I think, is the same for some hobbies or even learning trip : sometimes it goes wrong, makes you crazy. The point is that you deal with it, continue and finally finish this one. It's a good achievement I think, and even if you give up, you will not have "yet another unfinished project on the workbench". Hope you will continue, if you got pleasure from it (of course). And as always, you're honest and true beginner, it's rare on the internet.
Thank you, I REALLY appreciate it. Based on the comments, I've completely torn down the watch and recleaned it. It's about 3/4 back together as we speak.
@@watchout9213 So you continue ! That's nice :) Do you plan to change the crystal also ? If I remember, it's a bit scratchy but I don't know if it's as simple as it looks ;)
Hi Stephen, great video! I think your amplitude issue may be related to over oiling but it also looks like any number of other littles issues could be in play as that's a curious and tiny little movement! That was certainly an interesting movement for you to tackle! I respect that you even got it running at all! In any case from my limited knowledge I'm pretty sure that you did over-oil just about everything including the escape wheel and the pallet stone that you used to apply the oil to the escape wheel teeth. I recommend that you watch some additional oiling videos before doing another movement to check if I'm correct or not. Thanks for sharing though! I love the in depth of your coverage and discussion and your cameras set-up and shots are fantastic!
Thanks Dayton!! Yeah, good point, I hadn't really thought about over oiling as being a possible culprit. I think it is pretty clear I am going to have to disassemble the watch and recheck my work, so in doing so I might as well clean and re-oil in the process. The only other thing I can think of is a problem with the mainspring (or the way I re-assembled it). It seems to me the reason it has low amplitude is because not enough power is getting down the train. I did a little test to prove this, I removed the wheel between the fourth wheel and the centre seconds pivot, amplitude went from 180 to 210. Still way low, but seems to prove my theory????
Oh, the cameras are evolving - half way through this video I changed from the Sony 16-50mm lens to the Sigma 70mm Macro Art lens. I love it! With APS-C crop factor I get 105mm equivelant, and with the excellent Sony digital zoom of 1.5x I still get 4k recording but up to 157.5mm to be precise. And just as I was wrapping this video up, I got my Sony A6700, so the 6700 will become the A camera with the Sigma on it, the ZV-E10 will become the B-Cam with the Sony lens. This means the iPhone 8 (old B-Cam) will be retired. I started out Youtubing on my other channel with the iPhone - did a great job, but not so great for watchmaking! I'm looking forward to doing my first video with the new setup. People slag that 16-50mm kit lens as a pretty meh lens, but I think for a kit lens it is great, and compared to the Nikon 18-55mm that was the kit lens on my first real camera (D3100) it is fantastic!
@@watchout9213Hi, Stephen,carry on regardless,you will get better as you go, when oiling, little is more. Would you make a video of your video set up??? Love to see how that is done. Thanks. If its any consolation, i did subscribe to your channel.Keep it up mate.
Thanks for the video. I've been replacing straps, batteries and removing links from bracelets for some time, and even though I have the tools, I haven't attempted to service an automatic movement yet. Through your channel (and others), I am gaining the knowledge to give me the required confidence.
I'm not trying to copy Marshall, but this is all his fault! Watching his videos is what got me into this black hole. It was nice to see in his last video him saying how he learned, by doing the same things I am doing now - taking Mark Lovick's lessons at watchfix.com, and watching other peoples videos. Thanks for Watching!
You mention how some watchmakers on UA-cam can seemingly place a plate onto the movement and almost magically get all pivots into their respective jewel holes almost immediately. It isn’t a camera trick, it’s partly a matter of practice and also because some watch movements just cooperate and behave like that (particularly really high grade watches). Lower grade cheaper watches are almost universally more difficult to reassemble compared to a high grade watch of equal complexity. Once you work on a movement like this you will see and feel what I am talking about. Great to see that you got this movement sorted out in a later video. I noticed in that video you still seem a bit heavy handed with the oil. It is very hard to get the quantity of oil just right, you’ll get there with practice if you seek out information that guides you in this respect. Alex Hamilton has a great video on this on his UA-cam channel and the BHI has a great PDF on oiling if you Google it. Hope that helps & I look forward to your future content.
Thanks - maybe you might suggest what I should work on next. I don't think I'm ready for a calendar or an automatic yet, I just need a simple movement to keep on developing technique.
@@watchout9213 I would suggest a Chinese clone of the ETA/Unitas 6497 or 6498, such as a Seagull ST36. This is a larger movement originally designed for pocket watches but is small enough that it also finds use in some larger wrist watches. It is a great beginner movement. Don’t work on damaged or poorly performing units until you can reliably take apart, clean, oil and reassemble a new working ST36 and have it performing flawlessly. One more suggestion if you ended up with fibres from a jumper in a movement is to ensure you have a scrupulously clean work area and a lab coat if fibres from the clothes you wear are getting into movements. One tiny fibre in the wrong place will stop a watch or ruin its performance and until you eliminate variables you can control like this you will end up getting very frustrated over mystery faults appearing from nowhere.
Yes - the problem with this movement is it is so small that if I don't hold the movement holder it tips. I guess a case of practise and technique - thanks for Watching!
I think, is the same for some hobbies or even learning trip : sometimes it goes wrong, makes you crazy. The point is that you deal with it, continue and finally finish this one. It's a good achievement I think, and even if you give up, you will not have "yet another unfinished project on the workbench". Hope you will continue, if you got pleasure from it (of course). And as always, you're honest and true beginner, it's rare on the internet.
Thank you, I REALLY appreciate it. Based on the comments, I've completely torn down the watch and recleaned it. It's about 3/4 back together as we speak.
