dam my controller box was full of dust and cat hair. cleaned it all out as instructed by this vid and so far so good - the drift seems to be gone! thanks : 3
I bought an as-is Wavebird controller on Ebay that wouldn't turn on at first; turns out the battery connector was corroded from battery acid I would assume, so putting that in white vinegar fixed it, and then I find that both sticks have extreme drift. Now they have zero drift thanks to your video.
I’m so glad you don’t have to solder with this. I took part my controller that I ordered on eBay a couple weeks back and cleaned everything except for stick boxes. I got rid of the c stick problems but the left sticks drags persists. I looked into soldering and I just don’t have the time or energy to do stuff like that with a. high chance of failure. I’m gonna give this method a shot and just clean my sticks from the inside like you did and update.
Thanks man, worked on OEM controller too, but with the raised part of the potentiometer near me, the sticks where kind of counterclock turned or inverted, weird. Anyways ur the best, greetings from El Alto city
bro thank you so much i just got a spice orange controller and was so sad because it drifted, but after this video it feels brand new, thats a sub from me 🙏
This was much harder than I thought it would be. The small black disk-like piece that fits inside the box would not clip back into place after removing it. Also, the black box itself would not clip back into place either. I do not recommend trying this as the plastic pieces are too brittle to reseat.
Was advised of this to improve on stick flick issues, and ending up ruining my controller (not the guide's fault, my inexperience) The left and right inputs on the L-Stick doesn't read anymore at all. The potentiometer pins broke off, so I've since removed it and replaced it with one from a donor Wii Nunchuk, but it still doesn't read. Is there anything else I can try to get horizontal movement working?
This is all well and good John but people need to realize that what they are doing is bending the potentiometer posts that are soldered to the board. The more you bend them, the higher the risk there is of breaking the posts off and toasting the potentiometer. Go ahead and do it Johns way but in the mean time, Learn to solder.
great video. but my experience is to replace the whole potetionmeter, the result is much better. there are thirty part potentionmeter, cheap and work well.
@@ZELIOASnot sure what you mean. i used the third party potentionmeter fot t1 t2. T3 not used beause i have no t3 controller. They work well. Those gamecube alternative potentionmeter can find at ali or Amazon easily.
My stick doesn't goes full to the left (the physical stick does but it does not recognize the input at 100% just barely 40%) but other directions work well, it could be just dust in the X axis ¿? or how do i know it is a bigger problem?
@@ryeply I cleaned it with some specialized products but it just improved a little and just for a moment. This gets annoying in 3d games cause you just walk and can't run. 2d games mapped to the stick like emulators seem to work like whatever but it is digital inputs in a stick. Amazon has the potentiometer but you need someone who knows how to do the work.
Great guide, I followed along and cleaned all around both the x and y axis. when I reconnected the potentiometers I confirmed they were connected to the stick as shown. I also unclipped and reclipped the black clips on my C-stick. I put my controller back together and plugged in and my control stick doesn't seem to be giving off any inputs for either x or y axis. The c-stick and other buttons still work, just the control stick doesn't. I'm using a ultimate era GC controller. Anything I can do to troubleshoot or hopefully fix this issue?
Okay I figured it out. My Potentiometer was oriented incorrectly. There's a tiny hole on mine. I rotated both 180 degrees and it worked again. Thanks for the help
@@Slante0010 Can you go into more detail about this? I just took mine apart and cleaned it and made one axis worse / not work anymore and I don't understand why. I did find putting the black clips back in hard to line and stuff. :/
@@emblem4ever the way the potentiometers go back in is important, so just look very carefully when putting them back together and remember to test it quickly before you screw things back together. Sorry it's been a while so I can't remember specifics
the only solution at that point is to desolder the entire potentiometer and put a new one in. check my website nojonsmods.com/moddermap to find someone near you to help with the repair
Does the wire have to be facing up or down? I did this and now only my up and right work but my left and down won't work. I can't tell if you put the wire facing up or down
Literally the only video I found on cleaning this. Thank you.
dam my controller box was full of dust and cat hair. cleaned it all out as instructed by this vid and so far so good - the drift seems to be gone! thanks : 3
found this in my recommended as soon as my controller started to drift. very useful!
Jon thanks for this simple and easy to understand tutorial for cleaning up gamecube controller stick boxes. I aim to try this out real soon.
thanks scruffy
I bought an as-is Wavebird controller on Ebay that wouldn't turn on at first; turns out the battery connector was corroded from battery acid I would assume, so putting that in white vinegar fixed it, and then I find that both sticks have extreme drift. Now they have zero drift thanks to your video.
Worked like a charm. You're the real MVP, my man. Keeping the game alive for the oem plebs
I’m so glad you don’t have to solder with this. I took part my controller that I ordered on eBay a couple weeks back and cleaned everything except for stick boxes. I got rid of the c stick problems but the left sticks drags persists. I looked into soldering and I just don’t have the time or energy to do stuff like that with a. high chance of failure. I’m gonna give this method a shot and just clean my sticks from the inside like you did and update.
did it work?
Completely removed the drift from mine. Thank you!
Worked like a charm I fixed two controllers that were having drift and stick issues, thanks!
Just cleaned out my controller and it now works great! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks man, worked on OEM controller too, but with the raised part of the potentiometer near me, the sticks where kind of counterclock turned or inverted, weird. Anyways ur the best, greetings from El Alto city
Absolute legend, worked on the knock-off Chinese controller I got!!!
