How to Take Better Polaroids
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- Опубліковано 21 тра 2022
- Here are my top five tips for taking better Polaroid photos. Because of the limited dynamic range and the lack of control, shooting Polaroid film can feel like a game of chance when you're trying to create better images. Use the tips in this video to start taking better and sharper Polaroid images every time.
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I disagree, using flash all the time is a waste of the films capability, however if you do enjoy that flash look go ahead.
I agree that there are cases where the flash isn't the best - but when you're starting out and looking to take better photos, the flash is one of the key ways to take better photos. Most people will struggle with the extremely limited dynamic range at the beginning. And flash solves that problem by ensuring the subject you are focusing on is always well lit (unless it's a landscape). That's why I put it like that in the video. Because you will capture way more keepers (especially when photographing friends and family) using flash than without.
I really don't like using the flash on Polaroid. It tends to bathe everything but the subject in a sea of darkness, and ruins everything other than the subject. I very rarely use the flash because I usually don't want this look. However, I can understand why it's so often recommended. Novice film photographers who are used to super-sensitive digital sensors will probably vastly underestimate how much light these systems need. And they probably can't stay still for a long exposure either. I think flash makes sense for new shooters, but for me I strongly prefer the look I get from longer exposures and no flash.
@@chzcake44s I have managed to compensate that on a few occasions using a slave Flash to illuminate the background when using an electric flash mounted to the top of the folding sx-70 indoors. I found later plastic 600 cameras with the built-in flash tend to balance out the subject in the background a little bit better in Flash pictures. Most of the time I like to shoot without Flash. Some clarity is lost through the plastic lens on the box cameras but it's still usable image.
Those were some of the most beautiful photos on polaroid i've seen on youtube ✨✨
Thank you, Nishant!
Came to the wrong video but learned way more than I did before, thank you!
Glad to hear it!
This is pretty helpful; I found an old Instax mini 7s (so basically a Polaroid 300) at goodwill for like $10 and took it with me camping. Got some nice shots but I wish I'd seen this video before :D
Glad to hear it'll be helpful! Hope there were still some awesome shots out there - the memories always matter more than the images.
we can not clean the roller of Instax (mini evo) cameras right?
just found this channel, many thanks as so many of mine have gone in the bin, i feel inspired again!
I used to have a very low keeper rate as well! Probably would only get 1 or 2 images from some packs of film, so I know that pain very well.
i love ur vibe u seem like the cool art teacher everyone wants to be friends with
Thanks for this great video! really good tips, simple and useful.
Greetings from Spain
Glad you found them useful!
Thank you so much for the tips! This might be a weird compliment/piece of feedback, but I really appreciate your speaking pace. I’m new at photography and a lot of these terms are foreign to me. You didn’t speak too fast (many UA-camrs do this), so I felt like I was able to really listen and understand better. Thank you 😁
Thank you for the tips!
Also, MORE POLAROID VIDEOS!!!
Glad you're finding them useful! There are a couple more Polaroid videos in the works now!
Great vídeo and great tips! Thanks a lot from Spain 😊
Glad it was helpful, Maria!
Outmoded Fahrenheit scale for life!
Hi! nice video. I have one question: Do I have to move the exposure compensation wheel in my SX-70 to the white light side when I use the mint flash in daylight (sunny or gray sky)??? I tried the mint flash outdoors the other day with a gray sky and behind my object, everything went dark and made it appear that it was late or almost night. Do you have some advice on the mint flash outdoors on a sunny day (SX-70 film) Thank you!!
Yes! So that sounds like you were shooting into the distance. The flash can only reach about 3-4 meters before the light falls off and you're going to underexpose the image, since the flash forces the shutter speed to use 1/125th (which may underexpose the background in darker scenarios). So if it's a landscape photo in the distance, you won't really be able to use the flash to get a good exposure there - instead you'll need to have the camera on a tripod, or on a hard, stable surface to get a sharp image since the shutter speed will be so slow.
Thanks! This really helped!
Glad to hear it! Hope it saved you some money and frustration!
