Removing, Cleaning, and Inspecting Our RV Furnace
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
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In this video, I pull out our Suburban SF-30F RV furnace for a look. It involves several screws and disconnection of the power and thermostat wiring. Also, the LP gas connection needs to be unhooked.
Disclaimer: Working with LP Gas and Electricity can be dangerous. I'm not a certified RV technician merely an RV owner. This video should not be taken as instructional. If you decide to work on your own RV furnace, do the research and be aware of all risks involved. I accept no liability, you have been warned. - Ray
With one screw the furnaces outer case slides off. I give everything a good vacuum and wipe down. Then inspect the wiring and electronics. I point out some of the functions of various devices and the overall workings.
I check for debris in the intake and exhaust ports and squirrel fan cages. I inspect the heat exchanger baffling looking for rust or corrosion that may turn into a leak.
Finally, I sew things up and reinstall. I reconnect the wires using crimp on butt connectors and check the LP gas with soapy water making sure there are no leaks.
Link to Suburban RV furnace service manual - www.loveyourrv...
Related Love Your RV posts and videos:
Thermostat upgrade - www.loveyourrv....
Big Buddy Heater Quick Connect Mod - www.loveyourrv....
Parts and Tools (Disclaimer: Amazon Affiliate Links)
Butt Connectors - amzn.to/2wVcRw3
Gas Leak Detector - amzn.to/2fgoGms
Wire Stripper/Crimper - amzn.to/2wXsd0B
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I have the same unit in the RV I've lived in for 6 years. I added a gas valve in the line on the right. That way i could turn off the gas right at the furnace. My "sail switch" went out and so the furnace would come on, click a few times, then go off. Anyway while I had it out to replace the sail switch, I cleaned the insides, replaced the sail switch and added the gas valve. I also added 3 feet to the length of those wires so I could pull the unit out from under there without cutting or disconnecting the wires. Good video by the way.
I used a 4way flat trailer connector on mine. It makes it super easy to remove for cleaning.
Thanks for pulling it out. I've inspected mine several times but never that thoroughly. Its nice to see all the extra angles.
You're welcome. :) The old furnace is still chugging along well into our 13 year with this trailer now.
This was super helpful in repairing my furnace problem. It’s very rare that one video shows exactly what I needed to see. Excellent job!
Great to hear! Cheers, Ray
Our 5 month old trailer won't heat. Fan blows to clear any combustible vapors for 15 seconds but burner doesn't ignite. Read that the sail switch can get clogged with dust/pet hair (from you know who) and it prevents switch from making contact. My project du jour, 30 outside and 42 inside this morning!
Good luck with the trouble shooting. Hope you get it fixed quick. :)
I laughed hard when you said clean it once a year...nobody does that.
Lol
Thank you for making this video
Yeah, not many people read the manual. :) Here is what it says:
Preventative maintenance is essential if an RV owner is to have reliable, safe operation of his furnace. Two important
areas to watch closely in order to assure safe, reliable operation are the venting and the main burner.
An obstruction in the vent or main burner will reduce the combustion air which results in incomplete combustion. Whenever incomplete combustion occurs, the by-products are carbon monoxide (CO) and soot. If the furnace exhaust vent shows black soot forming, the furnace should not be operated until the problem is corrected. Two common causes are:
1. Restriction in the vent or furnace intake (screens, wasp nests, tape).
2. Dirty burner.
If operation of the furnace continues under these conditions, it could result in serious injury to the occupants of the RV or even death.
Cleaning of the main burner and an inspection of the venting system should be done at least once a year, preferably just before the beginning of the heating season. Some RV owners and service personnel have the false assumption that if a furnace has not been used, it will not require cleaning. NOT SO! A furnace which has not been used for some time could be more in need of cleaning than a furnace which has been used extensively.
Dust and lint should be removed from the room air blower wheel and sail switch. A build up of dust and lint on the blower wheel can cause the motor to drag and not generate enough air flow to engage the sail switch. Dust accumulation on the sail switch will restrict the travel of the actuator arm and prevent operation of the valve circuit.
