Totally wrong procedure. Watch the many videos avilable to manually and clever level the bed once forever, then to find the ZERO Z axis position (nozzle must sligtly touch thebed surface), then to save the mexh profile of your bed. By doing so you can then make a lot of printings without to run auto levelling and without to have to modify the bed levelling. After a long while the bed undergoes to sligth deformations and you have to redo the entire process, but it takes a long while prior to have to redo it.
For people already with experience: 1. You don't have to do abl on every print: Yes 2. You can just recall the generated mesh on every print. Just change G29 to M420 S1 in the slicer's start gcode. 3. It takes a lot of time and a lot of prints to get it perfectly leveled. I've still adjusted the knobs till I got good results. No more abl on every print since I'm not changing the PEI sheet anytime soon.
Newer firmware has the option to re-initialize eeprom from the screen. But it's possible to issue a gcode command via terminal. You could set the z zero higher to avoid crashing on the bed.
I brought this 3D printer and its literally the worst purchase I ever made. Mine wouldn't extrude when printing and every time I put the gcode files into it, it would corrupt them. You're better off with the CR10 V2. Much easier to use and to trouble shoot. not to mention aswell that bed levelling on this is really irritating and confusing.
Had to reformat the micro sd card when it botched a print. Also, hang on the logo screen when I had lots of prints on the card. Had to delete some. Otherwise, it works fine. With regards to leveling, you'll need to go thru aux then auto. Unfortunately, its only an 8-bit board. Some of the ender 3's and 5's now have 32 bit.
@@webslinger2011 I reformatted the card too. There's something going wrong inside it that's corrupting the files though and I'm not entirely sure what it is. I updating the software on it via SD card and it just wasn't having it. I tried using the USB cable too and it just wasn't working which makes me think there's something faulty with the machine. I've got a refund on it now and I'm going to just get myself the CR10 V2 instead. I've seen a load of people using them and I've got a friend with one and he never seems to have any issues. I think I just got unlucky with it. I'm sure they work great if you get one that isn't faulty
Bed leveling is confusing? You literally don’t have to do anything. You level the four corners manually once every blue moon but other than that the auto level takes care of everything. I don’t know what you are talking about. I used to have a Longer LK4 which is basically the same as a stock ender 3 and leveling was such a massive pain in the ass so I’m so extremely happy to never have to worry about it again
What I learned myself (I bought a used cr10s pro - maybe V2, hard to tell) is that depending on what sensor you have and what bed you use, you need to dial it all correctly together! The capacitive will not detect materials (thus surfaces) not conducting electric current, the induction will only detect metal materials (some better, some worse, and material thickness may play a role) and the mechanical one works regardless of the bed surface type. Mine came with induction sensor, special foil instead of the default bed stuck directly to the heating bed, which is made of aluminium (probably worst metal for induction to work). I had to manually play a lot with pitting the leveling sensor to the correct height, so that the nozzle end stops truly only ~0.2mm above the bed. My z-offset corrections now go from -0.15mm to +0.10mm, even after maual bed leveling directly before the print. Also, I have noticed you have the "eco mode" on - turn it off at least for the first 1-2 layers. It reduces the fan speed - even turns it off, while for the first layer to stick properly you actually need the hot filament to cool quickly to get stuck. I hope this helps somebody struggling and finding this comment.
The thing that goes comes out of the fan and waits to touch the bed then goes up; mine doesn’t go down. First of all, what is that called (the part), second of all what should I do?
Do you refer to the BL touch pin? Was it working before? Mine came with a spare. First check wiring connections. Then check if the pin is stuck or bent.
wait, how do you get the plate off the bed? At 3:51 you're rotating it, how did the disconnect it? Is there a manual for this printer anywhere? I'm new to 3d printing, thank you for sharing this video.
Assuming its a stock creality firmware. 0.6mm places the nozzle above the zero point. -0.6mm brings it lower. As long as it does not put dimples on the bed when you do homing. Do manual leveling press home to save ->auto leveling press home to save again. Then perform Z-offset during a print.
