Great video. I’ve been trying to figure out why my ct5111 Sat so far to the outside of my wrist where I’d have to really twist my arm toward me to see the time. Apparently this watch requires more links on the 6 o’clock band or equal links too and bottom. Thank you!
I would say the best way to do this would be to call an authorized TAG dealer and give them your bracelet model number and order one link. I don't think TAG would sell just the pin, but instead a replacement link with the pin. Alternatively, you could determine the bracelet # and search Ebay for said link/pin combo. However, the 90's wasn't the TAG LINK, it was the S/el model (standing for "Sports/Elegance), and the S/el bracelet requires a special tool to add/remove links. If you can take apart the links, then it's a LINK and this can easily be done by you, but if it's a S/el version, you're unable to add/subtract links without that special tool.
is there a model number for the bracelet? I have the same basic watch (mens version) with a broken bracelet, trying to find a replacement but don't know how to search for it - thanks
@@normsunshine No problem! I've had a few different versions of the LINK and each one had a different bracelet code. I think over time TAG has flattened out the links, meaning that they were more curvaceous originally, but have since become more "squared off" and flattened. Basically, I think the model number on the back of the watch has a 2-part code. The first part of the code, which is maybe 6 alpha-numeric digits is the watch model and movement; then there's a period/dot and another 6 digit code. This 2nd 6-digit code is the bracelet/strap code. Good luck!
Sorry, I don't have a caliper here at home to measure; if I get back to work and I get my wife's permission to take her watch for a day, I can ask a colleague that has one in his room to measure. Usually these ladies watches are roughly 25-27mm. Thanks for the compliment. My wife loves it. I wish TAG would've kept the red/green logo instead of the skeletonized or silver one.
If you have the older s/el model you need a special tool for that watch. If there's screws, as in the LINK model, similar to this video, perhaps someone put Loctite glue on the ends of the screws, so in that case you simply dip the bracelet (not the watch itself) into warm/hot water to ease the Loctite and the screws should come out easily.
Awesome instructions!! Straightforward and well explained. Thanks!!!
My pleasure! Cheers.
Great video. I’ve been trying to figure out why my ct5111 Sat so far to the outside of my wrist where I’d have to really twist my arm toward me to see the time. Apparently this watch requires more links on the 6 o’clock band or equal links too and bottom. Thank you!
hi i don’t know if you’re still active trying this on the s89.713 and after i remove the push pin the smaller link won’t come apart?
same here. brought it to a regular watch store, and was told to bring it to a dealer
great reply after 7 months
Great instruction video - very useful - thank you for the effort!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the nice comment!
Where can I buy the link connector pins?
My 1990 ladies link watch is still beautiful, but I've lost one of the friction pins.
thank you for your help
I would say the best way to do this would be to call an authorized TAG dealer and give them your bracelet model number and order one link. I don't think TAG would sell just the pin, but instead a replacement link with the pin. Alternatively, you could determine the bracelet # and search Ebay for said link/pin combo. However, the 90's wasn't the TAG LINK, it was the S/el model (standing for "Sports/Elegance), and the S/el bracelet requires a special tool to add/remove links. If you can take apart the links, then it's a LINK and this can easily be done by you, but if it's a S/el version, you're unable to add/subtract links without that special tool.
is there a model number for the bracelet? I have the same basic watch (mens version) with a broken bracelet, trying to find a replacement but don't know how to search for it - thanks
Each bracelet has its own model number. It should be stamped on the clasp or somewhere underneath the bracelet.
@@heyitsjosh thanks!
@@normsunshine No problem! I've had a few different versions of the LINK and each one had a different bracelet code. I think over time TAG has flattened out the links, meaning that they were more curvaceous originally, but have since become more "squared off" and flattened. Basically, I think the model number on the back of the watch has a 2-part code. The first part of the code, which is maybe 6 alpha-numeric digits is the watch model and movement; then there's a period/dot and another 6 digit code. This 2nd 6-digit code is the bracelet/strap code. Good luck!
Great video. Thank you.
Hello there, beautiful tag heuer.
Whats the size Width of this watch lug to lug??
thank you for your answer, take care.
Sorry, I don't have a caliper here at home to measure; if I get back to work and I get my wife's permission to take her watch for a day, I can ask a colleague that has one in his room to measure. Usually these ladies watches are roughly 25-27mm. Thanks for the compliment. My wife loves it. I wish TAG would've kept the red/green logo instead of the skeletonized or silver one.
Do you know if there is a maximum number of links that can be taken of on either side?
I did not take them all off, so I can't be certain.
Thanks I just left only 4 links on each side.
Are you selling this?
No, sorry.
Thank you..
Hi how come mine is so hard to remove the links?
If you have the older s/el model you need a special tool for that watch. If there's screws, as in the LINK model, similar to this video, perhaps someone put Loctite glue on the ends of the screws, so in that case you simply dip the bracelet (not the watch itself) into warm/hot water to ease the Loctite and the screws should come out easily.
Ic ill try and thank u for the reply and advise , appreciate it 🙏🏻