1. Put a heat-exchanger in the tube after the compressor and before the burn barrel to keep the oil cool and recoup heat 2. Make Sure the oil-pump provides at least 2 bar/200 kPascal/30 PSI to the turbo-charger 3. Avoid supersonic peripheral speed of the compressor-/turbine blades 😁
with the way that turbo is going way beyond spec, I would go for an oil pump capable of way more pressure than 2 bar. Probably more like 4+ bar, since that's around where engine oil pressure sits at high rpm. I think a full-sized engine oil pump operating at its typical operating speeds would supply enough pressure for the turbo to not push the oil out with boost.
@@quinnobi42 I was thinking about an RV fresh water pump. 60 psi, 5gpm. For the oil cooler you could use a few feet of metal tubing either in a vessel of water or extended outside of the boat. Or use a total loss system where (used) engine oil is fed through the turbo from a high pressure tank and then into the combustion chamber.
@@deltab9768 A total loss system like you described would be awesome and provide lots of fuel for the burn barrel. The problem with using a RV fresh water pump is that it is designed for very high volume flow but low pressure. I was thinking maybe a couple automotive fuel pumps for the turbo oil feed or something because they can supply high pressure
@@deltab9768 Then you will have upgraded from wood power to waste oil power. I have a design I am working on which works on [literally] anything combustible, so that you can use either of those, or anything else you can shove in the burn box. But mine will not burn the oil it is using for the bearings, mine will be intended, like an actual vehicle engine, to cool, circulate and filter the lubrication oil. Also that oil will probably be a very expensive silicone based oil to handle heat and reduce corrosiveness since I want something I can actually drive with, not just do silly experiments with.
Boost out the oil feed is a new problem 😂 New turbo and maybe limit it at 30-40 psi to give the next turbo a few more seconds. Wonder what this one actually got up to? Needs a new higher reading boost gauge
the speed that boost needle pegged itself and the turbo was still increasing in speed as well its got to be close to 100 psi or more before it destroys itself . I think even if the feed for the oil didn't pop out it probably wouldn't of lasted much longer then it did. It was fun watching it if short looking forward to the next one.
*@Bobby McBoost* After making a sturdier oil container, can you make something, so the pressure from the engine is pushed into the oil vessel from the top, and act to push out the oil from the bottom? So the engine itself works to pump it's own oil? (You probably know how to solve this better than what I do?) Or maybe add like a shaft on the intake that drives an impeller pump or something? (so the faster the engine spins, the more oil is pumped through the engine automatically)
Your first video got me hooked and with each video i get more and more excited to see what yall come up with, hell yah keep up these back yard anitics!
I've watched every insane turbo jet upload you have today. Dude I wish I was your neighbor I'd love to help with these shenanigans lmao. Also you have a great attitude 👍 keep it up awesome project and videos
That was an epic 5 seconds! Need a secondary gage with higher range, curious to know what it topped out at. Can’t wait for next version! Might need a large surface area of mesh so it doesn’t become clogged so fast.
You guys should fab up a steel vortex dust collector system on the output port, it would prevent the solid material that's killing the turbo from making it into the turbines. There's another channel with one on their turbo keg and seems to greatly increase the turbo longevity, and it also seems to make it burn hotter by swirling all the solid materials inside until they completely burn. Might be worth looking into if you guys want to get it to run longer.
*@Bobby McBoost* 10:56 You can probably also rotate the jet-engine-assembly, so the jet steam blows off the Back Port side (left side, seen towards front), that would naturally create a push on the boat to start spinning. But I think fine tuning that angle would be impossible, especially when you can not test run it on MAX!!! power.
Try to use copper oil lines, or just some metal lines. Use window wipers motor and put it to the input shaft of some servo pump so that you can have some oli pressure. You want around 40PSI of oil pressure for a boost of 30 psi because your boost pressure is "washing" the oil.
Imagine a once-through system where used engine oil comes out of an air tank at 12 bar, goes through a filter, the turbo and then into some kind of nozzle in the combustion chamber! Might be less damaging to the turbo than running on wood. Not sure how I’d go about igniting such a jet.
Do one with 3 falcon xr6 turbos all feeding off the same barrel. I say xr6 turbos coz there cheap and big. And im curious if you directed the exhaust down into the water, maybe it will pick up more speed? Also, i wonder if you were too pump water into the combustion chamber just before it enters the turbo, maybe it will turn into steam and create more pressure aswell as cooling the turbine abit
When you put a grate on the turbo inlet, make it in the shape of a cone or basket pointing down into the burn barrel, so the direction of the airflow doesn't just cause the grate to fill up with material and become obstructed. Also be sure to use a substantial wire size for the grate or basket so it doesn't melt or send parts up into the turbo.
