I am a new viewer and first off thank you for not using the annoying background music that everybody else uses. And for just being real I look forward to watching the rest of your videos and I will subscribe. I am new to the off-grid thing in Arizona preparing to build my own system. Looking forward to learning as much as I can before hand. Hope you're having a super day.
That's amazing! thanks for letting me know, I hope you can find everything on my channel that will help you! I wish you the best, if you have questions on my videos please post a comment!
yes I have been liking both of mine and I kept going over 3000w with the ACs running and the central vac would push it over, so here is the 8000w :), I will let everyone know if its a good buy or not.
I like his video's to ! He seems like a nice honest person. If I knew him I probably would drink beer there on the weekends with him and tinker around with some of the equipment there as I have similar equipment here. We are both into the same hobby. PLUS IT KEEPS US WARM AND GIVES US LIGHT !
I have to agree with you that the midnite with the shunt and wizbang are one of the best combos on the market, I too have had a few controllers and found the midnite to be the best so far. I have two midnite 150's and two shunts with two wizbangs and they work so well together at you can link them together and they talk to each other. Keep up the uploads, liking the 8000 watt inverter a lot , I just upgraded from a cheep Asian 3000 watt to a Nomad 4000 watt PSW 24V and it works so much better, was thinking 48V but will wait a few years now , 230 VAC 50Hz.
buy the newer model its better! www.ebay.ca/itm/8000W-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter-12V-24V-36-48V-DC-to-120-240V-Solar-Power-Inverter/201588624870?hash=item2eef9e4de6:g:p~AAAOSw3hFdaIvf
Wish you would of put up a link on the midnite classic charge controller, & what all actually in detail do you run with that 8000 watt inverter in your home
I'm not even going to get into as to what an awesome system you have there! Way over my head! BUT, what I can't figure out is why Reliable, and probably other inverter manufacturers, have the same 'ole way underrated AC output wiring! I have a Reliable 3500W unit that has nearly the same skinny wires as your 8KW! 8000 watts @ 120 volts is like 66 amps? The inverter using like 14ga wire to standard 15 amp AC outlets? This is insane! Even the hard wired terminal block is using the same wire! This is like using lamp cord wire in your car from the battery to the starter! If this inverter was submitted to UL for certification, it would be laughed right out of the building! Since when is it OK to push 8000 watts though 14ga wire? That inverter, like mine even, needs a 15 amp breaker to each built in outlet AND a heavy duty twist lock or crowsfoot socket for the hard wired section. The internal wiring should be 6ga at least. WTF!
my 8000w inverter uses 12 gauge to the outlets and 8 gauge to the hard wire side, still a little skimpy but it ran a 6500w load with out getting warm :)
Hello Curt Chase - you are damn right there in your said points of wire gauges, I totally support you. Even I doubt this unit will not run with 7KW load for an hour or some more ? For drivers, I think those are not Mosfets, may be Hexfets or IGBTs. No heat management seen so far. What do you say ?
@@GautamKumarGoswami There is something called chassis waiting. Awg is a standard for LINE runs only. In inverter and computer chassis you will never seen runs over 2 ft. Take a look at a 2000w PC power supply it's the same gauge with DC amps at that. These inverters are awesome.
My ReliableElectric 3500W appears to have a "floating ground". I'm thinking I may need to connect only the hot and neutral, leaving the ground wire disconnected. What did you do regarding connection of the ground wire?
@@GoingOffGrid101 In the video (@ ~1:31), it looks like you only have a hot and neutral connected to the 8000W inverter (no ground wire). Is my vision accurate (ground left disconnected on the 8000W inverter?
hi i have a problem with the output of my EPEVER UPOWER inverter/charger i correctly connected my inverter to ground but when i test with a multimeter i have 115 volts between neutral and ground also 115 volts between live and ground !! it is very dangerous what is the problem and what is the solution ?
Good Morning. I bought one from 5000 watts to 240v. I have a question how I connect the cables. The colors are black. Red and yellow. The black and red has 240v. Yellow is neutral or earth. Thank you
yes a 1500-3000w reliable would be the best cheap option, or you could go samlex or xantrex or gopower inverters for a little higher end but they cost a lot more as well.
Have you tried the 48v 5000w unit? Wanna run my ac, refrigerator, and occasionally portable power saw, what do u recommend? Or should i get the 8000w 48v instead?
Your hard wires inside look more like 8 gauge unless Canadian wire sizes are different than American sizing. Also, some of that string of diodes could possibly be solid state temp sensors. Also, your pure pure sine wave is not produced or determined by that LARGE oblong torrid coil wrapped in yellow. It is determined by the type of oscillator that is in the heart of the unit. That large yellow coil is more likely for filtering harmonic noise out of your pure sine wave signal or filtering external electronic noise from coming in and causing false triggering of your power MOSFETS.
thanks for the info! yes the hard wire is heavy duty and can take a lot of power, I ran 8500w through it and popped it :D but I only have to get a new output board and I was back up and running.
I'm considering using a victron energy MPPT charge controller, and the 60v 3000 watt Reliable inverter. They will be connected to a 16s 21.5kwh 58.4v nominal li-ion battery, made from lg 18650 cells. Do you have any knowledge with that controller? Or how it compares with the midnight classic.
If money was no issue. What size reliable Inverter would you use to run your house. Or how many? I'm thinking about my mom's house. Running it off grid. With grid backup. What's the biggest they make? I'd say I could easily run my house form A 3kw easy. I don't pull much from my 5kw. That I would never expect 5 kw from. I'd say 3-4 max with 5 kw surge. It is a low frequency design. Keep at it !!!
not sure why im not getting notified anymore, if money was not a problem I would buy a magnasine 4400w inverter, of if you cant spend $3000 on a inverter then I would get the 8000w reliable for $1000.
