The first 500 people to use my link will receive a one month free trial of Skillshare" skl.sh/cheapaudioman12231 Fosi Audio ZA3 amzn.to/47aHx9o Fosi Audio Official - bit.ly/za3influtrack 15% off promo code：FAZA3CA15 (This code will expire on 27th December) check out my other channel www.youtube.com/@cheapwatchman_official Intro graphics by johnvilardi.com Support the Channel! Shop on Amazon amzn.to/3W8vsgK Crutchfield shop-links.co/cguPK8XEGmt Join the best hifi community out there! patreon.com/cheapaudioman TRY ROON www.rofjdjk3ns.com/33G977/2CTPL/ Tidal Deal bit.ly/3siuqSF Amazon Unlimited Music Trial amzn.to/3DRAVj9 Crutchfield shop-links.co/cguPK8XEGmt Best Buy Deals shop-links.co/cf9yDZeYtUH amzn.to/3GkNaop CAM Store (New Products!) bit.ly/30Lgu4K apos.audio?sca_ref=552340.TY98BPcZ6P
Yeah, sounds like a good amp, buuuut... IF I'm gonna replace my 1989 Technics SU-600 'New Class A' integrated amp (*) with a modern well built 'low cost' alternative like one of these, I REALLY WANT an amp to ALSO include well set up Bass & Treble tone controls (NOT 1 combined B&T knob, but 2 separate)... 🤔😏 * I bought it new back in the day and it's been serviced a coupla times since, so, she STILL sounds ace! But IF I replace her for something a little more compact, then yeah, MAYYYYYBE I'll go Class D, maybe... 🤔😏 😎🇬🇧
@cheapaudioman I have unifi 2.0 as my main speakers of the house hooked up to an old Yamaha r9. What would you say is the best matched amplifier for these from your experience?
One thing I like about this is the fact that it's a great amp with a single coax out for the sub. Finding a cheap preamp, as decent as the original Magni from Schitt, with a single plug sub out that isn't actually a stereo out, is really hard.
Fully agreed... this thing really blew me away, and at the $150 price it's almost unbeatable. Maybe completely unbeatable as of now (4/2/24). Certainly the best "small" audio investment I've made over the years. Thanks as always and regards.
Today I hooked up a new ZA3 and I'm really impressed. I'm using an Audiolab 6000A Play in pre-amp mode and powering a pair of Triangle Borea Bro 3s. I have the sub out on the Fosi connected to a Hsu Labs powered sub. First impressions- the sound stage is much larger, separation of instruments is far better and much more detail is revealed in large, complex orchestral pieces. The only negative is that as good as the Triangles sound with the added power the ZA3 brings to the table, I may have delayed the need to upgrade my speakers.
Note to Fosi audio. Take two sets of the internal boards from these, put them in a bigger box to act as separate left and right mono speakers. This will give you more space on the rear to add better binding posts etc. this means they can sit on a hifi rack with the rest of the gear. I suspect you'll also have better cooling. Plus it will look pretty cool having TWO of their knobs on the front...
Given the propensity for manufacturers such as Fosi, Aiyma, Topping, Douk, WiiM, et al to revise/upgrade / expand their line ups at a much faster pace than older mainstream brands, such models may already be on the drawing boards - or be at the end of limited production runs at the time of reading. 😊
Yes to the idea of coupling them in a single unit but making the volume control single for both boards. Also adding the DAC functionality of BT30D Pro would make it the one ring to rule them all budget DAC/completed amp.
My two just arrived. I use a digital crossover, a Minidsp SHD, to split the signals to my Maggie LRSs and my dipole subs. So, one ZA3 to drive the Maggies above 120hz, and one ZA3 to drive the subs below. So far, so good. Until now, I used two Adcom 535IIs. It's way to early too make an sound quality judgments. I do like the build quality on the ZA3s.
If you are planning on running in mono and want to upgrade to sparkos op amps then save yourself $136 on Sparkos op amps and only buy two for the upgrade? In mono you are only using the right channel on both amps so only need two sparkos op amps to upgrade and not 4. Confirmed with Fosi.
Okay Randy, so....I was EXTREMELY skeptical of your review. I decided recently to take the plunge and getting one of these off of Amazon. This thing is so dang dynamic, it blows my mind. At 6 ohms and all that power, I'm just amazed. I'm never doubting you...or for that matter, Class D again.
I recently picked up a $2600 stereo on impulse (Kef 350/CXA81/sub) - sounded absolutely amazing, but I regretted spending so much money for diminishing returns. Swapped it out for the Fosi ZA3, q150 and SVS sub for a fraction of the price and it sounds as good or better. This is a killer pairing.
I did end up buying one of these (actually I bought two, but more on this later), mainly based on this review and I have compared the sound quality to my Denon 545r receiver and was shocked to hear that the sound quality matched it! I didn't really crank it up though as I don't really listen to music very loud. This did prompt me to get a second ZA3 to try them out in dual mono mode. I was after the wider sound stage and stereo separation. However, the second unit I bought, when I put it on my system and hooked it up to the VU3 meter, I had noticed that in mono mode, the needle was fluctuating up and down a few DB. The prior unit I bought wasn't doing it. This had me concerned that I thought the output was fluctuating DC, so I put a meter on the speaker outs of the amplifier, but it wasn't passing DC. I swapped the channels, and the problem moved, so it was an issue with the new er amp. At first I was thinking that perhaps the common ground connection of the VU3 might have caused something, but others have used the amps dual mono with a VU meter and mentioned nothing of a fluctuation. So, I really didn't know what was causing it, and I was very concerned as I had my KEF Q-350's hooked up to the system. So I just returned the 2nd amplifier. I didn't bother getting a replacement. Even though I do like the sound of the ZA3, I do have my concerns over the longevity of these class D amplifiers. I think it is probably good for my computer system, but for a main system, I think I will stick with a class AB amplifier. I have the Emotiva TA-1 on my radar now. That looks like a nice all in one solution. For the system I am putting together for the ZA3, I probably will hook up a Wiim Ultra to it as a pre-amp.
@myaudioquest 0 seconds ago I bought the Fosi ZA-3 (with 48V power supply) thinking it might be a keeper. What I discovered was a mixed bag...thin in the mid-range and bass. I also did not care for the volume control, cheap like in build and function. On the plus side is exceptional clarity in the treble but requires a sub-woofer to add body and weight to the music. Best used with a bass centric loudspeaker or possibly use two amplifiers. My two cents!
I bought a Fosi ZA3 for the garage/shop. It worked well initially, but the left channel crapped out yesterday after three days use. It is packed to go back. I now move a proper, full-size amp out there during the days I’m in there working. In my opinion, these new, cheap chip-amps are good, and have their place, but are no substitute for the real thing, especially long term.
