How I Finish Seams - Finishing Raw Edges in Sewing
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- Whew! I juuuust missed the midnight deadline to technically upload this on Sunday night! Opps...so close! This 2 week challenge is harder than I thought it would be! Thanks for sticking with me you guys!
Tonight I'm playing around with trying to make more detailed sewing tutorials, so I started with something simple to play with the format. Here are three ways I finish seams and enclose raw fabric edges in my garments while sewing. Serging, binding with rayon seam binding, and enclosing within bias tape!
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Bugger historical accuracy. Since I got my serger, it has made seam finishing so easy. I agree with you, if they had servers 100 years ago, they would have used them. I sew costumes for hire, so need a robust seam finish, and the costume only needs to look time period correct on the outside (on stage etc) so the internal finishing can be serged The only time I follow historical practice, is when the inside of the costume will be seen, such as when an actor removes their jacket on stage. Otherwise, I use any technique to make the sewing easier and quicker. Just discovered your channel, so am busy binge watching. 😊
I bought an old sewing basket at an estate sale that has a ton of vintage seam binding in it. I had no idea what it was even for. Thank you for this video!
Okay I just have to say after watching this I was inspired to buy some rayon seam binding...and I’m never going back to anything else. It’s such a nice finish and at least so far it’s been so easy to use!! Thank you for making this video!!
I am so glad to hear you like it!
Rayon seam binding was my favorite method before I got my serger. Now I serge all the things. So much faster (as long as the silly thing doesn't get jammed or come unthreaded) and I love that I can get most of the seam finishing out of the way at the beginning of the project.
I totally agree, I love having the ease and speed of the serger on hand :)
That’s awesome! I had no idea, there is such a thing as one layer seam binding. I only know the folded bias tape method, which is kinda bulky and a lot of work, imo. I really like the look of nicely finished seams though, it bothers me, if a garment doesn’t look tidy on the inside.
Oh, and I love your example of using bias tape as a hem finish. That’s new to me as well 👍
Thanks Rara! I quite like rayon seam binding as it is indeed very thin and lays nicely. Using bias to hem is my favorite for circle skirts! So much easier on curved shaped hems ;)
🤯🤯🤯
Thank you for taking my suggestion! I didn't even know rayon seam binding was a thing. I really appreciate it. Might try the sleeve cuff too.
Love those earrings. I've never finished a hem with biased tape but definitely will give that a try. I have a thrifted dress that I want to drop the hem to squeeze a little more length out of it - your method seems perfect!
Absolutely fabulous tutorial on seams! Loved it! I noticed on my great grandmothers work (she didn’t have a serger of course) she used a zigzag stitch instead of serging but not sure how that would work on really delicate fabric as organdy I’ll have to experiment your video got me in a sewing mood! Thanks for sharing & Happy New Year! 🥂🍾🥂
Thank you Cherri! Happy New Year to you as well!
Thanks so much! Gave me idea and way to use rayon seam binding on a crepe back satin gown. Also, would love to see and hear how you make make your victory rolls by yourself.
Love love love the hair and makeup today! Top three fandoms? Easiest day to day vintage styling thing you do to get that vintage flair? What are Hong Kong Seam finishes...are any of these shown here called that? What is the most intimidating garment you have ever made? Favorite snack and beverage while sewing? Least favorite vegetable? E-books or hard bounds? Favorite Authors? Favorite sewing related process, least favorite sewing process, favorite Etsy shop? Lol question fodder if you don’t get enough I suppose. What is on your sewing table? What is in your Unfinished item pile? Best mending or cleaning vintage tip or trick?
Thank you indeed for the many questions!
Thanks Bianca! For the Q&A: how do you sew a placket?
Thanks Talar!
Absolutely loving this hairstyle on you, Bianca! Wow, so elegant and lovely. Now to learn about finishing seams :) Love from Denver!
