The motor pulley removal may not have demonstrated the need for a puller but I'll never forget the back plate you used to protect the pulley itself. That alone is worth hours spent watching UA-cam machine shop videos.
I'm a HVAC tech and had to remove hundreds of adjustable sheaves and pulleys. I use wedges between the motor and sheave. If it take more than fifteen minutes it's cheaper to replace the sheave. Time is money I was a little surprised that the motor pulley didn't have a set screw for the key Great video
I appreciate the amount of time you have dedicated to pullers, and their use. I have very few import tools and always do my best to never drag them home. Some cheap import HF quality tools are not only prone to failure, but worse, can hurt you, or what you are working on! Pullers are at the top of the list of such tools in my opinion. Like you, I too have a good number of pullers, some of them older than my 61 years, but every last one that I own is a well known American brand. My point being, I firmly believe that if you are going to buy import tools, NEVER, EVER let a puller be a tool that you decide to settle for a cheap import! Bravo for another fine instructional video Mr. Pete!
@@mrpete222 something else I forgot to mention that you understand only to well. Regarding pullers, buy the quality used ones as you find them even though you may not need or use them for years. You don't want to have to buy them new when you need them.
If you need proof that not everyone has a sense of humor, make a joke on the internet, and don't explain it's a joke. I may never do any of the things I see in your videos but I find them fascinating. Great stuff😎😎😎
I bought several pullers at auction quite a few years ago. I had a bit of what you like to say, "buyers remorse" when I got home that day. Now years later and having used the pullers numerous times, I call it one of my best purchases. Just one of those tools you don't use often, but when you need it, they are priceless.
I love the fundamental task vids such as this. While admittedly mundane, one would be remiss not to carefully consider what others with far greater experience have done for perhaps decades. When taken for granted, the basics which make us so easily can break us.
Tip is those taper pins are available in 2 tapers, an Imperial one and a metric one. You get a reamer that is meant for each of them, though the pins are the same cost the reamers are very different in price. 1 in 12 and 1in 10 for the different tapers, and in a pinch they will fit each other. A lot of the pins are not hardened at all, just good steel, so are soft enough to conform to the hole and grip well. They are often used as a frangible link so a sudden overload or jamming of the machine does not shear shafting or shatter gears, but rather snaps the thinner pin instead. To fix that you do need the reamer to get the hole true again and use a larger diameter of the long pin, then cut the excess off.
I am a retired tradesman and happen to be your age. I have never developed a tolerance for the peanut gallery critics. I, long ago made it my policy to disregard any and all comments from persons who cannot show proof they have successfully done something. GFY has become my mantra. I have the greatest respect for you, what you have done and continue to do. One of my biker friends gave me a fridge-magnet sticker. It says, practice birth control, GFY.
I believe the first wheel you pulled off was a perfect example for a gear puller... The reason with the right preparation and the right tool a job can go very easily and very safely with very in this case no damage to the tool to the park or to the machine the right tool for the right job can save you a lot of Heartache
Great as usual thanks Mr. Pete. I always get a chuckle when he says things like you can pick up a tapered pin down at your local hardware store. Where I am from those stores whent the way of the Dodo bird.
Great video, very informative. I too was surprised on the location of that set screw. A little hint, a couple of large rubber bands around the jaws of the puller, Will help when installing it. It will also help when you get the pulley off, by holding the pulley, So everything doesn't fall apart once it gets loose. Sometimes the pulley will break loose, and everything will fall apart at the same time. if one jaw of the puller slips off, everything comes loose. Not good. Stay safe and have fun.
A couple of tips, when you have removed the set screws or pin add some penetrating oil in the holes. As well you should clean any paint or rust from the exposed portion of the shaft that you will have to drag the pulley over and oil it. Before reassembly dress where the set screw sat with a file.
One of the worst pulleys I ever had to remove was where the key had sheared in 1/2 - bits of the now smeared key got wedged between the shaft and the pulley. That, and all the rust from the last 52 years of it being outside (small tractor) had it stuck really well. Ended up splitting the hub with a recip saw to remove the tension.
