Without a doubt the best car repair video ever....there are thousands of repair videos but none have a smidgen of the humour or entertaiment that you dished up. I actually laughed out loud. You have a fan for life...............
Good God thank you for this video. I haven't even made an attempt to change the bearing but wanted to look at videos as I've never done it before, just to be safe. I can tell you I would've resorted to measures so extreme that I wouldn't have been able to repair them at my house.
What u doing working on a yaris I thought u were a firm mondeo man.btw I've done this job many times on this particular car I always use an air chisel takes em off in no time save ur screws and bolts for the big jobs.
Easy when you know how it's done You're a genius Alan I enjoy watching your videos as a 60 year old who used to do mechanical repairs on my own cars and was a self employed spray painter/panel beater before becoming a private hire driver for 29 years Cars were much simpler to work on them days Thanks for the entertaining videos, all the best & stay safe Buddy
If it were me doing the job, I'd put on put nickel-based anti-seize compound instead of grease. Anti-seize is much longer lasting than grease. Just saying , mate....
First thought, get a blow torch, but this is much cleaner. But at 10:53 , why not use "copper paste"? Thats mandatory to use in Sweden according to Bosse Bildoktorn.. *lol*
The first video, the hub just fell out. I was like "fk yeah easy work". Other videos showed i might have a problem just hit it with a hammer, falls right off. This video was like "oh great, a fkn comedian ". But the only video that actually showed a sleeve on the hub rusted inside the axle. And best way to remove. Thx bud
Yeah liked the way the old Lancia's had loads of info dials, amperes, oil pressure, temperature.....to give you early warnings...with modern technology you would think the engine should switch off immediately with low oil pressure.
I've just recently done both rear bearing on my 12 reg focus on my driveway it was pretty straightforward thankfully. Just a story on things going wrong. In 2019 i did an oil change on the focus during which I notice a leaking driveshaft oil seal on the drivers side, so I decided to replace it I'd done them before so I thought an easy job, anyway I ended up splitting the intermediate CV joint cos the driveshaft splines were rusted in the hub well the CV lobes fell off with the needle rollers so I had to rebuild that, then once I got everything back together I found I had buggerd the threads on the driveshaft up so I had to grind the damaged thread off to get the nut on, so I thought thats it I couldn't believe the hassle id had, went for a drive and realised id also damaged the front wheel bearing up trying to get the driveshaft out 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a 2017 Yaris. Rear off side hub knackered. Came out with a little force. I smeared copperease around the joint you mention before fitting new hub. Should revent the issue. I bet they dont in the factory...
....maybe some freeing spray around the flange that is rusted in might help ? I don't think heat application would be possible due to proximity of rubber components - i thought of it, but not practicable here. Cheers - Chris.
great tip. Gonna try it right now. Have a yaris on my lift as we speak. Same problem. Used heat, a LARGE hammer, a puller, ... nothing so far. edit: your trick with bolts worked like magic. I tip my hat to you, sir.
Stumbled upon this video after watching how to do a Toyota Highlander AWD rear wheel bearing (really for my Lexus RX300). I appreciate the sharing of alternative techniques when the slide hammer does not work as it should. And, yes, the scenario at the end of your video about a Sunday afternoon not ending the way you thought with you wife ... been there and done that! Lol! Much love and appreciation from Prescott, AZ USA!
I tend to apply ceramic grease to anything where heat might be the cause of something seizing in when it comes to removing it later on. Might be worth considering when you do these?
Great to see an 'old school' proper mechanic with some common sense rather than the muppets you have in main dealers who have no clue... Toyota wanted nearly £300! Yes £300! for the hub and £240 to fit it by the way.Total rip off. I bought a Blueprint hub for £61. Exactly the same as the part I removed...
I found it easier to turn the nut than the bolt. Easier on the backer plate too! I wanted to research a better way for the 2nd side because the first one I just put the wheel back on after taking the bolts out and kicked until it moved, problem being it took the entire backing plate with it and I had a hell of a time getting the wheel back off a loose bearing!
Same issue doing a pug 107 last week, on daughter's car, against the clock. To break the corrorion I ended up soaking the section with WD40, then drifting the hub assy around using the lugs.. Then once it had started to move, bolted the wheel back on and stamped on it (lying on my back) side to side to free it off. Down side is having vto remove one brake shoe to get access to hammer the lugs.