A yearly inspection should be made of all gaskets on the furnace. If any gaskets show signs of leakage or deterioration, they must be replaced.
I do but I've only had for 2 years!
Thank you for this video!! Our furnace would not kick on. After watching this video my husband and I were able to walk through pulling out the furnace for a check up. We found a cut wire! Fixed that and now we have heat!!
recently i bought a basket case of a motorhome. the plan was to record my improvements but gave up. its difficult to film while fixing something. i have a new found respect for you tube channels like yours. thank you.
Your welcome. :)
Keeping the power and ground to the fan for isolated use is what I have planned. I just have to get the darn thing out. I'm broken so it's hard to get up and down and up and down. I can do the bench work with no problem but removal is going to be a bit tough. I plan to use a 24 inch extension with actual plugs on the end nearest the unit. No twist ties or tape for me
I have those outside cover screens over my furnace intake and exhaust, as well as the three gaps in the fridge panel and water heater vents. Where I park for storage there are mud daubers, and the little so-and-so's seek any kind of crevice that they can to get in to (not to mention any other kind of bugs or rodents). . . . Glad for this video! Knew the basics of how the RV furnaces work, but never saw the detail until now!
How-to test rd thermostat
I'm certain that I have a suburban furnace in my RV that is only 2 seasons old. Mice might have gotten in there as it runs super rough after 2 uses. Thanks for the video. I appreciate the detail and knowing that the exhaust and fresh air ports are just press fit. Just have to remove couch and frame to get access to the whole works. These RV's are not made to last much at all. Frustrating.
Pulled mine out today. The problem I had was when you turn the thermostat on, you could hear the relay click but the blower wouldn’t.
Got the unit out and checked everything to be ok, except the blower relay switch was clicking but not closing the contact to activate blower.
Unsoldered the relay to test it separated and it worked properly. Soldered back together and the system worked. Put all back together and tested fine. I suspect I had a false contact between the relay and the circuit board, which the new soldering took care!
BTW, great video!
Most people wouldn't even attempt what you did Ray ,But I am like you I have no problem with pulling it out checking and cleaning it. Great video Ray ,Thanks!
You act as if he performed a miracle...my granddaughter can do this
Great show Ray. I haven't ever looked at mine but seeing what you had I think I will give it a go this weekend. Wish me luck and thanks again for the maintenance tips.
Good luck Al.
I have an SF-30 also. Twice now I came into the rig, turned the heater on and heard a gawd-awful commotion when the fan kicked on. Mice. They seem to love those squirrel cages. The first time it happened I think the critter got thrown into the circuit board because one of the electrical components was broken off of it. I replaced the board, the sail switch and the ignitor, just because the sail switch tested bad and I was already in there so might as well do the ignitor too. Works great now. That was a couple of years ago. But last week the same thing happened. Luckily this time nothing got broken (except possibly the mouse - never found a crippled or beat-up one but I did catch 4 of the little critters since then). The furnace is working great again, and I think I'm mouse-free now. Next project - seal up every hole and crack where they might be getting inside.
And just to add - if you have mice be very careful cleaning up their droppings. Mice can carry hantavirus and if you inhale it or get infected by contact it's an awful disease that can progress to Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS) and is fatal about 1/3 of the time. Follow the CDC instructions for cleaning up mouse droppings: www.cdc.gov/rodents/cleaning/index.html
Happened to me last winter too! :) ua-cam.com/video/m8bYSF7Snbc/v-deo.html Figured it came up the heating duct that runs into the underbelly, so I added some screening to it.
Just saw your video and it gave me what I needed to remove the same type of heater from a recently purchased travel trailer. All the mouse nest material is now gone and the heater works as it should. Thanks you.
Glad it helped!
Ray As always Great video. I removed the floor duct covers 3 years ago, and was surprised at how much saw dust was in the duct lines.
I remember removing quite a bit from mine early on too. Guess they aren't that careful during the manufacturing.