Hi Tubalcain I've been in the trade for 40 years and yes some times your videos are a little long but somewhere in them I find a nugget of knowledge or a brain jogger to some forgotten details. So please drone on, besides these are your videos. Thanks
I wish I had seen this video before finding a double set screw on a pulley the hard way. I managed to put enough force on the pulley that the set screw sheared. Once apart I saw my mistake. I lesson I wont soon forget.
Mr Pete, The backing plate tip behind the pulley is just what I need for an antique walk behind tractor project . Don't worry, the South Bend marketing officials are long gone and will not be charged with federal hate crimes with long prison terms.
Great set of videos. I have a 9A that was part of the 1940s War loan buy arrangements that was originally shipped to the Admiralty. I am trying to restore mine, which has been in moth balls for the last 25 years and is in reasonable condition. Mine has a split leather belt and it goes 'clunk' every time the metal joining hinge goes over the pullies so am interested in fitting a continuous belt hence the interest in this video. I have also watched your parting videos, which make it look so easy! However, I do not seem to have much success with parting on the 9A. I can turn shallow groves ok and get nice C turnings, but I have not managed to get it to part correctly. When I try I get needles, scraped off the 1" BMS rod or it digs in if I attempt to use power feed on D-8 on the gear box tumblers (.003 x .3) and the slowest normal spindle speed without back gear. Any ideas would be appreciated. Better still a video on some of the problems parting on the 9A showing / sound of the issues and how to remedy. Thanks Peter
Good idea about the flange behind the stepped pulley. I've either a Duro or Indestro puller like the red bodied one. Not sue if they actually made it or maybe OTC made it as a contract tool.
The first thing you need to know about a Segway: NEVER park it with the built-in kick-stand. If you walk away, someone is certain to try to climb on this apparently self-balancing ride (it isn't when it is turned off) and this will break the kick-stand. (They are expensive.) Always lay it down or lean it against some object.
great video Mr . Pete can't wait to see the video on the pulley cover I believe in the southbend book how to run a lathe they don't have covers on them
I also wish I had seen this before I broke a pulley. But now i have all the information I need to pull pulleys and bearings off of a 6 x 48 inch Powermatic joiner I found in a pasture for free. I does have rust but no pitting. A new motor and a Byrd helical cutter and I have one nice joiner.
Does anyone know how to install the "little ball" mentioned at 6:10? I have an old Lyman reloading press that I made a new turret for so I could use the more common dies. It needs one of these. Maybe they are called detents? It's purpose is to easily align the die with the ram when you spin it.
I realize this is an old video, but how would you manage with a rusted cast iron pully that is almost flush with a wall behind is? One such that you can't get a collar behind it as you showed here.
I noticed that you have a lot of tools around that you never used I started my shop10 years ago and have worn most tools out let me know if you want to donate to a good cause !!! Thanks so much for your videos I'm learning 😁!!!
Just a comment on taper pins, the end to dive it in is always rounded, the end to drive it out is always flat. The pin tells you which way to go with it
i need to go to some garage sales. 6 months ago i went to a garage sale to get maybe some tools and left with a signed Roy Rogers-Gabby Hayes movie picture. Daah :)
I appreciate your work in these videos. My questions is : how do I get the keyed retainer from off of the shaft first? I am new to keyways and could use a little guidance. I am changing pulleys on my industrialo sewing machine and don't know how to remove the retainer without damaging it. I like how you address that. Thanks
@@mrpete222 I really appreciate your answer there was a recessed set screw in the back and I believe I'll need a puller to get this pulley off. Thank you so much!
But how do you select proper Gear Puller size? I have used some 3 leg gear pullers and the legs keep spreading away. So I must use wrong size?? I always thought you select gear puller by length of the legs, but it seems wrong. You also need proper distance from the center else the puller spreads as you add tension.
