Thanks for suggesting this for me Bob! I threw every trick (including shocking the rust as you did) to no avail. My last ditch effort was simply to cut it off. I showed the pitting and rust on the crank shaft in one of the videos. You asked what the major differences were with the Vanguard vs. Intek. Vanguard has a much more forgiving head design when it comes to heat displacement, which I think is the #1 advantage over the Intek, which is much more prone to over heating and blowing head gaskets. I will do a side by side comparison between the two head designs before I button up this Vanguard. Excellent question by the way! Give the little man a Hug From Zippo!! Cheers my Friend! Zip~ (Oh, and yes, I flipped the push rods. I also gauged them off camera to ensure they were true and strait. Head bolt torque video should be up!! Over DOUBLE the recommended torque ratings of 165 inch pounds!!)
I never had to cut one off yet, but I'm sure I will see one soon. I will keep my eye open for your comparison video. That tractor is going to be ready to fire really soon.
a way of avoiding overheating the shaft by the oil seal, fold a paper towel wet it and wrap it around the shaft near the engine and will absorb the heat. you can wet it again with a spray bottle. i do this when soldering copper pipe near a fitting that should not be overheated.
Hi, Sometimes, when the tension on the puller is really tight, you can hit the center shaft of the puller with a hammer and it will pop it loose. Nice job! Thanks for sharing
Darryl 603, I've been doing that for over 60 yrs ,it works 98% of the time, also use the right puller, the puller he's using will break the flange almost every time, but you have to use what you have
I have use the heat & water shock also. But if you run into this problem again, after you heat & shock it, heat it again then get a candle & let it melt while you are heating it up. I am sure you will be as surprised as I was on how well this works. Stay well, JoeZ
Thanks for sharing this, Bob. I thought heat alone would help break it loose from the rust, but the shock it gets with rapid cooling really makes sure.
I got this far on my Honda 8hp, in order to replace the crank case gasket, however cannot get the case cover off. Do you have any videos on removing the case cover, or replacing crankshaft bearing?
Good job. Another way might be to use that Lincoln welder behind you and weld a nut onto the pulley, then screw a bolt through the nut forcing the pulley off. Lots of ways to skin a cat.
I have the same pulley on an 8 hp Briggs and used a 3 jaw puller like yours. I broke the pulley with the puller. I missed the set screw. I’m going to try and JB weld the pulley in hopes it will still work.
honda 5.5 hp on uebler (ferris) 810 hydrostatic feed carts. honda 11 & 13 hp on small square bedding choppers. i buy, fix & sell them as well as use them myself. ferris makes lawnmowers in nearby munnsville ny in old uebler factory. feed cart biz sold to black hat mennonites in wisc.
Great video......I don't have access to Oxy/Acetylene.....would a bottle of MAPP gas and a torch work? I am trying to remove the front pulley off of a 1953 Farmall Super C. The crankcase has flanges and a set key, and it probably has not been off since 1953. Any suggestions?
I would like to know, what you think about the Kawasaki 460v you we’re working on, my problem is that when I pull the pull string to start it, it’s very difficult to pull, I have drain the oil and gas, cleaned the mag needle and adjusted the ignition coil with a business card, change oil and still it’s hard to pull, any ideal?
Great effort probably best to clamp it down on a table or leave it on the machine it came off next time. Also keep putting oil on spindle surfaces to help it. Also keep heating it up on the way.
Next time try using an Air Impact Gun to remove the pulley..........After getting the Pulley off, did you take a Brass Wire Wheel to the shaft and clean it up, then put on Never Seize all over the shaft before you reinstalled the new pulley?
you got lucky for me the pulley would have broke or the jaw of my snap on puller would have broke then i would have to resort to cutting it off with the die grinder
The idea is to expand it with heat, why would you cool it off with water? I've been doing this shit for over 50 yrs. & I've never used water, heat is enough. By the way, you ruined your hex key by taking the temper out of it with the torch!
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Why didn't you use the impact wrench laying on the floor 0:53
Thanks for suggesting this for me Bob! I threw every trick (including shocking the rust as you did) to no avail. My last ditch effort was simply to cut it off. I showed the pitting and rust on the crank shaft in one of the videos. You asked what the major differences were with the Vanguard vs. Intek. Vanguard has a much more forgiving head design when it comes to heat displacement, which I think is the #1 advantage over the Intek, which is much more prone to over heating and blowing head gaskets. I will do a side by side comparison between the two head designs before I button up this Vanguard. Excellent question by the way! Give the little man a Hug From Zippo!! Cheers my Friend! Zip~ (Oh, and yes, I flipped the push rods. I also gauged them off camera to ensure they were true and strait. Head bolt torque video should be up!! Over DOUBLE the recommended torque ratings of 165 inch pounds!!)
I never had to cut one off yet, but I'm sure I will see one soon. I will keep my eye open for your comparison video. That tractor is going to be ready to fire really soon.
a way of avoiding overheating the shaft by the oil seal, fold a paper towel wet it and wrap it around the shaft near the engine and will absorb the heat. you can wet it again with a spray bottle. i do this when soldering copper pipe near a fitting that should not be overheated.