Tried everyway to get a bearing out of an Aygo. Only had one bolt but tightened it up then moved it around 180 Degrees. After a couple of attempts, the bearing popped out. Excellent video. Does what it says on the Tin. Thank you
Nice solution! You know your car is getting on a bit when you need to sweep it up off the ramps. The upper ball joint pinch bolt in a Passat B5 was always a nightmare job until I worked out how to do them. Buy some new bolts and put them on the passenger seat, then take the car to your local garage. Then go back and pick it up when they have done the job and pay them. It's worked twice for me now.
Yeah... And all the Audi's too. Too much force, and you'll break the upright... Who would have thought that alloy suspension parts and steel bolts would rust together? 😉 If you own a shop, there is a kit for this, that makes your life a lot easier.
What a great tip Alan.👍 I just found out today that I have two to do on my wife's Yaris T Sport, it's done a million miles but she just won't let the old girl go.🤣 Thank you for showing us all. John.
Thank god for this video! I've struggled wit ha hub on a WiLL Vi - basically a mk1 Yaris underneath. I've hit it with a hammer - a lot; pushed and hit form the back; taken the rear brake assembly off - and broken bits as I did - but the hub remained, and the bearings inside it are now properly knackered! It hardly turns at all. All i was trying to do was change the ABS sensor! I will be doing this at the weekend - as well as trying to fix the mess I made! I'll upload soon with my efforts - and I'll give you a shout out!
Another top tip if you have a air hammer gun. Unscrew the bolts half way out and then hammer the head of the bolt on both sides evenly. This drives the hub assembly out. Done this on VW/ Audi cars and works a treat.
I’m a Toyota mechanic. All you need to do is remove the brake shoes and strike with a hammer from side to side. Walk it out. It’s very easy and much faster.
Everything magically comes off easily and straight forward on UA-cam because most videos are not in the UK with the crap wet salty environment. This is a good idea, I've always had to remove the shoe assembly and hammer the crap out of it for 10 mins and get tennis elbow for days after..
When I see people "praying" to the "All mighty WD40" from an altar of solid rust! I know they're rookies who need some (a lot) of workshop time! Meaning hands on in some rust belt area! LOL 😂 Probably the most obvious. The really difficult part is to produce the initial displacement of what by then is a solid rust "unit". So when the first movement happen, it's done! From there on, it's just smooth sailing! The video confirm it. In spite WD40 can be used in that condition. By then it's really not needed. Because let's be honest the hard part is gone, over, finished! In a perfect world WD40 would deeply penetrate into the affected area. Unfortunately real world experience will tell you, that anything and everything in the vicinity will be flooded with WD40. The area you really want or need, unfortunately, will be bone dry! Yep, that's life!
Worked great. I used 1/2 inch x 7 inch carriage bolts on my 2008 Yaris. My experience mirrored this video almost exactly, down to the pops when the hub broke free. Had a little scare when the last bolt on the passenger side refused to break free. I let loose the impact gun and after some tense moments it came spinning out. Thought for sure it was going snap.
Changing the wheel bearing hub on friend's Captiva we took the whole upright off the car and her hubby was having a go at it with a sledge hammer and it wouldn't budge.. luckily one of my mates had the access to a press in the workshop so after pumping up 6 tonnes of pressure it finally moved.. Good old rust can be as strong as a good weld :)
Ended up doing it myself easy cheers than I did my mates on 56 discovery front bearing even tho I had to call my mate out with impact gun for centre but 😁
Awesome video with great tips about the 2x M10 bolts. This guy is hilarious. Had me laughing. To anyone who has done this, how easy do the lug nut studs come out if you whack them with a hammer? I'm about to do this job over the weekend but I'm concerned about the studs not coming out and I'll end up making my car undrivable 😅
Well done Alan for showing so many DIY ers how frustrating mecky fitting is. Ever decreasing circles is how l explain it. Your tenacity shines through, and your character just gets stronger with every new trial. Keep up the good work.