ZA3 is NOT bridged, it's just a right channel mono. There's some benefit, (slightly more power, no cross talk), but if you really want a mono block amp with 2X more power, the Aiyma A07 max is still the king 🤴 2nd - I don't like how everybody says/wants to add this or that or everything and the kitchen sink. If this were my design. I would eliminate the sub out, eliminate the volume, make it bridgeable, move switches to the back, 1 switch for stereo / bridged mono and another switch for high pass, low pass, full range. Make this a solid affordable amp with singleness of purpose, then put all the bells and whistles into a processor, dac, pre-amp, whatever?!?
I was looking for a comparison with the BT20A PRO, so thank you for this review. You should update your recommended list in the description to match what you recommend as you get new stuff!
Well guys I've purchased two of these highly recommended by Randy cheap amps over the past few years. If you are wondering, they are cheap amps. They feel cheap in hand, knobs and connectors are cheap feeling, they visually scream cheap. Sound wise, they have both sounded like cheap amps.....they sound just ok.....I've used them as soundbar replacements paired with cheap bookshelf speakers and they do the job nicely. Neither of them sound, look or feel anything like a replacement for an actual hifi amp. If you're looking for a computer desktop speaker solution, a soundbar solution or are a kid, a student or very limited financially these amps will get you by in a pinch. If you are looking for an actual hifi amp then your money will be much better spent on a used market mid- fi amp. Randy is a good hype man and the amps he recommends do seem to be generally functional however he could do a better job reminding people that the word cheap is in the name of his channel for a reason. If you buy one of these amps you will probably get something that works and doesn't sound painful but you should also expect to be underwhelmed with your purchase......a lot of hype in the video but once in the hand you realize it's still a very cheap audio product
Watched your video and some others after that, outcome is that I've just ordered two ZA3's(48v)!! Let's experience how they drive my AE520 speakers. I will have to wait a few weeks but I expect it will be worth waiting for 🙂
Man watching reviews on this thing has my hyped as hell for it. I'm gonna just splurge and get two from the start and maybe mess with opamps in the future.
I wouldn’t call Japanese German and American parts (TI chip)“Chi-fi” . Lotta people hating on these things in the comment. I bought the V3 and that’s run Every speaker I’ve thrown at it at high volumes without it even getting up to room temperature, longevity is the only test that remains.
A quick way to get beyond the totally silly marketing specs on these Class D amps is the following... Wattage = Amperage times Voltage. Their largest Power Supply is 48 volts times 5 amps so that equates to 240 TOTAL WATTS POWER CONSUMPTION THAT IS EVEN AVAILABLE. In addition, most class D amps run around 85% efficient to their output. So multiply that total power consumption of 240 watts by 85% efficiency (.85) and that equals to around 204 watts MAXIMUM power available, or 102 watts per channel MAXIMUM power. There are short term ways of getting some very short-term power using massive capacitors, but these smaller class D amps don't have them. They are good values for realistic listening of bookshelf speakers but probably not good for larger floor standers in larger rooms or more difficult impedance speakers if looking for real power.
These little amps are perfect for adding dedicated amplification to individual speakers in a home theater setup. The small footprint is perfect for adding more power to a center channel and really stepping up your listening experience.
Thanks, good stuff as always. Two just arrived this morning. The most intriguing thing is.... it looks a ZD3 is in the works. No idea what it will hold, or if it will ship, but the line drawing looks great.
Congrats, where did you order yours? I ordered one from Amazon on Dec 20th...9 days later it still hasn't shipped. Maybe minions are still frantically assembling mine in the factory?
@@paulc9564 Got lucky and stumbled on them in Amazon the day they released. Bought 2 sight unseen...set them up this morning and so far so good. Still waiting to get some info regarding the pin out on the 12v trigger so I can try to make my own with a recycled wall wart and remote outlet (or maybe a Clapper :) No idea if it will work, but can't see why it wouldn't. Now I'm keeping a close eye out for the (seemingly) impending ZD3.
I was seriously about to ask about the BT20A Pro, and then you mentioned it. Lol, i was considering it for a temporary unit to power some speakers and a sub.
I have a BT30D Pro with 2x tpa3255 that i use for a desktop pc setup and hooked it up to my 4ohm cerwin vega towers and let my audiophile mate hear it and then compare to my Onkyo receiver. So the thing with class d is there is no finesse or depth. Its just on you like a angry dog. Onkyo is a atmos model and even in pure mode a/b just sounds more refined where the class d is on you and has a flat soundstage. Loud as hell btw. I’d be happy to use it in a outdoor setting as its load and portable. Drives my old subwoofers that have had their amps die fine. Use a polk sub and two old all aluminium infinity home theatre speakers on my desk. Overkill
Input was a wiim pro into a modi 3e playing Flac from my nas server. Desktop is pc to Topping 30ii lite. I prefer the modi with the ESS chipset on my onkyo. Topping is not as musical sounding as the Schitt more clinical
Wish they would go back to a separate on/off toggle switch and maybe do a deal with sparkos/burson for op amp upgrade at purchase, you get a choice of power supply after all.
I have inherited a Passlabs X-150 preamp with balanced outputs, which helped me pull the FOMO plug on two of these ZA3s, but am still confused as to whether they actually need a preamp (What actually is the ZA3? Is it an integrated, or a power amp?) let alone me actually needing two of them - because they cant be parallel bridged.
The difference in mono vs. Stereo is largely in the additional power supply: you see, when you want to play difficult-to-drive speakers off a 5-Amp power supply, you'll see shortage of current from that power supply. 48 or 32 Volts don't make much of a difference here, because low-impedance speakers need current more than voltage.
Great review Randy. I was shocked at how much better this sounds than my Aiyima A07 with the same TPA3255 chip. I swore I wouldn't buy another typically lean Class D amp, unless it had tone controls to compensate. But to my surprise, this is the first Class D amp I've ever heard that has BODY, it sounds warm! Like you say, the image is big and wide. It's airy. The sound of my Magnepan LRS+ has moved up another notch, they're more spacious now, and with more depth. I've only had it for a few hours, so it still needs burning in, but so far I'm pleasantly surprised. Some people might think it's too laid back and slightly soft, if they like a forward, harder, brighter presentation, but not me. It sounds pleasing with all kinds of music I've tried, as long as it's well recorded. It's especially good with separation, pinpointing locations of instruments across the soundstage. And then, throw in a sub-out that works in conjunction with the volume control. Bravo!
