I used 3 quarts of 75% vinegar and used water to fill. Two days and the liner was gone, but I wasn't fast enough and got rust flash. Poured 1/2 gallon of POR15 , two smaller chains, shook it up and down, poured it out - rust gone. Then poured some gas in it, shook it removed most of the gas and it was beautiful. That POR15 is awesome stuff and at 69 years old, I wanted easy on this RD400 tank. Stuff really works. Great video!
Lawnmower Lady wraps tanks in cardboard, after filling it with gasoline and nuts, bolts, chain links, pretty much anything, and sealing it all up. And then puts it in her dryer! (on air fluff, and surrounded by thick material like blankets and stuff). I had never thought of it.
Sounds good to me Johnnie, not sure my wife would go for using the dryer that way. I'm just sure I would hear her say, why do my cloths smell like gasoline.
The trick I discovered to using acid is as soon as you drain it out, fill the tank with a mixture of baking soda and water and shake it around for alittle while. The baking soda neutralize the acid and prevents the flash rust. But that being said, I've found these new products such as metal rescue, rust911 and others to be a much better solution to a rusty tank. That acid can be nasty stuff to deal with.
Yes, I have heard of doing that, I understand that folks are trying to save money by using the cheaper products, but how much do you really save if you have to do other steps and with other products. I know the Metal rescue is expensive, but it is a one step process and works great. I agree, acid is nasty, I can never remember if you pour acid into water or the other way around. I just don't use it. Thanks for the comment and for watching I sure appreciate it.
Great video dale! Thanks for pointer to, "count the screws" (should put that on a T-shirt) and for the for the info. on how you handle the after de-rust process. I have used vinegar in the past which is probably why I get the etching and flash rust. I will probably try the metal rescue on my next project and see how it works in my mid-west neck of the woods.
Thanks Chris, yep, ask me why I count them. I am sure you know. Hey, my friend Dean over at Retromeccainca says after using an acid solution, he will rinse with Denatured alcohol, this makes good since to me. Since we use that to dry out fuel lines and tanks on cars and other equipment. I think you will be happy with Metal Rescue though.
Thanks Peter, yes my Beezer shirt, given to me by one of my viewers is a fav of mine. I like to wear it in support of my friend Deans channel, Retromeccanica over in the UK.
another tip ive seen is after getting it nice and stripped, then stick a heat gun in the gas inlet on low with the petcock open for 15-30 minutes. use your beet judgment since all heat guns are different.
Great job Dale. As you know, I'm a proponent of citric acid. I chase it out with Methylated Spirit (denatured alcohol in the US?) and I don't get flash rust. I think that getting rid of the water content is the key. If I was leaving it without fuel for a while, I'd use a light oil as you suggested. I haven't seen Metal Rescue for sale here in the UK. I'd certainly give it a try if it were. Your recommendation is good enough for me. Evaporust is available but I'm not keen. Great choice of tee shirt too! Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, that is a good tip on the Denatured alcohol, it didn't occur to me until you mentioned it. We use that to dry out fuel tanks and fuel lines here in the winter. Just put a pint in your tank and it does the work for you. Thanks Dean. I agree with you, not a fan of Evaporust. I knew you would appreciate Cains shirt; I believe you have one too, Cain is a bud and very generous person.
Strip your tank and if worried about flash rusting, simply wash out your tank and then swill some diesel round it. It won’t flash at all for prolonged periods and it’s not enough to alter your fuel going to the carbs. Simple and cheap. All you need to do is stop the oxygen getting to the metal to stop oxidising of the steel. As it’s oil based, diesel is perfect for the job.
Use metal rescue metal bath Then Use Hold tight 102 to completely stop flash rust (for 72 hours ) while you fill the tank with gas Hold tight won’t leave any residue behind
Hey Dale! absolutely love your videos. I have a question, after the pouring out all the rust remover do i need to rinse the tank with anything before putting gas back inside? or can i pour gas inside once the rust remover has dried up? thanks again. ps just bought an old 1969 yamaha enduro 250 and your videos helped with my rebuild journey!
If you use Metal Rescue you don't have to rinse with anything, Metal Rescue is not an acid, so it does not flash rust, but you can pour in some denatured alcohol that will remove any leftover water and the pour it out. That will prevent flash rust also. Sure, glad you are getting some good info from the videos, thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
Hey Dale, great result with the metal rescue, I will be using this product for the first time on a 1977 YZ80 we just picked up. So, no need to treat the bare metal after it’s been de-rusted? Cheers Dan
Hi Dan, I have had really good luck with it. But like I said, I live in a low humidity area. I would say if you have any problems one of my viewers says to pour it out and put in some denatured alcohol and swish that around and pour that out, it should remove any moisture. Sounds good to me, since we use it to remove water from fuel in our car tanks in the winter. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
I wonder if you use cheap white vinegar to remove the nasty rust. Then 2 days of the metal rescue for the flash and deeper rust. Might save the expensive stuff from being used up fast
I just used a rubber cap and a twist of wire to block off the holes. On other models I have plates that I have made and make a gasket and attach with the existing hardware.
