Hi. I am currently building this; thank you for your clear instructions. A useful tip is, having marked the side blocks with the lines within which you will cut the coil channels, dust the flat surface with chalk powder or some other pigment dust. This improves the contrast between the flat surface and the channel you are cutting and makes cutting a neat channel substantially easier. (If you use powdered charcoal, fire up the furnace in an open space first use; you don't want it to generate carbon monoxide, which or course is odourless and highly poisonous.)
I think what I like most about you Robert is that you earnestly explain how to make stuff that hitherto I'd only thought of in terms of expensive purchases made by large factories. It's not that the tech is so impossible, it's just the fact you replicate the processes of large factories on a regular table. It's most fascinating and somewhat empowering!
Really like how you come across to the public in a genuine way, Just subbed now as your uploads are intriguing after stumbling on one and browsing them over this lockdown period, Can't wait to see part 2 of your kiln, Thanks
It is one of my next projects as well, after the reflow oven. The warnings on the ceramic fiber blankets got me a bit spooked tho. It's always awesome watching your videos, the whistling and singing was actually nice. Forget the licence-free music and just whistle. So refreshing to see content that seems natural, not pretentious, with perfect ratio of information, examples, along with tips and tricks. Can't wait to watch part 2.
I was actually going to comment about the ceramic fiber blanket, but decided to wait and see if he notes anything about it in part two, I have worked with the stuff, and the basic things to keep in mind is to wear a respirator like a p100 or similar when working with it and seal the kiln up when done to prevent any loose fibers from escaping. You can also seal it with something like kiln wash to keep the loose fibers at bay... Also I know there are biodegradable versions of ceramic wool that is not that dangerous for your lungs, but if my memory serves me right, I believe it stops being biodegradable once you have had it up to temperature, so you would still want to seal it up. Not that dangerous stuff, it just needs to be respected and handled properly...
The warnings really apply if you are working with this stuff all day every day - if you do the odd job and never disturb it a mask and gloves will do you just fine and as you putting it on after the brick and then putting a case on that there isn't even a need to seal it
Looking forward to part 2 with great interest. Get some fine silica sand and you also have a solder paste surface mount oven. Much lower temperatures but it gives you a multi purpose oven.
Well done! There are similar how-to-do-its on UA-cam, but you have provided supporting information for the design choices, specific to your lab projects. I love your scavenging spirit as well! Thanks for sharing your fun!
Some years ago, my grandparents lived in a very rural area and had a wood and coal burning stove. If you were careless loading coal into it , you could damage the firebrick. Easy to replace , but easily broken as well. Getting an extra or two is a good idea. I was part of a crew that built a gas fired outdoor kiln for a college arts department . It was wrapped with that ceramic "cotton" and the shell was made from old ductwork. A little kiln like the one you're building would have many uses...for high school or small college labs or art departments...
Nice efficient design. I like it! One tip on choosing a PID controller. The programable ones cost more ( $80 vs $25 US ) but can do ramp and soak cycles. Very useful for many jobs.
oooohhh...I've been contemplating building one of these for heat treating knives, and now have a newfound interest in ceramics. Great video Thanks (I think some sheet metal from an old microwave may be getting repurposed for mine) might also coat the inside with ITC-100HT Ceramic Coating
I know some people make diy kilns completely out of plaster. I happen to have some laying around, do you know if it can be used as a binder for the bricks, or should i get a product like yours that's advertised/rated for the temperature?
He he he! As soon as I opened it I knew who to send it to. Lol 😂 I might pop down soon. Need to pop in to Bioteknik for a laptop. I’ll see if you’re in 🤓
Robert, you're a gem. This kind of actionable and meaningful information is so fantastic. You've convinced me to subscribe as I'd like to both see / learn more and interact more.
Great video! How does using full-thickness bricks compare to using the half-thickness bricks plus insulation wrap? Might want to wear a filter mask when making ceramic dust. Silica particles in the lungs make scar tissue, which doesn't work well for gas exchange. Presumably a minor exposure, however how many minor exposures are you going to have... Changing a mask filter is rather easier than replacing lungs.
