, but I have no idea. It’s not a huge difference but it is there.
ive got the r9 v2 with srp loadcell pedals that came with these sticky gel pads to go under pedals for floor mount but i dident use them so i cut 4 corners of them and put them on bottom of a pc fan and it sits rite on top of my r9 wired straight into pc power supply. it never moves and no vibration because its gel stuff. ive never had a problem with losing force feedback but did notice it gets a bit hot sometimes and had this stuff lying around so just did it anyway. i would share pics if wanted
Sure, i will gladly share those pics. What settings are you using? Are FFB and Torque set to 100%? Some people are saying that their base geslts hot but no FFB loss, other are saying that their never get warm and other are experiencing FFB loss, like me.
i run acc at 100% in pithouse and main ingame setting but in car settings are usually no higher than 68% and it runs pretty cool but i dont really do long races. oh whats an easy way to share pics
I have an R5, it's my first DD and I'm very impressed with it. But I'm wanting to exchange for the R9, do you think it's worth it? Is there a big difference in FFB from the r5 to the r9?
It is quite a difference, and I think it is worth upgrading it, but I would rather suggest buying the R12. You have more head room with it, preventing it from overheating.
@@JulianNDLwould the r9 still overheat if its used on 80 percentage ffb in pit house because I’m planning on buying it soon so this would help me a lot
@@JohnDaging yeah, i get what you're saying, but what i'm trying to say is that the wheel components are working way too hard for it's designed cooling, wich is passive, and i would guess that the base being aluminium and all is the whole heat sink, but then again, i don't have a Moza wheel base
Actually the case for most of the DD wheels is also the heatsink. It was designed to conduct and dissipate heat from the electric motor and electric components and keep them cool. That’s also the case for the R9, but, in my opinion, the form factor of the R9 is way too small, hence all the overheating problems. In comparison, the GT DD Pro is way bigger, it has a bigger case/heat sink, and it does not have the overheating problems of the R9
Sempre ouvi alguns comentários a respeito do aquecimento do R9 mas não dei muita importância a isso e comprei, no primeiro dia de testes usando o padrão GT atingiu temperatura alta reduzindo drasticamente o ffb de uma forma ridícula. parece brincadeira que tenham projetado algo tão ruim, penso que a Moza em respeito aos clientes deveria providenciar gratuitamente um dispositivo para diminuir as temperaturas. eu estou muito decepcionado, sinto que joguei muito dinheiro no lixo.
There's nothing to worry about overheating. I mean, it's important to know that they might and will overheat but can be easily solved with an external fan. From my experience, if you go down to 90% ffb and torque, no, they will not overheat anymore.
@ricardoa1661, it's not silly levels, and it should not overheat, in my opinion. That is why I compared the R5 or the R9 with the GT DD Pro, which will never heat, no matter what FFB settings i'm using, but again, nothing that can't be solved with one or two cheap usb fans, or yea, lowering the FFB. That is why I recommend getting a more powerful wheelbase to have some headroom with FFB. For example, that is why I bought the Asetek La Prima. It has 12 nm, but with the upgrade kit from Asetek, it can go up to 18nm, so even if I use it all the time at 12nm, the motor will never work at 100% of its capacity, and it never overheats.
@@JulianNDL saying the csl never overheats is a lie. Cause there are many reddit threads saying the opposite. These things do overheat and there could be many reason.
@ClipofTheDayy I've said my GT DD Pro never overheats, and it's a fact for me and for my wheel base, fact proven, no matter what settings i've used. I can't talk about other's people wheel bases! Everything I say on my channel is based just on my experience with gear bought out of my pocket. On a second note, there are bad copies of every electrical and electronical component out there, so I can't argue with you that other people may and have problems with their wheelbase. In fact, also on the channel, a lot of people complained about having problems with their Fanatec wheelbases.
so after all this testing, did you feel that changing settings in pit house did the job of keeping the base cool enough so you don’t have to have the fans? because thats the message you get from the guys in the support discord channel that its all about the settings to keep it from loosing ffb and its not a fault on the R9 base😅
Yes pathetic service and guys in moza discord.This wheel base overheating with the settings they promote and feels excellent for the first 10 minutes 😀, after that we have torque cuts like its 3kn.Those settings without damper, friction to zero as they suggest if nothing
@@GreekSIMRACING yes i mean its like they will not admit at all that some bases have a fault! but i think that if you can’t run you’re base with everything at a 100% then theres something wrong i feel like in my opinion 🙈
@@stianvennesla they insist that their wheel base run cool and smooth.I have seen my temp logs from error reports.Wheel base have 3 sensor spots controlles,mos, motor they go from 34c to 65c in just 15 mins with this passive cooling.According to radial even at 60c we have FFB cuts and this situation is with settings they suggest 'not aggressive no friction, damping etc with 100 gain on pithouse and 75% on ACC.If i blast all settings wheel base goes in safe mode
@@GreekSIMRACING i think that they should address this problem and start to work out a solution on maby active cooling on the bases or have a different design on the base itself. or perhabs this problem can be solved tru a software solution even maby🤷♂️ but i think they regardless need to do something to be fair!
Yes, it can be done, as long as FFB intensity and torque are under 90%. If you set them to 100, it will easily jump over 50 degrees Celsius, no matter what other settings you are using. This is at least the case with my R9 V2 unit.
