Testing ECM Variable Speed Fan Motor, Make Your Own Tester!
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2018
- In this HVACR Troubleshooting Video, I go over how to make your own testing connector for ECM 2.3 Variable Speed Blower Motors. I show which wires in the plug send 24v and which ones are common and I show a bench test of the fan motor running using the Genteq TecMate Pro as well as the spare connector. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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I finally bought a Genteq one, opened it, and proved it has capacitor and diode inside, make pin #15 different from what in this video. In some motors Genteq tester works but this direct wire method doesn't. But still you are the best, thanks for making all these videos.
I recovered the blower motor from a furnace that rusted out early due to installation issues. The blower is fine. This video showed me how to wire it up and use as the fan for my shop dust filter. Practical advice and knowledge was shared in this video. Many thanks!
So it runs constantly without issues?
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me tremendously on my last job. Got the TechMate ordered, but it’s gonna take a few days to get here. I was able to go ahead and test the motor thanks to you!👍
Thanks guitarhvac!
Just would like to give you a big thanks for all you've done. Much appreciated.
Thank you so much Michael!!! I appreciate it!
You are an awesome tech!! I’ve learned more from you watching these vids than I ever thought possible. Thanks man
Wow, thanks!
I haven't used my techmate for a long time. Good vid.
Thank you for sharing your expertise. Well done
Thanks Moises!
Oh man. Thank you !!!! Excellent content
Thanks again Craig!!!! great video!
Thanks Nick!
all practical videos for the DIYer ...
Awesome video bro. I lost mine and was not buying one. Just got all the parts together minus the x13 adapter. Saw that and light bulb went off lol. I added a 3 amp popper to top of my box with a toggle in middle that I can separate it from the tester to just a popper for finding shorts
Sweet, great job Jeremy!
Very easy to follow along. Thanks. Thanks much
Glad it was helpful!
Good explanations thanks for the video
Appreciate your videos
Thanks Tank!
Thank You
Thanks Mason!
The next time I go and deal with a VS motor I’ll be sure to watch your video again to help me diagnose it !
Thanks Mason, glad you enjoyed it!
acservicetech Thank You for posting and sharing
acservicetech well what you know I dealt with exact same motor yesterday in a Coleman furnace and was just wondering during the test if the motor is supposed to rev up and down ? I used a 16 pin connector and a transformer !
Thanks
This is the 3rd wiring method I have seen ;-) I have tired 4 wires, and 2 wires method, both fine so far. If the Tecmate tools can test heating, cooling with different speed, then it worth to buy.
Yes thanks, I have this linked at amazon..com/shop/acservicetech thanks Gerry!
I have made this tool like yours. Then motor run noisier than my 2-wire method. I read amp with yours way, 1.6A, and 2-wire, 0.8A. So I guess yours is cooling mode, and 2-wire is fan-on mode.
I actually made this with the same pins powered as the genteq tool does. I figured that they would know best for their motor, thanks!
Sweet. Thanks priceless🎄🎁
Thanks Joe!
Thank you!!👍👍👍
Glad to help David!
Great video 💯💯💯💯💯
Good tips
Thanks Kenny!
Nice just purchased tech mate pro!
Sweet!
My .fan controller failed while we were away and the compressor ran fruitlessly cos the fan stopped, wasted $100 of electricity plus wear on compressor. This on a $5800 new heat pump April 2016.
The 30 yr old fan unit it replaced was still going strong.
Great article though. Thank you for the series.
Yeah unfortunately efficiency and manufacturers wanting to sell their parts only seems to beat out the older reliable parts that we all had in our trucks, not good as the cost for replacement will eventually be more than the savings.