@@95GTSpeedDemon By the way, rebar melts relatively cool, and it burns out, plus it weighs tons and won't stop anything unless you put just way too much of it in there. And then when it does, its going to completely block the exhaust so it won't even work BEFORE little particles even get a chance to blow around.
And the upgrades are still being planned..😂 I can't wait ... This video had so much promise and destruction - turbo, fishing rod , Bobby's leg hair....☺️ Great work lads 👍
i got an idea to help deal with ash. i recon if you put the inlet pipe from the turbo angled where it attaches to the pressure vessel so it will start a vortex inside the pressure vessel that it should be good to help stopping ash from killing the turbo that fast. i could be wrong just a crazy thought.
You could make the nozzle smaller to see if it has more thrust and doesn't rev up as much. I don't know if it will work, maybe the compressor will stall.
I think its more the boiling oil from the heat. Also there isn't new oil added so the remaining boils even faster, in the end the seals migt have been destroyed but i don't think it was from the beginning
I have ran this many times and with different turbo's, and the oil never gets to hot.. it has near 20 litres to cycle through and has been way hotter.👍👍
I can’t tell from the footage if the boost is blowing back past the pump or just out the drain. But If I had to take a bet on the boost level I recon it would be around 90 psi. (The gages stoped working at 30?) The next point of failure will be the seam on the tank and that won’t be pretty stand well back!!!!
@@BobbyMcBoost I ment the oil thats directly in the turbo, not the whole bucket. Also the steam thats coming from the bucket looks thik white like oil vapor not so much like wood exhaust and it doesn't come out nearly as fast as the exhaust of the turbo. But then the air could also slowly leak through the seals and make it look that way. If there isn't to much leaking it might be best to just have the oil reservoir vented.
How about a second straight pipe exhaust facing the rear. It would give the excessive exhaust pressure somewhere to go whilst adding to thrust. It would give the turbo an easier time (reduced heat/ rpm) without restricting it's intake. It could increase total thrust as well as helping it last more than a couple of seconds.
a few weeks ago I saw your turbo barrel and said come to the us, in the south theyd make you mayor for that death dealer. This boat with one? Theyd make you govenor of the state for this terrifying setup🤣
Almost need that bucket of oil sitting in a cooler of ice water and use some of those iron pipe fittings to weigh the feed lines into the bucket. There again all that boost might make the oil null! XD Been loving these!
The Survant James channel built a fancy cyclone and put it before the turbo. If you have some suitable scrap metal around maybe that is a way forward? Sitting on the and of my chair waiting for the next one. Thanks for the entertainment.
I thought about copying this idea of using a boat for testing. But I want to try getting the cooling exhaust tip of a diesel pickup and after the fresh air intake of the tip adding a fuel injector and spraying kerosine into it for an extra big flame
You think if you had like a partial cover welded onto that waste gate it can max out what its physically capable of without falling apart? I wonder if maybe this is just its inevitable fate at full send. Just not capable of running that hard for long
6:32 i think it hit AT LEAST 40 PSI..... just on the sound alone might even be 50PSI . i know i was SHOCKED when our shops 2021 dodge hit 32 PSI of boost..... that sucker MOVES OUT..... and the way the trans shifts.... it seems like its slipping a bit . 30+ PSI is just a whole different beast!
That boost was mad probably blew thru the seals and over pressured oil feed i don't think you could have done anything to prevent prevent that if you want to let it eat
Classic case of overtemp/overspeed caused by too high a turbine inlet temperature, you need to follow standard gas turbine combustion principles , a Primary combustion zone , with Secondary and Tertiary cooling zones to produce the required temperature going into the turbine to provide just the right amount of thermal energy to power the compressor . You need to fit a "wastegate" on your compressor discharge tube , set the wastegate opening pressure to 30 psi of boost , the discharge from the wastegate needs to be plumbed to the Tertiary zone of your "combustor" , preferably close to the ducting into the turb scroll inlet . With this setup your turbo will spool up to 30 psi boost using "excessive" temperatures but only for a few seconds which is acceptable , before "cold" compressor discharge from the wastegate exhaust is added bringing the turb inlet temp down to the required temperature to maintain 30 psi boost with the backpressure created by the jetnozzle . The jetnozzle sizing can be reduced progressively until you have a temperature of ~650 deg C in the jetpipe at your 30 psi boost , this will provide the maximum thrust possible without damaging your turbo , a large diesel turbo should be able to produce ~8-10 pounds of thrust per square inch of comp wheel inducer area , the Garrett TV84 turbo I used in my turbine bike had a 3.5"-88mm comp inducer and produced up to 110 lbs -50 kgs of thrust , ~11 lbs/sq inch of inducer, using a 76 mm dia jet nozzle but at higher than ideal temperatures . You guys have the abilities to produce the best and most powerful engine possible but there are certain parameters which must be adhered to for success .