Holy crap, I wouldnt buy a car from that regiom of GB, that rust is something else, its like it was in a salt mine! Kudos to you for dealing with this crap on a daily basis, I guess at least the volvos wouldnt rust.
Our Toyota is apparently exceptionally problematic. Almost 7 hours in with a handfull of broken bolts and nuts, a lot of hammering and a lot of WD40 the hub has barely moved at all. About 3mm on one side and less than 1mm on the other. But it will probably come out with enough patience, brute force and colorfull vocabulary. I will get more bolts and nuts when the hardware store opens up again tomorrow, a copy of the helpfull book "1001 peculiar profanities from around the world" and continue the fight then. I hope that some unstressed new bolts and another night of marinating in WD40 will help. After that I can relax with the old Beetle. Where 4 bolts and some gentle wiggling makes the whole engine come out.
On my Toyota Echo, I stripped out a whole bunch of inferior bolts to get this done first... Then I made a special trip to the automotive store and bought "Dorman 960-430" bolts, and "Dorman 962-014D" nuts (GRADE 8!!!!!!!!, 1/2"-13, 3" long hex bolts and nuts) (if you include the price of the stripped bolt failed attempts, I ended up spending more on the bolts and nuts to get this stupid rusted bearing out as I did on the cost of the new bearing on ebay... atleast the grade 8 set will live in my toolbox now...) But, thank you! Without this technique I'd still be out there hammering for nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Also, those four 12mm bolts that hold the hub in on this style (bolts thread into hub) have a torque spec of 52NM or 38ft lbs... If your the opposite style where your backplate has the threads, the torque spec is higher at 90Nm or 67Ft/lbs.
Don't EVER say "no problem"......if....you don't know the snow / salt / rust region your car was operating under. That bearing would just NOT MOVE until nuclear-level force and tactics were used. Tried all "tricks" including use of multiple/simultaneous threaded rods, hammering, etc .... no go.
wish i watched this before I changed my Peugeot 107 rear wheel bearings, they were exactly the same type, and i used that same bearing hammer and it was horrible, smashing away for ever getting no where fast. i thought it was going to be a piece of piss, was i wrong!! Thanks to this vid i know now what to do next time, Thank you..👍👍
I had a problem just taking my front left wheel off my Yaris to rotate the tires, and ended up using a hydraulic jack and a strap, putting the head end of the jack to the wheel and the base with the strap around it and tied to the wheel bolts. It worked!
Loosen the lug nuts a little and back slowly out of your driveway and turn as you drop to the street. As soon as you hear it pop free, stop and tighten them back up.
Genuine Toyota bearing doesn't come with new bolts. Everything at Toyota is always separate. Ie water pump then you order the gasket separate.. Makes no sense at all
It does make some sense. For the bean counters in the company!! When you're faced with the real Toyota parts prices, than one can understand that's a gold mine!! I've had the unfortunate experience of buying equivalent parts for Mercedes!!! and Toyota, just a couple of weeks apart. Both OEM, from the respective official dealer. Same conditions, same part (brake switch) for cars that are even similar, Toyota Yaris D4d and Mercedes A classe (W168) CDI. Well the moment they trow me a price that was basically the DOUBLE of Mercedes!! I confess that I asked the guy to double check the price! That's how surprised I was and found it hard to believe! Should be added that even that of Mercedes was almost 2.5x the price of the equivalent Peugeot/Citroen price!! Yep! That's life.
@@crpth1 Toyota are the only company who will sell you a part but without the corresponding gasket to fit the part. Every other oe company includes this ie a water pump. Not toyota. Most expensive dealer parts are SSANG YONG by far
Hello, next time you might wanna apply some WD-40 through the back, and let it sit for half an hour or so. Might save you the hassle. And maybe an impact driver. Regards
The bearing is being trashed, but everything else is not! By the time you're done with the torch your brake oil and most important all brake seals would be trash! So a torch is not a good idea. On the other hand I've used with great success an air hammer/chisel. After being frustrated with the results from a sliding hammer and a sledge hammer 🛠 !! My Yaris is slightly different from this one. In the sense that's disk brake on all 4 corners (D4D). But the pain is exactly the same! Air tool for this job is a gift from heaven! ;-)
Those hub bolts are 12mm,thats what is on my 03 echo and they are in good shape,all four,trying to get my drivers rear off right now,its stuck pretty good!