Awesome! I hope it works as well as the other did. I look forward to when you get your BMS's fixed and can push it. I'm wondering though, I see flooded lead acid batteries there and you're talking BMS boards so I'm assuming those others are Lithium. Can you run both battery types together in the same system?? I'm still in the experimenting stage and just bought some deep cycle batteries at Wal-Mart to learn with. After just 4 months 1 battery Is as good as dead and the others seem to be operating at about 1/2 the rated capacity. IDK. Very frustrating. I was hoping they would last a couple years figuring Lithium would continue to get cheaper.
I am not able to use both battery banks on one inverter as the gel bank is 48 volts and lithium is 60 volts, walmart batteries are really bad for solar :) I will be pushing this thing more soon.
I figured out the battery thing. What's happening is that I have the 8 batteries set up in 2 - 48v banks, and then those 2 banks are hooked in parallel. So having just 1 battery with 1 dead cell dropped the voltage of bank #1 by 2+ volts. That meant all the power was being pulled out of bank #2 until it had dropped by 2 volts. So that 1 dead cell was effectively taking half the bank out of action. I'm going to replace that battery today and rewire the whole thing as 1 big 48v bank. I've actually had very good luck with the Wal-Mart deep cycle batteries in much of my other farm equipment, carts and such. They've lasted just as long as the name brand batteries for me. As this is just an experiment at this stage, I figured to make some mistakes, and I prefer my mistakes cost me hundreds and not thousands. Obviously over the long run it's going to be lithium.
If you could, remember when you start testing that beast to get a no load usage measurement. I would expect it to be more than the 3kw but maybe not?? Live and learn. Nice they gave you some wires with it. Seems like a good company.
From what I see inside I know this inverter can handle 8000w max peak 7000w for longer periods from the build, do not try to get 16000w from it it will blow up 100%, at 7000w its a still a seal of a deal, these companies are trying to compete with bad no name Chinese companies so they have to put the highest possible wattage it can out put.
Can you give more info on the 8000 watt unit, do you believe it is good enough to use on a Bus conversion. I found it on Amazon it says it is good for 120 and 220 VAC and up to 48VDC, did you find this to be true of your's. Thank you for any help or input. Scott
it can do 120 or 240 not both you will have to tell them what voltage on the input and output you would like and 50 herts or 60herts, and if you are using in a moving environment I would pack soft foam under the unit to help with vibrations.
I liked mine but I did end up testing it to its max 8000w anx then added another 500w for a total of 8500 and she died, but they have a newer 8000w im going to be testing soon
hello Iv been asking around, my reliable 24v 2500 blinks read at over 28vs. my baterry supplier says to equalize at almost 32 volts,, what will happed to the inverter if I take it that high? You said you have talked to reliable? do you have their number? thanks
I have one of these power inverters in the 6000 watt version. What kind of batteries are you running? How long can you run something at 6000 watts? I'm just experimenting with this stuff on my RV. I purchased 2 325 amp alternators on for my RV, but without the RV running, I can't more than 1000 watts worth of stuff very long on 3 acid batteries.
yea that is normal, you need to look into lithium batteries for your RV much much lighter and you could get 20Kwh of batteries on that rid easy. also its 6000w peak so dont run more then 4500w for to long, also make sure the inverter has lots of room around it as it through's a bit of heat.
Any recommendations on lithium batteries? I have used a few different calculators and came up with 600 amps needed to fully power my inverter at 6000 watts. With that, It would take 12 batteries to last only a few minutes. Maybe I'm doing this completely wrong. How would a person achieve 6000 watts for at least an hour?
o you have a 12v inverter I see, well in that cause it will be very hard to get more then 3000w out of that inverter with out the engine running, unless you have at least a 600Ah battery bank with very large cables and short cable runs.
this is what I bought. www.ebay.ca/itm/ANNKE-720P-Wireless-2000TVL-Network-Security-IP-Camera-Microphone-Video-Wifi-P2P/291695169939?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Maybe better to take more precautions when messing with batteries so you don't get Ark overs like that as you could have set your battery room on fire (but it seems the bms boards died before that could happen) still be Intresting how much it holds up that 6000-7000 w inverter (they should state its constant load with burst load, where they are only saying the burst load witch can't be held for more then a few minutes) as the smaller inverters I have had norm have both written on them
When you have a similar system,you will see sparks! I have sparked mine a few times.I have learned to cover the battery terminals and the input connections.
I would have sent it back after seeing the AC outlet wiring ! At best it looked like 14awg which is only rated for 12 to 15 amp max. A 8000 watt inverter should have had min. 12awg or even 10awg at least a rating of 20 to 30 amps cheaply made,
those plugs them self are rated at 15 amps so changing the wire wont help to much, you can only pull 8000w through the hard wire on the front that is 10 gauge
The thing that bothers me aout a non ul rated inverter. Can you do a volt demonstration on the voltage between hot and nuetral 120vish, hot and ground 60v ish, nuetral and ground 60v ish? I dont run a ground because of this.Mine is 40v h to g and 90v n to g. I dont like.
yes the ground is half live and can not be used or inverter goes boom, but you can ground everything before the inverter and after the inverter and that will cover most problems.
does it do the stupid red light error and lights are flashing when the voltage is over 27 volts at 24 volt system so at your system doe it have this mistake at 54 volts and over?thank you
Thanks for your vids. Haven’t gotten to All of them, but I enjoyed this one. Side Note: haven’t yet met a Canadian that I didn’t Like ! Good People ! Back to subject. Do you have a Down N Dirty quick couple of Recommended Units in the 2500-3500W continuous range (12VDC to 110120VAC) ? Putting in small Jeep, and Steep Learning Curve !
for a cheaper unit I would get a 4000w or better 5000w reliable inverter your jeep will never be able to run more then 3000w but if you ever add a few more batteries you might be able to get close to 4000w :) or if you limmit you usege to under 2500w the 3000w inverter is also an option, other that that you have the big names like (go power, samlex, xantrex, magnasine, ) all great inverters, reliable is also good but a lot cheaper.