Yes, I ended up mounting them in the back of the wheel base, each on a side of the wheelbase. I did this because I had really bad fans that were causing interferences in my monitor, but usually, people are mounting them directly on the sides of the wheelbase.
@@JulianNDL Thanks! I am thinking of getting two PC case fans and mounting them similar to how they are mounted on CPU heatsink i.e. super close. Not sure how to keep them snug and close. Might just get a couple of strong elastic bands?
Yes, two is better. I tried using one, and it was not enough. Actually, I have put on the community of the channel a 3d print file for printing a mount for the R9, if you have access to a 3d printer.
There is no problem in reaching those temperatures. Also with the fans you are lowering the temperature mainly on the surface. Inside the engine you should be getting only a couple of degrees less.
Exactly, you are right! That's the outside temperature. The inside temp, the actual temp of the electric motor is way higher. Well, as long as it cuts or limits FFB power, it is a problem that it reaches those temps. Also, again, when comparing it to the GT DD Pro, that thing runs at least 20 degrees Celsius lower. Also, I have to disagree with you regarding the fans. It's case acts or should act at least as a heat sink which disipates the heat and cools down the motor, so as long as it stays as cool as possible, it disipates more and faster temperature from the electric motor.
@@JulianNDL I really think that without fans the internal temperature is not much higher than the outside temperature since it rises very slowly from the inside where the heat is generated, to the outside. After a few minutes where the external temperature stops increasing, it can be considered that the internal temperature is equal to the external temperature. But when you use the fans you are cooling the surface of the case and that does not affect the internal temperature of the engine too much. But I insist. There is no problem that an engine of this type is working at those temperatures that would be around 60° in a hot environment.
@arielcor7392 It does, because, I repeat myself, the case acts as a cooling device for the electric motor, being passive cooled. And as long as the cooling device is cool, the electric motor has a lower temperature thanks to the heatsink that disipates the temperature faster and better. It's thermodynamics. Also, it doesn't matter how fast or slow the temp is rising. It matters on those peaks of temperature how fast and proper the heatsink can get rid of the temp, so that the electric motor can properly work. Again, like I also told other people, it's not just about the electric motor. It's about all the internal electrical components of the wheel base that need a lower temp to properly work.
@arielcor7392 To make a paralel, it's like the intercooler of a car. The actual fan of the intercooler cools down the liquid that cools down the engine. Again, it's thermodynamics and heat transfer. Well, in my case, the fans act like the fan of the intercooler, and the heatsink acts like the liquid that cools down the engine.
@@JulianNDL I fully understand the process. For this reason I insist that the 10 degrees that you are decreasing on the surface have almost no effect on the temperature of the motor windings, which is where the heat is generated because that is where the electric current that generates the magnetic field circulates. And for this reason it is irrelevant that the external temperature reaches 60 degrees, which is the temperature at which the windings are internally. It is true that there is a temperature gradient but it is very small. It is considered that the external temperature is practically equal to the internal temperature in passive cooling.
And to respond to your nonsense comment, yeah, you’re right. I just read the manuals, off all the wheelbases I own, and the first thing written in all of them is that you can’t own or use any of them without basic electronics knowledge, without basic thermodynamics knowledge, without basic rocket science knowledge, without basic materials properties knowledge and so on. Heck, just to be sure, before owning any wheelbase you need to have a PhD in all these domains. 🤦
I beg your pardon? Depending on the Pithouse settings, you can go up to 95-96% ingame FFB without clipping! Do you see any clipping in any of my videos? No, there is no clipping!
@KnowerofThings I totally disagree with you, and also, it makes no sense. I don't know what wheel base you have, but for me, that was never the case with all the wheel bases i owned or i still own.
@@JulianNDL hmm it is standard to set wheel base to 100%ffb from the wheel software and limit the ffb in game to avoid clipping not the other way around.
Alright very interesting video again! Thank you for making these! I use the set up from SimRacingSetups on F1 22 from this video: ua-cam.com/video/PcV0DFH6gjE/v-deo.html I used his settings on F1 22 too and I really liked them so went for his settings again for F1 23 and really love them again.
Thank you, too, for watching and commenting on my videos. I didn't play F1 that much lately, and I still have to buy F1 23, but for sure, I'll do it. Thank you for sharing the link with the settings. I'll give them a try.
Have you tried contacting Moza? Did you buy yours directly from Moza or from a reseller? Also, try resetting the wheelbase and install a fresh new firmare. Actually with the latest firmware mine works much better than before.
@@JulianNDL I think he means use the fans. In my case since I have a box surrounding mine I really did need to do something. The box actually helps with cooling as it routes the air around the R5. It looks cheesy, but it lets me have the monitor up as close as possible. I fingers barely miss the stand 😁
If you like the content I produce, please consider subscribing to the channel: ua-cam.com/channels/l5xcXq_UQepqBxMBuiM_Mg.html .
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Give me your discort,i will pass you me Temps from log,it hits 65c on motor
@thexdgamers9265 Unfortunately, for now, I don't have Discord, but I can give you my e-mail address: iuliandoran(at)gmail(.)com .
If i pay 100% i want 100% performance...
Couldn't agree more with you!