i commented on hunter goodrich's latest burn barrel video and i think you could pull this off easier than him (cause of the dam). these are the recommendations i made , i think you could adapt this since you need to fab a new turbo anyway: use layers of fine mesh as baffles to prevent partially burned sparks from combusting inside the turbos (across whole barrel) and #2 the air input should be higher, 1/4 maybe 1/3 the way up the barrel and have it split into 2 inputs from opposite sides (you may want to angle them so the air swirls rather than clash and get pushed down into the coals). if you want to make it go boom, you could have the turbo's eat a bucket of water (in your case have a way to make it flip into the water) somehow on some kind of electronic remote trigger. fair warning though, youtube may be nannies about exploding things - steam bee oh em bee's are no joke. where the exhaust tapers down you could weld on a tip, maybe 1ft, and drill holes in it so it has an afterburner effect for more thrust. check out tech ingredients turbojet video for info on how far to drill the holes apart and how to space them as you get to the end.
actually, save the boat. use it to get to the middle and back. make a pontoon from a couple of 44's and use all that rope to get distance from it where you can yank it over so it falls into the water. have rope securing the base from the other side. rope on chain to the barrel. make sure the chain reaches the water :) 1. afterburner 2. baffles 3. swirling inputs splitting pressure 4. boom boom pontoon
@@BobbyMcBoost thanks for the reply, loving your videos, catching up on alot of videos with your patrol and the pinny. so much fun. i used to fuck around 4wd'ing in an old 60 series bush hack. im from a small town in inland north-west WA one of the guys i used to work with was tasmanian and he built a GU patrol LS1 with an auto box back in 2010/11 i bought it off him in 2012. had 35" tyres, 6" suspension lift, 2" body lift. good times. nothing that beast couldnt do.
How about determine like maximum RPM it'll last at least 2 minutes at and limit it at that speed so the board does a couple donuts before it goes bananas?
So here's my take. You should mitigate the exhaust into the turbo temps by water-cooling. Spiral about 3 - 7 m of pipe through a large container of water. The more heat you can extract, the less damage it will do to the turbo. That equals more power and more run time. Hell, for a boat, you could cool it from the pond water itself. And since we all know remote turbos still work, it's not really much of an extreme take.
compound turbo setups are designed so that engines can have a smaller turbo produce boost low down in the engine's rpm range, but then also have a large turbo to produce maximum boost at wide open throttle. In this sort of jet-engine setup, having a sequential turbo setup would not likely have much benefit. As it is, the turbo is producing way more boost than it was ever designed to.
an idea could be like one of them vortex air filters like they put on steam engines and in like them shop air cleaners. just to help get some of the finer bits
I see how the boat wasn't going in a circle, to fix that just tie a rope to the back and front of the boat and connect them into a v shape and then tie that to the anchor and she'll spin no problem
if you put a radiator behind it in the water, and fed the oil through it, so the oil was entering the turbo not on fire... the thing would probably last till it ran out of fuel (or the turbo overspooled and tore itself to bits... but with the highspeed.. both would be awesome!
You could also try filling the barrel with charcoal briquettes instead of wood, which will give you a much cleaner burn and also minimize the amount of large particles being ejected.
Charcoal briquettes absolutely will not give you a cleaner burn, in fact you'll end up with more dirt and other unburnable junk in your output air than if you had used plain wood. The best option would be lump charcoal and a cyclonic air filter on the output that will catch the remaining embers and allow them to burn completely.
I would suggest a better oil system since the one you have seems to have failed a few times now. Maybe build a tank or put a bung with a hose barb in the bottom of your bucket so that it is 1, not capable of pulling free, and 2, always has oil above the inlet of the pump so that as long as the tank does not leak out some other place, you always have oil in the pump and in the turbo. Drawing anywhere above the bottom naturally increases the risk of oil starvation, as well as not firmly affixing the inlet of the oil system so it can not become disconnected.
The outboard rudder only works because of the volume of water being dragged past it by the prop. You'd need a far bigger rudder is you want to turn the boat itself - See sailing ships. Probably better to just have two ropes tethering the boat to the anchor - One at each end
Maybe you should come up with a control system to electronically regulate, remote control, and remote shutdown so that you can get more life out of the turbo. Have it control the waste gate so that if the turbo overheats/looses oil it opens the gate and shuts it down. Maybe also have it close the intake at the same time. It could also regulate the boost pressure so you can run a series of sequential experiments where each time you turn the boost limits up to see how much it will take. More life, more video, more cool stuff! Shoot, I could do it with a microcontroller and some protoboard in an afternoon. Put it in a weather-packed box and call it a day!