Going Off Grid Appreciated. Might set up an isolated battery charger & battery in future, but financially, I have to do it in phases. The high end brands are simply out of range for me .... though I DESPISE catering to “CHEAP Chinese products”. I have to sometimes go contrary to my conscience, and buy what I can afford. Regarding wattage, the limiting factor there is the SIZE of the unit. It’s not like mounting in a camper van or RV .... it’s a SMALL Old Two Door Cherokee. Again, THANKS
I have had the same idea for some time, but it was my understanding that, fundamentally, DC electrons travel around the outside of the wire which is why DC cables are alway multi-strand wire and AC goes through the center of wire which is why AC wire is a single conductor. So, it looks like you have proved that can be worked around. I think it just makes so much sense to do what you did and it is so much less expensive. Have you been challenged on this by "experts" ? Anyway, Thank You so much for your videos they are down to earth so that us regular beginners can understand and I learn a great deal from you even though I lack your understanding of electrical/electronics.
yes I have but I have shown me running massive loads through it and no heat :) it saved me a ton of money and it looks nicer to me, thanks for watching glad My little knowledge can help others :)
I found your videos and I've been watching them all over the last couple of days, I noticed that you have used inverters from both reliable energy, and swipower , I've been looking at both of these companies as well for a 5,000 watt inverter. I wanted to know which inverter brand you prefer or think is best and why. Also where do you find that 8,000 watt model?
the Reliable is a better I had 3 swi inverters and all 3 broke, I have 4 reliable inverter and they work well, I have had a few people tell be they burnt their reliable inverters but most are from trying to use the ground on the inverter and bind it to the neutral, these inverter have a half live ground and it can not be used when hooked to a house.
Thanks for the reply, the reliable sounds like a good fit then. I picked up 18 ja 320 watt panels the other day and looking forward to get the other devices to get things hooked up. Any chance you have a detailed video showing way it should be wired or a drawing of some sort? Is this true in just a grid tie situation or also a off grid?
you can use both lives just do not use the ground on the inverter, you can ground the panels and the house but leave the inverter ungrounded or it blows up :)
I like to have one of the best and one of the cheapest/bang for buck, keeps people interested, there are so many people buying power jack and im trying to find them a better inverter manufacturer.
Without past 1 minute maybe 2 4kw inverters (not sure if would trust 8kw at 110v the amps be high ), guess not ones I seen in the past have been 2 inverters connected to each other
Going Off Grid, they are good for spotting hot spots and point if possible failure later on due to component overload also good are looking at solar panels that are not operating correctly and have hot spots, as solar panels that have high resistance are more likely to be hotter than the other solar panels so pull overall power output down, as well as good for checking connection so you can check to see if you have any bad connections or cables that are generating resistance causing to heat up and possibly melt
Be nice if the bms boards had a load indicator on them, I would recommend still getting a thermal cam at some point as its more reliable then hand test and you can just stand back and look at what is warm then move closer to heat source
it has a hard wire, but the ground and neutral can not be bind as the neutral is live and if bound to the ground will act like a dead short and blow the inverter.
Is this a reliable company though i bought an inverter from renogy and i to send in my inverter but their customer service is not very good they currently have my inverter and they asked to confirm my shipping address and i did a few days ago and havent heard anything since so im looking at changing to a different inverter/company im looking this one one from Aims and Energizer although its modified sine wave but it comes with two year warranty plus you can buy an additional 4yrs lol sorry for rambling new to off grid
On your 3000W inverter appears to have... ... You have a - 4 pairs - 2x mos-fet-s IRFP4668 - 9.7m ohm - maiby from Infineon. This is a 130A at 25 deg celsius and 92A continous at 100deg celsius, with 520A pulse. With 4 pairs, and 4 transformers ( you have 4 sets that can handel around 368A for a short time ) - and a very small impulse of 2.000A ... !!! You will never reach this... Will blow many other component in the way.... 368A on 48V = 17.600W - 17KW. as an impulse. You can start any applyance. The limits are the transformers, wires, and many others.... ... IN REALITY = on maximum 3.000W you will have 17A per pair, on 4 pairs = 68 A in a 48V sistem . This inverter will run almoust non stop. ................................................................................................................................................................................................... Let`s go to your new 8.000W. here you have F59N30 - 56m ohm - 59A at 25deg celsius and 35A continous at 100deg celsius and 230A pulse ( disipate 5 times more heat in running regards to - IRFP4668 ) When you run a 8.000 W model it will be hotter than 3.000 W modell. There are people who observe that. ... in this 8.000W model you have 9 pairs. 9pairs x 35A = 315 Amps max continous --- ATTENTION !!! smaller maximum current than 3000W modell !!! Maximum pulse can be 230A x 9 pairs = 2070Amps , the same as 3000W modell.... ... IN REALITY = 8000W ... WILL HAVE TOTAL -181Amps - IN 9 PAIR = 20Amps - PER PAIR OF TRANZISTORS and transformer ... ( equal with your fuses2x10A, probably something bad calculations, or a scam ) ... YOU MUST CHANGE THE TRANZISTOR, PUT THE ORIGINAL THAT ARE IN 3000W MODELL - IRFP4668... Of course, if there are damage in control board must be repaired. The fuse 2x10A must be bigger, migt be used 2 x 15A. fuse
I don’t believe this inverter can do 8kw for very long. The input cables are not heavy enough with out going into thermal failure. I would definitely beef those up. Only two outlets to split off an 8kw load? All thinks being equal each plug would carry 36 amps each at 110V AC. Those are only 15 amp plugs.
The first models have good compnents, mayby more expensive. ... The demand increase and now, the new models are poor in quality. Cheaper tranzistors - MOS-FET-s .... resulting in hotter inverters and smaller power... burn immediately with 2.000W motors that drain 6.000W on start.
interesting have you tested them? the newer one I have has igbt instead of mosfets witch cost more... and they just released a new 8000w inverter I hope to test soon
Company cheeped out on the heat sink grease on the mosfets. I see none. Bad! If you load it for long periods of time they will not hold up. This is a money maker for companies.