My experience. I have full floor ducting. Those punch outs, for above floor ducting, open up over time. I used 3M foil tape to fix this issue. My heat flow fell to a minimum. Upon inspection of the unit, these were leaking tremendous heated air under my stove. Seal them up. :-)
Great vlogs,
as HVAC contractor for 30+ years, try finding a return filter grill (it has a hinge door already) and also add a filter to keep the beagle hair out of the furnace. If you need a hand finding one to fit hit me up, I may be able to help. They are usually in even sizes only. Also it would be a good idea to test CO gases, anything able 9PPM is bad. That's something we do during heating tune ups.
Cool. Thanks for the tips.
Good idea on the valve Ray I am not fond of trusting the quick connects for a proper seal. Seen far too many leak on air systems. Also great to meet you and Anne and Angie. Headed back down Island now.
You too, thanks for dropping by. Safe travels. :)
Great video! Your videos are the best with learning and understanding the 5th wheel world! Thanks Sue
Thanks Sue, much appreciate the kind comment. Cheers! Ray
Great video. I really should take a look at our furnace. I install two screens that secure by little springs on the exhaust and intake vents outside to keep wasps out.
Good idea, I should pick some up.
I have a love-hate relationship with my suburban furnace. I love how well it warms my camper. I hate how much propane and battery power it uses. Also, trying to main a constant temp is near impossible. Yeah, I need a digital thermostat. What I need is supplemental heater like a wave 6
A supplemental heater is great I have the Big Buddy. It's been a good little heater for the money.
I'd like to get a higher end ventless heater like the Rinnai but they are pricey - amzn.to/2eVK6Vf
Cheers! Ray
@cgwworldministries I disagree, if used properly following the user manual instructions, supplying adequate ventilation and if you have the proper safety detectors LP gas, CO and Smoke onboard I think they are quite safe to use. The only caveat I have is out of an abundance of caution, I don't sleep with on, we just use it only during waking hours.
People never talk much about the RV gas oven, to me, if the Big Buddy is so unsafe then the propane oven should be worse, it's basically a large open flame with no outside vent and unlike the Big Buddy has no low oxygen shut off. But I guess RVs are leaky enough air wise to get away with it. Cheers, Ray
I just cleared out mud wasp mud that those busy little bees filled up the gas orifice with. I knew I should've listened to my wife when she noticed those wasps going into the intake port! Lesson learned.
have seen this video a couple years ago and forgot to make a comment too you on the hook up wires - until now. When you had cut them I noted the two blues..non polarity type - but when I do it...I will cut them one higher then the other....this way it lays out which is which when you plug it back in together. I use "BULLET CONNECTORS" which look like those butt connectors - 4 females and 4 males. They crimp on (I personally solder mine to stop corrosion) but they simply pull apart and push together nicely and will pass through the holes where the wires run. When the furnace is out will be the time to solder the males from the furnace side of the wires..while females that come from the wires out of the wall. and it is easier to get too them wires when it is opened. (Also the males make excellent connection points during testing on the bench if needed - it's a win win. Thanks for posting the video too!! :)
If you wanted to test the combustion chamber for leaks you could use a automotive smoke tester through the exhaust tube and plug the inlet. That would give you a good test for any combustion leaks into the coach. Most good auto shops have one these days
We put a small filter on in front works great . Change 4 times a year
I found your video helpful as I'm getting ready to inspect the FS-30 on a used fifth wheel we bought a year ago, I haven't run the furnace yet and don't feel comfortable just firing it up blind.
There's an easier way to disconnect and re-connect the wiring. The original crimped connections are accessible through the outdoor refrigerator access panel.
On my trailer the wiring channel was filled with expanding spray foam by the OEM I guess to keep pest out of the inside, so not that easy to remove the wires. A while ago I had a mouse get trapped in the fan so had to remove and clean that out at the same time I added a plug in the form of a 4 pin trailer type ua-cam.com/video/m8bYSF7Snbc/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV On my 2014 Keystone Outback 210, I've got the same gray foam plugging a 1 inch hole the wires pass through from the refrigerator space to the furnace space. The foam is fairly soft and chips away easy, so you can thread the wires back through hole when re-installing. Saves having to reach to the back of the furnace space and trying to crimp or Wago connect the wires there.
