Awesome! I am a retired master jeweler. 23 years ago I studied clock repair during some down time between repairs. I have recently picked up an old clock that refuses to run. Not looking to re enter the market as a horologist, just intrigued by the tools and techniques and appreciate your skills and watching you work gives me confidence.
I just bought a Gilbert Mantle Clock. The seller said most of his Clocks have gone to the garbage as there is little interest in these old Clocks. I bought this one for $15. I took out the Movement and sprayed it down with Brake Kleen. Lubricated the pivots with synthetic Clock oil. It seems to be running good. I noticed one really worn pivot hole. It looks like I would need to spend a small fortune in tools to do the job. The drills to custom size the bushing hole in the plate as well as the hole in the bushing itself may be expensive? The Clock says Gilbert 1807 so the I was told it was made during or after the 1920's. Where do I buy these tiny drill bits and reamers? The most I could do it kill the Clock trying and who knows, I might be able to have success. A great instruction video. Thank you.
Break clean is not good. It will leave a residue on the clock and eat the lacquer. The tools can be bought from timesavers or merritts, they are not cheap. Good luck.
@@scotta9114 I sprayed (several times) a Mantle Clock movement made in 1887 (my grandparents') with brake cleaner and turned down the pressure on my air compressor to clean everything. The coil springs were wound tight and stuck together (in places) so I carefully released all tension without disassembling the whole movement. Springs got the cleaner too. Washed everything in HOT soapy water and quickly dried it with compressed air and then a gentle heat gun. Sprayed everything with PB Blaster to coat all of it with lubricant (removed excess best as possible) and used clock grease at every pivot. Had to play with the pendulum settings and now keeps time. Then I started on my (late) parents' Grandfather clock which had a broken (during transport, rookie movers) pendulum support spring for starters and had never been serviced since new (1984). Clocks like this seem to drift from perfect time .....some more than others but are fun to tinker with.....Both clocks have been running good for 90 days now and only stopped once when we left for 7 days to Hawaii.... got back last night....that's what triggered this comment. I'm a new construction plumbing contractor....work with large and small tools. Fun!
Excellent explanation. Others say file out the opposite direction as the wear and use the reamer but I didn't trust that method since what's not stopping the reamer from flying off in either direction. Haven't done any yet, as am just gathering the goodies
I sprayed (several times) a Mantle Clock movement made in 1887 (my grandparents') with brake cleaner and turned down the pressure on my air compressor to clean everything. The coil springs were wound tight and stuck together (in places) so I carefully released all tension without disassembling the whole movement. Springs got the cleaner too. Washed everything in HOT soapy water and quickly dried it with compressed air and then a gentle heat gun. Sprayed everything with PB Blaster to coat all of it with lubricant (removed excess best as possible) and used clock grease at every pivot. Had to play with the pendulum settings and now keeps time. Then I started on my (late) parents' Grandfather clock which had a broken (during transport, rookie movers) pendulum support spring for starters and had never been serviced since new (1984). Clocks like this seem to drift from perfect time .....some more than others but are fun to tinker with.....Both clocks have been running good for 90 days now and only stopped once when we left for 7 days to Hawaii.... got back last night....that's what triggered this comment. I'm a new construction plumbing contractor....work with large and small tools. Fun!
exitexcellent video!! from now sure is going to oi lpivot areas!!! Thanks for the great video!! some clock repair men all they want to do is replace the module! I believe all clocks can be fixed without replacing a module!!!!! George from California.
Chris, great video. I am actually going to try this, on an old clock first. I would love to see a video on reassembling a clock and adjusting it to get it to run correctly. Maybe a Hermle 141-070? :)
This is a good video to show the problem of clock design in making a bearing out of brass plate with a stainless steel pivot, even if you use lubricant. The solution flanged shielded SS ball bearings. Drill out the brass for a press fit then press in the bearing. Very small ball bearings of many types and sized are readily available. The shielded ball bearings once cleaned and lightly lubricated with low viscosity watch pivot lubricant will exhibit lower friction forces than a jewel bearing of the same size, while being better at thrust loads than a jewel, and they will last a long long time. If you really want to make a low friction clock works long lasting bearing solution, for at least the last ten years, has been the use of ball bearings. We have also seen advances in clock making (and watch making) in the use of 5 axis mill-turn CNC for either hobbing or cutting (milling) gear teeth in the case of clocks. The accuracy is rather incredible at times, depending on the machine and the machinist, down to 8 microns (8 one thousandths of a mm, which is 3 ten thousandths of an inch) precision. The mill turn CNC can put chamfers on the cuts and then Geneva stripe the gear face and provide an excellent final gear tooth finish, all on one machine with no operator intervention.