Hi Robert, thank you so much for the many varied videos that you have posted. I envy your energy and enthusiasm in the projects you choose to share. I’m a jeweller by trade and when time permits I have toyed with the enameling process. To date , any pieces I have made have been done using a torch and I would very much like to build a small kiln , similar to the one you have built. I have the tools and it would be well within my skill level to build it as you have suggested ( I have looked for a second hand unit but the market is extremely limited here in Ireland) I’m sourcing the materials at the moment and am having a bit of bother sourcing the pod controller with thermocouple and solid state relay you mentioned in part 1 of your videos ( estimate cost 30 pounds )…. I apparently could build one using an arduino but would rather not get drawn down that rabbit hole at the moment ( have a couple of arduino projects on the go as it is). Could you possible give me your source for the above mention pid controller and I can contact them to arrange shipment. Thank you again for all you really enjoyable videos and I look forward to many many more. Ed P.S. May 2022 bring the answers to many of the unanswered question that you no doubt have in abundance.
I share your love of making things, so while I do agree about the typical portland cement based brick recipes out there, what do you say to making them from CAC cement? I've scored a bag of Ciment Fondu, and thinking of doing an aircrete CAC brick, or even casting a more substantial structure, maybe even with the coil channels casted in
Thank u for making this I need to get a kiln for my latest craft obsession but can’t afford the 1.5 grand for a premade one I’m going to attempt to make one with your instructions
I have a question. I'd like to add another row of bricks to the sides to make it twice as tall. Is there anything else I need to do to the design to compensate for the additional space? I know this is an older video and I've watched the video several times and read through the majority of the comments but didn't see the answer. I'm using it for glass and I'd rather not lay a delicate piece on it's side if it can be helped. Thank you for your time and your videos
no mate - it will cook - you could use perlite etc mixes if you don't want to splash out on the ceramic fibre but this is a workhorse piece of kit and for the extra few pence you will probably regret that decision sooner or later
Nice bit o kit Robert! I am doing some research but so far no one insulates kilns with a vacuum gap it would be more complex but for higher temps IMO worth it.
@@ThinkingandTinkering I just want it insulated with vacuum sheathing the heating chamber could be at atmospheric pressure apparently it is either not economically feasible, practical or no one has thought of it and had the will to make it.
the door and more importantly the electrics - knowing about the electrics means you can recondition old kilns that can be bought for very little indeed
I bought an old gas fired kiln to scrap it and get some fire bricks. Cost me $50 and I got a whole bunch of those bricks plus other bit of ceramic kiln furniture. I was told those bricks are rated 1300 deg C.
that is awesome mate - I bought my kiln second hand because the electrics and coils were shot - the whole thing cost me £250 the new kiln price was £7,000 - it's worth knowing this stuff even if never build one - reconditioning one is a piece of cake and the same rules apply
Great video. I just built a crucible with home made mix of various ingredients and was amazed at it could handle well over 2300F, and I didn't use any of the online suggestions for forge or kiln making - I looked at what the properties are of each compound and figured what would be a good mixture for strenght and heat resistance. I have one question for you, have you considered calcium silicate? I stil have proably 1,000 sq ft of 1/4" asbestos, which is undeniably one of the mest materials for this (as an outer insulator, then covered by a sealant such as drywall, or fiberglass insulation (only reaches about 700-1000F here).. before all the alarmists start talking shit about asbestos, it isn't unsave when it is used properly and you aren't smashing it with a hammer and creating dust - 99%+ times when you hear it i a problem in buildings - it's all BS unless they were doing demolition, and then it can be a problem. Just wait until you find out the product that replaced ti is EVEN WORSE, the silicates, which case a much worse disease than asbestos ever could. I want to make my own refractory and am torn between what to use. I want to five it reflect as much heat as possible and I've decided to go with MgCO3 (decomposes at 750F to MgO - when in the kiln to dry), Al2O3, and diatomaceous earth flour (99.2% pure SiO2), TiO2 (2%), Fe2O3) (1.5-2.5% (high refractory index) and finally some Zirconium oxide at 2-4% which has insanely high heat refractivity index - Oh, I also plan on using EXTREMELY fine hard wood ash that has been leached of at least 90% of the solubles (sodium/potassiums) to give some Ca(OH)2 among many other trace minerals, but it is important to keep the level of CaO low in a refractory or else it will melt and your bricks will crumble. You should really do an experimment making your won refractory. I made a crucible with the wire inside the housing and it works great, I can control temp from 200-2100F and only melt metals I want as the unmelted are easy to remove.
