When servicing any differential always break loose the fill plug first and make sure you can remove it. Fully. The reasoning is if your drain the fluid first, then for whatever reason you are unable to get the fill plug out you will not be able to refill the differential. So, always break loose fill plug first.
Couldn't agree more. On one of my cars it was impossible to get the fill bolt out. I had to do a lot of work so I could change the fluid. So always check the fill hole first.
It makes life a lot easier if you take your spare out first. Also power wash the rear end first and the bottom of the bed so there isn’t any debris to fall into your open differential.
I plan on doing this, but also buying a 3rd party cover that has a drain and fill plug as well as a level indicator window. Seems like an upgrade that James Dillard Dutton would have only dreamed of back in 1883.
There is a plug on the top side on front of differential. Make sure you take this out and clean it off of metal particulate. The plug acts as a magnet. Also, you can siphon out most of the fluid through the plug hole.
I put a replaceable gasket on mine last time ....never going back to the goop...no waiting to cure, no mess to clean off the diff or the cover ....just bolt on and go.
The W stands for “winter” not weight. Meaning it acts like a 75W140 acts like SAE 75 when cold and 140 when it’s hot. Just learned that a few months ago and thought I would pass it on 😂
Recommendations have now changed to 75 145w ive done it twice from new every 60,000km tow heavy and long so far 125,000km and oil looks good fordmaculocco channel says way early scheduled maintenence is critical on all fluids in this truck
The manual for 2017 f150 with an E-Locker says to change differential gear oil at 150,000 miles but I will do mine front and back at 60,000 like you. Cheap insurance especially in a high humidity climate.
There are no additives in this RedLine gear oil. It’s safe for my 2017 F150 e-locker diff. Different years and lockers take different oil. Be sure to consult your manual.
@@MagargeeFilms As the label states "for hypoid LS differentials" It will not hurt e-lockers, but it does have friction modifiers for clutch style LS diffs. I looked on Redlines website. 😉 Great video BTW!
Great informative video. I have a dumb question. When picking up the fluid in the store I need to buy “gear oil” correct? My manual calls for “rear axle fluid” and “synthetic axle lubricant” so I just wanted to make sure.
Great question. So “gear oil” is a generic term and can mean transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, or differential fluid. What you want is “differential fluid” Axle fluid is another name for differential fluid. They are the same.
Sorry to put a damper on your process but .... First of all if you are going to service the diff ,, service the diff. Clean it all. Use some sort of cleaner like alcohol or brake clean or varsol and spray all parts real good . Have both rear wheels of the ground and make sure vehicle is secured. Clean the mating surfaces spray the gears spin the wheels and clean some more. Air blow real good. There is a reason why the cover is shaped the way it is. Must use a gasket because the flow of oil will change when spinning. The cover shape is designed to direct the oil flow to the proper places. After servicing move truck slowly with no load to get oil everywhere. After test drive check for obvious leaks. Check several times afterwards.
Since it’s the E-locker, did you get the Hypoid 75/85? Did my 2018 rear differential at 42k miles, 3:55 E-locker (just cuz) and manual states 75/85 hypoid $30 a quart and since E-locker, no friction modifier needed
I just used the red line 75w85 diff fluid. I didn’t add additive because it’s an e locker and the dealer said I didn’t need it. Maybe if your truck is 4x4 or a different year, it might need additive.
wait to change the oil you do not have to remove all those screws unless it has a break or leak to change it you only remove the 2 screws, the fill and drain screws
Great question. You could certainly do that but there are some disadvantages; you won’t get all / as much of the old fluid out. It will be harder to see / remove metal shavings if any from grinding gears, and you won’t be able to visually inspect to inside of the differential for any other potential problems. Honestly I think the fluid extractor will be harder and take longer too. Plus it’s nice to know you have a fresh seal / gasket under the cover.
Fluid extractor took me about 10 minutes to get old fluid out, 5 minutes to add new fluid, and a couple of minutes to pour the old fluid out. Very quick, easy, and no mess.
