You can get more, possibly important information, from the other numbers. The first character of the DTC indicates which part of the vehicle has a problem. It also shows the category of the DTC. The first letter used stands for the part that needs fixing. P for power-train, which covers the transmission, engine, and associated accessories. What are B codes? B for the body or all parts in the passenger compartment. U indicates the vehicle integration and network, or what the onboard computer system manages in terms of functions. C stands for the chassis or the mechanical systems and functions The second character is a number-either 0 or 1. Zero (0) is the standardized, generic, or global code and can follow SAE definitions. One (1) indicated a manufacturer-specific code. Number two (2) is also manufacture specific. The following or third character is also a number and ranges from 1 to 8. This number indicates the vehicle subsystem at fault: 0 refers to the fuel and air metering plus the auxiliary emission controls. 1 refers to the fuel and air metering. 2 also refers to the fuel and air metering but the injector circuit in particular. 3 indicates the ignition system or misfires. 4 is for the auxiliary emission controls. 5 is the vehicle speed control, auxiliary input, and idle control systems. 6 stands for the output circuit and computer. 7 indicates the transmission. The fourth and fifth characters define what problem the vehicle is experiencing. The numbers can range from 0 to 99. To know the meaning of the last two characters or numbers, you will have to download the DTC codes list PDF specific to your vehicle. Important to note is that Snap-On is the very most expensive, and in my opinion, not work the very large extra money. The latest scan tool cost in the neighborhood of $12,000 dollars, or more. There are many scan tools, not shown here, that around $4,000 or less can do most anything the Snap-On can do, and in many cases considerably more. Most all of these scanner/tools charge for updates, again Snap-On is the most expensive by far, followed by Autel. I think this is important for viewers to know. The Snap-On is OK, but far to expensive for most people. I want to add that this is not a criticism of the video. It contains very good information and is well done. Thanks for making it. Omegaman
Cool. I've been using a mini bluetooth OBD2 adapter (Hikeren) with the Toque Pro app for about seven years. I've use it mainly to monitor fuel trims and other engine parameters. I've also used it to diagnose p0420 code and was able to graph o2 sensor voltages in real time and discover a lean condition. I have a 2006 Matrix with 206,000 miles.
This was one awesome ass video. Very informative. A rich man learns something everyday, & I learned something from U guys. I thank U all for that! I’m now subscribed! 👍🏿
I've been happy with my xtool d8 bt ... OEM level and been amazed everything that this tool offer's... Topology mapping has been a time saver as well... Lovin' it ...
So I am the family mechanic.. I have a job I do daily because I enjoy working on cars as a hobby or in my personal time … not out to make money .. that said .. I understand I can’t do everything and send it to a shop if I can’t figure out the problem .. but what is the best for domestic cars for a guy just wanting to help family out .. looking at the Autel maxi.. about 4k .. is there a better choice?
Had to tow my car to a branded repair shop but they couldn't connect to my ecu with their branded computer, got a cheep mucar cs4 and it connects without any problems
If you specifically need to check internal resistance, they are incredibly expensive. To the point that you would likely never recuperate the initial investment. If that’s a must have, then I would have to go with the name I know most: fluke. Their BT series can do that. Nearly every place that tests batteries check voltage, cca, and reserve capacity, and have the ability to check starting and charging systems. We both have midtronics handheld testers that will do all of that. They are reliable and accurate for that at a reasonable price. Hope this helps!
I have a pcm need to flash the car accelerate which scan tool I could buy reasonable that are reset my PCM unit the car not accelerate it's an Acura 2006 TL and I need to buy the right scan tool that would eliminate reset the car like normal and that's not expensive that really works thank you
We’ve never had one quit working. The autel is temperamental and will lose connection, not perform some functions, and require reboots quite a bit. But I use the verus nearly every day and it’s never given me any issues.