mate - you make some really good points and I love your suggestions but you are not going to get many folks to agree about asbestos - there is just too much of a meme about that one
@@ThinkingandTinkering I'm glad you have the backbone to agree!! I know people who have been using it their entire life (80+ years old) and never had a problem. It seems like there are so many TRULY ignorant people who are parrots of what they see on the idiotbox. It is a truly sad state of affairs.
I, too, would like to make my own refractory and am not persuaded by what I've seen on youtube. I would love to see Robert make a video on a good insulating refractory recipe. I know I'd be able to trust that recipe.
Danish guy in Denmark here. Cool video. I've been looking for afordable controller stuff online "for ever", and can't find anything even close to the prices, you mention. Would you mind sharing a bit of info on where you found yours, or/and maybe the exact words, I should use in my search.?
I would think so - and mate I have worked with a lot of heat control equipment I have never seen one in a kiln - ovens - yes and lots of low temp stuff - by which mean less than 600 degrees C - but not so much in kilns
@@ThinkingandTinkering yes duration wouldn't warrant having that set-up thinking about it,used to do a lot with ceramics and glazes that requires overnight firings,thinking old ceramic insulation+if the properties of a glaze might be useful in a conductive metal oxide sense!:)
can I use pumice brick instead of fire brick? I can not find the fire brick like you show but the griddle cleaning pumice stone is readily available...
you can get it on eBay mate www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INSULATION-BRICKS-230-x-114-x-64mm-SWP140-26-grade-INSULATING-FIREBRICK/303150318833?hash=item46952ac4f1:g:arAAAOSw1ZBUvoR9 pumice will spall
nice build, what do think about, kaolin, quicklime, graphite, and silica carbide powder. mixed and formed into sheets? any thoughts? i'm about to experiment with this mixture.
The quicklime might bite you, there is a good chance it will lower the melting point of the kaolin.. normally I am all about making your own stuff, but in this case unless you feel like spending the time and money experimenting, just buy the proper refractory products to suit your needs, it truly gives superior results.
@@HeimoVN I need something like a putty or mortar that could thickly coat red fire brick. I have lots of bricks lying around but i know they wont hold up like a refractory. as an outer insulation layer however they'll give a heavier duty forge. I need something more solid than kaowool or kiln bricks. maybe a steel mesh with just the clay, graphite, and silica carbide.
sorry I read this post after replying to you first post - your best bet is kiln lining if you want heavy duty all that will happen to your red brick is that it will spall after a few firings unless you coat it thickly - in which case just use the right brick but use a hard shelf to spread the load
Thanks You just planted a seed.. Was looking at kilns few years ago for hobby making for glass minerals but price and choice put me off Now you give me an alternative..
a lick of paint won't help - the pink zircon is used to prevent stuff sticking to the kiln floor it doesn't raise the temp range - for that you need to get the brick in the range or it will just melt or spall
Robert Murray-Smith on his videos he paints the kale wool to prevent wool degradation. Very cheap furnace and last longer with less outlay of funds. Many times use to do cast iron used in moulds. I’ve seen a lot of styles his just seems to work and he was a foundry worker.
I am looking forward to part 2 to this video, I hope you go into detail on the electronics. I want to build this one so bad that I even created a folder in google bookmarks called Kiln. Love it mate... Oh, also What did you call that grey silicone tube paste stuff?
Great project!! Looking forward towards the next part. But please please please use protection for your lungs when cutting and using those bricks and blankets. Its nasty stuff.
Have you heard of red mercury and some of its strange behaviors. It's used as an antenna of radio frequencies among other things. But it is attracted to gold and repels garlic. But allegedly and I've seen very good experiments showing it as transparent in a mirror. I'd like to hear your thoughts and maybe see some content on the subject?? Please!?