First thing I did in my 5th wheel was install a filter behind that grill. As an HVAC repair person, they have an oversized air feed into the furnace. There is no reason the cold air return not be filtered except the companies are too cheap. Every furnace in an RV I've looked at was totally impacted with crud.
I was wondering about that. You'd think they would design a filter system. Maybe they are worried no one would change it and it would impact the performance and lead to problems.
Thanks for answering my question. Living full time in a 2002 I have way too much dust. I am going to install a filter.
I like your response but in my case it wouldn't stay lit so I got a 5/8" claw wrench and removed it. No gasket required. It was clean and the orifice was clear. Put it all back together and it works just fine again. Maybe there was some dust built up on the paddle valve. Who knows, it is working and that was a easy fix. Have a great day.
Good to hear. My unit SF-30 has a gasket - www.rvupgradestore.com/Suburban-Furnace-Burner-Access-Door-Gasket-p/41-1034.htm
I've been told many times when you remove the access panel the old gasket tears. That reminds me I need to order one to have just in case. Cheers, Ray
Another great video Ray. I see the boss is sleeping on the job again! Love that dog!
I didn't know that service manuals are available online these days. My roof AC fan doesn't come on unless I give it tap. My plumber says the motor probably needs to be greased, but I hesitate to take too much apart without knowing where I'll end up. Good vid! Ty
I believe those motors have a hole to add oil to for the bearing.
Well geez, that would make things simple! Thanks again.
John TheFrugalFatGuy could be the motor but most likely the capacitor, I'd change the $10 part before replacing the motor
Ray most modern motors don't have oil ports, now they have greaseless bushings. New motor are at least half the cost of the old bearing types and last nearly as long
Brian, my trailer is an '02
Wow those 4 wires should be through a grommet (fire waiting to happen) not sandwiched through metal and nice of them to put that toggle switch in an inaccessible spot once the furnace is in place.
My heater motor seized in Brookings, Oregon in the early spring when you need a heater. Found a little RV repair place on the highway that had a motor and went out of their way to install it. Nice people. Replacing that motor wasnt an easy job
Can't wait to take mine out and chuck it. I'm installing a mini split system. Plus, my space heaters do a better job and are more efficient.
What kind of space heater are you using
Mini split is the ticket
Great video Ray, I'll need this someday.
Love the disclaimer too! 👍
Mine wouldnt get hot so pulled it and had mud dobber nests inside, cleaned em out, reinstalled it, n still wouldn't get hot, so pulled it again and removed the ignitor, the gas tube outlet that feeds the ignitor was clogged with some debris, just blew it out and put back together, works good now. Getting it in and out was the hard part, little different than this setup.
Should always plug gas line with 3/8 plug for additional safety
Thanks for the tip!
Last year the furnace motor bushings dried up on mine (Screamed so loud it was unusable) so I had to replace the motor...no big deal but FYI keep a set of (long) allen wrenches to undo the screw that hold the exhaust fan on in your tool kit. FWIW I was able to find replacement bushings for the old motor, so I now have a spare to carry along :-)
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video. Same furnace as my Cougar 318SAB
Great video, Ray! It is always a pleasure watching you do your videos. I love your channel. So, I take it that you have gotten rid of your mice? Do you think you should have put some type of trap or pesticide in the furnace area? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I find can always get the little buggers with a trap either in the basement storage or the front compartment. I think they climb the landing jacks. Think I'll add some wire mesh around the opening and block up some other underbelly holes before we head south this winter. Luckily we've only had a total of 8 in 6 years so that's not too bad.
Hi Ray. Thanks for another helpful video! You mentioned adding a valve to the T connection. Do you plan to install that on the top to shut off only the portable heater hose or on the incoming side instead? The latter may be the best option, so that you can quickly turn off the propane to both devices in the event of an emergency.
As well, to reduce the risk of mice entering the furnace from the vent on the left side, perhaps you could install a wire mesh filter there which has small enough openings to prevent a mouse from getting through, while not restricting airflow too much.
Thanks. I want to be able to shut off the gas flow to the portable heater but still retain use of the RV furnace. The quick connect shuts it off but I don't 100% trust it.