@@craigjacobson158 that’s why you stay close to the edge, don’t put on too thick, and let it dry before you add fluid. If you’re careful, you’ll be fine.
I guess I could’ve re-used the gasket if i cleaned it really well and there weren’t any bends or cracks. But I had the gasket maker already, so I just went with that. I’d recommend gasket maker or a new gasket.
Based on forums it sounds like a lot of people do. Apparently the original spec was actually 75W140 so anything in between should be fine in theory. Personally, I don't mind going with a slightly different oil weight if it's cheaper or more readily available. Doesn't have to be bang on OEM spec.
If you don't have the confidence to do it yourself then yea, pay someone. Otherwise if you're reasonably handy then this is an easy job. With the money saved you could do the front diff and transfer case too.
When servicing any differential always break loose the fill plug first and make sure you can remove it. Fully. The reasoning is if your drain the fluid first, then for whatever reason you are unable to get the fill plug out you will not be able to refill the differential. So, always break loose fill plug first.
Great tip!
Couldn't agree more. On one of my cars it was impossible to get the fill bolt out. I had to do a lot of work so I could change the fluid. So always check the fill hole first.
Shit
And removing the spare tire will give you lot more room to work.
Great video sir. I need to do this to my f150. Gave me confidence to do it myself and save money from the dealership doing it. Thanks
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful! Please subscribe if you want to support!
It makes life a lot easier if you take your spare out first. Also power wash the rear end first and the bottom of the bed so there isn’t any debris to fall into your open differential.
You can certainly do that! Excellent idea
I plan on doing this, but also buying a 3rd party cover that has a drain and fill plug as well as a level indicator window. Seems like an upgrade that James Dillard Dutton would have only dreamed of back in 1883.
@@weekendhomeprojects awesome! That’s a great call 👍🏼
that neck line, line up is SHARP bro
Lol are you talking about my beard? Hahah
There is a plug on the top side on front of differential. Make sure you take this out and clean it off of metal particulate. The plug acts as a magnet. Also, you can siphon out most of the fluid through the plug hole.
I put a replaceable gasket on mine last time ....never going back to the goop...no waiting to cure, no mess to clean off the diff or the cover ....just bolt on and go.
Great! That works well too!
do you have a brand or part #
@@Wyatt_K lubelocker
yeah i dont have a spare vehicle to drive around because im waiting for drying. so this is thumbs up
Thanxs for the Dyi, it's crazy what the dealership wants , keep the vids coming , very informative Good Stuff.. 👍👍
Thank you! The dealers rob you! Haha
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You can use brake cleaner and spray everything down to clean up really nice.
Absolutely!!!
The W stands for “winter” not weight. Meaning it acts like a 75W140 acts like SAE 75 when cold and 140 when it’s hot. Just learned that a few months ago and thought I would pass it on 😂
Oh! I’ve never heard that lol thanks for sharing!
@@MagargeeFilms of course! Great video too, helped me a lot.
Thanks for the heads up. Nearing 60,000 miles soon
Of course! Please subscribe! I’d really appreciate the support!!
Recommendations have now changed to 75 145w ive done it twice from new every 60,000km tow heavy and long so far 125,000km and oil looks good fordmaculocco channel says way early scheduled maintenence is critical on all fluids in this truck
The manual says 150,000 miles for diff, transmission, and transfer case. I’m gonna do everything at 60,000 miles. Cheap insurance.
The manual for 2017 f150 with an E-Locker says to change differential gear oil at 150,000 miles but I will do mine front and back at 60,000 like you. Cheap insurance especially in a high humidity climate.
Hmm interesting. That seems pretty high. But changing it sooner never hurts!
This Redline oil has friction modifiers for LS diffs already added. Not sure this will hurt but the E-lockers don't use friction modifiers.