@@Chrisclockrepair what technique do you use to ream by hand straight, i usually look at the plate, try to get it to be a perfect ( T ) and turn it 90° keeping the T but sometimes it just cant be reamed straight by hand
This is a question of personal preference. I use a chamfering tool to create a small round that serves as an oil sink. However, some may argue that you should cut a new oil sink.
Thanks Chris for your awesome videos showing how to do things in baby steps for us newbies. I really enjoy clock repair as a hobby, but my problem is I'm dumb. I know enough to be dangeorus. My sister gave me an old wall pendulum clock with a basic Sessions movement...no chime...just clock. Assuming the writing inside the case is correct, it was last spoiled and cleaned in 1928...and it shows!. It is a filthy mess. It should be taken clean apart and done right, but I sonic cleaned the movement and oiled the pivots. I was hoping it would take off, but instead the pendulum verge (I think it is called that) began skipping across the escapement wheel. A suggestion on a forum said to tap the "dogbone" just a smidge. Maybe this would be a good video. How to fix a pendulum that skips across the escapement. Like this: ua-cam.com/video/9ztYL43H-JY/v-deo.html Except mine is like that with the pendulum on. It's pretty bad. It did not do that before cleaning and oiling, so even though I didn't break anything, I think I screwed something up.
If the pallets are skipping across the escape wheel teeth, you need more depthing. Is the bridge adjustable on the back? Usually has two screws. If so, loosen the screws enough so you can slide the bridge down just a bit. Retighten and try again. Take power off if you can before doing so.
@@Chrisclockrepair ua-cam.com/video/8EmY4We8mYs/v-deo.html I tapped the "dogbone" closer to the escapement and it is now ticking away. Actually, there are not many screws on it. Everything is riveted. There are four bolts with these odd-sized nuts (5.1 mm or 0.20 inches) holding the plates together plus a few screws here and there, but most of it is riveted. This makes me think it was a cheapo movement meant for throwaway. I don't know that for sure, though, maybe some were like that back in the day. Thanks very much for your channel and help.
EDIT: Unfortunately, it stopped after running w/o the pendulum for about 3 hours, and only runs about 10 minutes with it. I thought maybe I was onto something. It needs help. I really should take it apart and clean it right for starters. The pendulum looks like it wobbles some and that may be a suspension spring or something.
@@Chrisclockrepair Thank you. I have a circa 1886 Seth Thomas mantle clock I bought at a local thrift store. It was missing the windup key. Ordered it online. All pivot points are worn out. Everything else appears to be in fair condition. I was thinking about getting it refurbished. Would you be able to give me a rough estimate as to how much it would cost me to get this done? A ballpark figure would be ok.
@Chris clock repair Hey, Chris!!! I have quaestion. In case when I don't have a reamer,, can i simply use siightly bigger drill which touches the edge of the worn bushing side and drill it through on the drill-press?
It’s not ideal but can be done once you straighten the pivot hole. Otherwise your hole won’t be on center. Also it will be a bit large for the press fit, so you can burgeon the bushing by giving it a few taps with the ball peen hammer to enlargen the bushing a bit for a tight press fit
Hello Chris , do you repair arbor pivot? as one pivot is broken and I need to replace the pivot the gear is for old Junghas wall clock W277 and I'm in Canada , thanks
@@Chrisclockrepair in begginig of a video, the cleaning pivots sequence took much time and a viewer need to know what will happen after, it's the reason why i asked why you no use a brush to clean 😀, thanks for sharing.
what if a pivot hole needs rebushing but there is a copper cap pressed on that is not removable. You can only see one side, the other side is capped with a non removable cap.
Dear Chris, I have a modern grandfather clock (3 weight Westminster chimes, second hand) that stops running when the cable driven weights are in the top position. Any thoughts on why? I know I have at least one pivot that is worn.
@@Chrisclockrepair Dear Chris, no, when the weights are driven up the clock completely stops. Only when the weights are say, half-way down does the clock continue to run.
