On the bit of glass around the badge, heat the sealant up and attach a tube small enough to go under the glass and squirt some behind. I've done it and it works. Good job though.
My dogs going nuts whilst I’m watching this with your Ring doorbell going off all the time!! He thinks someone’s at our door 🤣🤣. Great video looking forward to the end result.
N0w the man has given me the confidence to fit windows in van thank you 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good job mate. me and my Dad covered his ford transit 7 years ago unfortunately he didn't get to use for he died of bowel cancer aged 62. I know you've been there mate it's not nice. Anyway like yourself i used a jigsaw with metal blade for windows but you should use the masking tape cutting strips all around the windows and pull them tight for a better seal all round rather than just the top. Using the spray glue is fun when carpeting the walls. I'll keep and eye on your progress, Good luck 👍
All PU adhesive/sealers come in sealed tubes as they moisture cure. A few things i would say is 1 internal trim needs the join to be at the bottom so any water/moisture that gets in there has a way to escape. 2 need more adhesive around the window, the bead you put around that window was only just higher than the internal trim so could cause leaks and a bad bond (you should not have cut the tab off the nozzle as thats a depth gauge) 3 glass should be flush with the raised part of the bodywork around the window aperture not lower than. 4 seal the bare metal around the cut with epoxy primer/sealer to stop it from rusting or apply a small amount of the window adhesive around the cut before putting the trims on, this also helps keep the trim in place/from falling off with the temp changes inside the van would also benefit from some adhesive around the right hand side of the, area around the VW badge as slamming the door could cause the glass to shatter because its unsupported. I would also recommend using genuine glass over the aftermarket stuff which is normally a poor fit and not as good quality.
Hello Liam. Many thanks for the vid. Can I just add some labour saving advice please? Leave your van parked off the M62 Huddersfield and when you return your side panels will have been removed. Turn it into a static at the same time! Thank me later and good luck. Love and best wishes.
Liam it’s good to see you trying another challenge and using it to a good cause at the end all the best will enjoy the videos p.s when your home can your turn your ring doorbell notifications off as my dog goes mad when it comes through on camera 👍😄😄😄😄🐶🐶🐶
Hi Liam, we are converting vans everyday, regarding the bonding, we generally get closer to the edge of the glazing and not the hole, this way the edge of the glass is supported, as long as you have a continuous bead you have no problem with leaks. You will find some glass is not quite perfect profile so bonding closer to the edge allows it to pull in. Going closer to the hole cut out will allow water behind all the glass outside of the bonding and you will see dry water spots in the future. The idea of the little tit on the nozzle is to run around the inside of the windscreen aperture when used for car windscreens, makes the bead more accurate as there is only a small bonding area when doing windscreens. Don’t go to close to the edge of the glazing if you choose this way, you don’t want the bonding to ooze out of the edge, just about an inch inside the edge of the glass where possible is usually good. Hope this helps and of course this is just the way we do it, never had any issues
Brilliant and detailed comment, I’ll be honest, I only watched the justkampers video on the install. Your way makes a lot more sense 👌also, I fit a side one yesterday and the glass did need pulling in a bit, the back ones fit lovely, but the side felt it was rocking, I got it back in the end but your way would of been easier
You are supposed to put the silicone on the edge of the glass to stop the water getting in. You have put the silicone round that rubber gasket. That is for sealing the rough edge inside not to seal the window.
the seal, when you've put it on the joint should really be at the bottom, but i love the "i'm going to give it a go and see how things turn out" attitude, if you never try you never know if you can do it or not 👍
@@thegardenroomguru if you look at any vehicle, the seam goes at the bottom of the joint, be they doors or windows, it's all about drainage as the water will seep away at the bottom and drain, rather than possibly finding an entry point at the top and then working it's way all the way around the seal not knocking your efforts liam, just going forward it's the little things that as i've said, everyones got to start somewhere and i would never have the courage to do something like this
I get that, but they seem to be welded joints And if you’ve got moisture and need to dispel it, you’ve already got a problem Maybe overthinking on my behalf
@@thegardenroomguru right, so i've just got to the point where you are putting the window sealer thing on, yes, boil a kettle and put the tube in there to warm it up, it's SOOOO much simpler to apply then also, the professionals have battery powered sealant guns so it's just the push of a button and the stuff comes out don't worry, i made the same mistakes when i was fitting the side skirts and spoiler to my car so i feel your pain 🤣 you've done a much neater job than i would have done too, when that stuff sets it's not going to come off in a hurry
Imagine the window fell off while on the motorway... But I've used this Masterbond stuff on a small side window before and it held up well. On a back window though shoulda put more around the whole edge just in case.
If you're doing alot of these conversions, invest in a cheap plasma cutter to chop the panels out. Like a hot knife through butter all around, have each panel out in 2 minutes. And when bonding the glass in, you wipe the glass primer onto the glass intself, all around the black perimeter of the glass, that black painted section. Then run your bead of sealant around the opening on the bodywork side, bosh it in. Prime glass, sealant on panel 👌🏻
Little mental health tip: turn off phone notifications for all but the most important apps. The constant interruption causes anxiety and stress, even if you don't realise it.