There are no additives in this RedLine gear oil. It’s safe for my 2017 F150 e-locker diff. Different years and lockers take different oil. Be sure to consult your manual.
@@MagargeeFilms As the label states "for hypoid LS differentials" It will not hurt e-lockers, but it does have friction modifiers for clutch style LS diffs. I looked on Redlines website. 😉 Great video BTW!
And his hair was perfect!
Hahah we do our best
Great informative video. I have a dumb question. When picking up the fluid in the store I need to buy “gear oil” correct? My manual calls for “rear axle fluid” and “synthetic axle lubricant” so I just wanted to make sure.
Great question. So “gear oil” is a generic term and can mean transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, or differential fluid.
What you want is “differential fluid”
Axle fluid is another name for differential fluid. They are the same.
Excellent instructions. Thank you.
Welcome! Glad you found it useful!
Sorry to put a damper on your process but ....
First of all if you are going to service the diff ,, service the diff. Clean it all. Use some sort of cleaner like alcohol or brake clean or varsol and spray all parts real good . Have both rear wheels of the ground and make sure vehicle is secured. Clean the mating surfaces spray the gears spin the wheels and clean some more. Air blow real good. There is a reason why the cover is shaped the way it is. Must use a gasket because the flow of oil will change when spinning. The cover shape is designed to direct the oil flow to the proper places. After servicing move truck slowly with no load to get oil everywhere. After test drive check for obvious leaks. Check several times afterwards.
@@andycoutrouzas2026 Great suggestions! Be sure to subscribe!
If you use the Permatex "red" the right stuff, you can assembly and fill, drive right away. "if" you want.
Great video thank u buddy
No problem!
Nice job ford 😂
My tundra has a drain plug and a fill plug
Since it’s the E-locker, did you get the Hypoid 75/85? Did my 2018 rear differential at 42k miles, 3:55 E-locker (just cuz) and manual states 75/85 hypoid $30 a quart and since E-locker, no friction modifier needed
I just used the red line 75w85 diff fluid. I didn’t add additive because it’s an e locker and the dealer said I didn’t need it. Maybe if your truck is 4x4 or a different year, it might need additive.
It is GL 5 RATED FLUID...
Good video. Thanks!
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Good stuff
Is there a recommended mileage to do it, not what Ford says but a general rule?. I have a 2022 with 10k miles
@@craigjacobson158 typically 60k miles. But you can check it more often if you want
I wonder when you order a new diff case it comes with a ring? I didn't see a ring in your video?
You’d have to ask the seller! If not, you can buy separately
There was a metal gasket on mine.
Great job and video!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Please subscribe! I’d appreciate it
Please let me know how that fluid is, much more economical than the motor craft which apparently is liquid gold at the price they sell it at.
Link in description. You can find the price by clicking the link
Redline makes some of the best fluid of anybody on the market.. due to MOSTLY POLYOLESTER base oil...
Great video. Very informative 👍🏼
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful. Please subscribe 😊
nice job not smearing the sealant like I ALWAYS do
😂 shit gets everywhere! Hahah
Can’t you reuse the gasket on there and maybe some sealant after clean8ng it up?
Maybe. But I wouldn’t risk reusing an old one when you get get a new one for a few bucks.
wait to change the oil you do not have to remove all those screws unless it has a break or leak to change it you only remove the 2 screws, the fill and drain screws
I think you needed at least 5x the amount of RTV that you used.
Havent had any issues so far, and that was 3 years ago! 🙌
What about using a fluid extractor instead of taking the cover off?
Great question. You could certainly do that but there are some disadvantages; you won’t get all / as much of the old fluid out. It will be harder to see / remove metal shavings if any from grinding gears, and you won’t be able to visually inspect to inside of the differential for any other potential problems.
Honestly I think the fluid extractor will be harder and take longer too. Plus it’s nice to know you have a fresh seal / gasket under the cover.
Fluid extractor took me about 10 minutes to get old fluid out, 5 minutes to add new fluid, and a couple of minutes to pour the old fluid out. Very quick, easy, and no mess.