Trying too hard to do what? Not sure what that means. But let me emphasize that the A07 has been my fave class D amp over the past 18 months, so I'm certainly not criticizing it. May I ask what speakers you are using to reach these conclusions? It may be a system matching problem. The Za3 has a warm, laid back presentation, not forward, maybe a touch soft, but always a pleasant listen. It easily differentiates between radio stations using different amounts of reverb, which was never so apparent before. But, perhaps because I had just switched over from listening to an Aiyima A07 that sounded stressed under a 48 volt supply on its 50 volt max. capacity caps, the differences between the Za3 and A07 was more emphasized. Tell you what, when I get a chance, I'll do another comparison, just out of curiosity. But so far, it's pleasant and I'm pleased. @@TheMittster
Almost an "audio-fool"...but you saved me. Keeping my modest 2.1 system. Watching your channel for 2 years...and with the "Best Ever Heard" component on a 2-week recurrence, I have saved about $10,000 in rabbit hole expenditures. Thanks! Bring back the Buddha.
perfect, i hope it will become available soon on amazon too because i want one. you know what really is a huge selling point on top for me on those little guys? as long as they sound good enough... we live in a world where living costs increases soooo much. if i look at the specs of my old trusty avr and i see something like ''pulling up to 500watts out the wall'' ... electricity is at a price where you really feel that. especially if you listen to music all day pretty much and you have that monster pulling tons of it all day... that gets expensive. those little class D in comparison... you re literally saving money every day
Just ordered mine off of the Fosi web site. Fosi gives you options on what you wish to order. I purchased my ZA3 from them without a power supply (because I already have a half dozen different linear power supplies), for only - now get this - $88 USD. With a power supply, Fosi will charge you around $128 (from their website).
i thought a remote control would be super important to me but theres something funny i noticed: the volume buttons on my old denons remote went bad so i had to go to it every time. instead, i just told him to allways turn on in my room listening volume. i usually dont turn it up louder...and if i want to make it more quiet in the evening, i just use my phone for that because i cast my music from my phone anyways and i can adjust the volume of my chromecast audio and spotify and whatever there too so the only thing i use my remote for is to turn it on and off... but then again, i have an smsl su1 and in the morning i need to go there and turn it on anyways so the remote is mostly a gimmick
If I'm using my phone to run Spotify, can I use the volume on the phone? I had something similar and I had to turn the volume on max on the unit in order to get max volume with my phone controls and this caused a bad hiss. I'm trying to avoid that.
Amp of the year my rear end. All these cheap ChiCom amps are designed to make you buy the next version months later. Save your money and buy something solid for 500-700. Slowly build a system, don’t waste your money.
No ones forcing you to buy the next thing, you can buy one that suits you and dont buy a thing until the one you bought fucks up. These amps are up there with the 500-700 dollar amps, easily.
These little amps are great for the monet. As long as your not super critical. I do wonder what the durability is on alot of them.(can u get five or ten years of daily use from one?)
I really like Sparkos op-amps, as well! Another option that might be better for some folks, and cost a bit less - is the Muses02; which is an IC op-amp that costs about $45.
@@bling5279 I tried about 5 different IC op-amps, and I think the Muses02 is the best of those - but I like the SS3602 more. And if you can fit the SS2590 (like in the RCA socket on the J2S, with a riser) then that is even better.
@@Zimmy_1981No they are not hard to install but still very annoying. Threre are caps close to the op amp socket and you need to wiggle them out straight to not bend the legs. I have done it a few times and I will do it again but I won't ab test it. Good luck and hope you enjoy op amp rolling.
It seems like they're already workinh on the next one. Using other texas instruments chip with pffb (i think this is it) which allows for muche better performance. They've also been listening (as usual) to a lot of feedback from their customers to improve this next new unit. I fully agree on the volume bypass switch! Had already told them in a forum.
It would be nice if they made a good pre amp: two SE inputs (or one SE and one balanced), SE output, good remote (using bluetooth), decent headphone out, and maybe a sub-out.
Convinced but how much any better sound can one get coming from marantz sr6010 av receiver with b&w 685s2 3.1 speakers ..all being same series, to, 3 mono setup with 48v ps ..again over the same setup? ..(av receiver connected to za3s w rca)
P.S. The latest ZA3 user manual makes reference to a ZD3 component. Perhaps a new DAC, or preamp in the works? Perhaps with XLR outs?? Haven't seen anything from the kickstart yet.
Mono blocks normally run in either "series" which give you more gain so go louder, or "parallel" which gives you little or no more gain, but should give you more ability to drive harder loads. Looking on the fosi website these are configured in parallel so I reckon the actual power output between having one amp or two mode wont be that much differnt, what your hearing is probaly the ability of the two amps to drive lower ohm loads a lot better which would make the speakers sound a lot more dynamic.
These are nice amps, but let’s be honest would these really be a better choice over something like the Marantz PM6007 which is retailing in the UK at £299, I guess it’s a subjective conclusion to say the least and as Randy has often mentioned, space and convenience play a big part. I have had the A07 Max, V3 and so on and they don’t present as smooth as the Marantz PM6007 or quite as full. This is not a surprise though. The AO7 Max out of the box by comparison did sound a little flat, dry and thuddy in the bass. Maybe an upgrade to the op amp may improve things slightly but I doubt to the extent of matching my PM6007 in many aspects, is it a fair comparison…probably not really. Mono setup the power increase is great but that is only volume and maybe a little better separation in general but then we are touching £300 currently for a pair of ZA3 bare amps. It does start to get expensive thereafter ie adding a Dac etc and by the way the Dac in the Marantz is quite decent, a lot better than the Iotavx SA3 which I replaced with the PM6007. Currently in the UK I don’t think anyone could find a better value amp than the PM6007 and I have never been a fan boy or someone who’s a big Marantz fan in particular. Still, just my two pennies and I can’t say that either choice would particularly disappointing especially if you are willing to splash out on op amps, Dacs and maybe better cables. I would still love to hear the ZA3 via balanced at some point but in my own mind I would imagine it might sound like a beefed up V3 which is no bad thing at least in the current budget sector.
I have to agree with you on the Marantz PM6007. I read these comments of all the different way these guys are buy these little amps and trying to make them sound better and all that work and money could buy the Marantz with money left over and a lot more time of just listening to great music.
Does anyone know if you run a pair of these in mono and swap in different op amps, do you need to do both left and right on both amps (4 total op amps) or do you only have to change out the right sides on each?
For anyone with the same question, this is from Fosi Audio... "Hi friend, you can just replace the R-OPAMP one. For mono mode, we only need to replace the right channel's op-amp."
I say these today on their YT Channel. I like it. Surprised the V3 is more powerful tho. I got the V3 with Orange knob and 48V from Fosi for $110 on sale a few months ago.
That thing is sick. Fosi Audio is legit. Can't wait for them to make something like that with TWS bluetooth pairing. I use these ZK-1001B Mono Bluetooth Amplifier Boards and they work just like wireless ear pod do, but are wireless monoblocks.
