Model Railway Wiring Update - Switching Isolated Sidings
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- Опубліковано 30 лис 2024
- The title sounds really complicated, but I'm just cutting one wire and adding a switch. I also explain my color blindness from the previous video.
Here's some links to the tools I used:
Soldering Kit: amzn.to/3NJlyyL
Crimping Tool: amzn.to/3rjPr14
Wire Connectors: amzn.to/43m0cNI
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very nice sharing friend....wonderful layout...big like...greetings from india
Love Watching those videos Think I’m gonna Get those.
Very helpful video , not much I can find on here relating to DC layout wiring and to watch it being done rather than reading about it makes much easier to get my head around
One tip I found to keep track of positive and negative rails is to put a freight car on the track where you know which rail is which, and write on one side "positive" or "red" or whatever word you like. Then, as the car rolls around the layout, you always know which rail is which by the writing on the car.
Great idea. A bit like when your mum put Left and Right on your wellies.
Maybe you should have used red wire as power to the switch. In the US we use red as a power line, like in a three way switch, lol. Just busting your chops. I would use green for the frogs because frogs are green here too, lol. You did a great job wiring the layout and again, congratulations on 1000 subscribers, of which, I’m happy to be one.
To be honest, I'm just using whatever wire I have lying around, lol. Next layout will be much more professional, hehehe, I'm sure everyone says that.
Great instructional video!
Good move forward now the wiring done, I plan to switch my yard storage tracks so theres no current draw to cut down on load and if there a spike in voltage the locos are safe
good to see your Subscriptions are growing well over the 1.1k mark see I am not the only person who likes you ( not in a creepy way)
Looking good.
Thankyou so much for the detail in this video! Cheers
I'm enjoying your videos - engaging and short and sweet. Ive not heard of decoders burning out, as long as you power the whole layout off at night it shouldn't be a problem. Plus if you get sound decoders you'll want power everywhere. Something seperate isolated sections is needed for in dcc is block detection - but that's probably way down your list 🙂
Thanks for a great video! I think he (the video maker) mixed it up a bit, leaving an Analogue DC loco on Digital DCC track will wear out the rotor of the analogue loco. Tip say "analogue" and "digital", so you don't have to keep track of the number of "C".
Most DCC users will use Black/Red for track as when installing DCC decoders Red and Black are track pickups. Orange and Gray to the motor. Blue and White to the headlight. Keeping isolated sections is a good idea as locomotives with constant sound will be irritating. Color coding is very important as wiring gets complicated quickly. I personally color code wires for switch machines (purple) and 5VDC accessory buss (green /white). As long as you know which is which you should be fine. For DCC I would highly recommend NCE. I've used Digitrax but much preferer NCE. I know there are people out there who may disagree, but I find NCE much more reliable and easier to use.
The trouble with NCE and Digitrax is that they are stuck in the mid 1990s. Consider systems from ESU or others that have arrived in the 21st century. Still old and clunky but better, with Bluetooth and full touchscreen features.
@@peterainsworth8466 My NCE is connected to my computer and I use the free software JMRI (Java Model Railroad Interface). JMRI allows me to use both my cellphone (free aps) and computer as throttles. In fact my best friend In Florida (I'm in Massachusetts) can run my layout from his computer. JMRI also does all of my signalling. NCE has an input device (AIU) which allows me to send track detection and turnout position directly to JMRI in my computer. I use many Arduino circuits (very inexpensive) for detection. I have also used Arduino Pro Minis {again cheap) programmed as accessory decoders for signals. Bluetooth uses proprietary hardware (decoders) and software which can be expensive. The software I use is free and the hardware is cheap. It may be old but it is extremely versatile and compatible with many different platforms and hardware. I know I've put a lot out there at once, but I try to get the biggest bang for my buck.
Does NCE and ESU have a usb connection for updates to the command station?
@@derekalexander4030 NCE uses a serial connection between the command station and the computer, you need a serial to USB adapter to the computer. NCE has an upgrade chip that is directly installed into the base station. I believe ESU does have an internet connection for updates.
It looks like you put an insulating rail joiner only on one rail of your "loco line" sidings (where you plan to park your locos). Be sure to put the on-off switch on the wire leading to the insulated track.
I am looking forward to your scenery work.
Definitely two, but I did consider just using one on each, because I'm cheap that way, lol.
@@ScottRails Dare I say it ? A typical Scotsman -- deep pockets, short arms. ;)
(BTW, I have Irish, Scottish and English blood flowing in my veins so its kind of like the pot calling the kettle black. ;) )
DCC interests me, but my layout which is around 45 ft in total size is all DC, I like to the interaction.
Red is also hot if you're running 220 V, or if you're connecting something like a split duplex receptacle. White is Neutral. Black and Red are hot.
In the USA, the white wire is always neutral (-). Green or bare wires are always ground. All other colors are hot (+). This convention pertains to common residential electrical systems. Industrial wiring is a bit different.
I'm king of late to comment but to clear up the wire color dilemma, in DC wiring like in your car, black is ground and red is positive. In AC wiring all colors are hot and white and grey is always neutral, and green and bare copper is always ground.
One big shit is Brown replaced Red as Red looks brown after some time. Not a problem in itself.
But the silly bastards at Mercedes used brown as a negative normally black from battery.
So without me saying have a guess : (
cant you simply create a GAP using an HO RAIL SAW or Dremel in one of the two rails in the Siding , then solder a wire from one of the two posts on the ON/OFF SWITCH to the other rail
and connect the Bus Wire to the other Post on the ON/OFF SWITCH? You DONT USE ANY PLASTIC INSULATING JOINERS IN THIS WAY! The Siding remains either ON or OFF depending upon your preference.
Yes you could. But the plastic rail joiners have a raised section to fill the gap.
🤠🖐🚂
Hi. Just wondering! R u into hot cars? There’s a guy who looks like u and has a u tube channel called Scott cars I think. By chance is that u.
I have another channel called Scott Rods
Nooooooooooo! Never just solder wires together like that. You still risk a dry joint. Twist the wires together first so they're mechanically joined, then add flux and solder the joint.
Normally I would mesh the wires together and twist, but this is solid core wire. Twisting them would just make them weaker.
You should name your "loco line", "Yard Lead" instead. Great video, Thanks for sharing