I'm happy yours worked. I ordered the same lock for my Winnebago Vista and it wouldn't work. It turns out those locks are made for doors that are 1.5" thick. My door was 1.67" thick, and due to this being over tolerance the internal linkage didn't line up properly. The door thickness is important, and since Winnebago puts an aluminum spacer around the lock in my 2018 Vista, there was no way to compress the door thickness down to 1.5" thick. It was simply incompatible. I was very disappointed after spending 3hrs figuring out why the lock didn't work. RV Lock gave me a full refund, as they apparently knew about this incompatibility on some rigs. So beware and measure your door thickness first, which requires you to remove the stock door lock mechanism.
I had a similar issue with my Newmar. I modify the catch plate for the handle to be able to grab it. We were actually locked out because it would catch the unlocking mechanism. Fairly simple fix but was very frustrating.
Ordered one for our Fleetwood Bounder the morning it was available. Was so glad to get it due to our Tri-mark lock was falling apart and locking us out. Install was really easy. It was well worth the money. Highly recommend
Hello Tito, This should help out some RV owners that are having the same problem as I did; My Atlas would not always move the dead bolt. You can hear the motor running, but not always moving the bead bolt. I called tech support they said to spry some lithium grease onto the dead bolt. That didn't help at all. The DB had plenty of clearance too. So I removed the Atlas and set it on the workbench. What I discovered that the twist lock knob had a lot of turning resistance to it. So the friction motor didn't have enough torque to rotate the knob. I dismantled the knob assembly and remove some of the black paint from the base of the counter bore. This increased the gap and know it works flawlessly !!!!!!
Omg so glad you got a class A, we have been waiting for a keyless entry and I’d given up. Thanks to you and your awesome video (all your videos are awesome…with great camera angles so we can actually see, so we can be a Tito DIY also), I will order and make my husband’s eyes bc roll as we attempt to install! ❤️❤️❤️ keep them coming!
My friend who has a Tiffen installed an August Lock 4th Gen. It's not an RV lock but he was able to make it work. I don't know much about it, but I know he punches buttons to lock/unlock the front door.
Can't wait until your next video where you unveil your latest mod.....AAA "add an appendage". Designed to makes these projects so much easier. Now that's using your head.
A courageous install. I think I would have tested the initial manual mechanism from inside. Then had someone inside Whalen I was testing the keyless part. Great video. Nicely done. Had no idea these are available. May have to get one for our coach.
Might be helpful to mention that as the majority of class A's don't have a second entry. I'd leave a window open on mine, or test it from inside as I could always climb out a window.
These are great for just using a fob to unlock and lock, but with those keyholes in front, the locks can still be picked fairly easily, not really increasing security, but convenient.
As always, a super helpful video!!! I own Tiffin's Class C Wayfarer and they use the much beefier Class A door latches, entry locks, and handles. I've been hoping for such a new device to come onto the market! Thanks!!! Time for me to go take some measurements...
It looks like your class A experience was very similar to my class C experience. This is something I've been waiting for a long time as well - I think I installed mine in September. The only real difference in my install is that the opening for the adjustment nut was too small for the provided tool. After pondering it for a while I came up with just enlarging it a bit with a cone shaped bit for my drill. It works fine, although the company cautions you to always have a key available so you don't get locked out - in case it malfunctions, overheats (they advise to keep it out of the direct sun), or the battery runs out of power. But it seems to work fine and does its job.
Love the concept, ...and hope the manufacturer will read this. Please allow for five or six digit codes to be used. This will hugely enhance the safety system if someone stands testing standard codes ppl use to break-in.
@@RVwithTito I've actually contacted the company directly and they told me that they do not make one for my particular model. It's a 2004 Jayco Class C 2700DS.
@@prohomevideos Try RecPro. I had one the RP-1098 keyless locks on my 2007 Class C. It worked great. You can also use the RVWITHTITO code for a 5% off. Here's a link to the locks. www.recpro.com/search.php?search_query=keyless+lock§ion=product
looking gorgeous as always … sorta surprised you don’t have a bigger drop cloth / work site .. i don’t know how many times i’d wished i’d taken the time to put down a bigger blanket or similar to not lose that 1! or more washer/ bolt/ but/ red cap/etc i love the edited in purposefully of trying clamp👎and using head👍
Yes that's true 😃 didn't have any on me at the time. I really like gaffer tape too. No. Didn't put sealant on it. It's pretty snug on there though a little bead around the inside top and sides probably wouldn't hurt. The original lock didn't seam to have any though.