Exactly, the sort of temps his R9 is running at it obviously should of had active cooling or is faulty.😊
This product should come from the factory stress tested, consumer should not have to come up with a work around out of pocket. I don’t feel you were wrong for informing the community. Need more genuine feedback on the tube keep up the good work.
Thank you, man! I really appreciate it. You are 100% right. That was my entire idea with these 2 videos, but a lot of the people, I don't know for what reason, took it personally.
55 degrees for mechanical components is nothing, if you aren't experiencing ffb reduction just run it and stop worrying.
I'm not worrying, man, but I think it's a problem that people need to know about and talk about. As long as it has a warranty, i'm fine with it.
@@JulianNDLitems are made to heat up duh
@SIMRIG412 Of course, but they’re not made to overheat and limit ffb, that is why they have cooling solutions.
Yes, I read all the comments…sorry about that. If it helps… I did a ton of research and tried a lot of different things. From what I gathered it seems that ACC for some reason demands a lot from the base. Despite all in game and pithouse settings you will notice that adjusting the caster within the car setup in ACC has massive effect in FFB feeling and weight. This, I think makes it really difficult to replicate results. Just in case it helps. Will try to find that link with the temp log. Thanks again
Please check whether you still have old LUT files from other steering wheels in one of the ACC folders. That was the case for me and it impacted the settings of my R5 in a major way.
My man got that "school bus" driver angle on the wheel.
:))
If you have a 3d printer, there's a file for a fan shroud on thingiverse for the R9. I believe it's for the V1 but I did a bit of trimming and made it so the connectors on the back are accessible. You attach a 120mm PC fan to it and use a little 12 volt 4 pin power supply to power it. Keeps it nice and cool. I don't have the little screen that screws to the top of the wheel base so you'd probably have to cut a bit more to fit it.
Thank you for the info, man. Actually, I have posted on the community tab a link with a file for 3d printing a case for mounting a fan in the R9, plus a program that reads the internal temps of the R9.
I mounted a 120mm router cooling fan on the top of mines. It use to get really hot on 100% ffb. As the temps elevate, I switch the fan up a level...On high, the base still was warm, but nowhere near the heat it produced without it
Case tempeture is not valid measurment. Hot case = heat spread. We want that. It's like CPU cooler. I understand problem behind, but for testing you should think about force measurement.
It is valid up to a point, meaning that the internal temp is a bit higher than the case which is the heatsink of the motor. Actually I compared the internal temps from the log file with external temps of the heatsink and the difference was always around 5-10 degrees.
@@JulianNDL I don't understand why you used an external thermometer if you had logs. But still, high temperature doesn't mean an issue. To check it we should have motor characteristics with a force drop-off curve or measure force by own.
Well, if you’d read the comments section you’d find out why. I just can’t write the same things to everybody that asks the same questions about things we previously spoke about and cleared. But hey, let’s go again, why not. I did not know about the log file when I did this video. A subscriber of the channel pointed that and even created a program that reads the temps in real life. I posted this in the comments section also with link for everybody to download the program. Second of all, dude, I can’t care less about the temp as long as THE WHEELBASE functions properly without limiting FFB and ruining the driving experience. An example I give everybody is my Asetek LaPrima which gets at least 20 degrees hotter, but, dude, it never limits FFB. It never glitched, it never overheated (overheated in terms of limiting FFB).
Again, i could not care less about how hot or warm it gets! As long as it works as it is intended to work, I don’t care about the heat. It’s an electric motor, it has electrical components, it is normal to generate heat. What is not normal is how it handles and dissipates the heat.
@@JulianNDL Thank you for your response and patience. I agree with you what matters. After watching the video, I was under the impression that you treated temperature as an indicator of strength.
@WoszczuSays My pleasure, man.
I have an R9 v2 and I was worried at first that everyone said that it’s only warm to the touch and mine was hot. In ACC I run settings recommended by the guys, I don’t have a thermometer, but by touch I think it gets around to 50 degrees. I thought that it cut ffb in a longer race because the wheel was lighter, but as I changed tires the ffb became heavier just like at the start. From my experience ACC gets it pretty hot, but I played dirt rally 2.0 a lot recently and it only gets warm although I run 60-70% ffb in pithouse with max torque at 100 and almost default settings ingame. I didn’t run any other sim extensively yet with my R9.
I also play WRC 10 and Generations, and it gets as hot as with ACC. For me, it gets over 50 degrees every time i set the FFB and Torque at 100%. If their under 100%, it only gets to 45-46 degrees celsius.
those fans sound pretty loud, does it get annoying? Im thinking about picking up a r5, pretty much cuz its my only option here in canada without having to pay 100s in custom fees to ship fanatec. but i game with friends on pc alot and the fan noise could be an issue.
The fans are really loud and annoying, but I think I bought some of the worst fans out here because they were the only ones I could find at that moment. There are some really good and silent PC fans from Noctua that basically make almost no noise, and also, I think they push more air than the ones I got for this video.
I just recorded yesterday a video with my R5, I didn't have time to edit it, but today, i'll do it and upload it, but because you said you want to get the R5, i'll tell you on short my conclusions about it. With the CS V2 wheel, with the Default GT3 profile in Pit House and with the default FFB settings in WRC10, the R5 went up to almost 60 degrees Celsius, and exactly like the R9, above 55-56 degrees it limited FFB. On the other hand, with the ES formula wheel, it never went above 51 degrees celsius in Automobilista 2. Leaving these aside, i'm still impressed by how good the R5 is, and I can tell you that even with the huge and heavy Cs V2 wheel, it feels absolutely amazing. It's a little bit dialed down from the R9 in terms of FFB, but i still find it amazing.