Thank you for posting. Does the techmate pro run the motor at full speed or low speed? I have this motor ecm combo but the motor isnt rampramping up to full speed. Its "stuck" on low. It attempts to ramp up but fails and gets stuck on low. Any idea? I ohm'd out all 3 motor windings and they are good withing around the same readings. I removed the ecm and checked the thermistor with heat and a ice cube. My values change and the thermistor is good. The original problem i had was grinding noise. I thought bearings. But was wrong. The permanent magnets of the motor stator shaft had seperated. I high heat epoxy glued the magnets on. And here i am now stuck on low and not ramping up to full/hi 100% speed. Any ideas i greatly appreciated. Do i need to buy from Trane or is there a aftermarket plug and play motor and ecm i can use. Thank you!
On the 3.0 motor, whats side is the the two wires that need 24 volts?
Not to discredit this video, I’m sure it’s good information, but some reason the homemade tester didn’t work on my motor, and so it only seems logical that the TechMate Pro would have been a waste of $119 as well (for my particular motor or unit anyway ). The motor module says ECM 2.3 but obviously the model number of the motor can make a difference ... at least if you have the same model number as mine ... which is 5SME39SL 0772. And the model number of the Goodman unit it came out of is GMV80704BX. Its obviously wired differently since the motor did not come on when I bypassed the control board and wired the 24 volts as shown in this video....so at first I thought either the motor , or the motor module was bad. So I checked the resistance between all three wire leads going to the windings and got 4.9 ohms for all 3 readings. So then checked for continuity between each of these 3 wires to the motor frame and got no continuity so I knew it wasn’t “grounded out” ...so I thought the motor module must be bad. So I tried to find a new one, And as far as I can tell nobody sells this except for Goodman and you cannot buy just the module you have to buy the motor and the module. And it was gonna cost me about $600 with tax . And I was only going to get that good of a deal because I have a friend in the parts business who buys tons of stuff from Goodman.. it’s normally over $800.Then I remembered I HAD to buy an AC protection plan several years ago for like $12 or $14 a month from my power company whether I wanted it for not. And luckily I remembered because conveniently for them they don’t itemize it on the bill in hopes that you’ll forget and never use it!!! But then I saw another video that said it could possibly just be a problem with the batteries being low in your thermostat even if it doesn’t say batteries are low...Depending on if your thermostat has a “common” wire or not ...So I changed the batteries and everything is working fine now! Cool air again !!! Hope this helps someone!
Oh one other thing, This particular unit has a coil which feeds the motor (120v) that looks like a transformer but with only 2 wires that they call an inductor , I left that in the circuit when bypassing the control board to check the motor ... has something to do with opposing changes in current/amperage so it seemed important to leave it in the circuit. I used to work on air conditioners 20 years ago but never saw anything like that ... or ECM MOTORS
Original symptoms were the blower motor was just barely turning and going off and on , making a low rumbling noise.… The condenser was working fine.
nice video - is there a simple way to control the speed and direction? (with constant torque?) Thanks Doug
When you power it is it running at full power?
Thanks!
Thank you so much! Very helpful video. Once when I’ve plug brand new motor to test (I wasn’t sure the problem was with motor or bord) the shaft was doesn’t start spinning. I was confused. Then I thought it’s can’t start without any resistance(without blower wheel). I’ve I squeezed shaft into a fist, and it was starting to spin.
The shaft may have been stuck possibly, thanks!
Thanks! So these are 24v inputs and there are some that accept a DC input up to 9volts. How is the coil temp maintained above freezing if the blower is ramped down for more of a latent load? I’m guessing there are sensors monitoring coil temp?
Thanks
Hello Craig, Great Videos! I have a lennox Elite series with Variable speed I took the blower from, bench tested with Supco ECM Pro works fine. I made 2 ecm testers from your video with the wire harness, verified all wires and voltages present at terminals exactly as the Supco are correct, motor does not work with hand made one and I can't figure out why. 3 questions please...
1. why is there a choke on the 120 volt in series with line voltage hot side?
2. why are there 2 Zener diodes opposing each other on the common 24 volt wire?
3. why motor will not work with both my homemade testers? one has zener diodes, one without.
Thanks!!!!
Cool. Make please video how to convert ESM to PCS motor. How to bypass the bord. What additional relay needs to add(contactor). And make please a wiring diagram. With your explanation it will be cool video.
Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see Tapch MC!
I can't seem to find your same video you mention that shows how to troubleshoot without the tecmate pro??? can you link please?
The transformer on my furnace is outputting 28vac to the control board and motor. Is this normal, or should I replace it?
Excellent video + links. If you could add a link to purchase the 16-pin connector, that would great. Thank you again for the great content.
No answer yet? Trying to find the speed prins too :)
I understand I can use 18 VDC or 24 VAC as signal wires. Is that right?. I have a new EON motor that's not working. Will this work with that too. (It's 16pin)
Hi.. same 16 pins connections but I need to make it on high/medium speed.. Could you help me out? Thanks in advance..
Have you done a video testing a pressure switch with the EM151 single port monometer?
Here is the link to the pressure switch testing playlist. There are 10 videos on it there, thanks- ua-cam.com/video/XKAyznghlro/v-deo.html
So all the pins that are H(hot) need to be energized with 24v and all the C(commons) need to be with Common otherwise it won’t work correctly?
I thought that ECM 24 volt speed control voltages were DC. I see you energizing the speed terminals directly off of the 24v XFMR which is AC. Please explain.
This was good information, but how could you utilize the variable speed.
I hooked up the power and the low voltage plugs exactially like you showed and the motor didn`t start . guess the electronics are bad in the end bell . maybe the motor was bad and the service man also discovered the condenser was bad so the heat pump was scrap .
Sounds like the bell module is bad, thanks
Have you ever come across an ECM motor that sounds like a jet engine winding up? Sounds normal at low speeds.
From 2007 ECM Goodman Furnace 97 efficient. Was working fine then changed recently. No ductwork and air flow issues.
GE ECM Motors ECM 2.3 DG03 Controller. ROT CCW Amp 9.6/6.8 RPM 1050 Blower Motor.
Controller causing this noise or motor itself? Could it be the main board sending voltage to the controller?
Where can i get a speed controller for this exact motor ?
Will this test method work exactly the same for an Eon ECM motor since they are compatible with the ECM 2.3? If not can you tell us how to test that ECM motor? Thanks for this video. It answered a lot of my questions since I just had an "expensive" 2.3 motor go out and replaced.
Following
Thank you that's a good idea!! But I have a question, if we use the jumper like that, can that cause the motor to burn out if we use it for a permanent solution?
This should not be used as a permanent solution as this is just for testing. The board will send signal voltages for different speeds to the control module of the blower motor and you need that communication for speed control. The TecMate Pro also should not be used as a permanent solution, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel hello I got a problem with my a/c unit and not sure if it's the blower motor that is bad or the board ...here is what it does ..turns on all works good but after 25 or 30 min of working the blower motor stops working but unit is still on ...blower motor is the variable speed with module I'm sure it's same thing like the one on your this video please any help is appreciate it ..thanks in advance
How would you test the speeds for g w1 and y1
Sir how many hp moter is in this blower
we have the same model uei clamp meter bro!
Thanks Xiao!
@@acservicetechchannel g
Great presentation sir as always. What's your opinion on variable speed Induced Draft motors? I replaced a smoked Carrier variable speed ID motor a while back that was quite expensive. I don't see the advantage of using such an expensive part for this application.
Funny enough, I just called for a quote a day ago and said, this "model doesn't have a variable speed inducer on it correct?" Then I said good, I am getting tired of replacing them right outside of the warranty period. I don't think they are worth it. Variable speed or X13 is different, thanks
Got a question. My hvac ac blower is a very simple setup {just AC no furnace) Very small control board with a 8 switch setting.
I bought a new motor but the motor doesn't consistently run when I turn it on. It goes for a couple of seconds and stop for a couple of seconds and continues doing that. I got a new board, and new Transformer and it still doing the same thing.
