John Cadogan demonstrated one problem with V2L. That is that a number of devices - including your air conditioner and your refrigerator, devices that you will certainly want to run if there's an extended blackout - impose a surge load (albeit for a few seconds at most) that is much much higher than the constant load. And whilst that is OK if you run off the grid, that may cause you issues with V2L.
I powered all the essentials in my house for 8 days, during a power failure recently, from my MG4, including a fairly hefty water pump, without which we have no water. There were no issues at all. Although the rating is supposed to be 2.2 kW max, the internal inverter can deliver far more; up to nearly 7 kW by one report I've seen. One reason I chose an MG4 was the V2L capability, and it really came through. I should add that I didn't use the official MG adapter.
@@stuartirwin3779 Good to know. I certainly would not have dared to even try 7kW surge on a 2.2kW inverter. The car that John C used was a Kona electric of some kind.
@@starpawsy There's actually a resistor in the cable that tells the car the maximum to output. I put a 470 ohm in mine, (yes, I made up my own cable, but needs must!), which allows for much higher draw than 2.2 kW. The resistor value also tells the car whether the plug is V2L, or connected to a charge cable, and the maximum to charge at through it. I suspect that the car doesn't have a dedicated V2L inverter, but uses one of the motor drive inverters. In that case, even 7 kW would be nothing to it. I'd be happy to be corrected on this.
Would be good to do away with a dongle adapter and plug directly into a type I port in the car. Maybe one day we'll get that, and maybe one day engineers will allow the type I port to also charge the battery, in case the one and only charge port on the car gets damaged and unusable rendering the whole car unusable.
Apparently the Kia EV9 has a regular power outlet (type 1) in the boot - brilliant! Though I think it's only V2L and you can't charge the car through it. But the concept of having a second/backup method to charge the car isn't such a bad idea, I'd never thought of that before
Ahh.... unsure, I can't exactly remember and I've returned the cable back to MG now! I'd hope the lights switch off after a while, no point them being on and wasting power.
Apparently fridges can draw a lot of current when they're first plugged in - I didn't try with the cable I had on loan.People say to plug just the first in, let it start up the compressor, then plug any other appliances in
Tom's Man Shed powers his whole shed via his MG4 V2L with a change over switch and a 470k resistor with the cp pin. ua-cam.com/video/gKh1IRCvgD0/v-deo.html
cybertruck works great for V2G, V2L, V2H etc,, and the hardware and installion comes free with it
wonder if there's any chance the older/existing Model 3/Y will get that feature? And would be nice if the cybertruk ever came to Australia officially!
I don't think your kettle would use 1.5 kwh, it might draw 1.5 kw but won't take an hour to boil
yes correct - for the few minutes it's actively boiling water, it draws 1.5kW :)
John Cadogan demonstrated one problem with V2L. That is that a number of devices - including your air conditioner and your refrigerator, devices that you will certainly want to run if there's an extended blackout - impose a surge load (albeit for a few seconds at most) that is much much higher than the constant load. And whilst that is OK if you run off the grid, that may cause you issues with V2L.
I powered all the essentials in my house for 8 days, during a power failure recently, from my MG4, including a fairly hefty water pump, without which we have no water. There were no issues at all. Although the rating is supposed to be 2.2 kW max, the internal inverter can deliver far more; up to nearly 7 kW by one report I've seen. One reason I chose an MG4 was the V2L capability, and it really came through. I should add that I didn't use the official MG adapter.
@@stuartirwin3779 Good to know. I certainly would not have dared to even try 7kW surge on a 2.2kW inverter. The car that John C used was a Kona electric of some kind.
@@starpawsy There's actually a resistor in the cable that tells the car the maximum to output. I put a 470 ohm in mine, (yes, I made up my own cable, but needs must!), which allows for much higher draw than 2.2 kW. The resistor value also tells the car whether the plug is V2L, or connected to a charge cable, and the maximum to charge at through it. I suspect that the car doesn't have a dedicated V2L inverter, but uses one of the motor drive inverters. In that case, even 7 kW would be nothing to it. I'd be happy to be corrected on this.
Would be good to do away with a dongle adapter and plug directly into a type I port in the car. Maybe one day we'll get that, and maybe one day engineers will allow the type I port to also charge the battery, in case the one and only charge port on the car gets damaged and unusable rendering the whole car unusable.
Apparently the Kia EV9 has a regular power outlet (type 1) in the boot - brilliant! Though I think it's only V2L and you can't charge the car through it. But the concept of having a second/backup method to charge the car isn't such a bad idea, I'd never thought of that before
I see that the lights are on do they switch off with V2L?
Ahh.... unsure, I can't exactly remember and I've returned the cable back to MG now! I'd hope the lights switch off after a while, no point them being on and wasting power.
How about 3 fridge ? Asking a got flooded a few times
Apparently fridges can draw a lot of current when they're first plugged in - I didn't try with the cable I had on loan.People say to plug just the first in, let it start up the compressor, then plug any other appliances in
Tom's Man Shed powers his whole shed via his MG4 V2L with a change over switch and a 470k resistor with the cp pin. ua-cam.com/video/gKh1IRCvgD0/v-deo.html
Pretty clever bit of work done in that video!