Thank you Becki! I should wear it this way more now that it's longer from lockdown 😅
Okay everybody, we're entering into week two of my two weeks of videos challenge! (and I have only missed one day so far wahoo!) So knowing I will be returning to day job work this week, I am going to enlist your help in one of my videos for this week by asking you to...well to ask me things! That's right, it's gonna be a good old fashioned Q&A, so leave me some questions here in the comments and I will do my best to answer what I can in a video later this week!
Ohhhhhhh congrats on the new job! Have a happy New year!!!!
@@fufucuddlypuffs3685 Oh it's not a new job, I just had this last week off ;) Thanks though!
@@TheClosetHistorian opps!!! We'll hopefully they appreciate you being back!
Thanks, this was just what I needed! I inherited some rayon binding tape, now I can use it!
Been enjoying all your videos. Great tips, I've never seen the rayon binding 🤔 good to know that it's an option. If I'm really trying to strive for pretty garment guts then I go for a French seam, otherwise I'm all for the serger.
Thank you Akram!
Love that seam binding ribbon. I have some corduroy I was going to flatline but the seams would probably be too bulky to fell in my usual way.
Love the hair Kiddo ! 👜
Thank you!
Always love watching your sewing tutorials chica!
And yes, I would love to see how you do your victory rolls with bobbed hair! Xxx
Thank you Jo!
I’m sewing a robe out of a 70’s polyester pattern of circles and flowers and I haven’t sewn in about 10 years. I am scared but I am really getting interested in doing it and I’m kind of nervous about seam binding but it definitely looks better and professional and it protects your material from use. I recently bought fold over braid which it says in the back is from 1972 so I can’t find any videos; like what you would use it on or how to sew it, looks like a single fold 100% polyester knit, from Talon. . It has like a texture to it. Off to sew!!
This was very helpful!.. Thank you!.. Im a brand new subbie now!👍
Thank you Dianne!
I'm a fan of rayon binding tape: it takes a wee while to do but I find the elegance and quality in the final garments worth the effort. I'd love some posts about underwear. I've recently started to make my own camis and full slips and would like to know if you make yours or, if not, what you find works best to shape and support a vintage wardrobe, and whose RTW you recommend. Do you buy vintage or always new? I'm similar curvy shape to you and find undies make a huge difference to a look!
Thank you for the questions! I did make an entire video about undergarments too, talking about what I wear, you can find it here ua-cam.com/video/IEC3uhhF90Q/v-deo.html :)
This video is so helpful, thanks for the tutorial and tips.
Thank you Kelli!
okay, so FIRST: you're slaying that silver eyeshadow and those victory rolls so hard, they can't even cry out for mommy. WOW.
Second, that bias tape tip was mind. blowing. Like Rara, I've also only used it to fully bind the edge, which is quite bulky.
Third, you're a pro at those machines... mine hate me. All of them. So I do 99% of my sewing by hand. I wish I could get used to the serger and sewing machine like that!! D'=
Thank you Beatrice! Years of showing the machine's who's boss I assure you, now they behave most of the time (...but not always) ;)
Thank you for this video!
Bindings are not my fave! Yet they can save somedays! lol I forgot you could serge before sewing. I always sew, then serge both sides.
I only serge after sewing when I forgot to do it before hand, but either way works the same in the end of course ;) I'm so happy to have a serger now, even if technically it belongs to my mom, she never uses it!
I love the hairstyle. A video would be great. I appreciate this video as I learned something new. I genuinely forgot how to put in zips or make them appear cute. Do you work with zips a lot? Q&A question: what's your zodiac Ascending, Sun and Moon sign & if you're into astrology at all? Thanks! ♥️
Thank you Lele! I use lapped finished zippers in all my skirt and dress projects, but zippers are still my least favorite part of a project by far, they just make me nervous and I can never get them as perfect as I would like. Always room for improvement in sewing!
