I really love your channel, and seeing you work trough these clocks. I am an amateur "Horologist" myself and find your videos very helpful. BTW, "Be Thankful - Be Happy"! I LOVE it! Keep up the good work!
My wife was watching this video with me, and she remarked: "He's never gonna put all the parts back in the right order." (LOL) But I know you will, otherwise this series would never be posted. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing, Ab.
The series is not yet finished Eric. I still have part 4 to do and every time I try to work on it something seems to come up. I am more of a nurse these days. Will eventually get it done to show your wife where everything goes! LOL
Thank you Practical Fixes. I recall when I was young I took some things apart but didn't know how to put them back together. Hopefully, someone who may have tinkered with an old clock, and might not know how it goes back together might be helped by one of these videos. Have a great day! -Ab.
"He who fears climbing mountains, shall live forever between the ditches" . Abul Qassim Alshabi, a Tunisian poet(1909-1934) What is the meaning of life, if we do not try, fail, try again and succeed. You too Ab, have a good day.
I have a video where I show the tool but not really in depth. It is pretty simple so I think anyone can adapt what they see and make their own. Sorry I missed this comment and the late reply.
The two rag system is a good idea. What the VHS tape taught me and you will see other videos with folks doing this is on the time side starting with the great wheel is subscribe on the wheel T1, next wheel T2 (subscribing on the same side that you see) that way when you put it back together you know that you are looking for those marks as you put it together. S1, S2, etc., on the strike side. So as you are working on other clocks and you are seeing these then you know what and why you are seeing this.
@@munnerlyn3 I know that marking the wheels is helpful but some schools of thought are against doing this. I haven't come to a decision regarding the practice myself.
I bought a VHS tape back when I first started collecting and working on my own clocks. So I always use a wire for movements like this vs the c retaining rings. Except for small movements then I use a zip tie. In this case your C ring is around a post on the movement that keeps the spring from going toward the inside of the movement. Using the wire to do that ensures that you are only around the spring itself. Commenting as I go.
Thank you Mark. If I didn't put the retaining ring around the spring only then I did it wrong. I don't recall what I did it's been so long now but the wire is a good method also. Appreciate that.
@@time4clocks Hello Time4Clocks Thank you for your videos All so well done and packed with good information and techniques! May I ask do you happen to have any “junk” but intact Sekosha springs? I have a mechanism i an trying to get running but is missing the strike spring entirely Thank you so very much!
@@markcockle5038 Sorry I do not have one Mark. My journey into Japanese clocks is just beginning so I don't have any Japanese parts laying around yet. Once you measure the spring you might be able to find one on ebay or order a new one from a clock parts seller like Ronnell or Timesavers. I couldn't find one the exact size but the closest match should work. ShopGoodwill often has clocks in such poor condition that you might find a seikosha on the cheap. Just an idea though. Hope you get your clock going!
You asked a question about whether or not a spring is set or not. General rule of thumb is as long as the spring is 2-3 times bigger than the barrel or in this case not having a barrel then the spring is still good to go. In other words if you were taking it out of a barrel then you would put that barrel at the end of the uncoiled spring and then go across the width of the spring and if you can get the width of the spring 2-3 times across the width of the spring then the spring is not set. Again this is all that I learned while watching a VHS tape back in 1999.
Also wanted to mention that as soon as you took the pendulum leader wire out of the crutch assembly the movement started to tick. I have a video that shows in this type of clock and it doesnt matter whether it is a cuckoo clock or a clock like this where by opening the foot of the crutch allows the clock to tick back and forth. Most people are trained to close that foot. I disagree with that. I went back and forth with a guy who had been working professionally on clocks for over 30 years that posted a question about an OG clock and how it would tick with the pendulum off but when he added the pendulum within a few minutes the clock stopped. I told him to open the foot. He disagreed. Finally after going back and forth with him for awhile he took my suggestion and then came back and thanked me. My point here is that if the foot was opened more this clock would have ticked prior to you taking it apart.
I never close the foot. It's my understanding that it's the weight of the pendulum which keeps the escape gear from running uncontrollably such as what you saw. If I see one with a closed foot I will try to recall your comment here. Thank you!
У меня недавно были в ремонте похожие японские часы, только сделаны полностью из алюминия. Пришлось долго поработать, прежде чем я их восстановил. Если интересно, птшите
Hi I really like your ratchet solution. I have also made a copy of the Ollie Baker.winder however my let down keys don’t have the hex shaped body. What size ratchet spanner (wrench) fits your let down key hex? I am wondering if I can modify my coupling to allow the timesaver hex letdown key to fit my machine as their is a larger number of key sizes available.