@@kerrytizzle2708 doing this! Thanks for the info. Would not have thought to take this route.
Im at 80k hopefully its not too late😂
The sooner the better! Don’t let it go too long!
If the cover is not leaking, why go through all the trouble of removing it instead of just taking out the drain plug?
@yougeoman great question. Some don’t have a drain plug
Leaking started after you filled the exact amount?
Yes. It’ll pour out the inlet when it’s full. Then you let it level out.
Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it! Please subscribe! 😊
What about the front diff and transfer case fluid. If you’re down there getting dirty wouldn’t it make sense to do all at once
My truck is only 2wd. I assume it’s the same type of fluid and quantity and process as the rear. You’ll have to consult your manual or local dealer.
Have experience any issues with red line differential fluid ?
No issues! So far redline has been great!
@@MagargeeFilms thanks 🙏🏻
Won't sealer get on the inside near the gears?
@@craigjacobson158 that’s why you stay close to the edge, don’t put on too thick, and let it dry before you add fluid. If you’re careful, you’ll be fine.
Why would you use silicone when the lifetime shim/ gasket is wayy better??
They both are fine gaskets.
The shim can be more expensive and hard to find. The silicone can be found at any autoparts store.
@@MagargeeFilms Shim one is oem from factory.
Can you use impact to break the diff cover bolts loose?
Technically yes if you have no other way to break it loose But I would not recommend that. You may damage the threads or break the drain plug.
Why doesn't Ford add a drain plug instead of requiring the cover to be removed?
Wouldn't that be nice?! lol. I think they did that in newer models
@@heresalemonsukonit276 2017
Why use teflon tape? Not required?
Helps make a good seal. Not sure if the manual recommends it but I would
At 6:25 this goes off the rails.
Just crazy , so much got in , the rags were covered with crap.
Was the metal gasket not reusable ?
I guess I could’ve re-used the gasket if i cleaned it really well and there weren’t any bends or cracks. But I had the gasket maker already, so I just went with that. I’d recommend gasket maker or a new gasket.
Would this be the same as the 2019?
Yes, it should be the same for your 2019
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Can you use 75W-90?
Depends on your year and model. I’d reference your manual or the dealership.
Based on forums it sounds like a lot of people do. Apparently the original spec was actually 75W140 so anything in between should be fine in theory. Personally, I don't mind going with a slightly different oil weight if it's cheaper or more readily available. Doesn't have to be bang on OEM spec.
Appears that your truck has had it done before . Usually from factory no gasket .
It is possible! I got it used.
What engine is in your f150 ?
It’s a v6 3.5L ecoboost. Twin turbo. 2017
Why didn’t you just put a new gasket?
You certainly can. I had trouble finding them and the ones I did find were pretty expensive.
@@MagargeeFilms thanks found a fel-pro for 13. I think I’ll go that route but great video! Thx
The metal gasket is supposed to be reused
You certainly can reuse the metal gasket if it’s in good shape and you can clean it. Or you can use gasket maker. Both will work fine.
So you used the sealant and an actual gasket? I can't stand the sealant. Constant leaks. Went back to an actual gasket.
@@brandonmacon3317 I just used the sealant. No gasket
@MagargeeFilms I got ya. Thought I saw something I apparently didn't. The sealant always leaks for me. Going back to a gasket next time
Meh for the extra $200 I wouldnt mind having the dealer do it because if anything went wrong, they would be liable.
And that is why people like you pay and people like us do it ourselves
@White Wrex I'll gladly pay all day for the convenience and piece of mind while I watch DIYers cry on the forums when they fuck up. 😅
Why are you watching ?
@@danharmon9237because I follow this guy's content...is that okay Mom?
If you don't have the confidence to do it yourself then yea, pay someone. Otherwise if you're reasonably handy then this is an easy job. With the money saved you could do the front diff and transfer case too.