Dale, do you leave the gas cap on the tank after you put in the metal rescue? or will putting the gas cap on hold the gases and cause a possible explosion?
Thanks , I'm re doing a tank for a kawasaki mt1A. I purchased the tank on line and it has a liner that is flaking off. Good tips. Thanks again. Do you know if tank liners are prone to flake over time or is it because it sat empty so long ? Coated over rust ? The outer appearance doesn't seem to indicate any signs of rust. Would a liner seal any pin holes with out soldering Any info would be appreciated.
Hi Fred, yes lots of the early tank liners were prone to failure. Prep is the key to success with liners. I would just fill it with acetone and let it eat out the old liner, then throw a hand full of dry wall screws and soap and water and shake to remove as much of the rust as possible. Then put in some metal rescue or some similar product to finish up the rust removal. Pour that out and put in a pint of denatured alcohol, shake around this will prevent flash rust. Then recoat your tank, the best product I have found is Caswell epoxy liner. Yes, smaller holes will be sealed but larger ones you may have to place some tape over until it is hardened, or better yet solder or repair them somehow. Good luck my friend and thanks for watching.
Hey Mark, oh my everyone wants to know my secret. No not really...I just use my 300-watt soldering Iron, some Regular paste flux, and some rosin core solder. Just sand the area well and apply the flux and solder it. Works great. I did it to repair a hole in the F7 oil tank also. You do need a big soldering iron though for quick heat.
I used 3 quarts of 75% vinegar and used water to fill. Two days and the liner was gone, but I wasn't fast enough and got rust flash. Poured 1/2 gallon of POR15 , two smaller chains, shook it up and down, poured it out - rust gone. Then poured some gas in it, shook it removed most of the gas and it was beautiful. That POR15 is awesome stuff and at 69 years old, I wanted easy on this RD400 tank. Stuff really works. Great video!
Awesome Richard thanks for sharing your concoction.
Lawnmower Lady wraps tanks in cardboard, after filling it with gasoline and nuts, bolts, chain links, pretty much anything, and sealing it all up. And then puts it in her dryer! (on air fluff, and surrounded by thick material like blankets and stuff). I had never thought of it.
Sounds good to me Johnnie, not sure my wife would go for using the dryer that way. I'm just sure I would hear her say, why do my cloths smell like gasoline.
The trick I discovered to using acid is as soon as you drain it out, fill the tank with a mixture of baking soda and water and shake it around for alittle while. The baking soda neutralize the acid and prevents the flash rust. But that being said, I've found these new products such as metal rescue, rust911 and others to be a much better solution to a rusty tank. That acid can be nasty stuff to deal with.
Yes, I have heard of doing that, I understand that folks are trying to save money by using the cheaper products, but how much do you really save if you have to do other steps and with other products. I know the Metal rescue is expensive, but it is a one step process and works great. I agree, acid is nasty, I can never remember if you pour acid into water or the other way around. I just don't use it. Thanks for the comment and for watching I sure appreciate it.
Great video dale! Thanks for pointer to, "count the screws" (should put that on a T-shirt) and for the for the info. on how you handle the after de-rust process. I have used vinegar in the past which is probably why I get the etching and flash rust. I will probably try the metal rescue on my next project and see how it works in my mid-west neck of the woods.
Thanks Chris, yep, ask me why I count them. I am sure you know. Hey, my friend Dean over at Retromeccainca says after using an acid solution, he will rinse with Denatured alcohol, this makes good since to me. Since we use that to dry out fuel lines and tanks on cars and other equipment. I think you will be happy with Metal Rescue though.
Nice job Dale. Particularly like the Beezer T-shirt!
Cheers, Peter.
Thanks Peter, yes my Beezer shirt, given to me by one of my viewers is a fav of mine. I like to wear it in support of my friend Deans channel, Retromeccanica over in the UK.
@@montana2strokeracer Yes, Dale, I follow Dean. I really enjoy his channel too.
another tip ive seen is after getting it nice and stripped, then stick a heat gun in the gas inlet on low with the petcock open for 15-30 minutes. use your beet judgment since all heat guns are different.
Great job Dale. As you know, I'm a proponent of citric acid. I chase it out with Methylated Spirit (denatured alcohol in the US?) and I don't get flash rust. I think that getting rid of the water content is the key. If I was leaving it without fuel for a while, I'd use a light oil as you suggested. I haven't seen Metal Rescue for sale here in the UK. I'd certainly give it a try if it were. Your recommendation is good enough for me. Evaporust is available but I'm not keen.
Great choice of tee shirt too!
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, that is a good tip on the Denatured alcohol, it didn't occur to me until you mentioned it. We use that to dry out fuel tanks and fuel lines here in the winter. Just put a pint in your tank and it does the work for you. Thanks Dean. I agree with you, not a fan of Evaporust. I knew you would appreciate Cains shirt; I believe you have one too, Cain is a bud and very generous person.
i use Sta-Bil fogging oil in tanks to prevent flash rust for long tern storage.
Yes sir, use it in my classic cars, good stuff.