I've got to try doing the bias tape and hand stitch sometime for sleeves. I HATE hand sewing and will always try to avoid it. This method looks so nice though, I think I could live with hand sewing just around an armhole for it!
I quite like hand finishing even if it takes more time, I sorta like that it forces me to slow down. Zippers are still my least favorite sewing task of all though!
I do want a hair tutorial please and thank you! I’m new to the channel and want to know what is your favorite history period to learn about?
Thanks Karlee!
Love your hair like that!
Thank you!
Amazed by hairdo! So cool. Exactly WHEN does one do the finished edges, after cutting out fabric pieces? In home ec class in the 70s we used pinking shears or folded edges under then sewed then iron After construction. It was difficult.
I usually finish the raw edged before I sew thing together!
Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed it. I’d like to see you do a video on easing. Like with princess seams or easing a neckline or waist line. I have difficulty easing without puckers.
Thank you Estelle! I don't often have to ease much, but I think the biggest tip I know for easing is to have the bigger/longer piece on the bottom closest to the feed dogs on the underside of the machine (the little "teeth" that move the fabric through under the needle) and the smaller/shorter piece on top. This guide seems to be pretty good books.google.com/books?id=GFVWjKLfvOEC&pg=PA40&lpg=PA40&dq=easing+seams+feed+dogs&source=bl&ots=1ZEWIXYy62&sig=7W7bJHHkEVE7SsKVdYcZJfWcHNU&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiY79SVuMvfAhVm0YMKHQZMBtYQ6AEwCnoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=easing%20seams%20feed%20dogs&f=false
Thank you very much, I’m going to buy the book you suggested.
@@seestellysew8472 Oh goodness! I don't own that book, I just read that one section on easing on google books and it seemed good, but hopefully it is all good!
TheClosetHistorian it’s ok Bianca, I love to collect books, I looked through it and thought it would be good to add to my collection.
@@seestellysew8472 Okay whew! I was worried I had made too a hasty recommendation!! ;)
Just catching up on your videos, and Yes please to the victory roll hair tutorial! Or have you already done that and I haven't found it yet?
Your hair looks fabulous in rolls. Although let's be honest, you always look fabulous!
Thank you Heidi! One of my victory roll tutorials can be found here ua-cam.com/video/0jUhgx-o3M4/v-deo.html
Have you ever tried a gong Kong seam finish? At least that’s what I think it’s called, ShannonMakes uses it in a video and it looks really cool. These are nice tips, thank you for sharing ❤
It's pretty much the same as using the rayon seam binding, but the rayon seam binding is suuuuper thin, so I prefer it for less bulk!
Hi Bianca! Thank you very much for making your videos, they’re fun to watch and easy to learn from. I’m just getting started making a pencil skirt and wanted to see where you currently buy rayon bias tape because the Etsy shop you linked is no longer selling- do you have a new source?
Unfortunately they have stopped making Hug Snug brand rayon seam binding!! Which is a real bummer! Try searching "Hug-Snug" on etsy to find anybody who still has some in stock and snap it up now before its gone forever I'm afraid
@@TheClosetHistorian Thank you for replying! I searched Etsy and eBay and was able to find a couple of colors!
I've always thought that you need to do two steps to do a seam binding. Here, you only need one step because the rayon strip don't have frayed edges?
The rayon seam binding is has a finished edge yes! No fraying ✨
Loved this! I do not have a serger and every time I have done the zigzag on the raw edge it never comes out nice, or rather, I am unable to make it nice..
I hope one of these other methods will work for you! :)
@@TheClosetHistorian Hi Bianca!! I cannot wait to get back into (my forever beginner) sewing mode! Unrelated, I know it's fast fashion, and I do not know how much it costs in the US, but zara has some vintage inspired handbags and I thought of you, I am by no means an expert, but just felt like sharing it with you, in particular half crescent straw ones (black and natural) that to me feel 40s ( really considering getting one, but I just keep overspending and overflowing with stuff so I try to make-believe I hesitate and am conscious 😂) and then there is a plasticky one with many colours that maybe is more 60s (??)