Hello! Wonderful video thanks! Can I please ask a question? When you discuss the differnce between the two photos with the alternate exposures ( the clouds vs the binoculars) how did you shift the choice of exposure between the two photos? Did you add the "-/+" exposure compensation, and if so, which did you use for which image? I really appreciate it!
This one was actually accidental! The problem is that I was fairly close to those binoculars, so in one of the images, I was pointing a little further up and the Polaroid exposure meter was pointing towards the clouds, and on the next one, I was pointing a little lower and the camera captured the exposure info from the binoculars itself. When you're just using automatic settings and not adjusting the exposure compensation it can be really tough to know where the camera is exposing. If you're focusing in the distance, this is no problem whatsoever, but when you're up close, that's where you can run into some problems due to parallax error.
@@LearnFilmPhotography instead of using the flash on a Polaroid by not just use simple lighting like flashlights when doing close-ups of still lives
@Yusuf Eckholm this is a tough one - you can definitely do that, but the problem is if you're using a regular Polaroid SX-70 or another instant camera that doesn't allow manual exposure, you won't know exactly what the camera is choosing to expose for. If the subject that you're lighting up is small, then there's a good chance it'll become overexposed.
When he showed the picture I said “ damn” that’s perfect
Great video and great tips ! I have a polaroid closeup and I find my film always leans towards the blue/purple tones, no matter where i’ve shot it and in which lighting. Is there any way I can avoid that ? And which camera would you recommend if I wanted to upgrade from my closeup (i find that the focus is wonky half the time)?
Also I never knew the rollers could be dirty, I was wondering why I get weird lines along my polaroids !
Usually if the film is coming out a little blue that's because the film is cold when it develops - but it would have to be under 20°C/68°F to see that. I've also found 600 film can be a little cold in the shadow regions, often looking fairly green/blue. Do you have a link where I could see the photos? That may be an easier way to analyze what's happening.
Thanks
Hi! With the SX-70 the aperture is determined by the focus distance when a flash is inserted so using a flash in exterior would make the background darker right?
Yes, that is true - unless you're photographing in very bright sun that can overpower the flash. The SX-70 is a brilliant camera that way!
Also some of the early SX-70s are not capable of fill Flash. I have experimented using a slave flash function of a cheap speed light from Walmart in an attempt to illuminate the background on indoor flash photos. I've had some success with that.
@@robertknight4672 does this only apply to early SX-70s? As I understand it there is no SX-70 camera that is capable of Fill Flash
@@Adrelanine I think the alpha models have fill Flash. I'd assume the sonar models in the model 3 would also be capable of fill Flash. The box type The box type SX-70 can do fill Flash. You could test for fill flash capability using an empty film pack. Just shine bright light into the cameras light meater and will the flash attached see if the flash real fire.
@@LearnFilmPhotography Top video! In a way, a generation of digital photographers are re-learning the hard truth that film photography is HARD. Like exposure, there's no auto WB and Polaroid's 1:5 contrast range. My SX-70 Autofocus came with a hammerhead electronic flash. You achieve fill-in by placing a loop of tracing paper over the reflector. It has a built-in thyristor on the camera, as well as the magic eye on the exposure wheel. So quite important not to cover the tiny thyristor window with your finger. Unfortunately, the instructions do not explain this, the combined aperture/blade shutter or how connecting the flash affects shutter and aperture settings.
Thank you
Great video. I have the same Mint camera and the flashbar. I'm assuming you've taken all these photos with the flash outdoors and therefore can't use the Mint Time Machine?
Thanks.
I usually default to using flash when taking portraits of people, because then I know I'm going to get a perfect exposure with even lighting. But for landscapes, the flash won't work. In that case, I'm metering the scene and trying to balance out the exposure using a spot meter app on my phone for the area I want to show, with the knowledge that slight underexposure (half stop) is better than overexposure.
how about that light and dark button? when to choos ligt or dark? lets say i taking pic and im in shaddow or object is in shaddow do i need push it light or dark to take visable pic
If you're in a shadow, but part of the image is very bright, then you would want to move that dial over to the light side to overexpose the image slightly. But if your subject is in the shadow, and the rest of the image will also be of that shadowy area (like underneath a stand of trees in a park), then you'll want to keep the dial in the middle since the camera will choose a good exposure.