Hello Hugh! It is a 7/16" deep socket that I used. Hope that helps. Tackling some of these problems in "do it yourself" style one has to be rather creative. :)
Very nice. I am very much interested like this machinery. You may please translate in hindi and secondly I want to purchse this type of abtique key wound wall clock. I am from India
घड़ी की मरम्मत में आपकी रुचि के लिए धन्यवाद। भारत में घड़ी की मरम्मत के कई स्थान होने चाहिए जो घड़ी मास्टर कुंजी बेचते हैं। दो चाबियाँ हैं जो घुमावदार आर्बर्स के अधिकांश आकारों को कवर करती हैं। मुझे खेद है कि मुझे नहीं पता कि मेरे वीडियो को किसी अन्य भाषा में कैसे अनुवाद किया जाए। आपको शांति और अच्छा स्वास्थ्य है, सर। 🙏
jam sy bunyi lonceng nya cepat sekali. seperti ada alat yang terlepas.bisa anda bantu untuk jam sy?! jam sy merk showa korea. terima kasih banyak sebelum nya 🙏🙏🙏
Saya sangat menyesal tetapi saya tidak mengerti apa yang Anda tanyakan. Saya belum pernah mengerjakan jam yang dibuat di Korea. Mungkin Anda akan terus melihat video perbaikan dan menemukan apa yang Anda cari.🙏
@@manoj4084 I'm very sorry but I do not sell parts or repair clocks belonging to other people. I only fix and show my own clocks and learn how to do this as an amateur. Thank you.
Very good information thank you for sharing...😊
My pleasure! Thanks for watching! 😁😁
I really love your channel, and seeing you work trough these clocks. I am an amateur "Horologist" myself and find your videos very helpful. BTW, "Be Thankful - Be Happy"! I LOVE it! Keep up the good work!
Why thank you Mr. Muggs! I appreciate you leaving such a nice comment! It's always nice to meet another clock tinkerer! 😸😸
My wife was watching this video with me, and she remarked: "He's never gonna put all the parts back in the right order." (LOL) But I know you will, otherwise this series would never be posted. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing, Ab.
The series is not yet finished Eric. I still have part 4 to do and every time I try to work on it something seems to come up. I am more of a nurse these days. Will eventually get it done to show your wife where everything goes! LOL
Very informative, following your steps in the video will be very helpful for someone attempting to dismantle a clock movement.
Thank you Ab.
Thank you Practical Fixes. I recall when I was young I took some things apart but didn't know how to put them back together. Hopefully, someone who may have tinkered with an old clock, and might not know how it goes back together might be helped by one of these videos. Have a great day! -Ab.
"He who fears climbing mountains, shall live forever between the ditches" . Abul Qassim Alshabi, a Tunisian poet(1909-1934)
What is the meaning of life, if we do not try, fail, try again and succeed.
You too Ab, have a good day.
I love your spring let down tool. I hope that you have a video on how you made it.
I have a video where I show the tool but not really in depth. It is pretty simple so I think anyone can adapt what they see and make their own. Sorry I missed this comment and the late reply.
Lots of good advice.
Thank you.
Always glad to help if possible!
The two rag system is a good idea. What the VHS tape taught me and you will see other videos with folks doing this is on the time side starting with the great wheel is subscribe on the wheel T1, next wheel T2 (subscribing on the same side that you see) that way when you put it back together you know that you are looking for those marks as you put it together. S1, S2, etc., on the strike side. So as you are working on other clocks and you are seeing these then you know what and why you are seeing this.
Some people mark them with - or I instead of T and S. -1, -II for time side and I 1, I 2 for strike side as scribing a S is sometimes difficult
BTW that is why the pros can put all the parts in one container because they have learned to mark them.
@@munnerlyn3 I know that marking the wheels is helpful but some schools of thought are against doing this. I haven't come to a decision regarding the practice myself.
@@munnerlyn3 I can see where marking them would be helpful.
I'm getting ready to put back together so I might regret not marking them! 😀
I bought a VHS tape back when I first started collecting and working on my own clocks. So I always use a wire for movements like this vs the c retaining rings. Except for small movements then I use a zip tie. In this case your C ring is around a post on the movement that keeps the spring from going toward the inside of the movement. Using the wire to do that ensures that you are only around the spring itself. Commenting as I go.
Thank you Mark. If I didn't put the retaining ring around the spring only then I did it wrong. I don't recall what I did it's been so long now but the wire is a good method also. Appreciate that.
I will not dare to do that...omg...prefer look others do that...👏👏👏👏👏 those who invented those mechanism were genious nothing less...