That's a awesome idea thanks for the tip I'm going to use that I have a shop south of Chicago Illinois in the rust belt and I have struggled with wheel bearing assembly like that great job my friend have a great day and be safe
Had a 2001 Yaris for nearly 14yrs & never had mine done BUT my 2015 Yaris had 2 (Both rear) last year in 2022,the last owner had it done 3 years prior in 2019...they're a real issue i heard.
This video helped me today, but jesus.. It was stuck like crazy, had so much pressure on the bolts that one went through the metal backplate. Eventually got it out by heating the bearing, as well as lots of hammering. 🥴
Did this method, the bolts just got bent twice! Wasted a whole day on my bearing replacement and left the old one in... Smashed the shit out of it it just was stuck in here very firmly
This is one of the best repair videos I have ever seen. The real world scenario at the end hits home way too hard for me. Thanks
Have a look at south main auto, SMA channel Eric has is in upstate ny and everything is rusted in there. Thanks for the clip very enjoyable watch.
ya his weapon of choice for these bad boys is BIG NASTY
I live in Buffalo ny and have to live with what Eric deals with everyday its a different kinda wrenching
Some coins (or washers) under the bolts, and there's no damage on the anchor plate.
@Paul van Lies·hout Have you tried the coins method as I was wondering if they would work to stop the back plate getting damaged.
@@hardworker8030 Yes. That's my method. Never fails.
There's an old Dutch joke: "You're doing it all wrong, mate!". "How's that?". "Let someone else do it...". 😁
lol
Without a doubt the best car repair video ever....there are thousands of repair videos but none have a smidgen of the humour or entertaiment that you dished up. I actually laughed out loud. You have a fan for life...............
thanks veroxious, appreciate it😁
❤Nice sir
Brilliant tip with the bolts 👍👍
I went to the hardware store and bought two m12 long bolts and some nuts and Just as Alan done it I have done it.
Good God thank you for this video. I haven't even made an attempt to change the bearing but wanted to look at videos as I've never done it before, just to be safe. I can tell you I would've resorted to measures so extreme that I wouldn't have been able to repair them at my house.
What u doing working on a yaris I thought u were a firm mondeo man.btw I've done this job many times on this particular car I always use an air chisel takes em off in no time save ur screws and bolts for the big jobs.
Easy when you know how it's done
You're a genius Alan
I enjoy watching your videos as a 60 year old who used to do mechanical repairs on my own cars and was a self employed spray painter/panel beater before becoming a private hire driver for 29 years
Cars were much simpler to work on them days
Thanks for the entertaining videos, all the best & stay safe Buddy
Bloody Hell Alan! Looks like fun for me. My local shop just threw a quote for $1000. at me. No thank you to them but thanks to you.
If it were me doing the job, I'd put on put nickel-based anti-seize compound instead of grease. Anti-seize is much longer lasting than grease. Just saying , mate....
its just to prevent rust reforming its not to prevent anything actually seizing as such
Perfect video, explained perfectly and didn’t hide any of the bs that goes with the removal
Thnx for your tip with nuts and bolts. Changes both rear bearings today on my wifes Yaris.
Arrr legend I've always had problems with them thanks for the tip
Nearly as bad as trying to change Vauxhall insignia rear wheel bearing.its seized bloody solid.
:-(
First thought, get a blow torch, but this is much cleaner. But at 10:53 , why not use "copper paste"? Thats mandatory to use in Sweden according to Bosse Bildoktorn.. *lol*
The first video, the hub just fell out. I was like "fk yeah easy work". Other videos showed i might have a problem just hit it with a hammer, falls right off.
This video was like "oh great, a fkn comedian ". But the only video that actually showed a sleeve on the hub rusted inside the axle. And best way to remove. Thx bud
🤣the reason I made this video was to counter the other bullshit videos as I found these hub units can be a nightmare to remove
Yeah liked the way the old Lancia's had loads of info dials, amperes, oil pressure, temperature.....to give you early warnings...with modern technology you would think the engine should switch off immediately with low oil pressure.