This is when u buy 3.99 $ Fans at Walmart instead of 9.99 $ noctua or else quality Fans wich makes Zero noise at all even on Higher speeds while the airflow is 100 cubic Meters Higher per Minute with massive Static pressure (Air) on the wheelbase :D
@fourtysevenak Actually they were 7,99 euros a piece (you can also see the price in the video), which is close to 10 dollars a piece. It wasn’t meant to be a permanent solution, rather than a test to see if the R9 can be cooled or not. ;)
@@JulianNDL i got R9 too , youre right , it gets warm , but for me it does not throttle , so i think your wheelbase isnt damaged , iam goin to try to build some own solution , i think it should be easy to place the wheelbase on a aluminium plate with some fins to enlarge the cooling surface of the whole base , i think with a big cooling pad it should take some load of heat from the base away
if u try somehting with fans take a look on some noctua or arctic fans , they are really quite , but i think it gets distracting too if u have the airflow infront while playing 🤔🤔 so a passive cooling solution should be the main target
R5 doesn't have any problems
Brilliant, simple solution. My first thought after I saw the fans was you were creating a wind simulator, maybe one with 4 fans, 2 pointed at the wheel and 2 either side pointed at you.
To be fair, i got the idea from @Jimbonater. Yes, I am planning to buy a windsumulator and point it to the wheelbase. That would be the best case scenario, not to have interference on my monitor.
Wouldnt worry about 50 degrees, my ambient room temp in australia in summer is just under 40 and ive not experienced any ffb fade.
The temp doesn't matter and nobody will measure their wheelbases's temp. It matters that the base can't keep providing full force feedback for a long gameplay, due to overheating issue. If you're not using it at 100%, yea, then you are fine, but most of the people using it at 100% ffb and above 85 in game FFB have overheating issues. My Asetek LaPrima also heats up to 50-55 degrees, but I never experienced any FFB drop. That is the problem with the R9.
Also, keep in mind, like another subscriber pointed out, the inside temp is actually around 30% higher than the exterior one of the fins.
For me and for a lot of people, the fans do a good job helping the R9 keep a constant delivery of FFB without any losses.
100% ffb on the r9 will be clipping in most sim games anyway, so i wouldn't recommend that.@@JulianNDL
@kyus1974 Setting it to 100% FFB won't make it clip. Setting the ingame FFB on some of the games above 95% will make the base clipping. And even so, that shouldn't make it overheat. I don't know where people are getting these ideas, that it is normal for it to overheat and lose FFB. I clearly demonstrated that with my GT DD Pro, which never overheated with every setting in-game and in Fanatec control panel set to 100%, after more than 3 hours of continuous gameplay.
Yes setting ffb to 100% will make it clip in most games with a 9nm wheel. overall ffb strength is a combination of software and in game settings. Not sure who has told you its normal for the r9 to overheat.@@JulianNDL
@kyus1974 It won't make it clip, just setting the FFB to 100% in Moza pit house. Clipping occurs after a certain in-game FFB level. In my case, in ACC that is above 85%.
Clipping occurs when the game is outputting more power than the wheelbase can handle.
A lot of people, actually, are saying that.
Nice vid. You climbed out of the rabbit hole !
I’d kind of say just stick an oscillating tower fan in the corner of your room when it’s a warm day. It should move the air around and keep you cool too. 👍
Thank you, man. Yes, probably a tower fan will also help, but I don't think as much as these two close to the wheel base. I need to replace them with computer fans, because I think the computer fans will not create interference.
@@JulianNDL Beautiful gaming room by the way.
@@splatracer7726 Thank you. 😊
I love the initial montage heading to the store. Are the fans powered by your computer USB slots? You may want to try powering them using a wall adaptor. The 140mm computer fan I use is right under the monitor and causes no interference. Its powered by a separate 12volt power supply.
I'm not sure how two USB fans could affect the monitor signal unless they are creating noise on the ground plane of the computer.
HI Jimbonater. Thank you so much. I tried to do the video like a vlog, somehow. :D
They're battery-powered but also have USB cable. They were both pluged in the wall adaptor. Yes, it was pretty strange why they were causing interference, but that's nothing, I can always replace them, i'm just happy that two fans can keep the R9 cool. :D
After seeing the FFB settings you used in last video it's no wonder why your base was overheating...
HI ToeSukker. As i already proved, in this video and also in others, if the wheel base is properly working, FFB settings don't play a role in overheating. Those settings are preference settings, and people don't understand this! Everything is and was set in the interval the manufacturer allows you to, just because they are PREFERENCE settings. ;)
Also, before leaving comments on things that already were discussed and also, if you watched the other video, you should have seen the pinned comment, in which another subscriber, that has a proper working R9 V2 tested his wheelbase with my exact same settings and his wheelbase never got over 39 degrees. But whey, why would you be informed, right? :)
@@JulianNDL There's absolutely no reason to be running speed dampening, wheel dampening, and friction. If you're running all of those you clearly desire a stronger/heavier wheel. Perhaps the R12 or R16 would better suit your tastes. With torque set to 100% in pithouse and 100% in game you should have zero reason to be running those extra settings. You're effectively adding more stress onto something that is already at it's maximum settings
@@Vrand0Well, dude, that is not my problem! First of all you don't need a degree in FFB settings to find the perfect FFB settings, otherwise your wheelbase will burst up in flames.