When boondocking we use the Big Buddy until bedtime then shut it off and use the big unit. Also in summer, I don't use the Buddy Heater but it's nice to have the regular furnace for a cool night. Cheers Ray
Thanks for replying. Based on how you use both the portable heater and the furnace, that location makes a lot of sense. For added safety, in the event a problem with the furnace, perhaps consider installing a valve on the input side as well, to quickly shut off the gas without having to go outside.
These rv unit heaters are easy to maintain. i'm working on a 5th wheel trailer for a friend of mine for his son to use. They should be inspected and cleaned at least once a yr. just like a gas furnace in your home. You cant take for granted any type of gas appliance, or it will come back to haunt you.Believe me, i live in Alaska and having such accommodations around you is great because it gets cold up here. I'm the tech that fixes stuff like this, but i'm homeless and live in a tent in the summer, with the cold damp weather we have here on the Kenai, it would sure make my old bones feel better to have something like this with a furnace in it.
Hi Ray. I think you done a good cleaning! I had once in my 30 feet fifth trailer clean the furnace. -Fred
Going to tear into mine today.... heat works great, thermostat does also... Only issue I see is the hot air flow coming out of the floor vents seem to be very weak and lately my Blower fan sounds great but seems to be touching something as it comes to a stop.... maybe a mud robbers nest, or dirt build up.... it doesnt do it all the time.
Our camper is very clean and was clean when we bought it but I know the former owners had pets and being this furnace isn't equipt with a furnace filter I just wonder if the squirrel cage is full of hair and dust not allowing the fan to create a strong flow of air.
Thanks for the video... it was very helpful.
You're welcome, maybe a rodent nests, they like the heat of the furnace. Trust me I know! We had one get killed on our squirrel cage one night - www.loveyourrv.com/arrgh-mouse-jammed-rv-furnace-fan/
Great useful video.
I have a question that I'm not certain why you did not mention it. When I take something like this out of a unit I look at everything and try to take pics or videos and identify everything I can for future reference.
There is a switch on the heater near the outlet end of the squirrel cage fan. It looks to be a black switch with on and off.
What is this switch for?
I ask because there have been times when out camping I may run out of propane and have a good size ele. heater that if I could turn on the 12 volt fan I could move this ele. heat throughout the camper and save freezing until I get some more propane.
Do you know what the switch was/is for?
Thanks
Gramps
Good tip, thanks. The switch turns the power on and off to the furnace., I think its there for testing purposes as in most installations the end user will never see it. Also could be used to quickly cut power in the case of a stuck on thermostat, etc. You can see me using it in this video where I had to pull the furnace out and remove a mouse that got jammed in the fan. After cleaning I did an external test and used the switch - ua-cam.com/video/m8bYSF7Snbc/v-deo.html You're idea won't work though do to the furnace shutting down if it doesn't sense flame. This is from the manual: manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Suburban/Suburban%20FURNACE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf
"If the flame is not sensed after seven (7) seconds, a second 15 second purge cycle will begin followed by a second Trial-For-Ignition sequence. After three (3) Trial-For Ignition attempts with no ignition of the main burner, the module board will de-energize the gas valve immediately and blower will run for 3 minutes and then shutdown in lockout mode" Cheers, Ray
Enjoyed this. Looking at the dog hair got me thinking that mice have a serious aversion to animals that find them. If found with their young by a cat they consume them and move on.(yick). Its natural and I feel the dog hair was a deterrent to mice liking that area.. Just a thought..(They sprinkle human hair on ballfields to keep deer from grazing them at night.)
Yes but they also will use it to make a nest.
Some mesh covering the hole where the vent goes to the basement will stop rodents getting in, but not bugs.
Thanks, luckily I haven't had any big bug problems
I recently took out the gas heater and put in underfloor electric heating and a heat pump.
Cool! What did it cost? How much amperage does it draw? Did you have to increase the RVs power input?
Thanks Ray
I wonder how much peripheral heat is generated by the unit in the compartment below the fridge. Heat rises. Under the fridge seems like less than ideal location. Some insulation to the ceiling of that compartment could help. You could check the temp with your IR gun.
