Shame about the stone and the new blade this will go in the memory bank. I agree in how you cut the wood to get rid of the worping to get accurate sizes, plenty of kindling to start next winters fires cheer NZ.
I was wondering why you dont place your slabs on the lift forks instead of carring them away and then have to carry them back when you cut the finished width?
I've been enjoying your videos a lot Do you dry wood before or after milling it? If I were to cut down some trees on my property should I mill them right away or let the logs dry for a while? Then how long to let them dry stickered after milling
You can definitely mill freshly cut logs. As far as the drying time goes, there are several factors. Soft woods dry faster than hard, thickness and length of the boards, the humidity and temp in your area. It’s not a “one size fits all” kind of thing.
Thanks, I'm just a few towns over from you, I have a lot to learn about all this, what's your general timeframe for drying wood, etc. or has this been covered in another video?
If I was doing what you did about getting that cant up on the mill, my back would break. If I was you I'd lay a chain down and roll the cant over it then hook it up somehow so you can lift it over the chain. I'd be down in the back. I'm talking from many years of experience. If you hurt your back then you won't get to saw all your orders up. Protect your back and body at all cost. I hope I didn't offend you with this word of caution, it wasn't meant to be offensive. Keep sawing and I'll keep watching. See ya mark
I always learn something new when I watch your videos. It's frustrating when any type of cutting tool gets damaged, in this case a new saw blade. Do you sharpen your own saw blades? If you have your own sharpener, could you do a video on you're sharpening technique? Thank you.
Thank you, OLD SCHOOL MACHINIST! I’ve never sharpened a bandsaw blade. The Wood-Mizer dealer will do it for $7.00 a blade. A good sharper is about $1,500.
For a project like this, have you considered taking a couple of large ‘C’ clamps, and clamping each end together. Making your initial cut, and than flipping them over together. By doing that you would get a perfect width on all of the boards. Rather than trying to get all the boards to line up by pounding on them with a scrap piece of lumber and a hammer. When you need to do some hammering to get something to line up. Consider investing in a large dead blow hammer. Just saying...
Thank you for you videos i enjoy them just bought my first mill the LT 35 manual learning alot.
Congratulations! I just came inside from milling all day. I’m editing video now. Have fun with your mill!
Makes me look forward to my next wood project. Love milling lumber to dimension......just something satisfying about it.
That's $50 in radiator hose lol. Subbed to you and the other guy you recommended.
Shame about the stone and the new blade this will go in the memory bank. I agree in how you cut the wood to get rid of the worping to get accurate sizes, plenty of kindling to start next winters fires cheer NZ.
My wife and I are enjoying a fire on the back patio as we speak thanks to that kindling!
Thanks for the imediate reply sir.Hope the boss approved of your work.
barry hansen if there’s sawdust, she’s happy!
I was wondering why you dont place your slabs on the lift forks instead of carring them away and then have to carry them back when you cut the finished width?
I didn’t have a tractor with forks when I made this video.
Great video do you use bimetal blades?
I do now, Bram! They’re awesome for this kind of wood. ua-cam.com/video/fiyKHkvRmu4/v-deo.html
More great work
Hi! I hate nails as well - one or two always get by! Do you use any sort of lube on your bandsaw blades, when re-sawing?
I didn’t run lube because I was afraid of staining or warping the wood.
Looks like you had a productive day man-dam those rocks...
It was a pretty good day, Rob. I’m hoping to get back at it today.
I see the boss came and checked on you 👍 I was talking about your daughter
Part 4?
I've been enjoying your videos a lot
Do you dry wood before or after milling it? If I were to cut down some trees on my property should I mill them right away or let the logs dry for a while? Then how long to let them dry stickered after milling
You can definitely mill freshly cut logs. As far as the drying time goes, there are several factors. Soft woods dry faster than hard, thickness and length of the boards, the humidity and temp in your area. It’s not a “one size fits all” kind of thing.
Thanks, I'm just a few towns over from you, I have a lot to learn about all this, what's your general timeframe for drying wood, etc. or has this been covered in another video?
The general rule of thumb is a year per inch of thickness for hardwood. Softer woods like cedar and Fir tend to dry over a summer.
Coming out nice !
Man, I hope you get that contract! Rocks, nails, it's all going to happen.
The panels I was sawing when I hit the rock is already a paying gig. If I got the glulam project, that would be a nice chunk of change.
Northwest Sawyer that's the one I was referring to lol
That's a cool project
If I was doing what you did about getting that cant up on the mill, my back would break. If I was you I'd lay a chain down and roll the cant over it then hook it up somehow so you can lift it over the chain. I'd be down in the back. I'm talking from many years of experience. If you hurt your back then you won't get to saw all your orders up. Protect your back and body at all cost. I hope I didn't offend you with this word of caution, it wasn't meant to be offensive. Keep sawing and I'll keep watching. See ya
mark
I hear ya, Mark. I have a tractor with forks now. I don’t know how I got along without it. Everything is much easier and safer now.
Yes I've seen it, you did a great thing buying that. I love to watch your channel, and wish you all the success you need to make it work.
turn the volume up.
What state is that?
Oregon
I always learn something new when I watch your videos. It's frustrating when any type of cutting tool gets damaged, in this case a new saw blade. Do you sharpen your own saw blades? If you have your own sharpener, could you do a video on you're sharpening technique? Thank you.
Thank you, OLD SCHOOL MACHINIST! I’ve never sharpened a bandsaw blade. The Wood-Mizer dealer will do it for $7.00 a blade. A good sharper is about $1,500.
OUCH..... on the cost of a sharpener!!!!!
Great videos but your voice does not carry, not your fault, suggest turning up the audio on the camera. Thanks.
You know if it is going to go wrong it will
Real bummer hitting a rock after navigating through nail infested waters.
How much are you talking for a new blade?
I buy them in boxes of 15. I think it works out to around $21.00 per blade.
Northwest Sawyer ouch that has to hit the margins a bit when recycling those beams.
Rocks nails dirt other metal. The sayers lament.........
rock beats saw (scissors). saw beats paper (wood)
For a project like this, have you considered taking a couple of large ‘C’ clamps, and clamping each end together. Making your initial cut, and than flipping them over together. By doing that you would get a perfect width on all of the boards. Rather than trying to get all the boards to line up by pounding on them with a scrap piece of lumber and a hammer. When you need to do some hammering to get something to line up. Consider investing in a large dead blow hammer. Just saying...