Second of all, how do you know my in game settings? Again, if you would have informed yourself, you would have seen that my in game settings were never above 90%.
Third of all, again, it's about being informed, if you would have just read the description of the previous video, it would have been so much better and easier for both of us.
You know what the problem is?
That some wheel bases and here I`m talking about R9's (like I just told you, that a kind subscriber of the channel tested his R9 V2 with my exact settings and his wheelbase didn't get over 39 degrees), and about other manufacturers, like Fanatec. I tested and proved in another video that the FFB settings, NO MATTER which ones you use, DON'T HAVE an impact over the temperature! I basically tortured my GT DD Pro and it never overheated, no matter what FFB settings I have used! Not even with everything set to 100%.
Leaving aside what I just wrote, and let's just presume that the base overheated because my stupid settings! Whose fault is it? Did I overclocked it? Did I use any setting above 100%? Did I set everything to 100%? NO! Everything was, again, in the parameters that the manufacturer allows you to use. Nothing too much, nothing too less.
You know, if people like you, would just start questioning things, and not just assume that a piece of equipment that costs as much as the R9 costs, need the absolutely perfect settings, otherwise it is ok for it to overheat, these things would never happen, because more people would complain about it, and just accept it.
You know what? I also just bought the Asetek La Prima. Guess what? That wheel base is almost 3 times bigger than the R9. Guess what? I stressed it to the max, with insane stupid settings and it never overheated! Guess why?
Ah, yes, guess what? Fanatec GT DD Pro is almost double the size of the R9! And guess what, again? It never overheated, no matter what stupid settings I used and no matter how hard I abused it.
@@Vrand0 Everything that I just told you is written in the description of the video, is pinned in the first comment of the same video and also is documented in another video, this time about Fanatec.
I like to strongly argument my sayings and my videos and also to strongly document them! I`m not just throwing stupid things out there. And above all this, I forgot to tell you, but this is also written in the description of the first video, that I did these 2 videos about the R9 overheating problem after more than 2 months since I received it, since I tested it. Of course I tested it from default profiles to stupid settings, and every time it overheated. Above all these, this is the second R9 V2 I own. The first one was replaced under warranty for the exact same reason: OVERHEATING! And, above above all these, just read the comments section of this video and the first one! I`m not the only one experiencing this issue. There are a lot of people having the same problem, for some of them their R9 actually ended up in smoke.
That is why I keep telling people, guys before throwing anything out there, try to be informed. Everything is just one click away.
Nice video. I put a 120mm usb fan on top of mine, fan even has rubber feet for laying flat, cool as a cucumber. Settings have the most to do with the temp.
Thank you, man.
Have a Asetek Forte, never gets really hot. Doh i run it in sims with about 50%
Have one coming in tomorrow, really hope it got built during a batch that doesnt have overheating problems. Going to be very disappointed if it does.
Don't stress too much with it. If it overheats, just lower FFB and torque a little bit. From my experience, as far as you don't set them to 100%, it will not overheat.
@@JulianNDL I can report back after a few good hours of use, no overheating! A good 90 minutes of 100% force on Nurburgring in BeamNG and its not even the slightest bit warm. Even managed to shave off almost 2 seconds from my pb lap time in one of the cars, i’d say we’re winning
@iamapineapple5724 Wow! That is really great, man.
Are you guys really racing with these settings at 100%? I can't even control the car when it's that high, FFB is so strong it seems impossible to drive.
HI. I think it's a matter of taste and also testing so many wheels I got used with them and with higher torque power. Yes, for me, 9 nm of torque is ok. I am planning right now to buy the R9 or the Asetek La Prima, which offer 12 nm.
Also, i'm a big guy. I'm 1.84 and well over 120 kgs.:))
I installed 2x140mm fans. But I only use one. From this point on I can play for several hours without losing power with a cool base
Would you like to share with us some pictures? It's good that such a simple solution works and improves the R9.
@@JulianNDLua-cam.com/users/shortsKYvau5741D4?si=kWcz9l2oISEwC9rs
I have a CSL DD 8NM, and even at ambient temps of 33°C it feels cool to the touch after hours of use. Moza should have added active cooling to the R9, I've used wheelbases with active cooling, the fan didn't run continuously and to be honest was never an issue. I'd much rather have a reliable unit with a fan than one with inconsistent FFB. I think Moza has potential and I see there's a V2 R9 out already, hopefully better optimised. Tbh the only reason I went with Fanatec was their experience in the field, that said I still waited until they had ironed out initial teething troubles with production and replaced the feeble an inadequate shaft clamp before using it.
You are totally right. That is exactly how my GT DD Pro also is after hours and hours of gameplay. Actually, both my R9s were the V2 version.
What you prefer Fanatec csl DD 8 nm or MOZA r9 ? Who has better track detail and feel what the car is doing ?
@MrMaldezzar It's not a black or white answer. I'll detail why. First of all, i'm just talking based on my own experience, not based on what I read on the internet or on other reviewers.