I've just recently done both rear bearing on my 12 reg focus on my driveway it was pretty straightforward thankfully.
Just a story on things going wrong. In 2019 i did an oil change on the focus during which I notice a leaking driveshaft oil seal on the drivers side, so I decided to replace it I'd done them before so I thought an easy job, anyway I ended up splitting the intermediate CV joint cos the driveshaft splines were rusted in the hub well the CV lobes fell off with the needle rollers so I had to rebuild that, then once I got everything back together I found I had buggerd the threads on the driveshaft up so I had to grind the damaged thread off to get the nut on, so I thought thats it I couldn't believe the hassle id had, went for a drive and realised id also damaged the front wheel bearing up trying to get the driveshaft out 🤣🤣🤣🤣
What a nightmare... but often the way when you start out on something it is much more complicated than you anticipate.
I have a 2017 Yaris. Rear off side hub knackered. Came out with a little force. I smeared copperease around the joint you mention before fitting new hub. Should revent the issue. I bet they dont in the factory...
Best if customers are not about in the workshop . if they could see what is done to their vehicles they would weep.
take the breakshoes off and take the sledgehammer and hit it sideways, the take the airhammer between the bearing
and the backplatte and prye it out
Thanks great video. Plenty of rust on that car. Would something like WD40 help free things up?
top bloke !
Its a yaris potatoe great content ,cant wait to give my misses a wallop (car i mean)!!!!!!😀😀😀😀🔩🔩🔩🔩🔩🔩🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧STAY SAFE.....
....maybe some freeing spray around the flange that is rusted in might help ? I don't think heat application would be possible due to proximity of rubber components - i thought of it, but not practicable here. Cheers - Chris.
great tip. Gonna try it right now. Have a yaris on my lift as we speak. Same problem. Used heat, a LARGE hammer, a puller, ... nothing so far.
edit: your trick with bolts worked like magic. I tip my hat to you, sir.
Love your upbeat approach. I'd have been cursing.
Stumbled upon this video after watching how to do a Toyota Highlander AWD rear wheel bearing (really for my Lexus RX300). I appreciate the sharing of alternative techniques when the slide hammer does not work as it should. And, yes, the scenario at the end of your video about a Sunday afternoon not ending the way you thought with you wife ... been there and done that! Lol! Much love and appreciation from Prescott, AZ USA!
thanks for your comment lol, have a smiley day😊
I used like your method and two m12 bolts and nuts to press it out.
Excellent again Alan. How about a Mondeo Mk 4, Rear Wheel Bearing change?
I tend to apply ceramic grease to anything where heat might be the cause of something seizing in when it comes to removing it later on. Might be worth considering when you do these?
...you already do. Hadn’t got that far haha.
Great to see an 'old school' proper mechanic with some common sense rather than the muppets you have in main dealers who have no clue... Toyota wanted nearly £300! Yes £300! for the hub and £240 to fit it by the way.Total rip off. I bought a Blueprint hub for £61. Exactly the same as the part I removed...
🤣excellent. Have a good one
I found it easier to turn the nut than the bolt. Easier on the backer plate too!
I wanted to research a better way for the 2nd side because the first one I just put the wheel back on after taking the bolts out and kicked until it moved, problem being it took the entire backing plate with it and I had a hell of a time getting the wheel back off a loose bearing!
i like your style friend. thx for the help
thanks
Same issue doing a pug 107 last week, on daughter's car, against the clock.
To break the corrorion I ended up soaking the section with WD40, then drifting the hub assy around using the lugs.. Then once it had started to move, bolted the wheel back on and stamped on it (lying on my back) side to side to free it off.
Down side is having vto remove one brake shoe to get access to hammer the lugs.
nightmare😁
Tried everyway to get a bearing out of an Aygo. Only had one bolt but tightened it up then moved it around 180 Degrees. After a couple of attempts, the bearing popped out. Excellent video. Does what it says on the Tin. Thank you
your welcome
Nice solution! You know your car is getting on a bit when you need to sweep it up off the ramps. The upper ball joint pinch bolt in a Passat B5 was always a nightmare job until I worked out how to do them. Buy some new bolts and put them on the passenger seat, then take the car to your local garage. Then go back and pick it up when they have done the job and pay them. It's worked twice for me now.