The primary useage of that dial or button is for complicated lighting scenarios, such as when the sun is behind the subject of your photo - most of the image is very bright, so the Polaroid camera will typically underexpose the subject. Pushing the dial all the way to the light side can help to then get a proper exposure on the subject by overexposing the sky or other objects in the background. But the better solution is to turn around, and have the sun behind you as the photographer so it is evenly illuminating both the subject and the background - that'll make for better exposures overall.
Thank you, your doing God’s work!
No worries! Hope it helps you take some awesome shots!
3:16 Arcadia bay? 👀that's a Max Caulfield shot if I ever saw one!
2:28 Did you use a flash for this one? The colors are stunning, such an unique yellow ✨
Thanks! This photo was taken middle of the day, so no flash was needed for it.
Anyone know where I can get those steel clips they used to make for developing Polaroids? Like you would make them really cold and then throw the picture in that so it’d develop nice
I have never heard of these, but that sounds like an awesome tool to have. I'll look into it - most likely someone will have it listed on eBay. But a lot of them probably just get thrown out if they're passed down.
@@LearnFilmPhotography my polaroid land camera 420 and 430 both came with those "cold clips". You can make your own by getting two thin pieces of metal and tape one side of both together where it can open. 🥺
Thanks for video. What do you mean by "exposing for" the binoculars. Are you saying that you have manually focussed the binoculars in one and the sky in the other? Not sure my Polaroid does this unless you mean changing the aperture?
I just meant that the auto exposure meter had chosen to expose on the binoculars rather than the sky, making the image brighter overall. I think I bent down a little further for the one that exposed for the binoculars, so it was more in the middle of the frame.
@@LearnFilmPhotography brilliant thanks for the reply :)
@@lukezd889 You could try a 1/2 press on the shutter button, which locks your exposure and autofocus on autofocus models. So if you took a "reading" of the sky, then lowered the camera to take the photo, expect correctly exposed sunset. Or with camera pointed at your foreground subject, expect that correctly exposed and blown out sky. Take your pick! Otherwise, try a subject with less contrast. (That's what I would do.)
Hi , great video ! I am just getting started after being gifted a 70s model Polaroid. Can you recommend an upgrade or the best option? Thanks
Awesome! polaroids are so much fun! Which kind of Polaroid is it? Is it one that unfolds into a full camera? If so, that's one of the best Polaroids ever made (SX-70! The One Step cameras are also fantastic and easy to use. If you're new to Polaroid in general, I would look for a Polaroid Sun 600 (which can be expensive) or a Polaroid One Step without the +, as the older versions were much better at reading light than the new ones.
@Learn Film Photography Thank you kindly for responding 🙏 The one I was gifted is a Polaroid one step. I have been delving into as much information as I can. I ordered a few books Polaroid books as well. Just finished up reading "INSTANT The story of Polaroid" it's fascinating! I have taken a few pics & they seem over exposed. I appreciate the recommendations
3:40 hi. how did you manage to make the camera expose the binoculars in the second picture? by using the flash?
In this case it was accidental - likely just by moving the camera up or down a little bit, it exposed more for the binoculars than the background. This is why I prefer to have manual control instead of automatic metering with such sensitive film stocks.
On the manual for my Polaroid 600 Business Edition 2 that came with my camera it says if you are using the close up lens to not use the flash
Makes sense! The old Polaroid SX-70 kits that had a close up lens also came with a diffuser bar that shaded the flash a bit, and likely helped to spread the flash over subjects close up. If you don't use something like that, you'll likely end up with the flash only hitting the top part of the frame or completely overexposing the subject. This is the only circumstance where I don't really recommend using a flash on Polaroid.
That's interesting. A lot of people may come across cameras like that in the thrift store not have a manual and not know that. I have a Polaroid 600 One Step Close up. I bought it new and I haven't looked at the instructions in a while I don't remember if it said anything like that. But I have used the close-up lens with flash on that camera with very good results. I think my camera's one of the last hand was the original Polaroid made. Maybe my models being one of the later ones got a few more refinements.