Chris, love the video on centering a worn pivot by hand. I would appreciate your opinion on something. I have an old english grandfather clock. It is chain driven (the chain links are very unusual...they are 'U' shaped with loops at the end for the adjacent 'U' shaped link to connect into. It is just a simple two weight clock with strike and time. I am having an issue with the clock sometimes running fast and sometimes running slow. I have adjusted the bob up and down using 1/4 turns at a time and at times I'll be out a minute or two in a day - turn it a 1/4 turn then suddenly its 10 min out in the other direction. I also noticed that there is significant play on the center arbor that supports the hands. Do you have any suggestions for me? is there something specific you think I could look at? The reason I watched your video is because I was contemplating it being the center pivots. Thoughts?
I would like to add a more detailed explanation.... I would appreciate your opinion on something. I have an old english(? - there are NO markings on the plate but it has a strike wheel vs a snail gear) grandfather clock. It is chain driven (the chain links are very unusual...they are 'U' shaped with loops at the end for the adjacent 'U' shaped link to connect into. It is just a simple two weight clock with strike and time. I am having an issue with the clock sometimes running fast and sometimes running slow. I have adjusted the bob up and down using 1/4 turns at a time and at times I'll be out a minute or two in a day - turn it a 1/4 turn then suddenly its 10 min out in the other direction. I also noticed that there is significant play on the center arbor that supports the hands. Do you have any suggestions for me? is there something specific you think I could look at? I understand that adjusting the pendulum up and down will speed up and slow down the clock. I have adjusted the height - over multiple days - all the way up and it was still to slow...then suddenly it was to fast...so I worked on lowering the bob and as it appeared to be zeroing in - it suddenly was to fast....again this is over multiple days. The hands seem to be fairly loose...could the weight of the hands be affecting how the clock is keeping time? Can I tighten the center wheel? Could the hands be slipping as they are approaching 12 or as they are descending from 12???? Thoughts?
@@joeychirico1623 Hi there. This is hard to diagnose without studying the movement; however, it is possible the hands can slip (if too loose), but more likely is that there is slipping on the clutch or there is a problem with the escapement. If the escapement is worn it may be missing teeth sometimes causing the clock to “go faster” how much time are we talking?
Hi Chris, from UK - just found your channel and subscribed. This approach, showing a practical, accessible format is really fantastic. So many (usually older people in the trade, similar age to me perhaps) seem to cloak these skills and bar keen and talented people to learn the craft. I have one (small) obstacle, the Conover book wont ship to UK via Clockmakers Newsletter, hard because the main audience is in U.S. I looked in British Library as well but no dice. Is there another publication you might suggest (on the same level i.e. clock repairing 101)...? Anyway thanks so much, I will now enjoy a YT feast learning from your videos. Oh and P.S., what tools might I buy to get started? I have a milling machine and small 1920's lathe so I can drill/press in bushes accurately...Thanks ,James
You need to explain your tools first as well as discussing the bushes. You also really skipped over some things. When you make videos, you need to ask, could a complete beginner do the job after watching? The answer is no. Problem with most of these videos is that they are made to be understood by someone that knows what they are doing.
Awesome! I am a retired master jeweler. 23 years ago I studied clock repair during some down time between repairs. I have recently picked up an old clock that refuses to run. Not looking to re enter the market as a horologist, just intrigued by the tools and techniques and appreciate your skills and watching you work gives me confidence.
Thats awesome. Thanks for the support.
Thanks for doing such an excellent video on pivot repair.
You're welcome. Thanks!
Just wanted to say Thank You for all of your videos.
Thanks!
I just bought a Gilbert Mantle Clock. The seller said most of his Clocks have gone to the garbage as there is little interest in these old Clocks. I bought this one for $15. I took out the Movement and sprayed it down with Brake Kleen. Lubricated the pivots with synthetic Clock oil. It seems to be running good. I noticed one really worn pivot hole. It looks like I would need to spend a small fortune in tools to do the job. The drills to custom size the bushing hole in the plate as well as the hole in the bushing itself may be expensive? The Clock says Gilbert 1807 so the I was told it was made during or after the 1920's. Where do I buy these tiny drill bits and reamers? The most I could do it kill the Clock trying and who knows, I might be able to have success. A great instruction video. Thank you.
Break clean is not good. It will leave a residue on the clock and eat the lacquer. The tools can be bought from timesavers or merritts, they are not cheap. Good luck.
@@Chrisclockrepair OK. Guess I won't try to replace the bushings.
