Another very informative video! I do like the idea of using 10mm for skrimish games. It's cheaper but also looks nice and the terrain is way easier to make or print and painting isn't such a chore.
Been looking at doing this for Sharp Practice. Stuck on the Peninsula War or Civil War, but the cost was keeping me from doing it. But you have shown that this is a cheaper option. So thank you on that, might have to buy one of the other rule sets now.
I love 10mm but I prefer skirmish in 15mm (or on rare occasion 28mm). I also don't consider any multi-model bases to be skirmish level - skirmish, for me is about single models on a base. But, everyone should game how they want to game - that's the only rule that matters.
I use 10mm for mass battles and small skirmish battles, all my models are individually based. That way you can stick them onto trays and have units of dozens of models and dozens of units. Or take them out and move them around as individual models doing more story based games. Size Matters!
I agree, but there's still decent gaps in 3d printing high quality, smaller scale historicals. March to Hell has an ancients and ww2 line, but no naps. Cromarty Forge also has a great line of ancients. And there will always be people who just don't want to 3D print, so I wanted to highlight a physical producer and show how inexpensive it can still be.
@@FeldgrauProductions i say that because there is high price increase in metal. many metal casting companies is having problems because of that and even Privateer press is now 3dprinting instead of metal casting.
You are right 10mm is the new 28mm. im down sizing my DnD games to 10mm. first off i can afford things lol 2nd their easier to paint 3rd a dragon is able to perform manovers and ranges can now max out.
If you email Leon, he will do bespoke armies for you where you can choose which figures you want. So no extras
Another very informative video! I do like the idea of using 10mm for skrimish games. It's cheaper but also looks nice and the terrain is way easier to make or print and painting isn't such a chore.
Glad I’m not the only one who uses a spreadsheet to plan a project with number of figures, manufacturer’s code number of packs needed and cost!
I still use pen and paper lol :)
Been looking at doing this for Sharp Practice. Stuck on the Peninsula War or Civil War, but the cost was keeping me from doing it. But you have shown that this is a cheaper option. So thank you on that, might have to buy one of the other rule sets now.
I love 10mm but I prefer skirmish in 15mm (or on rare occasion 28mm). I also don't consider any multi-model bases to be skirmish level - skirmish, for me is about single models on a base. But, everyone should game how they want to game - that's the only rule that matters.
Super helpful, might try out a smaller scale Bolt Action using this, greatly appreciate the video!
I use 10mm for mass battles and small skirmish battles, all my models are individually based.
That way you can stick them onto trays and have units of dozens of models and dozens of units.
Or take them out and move them around as individual models doing more story based games.
Size Matters!
As I’m looking at trying this, what size bases do you use to individual base them?
@@supertrooper8286 I keep replying but it keeps vanishing?
10mm x 10mm
@@michaelstockin1636 thank you
How do you represent units in buildings at this scale?
this idea works even better with 3d printing. IMO. i think 15mm is the best. models are a little bigger. but still in a affordable way
I agree, but there's still decent gaps in 3d printing high quality, smaller scale historicals. March to Hell has an ancients and ww2 line, but no naps. Cromarty Forge also has a great line of ancients. And there will always be people who just don't want to 3D print, so I wanted to highlight a physical producer and show how inexpensive it can still be.
@@FeldgrauProductions i say that because there is high price increase in metal. many metal casting companies is having problems because of that and even Privateer press is now 3dprinting instead of metal casting.
What would be the French units you would get to fight Sharpe?
I'm not an expert in Napoleonic warfare but I assume a French light company. Pendraken also has great French sculpts.
@@FeldgrauProductions Ahh, I was just curious how you would build the French light company to fight against the British
You are right 10mm is the new 28mm. im down sizing my DnD games to 10mm. first off i can afford things lol 2nd their easier to paint 3rd a dragon is able to perform manovers and ranges can now max out.