Great tutorial! I especially appreciated the tip on pinning parallel to the seam line. It's small things like that that are often skipped over in tutorials, and yet they often make things easier and result in a better finished product.
For certain fabrics, I would place a tag board strip under the seam edge, otherwise you’re going to get an edge mark. Silk makes an excellent bias treatment.
This was good. I've always just wrapped double fold bias tape around and stitched it on. This way is much more accurate and pretty. Never knew that correct method has a raw edge on underside. I will try this for sure. Thank you!
Both methods are correct. I should have talked about it more in the video. From my research, when the raw edge is tucked in, it's called a bias bound finish and when it's left raw, it's called the Hong Kong. I think the Hong Kong finish is a little easier to do and it's flatter.
You should mention that this method is great for curved pieces too, you just have to pre-form a bit through some stretching of the bias before applying. For standard sewing, this is the perfect finish for hem edges before sewing the final hem.
This is a great video tutorial. I am working on sewing together my first coat (with a thick fabric that will fray) and didn't want to have to buy a serger; this Hong Kong bound seam finish will be perfect. Thank you for the clear instruction and good visuals!
Thanks for the terrific tutorial. When stitching in the ditch, we should only sew through the bias strip and the seam allowance, not through the garment fabric?
That's how I do it. As long as you keep the sewn bias band folded tightly to the original cut edge of of your fabric piece (so you don't "deform" your original pattern) you should be good to go. Also, if you finish the necessary edges right after you cut out our pieces, you can avoid the annoying fraying that comes with manipulating those pieces through the process of assembling your garment.
Thanks for this very clear video…. If I were to use this method to make a jacket would I also be able to do the shoulder seams this same way? It seems like that would be hard on a curved seam. Is it recommended to do the shoulder seam differently? Possibly enclosing both layers together on that same?
Hi Donna, It would probably be too bulky to finish the seams together using this method. It should work fine for a shoulder seam and for a curved seam. When you use bias tape, it stretches nicely around curves. I hope that helps!
Maybe novice question. I’m three months into my sewing journey and I’ve been dreaming of a double knit coatigan a la Berlin Jacket but w/o overlapped raw seams. Can I Hong Kong finish double knit with woven bias??
Hi Sarah, I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work. The oversized nature of the coatigan means that the seams wouldn't get pulled around too much during wear. Before you dive in, I'd do a test sewing the bias tape you plan to use on a scrap of your fabric, just to make sure that they behave well together. Happy sewing!
My main concern would be bulk. If the fabric is thin and lightweight then I think it would work fine. If it's a thicker fabric though, it could be challenging to sew through all the layers. A little side note on what I usually do: In most garments, I finish seams with a serger and I finish them all separately before sewing the seams. However, for gathered skirts, I will finish the bodice and skirt seams together with a serger after sewing the seam because it will create less bulk.
@@SewDIY thank you for the reply. can you recommend other options of finishing the gathered skirt part of a dress if you don't have a serger? thank you
I love all my “teachers” online at youtube. This is an awesome tutorial. Thank you.
Great tutorial! I especially appreciated the tip on pinning parallel to the seam line. It's small things like that that are often skipped over in tutorials, and yet they often make things easier and result in a better finished product.
I never knew I could use bias tape that wasn't all folded up! Thank you!
Glad I could help! :)
I really love your Explanation Thank you.
For certain fabrics, I would place a tag board strip under the seam edge, otherwise you’re going to get an edge mark. Silk makes an excellent bias treatment.
great tip!
oooh, that is a great idea! I have... something like 10 yards of orange Habotai silk from a bundle box that is about to become bias tape! 🙌
This was good. I've always just wrapped double fold bias tape around and stitched it on. This way is much more accurate and pretty. Never knew that correct method has a raw edge on underside. I will try this for sure. Thank you!
Both methods are correct. I should have talked about it more in the video. From my research, when the raw edge is tucked in, it's called a bias bound finish and when it's left raw, it's called the Hong Kong. I think the Hong Kong finish is a little easier to do and it's flatter.
Isn't this a bound finish?
You should mention that this method is great for curved pieces too, you just have to pre-form a bit through some stretching of the bias before applying. For standard sewing, this is the perfect finish for hem edges before sewing the final hem.
super helpful! thanks!
That's a terrific tutorial! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for your precise instruction
I'm so glad that it was helpful!
This is a great video tutorial. I am working on sewing together my first coat (with a thick fabric that will fray) and didn't want to have to buy a serger; this Hong Kong bound seam finish will be perfect. Thank you for the clear instruction and good visuals!
I'm so glad it was helpful.
@@SewDIY amei as dicas. Seria bom colocar legendas em Português.
Thanks for the terrific tutorial. When stitching in the ditch, we should only sew through the bias strip and the seam allowance, not through the garment fabric?
Great video!!!
so question. would it not be easier to do this while the garment isn't sewn together?
That's how I do it. As long as you keep the sewn bias band folded tightly to the original cut edge of of your fabric piece (so you don't "deform" your original pattern) you should be good to go. Also, if you finish the necessary edges right after you cut out our pieces, you can avoid the annoying fraying that comes with manipulating those pieces through the process of assembling your garment.
Thank you for explaining this
My pleasure! I'm so glad that it was helpful.
Thanks for this very clear video…. If I were to use this method to make a jacket would I also be able to do the shoulder seams this same way? It seems like that would be hard on a curved seam. Is it recommended to do the shoulder seam differently? Possibly enclosing both layers together on that same?
Hi Donna, It would probably be too bulky to finish the seams together using this method. It should work fine for a shoulder seam and for a curved seam. When you use bias tape, it stretches nicely around curves. I hope that helps!
Trim the fabric after you sew it down is a traditional technique. Make the bias tape wider and you will not have the fiddle factor to contend with.
Maybe novice question. I’m three months into my sewing journey and I’ve been dreaming of a double knit coatigan a la Berlin Jacket but w/o overlapped raw seams. Can I Hong Kong finish double knit with woven bias??
Hi Sarah, I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work. The oversized nature of the coatigan means that the seams wouldn't get pulled around too much during wear.
Before you dive in, I'd do a test sewing the bias tape you plan to use on a scrap of your fabric, just to make sure that they behave well together. Happy sewing!
Sew DIY, I’ll definitely try that, thank you!! And I love following your content 😊
How would I finish the edges of the yardage bios? X
is this ideal to use at the skirt & bodice raw edges where the skirt is gathered? thanks
My main concern would be bulk. If the fabric is thin and lightweight then I think it would work fine. If it's a thicker fabric though, it could be challenging to sew through all the layers.
A little side note on what I usually do: In most garments, I finish seams with a serger and I finish them all separately before sewing the seams. However, for gathered skirts, I will finish the bodice and skirt seams together with a serger after sewing the seam because it will create less bulk.
@@SewDIY thank you for the reply. can you recommend other options of finishing the gathered skirt part of a dress if you don't have a serger? thank you
@@dancingpixie5974 You can use a zig zag stitch or another type of overcast stitch on a conventional sewing machine.
If you put your pins in horizontally,they're quicker & easier to remove as you sew along.
Why does your jacket have 2 different colour seams❓🤔
Thank You! Let us always remember to say, Thank You Jesus Christ for everything you do for us. John 3:16. Eph chapter 6. With Love
Omg it's terrrible.