@@scotta9114 I sprayed (several times) a Mantle Clock movement made in 1887 (my grandparents') with brake cleaner and turned down the pressure on my air compressor to clean everything. The coil springs were wound tight and stuck together (in places) so I carefully released all tension without disassembling the whole movement. Springs got the cleaner too. Washed everything in HOT soapy water and quickly dried it with compressed air and then a gentle heat gun. Sprayed everything with PB Blaster to coat all of it with lubricant (removed excess best as possible) and used clock grease at every pivot. Had to play with the pendulum settings and now keeps time. Then I started on my (late) parents' Grandfather clock which had a broken (during transport, rookie movers) pendulum support spring for starters and had never been serviced since new (1984). Clocks like this seem to drift from perfect time .....some more than others but are fun to tinker with.....Both clocks have been running good for 90 days now and only stopped once when we left for 7 days to Hawaii.... got back last night....that's what triggered this comment. I'm a new construction plumbing contractor....work with large and small tools. Fun!
Excellent explanation. Others say file out the opposite direction as the wear and use the reamer but I didn't trust that method since what's not stopping the reamer from flying off in either direction. Haven't done any yet, as am just gathering the goodies
I sprayed (several times) a Mantle Clock movement made in 1887 (my grandparents') with brake cleaner and turned down the pressure on my air compressor to clean everything. The coil springs were wound tight and stuck together (in places) so I carefully released all tension without disassembling the whole movement. Springs got the cleaner too. Washed everything in HOT soapy water and quickly dried it with compressed air and then a gentle heat gun. Sprayed everything with PB Blaster to coat all of it with lubricant (removed excess best as possible) and used clock grease at every pivot. Had to play with the pendulum settings and now keeps time. Then I started on my (late) parents' Grandfather clock which had a broken (during transport, rookie movers) pendulum support spring for starters and had never been serviced since new (1984). Clocks like this seem to drift from perfect time .....some more than others but are fun to tinker with.....Both clocks have been running good for 90 days now and only stopped once when we left for 7 days to Hawaii.... got back last night....that's what triggered this comment. I'm a new construction plumbing contractor....work with large and small tools. Fun!
exitexcellent video!! from now sure is going to oi lpivot areas!!! Thanks for the great video!! some clock repair men all they want to do is replace the module! I believe all clocks can be fixed without replacing a module!!!!!
George from California.
Thank you so much. Yes regular cleaning and oiling will increase longevity.
Thanks Chris, have a lot of clock books and bought this one too. I have other books by Conover, clear and concise author.
Agreed.
Chris, great video. I am actually going to try this, on an old clock first. I would love to see a video on reassembling a clock and adjusting it to get it to run correctly. Maybe a Hermle 141-070? :)
This is a good video to show the problem of clock design in making a bearing out of brass plate with a stainless steel pivot, even if you use lubricant. The solution flanged shielded SS ball bearings. Drill out the brass for a press fit then press in the bearing. Very small ball bearings of many types and sized are readily available. The shielded ball bearings once cleaned and lightly lubricated with low viscosity watch pivot lubricant will exhibit lower friction forces than a jewel bearing of the same size, while being better at thrust loads than a jewel, and they will last a long long time.
If you really want to make a low friction clock works long lasting bearing solution, for at least the last ten years, has been the use of ball bearings. We have also seen advances in clock making (and watch making) in the use of 5 axis mill-turn CNC for either hobbing or cutting (milling) gear teeth in the case of clocks. The accuracy is rather incredible at times, depending on the machine and the machinist, down to 8 microns (8 one thousandths of a mm, which is 3 ten thousandths of an inch) precision. The mill turn CNC can put chamfers on the cuts and then Geneva stripe the gear face and provide an excellent final gear tooth finish, all on one machine with no operator intervention.
I personally don't use the bearings, but there are those who do.
Great Video ! Thank you
Good job
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thanks for this very useful video.
Great work 😀
Thank you 😀
@@Chrisclockrepair what technique do you use to ream by hand straight, i usually look at the plate, try to get it to be a perfect ( T ) and turn it 90° keeping the T but sometimes it just cant be reamed straight by hand
@@rccl4487 it just takes practice, what you describe is a common practice.
Where do you get stock that you use for the new bushing? And where do you get the reamer tools?
Timesavers.com
thanks for sharing this! Do you have to cut a new oil sink?
This is a question of personal preference. I use a chamfering tool to create a small round that serves as an oil sink. However, some may argue that you should cut a new oil sink.