It amazes me as well at how these clocks were made and run! Thanks Fabien!
@@time4clocks Hello Time4Clocks Thank you for your videos All so well done and packed with good information and techniques! May I ask do you happen to have any “junk” but intact Sekosha springs? I have a mechanism i an trying to get running but is missing the strike spring entirely Thank you so very much!
@@markcockle5038 Sorry I do not have one Mark. My journey into Japanese clocks is just beginning so I don't have any Japanese parts laying around yet. Once you measure the spring you might be able to find one on ebay or order a new one from a clock parts seller like Ronnell or Timesavers. I couldn't find one the exact size but the closest match should work. ShopGoodwill often has clocks in such poor condition that you might find a seikosha on the cheap. Just an idea though. Hope you get your clock going!
@@time4clocks Thank you for your great suggestions and your time! I will give them a try - all the best for you and your channel!!!
You asked a question about whether or not a spring is set or not. General rule of thumb is as long as the spring is 2-3 times bigger than the barrel or in this case not having a barrel then the spring is still good to go. In other words if you were taking it out of a barrel then you would put that barrel at the end of the uncoiled spring and then go across the width of the spring and if you can get the width of the spring 2-3 times across the width of the spring then the spring is not set. Again this is all that I learned while watching a VHS tape back in 1999.
Thank you Mark. Appreciate that!
As well as you love Japanese clock, also I love foreign country clock
Very nice! There are so many nice clocks in the world.
Also wanted to mention that as soon as you took the pendulum leader wire out of the crutch assembly the movement started to tick. I have a video that shows in this type of clock and it doesnt matter whether it is a cuckoo clock or a clock like this where by opening the foot of the crutch allows the clock to tick back and forth. Most people are trained to close that foot. I disagree with that. I went back and forth with a guy who had been working professionally on clocks for over 30 years that posted a question about an OG clock and how it would tick with the pendulum off but when he added the pendulum within a few minutes the clock stopped. I told him to open the foot. He disagreed. Finally after going back and forth with him for awhile he took my suggestion and then came back and thanked me. My point here is that if the foot was opened more this clock would have ticked prior to you taking it apart.
I never close the foot. It's my understanding that it's the weight of the pendulum which keeps the escape gear from running uncontrollably such as what you saw. If I see one with a closed foot I will try to recall your comment here. Thank you!
У меня недавно были в ремонте похожие японские часы, только сделаны полностью из алюминия. Пришлось долго поработать, прежде чем я их восстановил. Если интересно, птшите
Спасибо! Я никогда не видел ни одного из них в алюминии!
Hi I really like your ratchet solution. I have also made a copy of the Ollie Baker.winder however my let down keys don’t have the hex shaped body. What size ratchet spanner (wrench) fits your let down key hex? I am wondering if I can modify my coupling to allow the timesaver hex letdown key to fit my machine as their is a larger number of key sizes available.
Hello Hugh! It is a 7/16" deep socket that I used. Hope that helps. Tackling some of these problems in "do it yourself" style one has to be rather creative. :)
Very nice. I am very much interested like this machinery. You may please translate in hindi and secondly I want to purchse this type of abtique key wound wall clock. I am from India
घड़ी की मरम्मत में आपकी रुचि के लिए धन्यवाद। भारत में घड़ी की मरम्मत के कई स्थान होने चाहिए जो घड़ी मास्टर कुंजी बेचते हैं। दो चाबियाँ हैं जो घुमावदार आर्बर्स के अधिकांश आकारों को कवर करती हैं। मुझे खेद है कि मुझे नहीं पता कि मेरे वीडियो को किसी अन्य भाषा में कैसे अनुवाद किया जाए। आपको शांति और अच्छा स्वास्थ्य है, सर। 🙏
What is the ageof this clock
About 93 years old. 🙏
jam sy bunyi lonceng nya cepat sekali. seperti ada alat yang terlepas.bisa anda bantu untuk jam sy?! jam sy merk showa korea. terima kasih banyak sebelum nya 🙏🙏🙏
Saya sangat menyesal tetapi saya tidak mengerti apa yang Anda tanyakan. Saya belum pernah mengerjakan jam yang dibuat di Korea. Mungkin Anda akan terus melihat video perbaikan dan menemukan apa yang Anda cari.🙏
I watched your session good but you are not responded my querry
Can u give a spare of keinzel chiming clock barrel please help me
@@manoj4084 I don't understand your question.
Sir I need a keinzel company Chiming clock Main spring barrel @@time4clocks
@@manoj4084 I'm very sorry but I do not sell parts or repair clocks belonging to other people. I only fix and show my own clocks and learn how to do this as an amateur. Thank you.