Thanks for researching this and showing the installation. Now to see if they have them for Airstreams. Also, good to know your code is 5678. When I see your rig I’ll just make myself at home! [I’m sure you changed it again].😊
Very good video. We have a 2022 Jayco Precept 34G, and the lock has some difficulties...I can't find a digital keypad with FOB anywhere for my Jayco...it's like nobody makes that kind of keypad locks for class-A motorhomes..I would really appreciate any hint about this ..thank you
Just a reminder at the final lock and unlock, leave a secondary way to get into the rv just in case the new lock has a problem. Don’t ask me how I know.
Wow, I can’t believe there is no after market keyless entry lock for class A rigs until now. Any idea why? I don’t like the rechargeable battery. My class C uses double A batteries that last well over a year.
I'm not sure if I'll get a low battery warning or not. I plug it in to charge overnight every few weeks. I don't know why there haven't been many after market class A keypads...maybe a smaller market and more equipment variations.
discount code not valid :( I'm thinking about one of these for my recently acquired 2009 Sunseeker 3120DS, which is the same floorplan as your old Class C. Love the vids you did on all the mods for that one, but couldn't find one on the keyless door lock. Am I just missing it or did not not do a vid on that? thanks and keep up the great videos and information!!
You're right I don't think I made a video on that one. Here's the lock I installed on our class C: www.recpro.com/rv-electronic-door-lock/?referral=RVWITHTITO
Thanks for the video but I am not impressed how far that deadbolt moved when using keypad. Would have loved to see how far it moved after installation. Thanks again
I just had to add this to my Winnebago. The old door handle, the internal link broke and the handle just flipped but could catch to unlatch the door. With all the windows locked and no access via a cargo compartment, I had to cut and drill to access the internal latch. If you’d like to see the video on how to drill the handle, let me know how I can share it with you.
They advertise it also for a class c. I own a very common brand (Thor) and the setback is not enough for this lock. I have only 1-1/4. You would not think it would be so hard to make a version with a less needed setbay. Waited so long for this to come out and it still will not work.
Hi Brian. I have watched you do all the things to your class c. And now your class a. I have a 2001 Fleetwood Bounder 34ft. I would like to ask you some electrical questions. What I have done and what can I do. But texting would take too long. Would it be ok if you call me or I call you so we can talk instead of texting.
Update - This lock is back in stock but going fast. Shop here rvwithtito.com/rvlock
Great how to video, thank you for sharing 🤩 I'm confident I can replace one on my own now 🥳
The guy in the RVlock video makes it look so easy. I had the same problems as you
GOTTA SAY, I ALWAYS APPRECIATE SEEING THOSE SNAPON TOOLS. GREAT VIDEO AS ALWAYS. THANKS, BRIAN.
At 10:10 Shows how a smart man knows when to use his head! Been there, Done that. LOL
It comes in handy every once in a while 😄
I'm happy yours worked. I ordered the same lock for my Winnebago Vista and it wouldn't work. It turns out those locks are made for doors that are 1.5" thick. My door was 1.67" thick, and due to this being over tolerance the internal linkage didn't line up properly. The door thickness is important, and since Winnebago puts an aluminum spacer around the lock in my 2018 Vista, there was no way to compress the door thickness down to 1.5" thick. It was simply incompatible. I was very disappointed after spending 3hrs figuring out why the lock didn't work. RV Lock gave me a full refund, as they apparently knew about this incompatibility on some rigs. So beware and measure your door thickness first, which requires you to remove the stock door lock mechanism.
Oh that's a bummer. Good to know. Glad to hear that RVLock took care of you though. Hopefully something new will come along that fits.
I had a similar issue with my Newmar. I modify the catch plate for the handle to be able to grab it. We were actually locked out because it would catch the unlocking mechanism. Fairly simple fix but was very frustrating.
Great video Brian nice addition to the class a
Thanks!
Perfect! Out on our maiden voyage in our 2005 itasca Meridian and was just wondering about this last night. Great timing!
Great timing👍Safe travels!
Ordered one for our Fleetwood Bounder the morning it was available. Was so glad to get it due to our Tri-mark lock was falling apart and locking us out. Install was really easy. It was well worth the money. Highly recommend
Great! I kept the Tri-Mark as a spare. Spare :)
Hello Tito,
This should help out some RV owners that are having the same problem as I did;
My Atlas would not always move the dead bolt. You can hear the motor running, but not always moving the bead bolt.