I have build a printed circuit cnc machine, I think with this I can bus a clock very easy by scan the plate and mill it.
Nice.
Thanks Chris for your awesome videos showing how to do things in baby steps for us newbies. I really enjoy clock repair as a hobby, but my problem is I'm dumb. I know enough to be dangeorus. My sister gave me an old wall pendulum clock with a basic Sessions movement...no chime...just clock. Assuming the writing inside the case is correct, it was last spoiled and cleaned in 1928...and it shows!. It is a filthy mess. It should be taken clean apart and done right, but I sonic cleaned the movement and oiled the pivots.
I was hoping it would take off, but instead the pendulum verge (I think it is called that) began skipping across the escapement wheel.
A suggestion on a forum said to tap the "dogbone" just a smidge.
Maybe this would be a good video. How to fix a pendulum that skips across the escapement. Like this:
ua-cam.com/video/9ztYL43H-JY/v-deo.html
Except mine is like that with the pendulum on. It's pretty bad. It did not do that before cleaning and oiling, so even though I didn't break anything, I think I screwed something up.
If the pallets are skipping across the escape wheel teeth, you need more depthing. Is the bridge adjustable on the back? Usually has two screws. If so, loosen the screws enough so you can slide the bridge down just a bit. Retighten and try again. Take power off if you can before doing so.
@@Chrisclockrepair ua-cam.com/video/8EmY4We8mYs/v-deo.html
I tapped the "dogbone" closer to the escapement and it is now ticking away. Actually, there are not many screws on it. Everything is riveted. There are four bolts with these odd-sized nuts (5.1 mm or 0.20 inches) holding the plates together plus a few screws here and there, but most of it is riveted. This makes me think it was a cheapo movement meant for throwaway. I don't know that for sure, though, maybe some were like that back in the day.
Thanks very much for your channel and help.
@@wildernessofzinn17 glad it worked our!
EDIT: Unfortunately, it stopped after running w/o the pendulum for about 3 hours, and only runs about 10 minutes with it. I thought maybe I was onto something. It needs help. I really should take it apart and clean it right for starters.
The pendulum looks like it wobbles some and that may be a suspension spring or something.
@@Chrisclockrepair I have also try to adjust this, what is the best adjustent, where to start?
Years ago I did it that way but then I bought a Bergeon 6200 bushing machine and it cut the time way down
Nice!
do both front and back plates always wear equally and in the same direction?
Would it be fine to use an air can to blow out dirt debris from these pivot holes?
I use a contact cleaner spray. And use a qtip to catch the dirt
@@Chrisclockrepair Thank you. I have a circa 1886 Seth Thomas mantle clock I bought at a local thrift store. It was missing the windup key. Ordered it online. All pivot points are worn out. Everything else appears to be in fair condition. I was thinking about getting it refurbished. Would you be able to give me a rough estimate as to how much it would cost me to get this done? A ballpark figure would be ok.
@@EddieLeal 350 to 450 depending on style of movement
@Chris clock repair Hey, Chris!!! I have quaestion. In case when I don't have a reamer,, can i simply use siightly bigger drill which touches the edge of the worn bushing side and drill it through on the drill-press?
It’s not ideal but can be done once you straighten the pivot hole. Otherwise your hole won’t be on center. Also it will be a bit large for the press fit, so you can burgeon the bushing by giving it a few taps with the ball peen hammer to enlargen the bushing a bit for a tight press fit
@@Chrisclockrepair Thank you, Chriss!! :D
Is this ultimately removing material or pushing it from one place to another?
Removing material
Hello Chris , do you repair arbor pivot? as one pivot is broken and I need to replace the pivot the gear is for old Junghas wall clock W277 and I'm in Canada
, thanks
I can repair pivots, send me an email with a photo of the wheel and arbor
Just use a tapered reamer an clamp a strip of hardened tool steel at the extent of the wear, quicker, easier an more precice
Why you no use brush to clean ?
Because it’s not necessary.
@@Chrisclockrepair in begginig of a video, the cleaning pivots sequence took much time and a viewer need to know what will happen after, it's the reason why i asked why you no use a brush to clean 😀, thanks for sharing.
Can we just buy a new backplate, available as aftermarket for example? Would save hours of labor time.
No, but you can buy an entire movement
Bon jour je me demande si tu m´envoyer une pièce d'horloge. Merci
có thể đưa vòng bi vào thay thế ống lót được không , để tăng tuổi thọ của đồng hồ
Thank you.
what if a pivot hole needs rebushing but there is a copper cap pressed on that is not removable. You can only see one side, the other side is capped with a non removable cap.