Yeah...
And all the Audi's too.
Too much force, and you'll break the upright...
Who would have thought that alloy suspension parts and steel bolts would rust together? 😉
If you own a shop, there is a kit for this, that makes your life a lot easier.
I have struggled for 2 hours now eith my brothers yaris. Thank god for this video
Hi Alan, just thought i would tell you that i've done 4 recently and only 1 gave me jip.
What a great tip Alan.👍
I just found out today that I have two to do on my wife's Yaris T Sport, it's done a million miles but she just won't let the old girl go.🤣
Thank you for showing us all.
John.
Oxygen And Acetylene... Heat works... did my Camary rear ... and had as much fun as you did Thanks for the laughs ..lol
cheers c jay
You saved my ass with the bolt trick. Thank you much!!
your welcome, glad it worked😆
Thank god for this video! I've struggled wit ha hub on a WiLL Vi - basically a mk1 Yaris underneath. I've hit it with a hammer - a lot; pushed and hit form the back; taken the rear brake assembly off - and broken bits as I did - but the hub remained, and the bearings inside it are now properly knackered! It hardly turns at all. All i was trying to do was change the ABS sensor!
I will be doing this at the weekend - as well as trying to fix the mess I made! I'll upload soon with my efforts - and I'll give you a shout out!
How did it go?
@@ShiftedReality90 it worked!
Rear wheel hub/bearing | Toyota WiLL Vi | Not A Proper Classic
ua-cam.com/video/LO0mqykalYc/v-deo.html
Another top tip if you have a air hammer gun. Unscrew the bolts half way out and then hammer the head of the bolt on both sides evenly. This drives the hub assembly out. Done this on VW/ Audi cars and works a treat.
This worked like a charm. Took me two tries (bolt bent on the first) but it popped right out on try two. Thanks for the tip!
Excellent and thanx for the tip, much appreciated mr Henry ☺️
I’m a Toyota mechanic. All you need to do is remove the brake shoes and strike with a hammer from side to side. Walk it out. It’s very easy and much faster.
I've done it, a lot easier and saves you grinding the damaged bolts and nuts off.
Here's the link. ua-cam.com/users/shortsMTdUE8ofY2o?feature=share
Hope your Snap-on Rep isn't watching this video, You abusing their Chineseium sockets lol
Everything magically comes off easily and straight forward on UA-cam because most videos are not in the UK with the crap wet salty environment. This is a good idea, I've always had to remove the shoe assembly and hammer the crap out of it for 10 mins and get tennis elbow for days after..
Your bloody brilliant Alan and a bloody good mechanic
Once you got it moving you should of sprayed some WD40 on it
Fantastic video thanks for sharing
WD40 is "Water Displacing" liquid....not a rusted bolt loosener.....
When I see people "praying" to the "All mighty WD40" from an altar of solid rust! I know they're rookies who need some (a lot) of workshop time! Meaning hands on in some rust belt area! LOL 😂
Probably the most obvious. The really difficult part is to produce the initial displacement of what by then is a solid rust "unit". So when the first movement happen, it's done! From there on, it's just smooth sailing! The video confirm it.
In spite WD40 can be used in that condition. By then it's really not needed. Because let's be honest the hard part is gone, over, finished!
In a perfect world WD40 would deeply penetrate into the affected area. Unfortunately real world experience will tell you, that anything and everything in the vicinity will be flooded with WD40. The area you really want or need, unfortunately, will be bone dry!
Yep, that's life!
Genius!
my bolts went in from the outside
Worked great. I used 1/2 inch x 7 inch carriage bolts on my 2008 Yaris. My experience mirrored this video almost exactly, down to the pops when the hub broke free.
Had a little scare when the last bolt on the passenger side refused to break free. I let loose the impact gun and after some tense moments it came spinning out. Thought for sure it was going snap.
lol, glad it worked for you
Thank You for sharing this video 👍🤙👌, it will help 😉
Glad it was helpful!
You're the best..... Thankyou for this genial idea
What is the bolt size please?
Your as crazy as a box of frogs, but very knowledgeable and entertaining, was this in for a MOT ?