Any ideas
I don't know if you are referring to a variable speed or just an ecm such as the x-13 but if you are getting the right voltage from the board then it sounds like the motor module is bad, thanks
Question GE ECM 2.3 fan blower motor controller. The thermistor looks of but the coil on the yoke has been overheated to the point that there is a bunch of little carbon flakes around the yoke. Burnt thermistor? Regards, Bo
hi, my Amana furnace has this same motor. the motor just swings back and forth but will not rotate. i am thinking might be the endbell even though it looks very clean with no burnt marks. but the price is too expensive. can i replace this motor with a psc with same ratings? will the furnace control board be compatible? thank you.
If you wire in a PSC motor it should only be to get you by for a while. As you’d have to wire it to 240v. You’d have no way of turning the blower off, it would run nonstop. The ECM motors are turned off and on from the 24v signal. PSC motors are turned off and on from a circuit board with the direct 240v.
Could you please show ECM 3.0 2-pin wiring detail? The other documents mention they are 10vDC. Confusing... Thanks.
Got the answer myself. ua-cam.com/video/locNv9WsanA/v-deo.html
Thanks Gerry, glad you found out!
Would like to see a video explaining why low batteries in thermostat will keep blower motor from running but won’t effect operation of condenser fan or compressor ... just seems like poor engineering... didn’t used to have that problem back before thermostats had batteries ... did we? Please! Thanks
👍
I took a ECM 2.3 blower out of a heat pump with a bad water cooled condenser that was given to me for salvage.Can you actually run the blower this way? if you wanted to use it for a fan? I know you`d have to restrict the air some so the motor isn`t overloaded using the blower out of the machine.
The motor is already set for a specific torque value but I don't know at what percentage air speed this would lock the motor at, thanks!
Very interesting. My HVAC guy replaced the external controller board - he says he was measuring odd voltages from the output pins. But the new external controller board did not get the blower running again. If we do what is done in the video and the motor runs, this would mean that the internal motor circuit board is bad, right? If that's the case, then there's no fix but to replace the entire motor (containing a new internal controller board)? That's big bucks, because the motors have programming from the specific hvac manufacturer (York, in my case), so we have no choice but to buy from the hvac manufacturer!
If it was not the board then it is likely the module on the motor. You can easily check the motor itself to see if its good but yes the module by itself is usually almost as much as the whole new motor and module, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel I've read that if you can source the motor from a 3rd party, the ECM can be configured to the manufacturer spec by updating the firmware with a computer. You have to get somehow get the firmware. Do you have a video on how to do this? I think your viewers would be very interested in this! It would be a required step in order to source the part from a 3rd party and bypass paying the exorbitant jacked up prices being charged for these motors by the furnace manufacturer so you can get the motor with the furnace manufacturer ECM programming. Thanks again for the well made videos!
@@cosmolee7902 I want to program mine for carrier did you ever figure out a way?
From another video I found that it was the board on the motor module that was the problem. But luckily it was something that was easily replaceable - a thermistor, aka "inrush current limiter", had gone bad. This seems to be a very common problem with these ECM motors. It's actually quite scandalous, because it's a known issue, but York wants to charge $1300 for a new motor. But the thermistor cost me all of $2.25 to source. It's not the tech's fault - York isn't telling the techs that these thermistors are frequent failure points. It seems like a great revenue stream for them, though.
I didn't wind up using them, but there is a company in NJ that provides a service to repair such motors for much less than buying replacements. I don't remember the name, but maybe you can find them with a search.
@@cosmolee7902 thank you I'll do some checking mine burnt up at the connector from motor to the ecm
I have an x13 variable after it does its normal run everything goes off but then fan turns back on for 2 to 3 seconds it does it like 4 to 8 times at a time why
Any idea what would cause one of these motors to run but sometimes have fluctuations in speed? It will be running fine then you can hear it dip and speed back up, after a couple of these sequences the airflow reduces enough to trip the temperature limit switch. The furnace control board has a LED that flashes, indicating fan speed, and it does dip and recover in conjunction with the actual blower speed; it tends to act up at about 2/3 - 3/4 of maximum speed.