The conclusion is that your 3000W inverter has the same imput current capacity as your 8000W inverter. Here apears a scam... !!! .... Look at the pair of MOS-FET-s in your 3000W inverter, thouse IRFP4668... Are very good components for tis application. In your 8000W model shoud be the same tranzistors.... Maiby the price is huy, but quality costs. .... Attention to those fuses... in 3000W inverter usualy do not blow those 10Afuse. in 8000W inverter those fuse blow evry day... Fuse are under rated... A normal shoud be 12-15A x 2 pcs. And the correct MOS-FET-s. must be placed.
You need at least 8 k to go off grid completely preferably 1000 K and about 40 12-volt batteries.,,.... With at least 4 k of solar power anything less than that is just a waste
Contrary to manufacturer reliable power. These units really have little or no short circuit protection and will destroy the unit if you wire it incorrectly from the output sockets / connections. Be careful out there. Get a professional to wire up.
I am a new viewer and first off thank you for not using the annoying background music that everybody else uses. And for just being real I look forward to watching the rest of your videos and I will subscribe. I am new to the off-grid thing in Arizona preparing to build my own system. Looking forward to learning as much as I can before hand. Hope you're having a super day.
That's amazing! thanks for letting me know, I hope you can find everything on my channel that will help you! I wish you the best, if you have questions on my videos please post a comment!
assume looking inverter if it is like the others it should rock on. I am glad you did not short it. looking forward to updates
yes I have been liking both of mine and I kept going over 3000w with the ACs running and the central vac would push it over, so here is the 8000w :), I will let everyone know if its a good buy or not.
You always make me feel happy whenever I watch your videos.Tnx a million and keep making me happy.God bless you.
thank you, I am very blessed thanks for watching! you seem to be blessed as well :)
I like his video's to ! He seems like a nice honest person. If I knew him I probably would drink beer there on the weekends with him and tinker around with some of the equipment there as I have similar equipment here. We are both into the same hobby. PLUS IT KEEPS US WARM AND GIVES US LIGHT !
I have to agree with you that the midnite with the shunt and wizbang are one of the best combos on the market, I too have had a few controllers and found the midnite to be the best so far. I have two midnite 150's and two shunts with two wizbangs and they work so well together at you can link them together and they talk to each other. Keep up the uploads, liking the 8000 watt inverter a lot , I just upgraded from a cheep Asian 3000 watt to a Nomad 4000 watt PSW 24V and it works so much better, was thinking 48V but will wait a few years now , 230 VAC 50Hz.
yes I love them, i have 2 as well cant wait to set it up! the 8000w is working so well i love it.
That is awesome I am just building my off grid homestead system looking forward to the load test
buy the newer model its better!
www.ebay.ca/itm/8000W-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter-12V-24V-36-48V-DC-to-120-240V-Solar-Power-Inverter/201588624870?hash=item2eef9e4de6:g:p~AAAOSw3hFdaIvf
You have it to an art. Enjoy your hard work! 👍
thank you!
God i cant wait till i buy a house next month so i can start with my projects
Of course is your favorite charge controller.... 👍 is the best there is... 👍 or should we say "the best money could buy"...
Nice brother! That joker is big. Thanks for showing us.
Unboxing is is he best part of this product
"it only aboot 2 weeks maybe " - thats when i knew he was canadian. 1 second later: "to canada" lmfao perfect
I'd like to know about the battery monitor! That looks like something I can use!
I'd love to see an O-scope on the output before i buy one
Love to see your videos. inspiring..
thanks you! share them if you can :)
What is idle current draw of big boy 8k with no load ....👍
And did you think about active balancers...? They are no affected by any load.....👍
it takes about 30-35w no load, I like my bms atm so I dont know if I want to spend a few hundred on those balancers
Also good.....👍
I am impressed such a small idle current draw...... 👍
I hope it will last......
Good job buddy.
Thanks for sharing this awesome video
Very nice that's one big ass inverter .
Hey nice ruckuss solar sound speaker have sane one lol.
haha yea it works well
Wish you would of put up a link on the midnite classic charge controller, & what all actually in detail do you run with that 8000 watt inverter in your home
I bought it local, id have to look it up same as you for where to buy.
8000 watts, wow. Didn't even know they made them that big
Thank you for your reply.
Great video brother , I may try reliable again one day
haha but wait till im finished the testing! it could go boom! I like it a lot so far.
jeff bragg don't do it
Does shorting a BMS' output normally damage it? (Assuming it's middlemanning lithium cells that can push 1000's of amps.)
It destroys it yes
I'm not even going to get into as to what an awesome system you have there! Way over my head! BUT, what I can't figure out is why Reliable, and probably other inverter manufacturers, have the same 'ole way underrated AC output wiring! I have a Reliable 3500W unit that has nearly the same skinny wires as your 8KW! 8000 watts @ 120 volts is like 66 amps? The inverter using like 14ga wire to standard 15 amp AC outlets? This is insane! Even the hard wired terminal block is using the same wire! This is like using lamp cord wire in your car from the battery to the starter! If this inverter was submitted to UL for certification, it would be laughed right out of the building! Since when is it OK to push 8000 watts though 14ga wire? That inverter, like mine even, needs a 15 amp breaker to each built in outlet AND a heavy duty twist lock or crowsfoot socket for the hard wired section. The internal wiring should be 6ga at least. WTF!
my 8000w inverter uses 12 gauge to the outlets and 8 gauge to the hard wire side, still a little skimpy but it ran a 6500w load with out getting warm :)
Ahh! OK then. Couldn't really tell by the video. I guess the fact that the wires are only a few inches long, that may just make it. Hmm. Thanks!