Are those shutter release buttons still available? I’m not seeing them in the store.
You can still find them on eBay! There are some older ones available, and some people are making new versions as well.
would you recommend keeping the flash on outdoors also?
Yes, I do recommend keeping the flash on if you're taking portraits relatively close up. If not, make sure to make your subject face the light, meaning to have the sun behind you. I don't recommend the flash for landscapes, though.
thanks cuh
Don't Always use the flash. The flash is very tricky. If you have a close subject and the flash bounces off them then the image get overexposed as the light sensor usually sense the low light before.
In broad daylight. It's unnecessary.
Absolutely no way mine are gonna turn out that nice
Do these tips apply to Fujifilm instant films?
Absolutely! Fujifilm is a little better than Polaroid, but still suffers from the limited dynamic range. These tips will definitely help with shooting better Instax images as well.
than\ks
I loved this video but felt so attacked when you mentioned the Fahrenheit thing 😂😂😂😂
Also oh shit you just reminded me to clean my rollers!
What can I say, life is just better in metric.
which polaroid do you recommend? 🤔
Personally, I love the SX-70 camera, especially if it's modified to shoot 600 film. But if you can't get your hands on that one, then the old One Step camera (the one without manual controls through the app) tends to be much more reliable than the newer version. Don't go for the Polaroid Spectra cameras, as Polaroid no longer makes film for it.
My polaroids sometimes look very faded. The saturation is very low. I don't know why. It's not always like this.
How are you storing the film? If your packs are left out at room temperature for a long time they can lose a little bit of that saturation.
You mean to always use flash on the current crop of Polaroid cameras aka the Now and Now+? I have the OneStep+ and Now+, the Bluetooth connected cameras.
Absolutely! The flash should be used on every camera when taking portraits on all Polaroid cameras. The flash really brings out that Polaroid look and makes people look younger. And for SX-70 shooters especially, the flash is essential to creating a perfectly-exposed portrait in almost any light (other than when the sun is behind the photographer).
@@LearnFilmPhotography I stopped using the SX-70 because there's some chipping from the Sonar body. I now shoot with Now+ (pardon the pun). :)
@@LennyWu What do you mean by chipping? I have a Sonar body as well, and absolutely love the camera! And the Now+ is high on my list for new cameras to purchase - it looks insanely good!
@@LearnFilmPhotography Pieces of plastic were chipped off and put duct tape to cover it. I last used it in March with the 600 Duochrome Blue film and got 5/8 shots from it. I also used the Mint Flash. So yeah, I decided to retire the SX-70 camera.
I have a Now+ and my suggestion is to use flash compensation. Now+ is a terrible camera, i always need to change the power of my flash as -1.
Is it alright to leave the film in a room temperature room? I just started using my 600 up close instant film Polaroid and I want to be able to take good pictures ^^
If you're only storing it for a month or two, it will be okay at room temperature for sure. But any longer and the film should be stored in the fridge. Don't store the film in the freezer, though.
What is the best setting if you plan to take Polaroids at a concert?
That is a little bit harder to do, but definitely not impossible. The most important thing is to make sure the artist is in good light, and you should be okay even without flash, though you will probably get some motion blur. Fuji Instax film is also a little more sensitive and may work better than Polaroid.
Can u explain how u got this amazing shot at 4:15mins?
Any tips to archive a similar result with a onestep+?
That image with a Onestep+ camera should be fairly easy. The silhouette is easy to achieve as long as there is more sky in the image than anything else. Make sure the sun is in your frame, then the camera will underexpose the foreground and give you those brilliant sunset colors.
Why are my Polaroids so faint and blurry??
Have you checked the expiry date on your Polaroids? That could have something to do with it. You can always send me an example using the email address in the contact section for this channel - I may be able to help you out there!
Just got a new sx 70 from BFC and I’m plagued with light leaks 😠
From Brooklyn Film Camera? They're supposed to be some of the best! Have you reached out to them? They should take the camera back and fix it for free or send you a new one.