Maybe your thermostat is a power stealing type and messing with furnace
We have many issues with Lennox malfunctions due to Nest stat, they are not reliably compatible
I saw myself firsthand that the nest stole power from the Lennox board causing it to drop the call from the cool mode and then energized the fan pin on the board this caused the cooling on a single stage system to go from 22° split to 28° split
This may cause issues with coil freezing up or refrigerant issues and compressor
Swapped out the stat and the equipment ran fine
@@ardentmonk2 I don't think so, the furnace acts exactly the same even if I have the thermostat disconnected and just jumper it with a call for heat.
If the ecm is bad and you plug in the tech master will it still run if the motor is good?
If the module is bad, then the tec mate pro will not be able to turn the motor on, thanks!
I need to repair a 2.3 ECM on a Rheem air handler. The motor checks out good (equal resistance between phases and no grounds). The circuit board shows burnt areas so the module needs replacing. I see surplus 2.3 modules online, but how to get one of those modules programmed to match the Rheem air handler?
That is exactly the problem, you need to know the model number of the unit the module cam out of in reference to those surplus ones or you would go to the distributor for Rheem in your area to get the new module, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel The literature says the EON is a drop-in replacement for the ECM 2.3. If I get a new eon does it have to have special programming to work?
Can this 2.3 ECM motor be re-purposed? I mean how do you use it for say a DIY power tool. Is there a way to jumper the 24 VDC pins so that the motor can run on the 110 VAC? I have a spare motor from an old furnace and want to build a 12" disk sander? Thanks
These motors are not like a psc motor, they are not going to handle an amperage spike well such as internal module parts going bad, thanks
Thanks, so I guess that's a no? Well I have to look for a psc motor for this purpose?
So the pins on the top are considered the hot 24s, and the bottom the commons?.....
Yeah it doesn't make any difference, just like the two wires on the ecm 3.0 model, thanks
Is this a variable speed motor? If so, how does one vary the speed? Is there another pin/wire used for this?
It varies speed according to 24vac inputs on the 16 pin in this case. Each input has a preprogrammed cfm that the ecm tries to maintain. Usually you have separate speeds for y1, y2, w1, w2, g only, and a reduction for a dehum input. Other models have a pulse train control and some are communicating. This type is very common and are easy to interface, usually to two stage thermostats and humistats at 24vac. They also ramp up to speed and down, basically a soft start. They attempt to maintain a defined cfm over a range of static pressures which is the most elaborate algorithm since all they have is rpm and current as internal inputs.
How can you test the ECM inducer motors?
For the variable speed inducer motors, you would have to follow the manufacturers service instructions for each particular unit, thanks
So I have a question . I have the tester and when I plugged in the motor did not come on. So now is the motor it self bad or is the module bad . Can I hook up 240v right to the motor to see if it bad or not . Thank you .
You would just test the motor resistance values. Since it is a 3 phase motor each pair should read the same resistance and read each wire to ground. You should read O.L for resistance to ground. Usually the module is just bad but check the resistance and for free spinning in reference to the bearings, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thank you I will try that on Monday . Thank you for your videos
Hi there AC service Tech! I need some clarity on a set up we run here at my facility. We have hundreds of 2.3 genteq motors running on envirotec PWM boards. Im finding almost 50% of these motors are oscillating between hi and low speeds almost sound like over static pressure in the vents they supply (no such reason tho as all vents are actuated open full).
That said...by doing a test with the 16 pin 2 wire connection that will only tell me the motor is good at full signal correct?
To add to my questions background, im finding a lot of these oscillating motors to have G3 PWM boards with un responsive potentiometers on them. And if i use the analog input instead, i have no success either. Is this a chicken and the egg scenario...did the board die or did a bad component in the motor cause the death of the board.
(Are you familiar with the envirotec G3 pwm boards?)