I'd like to know what started you vlogging and how much preparation did it take? It must be quite a major decision to know people will be viewing you
Since I have already filmed the Q&A I'll answer this one here :) I suppose I just have been a long time fan of UA-cam in general, and so many vloggers have been a really important part of my growth and entertainment too over the past many years. I always loved blogging, but knew that that particular platform was dying (as people left blogs for instagram), so I decided to start trying to make videos instead. Since I already had an okay camera, the hardest thing was learning how to be myself in front of a camera, I feel like I am getting better at it as I go!
So, if you serge, you take off the diamond notches, what do you do to keep them for later matching?
Alas I do not usually use notches myself. You can always draw a dash on the pattern piece with tailors calk instead of using a notch and line up the marks instead. My serger also doesn't have a blade, so no excess gets cut off on my machine so notches are still kind of visible.
I am making a shirt with a gathered sleeve. How would you finish that seam where there are gathers or pleats? Thank you!
Normally I just serge both the armhole and the sleeve piece so the edges are incased in thread personally, but I know not everyone has a serger and that such a method would not work on every fabric. You could also bind the raw edges in thin rayon seam binding, just a zig zag stitch over the raw edge, or clip with pinking shears. It kinda depends on how much "stress" the area will get for me, if it was a loosely woven fabric I would be more concerned vs a tightly woven shirting which is less likely to cause trouble.
@@TheClosetHistorian I was looking at a similar shirt I made years ago, and I did a french seam, which actually worked out OK. One side of the french seam had "gathers" from the sleeve, but that side was pressed in, so you don't see it. I was a lot more adventurous a sewer in my earlier years --I need to get back to that. Anyway, thanks for answering my question. I really enjoy your channel.
What sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner?
Hi, I wanted to know if rayon seam binding is machine washable/ dryable?
The Hug Snug brand is at least, it is labeled washable!
I am hand felling seams on a shirt and I need help. When finishing the seams at the armscye, do the seams go into the sleeve or out? And how are they done?
I'm afraid I have only ever felled seams on costuming projects not regular clothes so I do not know, I'm sorry!
@@TheClosetHistorian it's alright! I felled them into the sleeve and it doesn't look awful, which, for a first garment, is wonderful. Thanks anyway!
I saw a tutorial that said not to finish your edges until AFTER you sew the seams together because you can distort the fabric. Does it make a difference? I cannot find the answer anywhere, and doing things your way would just be so much easier to be honest.
I have never heard this before! I have certainly never noticed a problem 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian
Thank you so much!! You are amazing!
Could you use a ribbon instead of the rayon seam binding?
I suppose you could, but the good thing about the rayon binding it that it is very flexible for going around curves and around corners, and is suuuuper thin which keeps anything from getting bulky. I'm sure it is possible to use ribbon though!
How do you hem circle skirts so they are straight?? I just made a skirt......and then the hem I couldn’t get straight so it’s wobbly and ruins the whole thing.
It can depend heavily on how tightly the fabric is woven sometimes, as something with a looser weave can stretch much more than something stable like a twill or cotton sateen. I like to let the skirt or dress hang for at least 24 hours from a hanger or dress form so that all the stretching can happen, then I put on the skirt and stand up straight while an assistant (usually my mom but most humans will do) measures up from the floor all the way around marking the true hem on the skirt for me with pins. Then I trim any excess fabric that dips under this hemline away and only then actually stitch the hem.
@@TheClosetHistorian that makes so much sense! And now I’m kicking myself for not realizing that super simple solution haha I was trying to figure out how to measure the hem by myself and thought, whatever, it’s a fuller skirt and no one will notice if it’s slightly off. Wasn’t thinking that it would affect the look of the hem that way🤦🏼♀️
Your eyes look beautiful today