Just rudder the air like an airboat. Run some levers to the "throttle" Partition the jet with steel mesh and some cheap Kevlar from ebay. I don't know why but I gotta see how far this goes. Got any merch or a patreon?
You should use a Bypass, to force some cool Air from the compressor direct before into the Turbine wheel. This will cool the turbine, and IT will Help to control the burn, without using a restriction of Air before the compressor. It will reduce exessive boost, but it will increase thrust!. Cause the unheated air will mix with the heated exhaust Gas, expanding more, and thus making more power and producing a lager volume of total exhaust.
@@BobbyMcBoost I thought you only need very low oil pressure for turbo bearings. It’s all hydrodynamic lubrication. It’s all about flow/volume… not pressure, right?
@@mareksumguy1887 depends on the bearing type used in the cartridge. Ball bearings sure I agree but an old school journal bearing turbo needs a certain amount of pressure to stay suspended in the middle ( think crank and rod and how the oil film holds them apart ). But referencing the oil pressure here to boost pressure would be a good idea. Since we are talking psi well beyond what that turbo was designed for. The extra oil pressure would help stop the oil seals from getting pushing in to the oil journal in this specific case.
Turbo companies should use the unrestricted burn barrel boost test as a metric of their durability.
Yes they should haha
No doubt, “this turbo peaks at 30lbs of mc boost on 12 lbs of firewood in the mc barrel”…hell I’d buy that!
This is the definition of "Meanwhile.....in Australia " Absolutly mad and I love it 🤘
Lol! They should flip that thing upside down! Have the exhaust going into the water!
1. Put a heat-exchanger in the tube after the compressor and before the burn barrel to keep the oil cool and recoup heat
2. Make Sure the oil-pump provides at least 2 bar/200 kPascal/30 PSI to the turbo-charger
3. Avoid supersonic peripheral speed of the compressor-/turbine blades
😁
with the way that turbo is going way beyond spec, I would go for an oil pump capable of way more pressure than 2 bar. Probably more like 4+ bar, since that's around where engine oil pressure sits at high rpm. I think a full-sized engine oil pump operating at its typical operating speeds would supply enough pressure for the turbo to not push the oil out with boost.
@@quinnobi42 I was thinking about an RV fresh water pump. 60 psi, 5gpm.
For the oil cooler you could use a few feet of metal tubing either in a vessel of water or extended outside of the boat.
Or use a total loss system where (used) engine oil is fed through the turbo from a high pressure tank and then into the combustion chamber.
@@deltab9768 A total loss system like you described would be awesome and provide lots of fuel for the burn barrel. The problem with using a RV fresh water pump is that it is designed for very high volume flow but low pressure. I was thinking maybe a couple automotive fuel pumps for the turbo oil feed or something because they can supply high pressure
@@deltab9768 Then you will have upgraded from wood power to waste oil power.
I have a design I am working on which works on [literally] anything combustible, so that you can use either of those, or anything else you can shove in the burn box. But mine will not burn the oil it is using for the bearings, mine will be intended, like an actual vehicle engine, to cool, circulate and filter the lubrication oil.
Also that oil will probably be a very expensive silicone based oil to handle heat and reduce corrosiveness since I want something I can actually drive with, not just do silly experiments with.
It immediately burn inside the turbo... This is almost impossible to oil
That thing had some serious thrust! Impressive. A couple laps around is well within your grasps! Thanks for the show!
So much boost it pushed the oil out of the bearings.
Madness.
Needs 10 bars of oil pressure
Bro that thing was on a proper rip until the turbo ate itself, freaking awesome job 👌🏻
The big spool up
The rolling coal
Noise and fire
Love it!
I discovered this series about a month ago. So pumped to see some more! This things mad!
Welcome to the channel bro you've been missing out lol.
The commitment in this one is right up there, what a weapon 👌
Boost out the oil feed is a new problem 😂
New turbo and maybe limit it at 30-40 psi to give the next turbo a few more seconds. Wonder what this one actually got up to? Needs a new higher reading boost gauge
Just use the gauge from a tire inflator. Most go up to 150 psi and I would hope that is enough 😂
"That was good but it was short" thats what she said hahaha🤣
My sexlife in words...
the speed that boost needle pegged itself and the turbo was still increasing in speed as well its got to be close to 100 psi or more before it destroys itself . I think even if the feed for the oil didn't pop out it probably wouldn't of lasted much longer then it did.
It was fun watching it if short looking forward to the next one.
*@Bobby McBoost*
After making a sturdier oil container, can you make something, so the pressure from the engine is pushed into the oil vessel from the top, and act to push out the oil from the bottom?