I called tech support they said to spry some lithium grease onto the dead bolt.
That didn't help at all. The DB had plenty of clearance too. So I removed the Atlas and set it on the workbench.
What I discovered that the twist lock knob had a lot of turning resistance to it. So the friction motor didn't have enough torque to rotate the knob. I dismantled the knob assembly and remove some of the black paint from the base of the counter bore.
This increased the gap and know it works flawlessly !!!!!!
Omg so glad you got a class A, we have been waiting for a keyless entry and I’d given up. Thanks to you and your awesome video (all your videos are awesome…with great camera angles so we can actually see, so we can be a Tito DIY also), I will order and make my husband’s eyes bc roll as we attempt to install! ❤️❤️❤️ keep them coming!
Spoke too soon, they do not have one that will fit out Tiffin…😡
My friend who has a Tiffen installed an August Lock 4th Gen. It's not an RV lock but he was able to make it work. I don't know much about it, but I know he punches buttons to lock/unlock the front door.
Can't wait until your next video where you unveil your latest mod.....AAA "add an appendage". Designed to makes these projects so much easier. Now that's using your head.
Hmmm we could all use an extra appendage 😆
You could use some painters tape to hold it in place!!! But you got it
Yup. That would have been my next option 😄
A courageous install. I think I would have tested the initial manual mechanism from inside. Then had someone inside Whalen I was testing the keyless part. Great video. Nicely done. Had no idea these are available. May have to get one for our coach.
Luckily I have a driver's side door...and I've had to use it once or twice while adjusting the lock 😃
Might be helpful to mention that as the majority of class A's don't have a second entry. I'd leave a window open on mine, or test it from inside as I could always climb out a window.
Great Video.. Love The Upgrade..
Thanks! 👍
Outstanding! I will look into this. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Good to see a new video
I will order one soon, thanks for the video. That's using your head.
Use it or lose it 🤪
Awesome Tito... already out of stock. Will check their website later
Hey Hector. They should have more in sock soon I'm told.
@@RVwithTito Thanks, I will check them later. I always wanted something like this. Thanks for the update
Awesome! 👏👍
Good job and thanks for sharing.
No problem 😊
These are great for just using a fob to unlock and lock, but with those keyholes in front, the locks can still be picked fairly easily, not really increasing security, but convenient.
Thanks Tito.
You're welcome.
Thank for sharing that's a great product.
You bet. Yeah. It's pretty convenient. Glad to have a keypad again.
As always, a super helpful video!!! I own Tiffin's Class C Wayfarer and they use the much beefier Class A door latches, entry locks, and handles. I've been hoping for such a new device to come onto the market! Thanks!!! Time for me to go take some measurements...
It looks like your class A experience was very similar to my class C experience. This is something I've been waiting for a long time as well - I think I installed mine in September. The only real difference in my install is that the opening for the adjustment nut was too small for the provided tool. After pondering it for a while I came up with just enlarging it a bit with a cone shaped bit for my drill. It works fine, although the company cautions you to always have a key available so you don't get locked out - in case it malfunctions, overheats (they advise to keep it out of the direct sun), or the battery runs out of power. But it seems to work fine and does its job.
Well I don't think I'll be keeping it out of the sun. That's exactly where I want to be 🌞
Love the concept, ...and hope the manufacturer will read this. Please allow for five or six digit codes to be used. This will hugely enhance the safety system if someone stands testing standard codes ppl use to break-in.
Nice video. I'm looking at purchasing the new RV Lock Atlas that just came available.
Another excellent video THANK YOU! 👍🦅😎🇺🇸
You're welcome 👍
Nice job. I had to use my noggin when doing something similar.
The Noggin is always good for something :)
Great video as usual. Was super excited to see this, but sadly they haven't made one for our lock... yet.
If there's an owners forum for your rig then maybe someone has found a solution.
@@RVwithTito I've actually contacted the company directly and they told me that they do not make one for my particular model. It's a 2004 Jayco Class C 2700DS.
@@prohomevideos Try RecPro. I had one the RP-1098 keyless locks on my 2007 Class C. It worked great. You can also use the RVWITHTITO code for a 5% off. Here's a link to the locks. www.recpro.com/search.php?search_query=keyless+lock§ion=product
looking gorgeous as always … sorta surprised you don’t have a bigger drop cloth / work site .. i don’t know how many times i’d wished i’d taken the time to put down a bigger blanket or similar to not lose that 1! or more washer/ bolt/ but/ red cap/etc
i love the edited in purposefully of trying clamp👎and using head👍
Nice addition. Painters tape would have been a good third hand for you. I've used it for many 2 person jobs. No sealant around the lock?