webslinger2011 that’s what I thought and dreaded LOL. Getting a Z homing error although the BL is acting normal X and Y home then a long pause and Z homing error comes up on screen. Need to decide if it’s the breakout board and try and find one or bypass with a regular Z switch and manually level from now on LOL first world problems LOL
Man, it's impossible to miss so much with this equipment, are you serious or are you doing it on purpose ? Normally, the printer has already printed before it was put in the box. Have you checked that the plate is well screwed and does not move ? Have you tightened the straps ? Have you checked that the extruder carriage rolls and does not move ? First ,you have to align the two Z axes with a template ( a small black is provided). Second, you have to adjust the height of the heated bed on the 4 corners with a sheet of paper or a 0.2mm template, make 2 turns off the board at least for this opération. Third, The BLtouch is used to compensate for variations in the heating bed at a scale of 0.01mm. That's it for leveling ! DO NOT ADJUST ANYTHING DURING A PRINT !! just stop it and look what's the problem and the easy way to solve it. Puts a sponge on the PLA to clean it before the extruder ( to avoid clogging your nozzle because you are not ready for this ) Forget the tape and glue 😤, install a simple Buildtak, set a Cura profile at 0,2mm layer 210°C, bed 55°C print at 40mm/sec move 100mm/sec. to begin print only PLA ( not others filaments) pay attention to the quality and humidity. Check all fans are running after the 1st layer. And... Welcome to the world of 3D printing 😁.
Yup, done that and made sure things were reasonably tight. ua-cam.com/video/t4EvtRpKpWQ/v-deo.html I wondered how their quality control missed a piece of washer inside the unit. Noticed it jingling inside as I was unpacking the unit. Had to open it up on the first day just to remove it.
What was the point of this video? You showed a problem, how to solve it, but didn't solve it yourself. And then you came with another problem that didn't have anything to do with z-offset? I did not learn anything from this video, neither did I enjoy it. Sorry, but you have my unlike for this video.
Thank you. My goal in watching the video was to confirm that pressing (Z-) button lowers the nozzle and you confirmed it does.
Totally wrong procedure.
Watch the many videos avilable to manually and clever level the bed once forever, then to find the ZERO Z axis position (nozzle must sligtly touch thebed surface), then to save the mexh profile of your bed. By doing so you can then make a lot of printings without to run auto levelling and without to have to modify the bed levelling. After a long while the bed undergoes to sligth deformations and you have to redo the entire process, but it takes a long while prior to have to redo it.
For people already with experience:
1. You don't have to do abl on every print: Yes
2. You can just recall the generated mesh on every print. Just change G29 to M420 S1 in the slicer's start gcode.
3. It takes a lot of time and a lot of prints to get it perfectly leveled. I've still adjusted the knobs till I got good results. No more abl on every print since I'm not changing the PEI sheet anytime soon.
This is more of a work-around, not a solution for resetting the Z-axis.
Newer firmware has the option to re-initialize eeprom from the screen. But it's possible to issue a gcode command via terminal. You could set the z zero higher to avoid crashing on the bed.
how do you save the Z offset adjustment
by pressing the home button during printing.
I brought this 3D printer and its literally the worst purchase I ever made. Mine wouldn't extrude when printing and every time I put the gcode files into it, it would corrupt them. You're better off with the CR10 V2. Much easier to use and to trouble shoot. not to mention aswell that bed levelling on this is really irritating and confusing.
Had to reformat the micro sd card when it botched a print. Also, hang on the logo screen when I had lots of prints on the card. Had to delete some. Otherwise, it works fine. With regards to leveling, you'll need to go thru aux then auto. Unfortunately, its only an 8-bit board. Some of the ender 3's and 5's now have 32 bit.
@@webslinger2011 I reformatted the card too. There's something going wrong inside it that's corrupting the files though and I'm not entirely sure what it is. I updating the software on it via SD card and it just wasn't having it. I tried using the USB cable too and it just wasn't working which makes me think there's something faulty with the machine. I've got a refund on it now and I'm going to just get myself the CR10 V2 instead. I've seen a load of people using them and I've got a friend with one and he never seems to have any issues. I think I just got unlucky with it. I'm sure they work great if you get one that isn't faulty
Yeah I bought the cr 10 s pro. It's a piece of crap too. So frustrating
Bed leveling is confusing? You literally don’t have to do anything. You level the four corners manually once every blue moon but other than that the auto level takes care of everything. I don’t know what you are talking about. I used to have a Longer LK4 which is basically the same as a stock ender 3 and leveling was such a massive pain in the ass so I’m so extremely happy to never have to worry about it again
Which firmware is that, mine doesn't seem to have the same options?
Using nic's old firmware. It's on github. See in comments section. ua-cam.com/video/ac_wqO_GJ7Y/v-deo.htmlsi=SmR08F4dZC9B_Bfy
Z Offset is enabled during a print. Stock creality fw has it.
Looking forward to more CR10ProV2 videos. Did you upgrade the firmware?
Stock only. Everything works fine. Just have to be careful leaving it running overnight. Might hit the auto leveling probe if parts get dislodged.