Sorry if i rambled on. Thanks a lot man. BC Canada. 👍🏼😎👍🏼
Hey Ray, sorry I didn't get back with you sooner. I haven't had experience with that particular board. www.enviro-tec.com/pdf/iom/ENVIRO-TEC_FanCoilECMotor_IOM.pdf - Is this the board you are talking about? This has a 3.0 setup which would need the adapter to get to the 16 pin so maybe this is not the board. Have you contacted envirotec yet? Are they working fine again after the board replacement? Have you been replacing motors as well?
If you have common returns on two ecms they can fight each other as each attempts to maintain its cfm. In that is the case, the reurns must be separated.
will this work to use an ecm 2.3 motor as a shop fan?
Not recommended. Better buy a X13 ecm motor.
Hello, so what about a 460v single phase. ... the problem I had today was that the blower motor is set to high speed. The blower spins like if it was on low fan. I removed the top part of motor get to the 3 pin plug to read the windings, I tried reading the ohms but they jump up and down from 16.2 to 20.9 all crazy... have u ever had this issue.
If you are just reading the motor by itself then it sounds like the rotor may have been spinning just slightly throwing off the readings or the multimeter may not be in good shape, thanks
The motor was not spinning, I thought the voltmeter was bad. I used a 5 ohms resistor and my meter was working fine giving me a solid number.
@@franciscomunoz6918 Im an electrician whos been dealing daily with 2.3 genteq motors for over 3 yrs now. (Great videos btw👍🏼) I find sometimes the windings have intermittent shorts. Perhaps right from the factory. If you use a drill and spin the rotor while looking at the windings youll see the hot spots with a thermal camera.
Is there any way to bench test a 2.5 ecm without any special equipment?
ua-cam.com/video/-2jg7egZQJ4/v-deo.html
Where do you find 16 connector or how do you know hot and how do you know C ?
Mike, you can get a Tecmate Pro tester or if you replace a unit with a 16 pin wire connector, it will have two sides for you to make two testers with. In the video, I showed the 24v hot and common locations, thanks!
Buenos días si de esa forma el motor fan no arranca que estaría pasando ?
busca otros videos, hay una cosa redonda adentro que siempre se quema/,
I'm making my own controller for this motor and would like to be able to run it at various speeds. Is there any resource for which pins in the 16 pin connector signal what motor speed requests?
My Variable Speed motor started to run on high only. What do you suspect would cause this?
Maybe it is getting a signal from your board telling it to run in high speed?
Thanks for the reply. I figured it would be doing that if it either was getting a signal or the module was "stuck" in some way. Any idea what would cause this? Its back to running normally now (just rained and cloudy), but most of the day when it was sunny the thermostat would call for cooling, the fan would just cycle right to HIGH.
Do you have a two speed compressor? What version motor and module do you have?
AC Service Tech LLC Not sure if the compressor is a 2 stage or not. The Air Handler is a Trane twe040e13fb2 motor.
AC Service Tech LLC Single Stage Compressor
So if the module has failed this won’t work then? I wish there was a way to just bypass the ecm module on these ecm to run the blower fan for heating. I’m tempted to make something like this but I’m not sure if the system will work properly if the 16 pin harness isn’t connected to the module?
Being broke sucks… but worse 2:42 being broke when your ecm fails when it’s less than 2 years old and the hvac company that installed it seems to have gone out of business so no warranty. I believe the motor is still good(I checked it using these tutorials). Also power is going to the module from the 16 pin comm harness. It was short cycling, now nothing an it’s still COLD 🥶 outside!
Those modules are expensive. Check for clogged filters or plugged evaporator fins in the air handler coil. These conditions (causing air restriction) will cause premature failure of the modules due to overheating.
@@MaMa-qh4dy I think it’s the ductwork. Everything else was clean. 3 of the vents were blowing little bits of insulation out and one in the extra bedroom is blowing nothing out. So there definitely an issue with the ductwork. When we moved in the main filter was missing so I replaced it but now I think it might have been gone for a reason.