Yeah, they all seem to do it. I guess there aren't a lot of location choices. They like to have all the appliances close to each other for less power and gas lines run I imagine. I'll check and see if it heats up much in there, it may not get much past ambient with the grill and fan running.
Is the sail switch the same as a relay switch?? And wow thanks! This video is a godsend! 💜
I think my relay switch is malfunctioned but not sure. The furnace keeps running even after I've shut it off. I had to pull the fuse to make it stop. If I replace the fuse it comes right back on. 😢 Currently looking for someone who's experienced with this stuff. My ex father in-law is an electrician so I'm hoping he can help. My manual is for models SF-3-20F/SF-25F/SF-30F/SF-35F.
The sail switch senses that the fan is spinning. The fan air blows against it, closing its switch, this tells the control board whether the fan is spinning or not.
The relay switch is controlled by the thermostat. The thermostat signal turns it on and off. There is about a minute lag to blow out any gases.
I once had the thermostat stick on, and the furnace would keep running and heating. I woke up in the middle of the night, and it was over 80F in the RV, even though the thermostat was set to 60F. Had to unplug the furnace to stop it.
Ok then that answers my question. That's exactly what is happening to mine. So it sounds like the thermostat is sticking. Thank you so much!
One thing: I don't see the relay switch on my manual. I see the sail switch, but not the relay. It must be part of the thermostat? Anyway, I appreciate you so much! 🙏🏼💜
There is a relay on the control module. See this video - ua-cam.com/video/7daT5RlQDqU/v-deo.html
Thanks!
Great tips Ray. Glad there was no mouse droppings. Do you use your Buddy heater much. I know it creates moisture. Is this concern for you and Anne?
I bought the Buddy heater for boondocking as it uses no electricity and use it all the time off grid if it's cold. Since we do over 90% of our boondocking in the dry desert the moisture issues is not a problem, in fact in the desert any additional moisture in the air is welcome. When I use it in the pacific northwest in the fall or spring moisture issues can be overcome by making sure that the roof vents are open and a window is cracked several inches to get good air flow. The Buddy puts out so much heat it can easily overcome the cold air coming in. The only time I can see moisture being a problem is if you closed up the RV tight but that isn't wise since the Buddy needs a source of fresh air coming in otherwise eventually it may use up too much of the oxygen and shutdown via its low O2 sensor or shut us down. ;) Cheers, Ray
A mouse actually got sucked up into my fan lol. It made quite a bit of mess inside the heater. Needless to say the heater hasn't work properly since then.
You may be right. However since it is 12 volt I believe that I can run a 12 volt positive and then a basic negative/ground to the actual fan connections and get it to turn on without the T-stat becoming involved. It would then operate independently of the original wiring.
What do you think about this now?
You can find the wiring diagram in the service manual I linked to. If it was me I would want to completely isolate the fan power wires from the rest of the furnace unless I was to fully explore where the 12VDC power would be distributed if I didn't and any unintended consequences that may arise. The risk is yours.
For those times that I have to cut a harness I like to install blade connectors male and female instead of butt connectors to make a quick connection and easy removal in the future
Good tip, I ended up installing a trailer plug after the recent mouse incident - www.loveyourrv.com/arrgh-mouse-jammed-rv-furnace-fan/ Cheers! Ray
How difficult should the press fit be to get off? I have basically this exact same furnace but in a different RV, but mounted about the same way ... After undoing the screws, I can't get it to come off the vent panel for the life of me. It acts like it's fastened somewhere but I can't find where?
I can’t unscrew the gas line. I don’t have enough clearance. Any tips of specific tools you used for that part?
I have a little 6" crescent wrench that is great for tight spots Looks like this www.homedepot.com/p/Crescent-6-in-Adjustable-Wrench-AC16CVSML/100120542
Think about putting Screen wire at furnace opening prior wood decor luver door, might keep dander,dog hair at bag. Thanks good lesson on furnace and shower swipes ,prior vid.
Thanks brother! I have the same system and the fan just self destructed and this was very helpful on how to get the unit out so i can put a new fan on it.
I tried to click on the service manual link you posted but i dont think you listed the full link?