Thank you, now my controller is fixed and I didn't have to change the whole thing.
This video helped me so much! Now I have no johns while playing smash
you sound like peter parker
bro thank you so much i just got a spice orange controller and was so sad because it drifted, but after this video it feels brand new, thats a sub from me 🙏
Are there other products I can use if I don't have isopropyl alcohol? Like, I don't know, vinegar?
Can you say “I’m gonna put some dirt in your eye”? 😂 Nah jk, these instructions were great for fixing my old gamecube controllers. Excellent
Will this work with other GameCube controllers, like a GameStop branded one?
Cleaning my T1 pots helped my controller 👍
Another controller fixed in home thanks to you
Lo solucione como en el video limpiando el potenciometro , excelente (Y)
This was much harder than I thought it would be. The small black disk-like piece that fits inside the box would not clip back into place after removing it. Also, the black box itself would not clip back into place either. I do not recommend trying this as the plastic pieces are too brittle to reseat.
the wiper has to clip in at a certain orientation, thats why there is a hollow line in it
Was advised of this to improve on stick flick issues, and ending up ruining my controller (not the guide's fault, my inexperience)
The left and right inputs on the L-Stick doesn't read anymore at all. The potentiometer pins broke off, so I've since removed it and replaced it with one from a donor Wii Nunchuk, but it still doesn't read. Is there anything else I can try to get horizontal movement working?
This is all well and good John but people need to realize that what they are doing is bending the potentiometer posts that are soldered to the board. The more you bend them, the higher the risk there is of breaking the posts off and toasting the potentiometer. Go ahead and do it Johns way but in the mean time, Learn to solder.
Thank you dude, this video helped me a lot!
Big thanks, my dude
great video. but my experience is to replace the whole potetionmeter, the result is much better. there are thirty part potentionmeter, cheap and work well.
Do tou know model potentiometer?
@@ZELIOASnot sure what you mean. i used the third party potentionmeter fot t1 t2. T3 not used beause i have no t3 controller. They work well. Those gamecube alternative potentionmeter can find at ali or Amazon easily.
thanks buddy! saved my gaming session xD
Thank you for this helpful video!
You need to use 90% alcohol, not 70% as shown in the video. 70% can leave a non-Conductive residue
My stick doesn't goes full to the left (the physical stick does but it does not recognize the input at 100% just barely 40%) but other directions work well, it could be just dust in the X axis ¿? or how do i know it is a bigger problem?
I have a similar problem, did you ever figure it out?
@@ryeply I cleaned it with some specialized products but it just improved a little and just for a moment. This gets annoying in 3d games cause you just walk and can't run. 2d games mapped to the stick like emulators seem to work like whatever but it is digital inputs in a stick. Amazon has the potentiometer but you need someone who knows how to do the work.
Great guide, I followed along and cleaned all around both the x and y axis. when I reconnected the potentiometers I confirmed they were connected to the stick as shown. I also unclipped and reclipped the black clips on my C-stick. I put my controller back together and plugged in and my control stick doesn't seem to be giving off any inputs for either x or y axis. The c-stick and other buttons still work, just the control stick doesn't. I'm using a ultimate era GC controller. Anything I can do to troubleshoot or hopefully fix this issue?
Okay I figured it out. My Potentiometer was oriented incorrectly. There's a tiny hole on mine. I rotated both 180 degrees and it worked again. Thanks for the help
@@Slante0010 Can you go into more detail about this? I just took mine apart and cleaned it and made one axis worse / not work anymore and I don't understand why. I did find putting the black clips back in hard to line and stuff. :/
@@emblem4ever the way the potentiometers go back in is important, so just look very carefully when putting them back together and remember to test it quickly before you screw things back together. Sorry it's been a while so I can't remember specifics
can i use another kinda of alcohol?
is there a possibility my c-stick which is drifting is affected by dirt or being off center in a way im gonna open it tommorrow just curious
Increíble, así que de allí viene el movimiento y no de la caja.
Witch gc controller potentiometer model: 10k, 50k or 100k?
When I touch the joystick (not even moving it) it drifts to the left side
Will this work?
Yes it will Work.
damn wtf my x potentiometer was crooked when i opened up my controller 😂
Lol
My potentiometer has a long delay. I follow this tutorial, but it didn't fix my problem.
What should I do?
the only solution at that point is to desolder the entire potentiometer and put a new one in. check my website nojonsmods.com/moddermap to find someone near you to help with the repair
I replaced the potentiometer that moved the X axis.
But it didn't change anything. I cannot move the stick between the X axis.
Also tried to change the whole stickbox, still nothing.
Does the wire have to be facing up or down? I did this and now only my up and right work but my left and down won't work. I can't tell if you put the wire facing up or down
you need to remember which way you took it apart
@@nojonsmods1988 I figured it out and I think it has to be facing upwards for future reference
Just took mine apart and they face up
thanks
Kind a stupid question but will this work with the wii nunchucks ?
yes, wii nunchucks use the same potentiometers as gccs
This tutorial is so low quality and you didn’t say how to put the pieces back in? You just did it?
Will this work on a gamestop version remote for GC
Bruh
How’s that my problem?
Thanks dud
i didnt know spiderman modded gamecube controllers
yooo
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