Kawasaki Ultra 150
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- Discussion and analysis of the original engine failure on the Kawasaki Ultra 150 we bought as a basket case and are resurrecting.
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Great info, Thanks. I have a 1999 Ultra 150, still gets to 72 mph in a hurry. All stock. Bought it new. No mods. The seat and other rubber parts are shot, but it's still a very fast runner.
This guy is great. So knowledgeable. Love your videos I just bought a 99 150 ultra with 42 hours on it I want to know everything!!! Thank you!!!
You are welcome!
Wow finally a really knowledgeable Ultra person.. I've been reading forums and watching YT videos for days but this guy gave more useful info than all that.
Glad to be of service, lots of info running around about Ultras, but plenty of it is sketchy.
Great video about the ultra 150! Please make more videos about the carbs. Great content.
We are planning more Ultra 150 videos!
Hey man I need to know I cant find it anywhere but I see standard size ultra pistons that are 80mm and then I see other pistons bei g called standard size that are 79.87mm so which one is the true oem standard bore?? Plz get back with me thanks!!
I got one from a guy that did a rebuild on a 2000 I bought from him and it runs 72 im 200 lbs love the ultras!!
A good Ultra 150 will give up a number of boat lengths on the bottom to an RXP-X but will run away and hide from one over 50mph. Push those 250hp+ four strokes to start from a 30mph roll then the Ultra 150 will stay even until it pulls away.
I'm brand new to PWC life. Just purchased 2 used Kawasaki Ultra 150's. They scream and my wife has never had so much fun. Found your video to be very helpful and I don't want to be "that guy". What is your opinion on Powermadd E3.31 plugs for my Skis? Also, do you have a video on how best to winterize the skis? Thanks so much and keep up the great service for the PWC community.
The engineers who specified, designed and tested the Ultra ignition system did so with NGK plugs under varying duty cycles in all types of atmospheric conditions but they never tested with Champion, Bosch, Denso, Autolite, AC Delco, or any other alternate brands of spark plugs. One is always free to experiment but the point of doing so escapes me.
Thank you for the quick reply. It is much appreciated. Keep up the great videos, they are very helpful to us newbies. I'll follow your advice. My best!
Subbed. Keep going with Ultra vids!
I have a 2000 ....today on the lake and my oil line going to the pump broke and leaked all my oil in the ski ..and it cut off soon after running out of oil .hopefully didn't murder it to bad
Are the 2000 ultra's tuned the same way to require the special plugs?
Id like to know that as well. I picked up a machine that was used in salt water...main cooling tube and the 90 degree fittings were clogged. I got those clear but the front cylinder I get exhaust coming out of the pisser. I want to pull the head but cant get it off for the life of me. Any ideas short of pulling the entire motor?
I really like how you explain things
Thanks! Please stay tuned for further Ultra 150 videos after we finish the boat series we are doing now.
Great video. I run the br9es and eix plugs in my 99 ultra 150. Kawasaki years ago came out with a vin code and it says if you have a vin after a certain number you can use the cheaper plugs. That is because they changed the cdi. The newer ultras like the 2003 can use the br9 plug no problem. With the 99 you have to make sure it have to never cdi so you don’t break the plug and it falls in the cylinder. I’ve been running the br9 plug for a few season now, with no problem. I also like to run a little bit of 110 octane fuel mixed in the tank. It helps with detonation
I know the comments and replies get hard to read but I had previously clarified in another comment stating:
BR9ES acceptable in any Ultra 150 with stock heads except those running an original early production 1999 CDI/Igniter module with the more aggressive timing maps. Or the other way around, any year Ultra 150 with a 21119-3757 CDI/Igniter and stock heads can run BR9ES plugs.
@@atthelake7637 yeah, I want to check mine to make sure, is the cdi the box with the plug wires running to them?
The CDI module is in the same electrical box as the coils so yes follow the spark plug wires.
This is an awesome video man you seem to know a lot about the ultra 150 motors I definitely learned a lot from this
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info I learned a lot ! Unfortunately I have murdered my jet ski and am in the process of reviving it !