The lathe I have has an odd bespoke method of belt drive which means I can't put a guard on it so I jade decides to enclose the motor and one of the pulleys in a cupboard and the other pulley behind the lathe to try and keep it out the way. The one problem I have is because of the age it does not have a guard for change gears any idea what I should do about this?
as alway,s i learn something everytime i watch one of you,re videos good thing you didn,t use a blue tool it would,ve bunr alumnium up quick i have pulled hundred,s of pulley,s never hove come across a tapered pin like that you,re idea for backup plate was ingenous as good as a brg splitter
Im in the process of rebuilding a 5hp motor for my air compressor and like an idiot I used my 3 jaw puller set in the belt grooves. The 8" pulley is cast iron so after just a few cranks of torque it broke out a nice lemon wedge. $50 mistake. Had I placed the puller through the center holes closer to the shaft (which I did on second try) all would have been fine. It's a sheaved pulley though so any advice on getting that out? I will need it for the replacement.
I've found common setscrews a poor way of fastening parts to a shaft. Tightening the screw puts a dimple in the shaft, making the part difficult to remove. Instead, drill a shallow hole in the shaft and lock the part with a dog-point setscrew.
Jim, I've never had much luck with penetrating oil, but everything helps. The best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission oil and acetone (filch a little of your wife's nail polish remover if you don't have any in the shop). Acetone isn't in commercial penetrating oils 'cause it's flammable, evaporates very quickly, and attacks most plastics and paints. As DrFiero mentions, you can have a real mess on your hands with unseen damage making the pulley very difficult to remove. Be patient, getting it apart can be very trying. Work in stages with different methods of attack.. try not to make it worse. I have reached the point where you have to decide if it would be better to save the shaft or save the pulley. Even if you have to use drastic methods like DrFiero did, you may be able to save the shaft or pulley for reuse by welding or turning a repair sleeve.
57cpdvl Yes, but it won't work on components that have seized and stress welded themselves together. Kroil isn't magic, but it is the best penetrating oil commercially available...though it isn't as good as the acetone/ATF mix. www.cyclefish.com/forums/topic/132611/penetrating-oils-which-works-best-on-rusted-nuts-amp-bolts
+Aceroadholder No kind of oil will free a friction weld. I wasn't implying it would. Time to choose the more valuable part and sacrifice the other then, like you said. I'll have to try that 50/50 mix. Thanks for the tip. And remember… "If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!" Lol!
At least OSHA has not yet come into our garage. Not that their is anything wrong with OSHA, they protect the careless and ignorant and everyone else. Keep on keeping on.
....Talking ? You always talk just the right amount ! ...Double set screws...pretty common on big industrial equipment...dimple the shaft first of course..... Pullers...I have at least 8-10...even a small one for correctly removing the battery cables...! AND...never use impact tools to drive the forcing screw !
Actually, you made a mistake by saying that the mobile tip of the big puller would be lost in one day in a mechanical classroom. This tip would not even reach the classroom. It would be lost in the receiving-shipping room of this school....
Having a healthy fear of the machine you are working on is the best Safety you can get.This is the problem you put a safety guard on a machine and people think it is safe, and then treat the machine with out that healthy level of fear. Even with a guard or any safety item that machine will kill or maim you and not care that it did. The safety you need is your brain and some healthy level of fear for you machine. A belt guard will not save you from you doing something wrong. People are not being taught proper machine safety and the well meaning people in the Safety portion of the Government think they can save every one with more and more safety. I would love to see a test one shop open belts and the training is this machine will kill or maim you be careful and another shop with all the safety items with no safety training. See after a year what will happen.
My lathe is a 1920s IXL lathe no guards or plastic guards I respect it I respect the dangers I will make sure not to get anyware near any moving part whereas is I had a guard I would lose the sense of danger.
thank you so much for posting this video. PLEASE stop talking so much and do the work. the comment is constructive . Mechanically minded know what is going on. Thanks again for the video.
The motor pulley removal may not have demonstrated the need for a puller but I'll never forget the back plate you used to protect the pulley itself. That alone is worth hours spent watching UA-cam machine shop videos.
I'm a HVAC tech and had to remove hundreds of adjustable sheaves and pulleys. I use wedges between the motor and sheave. If it take more than fifteen minutes it's cheaper to replace the sheave. Time is money
I was a little surprised that the motor pulley didn't have a set screw for the key
Great video
Yes, typically the setscrew tightens down on top of the key, that's to keep the setscrew from buggering up the O.D. of the shaft.