The sub out surely has something to do with listening to their customers; that’s a major complaint about the V3, that the output is not controlled by the volume knob.
Interested in a comparison to the Aiyima A07 Max in both stereo and dual mono. I understand the extra features but I don't need those. You basically stated that the A07 Max is as good in stereo so I'm hoping that two of them are just are good in mono because they're half the price.
A class d with good chips and integration and vu meters like luxman would be my end game. Well I have a purifi amp. Which is end game for now. The crazy thing is that the V3 and mostly probably this amp is close to same sound quality. We live in good hifi times
I think a lot of people probably get the wrong impression with Chinese amps. They are really meant for entry level and best value for low cost. Are they gonna match a lot of class a/b or more expensive gear? Probably not long term use. But it’s all relative to price and budget and what you want to invest in. I played the chi-fi musical chairs for a long time and finally just went class a/b when I could afford it. They all have their place and are good for specific things. It’s weird how people in general can’t understand that. Good and bad is relative to budget. Just some thoughts.
I have a question? Let's say that I would use 3x fosi for a home theater, namely for the right, left and center speakers. The question is: if I would mark the speakers as "large" on the receiver and add a subwoofer (3) to each RLC speaker, because each fosi has a sub output. Does that make sense? Because more than 50% of the movie sound comes to the center and I love the bass in speech. Let's say when some dragon talks. Or transformers deep voice. Therefore, I would like to strengthen it exactly in the center and also on RL. Would that boost the bass on center and on RL?
How long before they pull a OnePlus? Both are based in Shenzhen, both initially offered high value electronics that outperformed devices costing hundreds more. Once brand loyalty was achieved, Oneplus steadily racheted up their prices with each device release until reaching price parity with their competitors.
It would be interesting to see a comparison of sound quality between this unit and some more expensive but still affordable options such as the Emotiva BasX A2 or TA1. I'm limiting the comparison to SQ because the a higher price tends to buy more features.
Just wondering. While checking out my ZA3 with 3 Sparko's opamp's connected to the Emotiva PT2 and a old Denon DVD/CD player connected via optical. I did this to keep the setup as simple as possible. Having purchased a pair of RCA to XLR cables and connected the ZA3 from the PT2. Compared it to my Ao7 with Burr/Brown opamp's and also the Fossi V3 with Muse opamp's. I quickly came to the decision that the ZA3 sounded much better. Sound stage width and depth, instrument placement, vocals, midrange and bass were noticeably better IMHO. Long story short. After all that business I flipped the switch from RCA to the XLR connection and again quickly came to conclusion that it sounded way better than the RCA's. Asked Fossi and the told me that the XLR's will sound better than the RCA's. Again wondering why none of the reviews I have watched make the A/B comparison between them. It is only connecting another set of cables and then flipping the switch. Please Randy could you make the comparison and give us your opinion.
Here's how to destroy the audio electronics establishment: An inexpensive "Integrated Amp" with only digital inputs, built in DSP, crossover, and room correction. It should also have separate low and high amp-level outputs, which are fed by the built-in crossover, plus a line level subwoofer output. (Wireless sub optional.) That right there would KILL OFF lots of high end audio. Hell, people could buy direct from factory, flat-pack kit speaker sets that just have a tweeter and mid-woofer, and with the right subwoofer, this could sound better than many expensive and mid-tier speakers.
Does the sub out works the same in either mono or stereo mode? I noticed that there is less bass coming out of RCA sub out or no bass at all in mono mode.
These one function amplifiers have way over advertised power ratings well into amplifier clipping. This is a 75 watt x 2 amplifier at 36 volts at 4 ohm, or 40 watts at 8 ohm x2 amp. Above that and the amp goes into clipping. It is a good 40 watt amp. They should use industry standards to test amplifier power and not offer misleading ratings, until they do that they will just pollute the earth with unnecessary waste.
Just ordered a ZA3. Think I got the order in before the January units sold out. Not really impressed with the xlr inputs. None of the pre amps I look at have them ( not even Fosi's ).
I'm having some confusion. Can anyone say if the ZA3 sums the stereo inputs into a mono output when in mono mode? Or am I completely off on how this works? I'm still learning.
When ran in a mono mode, you must have two of these. One ZA3 for the left channel and one ZA3 for the right channel. Both left and right mono amps will have only ONE rca input from the preamp. They will both use the right channel rca input and the right channel +/- speaker outputs. If you have some questions about the set-up, go to Williston Audio Labs here on UA-cam and look up his ZA3 test / review.
Amplifier of the year??? Are you joking? It is flawed in as many ways as it can be! It doesn't deliver the advertised power, its frequency response is load dependant, and even the on/off switch is in the volume button, like so many entry-level japanese equipments from... ...3 decades ago! A product is only inexpensive when it provides a lot of value for the money, and that's certainty not the case with this product. I understand that Fosi has sent demo units for many reviewers (that's no coincidence that so many are reviewing it right now), but anyhow...
Your right it's a shame fosi didn't add pffb to fix load dependency as well as upping internal component quality. I personally think there's a market for a slightly higher end v3 style tpa3255 amp. The chip definitely has potential. Why they recommend 48v is beyond me also. 42v is perfect, after that the chip starts to run warm.
what preamp and speakers you guys recommend with this amp in a regular stereo mode with one unit? I would use it with my phone, Bluetooth, my laptop, for music snd movies also.
Yes, full size binding posts and volume defeat and pretty much perfect. Beyond that all Fosi needs to do is nail it with their next pre-amp to go along with this "higher-end" amp line and for that they need 3-4 inputs, and remote and thats about it and you'd be on your way to being able to build a super high-end electronics front end that could power just about anything.
The notion that established electronics manufacturers have to undergo more elaborate and expensive processes in order to build a higher quality capacitor or other components is absurd. Once the manufacturing chain is established, there is no reason higher end components should cost hundreds of dollars a piece. The initial setup costs are key, but once the assembly lines are established it is done.
I love almost everything about this product. I should start by saying I am a fan of this area of audio. I have a load of vintage gear but for the l past year I have jumped deep into the Chi-fi world and think it is great fun! Love the results in sound quality. One question. Why is it that anyone would need balanced runs for amps like these. All connectors are going to be in shorter lengths weakening any argument for balanced access. I would much rather have two sets of rca inputs. My Geshelli J2 is the only audio gear I have with balanced connections so balanced is wasted on me.
Jist came across these. Might be fun dor my stacked lintons! So you have to manually balance the volume in bridged mono mode? If so whats the most accurate way to do that?
I was on the same fence also. I pulled the trigger on 2 of these for half the price of the basX basically. If they don't drive my Q Acoustics 3050i's like I like them too I can return them easily with Amazon. I figured it's worth a shot.