1260° so you can't melt steel then? The graph on wiki seems to suggest steel austenite a 1536°C what do we need for insulation for this?? Ps thanks for teaching so much
you can build a kiln to any required temp all you need is the right rated insulation construction details are the same - it is rare - I have found - to want to exceed 1200 which is why I chose this temp range but if you want higher - do what I said on the video buy higher temp rated stuff
@@ThinkingandTinkering aye, that wire can be found in old toasters can't it? Rather than buying, repurposimg, like you said? Love the content, sunscreens subscribed for maybe a year now. Always watch. Did that chlorophyll solar cell of yours ever go anywhere?
Ineresting, I do not understand why you cut the brick in half there was no need leaving them whole and just rebating the ends would have provided higher insulation.
Hi. I am currently building this; thank you for your clear instructions.
A useful tip is, having marked the side blocks with the lines within which you will cut the coil channels, dust the flat surface with chalk powder or some other pigment dust. This improves the contrast between the flat surface and the channel you are cutting and makes cutting a neat channel substantially easier. (If you use powdered charcoal, fire up the furnace in an open space first use; you don't want it to generate carbon monoxide, which or course is odourless and highly poisonous.)
I think what I like most about you Robert is that you earnestly explain how to make stuff that hitherto I'd only thought of in terms of expensive purchases made by large factories.
It's not that the tech is so impossible, it's just the fact you replicate the processes of large factories on a regular table. It's most fascinating and somewhat empowering!
glad you like it mate - cheers
Informative, as usual, entertaining, as usual and you always whistle my favourite tune. Many thanks again Robert.
lol - I only noticed I was whistling in the edit lol
The simplicity of the build makes this great.
I am aiming for something anyone could build mate
JUST LOVE THE WHISTLING BIT.
lol - cheers mate
Love listening to your explanations !!! Great video. May God bless you.
Really like how you come across to the public in a genuine way, Just subbed now as your uploads are intriguing after stumbling on one and browsing them over this lockdown period, Can't wait to see part 2 of your kiln, Thanks
cheers mate
It is one of my next projects as well, after the reflow oven. The warnings on the ceramic fiber blankets got me a bit spooked tho. It's always awesome watching your videos, the whistling and singing was actually nice. Forget the licence-free music and just whistle. So refreshing to see content that seems natural, not pretentious, with perfect ratio of information, examples, along with tips and tricks. Can't wait to watch part 2.
I was actually going to comment about the ceramic fiber blanket, but decided to wait and see if he notes anything about it in part two, I have worked with the stuff, and the basic things to keep in mind is to wear a respirator like a p100 or similar when working with it and seal the kiln up when done to prevent any loose fibers from escaping. You can also seal it with something like kiln wash to keep the loose fibers at bay... Also I know there are biodegradable versions of ceramic wool that is not that dangerous for your lungs, but if my memory serves me right, I believe it stops being biodegradable once you have had it up to temperature, so you would still want to seal it up. Not that dangerous stuff, it just needs to be respected and handled properly...
The warnings really apply if you are working with this stuff all day every day - if you do the odd job and never disturb it a mask and gloves will do you just fine and as you putting it on after the brick and then putting a case on that there isn't even a need to seal it
This is why i love watching your videos great work thank you
cheers mate
Wonderful Kiln chat and craft. Robert is on my absolutely "Have to watch list". All thumbs up friend.
thanks for the kind words mate - cheers
Looking forward to part 2 with great interest. Get some fine silica sand and you also have a solder paste surface mount oven. Much lower temperatures but it gives you a multi purpose oven.
it is a workhorse piece of kit mate
Well done! There are similar how-to-do-its on UA-cam, but you have provided supporting information for the design choices, specific to your lab projects. I love your scavenging spirit as well! Thanks for sharing your fun!
glad you liked it mate
I do like your presentation style. Brisk and informative! A pleasure to listen to. Thanks 👍
thanks for the kind words mate - cheers
“Vermiculite..forget about it .” Love it. Watching it again.
lol - awesome mate
Your Videos are the 'Beast' of "How to", Love them man!
Please keep them coming!!!!!
cheers mate lol
Great job my friend 👍👍👍 , you are on the right way !!
cheers mate
All round to Rob's for pizza!
