Thanks for a very easy-to-follow and clear video! HOWEVER- The Peak Gold is the correct antifreeze for Chrysler cars up to & including 2012, it's HOAT antifreeze; but *BE AWARE* Chrysler CHANGED the type of antifreeze in 2013 & onward to OAT antifreeze, and they ARE. NOT. COMPATIBLE! If you put the new OAT into your 2012 or earlier, it reacts with the HOAT left in there and forms a heavy sludge, and this will block up your radiator and heater; this is really, really, really expensive to fix, and may mean you'll need to replace the radiator and heater core, so MAKE SURE you get the right antifreeze for your car's year!
Great video. Using the bleeder screw was the easier way for me to burp air out of the system. Chrysler engineers make it “challenging” to do basic things. Just wait until you have to replace the battery.
Yeah changing mine every few years is nothing but joy 😅. Nah it definitely is a trash spot. But honestly you got other cars where the battery is under the back seats……idk why they do that lol.
@@fsanchez6160 one of our friends has a Chrysler 300. The battery is in the trunk. But at least it’s accessible and you don’t have to remove a tire to replace it.
84000 miles 🙃 I'm at 127318 its a 2011 but I did lyft for a few years...I love this car but how they just designed it sucks 🤣 but I gotta do a flush too thank you helped alot
Thanks for taking the time to film and post this. Getting ready to do my 3.6L V.V.T . Your video really helped me with the "burping" of the air. Heard horror stories of people getting overheating after a coolant flush (only to find out they had air trapped in the system) . Great job and keep the videos coming! 👍🏼
Hi. Great informative video by the way. I have a 2013 Chrysler 200. My car seems to be needing a flush. However my heater doesn’t work at the moment. Would that affect the flush process ? Thank you in advance 🙏🏼
No heat. Check your coolant tank make sure it's filled to the cold position. If you're Antifreeze low add some then check your heat if that doesn't work do this flush video.
Hey thanks for the reply. And well the heat isn’t working due to the hose disconnected. Initially it started to leak inside the driver side so temporarily removed. Been disconnected for a few months. However now it seems like if the car is driven minimum 3-20 miles the water gets hot and starts to bubble, but the temperature isn’t going to hot stays in the middle. So I’m assuming the flush will help remove any air bubbles potentially causing the sensor to read wrong.
@kingchris447 Stop using HOAT antifreeze. Chrysler switched to OAT after 2012 due to sludging and gelling. Flush system out with prestone radiator cleaner flush and use only OAT antifreeze. Install a antifreeze coolant filter and never have to drop your dash and or replace your heater core again. I own a 2012 chrysler 200 and have had the same problems.
Sludge builds up in the reservoir as most shops when doing a coolant service simply do a drain and fill, they drain coolant out, close the pe..t..co..ck on the radiator / re-attach the hose and fill up the system. The problem is they do not rinse out the reservoir so that never really gets cleaned. Also note a cooling system for many vehicles, ( will vary if a truck or has rear Heat/AC, sports cars, etc.) hold 2 gallons of water, when you drain the radiator only 1 gallon drains out, so the gallon put in is cleaner than the old gallon, but you still have contaminated water in the system which will cause corrosion, sludging and start to immediately break down the new coolant. Most vehicles have had coolant changed on schedule, so you need a full flush. And after the first flush if you wanted to use a cleaner, that is OK. But you will need a 3rd full water flush to get out and of the cleaner and additional debris released. To clean the reservoir, with turkey baster (DO NOT take back in the house) or syringe drain, sold a most parts stores, get out a much coolant as possible. Remove hose from reservior, try to catch as much old coolant as possible and dispose of properly. Then rinse out reservoir with a garden hose, and use a spray attachment. You need some pressure in there. Check hose is not deformed, cracked, soft clogged, etc. Replace if needed, O reilys may sell hose by the foot, take old hose in for reference. If needed remove from radiator and run hose through it, see if water passes trough. If coolant reservoir is cracked, or the drain part is melted, deformed, etc, you may need to simply replace it.
I jus had a coolant flush done 6 months ago n now. it acts like it needs again ...dam def doin myself I hate how hard Chrysler makes it to get under ur hood
I have a question I’m a widow and my car won’t start and I notice when I opened my jug to check my fluids when the antifreeze goes it has brown stuff on the sides of the jug thing can you tell me what that means. Thank you
@@rosagothberg9434 the Antifreeze Needs to be Flushed & New Fresh Antifreeze/Coolant needs to be put in the reason why it’s brown. But Car won’t start that’s something else
Connect everything, then open the drain and start filling. When the cola starts to come out, close it and fill it to the correct point. (avoid air in the system)
Thanks for a very easy-to-follow and clear video! HOWEVER-
The Peak Gold is the correct antifreeze for Chrysler cars up to & including 2012, it's HOAT antifreeze; but *BE AWARE* Chrysler CHANGED the type of antifreeze in 2013 & onward to OAT antifreeze, and they ARE. NOT. COMPATIBLE! If you put the new OAT into your 2012 or earlier, it reacts with the HOAT left in there and forms a heavy sludge, and this will block up your radiator and heater; this is really, really, really expensive to fix, and may mean you'll need to replace the radiator and heater core, so MAKE SURE you get the right antifreeze for your car's year!
Great video, nice and detailed. Just got my first Chrysler a few days ago time to change all the fluids.