Hello Curt Chase - you are damn right there in your said points of wire gauges, I totally support you. Even I doubt this unit will not run with 7KW load for an hour or some more ? For drivers, I think those are not Mosfets, may be Hexfets or IGBTs. No heat management seen so far. What do you say ?
@@GautamKumarGoswami There is something called chassis waiting. Awg is a standard for LINE runs only. In inverter and computer chassis you will never seen runs over 2 ft. Take a look at a 2000w PC power supply it's the same gauge with DC amps at that. These inverters are awesome.
cool video bro sorry about the bms board keep testing thumbs up
My ReliableElectric 3500W appears to have a "floating ground". I'm thinking I may need to connect only the hot and neutral, leaving the ground wire disconnected. What did you do regarding connection of the ground wire?
i would try a small light bulb like 20w between ground and neutral if it doesn't light up your ok to bond ground to neutral.
@@GoingOffGrid101 In the video (@ ~1:31), it looks like you only have a hot and neutral connected to the 8000W inverter (no ground wire). Is my vision accurate (ground left disconnected on the 8000W inverter?
@@ktraglin yes your right I did use it like that for months
hi i have a problem with the output of my EPEVER UPOWER inverter/charger
i correctly connected my inverter to ground but when i test with a multimeter i have 115 volts between neutral and ground also 115 volts between live and ground !!
it is very dangerous
what is the problem and what is the solution ?
Good Morning. I bought one from 5000 watts to 240v. I have a question how I connect the cables. The colors are black. Red and yellow. The black and red has 240v. Yellow is neutral or earth. Thank you
You have a really nice and big setup but how many amp hours total is your battery bank and how many watts total are your solar panels just curious?
I have around 80-100Kw of storage and only 3700w of solar hooked up atm and only 14kw of battery hooked up atm as well
i would like to know if i can get one of these for use for my home studio to power up my desktop computer and other electronics any recomendations
yes a 1500-3000w reliable would be the best cheap option, or you could go samlex or xantrex or gopower inverters for a little higher end but they cost a lot more as well.
ok now my question is how would i know if it wont burn my desktop power supply or have any kind of effects .. like 12v or how many amps or what not
and how can i recharge the power inverter and i need something that can last battery wise
and ohh i would like to know if there is a power inverter that i can charge directly from a outlet or it has to be from a battery car ?
pure sine wave is what you want a inverter to say on it, then it will be good for everything.
Looking good man!
I don't see the 8000w model listed for sale anywhere - can you provide a link.
Thanks
Jan
www.ebay.ca/itm/8000W-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter-12V-24V-dc-to-120-220V-ac-Solar-Power-Inverter/201588624870?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Have you tried the 48v 5000w unit? Wanna run my ac, refrigerator, and occasionally portable power saw, what do u recommend? Or should i get the 8000w 48v instead?
i would get the 8000w for the extra head room
Your hard wires inside look more like 8 gauge unless Canadian wire sizes are different than American sizing. Also, some of that string of diodes could possibly be solid state temp sensors. Also, your pure pure sine wave is not produced or determined by that LARGE oblong torrid coil wrapped in yellow. It is determined by the type of oscillator that is in the heart of the unit. That large yellow coil is more likely for filtering harmonic noise out of your pure sine wave signal or filtering external electronic noise from coming in and causing false triggering of your power MOSFETS.
thanks for the info! yes the hard wire is heavy duty and can take a lot of power, I ran 8500w through it and popped it :D but I only have to get a new output board and I was back up and running.
Hi, Any update on the 8kw inverter? Still running well? What's your opinion on high frequency inverters compared to low frequency? Are they reliable?
I love my 8000w but that 8000w is more of a peak I wouldn't pull more then 7000w from this inverter witch is still a good deal.
What window units do you use? Do they have a low starting current?
no they are very high starting current.
I'm considering using a victron energy MPPT charge controller, and the 60v 3000 watt Reliable inverter. They will be connected to a 16s 21.5kwh 58.4v nominal li-ion battery, made from lg 18650 cells. Do you have any knowledge with that controller? Or how it compares with the midnight classic.
no i have no idea on it :S
Are the Reliable Electric inverters what you would recommend for something running 24/7 at 1/3 or 1/2 load?
if you are looking at the cheaper end yes 100% if you can afford 3 times more I would get a magnum 4400 for about $2700
Is The Magnum With or Without Shipping + Taxes
Cause If You Want a Magnum For Less I Can Give You a Place If You Want With FREE Shipping
If money was no issue. What size reliable Inverter would you use to run your house. Or how many? I'm thinking about my mom's house. Running it off grid. With grid backup. What's the biggest they make? I'd say I could easily run my house form A 3kw easy. I don't pull much from my 5kw. That I would never expect 5 kw from. I'd say 3-4 max with 5 kw surge. It is a low frequency design. Keep at it !!!
not sure why im not getting notified anymore, if money was not a problem I would buy a magnasine 4400w inverter, of if you cant spend $3000 on a inverter then I would get the 8000w reliable for $1000.
Awesome! I hope it works as well as the other did. I look forward to when you get your BMS's fixed and can push it.
I'm wondering though, I see flooded lead acid batteries there and you're talking BMS boards so I'm assuming those others are Lithium. Can you run both battery types together in the same system??
I'm still in the experimenting stage and just bought some deep cycle batteries at Wal-Mart to learn with. After just 4 months 1 battery Is as good as dead and the others seem to be operating at about 1/2 the rated capacity. IDK. Very frustrating. I was hoping they would last a couple years figuring Lithium would continue to get cheaper.
I am not able to use both battery banks on one inverter as the gel bank is 48 volts and lithium is 60 volts, walmart batteries are really bad for solar :) I will be pushing this thing more soon.