I like the GT DD Pro because, in what is now more than a year, it never disappointed me. It always performed flawlessly, without any problems or overheating, leaving aside that I had to readjust the wheel shaft once this year.
I like the R9 because it offers way more power and torque than the GT DD Pro. Ffb details are around 20% richer, more detailed.
Both offer good FFB details, and you won't go wrong with any of them.
@@JulianNDL Yep I sold my Fanatec CSL DD and now I don’t know if I buy another or try MOZA . In EU MOZA is more expensive maybe 150 euro then Fanatec
@MrMaldezzar I'm also based in Europe. Yes, as a whole package, the R9 is more expensive. It is worth it as long as you know it can overheat and it needs an external cooling solution. I can recommend you have a look on SimRacer.at. They ship the same day the items they have on stock.
It’s been a week since I submitted a ticket and I am still waiting to hear back from them about my base overheating like crazy
I'm so sorry to hear that. Have you tried contacting them on Telegram? I've read that they answer faster there. :-??
Not gonna lie but your wheel position looks painful. If you continue to race like that you better have some really good insurance if your wrists go bad.
Secondly putting on EMI problematic devices is not a great solution at all. I'd return the fans and buy better ones with proper shielding.
Third I believe it's not a solution. Wheelbases aren't made to be ran at a 100% of their design spec. I always suggest to aim and stay between 60-80% max. If you exceed it you need a higher rated base (e.g. the 12nm one from Moza or the many alternatives on the market). If it already does that in GT cars with tiny GT/formula wheels it'll be much worse in different cars with even bigger wheel rims.
Hi there. Have you thought that it may look wrong because of the video angle? For my height and chair position, this was one of the best wheel angles. It may look strange from the side video, but again, for me, this was the best angle.
Second, like I told in the video, yes, it was not the best cooling solution, but I wanted to know that the base can be cooled down. And it can be!
And what you are saying that the wheelbases are not made to be run at 100% is a complete non-sense, my friend, seriously! Nobody wants to pay 500 bucks for something and use just 60-80% of it! What about buying a car with 4 seats and you're only allowed to use 2.5 of them, otherwise you exceed the weight limit! Would you still buy it? No, the wheel bases should be made and are made to be run at 100% and should have a propper cooling solution for that, for example, the GT DD Pro. ;)
I don't get why people are defending Moza so much because, like me, they also pay a lot of money for their products! It's not like we're getting them for free. If you're comparing any moza wheelbase R5, R9, R12 to any other similar brand with similiar torque power, you will immediately see why Moza has overheating problems! Their wheel bases are just tiny. Boosted media compared the R12 wheel base to the Assetek Invicta LaPrima wheel base. The R12 is like a third of the Assetek base. They both offer 12nm power and both cost almost the same. The R9 is like 30-35% smaller than the GT DD Pro. So, my question is, why are they making so tiny wheel bases?
I was just about to jump on an R9 Moza DD bundle. Is this overheating thing still an issue to this day? Or did Moza fix it with their latest units?
My R9 still has it, as long as I use FFB and Torque in Moza Pit House to 100%. If you’re ok lowering it to 95-90% it will work almost flawless.
@@JulianNDL To be fair though, your R9 is a good 8 months old. I guess I was hoping that they might have tweaked the design a little by now and fixed the issue. Probably hoping a bit too much though, right? 😟 What kind of degrading does lowering the strength to 90 do to the overall FFB? Do you notice any difference?
@HxR-eSports Yes, that is true. It’s 8-9 months old. It could be that they improved it, but I have no idea. It’s not a huge difference but it is there.
ive got the r9 v2 with srp loadcell pedals that came with these sticky gel pads to go under pedals for floor mount but i dident use them so i cut 4 corners of them and put them on bottom of a pc fan and it sits rite on top of my r9 wired straight into pc power supply. it never moves and no vibration because its gel stuff. ive never had a problem with losing force feedback but did notice it gets a bit hot sometimes and had this stuff lying around so just did it anyway. i would share pics if wanted
Sure, i will gladly share those pics. What settings are you using? Are FFB and Torque set to 100%? Some people are saying that their base geslts hot but no FFB loss, other are saying that their never get warm and other are experiencing FFB loss, like me.
i run acc at 100% in pithouse and main ingame setting but in car settings are usually no higher than 68% and it runs pretty cool but i dont really do long races. oh whats an easy way to share pics
@@WolfRacing81 You can email them at iuliandoran(at)gmail(.)com.
@@JulianNDL done mate
I have an R5, it's my first DD and I'm very impressed with it. But I'm wanting to exchange for the R9, do you think it's worth it? Is there a big difference in FFB from the r5 to the r9?
It is quite a difference, and I think it is worth upgrading it, but I would rather suggest buying the R12. You have more head room with it, preventing it from overheating.
@@JulianNDLwould the r9 still overheat if its used on 80 percentage ffb in pit house because I’m planning on buying it soon so this would help me a lot
@nabstergaming2859 No. Using it under 95% in Pithouse will work without any overheating problems.
Try adding heatsink cooling fins, i strongly think it might work.
Isn´t the whole wheel base a heatsink?, i think it's more of a "processor working too hard for passive cooling" type of problem
@@havitamin thats equivalent to saying pc case is the the heatsink.