Yes that's true 😃 didn't have any on me at the time. I really like gaffer tape too. No. Didn't put sealant on it. It's pretty snug on there though a little bead around the inside top and sides probably wouldn't hurt. The original lock didn't seam to have any though.
Good job.
Thanks 😊
Thanks for researching this and showing the installation. Now to see if they have them for Airstreams. Also, good to know your code is 5678. When I see your rig I’ll just make myself at home! [I’m sure you changed it again].😊
Just cmon in. The door's open 😃
What size Torx bit is required to remove the door lock assembly? Thank you.
Very good video. We have a 2022 Jayco Precept 34G, and the lock has some difficulties...I can't find a digital keypad with FOB anywhere for my Jayco...it's like nobody makes that kind of keypad locks for class-A motorhomes..I would really appreciate any hint about this ..thank you
Just a reminder at the final lock and unlock, leave a secondary way to get into the rv just in case the new lock has a problem. Don’t ask me how I know.
For sure...I've got that covered too 😉
Wow, I can’t believe there is no after market keyless entry lock for class A rigs until now. Any idea why? I don’t like the rechargeable battery. My class C uses double A batteries that last well over a year.
I'm not sure if I'll get a low battery warning or not. I plug it in to charge overnight every few weeks. I don't know why there haven't been many after market class A keypads...maybe a smaller market and more equipment variations.
Painters tape would have been handy.
It's never around when you need it 😜
What about the keys if those locks are like all the other. Then someone can walk up and open door the reason I want to change OEM lock
Hi Brian. After 8 months of use, how is your keyless door lock working out for you? Great? Regrets? Other?
discount code not valid :( I'm thinking about one of these for my recently acquired 2009 Sunseeker 3120DS, which is the same floorplan as your old Class C. Love the vids you did on all the mods for that one, but couldn't find one on the keyless door lock. Am I just missing it or did not not do a vid on that? thanks and keep up the great videos and information!!
You're right I don't think I made a video on that one. Here's the lock I installed on our class C: www.recpro.com/rv-electronic-door-lock/?referral=RVWITHTITO
Masking tape works wonders for times like this
Did you reseal the outside with silicone or anything like that?
No. Didn't add any sealant. Previous lock didn't have any. I suppose you could if you felt it necessary.
Thanks for the video but I am not impressed how far that deadbolt moved when using keypad. Would have loved to see how far it moved after installation. Thanks again
Fair enough. I think it moves about 5/8" or so. Door is flush to the plate when closed. So it locks fine. Hope that helps.
I just had to add this to my Winnebago. The old door handle, the internal link broke and the handle just flipped but could catch to unlatch the door. With all the windows locked and no access via a cargo compartment, I had to cut and drill to access the internal latch. If you’d like to see the video on how to drill the handle, let me know how I can share it with you.
Awesome, we had been waiting for that lock for ages, and now it's out of stock :-) Did charging the battery make the deadbolt travel further?
Should be back in stock soon this month I'm told. No I don't think it travels further...just enough.
They advertise it also for a class c. I own a very common brand (Thor) and the setback is not enough for this lock. I have only 1-1/4. You would not think it would be so hard to make a version with a less needed setbay.
Waited so long for this to come out and it still will not work.
you should colab with lock picking lawyer and ask him to unlock your RV
Yeah. I'm sure he could.
Discount code not working anymore
Ah. You're right. I've sent a message to RVLock to fix it. Will report back when it's fixed. Thanks for the heads up.
Heard back from RVLock. Apparently the discounts aren't available on the Atlas lock since it's their newest lock.
they are still out of stock.... LOL this is a future upgrade for us also...
They're supposed to be back in stock soon. Keep checking back.
5678 got it. Where you parked at? 😂 JK I know you are going to change it again 👍🏼. Looks good
I'll never tell 😄
It seems the dead bolt is too short...but if they want to get in- they just bust a window I guess....
Are you an electrician?
Nope. But I do electrical stuff :)
Hi Brian. I have watched you do all the things to your class c. And now your class a. I have a 2001 Fleetwood Bounder 34ft. I would like to ask you some electrical questions. What I have done and what can I do. But texting would take too long. Would it be ok if you call me or I call you so we can talk instead of texting.
Duct tape is your friend…
Yes. An old friend.