I figured out the battery thing. What's happening is that I have the 8 batteries set up in 2 - 48v banks, and then those 2 banks are hooked in parallel. So having just 1 battery with 1 dead cell dropped the voltage of bank #1 by 2+ volts. That meant all the power was being pulled out of bank #2 until it had dropped by 2 volts. So that 1 dead cell was effectively taking half the bank out of action. I'm going to replace that battery today and rewire the whole thing as 1 big 48v bank.
I've actually had very good luck with the Wal-Mart deep cycle batteries in much of my other farm equipment, carts and such. They've lasted just as long as the name brand batteries for me. As this is just an experiment at this stage, I figured to make some mistakes, and I prefer my mistakes cost me hundreds and not thousands. Obviously over the long run it's going to be lithium.
im glad you found the problem! the walmart batteries are great as long as you dont deep cycle them.
If you could, remember when you start testing that beast to get a no load usage measurement. I would expect it to be more than the 3kw but maybe not?? Live and learn. Nice they gave you some wires with it. Seems like a good company.
35 watts no load
Ebay description says 8k cont 16k surge, where did you get the 7k cont. from.
From what I see inside I know this inverter can handle 8000w max peak 7000w for longer periods from the build, do not try to get 16000w from it it will blow up 100%, at 7000w its a still a seal of a deal, these companies are trying to compete with bad no name Chinese companies so they have to put the highest possible wattage it can out put.
Even if it was 5k max it's price still seems good to me.
Can you give more info on the 8000 watt unit, do you believe it is good enough to use on a Bus conversion. I found it on Amazon it says it is good for 120 and 220 VAC and up to 48VDC, did you find this to be true of your's. Thank you for any help or input. Scott
it can do 120 or 240 not both you will have to tell them what voltage on the input and output you would like and 50 herts or 60herts, and if you are using in a moving environment I would pack soft foam under the unit to help with vibrations.
Monster inverter
it has been more than one year since the video how your inverter is doing, mine a sigineer I'm not sure all my electronics clocks are delayed
I liked mine but I did end up testing it to its max 8000w anx then added another 500w for a total of 8500 and she died, but they have a newer 8000w im going to be testing soon
Does this 8000w dont have warning beep if reached the load limit? I think the company should do that.
@@mrbmobilephotobooth2738 no it does not.
hello Iv been asking around, my reliable 24v 2500 blinks read at over 28vs. my baterry supplier says to equalize at almost 32 volts,, what will happed to the inverter if I take it that high? You said you have talked to reliable? do you have their number? thanks
I have emailed them through ebay, and if you go to high in voltage the inverter will shut down.
I have one of these power inverters in the 6000 watt version. What kind of batteries are you running? How long can you run something at 6000 watts? I'm just experimenting with this stuff on my RV. I purchased 2 325 amp alternators on for my RV, but without the RV running, I can't more than 1000 watts worth of stuff very long on 3 acid batteries.
yea that is normal, you need to look into lithium batteries for your RV much much lighter and you could get 20Kwh of batteries on that rid easy. also its 6000w peak so dont run more then 4500w for to long, also make sure the inverter has lots of room around it as it through's a bit of heat.
Any recommendations on lithium batteries? I have used a few different calculators and came up with 600 amps needed to fully power my inverter at 6000 watts. With that, It would take 12 batteries to last only a few minutes. Maybe I'm doing this completely wrong. How would a person achieve 6000 watts for at least an hour?
o you have a 12v inverter I see, well in that cause it will be very hard to get more then 3000w out of that inverter with out the engine running, unless you have at least a 600Ah battery bank with very large cables and short cable runs.
Well how many volts are you using?
my inverter is 60 volts
Sounds like you need to have a giveaway with those extra charge controllers....
haha, might do that at 10k subs but for 5k subs I might do a inverter giveaway :)
Very cool!!! What monitoring program are you using on your phone? I have the classic 150 also and use the local app.
cant think of it will check tomorrow
Like Gene I was looking for a remote monitoring system, was that something you can share?
this is what I bought.
www.ebay.ca/itm/ANNKE-720P-Wireless-2000TVL-Network-Security-IP-Camera-Microphone-Video-Wifi-P2P/291695169939?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
you bought an IP camera that shows your watts? on your phone? We are talking about 18:58 your phone shows a graph of watts
the one with the graph is the neurio home monitor system
Can you. Keep the bonded house ground the same or do you have to go 2 prong ?
you keep the house bonded yes, and you can ground before and after the inverter, the only part not used is the ground right off the inverter.
Maybe better to take more precautions when messing with batteries so you don't get Ark overs like that as you could have set your battery room on fire (but it seems the bms boards died before that could happen)
still be Intresting how much it holds up that 6000-7000 w inverter (they should state its constant load with burst load, where they are only saying the burst load witch can't be held for more then a few minutes) as the smaller inverters I have had norm have both written on them
all I know so far is this thing kicks power jacks but and is almost the same price :)
When you have a similar system,you will see sparks! I have sparked mine a few times.I have learned to cover the battery terminals and the input connections.
I would have sent it back after seeing the AC outlet wiring ! At best it looked like 14awg which is only rated for 12 to 15 amp max. A 8000 watt inverter should have had min. 12awg or even 10awg at least a rating of 20 to 30 amps cheaply made,
those plugs them self are rated at 15 amps so changing the wire wont help to much, you can only pull 8000w through the hard wire on the front that is 10 gauge
Veri good👍
Maybe you should invest in fuses! Protect the bms.
JAMES! Since the 70's my inverter from this company blew up caught fire don't buy this one all fuses we're good btw
The thing that bothers me aout a non ul rated inverter. Can you do a volt demonstration on the voltage between hot and nuetral 120vish, hot and ground 60v ish, nuetral and ground 60v ish? I dont run a ground because of this.Mine is 40v h to g and 90v n to g. I dont like.
If you run a breaker box the neutral is live
yes the ground is half live and can not be used or inverter goes boom, but you can ground everything before the inverter and after the inverter and that will cover most problems.