@@JohnDaging yeah, i get what you're saying, but what i'm trying to say is that the wheel components are working way too hard for it's designed cooling, wich is passive, and i would guess that the base being aluminium and all is the whole heat sink, but then again, i don't have a Moza wheel base
Actually the case for most of the DD wheels is also the heatsink. It was designed to conduct and dissipate heat from the electric motor and electric components and keep them cool. That’s also the case for the R9, but, in my opinion, the form factor of the R9 is way too small, hence all the overheating problems. In comparison, the GT DD Pro is way bigger, it has a bigger case/heat sink, and it does not have the overheating problems of the R9
It looks as the r9 V2 has a built in fan system🤔
Only if you add it. Lol. No, the R9 v2, which I have, does not have a built if fan system.
@@JulianNDL ait ait..how's the temp on it tho??🤔
@aleksandergjengst782 After the last firmware updates it is better. It still overheats, but not as easy as before.
Sempre ouvi alguns comentários a respeito do aquecimento do R9 mas não dei muita importância a isso e comprei, no primeiro dia de testes usando o padrão GT atingiu temperatura alta reduzindo drasticamente o ffb de uma forma ridícula. parece brincadeira que tenham projetado algo tão ruim, penso que a Moza em respeito aos clientes deveria providenciar gratuitamente um dispositivo para diminuir as temperaturas. eu estou muito decepcionado, sinto que joguei muito dinheiro no lixo.
i am looking to get a R5 but these heating issues seem to happen on the R5 also , have you had any troubles after turning down some of the settings ?
There's nothing to worry about overheating. I mean, it's important to know that they might and will overheat but can be easily solved with an external fan. From my experience, if you go down to 90% ffb and torque, no, they will not overheat anymore.
@@JulianNDL awesome thank you ,seems a couple videos have the same opinion , dont crank the wheel to silly levels 😄
@ricardoa1661, it's not silly levels, and it should not overheat, in my opinion. That is why I compared the R5 or the R9 with the GT DD Pro, which will never heat, no matter what FFB settings i'm using, but again, nothing that can't be solved with one or two cheap usb fans, or yea, lowering the FFB. That is why I recommend getting a more powerful wheelbase to have some headroom with FFB. For example, that is why I bought the Asetek La Prima. It has 12 nm, but with the upgrade kit from Asetek, it can go up to 18nm, so even if I use it all the time at 12nm, the motor will never work at 100% of its capacity, and it never overheats.
@@JulianNDL saying the csl never overheats is a lie. Cause there are many reddit threads saying the opposite. These things do overheat and there could be many reason.
@ClipofTheDayy I've said my GT DD Pro never overheats, and it's a fact for me and for my wheel base, fact proven, no matter what settings i've used. I can't talk about other's people wheel bases! Everything I say on my channel is based just on my experience with gear bought out of my pocket.
On a second note, there are bad copies of every electrical and electronical component out there, so I can't argue with you that other people may and have problems with their wheelbase. In fact, also on the channel, a lot of people complained about having problems with their Fanatec wheelbases.
My R5 just started heating up randomly causing the wheelbase to crash
Try contacting the supplier where you bought it from. This sounds like a warranty problem.
so after all this testing, did you feel that changing settings in pit house did the job of keeping the base cool enough so you don’t have to have the fans? because thats the message you get from the guys in the support discord channel that its all about the settings to keep it from loosing ffb and its not a fault on the R9 base😅
Yes pathetic service and guys in moza discord.This wheel base overheating with the settings they promote and feels excellent for the first 10 minutes 😀, after that we have torque cuts like its 3kn.Those settings without damper, friction to zero as they suggest if nothing
@@GreekSIMRACING yes i mean its like they will not admit at all that some bases have a fault! but i think that if you can’t run you’re base with everything at a 100% then theres something wrong i feel like in my opinion 🙈
@@stianvennesla they insist that their wheel base run cool and smooth.I have seen my temp logs from error reports.Wheel base have 3 sensor spots controlles,mos, motor they go from 34c to 65c in just 15 mins with this passive cooling.According to radial even at 60c we have FFB cuts and this situation is with settings they suggest 'not aggressive no friction, damping etc with 100 gain on pithouse and 75% on ACC.If i blast all settings wheel base goes in safe mode
@@GreekSIMRACING i think that they should address this problem and start to work out a solution on maby active cooling on the bases or have a different design on the base itself. or perhabs this problem can be solved tru a software solution even maby🤷♂️ but i think they regardless need to do something to be fair!
Yes, it can be done, as long as FFB intensity and torque are under 90%. If you set them to 100, it will easily jump over 50 degrees Celsius, no matter what other settings you are using. This is at least the case with my R9 V2 unit.
Where did you put the two fans in the end? Both at the back?
Yes, I ended up mounting them in the back of the wheel base, each on a side of the wheelbase. I did this because I had really bad fans that were causing interferences in my monitor, but usually, people are mounting them directly on the sides of the wheelbase.
@@JulianNDL Thanks! I am thinking of getting two PC case fans and mounting them similar to how they are mounted on CPU heatsink i.e. super close. Not sure how to keep them snug and close. Might just get a couple of strong elastic bands?
Yes, two is better. I tried using one, and it was not enough. Actually, I have put on the community of the channel a 3d print file for printing a mount for the R9, if you have access to a 3d printer.