What do you guys think about this device called FIXD? I have one that is saying I have a mis fire on number one cylinder, P301 I think. It's a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with a 3.8, anyway I was also told this device can detect a bad catalytic converter? Which is not showing on my van. What do you think?
I don’t know much about it. Looking online it looks like the basic one just reads codes. There is a premium version that give you emissions check which I’m assuming is jargon for monitor status. Usually if you have a misfire the rest of the monitors won’t run. I have a blue logic unit similar to what you are asking about and it will do monitor status as well.
@@automotiveinsight Thanks for your reply! I have a real mystery machine here, so far some of my best trustworthy mechanics have not been able to figure it out yet, but they have been very busy with the holidays and all. One said they think it's the lower intake gasket is leaking even though it's not leaking any antifreeze and they think the converter might be bad? The other one is still working on it. The number one plug, plug wire, and coil pack have been changed by me and my friend. ? Any suggestions? 🙏
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. You have to have all 4 to run. Figure out which one your missing. But those engines are pretty notorious for chewing up rocker arms/lifters/camshafts.
I removed the Throttle Valve and cleaned it due to Idle hunting. Engine light came on. I also changed plugs 2021 F150. Is there a tool that I can reset or remove the engine light?
You can get more, possibly important information, from the other numbers.
The first character of the DTC indicates which part of the vehicle has a problem. It also shows the category of the DTC. The first letter used stands for the part that needs fixing.
P for power-train, which covers the transmission, engine, and associated accessories.
What are B codes? B for the body or all parts in the passenger compartment.
U indicates the vehicle integration and network, or what the onboard computer system manages in terms of functions.
C stands for the chassis or the mechanical systems and functions
The second character is a number-either 0 or 1. Zero (0) is the standardized, generic, or global code and can follow SAE definitions. One (1) indicated a manufacturer-specific code. Number two (2) is also manufacture specific.
The following or third character is also a number and ranges from 1 to 8. This number indicates the vehicle subsystem at fault:
0 refers to the fuel and air metering plus the auxiliary emission controls.
1 refers to the fuel and air metering.
2 also refers to the fuel and air metering but the injector circuit in particular.
3 indicates the ignition system or misfires.
4 is for the auxiliary emission controls.
5 is the vehicle speed control, auxiliary input, and idle control systems.
6 stands for the output circuit and computer.
7 indicates the transmission.
The fourth and fifth characters define what problem the vehicle is experiencing. The numbers can range from 0 to 99. To know the meaning of the last two characters or numbers, you will have to download the DTC codes list PDF specific to your vehicle.
Important to note is that Snap-On is the very most expensive, and in my opinion, not work the very large extra money. The latest scan tool cost in the neighborhood of $12,000 dollars, or more. There are many scan tools, not shown here, that around $4,000 or less can do most anything the Snap-On can do, and in many cases considerably more. Most all of these scanner/tools charge for updates, again Snap-On is the most expensive by far, followed by Autel. I think this is important for viewers to know. The Snap-On is OK, but far to expensive for most people.
I want to add that this is not a criticism of the video. It contains very good information and is well done. Thanks for making it.
Omegaman
Correct on all points. Great additional information as well! Thanks for your input!
U
Y
Cool. I've been using a mini bluetooth OBD2 adapter (Hikeren) with the Toque Pro app for about seven years. I've use it mainly to monitor fuel trims and other engine parameters. I've also used it to diagnose p0420 code and was able to graph o2 sensor voltages in real time and discover a lean condition. I have a 2006 Matrix with 206,000 miles.
This was one awesome ass video. Very informative. A rich man learns something everyday, & I learned something from U guys. I thank U all for that! I’m now subscribed! 👍🏿
Thanks so much. It means a lot!
@@automotiveinsight No doubt!
Great scan tool info! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
I've been happy with my xtool d8 bt ... OEM level and been amazed everything that this tool offer's... Topology mapping has been a time saver as well... Lovin' it ...
You want a obd2 reader that reads as many codes as possible for each category. engine /transmission etc
Which one do u recommend?