So the engine itself works to pump it's own oil? (You probably know how to solve this better than what I do?)
Or maybe add like a shaft on the intake that drives an impeller pump or something? (so the faster the engine spins, the more oil is pumped through the engine automatically)
After the re-build we need a tasi coal test 🔥🔥🔥 high temp clean burn. I’m in tasi for Xmas 👌😎😎
Your first video got me hooked and with each video i get more and more excited to see what yall come up with, hell yah keep up these back yard anitics!
I've watched every insane turbo jet upload you have today. Dude I wish I was your neighbor I'd love to help with these shenanigans lmao. Also you have a great attitude 👍 keep it up awesome project and videos
Proudly secured by the Nissan boat anchor and paperweight company.
That was an epic 5 seconds! Need a secondary gage with higher range, curious to know what it topped out at. Can’t wait for next version! Might need a large surface area of mesh so it doesn’t become clogged so fast.
Yeah the large surface area is key. I hope Bobby figures this out.
You guys should fab up a steel vortex dust collector system on the output port, it would prevent the solid material that's killing the turbo from making it into the turbines. There's another channel with one on their turbo keg and seems to greatly increase the turbo longevity, and it also seems to make it burn hotter by swirling all the solid materials inside until they completely burn. Might be worth looking into if you guys want to get it to run longer.
*@Bobby McBoost*
10:56 You can probably also rotate the jet-engine-assembly, so the jet steam blows off the Back Port side (left side, seen towards front), that would naturally create a push on the boat to start spinning.
But I think fine tuning that angle would be impossible, especially when you can not test run it on MAX!!! power.
Yeah I agree. Just a slight kick. Can’t wait to see this thing go full noise 👍
I did give it a little more angle that way just to aid it along. wasn't enough though!
Try to use copper oil lines, or just some metal lines. Use window wipers motor and put it to the input shaft of some servo pump so that you can have some oli pressure. You want around 40PSI of oil pressure for a boost of 30 psi because your boost pressure is "washing" the oil.
I think with the outlet you want one of those cyclonic dust traps to catch the embers/ash out of the exhaust. Might make the turbo last a bit longer
Jes at this high air speeds it going to work great and will have less flow restriction than a mesh.
There are some boys down under who have a cyclonic filter in their system, it seems to work quite well.
This is turning into a great series. Everything right bar the one thing needed gave up will be fantastic next time for sure.
Thanks mate!
Imagine a once-through system where used engine oil comes out of an air tank at 12 bar, goes through a filter, the turbo and then into some kind of nozzle in the combustion chamber! Might be less damaging to the turbo than running on wood. Not sure how I’d go about igniting such a jet.
Do one with 3 falcon xr6 turbos all feeding off the same barrel. I say xr6 turbos coz there cheap and big. And im curious if you directed the exhaust down into the water, maybe it will pick up more speed? Also, i wonder if you were too pump water into the combustion chamber just before it enters the turbo, maybe it will turn into steam and create more pressure aswell as cooling the turbine abit
very hot steam isnt that funny to experiment with.
Best one on UA-cam! You gotta send it for at least a couple laps!!!
We are going too! It can't last any less time, just need a turbski 😆
When you put a grate on the turbo inlet, make it in the shape of a cone or basket pointing down into the burn barrel, so the direction of the airflow doesn't just cause the grate to fill up with material and become obstructed. Also be sure to use a substantial wire size for the grate or basket so it doesn't melt or send parts up into the turbo.
High temp stainless steel filtration mesh sounds like a good place to start... ~( 'w')/
Maybe rebar welded into small mesh like openings, stronger/higher heat range than thin grating.
@@95GTSpeedDemon By the way, rebar melts relatively cool, and it burns out, plus it weighs tons and won't stop anything unless you put just way too much of it in there.
And then when it does, its going to completely block the exhaust so it won't even work BEFORE little particles even get a chance to blow around.
And the upgrades are still being planned..😂
I can't wait ... This video had so much promise and destruction - turbo, fishing rod , Bobby's leg hair....☺️
Great work lads 👍
wonder how much boost it made, guessing in the 60-80psi range
All of it
I was trying to find a suitable gauge, I need to make an adapter to suit a compression tester 👌
i got an idea to help deal with ash. i recon if you put the inlet pipe from the turbo angled where it attaches to the pressure vessel so it will start a vortex inside the pressure vessel that it should be good to help stopping ash from killing the turbo that fast. i could be wrong just a crazy thought.
I believe they use a similar arrangement on the intake of the v22 ospreys to keep sand from killing the engine
You could make the nozzle smaller to see if it has more thrust and doesn't rev up as much. I don't know if it will work, maybe the compressor will stall.
