A 600 degree tempil stick is the more pro way to go (over soot) to see if you are at temp, they seem dry and chalky, but melt when when you hit the mark. As others below said, sharpie works, and soot. One I didn't see in the list was ivory soap, rub some on, and it will turn black when you hit the mark - it is my favorite since sharpie and soot never fully burn off (leaving you guessing) and with the tempil stick you have to keep taking the heat off to test, which slows the process. Aluminum is tricky because it's the same color at melting as it is at room temp. If anyone at tempil reads this, please reverse the process for pens to work like Ivory soap?
Great job on the roof rack. Doing the same here. The way I anneal aluminum is to use a black sharpie and scribble in the area you want to anneal plus and inch or so outside the area, when the marks disappear from heat you are really close. This lets you know you have heated the tubing uniformly. Then if you look at the edge of the map gas flame on the aluminum, as soon as you see the flame edges get red, stop. Let cool and your done. I bend on a tighter radius, 2D with a mandrel so it needs to be as close to 600 as possible.
Have you tried to get aluminum fresh from the mill, less than 2 weeks old, we use to have a guy come in that made dock ladders, and that is what he did to make it work for him under 2 weeks it is still pliable, after 2 weeks it begins to harden from the silicone.
Not really an option unless you have a mill close by or have a metal supplier that is willing to let you know of fresh dates codes when they get orders in. But that is good info that could work for some! Thanks for sharing.
some conduit benders have rollers or follow thru bars i wonder if that helps avoid cracking. still very interesting, can you fill it with sand to prevent cracking or krinkling? Can you do a destuction test vid? aluminum IMC vs 6061
Guestion...I fly a paramotor trike and I've been working to build my own. If you anneal the metal to bend it do you have to worry about it bending after it's built? Or should that not be a problem? Do I need to heat treat it to give the strength back? Just wondering
I found that over time it gains some of it’s strength back. After a year of sitting on a rack, I tried to bend a piece previously annealed. To my surprise it only bent about 15 degrees before it snapped. I wouldn’t worry much about that. I’ve welded quite a few paramotor frames over the years. Welding them also removes the hardening in that area. Always inspect your frame before/after flight for cracks.
Where about did you purchase the die for the bender. Thinking about building one but would like to see what dies are available first. Thanks. Also. Great video!!
I want to get some aluminum tubing from the hardware store to bend into a geodesic (dome shaped) greenhouse frame. Is there a way to fo this with a torch ? I don't have a machine lol
Also very impressive on building your own bender man. Didn’t see a “bullet” setup which kinda confused me at first then noticed your radius was 6” with annealed 6061. Still, even tho, great “non-wrinkleage”
Hi great vid and very helpful, if You were to get 6060 t5 aluminium would that bend no problem without annealing it? Or would that also need to be annealed? Thanks
90 minutes should be fine. I let mine completely cool before I bent. Maybe even a day or two. I tried a piece that was sitting over a year and it had re-hardened.
Possibly, but you would have to try. The other alternative is 6063 t-52 but it only comes in pipe size. It bends with no issues unless you have a Baleigh RDB-250 bender, their dies just don't like soft material and will rip it.
@@Regalmetalworks thanks for the reply. I will look into 6063 T52, but since I’m trying to roll it and not bend it, I haven’t found a pipe roller. Only tube rollers.
I’m going to be doing a similar project soon. I don’t have an oven so I am thinking I’ll try the map gas route. I only have 4 bends to make. Do you think I’ll be ok as long as I take my time with the map gas?
You're welcome. It depends on how hot you can get t he oven. An hour at 400 worked for me. If you cant get it that hot, maybe a but longer. Bend it as soon as you can. Over time it will re-harden. I tried bending a piece I heated a year later and it snapped after 10 degreea of bend.
All depends what it's hardened state is. Anything under T4 is able to be bent without annealing first. The most commonly available is 6061 T6, so most of the time that is what you are dealing with. I haven't seen any 6063 in tubing, only 6061, 6063 is normally available in Pipe, so schedule 40 or 80.
we build and bend 6063 for railings and yes it's pipe sch 40 we use up to 2" pipe just thought I'd mention it for any project that requires bending. I've found 6061 not suitable for bending thanks Doug@@Regalmetalworks
@@tallchicago1 6063 is definitely a softer material don't know what the temper is but this is what we use for railings and tuna towers in mill finish and anodized , marine applications .