I will be posting more Ultra videos this week.
@@atthelake7637 I'd love to visit with ya! butchalvarado71@gmail.com. send me a message. I just got my first ultra
Thank you hope you do more on this how many hours would you do a rebuild I have 200 hours ? and org owner still no problems thx
Forget time, maintain on condition. Get a leak down tester use a strap wrench on the PTO coupler to rotate the crank. Good cylinders will measure under 5% any cylinder leaking more than 15% needs to be inpected.
Great video on this engine I always like to make small maintenance work on my ski would you have a recommendation on best oil for the ultra 150 thanks
I lhave been using the Quicksilver(Mercury Marine) full synthetic PWC oil in my Kawasaki stand ups for years with good results. It is readily available in my area at under $40/gallon. I also really like what I have seen inside engines that have been run on Klotz SkiCraft and Redline Watercraft oils. Both are harder to source for me and more expensive.
@@atthelake7637 thansk I will look into that with my local motor parts i live in Northern Ireland
Could I ask a question about my ultra 150 get out on the water for 30 mins after that the ski goes into limp mode it only gives me about %50 power only revs to 3000 but once you take it out of the water the ski will rev right out no problem
@@samuelgray2798 HEllo Samuel, I do have the same issue as you! I was thinking it was something related with the impeller and the pump, Have you figure it out already? Thanks.
@@hernanbobbio6584 sorry no haven't got too the bottom of the issue but once I get working on it again soon il keep you updated but hopefully your not right because impeller and pump sound really dear to fix 😬
By limp mode do you mean red led on the gauge cluster is blinking and indicating an overheat?
If I was to bring you a 2001 Ultra 150 with the Factory Pipe triple pipe exhaust system, would you be able and willing to do the installation? Money is not an issue. I live in Miami,FL and I can't find true professionals with Ultra 150 knowledge like yourself.
You sir are a Godsend
Sure, but I am in Minnesota.
@@atthelake7637 thanks for replying. I appreciate that. No worries of your location. I have no problems taking the ultra myself. What would be the best way of communication with you once I have everything set to go? And also once this virus blows over
Not sure if you'll get this. I put my 99 together and after the first ride I think I left the gas on and the motor was completely full of has the next time I went to ride it. What would you think. Fuel pump is leaking past the diaphragm?
It doesn't matter if you leave the fuel selector on. I don't think my Ultra has ever had the fuel selector knob touched in the many years I have owned. It could be a fuel pump failure but I would bet you have a carb running over. I have seen a machine stored crazy bow up on a trailer with negative tongue weight actually siphon most of its fuel tank in to the motor via a leaking carb.
@atthelake7637 thanks for the reply. I do store my skis tilted up. I'm thinking it's a fuel pump cause at wot I was getting a little pinging. So lean condition
@atthelake7637 have you rebuilt any of these carbs or just replace with cheap generic
i own 2 of the 1999 ultra 150 a1 models and the br9eix plugs for two years now after first engines needed rebuild and so far everything looks great i would say the iex safe afte 140hrs
So if mines a river runner do you recommend putting some oil on the fuel as well???
Never. Excess oil displaces fuel as your carburetors meter by volume so any oil going through the jet means less fuel. Two stroke oil also reduces the octane of the fuel.
How much does it cost to rebuild a ultra 150 engine
How high is up? Assuming you can do the work yourself, my back of the envelope parts numbers for a motor that was a good core but needed lots of love would look like:
$750 Three replated cylinders
$500 Piston and gasket kit
$500 Rebuilt crank
$250 Carburetor rebuild parts
$100 Sparkplugs, oil line, fuel line, filters, and misc.
Obviously if a motor has impressively come unglued and destroyed the crankcase halves, broke up the cylinders, or otherwise rendered the crank unrepairable my numbers above are not nearly high enough.