@@JulianNDL Thanks! I do have access. I have a R12 but I think the side profiles are similar? Depends on how you are attaching the mount I guess
My pleasure, man. I guess they're similar, so I think it'll work.
I think ur problem is that wheel angle my guy
Right? :))
you need to screw the aluminum heat sink through the thermal paste)
Can you be, please, a little bit more specific because I don't think i can follow you.
0:20 That sim rig is really good :)
Thank you! 😊
There is no problem in reaching those temperatures. Also with the fans you are lowering the temperature mainly on the surface. Inside the engine you should be getting only a couple of degrees less.
Exactly, you are right! That's the outside temperature. The inside temp, the actual temp of the electric motor is way higher.
Well, as long as it cuts or limits FFB power, it is a problem that it reaches those temps. Also, again, when comparing it to the GT DD Pro, that thing runs at least 20 degrees Celsius lower. Also, I have to disagree with you regarding the fans. It's case acts or should act at least as a heat sink which disipates the heat and cools down the motor, so as long as it stays as cool as possible, it disipates more and faster temperature from the electric motor.
@@JulianNDL I really think that without fans the internal temperature is not much higher than the outside temperature since it rises very slowly from the inside where the heat is generated, to the outside. After a few minutes where the external temperature stops increasing, it can be considered that the internal temperature is equal to the external temperature. But when you use the fans you are cooling the surface of the case and that does not affect the internal temperature of the engine too much. But I insist. There is no problem that an engine of this type is working at those temperatures that would be around 60° in a hot environment.
@arielcor7392 It does, because, I repeat myself, the case acts as a cooling device for the electric motor, being passive cooled. And as long as the cooling device is cool, the electric motor has a lower temperature thanks to the heatsink that disipates the temperature faster and better. It's thermodynamics. Also, it doesn't matter how fast or slow the temp is rising. It matters on those peaks of temperature how fast and proper the heatsink can get rid of the temp, so that the electric motor can properly work. Again, like I also told other people, it's not just about the electric motor. It's about all the internal electrical components of the wheel base that need a lower temp to properly work.
@arielcor7392 To make a paralel, it's like the intercooler of a car. The actual fan of the intercooler cools down the liquid that cools down the engine. Again, it's thermodynamics and heat transfer. Well, in my case, the fans act like the fan of the intercooler, and the heatsink acts like the liquid that cools down the engine.
@@JulianNDL I fully understand the process. For this reason I insist that the 10 degrees that you are decreasing on the surface have almost no effect on the temperature of the motor windings, which is where the heat is generated because that is where the electric current that generates the magnetic field circulates. And for this reason it is irrelevant that the external temperature reaches 60 degrees, which is the temperature at which the windings are internally. It is true that there is a temperature gradient but it is very small. It is considered that the external temperature is practically equal to the internal temperature in passive cooling.
you
really don't know basic things on electronics
Dude, stop being a smart ass, please.
And to respond to your nonsense comment, yeah, you’re right. I just read the manuals, off all the wheelbases I own, and the first thing written in all of them is that you can’t own or use any of them without basic electronics knowledge, without basic thermodynamics knowledge, without basic rocket science knowledge, without basic materials properties knowledge and so on. Heck, just to be sure, before owning any wheelbase you need to have a PhD in all these domains. 🤦
setting FFB to 90% will clip, most you can do is 60% if you dont want clipping.
I beg your pardon? Depending on the Pithouse settings, you can go up to 95-96% ingame FFB without clipping! Do you see any clipping in any of my videos? No, there is no clipping!
And to be more precise, i'm talking about 100% FFB and Torque in Pithouse.
@@JulianNDL yeah , the pithouse ffb can be maxed but the in game ffb needs to be around 60-70% to avoid most clippings
@KnowerofThings I totally disagree with you, and also, it makes no sense. I don't know what wheel base you have, but for me, that was never the case with all the wheel bases i owned or i still own.
@@JulianNDL hmm it is standard to set wheel base to 100%ffb from the wheel software and limit the ffb in game to avoid clipping not the other way around.
Alright very interesting video again! Thank you for making these!
I use the set up from SimRacingSetups on F1 22 from this video: ua-cam.com/video/PcV0DFH6gjE/v-deo.html
I used his settings on F1 22 too and I really liked them so went for his settings again for F1 23 and really love them again.
Thank you, too, for watching and commenting on my videos. I didn't play F1 that much lately, and I still have to buy F1 23, but for sure, I'll do it. Thank you for sharing the link with the settings. I'll give them a try.
@@JulianNDL you'r welcome!
mine overheats and tzhrottles itself to almost what it feels like 1Nm ... Moza is a grabage company f them.
Have you tried contacting Moza? Did you buy yours directly from Moza or from a reseller? Also, try resetting the wheelbase and install a fresh new firmare. Actually with the latest firmware mine works much better than before.
you shouldn't have to do that buddy ;)
What do you mean? Do what? :D
@@JulianNDL I think he means use the fans. In my case since I have a box surrounding mine I really did need to do something. The box actually helps with cooling as it routes the air around the R5. It looks cheesy, but it lets me have the monitor up as close as possible. I fingers barely miss the stand 😁
@@jimbonater Would you like to send me some pics to share them on the community tab? :D