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks you save me the from my own experimental (SNAP) and wasting pipe!
Thanks for taking the time!
Glad to share and thanks for the sub!
Hi , this Video or better these info you are giving is exactly what I was searching for. Thank you ,,
Rigid aluminum conduit comes in 6063 T1 and of course is designed to be bent.
I'm getting excited. My bike frames and I thank you
Huge help. Thank you.
Love the dog. He’s casually listening.
Exactly, finally a dog that really pays attention, A lot to learn here...
A 600 degree tempil stick is the more pro way to go (over soot) to see if you are at temp, they seem dry and chalky, but melt when when you hit the mark. As others below said, sharpie works, and soot. One I didn't see in the list was ivory soap, rub some on, and it will turn black when you hit the mark - it is my favorite since sharpie and soot never fully burn off (leaving you guessing) and with the tempil stick you have to keep taking the heat off to test, which slows the process. Aluminum is tricky because it's the same color at melting as it is at room temp. If anyone at tempil reads this, please reverse the process for pens to work like Ivory soap?
Great job on the roof rack. Doing the same here. The way I anneal aluminum is to use a black sharpie and scribble in the area you want to anneal plus and inch or so outside the area, when the marks disappear from heat you are really close. This lets you know you have heated the tubing uniformly. Then if you look at the edge of the map gas flame on the aluminum, as soon as you see the flame edges get red, stop. Let cool and your done. I bend on a tighter radius, 2D with a mandrel so it needs to be as close to 600 as possible.
Have you tried to get aluminum fresh from the mill, less than 2 weeks old, we use to have a guy come in that made dock ladders, and that is what he did to make it work for him under 2 weeks it is still pliable, after 2 weeks it begins to harden from the silicone.
Not really an option unless you have a mill close by or have a metal supplier that is willing to let you know of fresh dates codes when they get orders in. But that is good info that could work for some! Thanks for sharing.
Aneal of Aluminum is between 550* to 750* with a water quench ,unlike steel alloys.
There's a lot of good info in this. Nobody talks about how powder coating wrecks heat treatment.
A black sharpie marker is a perfect indicator for anealing the t-6 with a torch.
some conduit benders have rollers or follow thru bars i wonder if that helps avoid cracking. still very interesting, can you fill it with sand to prevent cracking or krinkling? Can you do a destuction test vid? aluminum IMC vs 6061
I did the same thing... Why I didn't see this before? Thank's for advice.
You are very welcome!
Great vid and good input man. Learned a lot from ya
You are very welcome Jason! Thanks for the feedback!
Guestion...I fly a paramotor trike and I've been working to build my own. If you anneal the metal to bend it do you have to worry about it bending after it's built? Or should that not be a problem? Do I need to heat treat it to give the strength back? Just wondering
I found that over time it gains some of it’s strength back. After a year of sitting on a rack, I tried to bend a piece previously annealed. To my surprise it only bent about 15 degrees before it snapped. I wouldn’t worry much about that. I’ve welded quite a few paramotor frames over the years. Welding them also removes the hardening in that area. Always inspect your frame before/after flight for cracks.
Where about did you purchase the die for the bender. Thinking about building one but would like to see what dies are available first. Thanks. Also. Great video!!
Pro-tools.com tgat is what that bender was designed to use.
I want to get some aluminum tubing from the hardware store to bend into a geodesic (dome shaped) greenhouse frame. Is there a way to fo this with a torch ? I don't have a machine lol
Also very impressive on building your own bender man. Didn’t see a “bullet” setup which kinda confused me at first then noticed your radius was 6” with annealed 6061. Still, even tho, great “non-wrinkleage”
Hi great vid and very helpful, if You were to get 6060 t5 aluminium would that bend no problem without annealing it? Or would that also need to be annealed?
Thanks
Hi Josh, T5 would still need to be annealed. T4 would not need to be annealed. Thanks!
Regal Metal Works thanks for the reply will keep that in mind for future projects
Cheers
Very good - thank you
this is a solid video, guess i won't be building my own aluminum tube bumper anytime soon
Nice job yes that is helpful.
Pretty cool man... Thank you.