What kind of clock is it?
Dear Chris, I have a modern grandfather clock (3 weight Westminster chimes, second hand) that stops running when the cable driven weights are in the top position. Any thoughts on why? I know I have at least one pivot that is worn.
Does it drive otherwise?
@@Chrisclockrepair Dear Chris, no, when the weights are driven up the clock completely stops. Only when the weights are say, half-way down does the clock continue to run.
Hi, will the centring method works for wristwatches as well?
I am not familiar with watches.
Chris, love the video on centering a worn pivot by hand. I would appreciate your opinion on something. I have an old english grandfather clock. It is chain driven (the chain links are very unusual...they are 'U' shaped with loops at the end for the adjacent 'U' shaped link to connect into. It is just a simple two weight clock with strike and time. I am having an issue with the clock sometimes running fast and sometimes running slow. I have adjusted the bob up and down using 1/4 turns at a time and at times I'll be out a minute or two in a day - turn it a 1/4 turn then suddenly its 10 min out in the other direction. I also noticed that there is significant play on the center arbor that supports the hands. Do you have any suggestions for me? is there something specific you think I could look at? The reason I watched your video is because I was contemplating it being the center pivots. Thoughts?
I would like to add a more detailed explanation.... I would appreciate your opinion on something. I have an old english(? - there are NO markings on the plate but it has a strike wheel vs a snail gear) grandfather clock. It is chain driven (the chain links are very unusual...they are 'U' shaped with loops at the end for the adjacent 'U' shaped link to connect into. It is just a simple two weight clock with strike and time. I am having an issue with the clock sometimes running fast and sometimes running slow. I have adjusted the bob up and down using 1/4 turns at a time and at times I'll be out a minute or two in a day - turn it a 1/4 turn then suddenly its 10 min out in the other direction. I also noticed that there is significant play on the center arbor that supports the hands. Do you have any suggestions for me? is there something specific you think I could look at? I understand that adjusting the pendulum up and down will speed up and slow down the clock. I have adjusted the height - over multiple days - all the way up and it was still to slow...then suddenly it was to fast...so I worked on lowering the bob and as it appeared to be zeroing in - it suddenly was to fast....again this is over multiple days. The hands seem to be fairly loose...could the weight of the hands be affecting how the clock is keeping time? Can I tighten the center wheel? Could the hands be slipping as they are approaching 12 or as they are descending from 12???? Thoughts?
@@joeychirico1623 Hi there. This is hard to diagnose without studying the movement; however, it is possible the hands can slip (if too loose), but more likely is that there is slipping on the clutch or there is a problem with the escapement. If the escapement is worn it may be missing teeth sometimes causing the clock to “go faster” how much time are we talking?
Does this method work if the hole is worn into a slot well past the oil sink?
Yes. However it may prove more difficult finding the center. But it can be done
Bergeon is the way to go
Amen!
Hi Chris, from UK - just found your channel and subscribed. This approach, showing a practical, accessible format is really fantastic. So many (usually older people in the trade, similar age to me perhaps) seem to cloak these skills and bar keen and talented people to learn the craft. I have one (small) obstacle, the Conover book wont ship to UK via Clockmakers Newsletter, hard because the main audience is in U.S. I looked in British Library as well but no dice. Is there another publication you might suggest (on the same level i.e. clock repairing 101)...? Anyway thanks so much, I will now enjoy a YT feast learning from your videos. Oh and P.S., what tools might I buy to get started? I have a milling machine and small 1920's lathe so I can drill/press in bushes accurately...Thanks ,James
You can buy the book on amazon. Does that ship to uk?
wow
Thank you.
Welcome to my job.
Yessir.
Перевести
Okay!
Don’t eat while your talking.
You need to explain your tools first as well as discussing the bushes. You also really skipped over some things. When you make videos, you need to ask, could a complete beginner do the job after watching? The answer is no. Problem with most of these videos is that they are made to be understood by someone that knows what they are doing.
Thanks for the feedback. I’m continually seeking to improve
I don’t see any of your clock repair videos. Please post one so we can see how it should be done.
@greatlambrini8722 Perhaps the video is not meant for the complete beginner? Hence, the reference to the books by Mr. Conover.
If you are so smart, you can make a better video...if not, please keep quiet.