+TreeTop1947
Yeah now you get to repair the shaft
I appreciate the amount of time you have dedicated to pullers, and their use. I have very few import tools and always do my best to never drag them home. Some cheap import HF quality tools are not only prone to failure, but worse, can hurt you, or what you are working on! Pullers are at the top of the list of such tools in my opinion. Like you, I too have a good number of pullers, some of them older than my 61 years, but every last one that I own is a well known American brand. My point being, I firmly believe that if you are going to buy import tools, NEVER, EVER let a puller be a tool that you decide to settle for a cheap import!
Bravo for another fine instructional video Mr. Pete!
Good advice. Many people cannot afford the quality ones, which may be over $100.
@@mrpete222 something else I forgot to mention that you understand only to well. Regarding pullers, buy the quality used ones as you find them even though you may not need or use them for years. You don't want to have to buy them new when you need them.
If you need proof that not everyone has a sense of humor, make a joke on the internet, and don't explain it's a joke.
I may never do any of the things I see in your videos but I find them fascinating. Great stuff😎😎😎
I bought several pullers at auction quite a few years ago. I had a bit of what you like to say, "buyers remorse" when I got home that day. Now years later and having used the pullers numerous times, I call it one of my best purchases. Just one of those tools you don't use often, but when you need it, they are priceless.
I love the fundamental task vids such as this. While admittedly mundane, one would be remiss not to carefully consider what others with far greater experience have done for perhaps decades. When taken for granted, the basics which make us so easily can break us.
My mouth was watering seeing all those pullers! If I was at a sale I would HAVE to buy them all!
Tip is those taper pins are available in 2 tapers, an Imperial one and a metric one. You get a reamer that is meant for each of them, though the pins are the same cost the reamers are very different in price. 1 in 12 and 1in 10 for the different tapers, and in a pinch they will fit each other. A lot of the pins are not hardened at all, just good steel, so are soft enough to conform to the hole and grip well.
They are often used as a frangible link so a sudden overload or jamming of the machine does not shear shafting or shatter gears, but rather snaps the thinner pin instead. To fix that you do need the reamer to get the hole true again and use a larger diameter of the long pin, then cut the excess off.
I am a retired tradesman and happen to be your age. I have never developed a tolerance for the peanut gallery critics. I, long ago made it my policy to disregard any and all comments from persons who cannot show proof they have successfully done something. GFY has become my mantra. I have the greatest respect for you, what you have done and continue to do. One of my biker friends gave me a fridge-magnet sticker. It says, practice birth control, GFY.
I need to adopt that policy. Very sensible
I believe the first wheel you pulled off was a perfect example for a gear puller... The reason with the right preparation and the right tool a job can go very easily and very safely with very in this case no damage to the tool to the park or to the machine the right tool for the right job can save you a lot of Heartache
Great as usual thanks Mr. Pete. I always get a chuckle when he says things like you can pick up a tapered pin down at your local hardware store. Where I am from those stores whent the way of the Dodo bird.
Great video, very informative. I too was surprised on the location of that set screw.
A little hint, a couple of large rubber bands around the jaws of the puller, Will help when installing it. It will also help when you get the pulley off, by holding the pulley, So everything doesn't fall apart once it gets loose. Sometimes the pulley will break loose, and everything will fall apart at the same time. if one jaw of the puller slips off, everything comes loose. Not good.
Stay safe and have fun.
A couple of tips, when you have removed the set screws or pin add some penetrating oil in the holes. As well you should clean any paint or rust from the exposed portion of the shaft that you will have to drag the pulley over and oil it. Before reassembly dress where the set screw sat with a file.
I love your sense of humor.
The plate behind the pulley is a great idea. I like the puller with the spring mechanism to help hold the jaws in place, too.
One of my biggest fears is getting caught up in moving machinery, always glad to see guards and shields being added!
Nice work.
One of the worst pulleys I ever had to remove was where the key had sheared in 1/2 - bits of the now smeared key got wedged between the shaft and the pulley. That, and all the rust from the last 52 years of it being outside (small tractor) had it stuck really well. Ended up splitting the hub with a recip saw to remove the tension.
