Fixing Decks -Airfix Prince Part 2 Printed 3D parts in Plastic and Wood Filament
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- After breaking the fragile deck part for this old classic kit from the 60's I needed to make a replacement and as I now have a 3D printer I thought that might be a quick and easy way to do it. However things got a bit carried away as I tried to print wood filaments to make a wood deck from wood. Things got very woody!
Merchandise - NEW HOUDINI LIFESAVER SHIRTS
houdinimodels....
Buy me a Curry with no lock in monthly contract, just donate what you want when you can
www.buymeacurr...
To see my videos advert free and much earlier, plus get more perks, then go to Patreon
/ harryhoudinimodels
Join this channel on UA-cam to get access to perks
www.youtube.co...
You can also donate via Paypal
harry@houdinimodels.com
You can also use Super Thanks in any video
Web Links
www.houdinimod...
/ hhmodels
thats very handy now that you can print your own wood Harry you never know these days when wood will come in handy
I just need it to come a little firmer… I am having trouble with keeping it up on the nozzle. A firm grip may be needed.
Nice save on the deck. The detail on the old Airfix kit is impressive.
Thanks 👍 Luckily Airfix had access to the Naval model made back when the Prince was first commissioned. So they could measure and get detail from it, as the Naval models were pretty accurate, almost 3D plans of the ship they were building at the time.
When I saw that broken hull, it struck me that's exactly how every chocolate egg looks when I get it home.
Well it is nearly Easter
An interesting look at what you can and can’t do with a 3D printer (in this case anyway) Harry, and some great tips for printing. I think the resin printed decks look great, with beautiful definition. We always learn something while watching your projects materialise from a box full of plastic. Looking forward to the next one. Cheers for now!
I am exploring how we can use 3D printing to enhance our models. Not resin though, I only use filament now and FDM printers. Much less toxic.
Course it's worth mucking about a bit...its how you learn stuff.
Anyway, we all like knowing that shit happens to others too.
Great little vid. ❤
Thanks Dave… mucking about is my method and my madness
Crikey, it's starting to look like a ship 😉
That decking looks spanking 😘
It does the job and should stain up nicely if and when I can get a full set in Wood printed
Thanks Harry. The wood really looks good. Should be a lot easier to make now that you got the bugs out.
Thanks 👍 I have the method sorted, now just need the rain to stop
Interesting, always nice to learn some new techniques.👍
Good on you Guido thanks for commenting
Unbelievable what you can do these days. I'd watch Star Trek: The Next Generation and marvel at the Replicator. We never thought stuff like that could happen, but, with a 3D printer we're pretty damn close. Who knew you could print wood!? Pretty soon, Ikea will just sell .stl files. Downloadable furniture! Have a great week!
Yes Roger the idea of just ordering something, then it prints at your home is almost feasible already. The new 3D printers have become more like a home appliance, unpack, plug it in, and go. Although until we get fool proof filaments, you will still need craftsmen to make stuff.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Yeah, you can't beat craftsmanship, but how much longer will it be taught!?
Have a great build. 👍
Thanks matey… I have been looking forward to this one for a while. Now those pesky decks are out of the way, I can get on with the fun stuff.
Enjoying watching the journey, HH!
Glad you enjoyed it Malcolm.. more to come
Thsnk you and maybe setting up a satellite shop in the dry old outback would be handy. 😅 just for occasions like this and why not add a 3d laser scanner too. Its only needs a massive pile of dosh. Cheers laddy. 😊
I have a scanner program for my iPhone. Haven’t tried it yet. More useful for organic shapes, but my prints tend to be functional and easily measured. As for the dry outback, now that is a good idea EJ.
Always interesting, Harry.
Well done.
Good on you Andrew, thanks for watching
Hey old mate hope you're doing well, sweet video Cheers KC 🇦🇺 🤝🇦🇺😎🤗👍
Thanks for the visit Metal. Aveugudweekend!
@HarryHoudiniModels my pleasure anytime mate 👍 👌
Cool Harry, thanks for sharing
Good on you Cos… hope the 3D math wasn’t too much?