Randy , i currently run thr box x2 hooked up to my sl1200 mkii running my alesis elevate mk5 powered speakers, however i want to got to passive speakers for my 15' x 11' room. Would getting this amp with the elac speakers be a good option still using the box x2 preamp?
@@kobee01 I feel like they push the midrange too forward and the bass is either not dynamic enough or smoothed out. I don’t mind a tube on the front end of a preamp with a solid state power amp. For certain music I’ve enjoyed it but for the stuff I listen to the most it just doesn’t do much for me
@@cheapaudioman I'm wondering if maybe you are listening to the wrong kind of tube amps (but I get what you are saying - the typical "tubey" sound). If you ever get a chance, listen to a Manley Stingray. It is better sounding than any solid state I've ever heard.
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Yeah, sounds like a good amp, buuuut... IF I'm gonna replace my 1989 Technics SU-600 'New Class A' integrated amp (*) with a modern well built 'low cost' alternative like one of these, I REALLY WANT an amp to ALSO include well set up Bass & Treble tone controls (NOT 1 combined B&T knob, but 2 separate)... 🤔😏
* I bought it new back in the day and it's been serviced a coupla times since, so, she STILL sounds ace! But IF I replace her for something a little more compact, then yeah, MAYYYYYBE I'll go Class D, maybe... 🤔😏
😎🇬🇧
@cheapaudioman I have unifi 2.0 as my main speakers of the house hooked up to an old Yamaha r9. What would you say is the best matched amplifier for these from your experience?
One thing I like about this is the fact that it's a great amp with a single coax out for the sub. Finding a cheap preamp, as decent as the original Magni from Schitt, with a single plug sub out that isn't actually a stereo out, is really hard.
Could you use the fosi audio k5 dac with this? And would that be a good choice?
Fully agreed... this thing really blew me away, and at the $150 price it's almost unbeatable. Maybe completely unbeatable as of now (4/2/24). Certainly the best "small" audio investment I've made over the years.
Thanks as always and regards.
Today I hooked up a new ZA3 and I'm really impressed. I'm using an Audiolab 6000A Play in pre-amp mode and powering a pair of Triangle Borea Bro 3s. I have the sub out on the Fosi connected to a Hsu Labs powered sub. First impressions- the sound stage is much larger, separation of instruments is far better and much more detail is revealed in large, complex orchestral pieces. The only negative is that as good as the Triangles sound with the added power the ZA3 brings to the table, I may have delayed the need to upgrade my speakers.
Note to Fosi audio. Take two sets of the internal boards from these, put them in a bigger box to act as separate left and right mono speakers. This will give you more space on the rear to add better binding posts etc. this means they can sit on a hifi rack with the rest of the gear. I suspect you'll also have better cooling. Plus it will look pretty cool having TWO of their knobs on the front...
Excellent idea!
Given the propensity for manufacturers such as Fosi, Aiyma, Topping, Douk, WiiM, et al to revise/upgrade / expand their line ups at a much faster pace than older mainstream brands, such models may already be on the drawing boards - or be at the end of limited production runs at the time of reading. 😊
Yes to the idea of coupling them in a single unit but making the volume control single for both boards. Also adding the DAC functionality of BT30D Pro would make it the one ring to rule them all budget DAC/completed amp.
Really needs high-pass filter more than anything to make this a killer 2.1 unit. The mono/stereo switch could also be moved to the rear
My two just arrived. I use a digital crossover, a Minidsp SHD, to split the signals to my Maggie LRSs and my dipole subs. So, one ZA3 to drive the Maggies above 120hz, and one ZA3 to drive the subs below. So far, so good. Until now, I used two Adcom 535IIs. It's way to early too make an sound quality judgments. I do like the build quality on the ZA3s.
So you feel these power the LRS properly? I wonder if you added another one and ran 1 per panel.
So far, so good. Yes, I might add another down the road.@@ericperry72
Yes. I need to know. No LRS’s but MMG’s and SMGa’s.
If you are planning on running in mono and want to upgrade to sparkos op amps then save yourself $136 on Sparkos op amps and only buy two for the upgrade? In mono you are only using the right channel on both amps so only need two sparkos op amps to upgrade and not 4. Confirmed with Fosi.
300$+ you can buy better things
@@beprotishen such as?
Okay Randy, so....I was EXTREMELY skeptical of your review. I decided recently to take the plunge and getting one of these off of Amazon. This thing is so dang dynamic, it blows my mind. At 6 ohms and all that power, I'm just amazed. I'm never doubting you...or for that matter, Class D again.
I recently picked up a $2600 stereo on impulse (Kef 350/CXA81/sub) - sounded absolutely amazing, but I regretted spending so much money for diminishing returns. Swapped it out for the Fosi ZA3, q150 and SVS sub for a fraction of the price and it sounds as good or better. This is a killer pairing.
I did end up buying one of these (actually I bought two, but more on this later), mainly based on this review and I have compared the sound quality to my Denon 545r receiver and was shocked to hear that the sound quality matched it! I didn't really crank it up though as I don't really listen to music very loud. This did prompt me to get a second ZA3 to try them out in dual mono mode. I was after the wider sound stage and stereo separation. However, the second unit I bought, when I put it on my system and hooked it up to the VU3 meter, I had noticed that in mono mode, the needle was fluctuating up and down a few DB. The prior unit I bought wasn't doing it. This had me concerned that I thought the output was fluctuating DC, so I put a meter on the speaker outs of the amplifier, but it wasn't passing DC. I swapped the channels, and the problem moved, so it was an issue with the new er amp. At first I was thinking that perhaps the common ground connection of the VU3 might have caused something, but others have used the amps dual mono with a VU meter and mentioned nothing of a fluctuation. So, I really didn't know what was causing it, and I was very concerned as I had my KEF Q-350's hooked up to the system. So I just returned the 2nd amplifier. I didn't bother getting a replacement. Even though I do like the sound of the ZA3, I do have my concerns over the longevity of these class D amplifiers. I think it is probably good for my computer system, but for a main system, I think I will stick with a class AB amplifier. I have the Emotiva TA-1 on my radar now. That looks like a nice all in one solution. For the system I am putting together for the ZA3, I probably will hook up a Wiim Ultra to it as a pre-amp.
@myaudioquest
0 seconds ago
I bought the Fosi ZA-3 (with 48V power supply) thinking it might be a keeper. What I discovered was a mixed bag...thin in the mid-range and bass. I also did not care for the volume control, cheap like in build and function. On the plus side is exceptional clarity in the treble but requires a sub-woofer to add body and weight to the music. Best used with a bass centric loudspeaker or possibly use two amplifiers. My two cents!
I bought a Fosi ZA3 for the garage/shop. It worked well initially, but the left channel crapped out yesterday after three days use. It is packed to go back. I now move a proper, full-size amp out there during the days I’m in there working.