@@alloutofdonuts3998 could there be something physically clogging your duct(s)? If all else fails, you could swap out the ECM with a much cheaper PSC motor. You will need to add a relay if you are handy. Otherwise, take a look at Quick Swap which may be easier install while still preserving your multi speed functions of the blower for heating vs cooling.
I need help testing my motor it doesn't have as many wire as you do. It only has 5
Is it a psc with a capacitor? If so, look up acservicetech psc blower motor thanks!
It's just like the one you have hear just doesn't have as many wires for the 24 volt side
So what does this test tell us? Please explain. Does the test tell us if the module is bad? Or the board is bad? I did a test with the very same tester on a job. My motor did not come on. I'm pretty sure the motor is good but the module is bad. Does the tester completely bypass the module? Or just the board? Confused and cant seem to understand and I been doing this for nearly 30 yrs. Sad!
Test the motor with this tool. Verify you are sending the 24v signal and verify that you have high voltage going to the motor. If the motor doesn't turn on then the motor or the module are bad. Then test the motor and read resistance values. All three resistance values should be the same and they should not read resistance with the ground frame. If the motor is good then the module is bad. Did you watch my other ecm troubleshooting videos for motor testing?
Search for ecm_textbook for a detailed look at the different models and how they work. Then come back and watch this video with a new perspective. Its a 21 page manual from 2007.
Can you teach us ECM to PSC Motor Conversion, how to wire it. thanks in advace
I would like to at some point, thanks
Did this on new motor, does not run?
This method is not perfect. Doesn't work on some type of motors, depends on made and models ua-cam.com/video/GhkSOCKS0eI/v-deo.html
Would like to see a video explaining why low batteries in the thermostat will prevent blower motor from running but It doesn’t effect the operation of the condenser fan or compressor. Just seems like bad engineering ... We didn’t used to have that problem before thermostats had batteries… Did we? Thanks
Kind of seems like we’re creating problems so someone can get rich fixing the problems or having grunts fix it them for them ...sounds like a recipe for disaster eventually ....Its why A.I. could very likely be a real problem in the near future ....I saw a UA-cam video tonight saying that more and more executives and CEOs are secretly flying off to other countries to get high on ayahuasca so they can come up with great business plans....I think that s probably not going to be good for the world. I could be wrong.
Great video, AC Service Tech LLC. Just what I needed to troubleshoot my ECM 2.3 blower motor! One question - On the connector supplying power to the motor, what voltages do you expect to see on the 3 pins? I found this reference: www.genteqmotors.com/assets/0/96/101/111/112/222548e1-3a94-4465-ae93-3ac96782fea5.pdf. But I'm seeing otherwise on mine.
What do you mean otherwise? You should have 120v or 240v supplying. Is your voltage off?
@@acservicetechchannel
As per the Genteq guide (Pg. 14 in the guide I linked in my post), line 5 - 120V, line 4 - 120V, line 3 - GND. But what I see is 230V between 5 and 4, and approximately 15V between 5 and 3. Does that indicate a problem right there? The control board is giving me 28.8V AC between R and G screw terminals, which I will use like you mention in your video directly as input to the motor.
@@paragj Those genteq 120 voltages are to ground but your line 5 to 4 should be 230-240vac. The two hot phases are 180 degrees out of phase. Research US split phase residential power to understand.
I got a replacement control module for my Trane air handler 2.3 ECM blower (GE from 2002). My unit was wired for 240V and the replacement control module was an identical part number however it had a label from Trane (separate from the GE manufacturer label with the model number) which said “wired for 120V”. My thinking is that the module was pulled from a Trane air handler that used a 120V supply and probably had the jumper wire on the high voltage power input plug (5 pin) to provide 120V to both circuits in the control module. My unit is 240V and the 5 pin is not jumpered but directly wired with both sides of the 240V power. Would it be OK to use the replacement? Is this type of labeling by Trane commonplace? Aren’t these 2.3 ECM modules all dual voltage, just depending on how input power is wired at 5 pin?
What does this test tell us?