Hi Tubalcain
I've been in the trade for 40 years and yes some times your videos are a little long but somewhere in them I find a nugget of knowledge or a brain jogger to some forgotten details. So please drone on, besides these are your videos.
Thanks
I wish I had seen this video before finding a double set screw on a pulley the hard way. I managed to put enough force on the pulley that the set screw sheared. Once apart I saw my mistake. I lesson I wont soon forget.
Mr Pete, The backing plate tip behind the pulley is just what I need for an antique walk behind tractor project . Don't worry, the South Bend marketing officials are long gone and will not be charged with federal hate crimes with long prison terms.
I am really envious of your puller collection! I never seem to have the right one for the job.
I'm from OSHA, and I'm here to make your life better.
Fuck osha!!!
Great set of videos. I have a 9A that was part of the 1940s War loan buy arrangements that was originally shipped to the Admiralty.
I am trying to restore mine, which has been in moth balls for the last 25 years and is in reasonable condition. Mine has a split leather belt and it goes 'clunk' every time the metal joining hinge goes over the pullies so am interested in fitting a continuous belt hence the interest in this video.
I have also watched your parting videos, which make it look so easy! However, I do not seem to have much success with parting on the 9A. I can turn shallow groves ok and get nice C turnings, but I have not managed to get it to part correctly. When I try I get needles, scraped off the 1" BMS rod or it digs in if I attempt to use power feed on D-8 on the gear box tumblers (.003 x .3) and the slowest normal spindle speed without back gear.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Better still a video on some of the problems parting on the 9A showing / sound of the issues and how to remedy.
Thanks
Peter
Good idea about the flange behind the stepped pulley. I've either a Duro or Indestro puller like the red bodied one. Not sue if they actually made it or maybe OTC made it as a contract tool.
The steel plate adapter is pure genius!!! I would have used the bearing separator and a 2 jaw/bolt puller.
Thanks Mr. Pete I always learn something from your videos. Rod
Excellent video you can tell you used to be a teacher you explain things to the tee keep up the good work thanks
I always make time to watch your vids. Thanks Mr Pete!
The first thing you need to know about a Segway: NEVER park it with the built-in kick-stand. If you walk away, someone is certain to try to climb on this apparently self-balancing ride (it isn't when it is turned off) and this will break the kick-stand. (They are expensive.) Always lay it down or lean it against some object.
Great video, safety should always be a major concern around moving machines. Thank you
great video Mr . Pete can't wait to see the video on the pulley cover I believe in the southbend book how to run a lathe they don't have covers on them
Love your videos. Very educational. Your a great teacher. Thanks
Thank you very much
looking forward to the rest of this series... Thanks for sharing sir...
I also wish I had seen this before I broke a pulley. But now i have all the information I need to pull pulleys and bearings off of a 6 x 48 inch Powermatic joiner I found in a pasture for free. I does have rust but no pitting. A new motor and a Byrd helical cutter and I have one nice joiner.
I'm glad it was helpful
great idea using plate behind pulley.
Does anyone know how to install the "little ball" mentioned at 6:10? I have an old Lyman reloading press that I made a new turret for so I could use the more common dies. It needs one of these. Maybe they are called detents? It's purpose is to easily align the die with the ram when you spin it.
I realize this is an old video, but how would you manage with a rusted cast iron pully that is almost flush with a wall behind is? One such that you can't get a collar behind it as you showed here.
I just made one of those pulley's for a South Bend that was missing one. Video's in the following weeks.
I noticed that you have a lot of tools around that you never used I started my shop10 years ago and have worn most tools out let me know if you want to donate to a good cause !!! Thanks so much for your videos I'm learning 😁!!!
Just a comment on taper pins, the end to dive it in is always rounded, the end to drive it out is always flat. The pin tells you which way to go with it
the puller with the spring tension keeper, looks like the Snap-On puller I have.
i need to go to some garage sales. 6 months ago i went to a garage sale to get maybe some tools and left with a signed Roy Rogers-Gabby Hayes movie picture. Daah :)
lol
Any videos on how to put pulley back on? First time working on compressor
sounds like you might have to heat up the hub to put it back on. Thanks for sharing!