In my opinion, these new, cheap chip-amps are good, and have their place, but are no substitute for the real thing, especially long term.
ZA3 is NOT bridged, it's just a right channel mono. There's some benefit, (slightly more power, no cross talk), but if you really want a mono block amp with 2X more power, the Aiyma A07 max is still the king 🤴
2nd - I don't like how everybody says/wants to add this or that or everything and the kitchen sink.
If this were my design. I would eliminate the sub out, eliminate the volume, make it bridgeable, move switches to the back, 1 switch for stereo / bridged mono and another switch for high pass, low pass, full range.
Make this a solid affordable amp with singleness of purpose, then put all the bells and whistles into a processor, dac, pre-amp, whatever?!?
It is PBTL mono which means parallel bridge.
@zangalucian you don't get anywhere near a true bridge gain
I was looking for a comparison with the BT20A PRO, so thank you for this review. You should update your recommended list in the description to match what you recommend as you get new stuff!
I wonder how many people would like to see a Fosi P3 preamp with balanced outputs and no tone controls in the near future???
Well guys I've purchased two of these highly recommended by Randy cheap amps over the past few years. If you are wondering, they are cheap amps. They feel cheap in hand, knobs and connectors are cheap feeling, they visually scream cheap. Sound wise, they have both sounded like cheap amps.....they sound just ok.....I've used them as soundbar replacements paired with cheap bookshelf speakers and they do the job nicely. Neither of them sound, look or feel anything like a replacement for an actual hifi amp. If you're looking for a computer desktop speaker solution, a soundbar solution or are a kid, a student or very limited financially these amps will get you by in a pinch. If you are looking for an actual hifi amp then your money will be much better spent on a used market mid- fi amp. Randy is a good hype man and the amps he recommends do seem to be generally functional however he could do a better job reminding people that the word cheap is in the name of his channel for a reason. If you buy one of these amps you will probably get something that works and doesn't sound painful but you should also expect to be underwhelmed with your purchase......a lot of hype in the video but once in the hand you realize it's still a very cheap audio product
Just an FYI, these are back in stock on Amazon and the 15% off code still works. I bought two of them.
Cool! I just grabbed one using the code. Thanks for the info! ( Thank You Cheap Audio Man!!! )
i hope someday fosi adds high pass filters to their amps....that would make them awesome.
On the audio science forum they said that's coming on their next release.
@@Nickporter17 oh wow I was wondering which amp he was referring to in the video I hope that is it
@@mcjonner I was wondering that too. It's gonna be a different amp.
Watched your video and some others after that, outcome is that I've just ordered two ZA3's(48v)!! Let's experience how they drive my AE520 speakers. I will have to wait a few weeks but I expect it will be worth waiting for 🙂
If you only use it stereo mode, not as monoblock's, then very good and also cheap alternative is YJCO D325X
Man watching reviews on this thing has my hyped as hell for it. I'm gonna just splurge and get two from the start and maybe mess with opamps in the future.
A volume bypass feature, excellent idea! Maybe as a 'notch' the knob locks into at max volume = completely disengage
Could sound even better
LETS GO!!! ❤🎉❤🎉.
James! thank you so much!
@@cheapaudioman Thank you for all you do for the audio enthusiast community!! Happy Holidays brother. :)
I wouldn’t call Japanese German and American parts (TI chip)“Chi-fi” . Lotta people hating on these things in the comment. I bought the V3 and that’s run Every speaker I’ve thrown at it at high volumes without it even getting up to room temperature, longevity is the only test that remains.
A quick way to get beyond the totally silly marketing specs on these Class D amps is the following... Wattage = Amperage times Voltage. Their largest Power Supply is 48 volts times 5 amps so that equates to 240 TOTAL WATTS POWER CONSUMPTION THAT IS EVEN AVAILABLE. In addition, most class D amps run around 85% efficient to their output. So multiply that total power consumption of 240 watts by 85% efficiency (.85) and that equals to around 204 watts MAXIMUM power available, or 102 watts per channel MAXIMUM power. There are short term ways of getting some very short-term power using massive capacitors, but these smaller class D amps don't have them. They are good values for realistic listening of bookshelf speakers but probably not good for larger floor standers in larger rooms or more difficult impedance speakers if looking for real power.
These little amps are perfect for adding dedicated amplification to individual speakers in a home theater setup. The small footprint is perfect for adding more power to a center channel and really stepping up your listening experience.
What about volume bypass though?
@@peterwood2633 explain
Thanks Cheapaudioman for showing alternatives to expensive gear. It helps getting to the end of the month... Happy festive days!
Thanks, good stuff as always. Two just arrived this morning. The most intriguing thing is.... it looks a ZD3 is in the works. No idea what it will hold, or if it will ship, but the line drawing looks great.
Congrats, where did you order yours? I ordered one from Amazon on Dec 20th...9 days later it still hasn't shipped. Maybe minions are still frantically assembling mine in the factory?
@@paulc9564 Got lucky and stumbled on them in Amazon the day they released. Bought 2 sight unseen...set them up this morning and so far so good. Still waiting to get some info regarding the pin out on the 12v trigger so I can try to make my own with a recycled wall wart and remote outlet (or maybe a Clapper :) No idea if it will work, but can't see why it wouldn't. Now I'm keeping a close eye out for the (seemingly) impending ZD3.
I was seriously about to ask about the BT20A Pro, and then you mentioned it. Lol, i was considering it for a temporary unit to power some speakers and a sub.
I have a BT30D Pro with 2x tpa3255 that i use for a desktop pc setup and hooked it up to my 4ohm cerwin vega towers and let my audiophile mate hear it and then compare to my Onkyo receiver. So the thing with class d is there is no finesse or depth. Its just on you like a angry dog. Onkyo is a atmos model and even in pure mode a/b just sounds more refined where the class d is on you and has a flat soundstage. Loud as hell btw. I’d be happy to use it in a outdoor setting as its load and portable. Drives my old subwoofers that have had their amps die fine. Use a polk sub and two old all aluminium infinity home theatre speakers on my desk. Overkill
Input was a wiim pro into a modi 3e playing Flac from my nas server. Desktop is pc to Topping 30ii lite. I prefer the modi with the ESS chipset on my onkyo. Topping is not as musical sounding as the Schitt more clinical
I rolled tubes tonight and I’m getting ready to roll OpAmps in my ZA3
Wish they would go back to a separate on/off toggle switch and maybe do a deal with sparkos/burson for op amp upgrade at purchase, you get a choice of power supply after all.
That is a swell idea for them, I hope they take notice.
Use banana plugs and the binding posts aren't a problem. What I would really like to see them compared with is Hypex Nilai at ten times the price.