Changing the wheel bearing hub on friend's Captiva we took the whole upright off the car and her hubby was having a go at it with a sledge hammer and it wouldn't budge.. luckily one of my mates had the access to a press in the workshop so after pumping up 6 tonnes of pressure it finally moved.. Good old rust can be as strong as a good weld :)
What's your opinion on ADL Blueprint parts? I've got a wheel bearing from them that I plan on fitting but don't want to fit if it's junk?
ADL Blueprint are good parts on the whole, one of our preferred brands .
With wheel bearings just aim get kits that reboxed mainland japan bearings .
@@mrb1864 abs sensor is failure before bearing
@@nihonkokusai
with off brand bearings we seen bearings go bad in under 12 months .
Yaris ....😂😮😅 thank you I need to see what I need to know about the car.head lights are pain.
Thank you so much for this video Alan much appreciated I'll be letting the garage do it quote £100 not bad quote I think cheaper than a divorce.
lol, cheers
Ended up doing it myself easy cheers than I did my mates on 56 discovery front bearing even tho I had to call my mate out with impact gun for centre but 😁
Merci beaucoup!!! Sans vous je n'aurai jamais réussi à sortir le roulement et ma voiture serait partie à la casse.
Yep, been doing that for years.
smart man wow canada
Awesome video with great tips about the 2x M10 bolts. This guy is hilarious. Had me laughing. To anyone who has done this, how easy do the lug nut studs come out if you whack them with a hammer? I'm about to do this job over the weekend but I'm concerned about the studs not coming out and I'll end up making my car undrivable 😅
Brilliant tip, just used this video to get my bearing out of my yaris SUPERB saved me hours Thanks
Quality 👌
Well done Alan for showing so many DIY ers how frustrating mecky fitting is. Ever decreasing circles is how l explain it. Your tenacity shines through, and your character just gets stronger with every new trial. Keep up the good work.
thanks tim, appreciate it😊
Nice idea.
good tip
Holy crap, I wouldnt buy a car from that regiom of GB, that rust is something else, its like it was in a salt mine! Kudos to you for dealing with this crap on a daily basis, I guess at least the volvos wouldnt rust.
Try removing the rusted bolts on the handbrake motors on a volvo S60 - they do rust!
Dang, wish I'd found this before it got dark today. Oh well, I'll give it a go in the morning.
You got bloody good camera. Thanks for your videos!!!
Our Toyota is apparently exceptionally problematic. Almost 7 hours in with a handfull of broken bolts and nuts, a lot of hammering and a lot of WD40 the hub has barely moved at all. About 3mm on one side and less than 1mm on the other. But it will probably come out with enough patience, brute force and colorfull vocabulary. I will get more bolts and nuts when the hardware store opens up again tomorrow, a copy of the helpfull book "1001 peculiar profanities from around the world" and continue the fight then. I hope that some unstressed new bolts and another night of marinating in WD40 will help. After that I can relax with the old Beetle. Where 4 bolts and some gentle wiggling makes the whole engine come out.
I wanted a good laugh brilliant
On my Toyota Echo, I stripped out a whole bunch of inferior bolts to get this done first... Then I made a special trip to the automotive store and bought "Dorman 960-430" bolts, and "Dorman 962-014D" nuts (GRADE 8!!!!!!!!, 1/2"-13, 3" long hex bolts and nuts) (if you include the price of the stripped bolt failed attempts, I ended up spending more on the bolts and nuts to get this stupid rusted bearing out as I did on the cost of the new bearing on ebay... atleast the grade 8 set will live in my toolbox now...)
But, thank you! Without this technique I'd still be out there hammering for nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also, those four 12mm bolts that hold the hub in on this style (bolts thread into hub) have a torque spec of 52NM or 38ft lbs... If your the opposite style where your backplate has the threads, the torque spec is higher at 90Nm or 67Ft/lbs.
Great idea with the bolts..going to utilize it next time..will help me save my already weak shoulders from using a BFH..
Holy Fuck is this Shit rusty. All the Components on the rear axle looks horrible!!!