Personally I like the soft start on the jiggy but you can turn it off. They really do need a cut off though incase you loose your grip. Enjoying the new content 👍
@@thegardenroomguru Having worked on Ambulance maintenance for many years I think you may have a problem when you fit this van out with lights inside the rear compartment. Although you can not see through the window from the outside in daylight at night when you have lights on inside the van you will probably be able to from the outside in. Just a thought you need to check out.
As highlighted. It is not a depth guide it is used as an edge if you were to put the glue onto the glass. Not used so much nowadays as the glue sits off the edge of the glass on many applications.
Alot of misstakes that made me go ooooh😊Hope the end result will be ok🥰
Watching and learning at the same time thank you 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
You made a great job of that back window. Looking forward to your progress with the rest of the build.
Brilliant to see start to finish , best video so far on how to do a build 👍
I love the use of the angle grinder to cut the gasket/bead.
So looking forward to this conversion.
The can opener end is to keep the water out while you warm it and also to stop the sealer from going off in the tube while in storage 👍
20:23 Luckly from the inside we can see through, so cute :)
On the bit of glass around the badge, heat the sealant up and attach a tube small enough to go under the glass and squirt some behind. I've done it and it works. Good job though.
Brilliant to watch great tradesman at his best
Habitable rooms don't have to be static. Really enjoying this, Ta.
Really looking forward to this new series mate. 👍🏻
My dogs going nuts whilst I’m watching this with your Ring doorbell going off all the time!! He thinks someone’s at our door 🤣🤣. Great video looking forward to the end result.
Lol mine too! Then she makes me jump when she leaps up every 5 minutes.. Turn it off Liam!!!
My dogs just when mad now I no why.
N0w the man has given me the confidence to fit windows in van thank you 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good job mate.
me and my Dad covered his ford transit 7 years ago unfortunately he didn't get to use for he died of bowel cancer aged 62.
I know you've been there mate it's not nice.
Anyway like yourself i used a jigsaw with metal blade for windows but you should use the masking tape cutting strips all around the windows and pull them tight for a better seal all round rather than just the top.
Using the spray glue is fun when carpeting the walls.
I'll keep and eye on your progress, Good luck 👍
Liam great job
If you get jobs wrong it doesn't matter some one is getting this van for £2 👍👍🍺🍺
Great job as always mate 👍👍
Liam you can turn the slow start off on that jigsaw. Look it up on UA-cam thank me later.🙊 I hated it at first but now i love it.
All PU adhesive/sealers come in sealed tubes as they moisture cure. A few things i would say is 1 internal trim needs the join to be at the bottom so any water/moisture that gets in there has a way to escape. 2 need more adhesive around the window, the bead you put around that window was only just higher than the internal trim so could cause leaks and a bad bond (you should not have cut the tab off the nozzle as thats a depth gauge) 3 glass should be flush with the raised part of the bodywork around the window aperture not lower than. 4 seal the bare metal around the cut with epoxy primer/sealer to stop it from rusting or apply a small amount of the window adhesive around the cut before putting the trims on, this also helps keep the trim in place/from falling off with the temp changes inside the van
would also benefit from some adhesive around the right hand side of the, area around the VW badge as slamming the door could cause the glass to shatter because its unsupported. I would also recommend using genuine glass over the aftermarket stuff which is normally a poor fit and not as good quality.
It is easier to cut the windows out with a jig saw with the sole plate removed to allow you to get into the corners.
Hello Liam. Many thanks for the vid. Can I just add some labour saving advice please? Leave your van parked off the M62 Huddersfield and when you return your side panels will have been removed. Turn it into a static at the same time!
Thank me later and good luck. Love and best wishes.
🤣
Great video,diy at is best.Handy bit of kit the milwaukee quick change grinder locking nut,got them on all my 3 makita grinders.
Liam check Further Fabrication his channel has done a VW crafter conversation and it’s sick, the bed his made on it is a masterpiece.
Liam it’s good to see you trying another challenge and using it to a good cause at the end all the best will enjoy the videos p.s when your home can your turn your ring doorbell notifications off as my dog goes mad when it comes through on camera 👍😄😄😄😄🐶🐶🐶
keep forgetting as im that used to it
Hi Liam, we are converting vans everyday, regarding the bonding, we generally get closer to the edge of the glazing and not the hole, this way the edge of the glass is supported, as long as you have a continuous bead you have no problem with leaks. You will find some glass is not quite perfect profile so bonding closer to the edge allows it to pull in. Going closer to the hole cut out will allow water behind all the glass outside of the bonding and you will see dry water spots in the future. The idea of the little tit on the nozzle is to run around the inside of the windscreen aperture when used for car windscreens, makes the bead more accurate as there is only a small bonding area when doing windscreens. Don’t go to close to the edge of the glazing if you choose this way, you don’t want the bonding to ooze out of the edge, just about an inch inside the edge of the glass where possible is usually good. Hope this helps and of course this is just the way we do it, never had any issues
Brilliant and detailed comment, I’ll be honest, I only watched the justkampers video on the install.