Strip your tank and if worried about flash rusting, simply wash out your tank and then swill some diesel round it. It won’t flash at all for prolonged periods and it’s not enough to alter your fuel going to the carbs. Simple and cheap. All you need to do is stop the oxygen getting to the metal to stop oxidising of the steel. As it’s oil based, diesel is perfect for the job.
Good tip my friend!
Thanks Dale, very informative 👍
Thank you, appreciate your kind words.
evaporust works great for rust removal
Nice little job well done there
Thanks for the kind words my friend.
1st looking forward to learning from you Dale.
Thanks Mark, sure appreciate you being here.
Use metal rescue metal bath
Then
Use Hold tight 102 to completely stop flash rust (for 72 hours ) while you fill the tank with gas
Hold tight won’t leave any residue behind
More excellent content Dale. Thanks for the information, we appreciate you!
Thanks Jeff, sure appreciate your support of the channel.
Hey Dale! absolutely love your videos. I have a question, after the pouring out all the rust remover do i need to rinse the tank with anything before putting gas back inside? or can i pour gas inside once the rust remover has dried up? thanks again. ps just bought an old 1969 yamaha enduro 250 and your videos helped with my rebuild journey!
If you use Metal Rescue you don't have to rinse with anything, Metal Rescue is not an acid, so it does not flash rust, but you can pour in some denatured alcohol that will remove any leftover water and the pour it out. That will prevent flash rust also. Sure, glad you are getting some good info from the videos, thanks for spending time in the shop with me.
Hey Dale, great result with the metal rescue, I will be using this product for the first time on a 1977 YZ80 we just picked up. So, no need to treat the bare metal after it’s been de-rusted? Cheers
Dan
Hi Dan, I have had really good luck with it. But like I said, I live in a low humidity area. I would say if you have any problems one of my viewers says to pour it out and put in some denatured alcohol and swish that around and pour that out, it should remove any moisture. Sounds good to me, since we use it to remove water from fuel in our car tanks in the winter. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
I wonder if you use cheap white vinegar to remove the nasty rust. Then 2 days of the metal rescue for the flash and deeper rust. Might save the expensive stuff from being used up fast
Thats a great idea Matt. I am sure that will make that stuff last a lot longer. Good tip bud.
We got something in common Dale I also live in the high Desert of so calif in oak hills on the way to Vegas.
Well, another high deserter, is that a word? It does have its benefits. In the winter....no benefits here. Montana....cold.
What did you use to block the holes in the bottom? Like where the pet cocktail is usually installed.
I just used a rubber cap and a twist of wire to block off the holes. On other models I have plates that I have made and make a gasket and attach with the existing hardware.
Once the rust is removed and the cleaner is neutralized ... is it worth reinstalling a liner coating?
I don't like liners at all, if it cleans up good and doesn't leak, leave it alone. Thats my policy.
Dale,
do you leave the gas cap on the tank after you put in the metal rescue? or will putting the gas cap on hold the gases and cause a possible explosion?
No, I do not, leave it open and prop up so you can fill all the way to the top.
Thanks , I'm re doing a tank for a kawasaki mt1A. I purchased the tank on line and it has a liner that is flaking off. Good tips. Thanks again. Do you know if tank liners are prone to flake over time or is it because it sat empty so long ? Coated over rust ? The outer appearance doesn't seem to indicate any signs of rust. Would a liner seal any pin holes with out soldering Any info would be appreciated.
Hi Fred, yes lots of the early tank liners were prone to failure. Prep is the key to success with liners. I would just fill it with acetone and let it eat out the old liner, then throw a hand full of dry wall screws and soap and water and shake to remove as much of the rust as possible. Then put in some metal rescue or some similar product to finish up the rust removal. Pour that out and put in a pint of denatured alcohol, shake around this will prevent flash rust. Then recoat your tank, the best product I have found is Caswell epoxy liner. Yes, smaller holes will be sealed but larger ones you may have to place some tape over until it is hardened, or better yet solder or repair them somehow. Good luck my friend and thanks for watching.
Have you tried the Caswell Epoxy liner yet Dale?
I have, it's the only liner I use.
im a loyal guy, always here!
I know that, some of us were just raised right.
great job dale can i ask what solder you used on tank to fill the hole and how u applied it thanks mark
Hey Mark, oh my everyone wants to know my secret. No not really...I just use my 300-watt soldering Iron, some Regular paste flux, and some rosin core solder. Just sand the area well and apply the flux and solder it. Works great. I did it to repair a hole in the F7 oil tank also. You do need a big soldering iron though for quick heat.
Do you have a video to repair rusty seat pans
Yes, several, here is one.
ua-cam.com/video/sQuOFltPThE/v-deo.html
What liner would you use if you had to put one in the tank?
I prefer not to, but when I do, it's the Caswell liner that I use.
It’s 98 percent humidity here today.
Wow, man you make sure you keep all that stuff down there.
Nice shirt.
One of my viewers gave it to me. Oh, that would be you. Thanks again bud.
Here
Finally, been waiting.