Nice project, good to see a budget build of kit that can cost hundreds to buy
for sure mate
once again another great idea being brought to life.thanks
cheers mate
Some years ago, my grandparents lived in a very rural area and had a wood and coal burning stove. If you were careless loading coal into it , you could damage the firebrick. Easy to replace , but easily broken as well. Getting an extra or two is a good idea.
I was part of a crew that built a gas fired outdoor kiln for a college arts department .
It was wrapped with that ceramic "cotton" and the shell was made from old ductwork.
A little kiln like the one you're building would have many uses...for high school or small college labs or art departments...
true enough mate - thanks for taking the time to post
You are such a wealth of ingenuity and ideas. Have a nice day :-)
Thank you! You too!
Once again simple and easy to follow! Brilliant! Thanks Rob!
glad you liked it mate - cheers
Nice efficient design. I like it! One tip on choosing a PID controller. The programable ones cost more ( $80 vs $25 US ) but can do ramp and soak cycles. Very useful for many jobs.
Tempering knives and so on right?
@@Barskor1 Yes. I use slow temperature ramps for carbonizing and graphitizing battery materials.
very true mate and nice tip cheers
@@William_Hada Slow temp ramps so the volatiles outgassing does as little change or damage as possible?
Yay! Exactly the project I wanted to see! Thanks!!
cheers mate
He reminds me of Fred Dibnah but without the scaffold. Love the videos keep them coming.
lol - cheers mate
Wonderfully clear step-by-step tutorial! What brand is the black adhesive? Thanks
One for me in a few weeks once I've got a few other bits. I got a lovely piece of steel from an old cooker today. Perfect for my hotplate top.
awesome mate
oooohhh...I've been contemplating building one of these for heat treating knives, and now have a newfound interest in ceramics. Great video Thanks (I think some sheet metal from an old microwave may be getting repurposed for mine)
might also coat the inside with
ITC-100HT Ceramic Coating
awesome mate - I am a bit pushed for space so I got rid of a microwave case just recently - I am sorry I did that now lol
Great idea Robert.
I think I'll try getting one squeezed into an old microwave outer chassis.
Enjoyed this very much, looking forward to the next stages and nice to see someone who reuses other materials,as I do the same
glad you liked it mate - cheers
I know some people make diy kilns completely out of plaster. I happen to have some laying around, do you know if it can be used as a binder for the bricks, or should i get a product like yours that's advertised/rated for the temperature?
I love all the tools on the wall 😂
Have you drawn round them so you know what’s missing? 😎
lol - as you know there is just me so when I see an empty hook I know what's missing - thank you for the card by the way! awesome card lol
He he he! As soon as I opened it I knew who to send it to. Lol 😂
I might pop down soon. Need to pop in to Bioteknik for a laptop. I’ll see if you’re in 🤓
IMPROVISE IMPROVISE IMPROVISE. Amazing what the Mind can come up with if there is a will.
for sure mate -lol
Perfect! This is just what I needed.
awesome mate
Robert, you're a gem. This kind of actionable and meaningful information is so fantastic. You've convinced me to subscribe as I'd like to both see / learn more and interact more.
awesome mate - thank you for subbing - it is well appreciated
I forsaw this video as soon as you started into clay, but I'm a little ahead of you. I've already constructed and finished my electric forge!
awesome mate
Great video!
How does using full-thickness bricks compare to using the half-thickness bricks plus insulation wrap?
Might want to wear a filter mask when making ceramic dust. Silica particles in the lungs make scar tissue, which doesn't work well for gas exchange. Presumably a minor exposure, however how many minor exposures are you going to have... Changing a mask filter is rather easier than replacing lungs.
Hi Robert, thank you so much for the many varied videos that you have posted. I envy your energy and enthusiasm in the projects you choose to share. I’m a jeweller by trade and when time permits I have toyed with the enameling process. To date , any pieces I have made have been done using a torch and I would very much like to build a small kiln , similar to the one you have built.