Your way makes a lot more sense 👌also, I fit a side one yesterday and the glass did need pulling in a bit, the back ones fit lovely, but the side felt it was rocking, I got it back in the end but your way would of been easier
Liam next time you do a window use a nibbler and warm your adhesive up it's a lot easier and no need to sand just clean and prime
finding this very good can't wait for more
You are supposed to put the silicone on the edge of the glass to stop the water getting in. You have put the silicone round that rubber gasket. That is for sealing the rough edge inside not to seal the window.
just following the instruction video I watched 🤷🏻♂️
No end to your talents Liam. Great start and looking forward to seeing the rest 💪
Good to see you again in the comments
Sadly Been really busy mate but love what you are doing. Keep it going
😘😘😘😘😘
Good stuff . But when you used the black duck tape . Put a peace of polystyrene underneath it on the edge act's as spring .👍
Why don't you just pour some primer into a small jar lid, so much easier. Good luck with it though looking forward to following your progress.
the seal, when you've put it on the joint should really be at the bottom, but i love the "i'm going to give it a go and see how things turn out" attitude, if you never try you never know if you can do it or not 👍
Why the bottom? Obviously I’m knew to this
@@thegardenroomguru if you look at any vehicle, the seam goes at the bottom of the joint, be they doors or windows, it's all about drainage as the water will seep away at the bottom and drain, rather than possibly finding an entry point at the top and then working it's way all the way around the seal
not knocking your efforts liam, just going forward it's the little things that
as i've said, everyones got to start somewhere and i would never have the courage to do something like this
I get that, but they seem to be welded joints
And if you’ve got moisture and need to dispel it, you’ve already got a problem
Maybe overthinking on my behalf
@@thegardenroomguru right, so i've just got to the point where you are putting the window sealer thing on, yes, boil a kettle and put the tube in there to warm it up, it's SOOOO much simpler to apply then
also, the professionals have battery powered sealant guns so it's just the push of a button and the stuff comes out
don't worry, i made the same mistakes when i was fitting the side skirts and spoiler to my car so i feel your pain 🤣
you've done a much neater job than i would have done too, when that stuff sets it's not going to come off in a hurry
It’s so alien to me 😬 it grips well, but still in my finger prints 🤣
Imagine the window fell off while on the motorway... But I've used this Masterbond stuff on a small side window before and it held up well. On a back window though shoulda put more around the whole edge just in case.
That masking tape definitely isn't going on the oakwood garden rooms kit list 🤣
🤣shi**
@@thegardenroomguru 🤣🤣👍🏼
That primer isn’t for the bare edges it’s for priming the flat painted edge prior to fitting the windows
Not according to their install video, they use it for both 🤷♂️
Hi Liam , didn’t I see you use a nibbler on your metal roof sheets ?
If you're doing alot of these conversions, invest in a cheap plasma cutter to chop the panels out. Like a hot knife through butter all around, have each panel out in 2 minutes. And when bonding the glass in, you wipe the glass primer onto the glass intself, all around the black perimeter of the glass, that black painted section. Then run your bead of sealant around the opening on the bodywork side, bosh it in. Prime glass, sealant on panel 👌🏻
Plasma cutter👀sounds more fun than a chainsaw 😎
@@thegardenroomguru 🙈😂 sci fi style
@@ep91monster you know I’m now googling it
@@ep91monster wtf! I’m getting one🤣
@@thegardenroomguru 😂knew you'd like it 😎
Little mental health tip: turn off phone notifications for all but the most important apps. The constant interruption causes anxiety and stress, even if you don't realise it.
Very interesting video. Thanks.
I’d of thought the joint would be best in the bottom so water can’t run inside and get trapped at the bottom of the window?
a few said this, but I guess you got water you have a problem and it'd run into the door too🤷🏻♂️
Personally I like the soft start on the jiggy but you can turn it off. They really do need a cut off though incase you loose your grip. Enjoying the new content 👍
I hate it, hate the soft start, hate the no trigger. But I 🥰Milwaukee 🤣
you need to setup your ring camera a better detection zone
its set for the garden mate, unfortunately I keep forgetting to put phone on silent
🏴👍
The thumbnail looks like you're gagging the beauty that is Jennifer.
Trust me, she’s a voice that can’t be hushed @jen
@@thegardenroomguru Having worked on Ambulance maintenance for many years I think you may have a problem when you fit this van out with lights inside the rear compartment. Although you can not see through the window from the outside in daylight at night when you have lights on inside the van you will probably be able to from the outside in. Just a thought you need to check out.
You cut off the bead depth guide off the tip 😂
not according to a guy who fits them, he says its to guide you around the aperture, he does it for a living so im going with his line
As highlighted. It is not a depth guide it is used as an edge if you were to put the glue onto the glass. Not used so much nowadays as the glue sits off the edge of the glass on many applications.
Grinder saftey !!! No finger guard haha
🇬🇧👍👍🌟⭐️🇬🇧👏
Omg learn to use a grinder
🤣