Don't EVER say "no problem"......if....you don't know the snow / salt / rust region your car was operating under. That bearing would just NOT MOVE until nuclear-level force and tactics were used. Tried all "tricks" including use of multiple/simultaneous threaded rods, hammering, etc .... no go.
wish i watched this before I changed my Peugeot 107 rear wheel bearings, they were exactly the same type, and i used that same bearing hammer and it was horrible, smashing away for ever getting no where fast. i thought it was going to be a piece of piss, was i wrong!! Thanks to this vid i know now what to do next time, Thank you..👍👍
I absolutely loved your presentation. Thank you for all the excellent tips...mate!!
thanks twilight
I had a problem just taking my front left wheel off my Yaris to rotate the tires, and ended up using a hydraulic jack and a strap, putting the head end of the jack to the wheel and the base with the strap around it and tied to the wheel bolts. It worked!
Loosen the lug nuts a little and back slowly out of your driveway and turn as you drop to the street. As soon as you hear it pop free, stop and tighten them back up.
Genuine Toyota bearing doesn't come with new bolts. Everything at Toyota is always separate. Ie water pump then you order the gasket separate.. Makes no sense at all
It does make some sense. For the bean counters in the company!!
When you're faced with the real Toyota parts prices, than one can understand that's a gold mine!!
I've had the unfortunate experience of buying equivalent parts for Mercedes!!! and Toyota, just a couple of weeks apart. Both OEM, from the respective official dealer. Same conditions, same part (brake switch) for cars that are even similar, Toyota Yaris D4d and Mercedes A classe (W168) CDI.
Well the moment they trow me a price that was basically the DOUBLE of Mercedes!! I confess that I asked the guy to double check the price! That's how surprised I was and found it hard to believe! Should be added that even that of Mercedes was almost 2.5x the price of the equivalent Peugeot/Citroen price!! Yep! That's life.
@@crpth1 Toyota are the only company who will sell you a part but without the corresponding gasket to fit the part. Every other oe company includes this ie a water pump. Not toyota. Most expensive dealer parts are SSANG YONG by far
Hello, next time you might wanna apply some WD-40 through the back, and let it sit for half an hour or so.
Might save you the hassle. And maybe an impact driver. Regards
Would heating up the back plate help not help release the bearing? As its being trashed, it wouldn't do any harm.
Anyway fun to watch you sweat 😎
The bearing is being trashed, but everything else is not! By the time you're done with the torch your brake oil and most important all brake seals would be trash! So a torch is not a good idea.
On the other hand I've used with great success an air hammer/chisel. After being frustrated with the results from a sliding hammer and a sledge hammer 🛠 !!
My Yaris is slightly different from this one. In the sense that's disk brake on all 4 corners (D4D). But the pain is exactly the same! Air tool for this job is a gift from heaven! ;-)
Those hub bolts are 12mm,thats what is on my 03 echo and they are in good shape,all four,trying to get my drivers rear off right now,its stuck pretty good!
been there done that as stated not easy i have learnt something new those bolts to jack it free genious alan well done
That's a awesome idea thanks for the tip I'm going to use that I have a shop south of Chicago Illinois in the rust belt and I have struggled with wheel bearing assembly like that great job my friend have a great day and be safe
Air Hammer straight through the back works for me
Had a 2001 Yaris for nearly 14yrs & never had mine done BUT my 2015 Yaris had 2 (Both rear) last year in 2022,the last owner had it done 3 years prior in 2019...they're a real issue i heard.
Or you you soak it all with rust remover?
Particially and two m12 threads as seen here.
great video! Ive been working on cars for 50 odd years and theres always something to learn!
This video helped me today, but jesus.. It was stuck like crazy, had so much pressure on the bolts that one went through the metal backplate. Eventually got it out by heating the bearing, as well as lots of hammering. 🥴
Excellent work there Alan.
cheers
Well I haven’t had the pleasure to do one of those yet but I will definitely remember this technique and use it!!
Cheers for the video mate 👍👍👍👍👍
I envy your excitement, i hope i can feel the same this weekend
Clever tip with the nut and bolt pressing it out , hope you are doing as well as you can be
Did this method, the bolts just got bent twice! Wasted a whole day on my bearing replacement and left the old one in... Smashed the shit out of it it just was stuck in here very firmly
They want almost $560.00 USD per tire replace at one place that is way to much considering the cost of the part!