I have the tools and it would be well within my skill level to build it as you have suggested ( I have looked for a second hand unit but the market is extremely limited here in Ireland)
I’m sourcing the materials at the moment and am having a bit of bother sourcing the pod controller with thermocouple and solid state relay you mentioned in part 1 of your videos ( estimate cost 30 pounds )…. I apparently could build one using an arduino but would rather not get drawn down that rabbit hole at the moment ( have a couple of arduino projects on the go as it is).
Could you possible give me your source for the above mention pid controller and I can contact them to arrange shipment.
Thank you again for all you really enjoyable videos and I look forward to many many more.
Ed
P.S. May 2022 bring the answers to many of the unanswered question that you no doubt have in abundance.
Hi again Robert,
On further searches, I have found a source for the parts.
Thanks again.
Ed
Love the way you think Robert. Will the firebricks stand up to power tools, like circular saw, drill and angle grinder?
IRC the dust will kill them as it is aluminum oxide but you don't need to use them you can gouge the brick with a fingernail.
they are really soft mate - you are not going to need to use power tools I assure you
@@ThinkingandTinkering Fair 'nuff. Thanks both.
@@MiniLuv-1984 Your welcome Benny.
I share your love of making things, so while I do agree about the typical portland cement based brick recipes out there, what do you say to making them from CAC cement? I've scored a bag of Ciment Fondu, and thinking of doing an aircrete CAC brick, or even casting a more substantial structure, maybe even with the coil channels casted in
Thank u for making this I need to get a kiln for my latest craft obsession but can’t afford the 1.5 grand for a premade one
I’m going to attempt to make one with your instructions
I have a question. I'd like to add another row of bricks to the sides to make it twice as tall. Is there anything else I need to do to the design to compensate for the additional space? I know this is an older video and I've watched the video several times and read through the majority of the comments but didn't see the answer. I'm using it for glass and I'd rather not lay a delicate piece on it's side if it can be helped. Thank you for your time and your videos
Hey Rob, would a layer of Starlight be beneficial as an extra insulator? The cost of baking soda, cornflour and glue is pretty low.
no mate - it will cook - you could use perlite etc mixes if you don't want to splash out on the ceramic fibre but this is a workhorse piece of kit and for the extra few pence you will probably regret that decision sooner or later
I’m looking into working with metal clay (And pottery clay, in general.) Would this work well for that?
Excellent, thanks for sharing, looks like a great design.
cheers mate - glad you like it
nice! question.. what is the thickness of the bricks your are using....? 60/80mm ?
Nice bit o kit Robert! I am doing some research but so far no one insulates kilns with a vacuum gap it would be more complex but for higher temps IMO worth it.
you can get vacuum ovens easily enough - never heard of a vacuum kiln though
@@ThinkingandTinkering I just want it insulated with vacuum sheathing the heating chamber could be at atmospheric
pressure apparently it is either not economically feasible, practical or no one has thought of it and had the will to make it.
Looks good, can't wait for part 2 an how to figure out how to attach a door
the door and more importantly the electrics - knowing about the electrics means you can recondition old kilns that can be bought for very little indeed
I bought an old gas fired kiln to scrap it and get some fire bricks. Cost me $50 and I got a whole bunch of those bricks plus other bit of ceramic kiln furniture. I was told those bricks are rated 1300 deg C.
that is awesome mate - I bought my kiln second hand because the electrics and coils were shot - the whole thing cost me £250 the new kiln price was £7,000 - it's worth knowing this stuff even if never build one - reconditioning one is a piece of cake and the same rules apply
Hi Robert. Could you share some links to the components. Love the channel 🙂 thanks.
Awesome! I asked for this video!
glad to oblige mate - cheers
Great video. I just built a crucible with home made mix of various ingredients and was amazed at it could handle well over 2300F, and I didn't use any of the online suggestions for forge or kiln making - I looked at what the properties are of each compound and figured what would be a good mixture for strenght and heat resistance.
I have one question for you, have you considered calcium silicate? I stil have proably 1,000 sq ft of 1/4" asbestos, which is undeniably one of the mest materials for this (as an outer insulator, then covered by a sealant such as drywall, or fiberglass insulation (only reaches about 700-1000F here).. before all the alarmists start talking shit about asbestos, it isn't unsave when it is used properly and you aren't smashing it with a hammer and creating dust - 99%+ times when you hear it i a problem in buildings - it's all BS unless they were doing demolition, and then it can be a problem. Just wait until you find out the product that replaced ti is EVEN WORSE, the silicates, which case a much worse disease than asbestos ever could.