That was educational - thanks.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
What about 6082 tube bending?
need some more video about 6061 - T6 : 1.25 x 0.28 ; 1.5 x 0.28 ; 1.75 x 0.28 ; 2 x 0.28 ... thank you
How fast is a bending needed after the warm up process ,.? Would 90 minutes be too long . Is a cooling after bending necessary ?
Best thanks
90 minutes should be fine. I let mine completely cool before I bent. Maybe even a day or two. I tried a piece that was sitting over a year and it had re-hardened.
Do you think that you could roll T6511 gradually with a much larger radius and not crack it?
Possibly, but you would have to try. The other alternative is 6063 t-52 but it only comes in pipe size. It bends with no issues unless you have a Baleigh RDB-250 bender, their dies just don't like soft material and will rip it.
@@Regalmetalworks thanks for the reply. I will look into 6063 T52, but since I’m trying to roll it and not bend it, I haven’t found a pipe roller. Only tube rollers.
What is the difference between T6 and T6511?
I’m about to try this with 2” sch 40
If it 6061 t6 it will work as well, but I am not sure if pipe is heat treated to t6 so you may not need to anneal it.
I’m going to be doing a similar project soon. I don’t have an oven so I am thinking I’ll try the map gas route. I only have 4 bends to make. Do you think I’ll be ok as long as I take my time with the map gas?
Yes, you will be fine. Get it to 600f and it will be ok.
@@Regalmetalworks Glad to hear it! Thanks for the reply and the entire video. This is going to help me out a ton
Great video!! What was your bend radius?
6" radius.
I think he said 6
6 inch.
I've heard 6063 bends easier and more corrosion resistant 👍🏼
Wonder if this would crack on a chicago bender...
If you anneal it 1st it should not crack, now the bend you end up with is another story altogether...
Thank you for video. How long did you put the aluminum pipe into the oven for?
You're welcome. It depends on how hot you can get t he oven. An hour at 400 worked for me. If you cant get it that hot, maybe a but longer. Bend it as soon as you can. Over time it will re-harden. I tried bending a piece I heated a year later and it snapped after 10 degreea of bend.
@@Regalmetalworks Do you mean you have to bend while it's still hot?
@@kenl5217 no you can bend it when it is cold, but it doesn’t hurt if it is warm.
@@Regalmetalworks thank you
Hello great bent! How is the annealing process?
time consuming. If doing with a torch, it takes a good amount of time to heat the material up.
OK thanks! Do you do it all over the pipe or just on the turning radius?
I anneal the entire pipe because I made multiple bends but you could just target tge area you need to bend.
Hi, what was the temperature ( Celcius ?. ) and duration you used for the aluminum pipe before bending. Thank you
204c for 1 hour suffices, 315c is better but a little harder to get to temp in a powder coat oven.
@@Regalmetalworks Thank you very much for your reply and your time..
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😮😊😊😊😊😊
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THIS IS TUBING, i WANT TO KNOW HOW TO BEND SQUARE ALUMINUM SQUARE ROD. i WANT TO FREME THE fENDER'S FOR MY 1901 OLDSMOBILE WITHOUT HEAT
What about 7075?
Where are you located?
Harrisburg Pennsylvania
if you're going to heat it (anneal) then there's no point buying that alloy then is there?? just get a more malleable alloy.
What program do you use to do all you drawings?
Fusion 360
Good dog
Does this rust
No, aluminum does not rust.
I like that ragged ass looking dog! lol
why not just use 6063aluminum bends nice
All depends what it's hardened state is. Anything under T4 is able to be bent without annealing first. The most commonly available is 6061 T6, so most of the time that is what you are dealing with. I haven't seen any 6063 in tubing, only 6061, 6063 is normally available in Pipe, so schedule 40 or 80.
we build and bend 6063 for railings and yes it's pipe sch 40 we use up to 2" pipe
just thought I'd mention it for any project that requires bending. I've found 6061 not suitable for bending thanks Doug@@Regalmetalworks
@@dougzelin9597 What temper 6063 do you use that bends well??
@@tallchicago1 6063 is definitely a softer material don't know what the temper is but this is what we use for railings and tuna towers in mill finish and anodized , marine applications .
U look like Shaun Michael's of wwe