@@watchout9213 So you continue ! That's nice :)
Do you plan to change the crystal also ? If I remember, it's a bit scratchy but I don't know if it's as simple as it looks ;)
I don't have a crystal press.
Hi Stephen, great video! I think your amplitude issue may be related to over oiling but it also looks like any number of other littles issues could be in play as that's a curious and tiny little movement! That was certainly an interesting movement for you to tackle! I respect that you even got it running at all! In any case from my limited knowledge I'm pretty sure that you did over-oil just about everything including the escape wheel and the pallet stone that you used to apply the oil to the escape wheel teeth. I recommend that you watch some additional oiling videos before doing another movement to check if I'm correct or not. Thanks for sharing though! I love the in depth of your coverage and discussion and your cameras set-up and shots are fantastic!
Yieeesss.. Too much oil for such a tiny movement...
Thanks Dayton!! Yeah, good point, I hadn't really thought about over oiling as being a possible culprit. I think it is pretty clear I am going to have to disassemble the watch and recheck my work, so in doing so I might as well clean and re-oil in the process. The only other thing I can think of is a problem with the mainspring (or the way I re-assembled it). It seems to me the reason it has low amplitude is because not enough power is getting down the train. I did a little test to prove this, I removed the wheel between the fourth wheel and the centre seconds pivot, amplitude went from 180 to 210. Still way low, but seems to prove my theory????
Most vintage movements have lower amplitude than the newer version....
Oh, the cameras are evolving - half way through this video I changed from the Sony 16-50mm lens to the Sigma 70mm Macro Art lens. I love it! With APS-C crop factor I get 105mm equivelant, and with the excellent Sony digital zoom of 1.5x I still get 4k recording but up to 157.5mm to be precise. And just as I was wrapping this video up, I got my Sony A6700, so the 6700 will become the A camera with the Sigma on it, the ZV-E10 will become the B-Cam with the Sony lens. This means the iPhone 8 (old B-Cam) will be retired. I started out Youtubing on my other channel with the iPhone - did a great job, but not so great for watchmaking! I'm looking forward to doing my first video with the new setup. People slag that 16-50mm kit lens as a pretty meh lens, but I think for a kit lens it is great, and compared to the Nikon 18-55mm that was the kit lens on my first real camera (D3100) it is fantastic!
@@watchout9213Hi, Stephen,carry on regardless,you will get better as you go, when oiling, little is more. Would you make a video of your video set up??? Love to see how that is done. Thanks. If its any consolation, i did subscribe to your channel.Keep it up mate.
Thanks for the video. I've been replacing straps, batteries and removing links from bracelets for some time, and even though I have the tools, I haven't attempted to service an automatic movement yet. Through your channel (and others), I am gaining the knowledge to give me the required confidence.
Thanks for Watching! I think I should have started out on one of those Seagull movements. I may do so yet.
Me in exact same situation
Love it! Just like Marshall!
I'm not trying to copy Marshall, but this is all his fault! Watching his videos is what got me into this black hole. It was nice to see in his last video him saying how he learned, by doing the same things I am doing now - taking Mark Lovick's lessons at watchfix.com, and watching other peoples videos. Thanks for Watching!
Good video! A ladies movement is challenging because of it's size. Not a easy thing to work on. I started with pocket watches first.
The lift angle of the timegrapher affect quite significant for the measurements...
You mention how some watchmakers on UA-cam can seemingly place a plate onto the movement and almost magically get all pivots into their respective jewel holes almost immediately.
It isn’t a camera trick, it’s partly a matter of practice and also because some watch movements just cooperate and behave like that (particularly really high grade watches). Lower grade cheaper watches are almost universally more difficult to reassemble compared to a high grade watch of equal complexity. Once you work on a movement like this you will see and feel what I am talking about.
Great to see that you got this movement sorted out in a later video. I noticed in that video you still seem a bit heavy handed with the oil. It is very hard to get the quantity of oil just right, you’ll get there with practice if you seek out information that guides you in this respect. Alex Hamilton has a great video on this on his UA-cam channel and the BHI has a great PDF on oiling if you Google it.
Hope that helps & I look forward to your future content.
Thanks, it does help, and thanks for Watching.
@@watchout9213 you’re welcome. If you have any issues finding the resources I mentioned just let me know here and I’ll help find them.
Thanks - maybe you might suggest what I should work on next. I don't think I'm ready for a calendar or an automatic yet, I just need a simple movement to keep on developing technique.
@@watchout9213 I would suggest a Chinese clone of the ETA/Unitas 6497 or 6498, such as a Seagull ST36.
This is a larger movement originally designed for pocket watches but is small enough that it also finds use in some larger wrist watches. It is a great beginner movement.
Don’t work on damaged or poorly performing units until you can reliably take apart, clean, oil and reassemble a new working ST36 and have it performing flawlessly.
One more suggestion if you ended up with fibres from a jumper in a movement is to ensure you have a scrupulously clean work area and a lab coat if fibres from the clothes you wear are getting into movements.
One tiny fibre in the wrong place will stop a watch or ruin its performance and until you eliminate variables you can control like this you will end up getting very frustrated over mystery faults appearing from nowhere.
You are using waaaay too much lube. Less is more, not just in watch repairing.
Watch out if the screwdriver slips and scratch the bridge(s)…or damage the gear...or even pallet fork... 😱😱😱🤭
Yes - the problem with this movement is it is so small that if I don't hold the movement holder it tips. I guess a case of practise and technique - thanks for Watching!
you can use a heavier movement holder and holding the screwdriver with tweezers...
and of course practice makes perfect... ✊🏽✊🏽✊🏽
I'm not even better than you sir... 🤭😅 onward and upward ✊🏽✊🏽✊🏽
I'm gonna try holding the movement holder down with Rodico - you can do anything with that stuff!