I'm sorry to hear you're going through that! That's so frustrating.
Bro mine doesn't have a flash and im not buying a $97 attachment
Without that, you need to be in the right light. It's easy enough to do (cloudy day is fine, have the sun behind you at sunset). The flash enables you to get perfect exposures in any condition. But you can definitely get good photos without it if you know what to look for.
We can’t crop the photo… statements like this ..
… of course not.
Sometimes you just have to mention that context to drive a point home.
sadly, my fridge is too cold for the film
Wait, why is your fridge too cold for this film?
A Polaroid will never be sharp, this is due to its very principle: the chemistry is integrated and diffuses in the emulsion which is only a contact print.
For sure, there are limitations to the sharpness of Polaroids. But they can still be quite sharp - I've been surprised many times by how sharp they can actually get. But of course, if you're comparing the sharpness of a Polaroid versus a Contax, Leica, or Hasselblad lens and film, you're going to be disappointed.
@@LearnFilmPhotography I think you misunderstood me. I love the Polaroid and I deplore the disappearance of films, especially for large format films like the Pack 100. the diffuse image is precisely what makes it so charming. That said, your video is very interesting.
I never got to shoot Pack 100 films! I wish I did. That format looked incredible.
just took my first polaroid600 photo it was ducking horrible aint no way am i waiting a 20 dollar roll so here i am
Polaroid is way harder to shoot than they make you think! I hope this saves you some money!
"outmoded temperature scale"?
Dude, Fahrenheit is infinitely better than Celsius in every conceivable way.
It's almost twice as precise, it's MUCH closer to the actually temperature sensing capabilities of the human body, and you can actually make some sense of ambient temperatures.
How are you supposed to know what weather to prepare for when the difference between needing a jacket or needing shorts and a tank top is as little as 1 degree? It's nonsense. I genuinely don't know how you people deal with Celsius. It would drive absolutely insane.
I fully admit that the metric system is miles better than imperial in every measurement, except temperature. Celsius is a complete and utter joke.
But, celsius is so much easier to intuit without needing to memorize obscure numbers (unless you're measuring something on the periodic table, which Fahrenheit doesn't do better). Boiling point? 100. Freezing point? 0. standard room temperature at 1 atmosphere (as most lived experience it's moderately cold for women, but good for men, so) 20°C.
As someone who has used celsius and metric all my life, it's just as easy to know the difference between when to wear a jacket and when not to based on that single number - I wouldn't be able to do that in Fahrenheit without a translation. But in all honesty, there are days when 25°C feels cold and others where it feels hot. Not because 76 is cold and 77 is perfect, but because there are so many other factors, like wind, humidity, and sunshine to consider. Probably if you're used to the dry Arizona heat, and then come to Canada or the UK in mid-summer, there were other factors that made it feel colder even if the temperature was precisely the same.
It's honestly just semantics and experience. Overall, I don't find celsius to be imprecise - if you need gradation and accuracy, we've got decimal places in intuitive 10ths.
@@LearnFilmPhotography unless you're some kind of scientist, then the boiling point of water is utterly irrelevant. Literally no one else needs to know that. Not even professional chefs.
That means you need to remember exactly ONE NUMBER. The freezing point. (It's 32, by the way. Not at all hard to remember.)
If you're willing to put up with the complete lack of precision that ends up forcing you to draw a number out to 3 decimal places with alarming regularity purely to avoid remembering a single number, then you're just downright lazy. That entire argument is completely invalid.
And weather may be more complicated than just pure temperature, but temperature alone will more often than not tell you everything you need to know. At least in fahrenheit. It tells you next to nothing in Celsius because the difference between 20 and 21 is positively astronomical.
@General Nickles I've only needed 3 decimal places in a lab - the most precise I've needed to be in regular life is 1 decimal place when developing film or making caramel, so not that bad.
And the difference between 20°C and 21°C is 1.8° Fahrenheit. Not a big deal. If you need it to be precisely 20.5°C (a nice 69°F) to be comfortable, you've got bigger problems than the temperature scale you're using.
I doubt this crappy camera will show imperfections in my skin 😂