I want to make my own refractory and am torn between what to use. I want to five it reflect as much heat as possible and I've decided to go with MgCO3 (decomposes at 750F to MgO - when in the kiln to dry), Al2O3, and diatomaceous earth flour (99.2% pure SiO2), TiO2 (2%), Fe2O3) (1.5-2.5% (high refractory index) and finally some Zirconium oxide at 2-4% which has insanely high heat refractivity index - Oh, I also plan on using EXTREMELY fine hard wood ash that has been leached of at least 90% of the solubles (sodium/potassiums) to give some Ca(OH)2 among many other trace minerals, but it is important to keep the level of CaO low in a refractory or else it will melt and your bricks will crumble.
You should really do an experimment making your won refractory. I made a crucible with the wire inside the housing and it works great, I can control temp from 200-2100F and only melt metals I want as the unmelted are easy to remove.
mate - you make some really good points and I love your suggestions but you are not going to get many folks to agree about asbestos - there is just too much of a meme about that one
@@ThinkingandTinkering I'm glad you have the backbone to agree!! I know people who have been using it their entire life (80+ years old) and never had a problem. It seems like there are so many TRULY ignorant people who are parrots of what they see on the idiotbox. It is a truly sad state of affairs.
I, too, would like to make my own refractory and am not persuaded by what I've seen on youtube. I would love to see Robert make a video on a good insulating refractory recipe. I know I'd be able to trust that recipe.
Danish guy in Denmark here. Cool video. I've been looking for afordable controller stuff online "for ever", and can't find anything even close to the prices, you mention. Would you mind sharing a bit of info on where you found yours, or/and maybe the exact words, I should use in my search.?
Would it fit with the wrapping inside a stainless mini fridge?:) thermal cut out bars are commonly used in kilns to control duration and temperature
I would think so - and mate I have worked with a lot of heat control equipment I have never seen one in a kiln - ovens - yes and lots of low temp stuff - by which mean less than 600 degrees C - but not so much in kilns
@@ThinkingandTinkering yes duration wouldn't warrant having that set-up thinking about it,used to do a lot with ceramics and glazes that requires overnight firings,thinking old ceramic insulation+if the properties of a glaze might be useful in a conductive metal oxide sense!:)
can I use pumice brick instead of fire brick? I can not find the fire brick like you show but the griddle cleaning pumice stone is readily available...
you can get it on eBay mate www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INSULATION-BRICKS-230-x-114-x-64mm-SWP140-26-grade-INSULATING-FIREBRICK/303150318833?hash=item46952ac4f1:g:arAAAOSw1ZBUvoR9
pumice will spall
hi how would it work for a lost wax kiln
Can't Hardly Wait the part 2 nice video
cheers mate - working on it
What about “starlite”, isn’t that cheap enough?
nice build, what do think about, kaolin, quicklime, graphite, and silica carbide powder. mixed and formed into sheets? any thoughts? i'm about to experiment with this mixture.
The quicklime might bite you, there is a good chance it will lower the melting point of the kaolin.. normally I am all about making your own stuff, but in this case unless you feel like spending the time and money experimenting, just buy the proper refractory products to suit your needs, it truly gives superior results.
@@HeimoVN I need something like a putty or mortar that could thickly coat red fire brick. I have lots of bricks lying around but i know they wont hold up like a refractory. as an outer insulation layer however they'll give a heavier duty forge. I need something more solid than kaowool or kiln bricks. maybe a steel mesh with just the clay, graphite, and silica carbide.
why mate? what are you planning to do?
sorry I read this post after replying to you first post - your best bet is kiln lining if you want heavy duty all that will happen to your red brick is that it will spall after a few firings unless you coat it thickly - in which case just use the right brick but use a hard shelf to spread the load
I just start looking for a Kiln since yesterday. So probably hold my breath for a while and see if you can get me so far that I make it myself 😁
awesome mate
Hi Rob, Do you happen to know how big is the Temperature gradient in your volume? Excellent content.
no but it is going to be pretty flat - that's a very small space
Awww you overtook me with the kilm, hahahaha. I planing to make a kilm for some time, but I never find the time to make it 🙁😄 huh. Anyway good job. 👍
cheers mate
Link to thermocouple/controller kit?