Impressive. Loving this turbo-barrel crazyness
Great video, I'm looking forward to the next version & a longer run :D
I think the turbo ate the fire , check out the boost coming out the oil line!!!!
I think its more the boiling oil from the heat. Also there isn't new oil added so the remaining boils even faster, in the end the seals migt have been destroyed but i don't think it was from the beginning
I have ran this many times and with different turbo's, and the oil never gets to hot.. it has near 20 litres to cycle through and has been way hotter.👍👍
I can’t tell from the footage if the boost is blowing back past the pump or just out the drain. But If I had to take a bet on the boost level I recon it would be around 90 psi. (The gages stoped working at 30?) The next point of failure will be the seam on the tank and that won’t be pretty stand well back!!!!
@@BobbyMcBoost I ment the oil thats directly in the turbo, not the whole bucket. Also the steam thats coming from the bucket looks thik white like oil vapor not so much like wood exhaust and it doesn't come out nearly as fast as the exhaust of the turbo.
But then the air could also slowly leak through the seals and make it look that way.
If there isn't to much leaking it might be best to just have the oil reservoir vented.
Just one lap would have been exiting 😅.
But bloody awesome at the same time.
Haha best anchor ever 👌👌
Haha that's Quite a Anchor Mate
How about a second straight pipe exhaust facing the rear. It would give the excessive exhaust pressure somewhere to go whilst adding to thrust. It would give the turbo an easier time (reduced heat/ rpm) without restricting it's intake.
It could increase total thrust as well as helping it last more than a couple of seconds.
a few weeks ago I saw your turbo barrel and said come to the us, in the south theyd make you mayor for that death dealer. This boat with one? Theyd make you govenor of the state for this terrifying setup🤣
Just needs a bigger turbo. Should work next time for sure 👍🏻😂😂
Nooooo! The second I saw that feed line pop out I yelled out loud. Oh well, a vent hole for next time!
Almost need that bucket of oil sitting in a cooler of ice water and use some of those iron pipe fittings to weigh the feed lines into the bucket. There again all that boost might make the oil null! XD Been loving these!
About to be so epic...definitely have another crack with a less pre seized turbo
Love how the Boost gauge just pegs max when you open it up LoL
Maybee he can add a divider to the boost line and feed an engine with it for static boost
love these kind of videos !!
I originally designed these contraptions to decrease BBQ cook times and for fuel alternative jet engine flight solutions
The Survant James channel built a fancy cyclone and put it before the turbo. If you have some suitable scrap metal around maybe that is a way forward?
Sitting on the and of my chair waiting for the next one. Thanks for the entertainment.
This is like Florida man on a hole other level.
This was mint!! What if you had a rope on the front and one on the back tied to the anchor point, like in a triangle.
Well done Bobby that was sick
Mate this is SICK! Keep building on it!
As soon as I seen that motor I pissed myself. Zd30. The perfect ⚓ 😆🤣🤣🤣👌🏼 well done
Beer + Buddies + McBoost + McBarrel = Hilarity😂
I thought about copying this idea of using a boat for testing. But I want to try getting the cooling exhaust tip of a diesel pickup and after the fresh air intake of the tip adding a fuel injector and spraying kerosine into it for an extra big flame
Wow that was bloody impressive
Bobby mcboost the mad scientist!!
You think if you had like a partial cover welded onto that waste gate it can max out what its physically capable of without falling apart? I wonder if maybe this is just its inevitable fate at full send. Just not capable of running that hard for long
6:32 i think it hit AT LEAST 40 PSI..... just on the sound alone
might even be 50PSI
.
i know i was SHOCKED when our shops 2021 dodge hit 32 PSI of boost.....
that sucker MOVES OUT..... and the way the trans shifts.... it seems like its slipping a bit
.
30+ PSI is just a whole different beast!
Heh turns out you need the waste gate to avoid pushing all the oil out of the turbo :P
Soon as I heard that Aussie ascent say "Ooh it's tight" I knew I was in the right place.
😅
That boost was mad probably blew thru the seals and over pressured oil feed i don't think you could have done anything to prevent prevent that if you want to let it eat
Can you move the turbo further away from the heat to stop burning it up and still acquire boost?