@@HarryHoudiniModels No, more inspiring than anything. I have a 3D Resin printer and until recently I printed other folks’ CAD kit add-ons. I think I’m mentally ready for the next step of CAD.
I would suggest starting with OnShape. It is free to use and one of the easier CAD programs to get your head around. Talking Tech on UA-cam has some very easy to follow tutorials, he is a teacher in his day job, so presents the subject clearly plus the videos each have a build example you can try, which helps to learn the skills he shares.
Great video. I wood 😅 certainly be happy with the basic PLA decks but the wood PLA looks amazing. Not tried any filaments other than 'normal' PLA. Does appear that some filaments need special storage and enclosed printers to be consistently successful. Worth the faff though if you can get a full set of decks.
I have an enclosure for the Neptune, but haven’t set it up yet. Also have some ABS (styrene) filament. Might try to set up the enclosure then use the ABS for real plastic decks.
Hi Harry. Great video. I recently bought the Airfix Golden Hind. It’s deck like your Prince is very warped. Never had to use the hot water method to remove the warp. If you are ever going to 3D print those decks I would definitely buy these from you. Thanks. Dave
I will let you know if I can perfect the wood printing and get a consistent result. Watching back my video I see where even on the rear deck the one side, probably the end of the print, also started to have holes from moisture popping.
@@HarryHoudiniModels - Thanks for the response Harry. I will probably be using the work decks from HiS Models so I won't need the wood decks, just the regular plastic and/or resin you usually use. Thanks Dave
Looking good mate happy modelling old boy 👍
Thanks Anthony 👍 I am fast approaching that classic Beatles song age.
Give that a try.
I was a fun thing to try but took up two weeks of my modelling time
@@HarryHoudiniModels yes sometime it can happen I find photo etch can be challenging at most
Shiver me timbers mate
Hasn’t been much shivering here since last year James… our Summer down under hasn’t ended yet.
@@HarryHoudiniModels I'll swap you harry doesn't stop raining here😢
Oh we have that too with 90% or more humidity! So hot and wet, like my ex GF.
Nice Shin
You need to do an spanish one
Many thanks for your time and effort
I did review the Carrack model kit of Vasco Da Gama… Portuguese thought, but close to Spain
Very interesting. Good knowledge of math required for this engineering project - but never ignore the weather Gods.
Probably should have said trigonometry Max, but yes if you are designing from measurements then a little math is needed. No more than any carpenter would need to make a part on a ship.
I think you will have to force dry the wood filament spools. It will have sucked the moisture out of the atmosphere. My latest prints are in PLA plus, which appears that bit better than PLA.
I printed all the grey decks with Elegoo Rapid PLA+ which lays down nicely on my Two Trees SK1 core XY. I have never had much success with PLA+ on the Neptune 4 Pro, doesn’t dial in nicely on the bed slinger. Both my printers have eSun filament heated dryers attached to them by boden tubes, unfortunately the Neptune has it’s run out sensor at the top, with a gap down to the direct drive leaving 12 inches of exposed filament. So no matter how dry the encased spool is above, the filament is exposed as it draws down to the print head and, as I have found with wood filament, that is enough exposure to allow it absorb moisture and ruin the print.
@@HarryHoudiniModels I have read reviews of various manufacturers of PLA +. They all appear to have their own mixes. I have been using eSUN PLA+ that works well on my Creality Ender-3.
Awesome! I have similar problems that need to be addressed with some Heller kits. I was wondering about how to put some camber in the deck, too. Do you have any thoughts on this? I suppose it may not be worth the effort at a scale strictly smaller than 1/200 or so.
I am lucky enough to live in a high-altitude, arid region.
I have already thought about the camber as all the upper decks have some on the Prince. My intended solution is to warm the wood deck parts in hot water then, when supple, rubber band them to the Airfix deck part using it as a shape former. Leave overnight and I should have cambered deck parts the next day.
@@HarryHoudiniModels I can't wait to see how this works. Building the camber into the printed piece would entail a much trickier design process for each deck. Thank you for these vids!