Your welcome. Thanks here is the link - www.loveyourrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Suburban-RV-Furnace-Manual.pdf
Very informative video Thanks, How do you clean the vents? Of course a big bottle of Worcester sauce broke and ended up on the floor and down the vents. I have the same set up or so it seems. Any suggestions?
Thanks, I usually jam my shop vac hose as far as it goes down the vents to suck up any loose debris.
I had mice ruin my furnace -the drum got wrecked crushing and cooking them
working on my Atwood (Hydro Flame) furnace, determined board was bad, Info for subscribers if your board goes bad replace with a Dinosaur Fan 50 Plus Pins it is a lot better board then factory, www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Fan_50_PIN.html also replacing my relay switch with one from Dinosaur, nice thing about board is if furnace don't ignite it will shut blower off, which is nice if you are running it off of batteries
Great video, very helpful. Did you ever consider removing the heater completely and use a Big Buddy heater? Thanks.
We use our Big Buddy heater quite a bit in the evenings and on cold days but still, like to have the RV furnace for when we sleep. I don't feel comfortable safety wise sleeping with the Buddy heater. Also, our RV furnace has a duct to the underbelly to keep our plumbing and tanks warm preventing freeze ups.
I really love your dog, man
! :)
This video helped me out Thanks
Thanks for the video. I need to remove mine and clean out some mud dauber nests.
You're welcome. Here is a second video I did where I had to remove a dead rodent from the furnace fan - ua-cam.com/video/m8bYSF7Snbc/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
How do I clean the filter on my furnace without removing the whole thing?
Another great video Ray.
You should have gone in and showed us the igniter. But that was good enough. Gave thum up.
I didn't have a replacement gasket handy and it looks like removing the cover ruins the old one. Thanks, Ray
Yes,it would be under that plate, with about 8 screws on it.thanks.
I'm sure you can rig that panel to accept a furnace filter to keep all the dog hair out.
Great video!
Thank you for the video. Took my valve apart, and now I don't recall if the threads had teflon or not. Would this area be considered flared, compressed fittings, where there's no need for teflon tape (yellow, of course, if any? I appreciate your answer in advance.
Mine was a flared connection, so no tape. Maybe this post will help www.loveyourrv.com/easy-access-rv-furnace-panel-modification-plus-gas-valve/ Cheers, Ray
I didn't notice any kind of filtration on your unit is that typical? Would you consider using one if there was room enough and a place for it? Thanks
Yeah, no filter. I guess a filter could be used but if it gets too dirty it might cause problems with the furnace if they didn't design it for one.
Uhmmm. Might have to invent some kind of aftermarket product
Thanks
We just ran our furnace for the first time since winter and uggh, the smelly dust! I'm not surprised to learn that there is no filtration. Kinda dumb of the mfr.
Vacuum out the floor vents before winter use. It will cut down on the stirred up dust.
Well just spent the last hour or so taking mine apart. Cleaned it. Reconnected wires and to no luck no heat or blower fan... guess next to check and replace shall be the board. I hear a clicking sound like a relay but nothing powers up
As far as I know the first thing that needs to start is the fan motor, once it hits a certain speed for a certain duration than the gas can fire. So if you have no blower fan nothing can happen. Could try and download the service manual and troubleshoot the fan circuit or take a chance and try a new board. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV yeah gonna take the chance and replace board ignitor gasket sail switch and cut off... basically a system rebuild
Nice video! Thanks for posting!
THERE was still dog hair near the sail switch so expect a problem with the sail switch NOT connecting and no heat.
NO problems with the sail switch over 6 years later now, and we live in it full-time, so I guess you are WRONG
Good video thanks for the information it was a great help
Super knowledge for me thank you
I notice some moisture in your wood floor and sidewalls. Does that concern you any?
No, I didn't see any evidence above from a roof leak and it hasn't damaged the integrity of the wood., I believe it came from the occasional water seeping in through the exhaust and input ports when washing the rig and hitting the pipes or heavy wind blown side rains maybe. Or it might have been from condensation in the winter. Cold walls, hot air. Cheers Ray
Had one hell of a time to slide it out of the outer chassis..... is there a safe way to lube the cassis to it will slide in later???