Hi,
Sometimes, when the tension on the puller is really tight, you can hit the center shaft of the puller with a hammer and it will pop it loose. Nice job! Thanks for sharing
That's a good tip. I will have to try it.
Just be careful. There's a lot of stored energy there...
Got it!
Darryl 603, I've been doing that for over 60 yrs ,it works 98% of the time, also use the right puller, the puller he's using will break the flange almost every time, but you have to use what you have
I have use the heat & water shock also. But if you run into this problem again, after you heat & shock it, heat it again then get a candle & let it melt while you are heating it up. I am sure you will be as surprised as I was on how well this works. Stay well, JoeZ
What do you mean? Light the candle under the pulley? Or drip the wax on the seized part?
Finally, someone who knows what he is talking about
Mann... I thought your intro is tools that i need lol.
Lolol
might not have even been available when the vid was made , but the shake and break tool is great on set screws .
Thanks for sharing this, Bob. I thought heat alone would help break it loose from the rust, but the shock it gets with rapid cooling really makes sure.
Maybe the heat alone would work. I should have tried that first. It was really thick rust on that one. At least I got it off.
I got this far on my Honda 8hp, in order to replace the crank case gasket, however cannot get the case cover off. Do you have any videos on removing the case cover, or replacing crankshaft bearing?
Good job. Another way might be to use that Lincoln welder behind you and weld a nut onto the pulley, then screw a bolt through the nut forcing the pulley off. Lots of ways to skin a cat.
I have the same pulley on an 8 hp Briggs and used a 3 jaw puller like yours. I broke the pulley with the puller. I missed the set screw. I’m going to try and JB weld the pulley in hopes it will still work.
good work bob, that pulley was on there! Lol
Yes your not kidding!
Great job. I don't have OXY Acet YET. That was a tough one you were puffing!!!.
I guess I should have geared up for the impact gun, but I didn't think it would take so long to get off of there.
Quite a workout, nice job!
I should have used the impact on it.
Good work Bob .Got it in the end.
Thanks Pete!
am a dairy farmer & use those honda 11 & 13 hp motors. very helpful vid. never thought of the water throw on
Thanks.
What do you use them on?
honda 5.5 hp on uebler (ferris) 810 hydrostatic feed carts. honda 11 & 13 hp on small square bedding choppers. i buy, fix & sell them as well as use them myself. ferris makes lawnmowers in nearby munnsville ny in old uebler factory. feed cart biz sold to black hat mennonites in wisc.
What did you heat up? Shaft or the pulley?
Great video......I don't have access to Oxy/Acetylene.....would a bottle of MAPP gas and a torch work? I am trying to remove the front pulley off of a 1953 Farmall Super C. The crankcase has flanges and a set key, and it probably has not been off since 1953. Any suggestions?
it bent my 3 jaw wheel puller........
Terrific video, tough job!
I would like to know, what you think about the Kawasaki 460v you we’re working on, my problem is that when I pull the pull string to start it, it’s very difficult to pull, I have drain the oil and gas, cleaned the mag needle and adjusted the ignition coil with a business card, change oil and still it’s hard to pull, any ideal?
Thanks hope my cheap tiller goes this smooth lok
Great effort probably best to clamp it down on a table or leave it on the machine it came off next time. Also keep putting oil on spindle surfaces to help it. Also keep heating it up on the way.
Put an impact on it with a socket extension
I’m trying all this… same oxy-acetylene, pb blaster, 3 way puller…. No luck yet. Will try the water. Thx
Excellent work.Cool.
Thanks.
Put a damp cloth behind pully on shaft
Great vid man!
Hmm a friend recommended it but I'm not sure it will fix near my 1983 crown Victoria
Next time try using an Air Impact Gun to remove the pulley..........After getting the Pulley off, did you take a Brass Wire Wheel to the shaft and clean it up, then put on Never Seize all over the shaft before you reinstalled the new pulley?
very nice job.
Goid job double wide why didnt you use the impact on it instead of wrench lol hows the boy doing
I think the impact wrench isn't good for the puller, boogers up the threads.
How do you get a stuck crankcase off briggs and Stratton engine
Very helpful thank you ☺️
the pulley was junk in this case but would the water possibly crack the pulley if it was cast iron.
nice work!
Thanks!
a little WD 40 or thin oil and an impact gun would help.
I agree, I did this one the hard way, but I got it done.
Mine ain’t coming off🥵
you got lucky for me the pulley would have broke or the jaw of my snap on puller would have broke then i would have to resort to cutting it off with the die grinder
Dennis Peck Cut mine off with a hacksaw in probably 10 minutes
Thx DW
If this works I'll come back and sub
hmmm.
The idea is to expand it with heat, why would you cool it off with water? I've been doing this shit for over 50 yrs. & I've never used water, heat is enough. By the way, you ruined your hex key by taking the temper out of it with the torch!
just go with it Jimbo ..!