I’ve got a question Harry. Were those deck planks a uniform length or were the decks made up of different lengths of planks? Anyway, you’re brilliant, mate. Those 3-D printed decks look way better than the Airfix ones. 😍👍🏻
The widths on any sailing ship deck planks are usually consistent. I am scaling 12 inch wide planks, quite typical for the period on 1st rate Ships of the Line, so that is in 1/180 scale about 1.7mm wide. However planks could vary from ship to ship from 6 to 12 inches wide.
Lengths would depend what part of the ship you are planking. On a large deck they could be up to 12 foot long (3.6m). They were usually placed in a staggered pattern as I showed when I used wood veneer planks on the St Louis decks. I am yet to add that feature to my 3D designs but will do that before printing the final wood decks.
The lengths and widths of planks all depended on the size of the ship and your money purse. A smaller vessel for a less wealthy merchant would get the cheaper wood cuts. Down to as little as 6 foot lengths. But again the widths and lengths would be consistent for the deck on each ship respectively.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thanks Harry, this is exactly what I wanted to know, plus extra. Very fascinating stuff. 🙏🏻😁
Ian Dury sang a song about people like you 👍
“I wanna be straight”, “There ain’t have been…”,”Mash it up Harry”?
Second one@@HarryHoudiniModels
Can you coat the wood fibre decks with a Matt varnish to stop the bio degrading?
I am sure that would work. The wood chips in the PLA will probably make it last longer.
What caught my attention in the plastic sailboat models of the 60s and 70s was that the detail and mold quality were noticeably superior compared to airplane and tank models of the same era. I have tanks and airplanes from the 70s, but none of them match the detail quality of a Saint Louis, Vasa, or H.M.S Prince.
This also shows that back then (at least with Airfix), plastic ship models were given serious importance. I can't understand why models that look so beautiful and aesthetic are on the brink of extinction today.
They really had some craftsmen working on the model designs back then Aras. For Airfix it was their ‘golden years’ so I expect they had enough free cash to finance projects with a limited run, or maybe it was a captive market with little competition?
Times have changed and the cost to tool a complex Ship of the Line from the Age of Sail just is not economical. All we get mostly are rehashed old kits made into popular Movie props, like the Black Pearl. Although Revell did a nice job on their 1/220 Victory, but hasn’t released a decent size scale of that subject.
So we have to wait for the 3D designers to build us new models. I found a 3D print file for the HP.42 Heracles, not a ship but, it was perfect down to the tiniest detail and would print in parts as large as 1/32 scale. Maybe this is the future of scale models?
I will say, in all my years 3d printing, I've never seen PLA biodegrade. Melt and deform in heat? Absolutely. But it really needs an industrial composter to biodegrade it.
So you have been 3D printing for over 50 years then?
@@HarryHoudiniModels Nah, 3d printing has only been around since the 80s! I've been involved for about 10 years on the chemistry side after building my own printers when using weed whacker string was the norm, hah.
Did some digging and find there is varied opinion about the bio degradation of PLA.
Most agree it has a shelf life of about 2 years until it will start to degrade and may become unsuitable for 3D printing.
However long time degradation is cited as anything from 15-80 years with some saying if you keep your prints in a cool place away from direct UV light they could last a lot longer.
So you may have something, but the jury is out on this. Still a very new plastic product let loose in the eco system.
However I do agree if you leave PLA outside in direct sunlight, or even in a hot car it degrades quite rapidly. I printed some PLA back seat hooks in my car for holding shopping bags. Worked well in winter here, but by mid summer and with the car parked outside in the hot sun, they started to deteriorate rapidly.
Even re-printing new ones taking care to layer vertically to avoid snapping on heavy bags only lasted a month in the hot weather here.
Harry, not being one to quibble, but aren't your 3D printed deck planks rather exaggerated?
They are thinner than the Airfix ones. 12 inch wide plank = 305mm. At 1/180 = 1.7mm wide = exactly what I have created.
The plank gaps are 0.2mm, which is a little wider than reality in scale, however the limit of detail for my printer is 0.2mm and anyway once the deck is covered with rope, sails, and guns etc plus viewed from a few feet away, those lines will be just about right. Still heaps better than the raised panel lines on the Airfix kit.