Great video. Using the bleeder screw was the easier way for me to burp air out of the system. Chrysler engineers make it “challenging” to do basic things. Just wait until you have to replace the battery.
That battery in the wheel well crazy 😆
Yeah changing mine every few years is nothing but joy 😅. Nah it definitely is a trash spot. But honestly you got other cars where the battery is under the back seats……idk why they do that lol.
@@fsanchez6160 one of our friends has a Chrysler 300. The battery is in the trunk. But at least it’s accessible and you don’t have to remove a tire to replace it.
That auto focus, tho...
Needed this for my 200 v6. Prices are high and I’d much rather do this myself. Thanks for the easy steps 🙏🏼
No problem
84000 miles 🙃 I'm at 127318 its a 2011 but I did lyft for a few years...I love this car but how they just designed it sucks 🤣 but I gotta do a flush too thank you helped alot
Yes design weird your car will last very long by changing the coolant people forget then end up having leaks everywhere then engine overheat
Thanks for taking the time to film and post this. Getting ready to do my 3.6L V.V.T . Your video really helped me with the "burping" of the air. Heard horror stories of people getting overheating after a coolant flush (only to find out they had air trapped in the system) . Great job and keep the videos coming! 👍🏼
No problem
Hi. Great informative video by the way. I have a 2013 Chrysler 200. My car seems to be needing a flush. However my heater doesn’t work at the moment. Would that affect the flush process ? Thank you in advance 🙏🏼
No heat. Check your coolant tank make sure it's filled to the cold position. If you're Antifreeze low add some then check your heat if that doesn't work do this flush video.
Hey thanks for the reply. And well the heat isn’t working due to the hose disconnected. Initially it started to leak inside the driver side so temporarily removed. Been disconnected for a few months. However now it seems like if the car is driven minimum 3-20 miles the water gets hot and starts to bubble, but the temperature isn’t going to hot stays in the middle. So I’m assuming the flush will help remove any air bubbles potentially causing the sensor to read wrong.
@lauraangel1689 oh ok you welcome
Great video on changing antifreeze. My 200s has sluge in the resavior. Can u tell me why? Thank you.
Maybe because of the red Coolant
Did you ever figure out why I have a Chrysler 300 with sludge not a lot but it sits at the top of the coolant resivour
@kingchris447 Stop using HOAT antifreeze. Chrysler switched to OAT after 2012 due to sludging and gelling. Flush system out with prestone radiator cleaner flush and use only OAT antifreeze. Install a antifreeze coolant filter and never have to drop your dash and or replace your heater core again. I own a 2012 chrysler 200 and have had the same problems.
Sludge builds up in the reservoir as most shops when doing a coolant service simply do a drain and fill, they drain coolant out, close the pe..t..co..ck on the radiator / re-attach the hose and fill up the system.
The problem is they do not rinse out the reservoir so that never really gets cleaned.
Also note a cooling system for many vehicles, ( will vary if a truck or has rear Heat/AC, sports cars, etc.) hold 2 gallons of water, when you drain the radiator only 1 gallon drains out, so the gallon put in is cleaner than the old gallon, but you still have contaminated water in the system which will cause corrosion, sludging and start to immediately break down the new coolant. Most vehicles have had coolant changed on schedule, so you need a full flush. And after the first flush if you wanted to use a cleaner, that is OK. But you will need a 3rd full water flush to get out and of the cleaner and additional debris released.
To clean the reservoir, with turkey baster (DO NOT take back in the house) or syringe drain, sold a most parts stores, get out a much coolant as possible. Remove hose from reservior, try to catch as much old coolant as possible and dispose of properly. Then rinse out reservoir with a garden hose, and use a spray attachment. You need some pressure in there. Check hose is not deformed, cracked, soft clogged, etc. Replace if needed, O reilys may sell hose by the foot, take old hose in for reference. If needed remove from radiator and run hose through it, see if water passes trough.
If coolant reservoir is cracked, or the drain part is melted, deformed, etc, you may need to simply replace it.
I’ve had that same hose that you’re squeezing fail on me just from idling. 🥶
Thanks for the video brother. Have to do this several times with degreaser my next days off. Ughhh
Your welcome
I jus had a coolant flush done 6 months ago n now. it acts like it needs again ...dam def doin myself I hate how hard Chrysler makes it to get under ur hood
I know what you mean I had to twice
Thank you very much so easy to follow
You sound like Druski
I have a question I’m a widow and my car won’t start and I notice when I opened my jug to check my fluids when the antifreeze goes it has brown stuff on the sides of the jug thing can you tell me what that means. Thank you
@@rosagothberg9434 the Antifreeze Needs to be Flushed & New Fresh Antifreeze/Coolant needs to be put in the reason why it’s brown. But Car won’t start that’s something else
When you add coolant and have car on do you still have first hose off still n letting it leak out ?
Connect everything, then open the drain and start filling. When the cola starts to come out, close it and fill it to the correct point.
(avoid air in the system)
Does anyone know if there is a special method to open the radiator cap in order to refill the reservoir? I can’t seem twist it off.
Change the hose while u at it gonna have to order the hose
I’m sorry but did u say steal water ? 😳😅
Its a figure of speech 🤣
Distilled water. You want to flush with distilled water. No minerals, which are bad for cooling systems.