Thanks You just planted a seed..
Was looking at kilns few years ago for hobby making for glass minerals but price and choice put me off
Now you give me an alternative..
glad you liked it mate - cheers
@@ThinkingandTinkering once silly lockdown ended an shops open I'm on a mission... Then the tricky bit the heating side..
Pink zircon paint that luckygen uses to paint on the interior goes way up in temp. He does cast iron constantly.
a lick of paint won't help - the pink zircon is used to prevent stuff sticking to the kiln floor it doesn't raise the temp range - for that you need to get the brick in the range or it will just melt or spall
Robert Murray-Smith on his videos he paints the kale wool to prevent wool degradation. Very cheap furnace and last longer with less outlay of funds. Many times use to do cast iron used in moulds. I’ve seen a lot of styles his just seems to work and he was a foundry worker.
Beautiful!!
Just amazing as per thanks mate needed this one.
Glad to help mate
can't wait to see it in action!
cheers mate
I am looking forward to part 2 to this video, I hope you go into detail on the electronics. I want to build this one so bad that I even created a folder in google bookmarks called Kiln. Love it mate... Oh, also What did you call that grey silicone tube paste stuff?
it's a silicate putty and I got it on line - high temp silicate was my search term and up it popped
@@ThinkingandTinkering Oh ok, thanks
Building a kiln with Sir Anthony Hopkins!
What are the measurements for the u channel?
to fit the heating coil you either have or want to make
Where to get the bricks UK please
Ebay sells them. I was looking the other night
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INSULATION-BRICKS-230-x-114-x-64mm-SWP140-26-grade-INSULATING-FIREBRICK/303150318833?hash=item46952ac4f1:g:arAAAOSw1ZBUvoR9
Those fire bricks are extremely expensive in my country. But I will find it anyway.
cool mate
Genius!!
cheers mate
Great project!! Looking forward towards the next part. But please please please use protection for your lungs when cutting and using those bricks and blankets. Its nasty stuff.
Noted!
why not use one giant slab and cut out a hole?
expense and waste mate
Have you heard of red mercury and some of its strange behaviors. It's used as an antenna of radio frequencies among other things. But it is attracted to gold and repels garlic. But allegedly and I've seen very good experiments showing it as transparent in a mirror. I'd like to hear your thoughts and maybe see some content on the subject?? Please!?
yes - it's supposed to be a hoax
@@ThinkingandTinkering allegedly mate... It's in old Soviet era radio's and televisions. Cinnabar
Would be cool to use an old microwave ;) , very interesting yet again
That would be cool!
Kiln bricks are expensive and hard to find.
not that expensive mate - from £1.75 each on ebay
@@ThinkingandTinkering Alas ebay is NOT universal
Dont breathe the dust from those.
indeed
Next video: How to make a lab Kilt! In case our lab is in Scotland.
lol
Pizza oven :-)
lol
1260° so you can't melt steel then? The graph on wiki seems to suggest steel austenite a 1536°C what do we need for insulation for this??
Ps thanks for teaching so much
you can build a kiln to any required temp all you need is the right rated insulation construction details are the same - it is rare - I have found - to want to exceed 1200 which is why I chose this temp range but if you want higher - do what I said on the video buy higher temp rated stuff
@@ThinkingandTinkering aye, that wire can be found in old toasters can't it? Rather than buying, repurposimg, like you said?
Love the content, sunscreens subscribed for maybe a year now. Always watch.
Did that chlorophyll solar cell of yours ever go anywhere?
Elon Musk the best part is no part the best process is no process. Government Hmmm? Lessons we all should take to heart and mind.
for sure mate
Ineresting, I do not understand why you cut the brick in half there was no need leaving them whole and just rebating the ends would have provided higher insulation.
You say the heating wire is dirt cheap? Really? :-D It's $2 / meter !