Classic case of overtemp/overspeed caused by too high a turbine inlet temperature, you need to follow standard gas turbine combustion principles , a Primary combustion zone , with Secondary and Tertiary cooling zones to produce the required temperature going into the turbine to provide just the right amount of thermal energy to power the compressor . You need to fit a "wastegate" on your compressor discharge tube , set the wastegate opening pressure to 30 psi of boost , the discharge from the wastegate needs to be plumbed to the Tertiary zone of your "combustor" , preferably close to the ducting into the turb scroll inlet . With this setup your turbo will spool up to 30 psi boost using "excessive" temperatures but only for a few seconds which is acceptable , before "cold" compressor discharge from the wastegate exhaust is added bringing the turb inlet temp down to the required temperature to maintain 30 psi boost with the backpressure created by the jetnozzle . The jetnozzle sizing can be reduced progressively until you have a temperature of ~650 deg C in the jetpipe at your 30 psi boost , this will provide the maximum thrust possible without damaging your turbo , a large diesel turbo should be able to produce ~8-10 pounds of thrust per square inch of comp wheel inducer area , the Garrett TV84 turbo I used in my turbine bike had a 3.5"-88mm comp inducer and produced up to 110 lbs -50 kgs of thrust , ~11 lbs/sq inch of inducer, using a 76 mm dia jet nozzle but at higher than ideal temperatures . You guys have the abilities to produce the best and most powerful engine possible but there are certain parameters which must be adhered to for success .
Bobby, try diverting some compressor air into the turbine inlet to cool it
Shows how much air a turbo can shove into a motor. Crazy man
Proper crazy hey!
i commented on hunter goodrich's latest burn barrel video and i think you could pull this off easier than him (cause of the dam). these are the recommendations i made , i think you could adapt this since you need to fab a new turbo anyway:
use layers of fine mesh as baffles to prevent partially burned sparks from combusting inside the turbos (across whole barrel) and #2 the air input should be higher, 1/4 maybe 1/3 the way up the barrel and have it split into 2 inputs from opposite sides (you may want to angle them so the air swirls rather than clash and get pushed down into the coals). if you want to make it go boom, you could have the turbo's eat a bucket of water (in your case have a way to make it flip into the water) somehow on some kind of electronic remote trigger. fair warning though, youtube may be nannies about exploding things - steam bee oh em bee's are no joke. where the exhaust tapers down you could weld on a tip, maybe 1ft, and drill holes in it so it has an afterburner effect for more thrust. check out tech ingredients turbojet video for info on how far to drill the holes apart and how to space them as you get to the end.
actually, save the boat. use it to get to the middle and back. make a pontoon from a couple of 44's and use all that rope to get distance from it where you can yank it over so it falls into the water. have rope securing the base from the other side. rope on chain to the barrel. make sure the chain reaches the water :)
1. afterburner
2. baffles
3. swirling inputs splitting pressure
4. boom boom pontoon
My input is only one side,, but it does enter on an angle to have a swirl effect. 👍👍 all good ideas 🤘
@@BobbyMcBoost thanks for the reply, loving your videos, catching up on alot of videos with your patrol and the pinny. so much fun. i used to fuck around 4wd'ing in an old 60 series bush hack. im from a small town in inland north-west WA one of the guys i used to work with was tasmanian and he built a GU patrol LS1 with an auto box back in 2010/11 i bought it off him in 2012. had 35" tyres, 6" suspension lift, 2" body lift. good times. nothing that beast couldnt do.
How about determine like maximum RPM it'll last at least 2 minutes at and limit it at that speed so the board does a couple donuts before it goes bananas?
Best use for a zd30 if I ever seen one!
you need a downpipe to go under the water, you may even be able to rig a venturi valve to pull water in and give it more thrust in that configuration.
You aussies are insane man…I love it so much
first wood fired jet boat? Successful!
So here's my take. You should mitigate the exhaust into the turbo temps by water-cooling. Spiral about 3 - 7 m of pipe through a large container of water. The more heat you can extract, the less damage it will do to the turbo. That equals more power and more run time. Hell, for a boat, you could cool it from the pond water itself. And since we all know remote turbos still work, it's not really much of an extreme take.
WHAT IF ITS MADE LIKE A COMPOUND SETUP ? THAT WOULD SURELY MAKE SOME POWER
compound turbo setups are designed so that engines can have a smaller turbo produce boost low down in the engine's rpm range, but then also have a large turbo to produce maximum boost at wide open throttle. In this sort of jet-engine setup, having a sequential turbo setup would not likely have much benefit. As it is, the turbo is producing way more boost than it was ever designed to.
an idea could be like one of them vortex air filters like they put on steam engines and in like them shop air cleaners. just to help get some of the finer bits
I see how the boat wasn't going in a circle, to fix that just tie a rope to the back and front of the boat and connect them into a v shape and then tie that to the anchor and she'll spin no problem
The sound is crazy!!!
Hell if I never heard of this guy this guy's fucking sick man! Hell yeah bro keep making the good videos you got good content
Thanks mate! Spread it around all!😜😜👌
if you put a radiator behind it in the water, and fed the oil through it, so the oil was entering the turbo not on fire... the thing would probably last till it ran out of fuel (or the turbo overspooled and tore itself to bits... but with the highspeed.. both would be awesome!