I wonder how this would compare against an A/B amp like the emotiva a2m. I know on paper its down on power, but i wonder....
I have inherited a Passlabs X-150 preamp with balanced outputs, which helped me pull the FOMO plug on two of these ZA3s, but am still confused as to whether they actually need a preamp (What actually is the ZA3? Is it an integrated, or a power amp?) let alone me actually needing two of them - because they cant be parallel bridged.
Thanks for the next great video. First, your review convinced me to buy HiFiMan Edition XS and now I ordered ZA3 😂.
The difference in mono vs. Stereo is largely in the additional power supply: you see, when you want to play difficult-to-drive speakers off a 5-Amp power supply, you'll see shortage of current from that power supply. 48 or 32 Volts don't make much of a difference here, because low-impedance speakers need current more than voltage.
9:32 what about buying 5 of them to connect to a surround sound capable sound card on a PC ?
Great review Randy. I was shocked at how much better this sounds than my Aiyima A07 with the same TPA3255 chip. I swore I wouldn't buy another typically lean Class D amp, unless it had tone controls to compensate.
But to my surprise, this is the first Class D amp I've ever heard that has BODY, it sounds warm! Like you say, the image is big and wide. It's airy. The sound of my Magnepan LRS+ has moved up another notch, they're more spacious now, and with more depth. I've only had it for a few hours, so it still needs burning in, but so far I'm pleasantly surprised. Some people might think it's too laid back and slightly soft, if they like a forward, harder, brighter presentation, but not me. It sounds pleasing with all kinds of music I've tried, as long as it's well recorded. It's especially good with separation, pinpointing locations of instruments across the soundstage. And then, throw in a sub-out that works in conjunction with the volume control. Bravo!
Trying too hard to do what? Not sure what that means. But let me emphasize that the A07 has been my fave class D amp over the past 18 months, so I'm certainly not criticizing it. May I ask what speakers you are using to reach these conclusions? It may be a system matching problem. The Za3 has a warm, laid back presentation, not forward, maybe a touch soft, but always a pleasant listen. It easily differentiates between radio stations using different amounts of reverb, which was never so apparent before.
But, perhaps because I had just switched over from listening to an Aiyima A07 that sounded stressed under a 48 volt supply on its 50 volt max. capacity caps, the differences between the Za3 and A07 was more emphasized.
Tell you what, when I get a chance, I'll do another comparison, just out of curiosity. But so far, it's pleasant and I'm pleased. @@TheMittster
Great news! I'm going to sell my MAC7200 and go with these.
Almost an "audio-fool"...but you saved me. Keeping my modest 2.1 system. Watching your channel for 2 years...and with the "Best Ever Heard" component on a 2-week recurrence, I have saved about $10,000 in rabbit hole expenditures. Thanks! Bring back the Buddha.
Just ordered 2 using your link. Now have to find a balanced preamp with remote. Thanks Randy
Please get back to us and share what you’ve got
Wiim?
@@Rota42Videosive got the Vincent Audio preamp! Driving my burson audio monoblocks, smsl a300', and the Fossi now!
perfect, i hope it will become available soon on amazon too because i want one. you know what really is a huge selling point on top for me on those little guys? as long as they sound good enough... we live in a world where living costs increases soooo much. if i look at the specs of my old trusty avr and i see something like ''pulling up to 500watts out the wall'' ... electricity is at a price where you really feel that. especially if you listen to music all day pretty much and you have that monster pulling tons of it all day... that gets expensive. those little class D in comparison... you re literally saving money every day
Just ordered mine off of the Fosi web site. Fosi gives you options on what you wish to order. I purchased my ZA3 from them without a power supply (because I already have a half dozen different linear power supplies), for only - now get this - $88 USD. With a power supply, Fosi will charge you around $128 (from their website).
i thought a remote control would be super important to me but theres something funny i noticed: the volume buttons on my old denons remote went bad so i had to go to it every time. instead, i just told him to allways turn on in my room listening volume. i usually dont turn it up louder...and if i want to make it more quiet in the evening, i just use my phone for that because i cast my music from my phone anyways and i can adjust the volume of my chromecast audio and spotify and whatever there too so the only thing i use my remote for is to turn it on and off... but then again, i have an smsl su1 and in the morning i need to go there and turn it on anyways so the remote is mostly a gimmick
If I'm using my phone to run Spotify, can I use the volume on the phone? I had something similar and I had to turn the volume on max on the unit in order to get max volume with my phone controls and this caused a bad hiss. I'm trying to avoid that.
Amp of the year my rear end. All these cheap ChiCom amps are designed to make you buy the next version months later. Save your money and buy something solid for 500-700. Slowly build a system, don’t waste your money.
Well chi-fi usually upgrade their stuff in rapid pace while "traditional" companies can rest in their laurels a bit too long.
No ones forcing you to buy the next thing, you can buy one that suits you and dont buy a thing until the one you bought fucks up. These amps are up there with the 500-700 dollar amps, easily.
Agreed, amazon is not the answer.
These little amps are great for the monet. As long as your not super critical. I do wonder what the durability is on alot of them.(can u get five or ten years of daily use from one?)
You can't expect too much from this channel. Only one of 100 reviewers would wast their and our time with reviews about junk Chineese products.
I’m looking at using this to drive some NS10 or CLA10s for mixing.
Looks promising
What would be a suitable preamp with bluetooth and remote to use with this power amp. I have elac 5.2 speakers, and use a powered sub
I really like Sparkos op-amps, as well! Another option that might be better for some folks, and cost a bit less - is the Muses02; which is an IC op-amp that costs about $45.
I already have the Sparkos on my J2. Perhaps I will try out the Muses02 on the ZA3.
@@bling5279 I tried about 5 different IC op-amps, and I think the Muses02 is the best of those - but I like the SS3602 more. And if you can fit the SS2590 (like in the RCA socket on the J2S, with a riser) then that is even better.
@@NeilBlanchard I currently have a single SS3602 on the J2. Maybe I’ll get another and put them on the ZA3. Then try the SS2590 on the J2 instead.
Do you guys know where sells them OP Amps? And are they hard to install?
@@Zimmy_1981No they are not hard to install but still very annoying. Threre are caps close to the op amp socket and you need to wiggle them out straight to not bend the legs. I have done it a few times and I will do it again but I won't ab test it. Good luck and hope you enjoy op amp rolling.
It seems like they're already workinh on the next one. Using other texas instruments chip with pffb (i think this is it) which allows for muche better performance. They've also been listening (as usual) to a lot of feedback from their customers to improve this next new unit. I fully agree on the volume bypass switch! Had already told them in a forum.
It would be nice if they made a good pre amp: two SE inputs (or one SE and one balanced), SE output, good remote (using bluetooth), decent headphone out, and maybe a sub-out.