I do.
What do you think about the Tesla Power wall ??
I like it, as long as you get it at a good price, 7Kw is helpful but I would get at lease 14kw
How is it holding up, would you recommend it?
Not the 8000w, the 4000w and lower are good for the price, this 8000w has issues and blows at around a year to two years :(
how the inverter is doing it has been almost 9 month
good I ended up overloading it at 8000w and blew some fets, id stay under 6500w and your safe
does it do the stupid red light error and lights are flashing when the voltage is over 27 volts at 24 volt system so at your system doe it have this mistake at 54 volts and over?thank you
no i asked them for 46 volt to 72 volts and its vert close to my asking voltage.
I have red light on 24volt 5000w pure sine reliable. Is that for high voltage?
hi can you tell me what is the app you used to monitor the power and what item i knead to used the app thank you att Hector
neurio home monitor.
Those are lead acid batteries? What kind?
Thanks for your vids. Haven’t gotten to All of them, but I enjoyed this one. Side Note: haven’t yet met a Canadian that I didn’t Like ! Good People !
Back to subject. Do you have a Down N Dirty quick couple of Recommended Units in the 2500-3500W continuous range (12VDC to 110120VAC) ? Putting in small Jeep, and Steep Learning Curve !
for a cheaper unit I would get a 4000w or better 5000w reliable inverter your jeep will never be able to run more then 3000w but if you ever add a few more batteries you might be able to get close to 4000w :)
or if you limmit you usege to under 2500w the 3000w inverter is also an option, other that that you have the big names like (go power, samlex, xantrex, magnasine, ) all great inverters, reliable is also good but a lot cheaper.
Going Off Grid Appreciated. Might set up an isolated battery charger & battery in future, but financially, I have to do it in phases. The high end brands are simply out of range for me .... though I DESPISE catering to “CHEAP Chinese products”. I have to sometimes go contrary to my conscience, and buy what I can afford.
Regarding wattage, the limiting factor there is the SIZE of the unit. It’s not like mounting in a camper van or RV .... it’s a SMALL Old Two Door Cherokee.
Again, THANKS
in that case the 3000w is alot smaller and would serve you well.
Is that squashed copper pipe you are using to connect your batteries ?
yes it is its 3/4 inch copper pipe and I have tested for 400 amps and doesn't even get warm.
I have had the same idea for some time, but it was my understanding that, fundamentally, DC electrons travel around the outside of the wire which is why DC cables are alway multi-strand wire and AC goes through the center of wire which is why AC wire is a single conductor. So, it looks like you have proved that can be worked around. I think it just makes so much sense to do what you did and it is so much less expensive.
Have you been challenged on this by "experts" ?
Anyway, Thank You so much for your videos they are down to earth so that us regular beginners can understand and I learn a great deal from you even though I lack your understanding of electrical/electronics.
yes I have but I have shown me running massive loads through it and no heat :) it saved me a ton of money and it looks nicer to me, thanks for watching glad My little knowledge can help others :)
I found your videos and I've been watching them all over the last couple of days, I noticed that you have used inverters from both reliable energy, and swipower , I've been looking at both of these companies as well for a 5,000 watt inverter. I wanted to know which inverter brand you prefer or think is best and why. Also where do you find that 8,000 watt model?
the Reliable is a better I had 3 swi inverters and all 3 broke, I have 4 reliable inverter and they work well, I have had a few people tell be they burnt their reliable inverters but most are from trying to use the ground on the inverter and bind it to the neutral, these inverter have a half live ground and it can not be used when hooked to a house.
Thanks for the reply, the reliable sounds like a good fit then. I picked up 18 ja 320 watt panels the other day and looking forward to get the other devices to get things hooked up. Any chance you have a detailed video showing way it should be wired or a drawing of some sort? Is this true in just a grid tie situation or also a off grid?
you can use both lives just do not use the ground on the inverter, you can ground the panels and the house but leave the inverter ungrounded or it blows up :)
i will make a video soon :)
good job ......... but audio was low for voice , but LOUD on music ..,,.
thanks!
What made you chose that inverter instead of another Magna?
I like to have one of the best and one of the cheapest/bang for buck, keeps people interested, there are so many people buying power jack and im trying to find them a better inverter manufacturer.
Without past 1 minute maybe 2 4kw inverters (not sure if would trust 8kw at 110v the amps be high ), guess not ones I seen in the past have been 2 inverters connected to each other
this one seems like its built enough to do 60+ amps on the AC side, time will tell if this is a good unit or not.
Do you have a thermal cam? (even just one for the mobile phone) as it can be useful to see hot spots (better then poking with thingers)
i do not have one no.
Going Off Grid, they are good for spotting hot spots and point if possible failure later on due to component overload
also good are looking at solar panels that are not operating correctly and have hot spots, as solar panels that have high resistance are more likely to be hotter than the other solar panels so pull overall power output down,
as well as good for checking connection so you can check to see if you have any bad connections or cables that are generating resistance causing to heat up and possibly melt
Be nice if the bms boards had a load indicator on them, I would recommend still getting a thermal cam at some point as its more reliable then hand test and you can just stand back and look at what is warm then move closer to heat source
How many batteries does it take to run a 8000 W inverter
o dang, a lot :D depends on how long.
Are your window shakers 240V?
no 120v
Does it still work?
CAN I GET ONE IN TORONTO 8000w .OPEN BOX 240v.
Nice....
How must is it?
How can you get, let say, 7000w on 2 x 120volts output, thats 2 Time 30A on regular 15 A output plus?
yea haha, you will cook the plugs, your supposed to know you need to use the direct wire from inverter and not the plugs for more then 15 amps
So was there a place on the inverter to hardwire in , or did you have to modify it? Once gaewiredvwere did it run to?
it has a hard wire, but the ground and neutral can not be bind as the neutral is live and if bound to the ground will act like a dead short and blow the inverter.