If that oil line didn't blow off. I think it would have made a lap
THAT WAS AWESOME DO IT AGAIN
Looks like youll need a higher boost gauge. im curious what thats pushing. over 100lbs you think?
You could also try filling the barrel with charcoal briquettes instead of wood, which will give you a much cleaner burn and also minimize the amount of large particles being ejected.
Charcoal briquettes absolutely will not give you a cleaner burn, in fact you'll end up with more dirt and other unburnable junk in your output air than if you had used plain wood. The best option would be lump charcoal and a cyclonic air filter on the output that will catch the remaining embers and allow them to burn completely.
I would suggest a better oil system since the one you have seems to have failed a few times now. Maybe build a tank or put a bung with a hose barb in the bottom of your bucket so that it is 1, not capable of pulling free, and 2, always has oil above the inlet of the pump so that as long as the tank does not leak out some other place, you always have oil in the pump and in the turbo.
Drawing anywhere above the bottom naturally increases the risk of oil starvation, as well as not firmly affixing the inlet of the oil system so it can not become disconnected.
Best comment "I was going to go pump up a biscuit"
You need to run the compressed air tube right through the exhaust so it starts much quicker with hotter air
Nothing but quality!!
The outboard rudder only works because of the volume of water being dragged past it by the prop. You'd need a far bigger rudder is you want to turn the boat itself - See sailing ships. Probably better to just have two ropes tethering the boat to the anchor - One at each end
You could inject water into that afterburner to generate a ton of extra thrust
Holy cow the oil return is boiling 😂😂😂
❤ love you experiments can I suggest please do a Twin Turbo 😈👹 please please !!!
No mosquitos left alive in that swamp.
Maybe you should come up with a control system to electronically regulate, remote control, and remote shutdown so that you can get more life out of the turbo. Have it control the waste gate so that if the turbo overheats/looses oil it opens the gate and shuts it down. Maybe also have it close the intake at the same time. It could also regulate the boost pressure so you can run a series of sequential experiments where each time you turn the boost limits up to see how much it will take. More life, more video, more cool stuff!
Shoot, I could do it with a microcontroller and some protoboard in an afternoon. Put it in a weather-packed box and call it a day!
Crickey mate, look at that little rippa!
Fair dinkum!
keep the waste gate, set higher than last time and keep going!!!
Just rudder the air like an airboat. Run some levers to the "throttle" Partition the jet with steel mesh and some cheap Kevlar from ebay. I don't know why but I gotta see how far this goes. Got any merch or a patreon?
Yep yep, merch at bobbymcboost. Com 🤘🤘
@@BobbyMcBoost my man I'm on it!
@@BobbyMcBoost just put my order in can't wait! Got yourself a new super fan!
Boost gauge is quality, Thing was tapped hard and still came back to settle right on zero afterwards 😂
Yeah you're not wrong, it did cop it pretty sweet hey. 😅
3:50 throws the lighter in the water😂😂😂😂 love the videos mate that was fucking awesome
The end fell off the map gas nozzle....👊🥲
You should use a Bypass, to force some cool Air from the compressor direct before into the Turbine wheel. This will cool the turbine, and IT will Help to control the burn, without using a restriction of Air before the compressor. It will reduce exessive boost, but it will increase thrust!. Cause the unheated air will mix with the heated exhaust Gas, expanding more, and thus making more power and producing a lager volume of total exhaust.
Best thing all day.
Mate that was sensational! 😂
Finally we’re getting somewhere with this turbo barrel!
Why would the oil pressure need to be referenced to boost pressure??
Doesn't need to be referenced, but would be cool use of boost pressure to have it supply oil with no moving parts.
@@BobbyMcBoost I thought you only need very low oil pressure for turbo bearings. It’s all hydrodynamic lubrication. It’s all about flow/volume… not pressure, right?
@@mareksumguy1887 depends on the bearing type used in the cartridge. Ball bearings sure I agree but an old school journal bearing turbo needs a certain amount of pressure to stay suspended in the middle ( think crank and rod and how the oil film holds them apart ).
But referencing the oil pressure here to boost pressure would be a good idea. Since we are talking psi well beyond what that turbo was designed for. The extra oil pressure would help stop the oil seals from getting pushing in to the oil journal in this specific case.
@@lewisanth4986 journal bearings are still hydrodynamic… not hydrostatic like main/rod bearings.
@@mareksumguy1887 I guess the turbos I've worked on are completely inefficient and old then! Haha. Thanks for telling me.
Ahhh water in me boot.love the accient
We’re going to need a bigger boost gauge…
We are. 😅