GREAT VIDEO !!!!
EVEN OLD DOGS , ME, CAN LEARN NEW TRICKS ! LOL
you took a photo with your cell phone... Ha ha ha, you also have a video of it! Brilliant.
I appreciate your work in these videos. My questions is : how do I get the keyed retainer from off of the shaft first? I am new to keyways and could use a little guidance. I am changing pulleys on my industrialo sewing machine and don't know how to remove the retainer without damaging it. I like how you address that. Thanks
I would have to see a picture
@@mrpete222 I really appreciate your answer there was a recessed set screw in the back and I believe I'll need a puller to get this pulley off. Thank you so much!
Your voice sounds like Jimmy Stewart. Relaxing
Tell that to my wife, LOL
I've got several pullers but it seems every time I need to pull something the ones I have don't fit so I end up making another one
But how do you select proper Gear Puller size? I have used some 3 leg gear pullers and the legs keep spreading away. So I must use wrong size??
I always thought you select gear puller by length of the legs, but it seems wrong. You also need proper distance from the center else the puller spreads as you add tension.
I'm not sure but I think OSHA requires a bright yellow on belt guards.
I have had a Atlas lathe for over 50 years with no belt guard on the jack shaft. I hope it will last another 10 years.
Put an elastic band around the puller legs to aid installation?
Also, what is an acme thread?
Thanks. Good watch.
acme thread is a coarse square thread similar to that used in C clamps . It is designed for repeated use which would wear out a standard thread.
+Jeff Elsom thankyou.
Your large 3 leg puller with the spring is most likely a Snap On. I have one that looks just like it.
Do you think the aluminum pulley was a later recasting to replace a cracked/broken original cast iron one??
The lathe I have has an odd bespoke method of belt drive which means I can't put a guard on it so I jade decides to enclose the motor and one of the pulleys in a cupboard and the other pulley behind the lathe to try and keep it out the way. The one problem I have is because of the age it does not have a guard for change gears any idea what I should do about this?
I had to take my fly wheel off to replace pulley. I did mark the shaft to line back up. Do you have any advice and it’s a 9”c south bend
Good tutorial mrpete. Are we going to see you on the Segway ? :-) Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Great video! NOT boring!
Excellent subject matter.
as alway,s i learn something everytime i watch one of you,re videos good thing you didn,t use a blue tool it would,ve bunr alumnium up quick i have pulled hundred,s of pulley,s never hove come across a tapered pin like that you,re idea for backup plate was ingenous as good as a brg splitter
I'm glad you liked it thanks
What is the safe way to replace pulleys?
Im in the process of rebuilding a 5hp motor for my air compressor and like an idiot I used my 3 jaw puller set in the belt grooves. The 8" pulley is cast iron so after just a few cranks of torque it broke out a nice lemon wedge. $50 mistake. Had I placed the puller through the center holes closer to the shaft (which I did on second try) all would have been fine. It's a sheaved pulley though so any advice on getting that out? I will need it for the replacement.
Not sure what do you mean by a sheaved pulley
Are those big dimples in the large Aluminum pulley there for balancing the pulley while it's rotating?
Yes, they took out some metal on the heavy side to balance it out.
some times it helps to pull toward you and then give it a berry brisk hit with a small hammer
Yes
I've found common setscrews a poor way of fastening parts to a shaft. Tightening the screw puts a dimple in the shaft, making the part difficult to remove. Instead, drill a shallow hole in the shaft and lock the part with a dog-point setscrew.
Thank you and well explained I enjoyed your video ....
👍
Great informative video.......Thanks very much!
Thanks
I got what I came for thanks! ( tapered pin info removal )
Thanks Mr Peterson
Would you ever use penetrating oil on a tough pulley? Thank you for the video.
