I would bounce a flash off the ceiling for that type of work instead of bracketing and then just use linear gradient in editing. I've done a heap of Real Estate Photography and I wouldn't be doing bracketing as that's a slow process and then having to stack them simply bouncing a decent flash with a diffuser off the the job really well especially if you've got Back lit windows as well as you can underexpose and then expose the area I've even used a small umbrella which actually I handhold with my ad200 pro. It really helps control the highlights in the windows as well. This was shown to me by another real estate photographer. Using a flash is so much easier than trying to do bracketing because even with bracketing you still get a blown out highlight in the window and then the amount of editing you have to do to get that highlight to be reduced is quite problematic. I use a simple godox diffuser on my flash.... I know the videos is not about technique stuff, but I just couldn't help myself as I would get very frustrated doing it that way. the other thing I would do with the XT5 is get the Viltrox 13mm 1.4.... It's great in low light!!
Hi. Thanks for your suggestion and advice. Yes that does get round the problem of the huge dynamic range and it's something I've done from time to time. The image I used was for a client who specifies no internal lights on and only natural light to maintain their corporate identity so I have work to their specs. Maybe I'll have another look at the technique you talked about at some point. I've heard that the Viltrox 13mm is indeed a great lens. I've been used to a 14mm or 16mm full frame so I think I'd find the 19.5mm equivalent slightly long in a lot of cases. I saw a video on the Meike 10mm f2 manual lens the other day and I might try and have a look at that for the super wide stuff. All the best with your photography.😀
IMO flambient has it's uses for sure (especially when you have an overcast day and can't reschedule or when you need 100% color accuracy for furniture catalogues) but higher end customers such as hotels and architectural firms prefer exposure blending (not automatic HDR merge) as it gives a more accurate representation of the space. I like you, used to shoot with my ad200's bouncing on the ceiling, window pulls and what not and using gradients but your image tends to look real estate-like if that makes sense. I do agree with you that HDR merge is not the way to go unless you want avg results and that the 13mm f1.4 from Viltrox is an amazing lens for the x mount or Sony apsc
Thanks for your comparison! It was helpful.
I'm really happy you found it helpful. Thanks for letting me know. 😀
There is also the Sigma 10-18 2.8 available for the X mount.
Yes that one looks very interesting. I am trying get hold of one to try out so watch this space if you're interested.
I would bounce a flash off the ceiling for that type of work instead of bracketing and then just use linear gradient in editing. I've done a heap of Real Estate Photography and I wouldn't be doing bracketing as that's a slow process and then having to stack them simply bouncing a decent flash with a diffuser off the the job really well especially if you've got Back lit windows as well as you can underexpose and then expose the area I've even used a small umbrella which actually I handhold with my ad200 pro. It really helps control the highlights in the windows as well. This was shown to me by another real estate photographer. Using a flash is so much easier than trying to do bracketing because even with bracketing you still get a blown out highlight in the window and then the amount of editing you have to do to get that highlight to be reduced is quite problematic. I use a simple godox diffuser on my flash.... I know the videos is not about technique stuff, but I just couldn't help myself as I would get very frustrated doing it that way. the other thing I would do with the XT5 is get the Viltrox 13mm 1.4.... It's great in low light!!
Hi. Thanks for your suggestion and advice. Yes that does get round the problem of the huge dynamic range and it's something I've done from time to time. The image I used was for a client who specifies no internal lights on and only natural light to maintain their corporate identity so I have work to their specs. Maybe I'll have another look at the technique you talked about at some point.
I've heard that the Viltrox 13mm is indeed a great lens. I've been used to a 14mm or 16mm full frame so I think I'd find the 19.5mm equivalent slightly long in a lot of cases. I saw a video on the Meike 10mm f2 manual lens the other day and I might try and have a look at that for the super wide stuff.
All the best with your photography.😀
IMO flambient has it's uses for sure (especially when you have an overcast day and can't reschedule or when you need 100% color accuracy for furniture catalogues) but higher end customers such as hotels and architectural firms prefer exposure blending (not automatic HDR merge) as it gives a more accurate representation of the space. I like you, used to shoot with my ad200's bouncing on the ceiling, window pulls and what not and using gradients but your image tends to look real estate-like if that makes sense. I do agree with you that HDR merge is not the way to go unless you want avg results and that the 13mm f1.4 from Viltrox is an amazing lens for the x mount or Sony apsc