Thanks
I have the exact same furnace and it was a bear to pull out from the exhaust. Did you have any issues getting them back in?
No, it slid in pretty easy once I lined the pipes up.
my problem is that it works well for 20 seconds it goes off it turns on again like 20 seconds it turns on again it repeats like 5 times and stays off or starts working fine.
I think I have a faulty sail switch because my furnace only blows out cold air and no heat when I turn on the thermostat 😭
Could be or for some reason the gas supply isn't getting to the furnace burner.
Thanks for sharing! Great tips & info as always! ✌️😀
Peace! 🌈🌈
For a connector use a 4 wire trailer plug.
Yeah, another commenter suggested that, great idea!
Very informative video. Thank you
Where did the bit of water damage come from along the edge of the space?
I believe it either from past condensation when camped in cold moist weather or water was forced past the outside furnace ports during a rig washing or windy rain storm. I don't see any signs of it coming from above or below.
Our furnace comes on, you can hear it ignite but then it shuts right off. What do you think we should look at?
I think I would try general cleaning, check wire connections and clean the gas burner. If it still doesn't work here is the service manual with troubleshooting flow charts. manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Heating-Cooling/Furnace/Suburban/Suburban%20FURNACE_Service-and-Training-Manual-11-05-2015.pdf Cheers, Ray
Hey, I just bought a 2009 suburban Nash Northwood.
It works fine, but it seems to cycle to much.
Is there anything that can cut down air flow to blowers. Tx.
The manual says not to block the vents. Usually, its the thermostat that controls how often the furnace runs. There is a range of temp setting from where it turns on to where it turns off, usually its a 2 - 4 degree Fahrenheit gap. I actually upgraded my thermostat to digital so I could get a tighter range for more even heat. www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/
Wow I have the same, pulled it out and LOADED with mouse waste...:(
Cleaned it out but still stinks gonna have to pull it again and really get it apart.
Check this video out. A mouse actually got killed in my squirrel fan one night. Had to take the furnace out and bleach it. www.loveyourrv.com/arrgh-mouse-jammed-rv-furnace-fan/
@@LoveYourRV wow Thanks for the reply, appreciate it!
Ray could the furnace be insulated to reduce noise
Unfortunately, I don't see how as the return air needs to get in there. I would think is it could be easily done they would do it as the noise is a real pain.
The piece in the front with the wires on it is most likely the thermocouple.
Yes, looks like from the manual they call it a limit switch.
"The limit switch is an in-line device which protects the
furnace from over heating conditions. The contacts in the
limit switch open at a given temperature setting, shutting off
power to the ignition system which controls the gas valve."
If it had 3 wires it would likely be the flux capacitor
Ray will your solar system and batteries keep up enough to have the furnace all night? Them blower motors sure do draw a small battery down fast. There are no more mice now. They know Angie would kick them out.
We use the Big Buddy heater until bed time then use the big furnace, it draws anywhere from 6-8 amps so yeah it's a power sucker all right. Wish my wife could handle a little cooler temp at night. Least I got her down from 70 to 66.
It's one of the reasons I went to 4 batteries. With two I was driving the batteries pretty low some cold nights, now we usually are at 75-80% capacity come the morning after a cold night and the solar can recharge us from there. Unless is cloudy and cold for a couple days then the generator may have to be fired. Cheers! Ray
That really didn't seem like an awful lot of hair for 6 years, and a dog. Excuse me, Madam Angie. That must be a testament to your immaculate housekeeping.
I was surprised, expected more. I guess a lot of it blows right through. That and my wife cleans the hair off the floor every day.
Cheers! Ray
It sounds like a vacuum cleaner when running.
How do you get the blower motor cover off Ray?
I have a sf35q and it has hard plastic tabs that want to break off when lifting.
Not sure I haven't ever had to have it off. Even when a mouse got jammed in there I just took the whole thing outside and washed it. See here ua-cam.com/video/m8bYSF7Snbc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the reply Ray ! Merry Christmas!@@LoveYourRV
Very good job sir!
Wish mine worked only works on bench