Jim, I've never had much luck with penetrating oil, but everything helps. The best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission oil and acetone (filch a little of your wife's nail polish remover if you don't have any in the shop). Acetone isn't in commercial penetrating oils 'cause it's flammable, evaporates very quickly, and attacks most plastics and paints. As DrFiero mentions, you can have a real mess on your hands with unseen damage making the pulley very difficult to remove. Be patient, getting it apart can be very trying. Work in stages with different methods of attack.. try not to make it worse. I have reached the point where you have to decide if it would be better to save the shaft or save the pulley. Even if you have to use drastic methods like DrFiero did, you may be able to save the shaft or pulley for reuse by welding or turning a repair sleeve.
Thank you!
Jim
+Aceroadholder
You must never have used "Kroil" then.
57cpdvl
Yes, but it won't work on components that have seized and stress welded themselves together. Kroil isn't magic, but it is the best penetrating oil commercially available...though it isn't as good as the acetone/ATF mix.
www.cyclefish.com/forums/topic/132611/penetrating-oils-which-works-best-on-rusted-nuts-amp-bolts
+Aceroadholder
No kind of oil will free a friction weld. I wasn't implying it would. Time to choose the more valuable part and sacrifice the other then, like you said. I'll have to try that 50/50 mix. Thanks for the tip. And remember… "If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!" Lol!
Maybe he wasn’t cheap. But just frugal?
It looks like the inside of the guard should be safety orange, and the outside safety yellow.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
thanks again video keep them up
At least OSHA has not yet come into our garage. Not that their is anything wrong with OSHA, they protect the careless and ignorant and everyone else. Keep on keeping on.
There is definitely something wrong with osha… they inhibit the expiration of morons who then continue to pollute the gene pool!
is that what they do? Workplace safety was increasing at similar rates before and after OSHA.
Keep up the goood work! ;)
AutoZone and the chain parts stores will loan you a pular set for free after paying a refundable deposit
thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching
The add is telling the truth, Scotts men are cheap they will tell you themselves!
They weren't very far off when they're suggesting that Scott's are cheap. We are cheap.
....Talking ? You always talk just the right amount ! ...Double set screws...pretty common on big industrial equipment...dimple the shaft first of course.....
Pullers...I have at least 8-10...even a small one for correctly removing the battery cables...!
AND...never use impact tools to drive the forcing screw !
Actually, you made a mistake by saying that the mobile tip of the big puller would be lost in one day in a mechanical classroom.
This tip would not even reach the classroom. It would be lost in the receiving-shipping room of this school....
I like the crack when I press out something. M
Yes lol
Funny I have the same lathe
Fingers?
I got one that will need to be cut
Hoot!
Mon!
enjoyed
You can thank OSHA for the worthless pin punch too.
Was this lathe made before osha? I have one machine that was made way before osha. I'm not really sure. Now I must look it up. LOL take care
+Tom Wilcox Wikipedia says OSHA was formed in 1971, so ya, way before...
+Richard Haisley How is that??? I have some Civil War vintage Pin Punches, and if you use them wrong, they will bend too.
+trollforge They didn't have tool steel back then. I had punches made in the 50's and 60's that wouldn't bend.
Richard Haisley
Fair enough!!!
Having a healthy fear of the machine you are working on is the best Safety you can get.This is the problem you put a safety guard on a machine and people think it is safe, and then treat the machine with out that healthy level of fear. Even with a guard or any safety item that machine will kill or maim you and not care that it did. The safety you need is your brain and some healthy level of fear for you machine. A belt guard will not save you from you doing something wrong. People are not being taught proper machine safety and the well meaning people in the Safety portion of the Government think they can save every one with more and more safety. I would love to see a test one shop open belts and the training is this machine will kill or maim you be careful and another shop with all the safety items with no safety training. See after a year what will happen.
Indeed this is a good point the application of guards stops you from thinking about the dangers as much
My lathe is a 1920s IXL lathe no guards or plastic guards I respect it I respect the dangers I will make sure not to get anyware near any moving part whereas is I had a guard I would lose the sense of danger.
Not a fan of this belt guard idea Mr Pete222. Clean it up but leave vintage equipment original and keep the kids away.
thank you so much for posting this video. PLEASE stop talking so much and do the work. the comment is constructive . Mechanically minded know what is going on. Thanks again for the video.