If I jump the thermostat connections red and green together in my blower fan turns on, would this test be needed to check low voltage wires? My blower is not running right now
I just tried it and the the tech mate I made didnt work. I triple checked the wiring. Anyone?
Bad module likely. Ohm out the motor coils after removing module.
This has been a big repoff ecm motors no defrent thn spc s
A even bigger "repoff" than your spelling
I am so lost. I don't get the purpose of a motor tester. If it's applying 24 volts then why not just see if you have 24 volts coming from your original plug???? Why unplug that and then plug in your motor tester to apply the same 24 volts that you already had????
If I have 24 volts from the original plug that's already there and my motor is not going, how does unplugging that plug and plugging in the ECM motor tester and applying the same exact 24 volts cause my motor to run when I already had 24 volts there the entire time?
How do you test an ECM 2.5 motor?
It seems from the limited information I can find, that this might be a proprietary setup. It's got the 16 pin connector, but the pinout is definitely different than the 2.3 type. If required I can provide PWM or even more advanced/complex signals (I2C, etc...).
Looking at the connector, from the wire side:
_ _ _ _ ▆ _ _ _ _
│V x L x x R x x │
│O x Y x x x x x │
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
V - Violet
L - Light Blue
R - Red
O - Orange
Y - Yellow
x - no wire
As of note, on the furnace system control board, the Yellow and Light Blue wires are permanently connected together. They seem to be connected to a transistor, resistor and zener diode circuit that supplies 12VDC (that is, I _assume_ - the zener diode is a 12V type, 1N4742). The Violet connects to the large 64 pin MCU chip made by Hitachi. The others (Orange and Red) connect to some 560 ohm resistors and then a ULN2003 chip, which is basically an array of transistors with a common ground connection. There is also a set of diodes; it seems that the ULN2003 chip can be used to select certain wire combinations (pull them to ground) through those diodes.
I haven't tried to connect them yet, don't want to burn anything out if my connections are wrong, so I figured I'd consult the web...
We recently scrapped an old (around year 2001) Carrier Infinity furnace unit. Inducer motor was bad, the board on it was fried and resistor values were burnt so I couldn't fix it. Overall, it was way too expensive to replace the inducer, and the drain pan was starting to rust, unable to buy replacement, etc... just way too expensive to keep it running. We replaced with a RUUD unit.
I wanted to fiddle with the blower, to see if I can get it working as a stand-alone unit. (Just for fun!)
Here is the Link for the TecMate Pro- amzn.to/2jIP0ty -- maybe check out in the direction manual if this can be used to test power the 2.5 as well as the 2.3. I know when the 2.5's go bad, we replace them with the 2.3 or 3.0 thanks
The techmate is not compatible with 2.5 EC Motors
I just bought a tech mate pro, but realized I have a 2.5 motor, is there an adapter I can find in order to check my 2.5 with the tech mate pro, please help I may just purchase the board because I already purchased a reconditioned 2.5 that still will not run, does that sound like a board problem to you? Thanks
You never used the multimeter
The only problem with this video, is that you are not explaining which pins to connect too in a DIY. Most people do not have access to other hvac systems and cannot cut off an exsisting pinned cable connector and therefore only have simple wiring using the gator clip method.. The only positive in this video is the techmate pro advertisement. Im not trying to sound ungrateful, but it would benefit the DIY people if you explained which pin using a single wire method for each pin to connect too...
it is clearly explained which terminals have what power source to them. Your issue is going to be in connecting to those terminals without hitting a terminal that you don't want to energize. Perhaps you can go by an ac shop and ask to buy a plug off one of their junk pile units. Most if not all of these videos have a statement at the beginning that they are meant for knowledgeable and competent technicians. It also states " Do not try this at home" I don't think the target audience is DIYERS.
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It's the module 95%+ of the time, why even test? X13 troubleshooting? That's kinda funny really, just replace the module, all you need to do is match horsepower, none of that ridiculous programming. Now show me how to repair the modules, and I'd pay for that