Is there anyway I could get ahold of you have many questions about rebuilding my ultra 150 and how to make it reliable as possible
I can be reached via email Atthelake.onyt@gmail.com
I have a 99 ultra 150 will amz oil hp marine oil work and will 91 no ethanol fuel be okay? Thank you very good vid
This is the vin I think also what plugs do I need thank you again
Kaw41884d999
Non-oxy 91 plus Amsoil HP marine synthetic is a fine choice. I personally don't care for Amsoil corporate's business model and marketing practices but there is nothing wrong with the lubricants.
@@dylanhafner6906 Sorry but can't be certain by HIN anymore best bet is to post the part number off your igniter/CDI box.
Thank you very much I'll look for that number and for now I'm going to buy the plugs you choose in this video someone has put and aftermarket cool head on this engine hopefully it's done right
Great info where u located?
The land o' ten thousand lakes, the gopher state man.
I ve gotten my ultra up to 78 bone stock I don't know nothing about marine motors, I use ngk plug because orielys
The only way a stock Ultra 150 is going to hit a verifiable 78mph is on a trailer behind a pickup truck. Getting any Ultra 150 to hit a real 78mph requires 200ish hp in to a blueprinted and carefully setup pump on a straightened and optimized hull. Takes either a full mod motor with triple pipes, some one off forced induction setup, or a 50hp shot of nitrous to make that kind of power.
data for the BR9EIX- just found a thread guy said he's been using them since 2010 with no issues. he has the early/hotter CID box.
We are going to swap an ADA head on to ours after we accumulate some more hours, I am planning to try some BR10EIX in that.
@@atthelake7637 do you have to re-jet the carbs with the ADA head? I have the later CDI box and 42cc domes.
Carburetor jetting is always a function of the RAD (relative air density) when and where you ride, and the fuel you use. In most situations with the later CDI and no stupid air temp sensor mods the stock 165 mains, 48 pilots, N8dc needles are OK but near the edge with 42cc heads on real non-oxy 91 premium. However my process is to always have excess octane in the tank for tuning so I recommend making all initial test runs on half pump premium and half VP C-10 or an equivalent 100 octane unleaded race fuel. This allows one to err on the lean side of peak to the point of noticeable power loss without detonation damage. If you can't readily source 100 octane unleaded race fuel where you are order up a gallon of Klotz Hitrate KL-450 and add it to 18 gallons of pump premium to make a fine 97 octane plus jetting insurance fuel. Leaded race fuel works for this too but adds another unwelcome variable as they generally make the nose of the plug insulator appear somewhat darker than unleaded fuels as can certain oils. Remember plug readings are relative so consider keeping a good colored up set out of your machine prior to this modification as a reference. I always try to run at least one heat range colder on plugs when switching to a maximum pump gas compression setup so on an Ultra either BR10ES or BR10EIX.
@@atthelake7637 thanks, that helps a lot.
I can get E-free gas but it's only 89 octane. is this better than 91oct E10? I would take your advice and mix either with an octane booster like the Klotz.
@@halleffect1 I am very skeptical about the long term reliability of 42cc chambers on oxygenated 91 pump octane fuel. I would either switch to 44cc or plan on religiously mixing a quart of Hitrate in to every 10 gallons of Oxy 91 with the 42cc.
Great video !
Thanks! We have a number of other Ultra 150 videos with more on the way.
You should do some videos on how to get to this point for the ultra 150 :D like this one tho.
Our intitial goal for the channel was to focus on the "why" aspects of the projects we undertake. What I take from your comment is you are interested in the specifics of the "how" as well. We have been discussing the idea of shooting all the actual wrench turning, and whether It would be interesting and helpful to viewers. I guess the best way to decide is post some and see if people watch and comment.
@@atthelake7637 oh I gotcha, well I am curious of "why" a ultra 150 is known to leak oil inside the body, or why they commonly dont turn over... heck, just more ultra 150 why videos would be fine and dandy by me. I can use the kawa service manual to take apart as needed though! Thanks for the informative response
Who is a good person to send my ultra 150 jug off to to have it re nikasil or do m I have to buy another jug?