Is this a reliable company though i bought an inverter from renogy and i to send in my inverter but their customer service is not very good they currently have my inverter and they asked to confirm my shipping address and i did a few days ago and havent heard anything since so im looking at changing to a different inverter/company im looking this one one from Aims and Energizer although its modified sine wave but it comes with two year warranty plus you can buy an additional 4yrs lol sorry for rambling new to off grid
I love the newest reliable inverters, check out my latest video to see it.
Are these inverts pretty good?
I think so I have 4, but I have had a few people tell me their inverter broke, so I think its the best china made inverter.
bigblockcutlass123 no fire hazard promise
Why did you chose 60VDC.
16s works with most EV batteries
Wagan proline is half the weight twice the power
i have run 6500w so far :)
Wow.... 8000w pure ???? very cool... give it to me pls... LOL
On your 3000W inverter appears to have...
...
You have a - 4 pairs - 2x mos-fet-s IRFP4668 - 9.7m ohm - maiby from Infineon. This is a 130A at 25 deg celsius and 92A continous at 100deg celsius, with 520A pulse.
With 4 pairs, and 4 transformers ( you have 4 sets that can handel around 368A for a short time ) - and a very small impulse of 2.000A ... !!!
You will never reach this... Will blow many other component in the way....
368A on 48V = 17.600W - 17KW. as an impulse. You can start any applyance. The limits are the transformers, wires, and many others....
...
IN REALITY = on maximum 3.000W you will have 17A per pair, on 4 pairs = 68 A in a 48V sistem . This inverter will run almoust non stop.
...................................................................................................................................................................................................
Let`s go to your new 8.000W. here you have F59N30 - 56m ohm - 59A at 25deg celsius and 35A continous at 100deg celsius and 230A pulse ( disipate 5 times more heat in running regards to - IRFP4668 )
When you run a 8.000 W model it will be hotter than 3.000 W modell. There are people who observe that.
...
in this 8.000W model you have 9 pairs. 9pairs x 35A = 315 Amps max continous --- ATTENTION !!! smaller maximum current than 3000W modell !!!
Maximum pulse can be 230A x 9 pairs = 2070Amps , the same as 3000W modell....
...
IN REALITY = 8000W ... WILL HAVE TOTAL -181Amps - IN 9 PAIR = 20Amps - PER PAIR OF TRANZISTORS and transformer ... ( equal with your fuses2x10A, probably something bad calculations, or a scam )
...
YOU MUST CHANGE THE TRANZISTOR, PUT THE ORIGINAL THAT ARE IN 3000W MODELL - IRFP4668...
Of course, if there are damage in control board must be repaired.
The fuse 2x10A must be bigger, migt be used 2 x 15A. fuse
debe consumir 8000 litros de agua para sacar 8 voltios
where can I find it in lebanon
Do you have old one I need it?
I don’t believe this inverter can do 8kw for very long. The input cables are not heavy enough with out going into thermal failure. I would definitely beef those up. Only two outlets to split off an 8kw load? All thinks being equal each plug would carry 36 amps each at 110V AC. Those are only 15 amp plugs.
yes you are right it can do 7000w and 8000 surge, also it has to use the hard wire feature for the full 7000w.
You really need to organize your wires/boards properly... Otherwise interesting video. Thanks!
lol yea will have to do that someday soon.
The first models have good compnents, mayby more expensive.
...
The demand increase and now, the new models are poor in quality.
Cheaper tranzistors - MOS-FET-s .... resulting in hotter inverters and smaller power... burn immediately with 2.000W motors that drain 6.000W on start.
interesting have you tested them? the newer one I have has igbt instead of mosfets witch cost more... and they just released a new 8000w inverter I hope to test soon
@@andreigradu2624 interesting ill will look into this
11:49 Shower of sparks haha, must've shorted out the battery.
scared the shit out of me :)
8000 watts? For how long?
2-3 mins
Company cheeped out on the heat sink grease on the mosfets. I see none. Bad! If you load it for long periods of time they will not hold up. This is a money maker for companies.
thanks for the tip, i will have to add!
I wouldn't try to squeeze any more out of that 8000 watt inverter than about 1500 watts! Those wires feeding those outlets are a joke!
Richard Owens thwy are rated for 15 amps and hard wired is 50 amps
You do realize that your name and address are in that barcode.. ?
Meowbay i didnt think you could see it lol
It won’t work with mighty saw or air compressor
The conclusion is that your 3000W inverter has the same imput current capacity as your 8000W inverter.
Here apears a scam... !!!
....
Look at the pair of MOS-FET-s in your 3000W inverter, thouse IRFP4668... Are very good components for tis application.
In your 8000W model shoud be the same tranzistors.... Maiby the price is huy, but quality costs.
....
Attention to those fuses... in 3000W inverter usualy do not blow those 10Afuse. in 8000W inverter those fuse blow evry day... Fuse are under rated... A normal shoud be 12-15A x 2 pcs.
And the correct MOS-FET-s. must be placed.
this isn't a true sine wave. the sine module is not present (separate motherboard)
It's pure sine I checked it with a oscilloscope.
I hate a box shipped in a box inside another box seriously why
You need at least 8 k to go off grid completely preferably 1000 K and about 40 12-volt batteries.,,.... With at least 4 k of solar power anything less than that is just a waste
well not a wast, some people like to just keep their bill down :D
When is thé Wind turbine comin
after I go off grid but before winter I hope
It is not possible to put 8kw down those flimsy tiny thin cables.
At 66v you can
Dam ads turned video off
RELOAD :D
Contrary to manufacturer reliable power. These units really have little or no short circuit protection and will destroy the unit if you wire it incorrectly from the output sockets / connections. Be careful out there. Get a professional to wire up.
99% of inverters are like this, please make sure to wire correct the first time!
You have aluminum cans sitting on TOP of your batteries? No wonder you short things out all of the time.
How much
about 1000