What I learned myself (I bought a used cr10s pro - maybe V2, hard to tell) is that depending on what sensor you have and what bed you use, you need to dial it all correctly together! The capacitive will not detect materials (thus surfaces) not conducting electric current, the induction will only detect metal materials (some better, some worse, and material thickness may play a role) and the mechanical one works regardless of the bed surface type. Mine came with induction sensor, special foil instead of the default bed stuck directly to the heating bed, which is made of aluminium (probably worst metal for induction to work). I had to manually play a lot with pitting the leveling sensor to the correct height, so that the nozzle end stops truly only ~0.2mm above the bed. My z-offset corrections now go from -0.15mm to +0.10mm, even after maual bed leveling directly before the print. Also, I have noticed you have the "eco mode" on - turn it off at least for the first 1-2 layers. It reduces the fan speed - even turns it off, while for the first layer to stick properly you actually need the hot filament to cool quickly to get stuck. I hope this helps somebody struggling and finding this comment.
thanks for showing where the damn button is, thumbs up for that !
love the Bruce Lee quote at the end. 3d printing sumed up lol
The thing that goes comes out of the fan and waits to touch the bed then goes up; mine doesn’t go down. First of all, what is that called (the part), second of all what should I do?
Do you refer to the BL touch pin? Was it working before? Mine came with a spare. First check wiring connections. Then check if the pin is stuck or bent.
You can remove the pin by loosening the allen screw on top of the bl touch.
wait, how do you get the plate off the bed? At 3:51 you're rotating it, how did the disconnect it? Is there a manual for this printer anywhere? I'm new to 3d printing, thank you for sharing this video.
You can swing the two front clips that hold the bed plate 180 degrees sideways.
Just wondering my cr-10s pro v2 Z-axis compensation was at 0.60 when I first turned it on. Just wondering if mine is suppose to be at 1.35 to 1.40?
Assuming its a stock creality firmware. 0.6mm places the nozzle above the zero point. -0.6mm brings it lower. As long as it does not put dimples on the bed when you do homing. Do manual leveling press home to save ->auto leveling press home to save again. Then perform Z-offset during a print.
Have to do manual leveling first. ua-cam.com/video/t4EvtRpKpWQ/v-deo.html
btw you should deactivate the economic mode
I already did on the first month I had this machine. Also upgraded to a PEI Bed.
Does yours stop after the print until you select "finish print"?
When the part finishes, nozzle goes up then the bed moves forward. Display indicates "finish print"
@@webslinger2011 do you know how to turn that off?
Just curious, is there a Z axis limit switch and where? Thanks
Not on this machine. It uses BL Touch.
webslinger2011 that’s what I thought and dreaded LOL. Getting a Z homing error although the BL is acting normal X and Y home then a long pause and Z homing error comes up on screen. Need to decide if it’s the breakout board and try and find one or bypass with a regular Z switch and manually level from now on LOL first world problems LOL
Thanks much!
Glad to help out.
Man, it's impossible to miss so much with this equipment, are you serious or are you doing it on purpose ?
Normally, the printer has already printed before it was put in the box.
Have you checked that the plate is well screwed and does not move ? Have you tightened the straps ? Have you checked that the extruder carriage rolls and does not move ?
First ,you have to align the two Z axes with a template ( a small black is provided).
Second, you have to adjust the height of the heated bed on the 4 corners with a sheet of paper or a 0.2mm template, make 2 turns off the board at least for this opération.
Third, The BLtouch is used to compensate for variations in the heating bed at a scale of 0.01mm.
That's it for leveling ! DO NOT ADJUST ANYTHING DURING A PRINT !! just stop it and look what's the problem and the easy way to solve it.
Puts a sponge on the PLA to clean it before the extruder ( to avoid clogging your nozzle because you are not ready for this )
Forget the tape and glue 😤, install a simple Buildtak, set a Cura profile at 0,2mm layer 210°C, bed 55°C print at 40mm/sec move 100mm/sec. to begin print only PLA ( not others filaments) pay attention to the quality and humidity.
Check all fans are running after the 1st layer.
And... Welcome to the world of 3D printing 😁.
Yup, done that and made sure things were reasonably tight. ua-cam.com/video/t4EvtRpKpWQ/v-deo.html
I wondered how their quality control missed a piece of washer inside the unit. Noticed it jingling inside as I was unpacking the unit. Had to open it up on the first day just to remove it.
Also, upgraded to a PEI Magnetic Flex bed. Soooo much easier to remove prints.
What was the point of this video? You showed a problem, how to solve it, but didn't solve it yourself. And then you came with another problem that didn't have anything to do with z-offset? I did not learn anything from this video, neither did I enjoy it. Sorry, but you have my unlike for this video.