I use and recommend US Chrome in Wisconsin. I posted a video on the cylinders here ua-cam.com/video/4BUkbNffPJk/v-deo.html
The owner's manual for the 2001 Ultra 150 says to use BR9ES
The 99 ultra uses a different plug than the 00-05 ultra. own several of these myself and it can get confusing.
BR9ES acceptable in any Ultra 150 with stock heads except those running an original early production 1999 CDI/Igniter module with the more aggressive timing maps. Or the other way around, any year Ultra 150 with a 21119-3757 CDI/Igniter and stock heads can run BR9ES plugs.
How would I know what igniter I'm running is the a serial number on the igniter?
Is this your business?
We work on some stuff for friends now and then but concentrate on our own equipment. I am a Mechanical Engineer, at one time I worked for one of the lost souls of PWC manufacturers.
I have an ultra 150. And it’s giving me nothing but problems. The middle cylinder gets super hot and then the motor just stops. All most locks up. I let it cool then it starts again. This happens but yet does 66 mph.
If an Ultra 150 has been overheated I start with a leakdown test(compression acceptable substitute) to see if the engine is hurt. For a center cylinder overheat, assuming leakdown is good, my first step is a careful inspection or immediate replacement of all the oil injection lines. Next remove the elbow fittings off the rear and center cylinder heads and make sure they are clear. Connect a garden hose to each disconnected overboard indicator hose and flush them out, they should flow the same. Run it on the hose with the center and rear fittings removed (remember engine on, hose on, hose off, engine off) don't go crazy with the pressure the goal is to see if water will pour Into the bilge equally from both cylinder heads. If the center cylinder water flow is restricted compared to the rear I would pull the motor as restrictions in the water inlet manifold or cylinders themselves are best dealt with on the bench. Except in an emergency I would never ever ride an Ultra that isn't cooling properly.
AtTheLake compression is good. Water flow is equal. Oil lines are new. Pulled plugs after running the two outside outside plugs are wet center plug is dry.
How are you determining water flow is equal on rear two cylinders?
i have a 99 ultra 150 that does 73mph all day
The factory speedometers are all over the place but most read about 5% fast. No stock Ultra 150 will do 73mph on a calibrated radar gun, timed course, or other verifiable method. We have found handheld GPS to be pretty close to a calibrated radar gun if five quality individual units are used and the high and low are thrown out before averaging the other three together.
I love how this guy is talking about crap oil and he's got a 1 gallon bottle of junk ass Quicksilver Walmart oil
Actually I have and have used many, many, gallons of Quicksilver full synthetic PWC oil. A keen observer would know that product is predominantly type IV polyalphaolefin and type V ester base oils the same basestocks as all the very best boutique two stroke oils. Mercury Marine (Quicksilver) oil was historically made/blended/supplied by CATO oil of Oklahoma. About 25 years ago CITGO bought CATO from it's parent Kerr Mcgee. CATO supplied oil for over 50 private labels CITGO tries hard not to release information about their current private label business. Some private label customers like Mercury have their own specific formulations and requirements other private labels may use a formulation created by their suppliers. In the particular case of Mercury's QFSPWC oil it is some of both. CITGO's main house brands are Supergard and Mystik both of which offer a synthetic PWC oil. However both those products are substantially type III base oils, thermally hydrotreated mineral oils and not the optimized synthesized molecules of type IV and V base oils. I expect as Mercury has no specific warranty issues to worry about, as they have no PWC business, that they have deferred to CITGO's generic formulation for the additive package the difference then being the higher quality base oils that predominate in QFSPWC. While I think QFSPWC represents a good value in a PWC oil it isn't terribly cheap, presently $43/gal at Wal-Mart, the best deal I ever see at my preferred local supplier is $34/gal in case quantities just twice per year. I actually prefer and would run Klotz Skicraft Techniplate but as no one near me stocks gallons I have to pay shipping that makes my cost like $60/gal.
Some accurate info, some not
I am always up for a lively discussion. Where do you think I have gone wrong?
@@atthelake7637 where did you buy the cylinders? More info please
@@javiermontes3777 See my video on the cylinders here ua-cam.com/video/4BUkbNffPJk/v-deo.html