Thanks, Great Video, and Information.
Great viceo guys, Keep up the great work.
Thanks a lot!
Great video,keep up the good work
So I am the family mechanic.. I have a job I do daily because I enjoy working on cars as a hobby or in my personal time … not out to make money .. that said .. I understand I can’t do everything and send it to a shop if I can’t figure out the problem .. but what is the best for domestic cars for a guy just wanting to help family out .. looking at the Autel maxi.. about 4k .. is there a better choice?
Autel maxi is a very capable machine.
Ok fuel sync! Need to be able to set on my 96 dakota. Any of these fancy things that I don't need a mortgage for can do it?
Very informative video! Any recommendation for an inexpensive biderectional scanner? TIA.
For gm/chevy?
Had to tow my car to a branded repair shop but they couldn't connect to my ecu with their branded computer, got a cheep mucar cs4 and it connects without any problems
Which scanner do you recommend to check a battery/internal resistance and a charging system, and accurate?
If you specifically need to check internal resistance, they are incredibly expensive. To the point that you would likely never recuperate the initial investment. If that’s a must have, then I would have to go with the name I know most: fluke. Their BT series can do that. Nearly every place that tests batteries check voltage, cca, and reserve capacity, and have the ability to check starting and charging systems. We both have midtronics handheld testers that will do all of that. They are reliable and accurate for that at a reasonable price. Hope this helps!
I have a pcm need to flash the car accelerate which scan tool I could buy reasonable that are reset my PCM unit the car not accelerate it's an Acura 2006 TL and I need to buy the right scan tool that would eliminate reset the car like normal and that's not expensive that really works thank you
I would suggest the Honda Mongoose cable and Honda HDS software.
I watch several car repair channels and these scanners quit working pretty often, especially Snap On. Have you had any problems like that?
We’ve never had one quit working. The autel is temperamental and will lose connection, not perform some functions, and require reboots quite a bit. But I use the verus nearly every day and it’s never given me any issues.
What do you guys think about this device called FIXD? I have one that is saying I have a mis fire on number one cylinder, P301 I think. It's a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with a 3.8, anyway I was also told this device can detect a bad catalytic converter? Which is not showing on my van. What do you think?
I don’t know much about it. Looking online it looks like the basic one just reads codes. There is a premium version that give you emissions check which I’m assuming is jargon for monitor status. Usually if you have a misfire the rest of the monitors won’t run. I have a blue logic unit similar to what you are asking about and it will do monitor status as well.
@@automotiveinsight Thanks for your reply! I have a real mystery machine here, so far some of my best trustworthy mechanics have not been able to figure it out yet, but they have been very busy with the holidays and all. One said they think it's the lower intake gasket is leaking even though it's not leaking any antifreeze and they think the converter might be bad? The other one is still working on it. The number one plug, plug wire, and coil pack have been changed by me and my friend. ? Any suggestions? 🙏
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. You have to have all 4 to run. Figure out which one your missing. But those engines are pretty notorious for chewing up rocker arms/lifters/camshafts.
Blue OBD2 scanner
What do you think of Carly diagnostic tool?
Don’t have any experience with it. The only device like that we have experience with is BlueDriver. It’s a decent unidirectional tool for the money.
Nice job guys. Any input on Launch?
Thank you! Neither of us have any experience with Launch.
Great video very educational. You know where I can download oem software? I found a few spots don't know if they legit lol
Check out autoenginuity.
Do you have any recommendations for the best inexpensive scanner?
Best to write vin 05 accord
Probably Honda/Acura mongoose cable with HDS software.
I removed the Throttle Valve and cleaned it due to Idle hunting. Engine light came on. I also changed plugs 2021 F150.
Is there a tool that I can reset or remove the engine light?
Nearly any tool can clear the light. You can also run down to a part store and they’ll usually clear them for you.
Great video, thanks 😊
Thanks for watching!