Mine stripped out all PRAT.
Still warming up.
Convinced but how much any better sound can one get coming from marantz sr6010 av receiver with b&w 685s2 3.1 speakers ..all being same series, to, 3 mono setup with 48v ps ..again over the same setup? ..(av receiver connected to za3s w rca)
P.S. The latest ZA3 user manual makes reference to a ZD3 component. Perhaps a new DAC, or preamp in the works? Perhaps with XLR outs?? Haven't seen anything from the kickstart yet.
Very nice! Appreciate your videos!
Mono blocks normally run in either "series" which give you more gain so go louder, or "parallel" which gives you little or no more gain, but should give you more ability to drive harder loads. Looking on the fosi website these are configured in parallel so I reckon the actual power output between having one amp or two mode wont be that much differnt, what your hearing is probaly the ability of the two amps to drive lower ohm loads a lot better which would make the speakers sound a lot more dynamic.
I kind of wonder if the V3 would do the same thing when freeing up the other channel?
These are nice amps, but let’s be honest would these really be a better choice over something like the Marantz PM6007 which is retailing in the UK at £299, I guess it’s a subjective conclusion to say the least and as Randy has often mentioned, space and convenience play a big part. I have had the A07 Max, V3 and so on and they don’t present as smooth as the Marantz PM6007 or quite as full. This is not a surprise though. The AO7 Max out of the box by comparison did sound a little flat, dry and thuddy in the bass. Maybe an upgrade to the op amp may improve things slightly but I doubt to the extent of matching my PM6007 in many aspects, is it a fair comparison…probably not really. Mono setup the power increase is great but that is only volume and maybe a little better separation in general but then we are touching £300 currently for a pair of ZA3 bare amps. It does start to get expensive thereafter ie adding a Dac etc and by the way the Dac in the Marantz is quite decent, a lot better than the Iotavx SA3 which I replaced with the PM6007. Currently in the UK I don’t think anyone could find a better value amp than the PM6007 and I have never been a fan boy or someone who’s a big Marantz fan in particular. Still, just my two pennies and I can’t say that either choice would particularly disappointing especially if you are willing to splash out on op amps, Dacs and maybe better cables. I would still love to hear the ZA3 via balanced at some point but in my own mind I would imagine it might sound like a beefed up V3 which is no bad thing at least in the current budget sector.
Yes
I have to agree with you on the Marantz PM6007. I read these comments of all the different way these guys are buy these little amps and trying to make them sound better and all that work and money could buy the Marantz with money left over and a lot more time of just listening to great music.
Hopefully you bought the marantz 9 months ago, its doubled in price now.
2 fosi audio za3 ran mono or emotiva basx a2?
Just wondering why not get a used Parasound/Emotiva/Rotel 100watt amp instead of two ZA3?
Does anyone know if you run a pair of these in mono and swap in different op amps, do you need to do both left and right on both amps (4 total op amps) or do you only have to change out the right sides on each?
For anyone with the same question, this is from Fosi Audio...
"Hi friend, you can just replace the R-OPAMP one. For mono mode, we only need to replace the right channel's op-amp."
Can someone help me understand how one gets the source into two separate amps to run them in mono? Be kind. Totally new and interested in the hobby. 😅
Left rca in one amp and right rca in the other
I say these today on their YT Channel. I like it. Surprised the V3 is more powerful tho. I got the V3 with Orange knob and 48V from Fosi for $110 on sale a few months ago.
That thing is sick. Fosi Audio is legit. Can't wait for them to make something like that with TWS bluetooth pairing. I use these ZK-1001B Mono Bluetooth Amplifier Boards and they work just like wireless ear pod do, but are wireless monoblocks.
The sub out surely has something to do with listening to their customers; that’s a major complaint about the V3, that the output is not controlled by the volume knob.
Just wanted to say that many are doing the review for the ZA3, but I always prefer to watch your videos... Thanks!!
Interested in a comparison to the Aiyima A07 Max in both stereo and dual mono. I understand the extra features but I don't need those. You basically stated that the A07 Max is as good in stereo so I'm hoping that two of them are just are good in mono because they're half the price.
The A07 max is actually a bridge able mono block, whereas the ZA3 is just right channel mono
@@booobtooober Apologies, I don't understand what you mean.
A class d with good chips and integration and vu meters like luxman would be my end game. Well I have a purifi amp. Which is end game for now.
The crazy thing is that the V3 and mostly probably this amp is close to same sound quality. We live in good hifi times
I think a lot of people probably get the wrong impression with Chinese amps. They are really meant for entry level and best value for low cost. Are they gonna match a lot of class a/b or more expensive gear? Probably not long term use. But it’s all relative to price and budget and what you want to invest in. I played the chi-fi musical chairs for a long time and finally just went class a/b when I could afford it. They all have their place and are good for specific things. It’s weird how people in general can’t understand that. Good and bad is relative to budget. Just some thoughts.
I have a question? Let's say that I would use 3x fosi for a home theater, namely for the right, left and center speakers.
The question is: if I would mark the speakers as "large" on the receiver and add a subwoofer (3) to each RLC speaker, because each fosi has a sub output. Does that make sense? Because more than 50% of the movie sound comes to the center and I love the bass in speech. Let's say when some dragon talks. Or transformers deep voice. Therefore, I would like to strengthen it exactly in the center and also on RL. Would that boost the bass on center and on RL?
How long before they pull a OnePlus? Both are based in Shenzhen, both initially offered high value electronics that outperformed devices costing hundreds more. Once brand loyalty was achieved, Oneplus steadily racheted up their prices with each device release until reaching price parity with their competitors.
I have these AmP Its just my opinion, I add a Tube Preamplifier to it and a Headphones Amp attach to the tube then attach to FoSi sounds better
How should I setup my setup I have a ampapa a1 on the way and my source audio is digital from hdmi should I use this instead of a cheap DAC?
It would be interesting to see a comparison of sound quality between this unit and some more expensive but still affordable options such as the Emotiva BasX A2 or TA1. I'm limiting the comparison to SQ because the a higher price tends to buy more features.
my old desktop system (with awfully obsolete players) still has better sound than most setup, as shown by score even compared to jriver/modern daps
the difference isnt exactly sq, more of tunings, desktop doesnt have special tune since its free for everyone, but neutral and reliable
dx7/9 will sound better
trust me bro source
I wonder this as well paired with wiim pro+ with decent dac and eq
Just wondering. While checking out my ZA3 with 3 Sparko's opamp's connected to the Emotiva PT2 and a old Denon DVD/CD player connected via optical. I did this to keep the setup as simple as possible. Having purchased a pair of RCA to XLR cables and connected the ZA3 from the PT2. Compared it to my Ao7 with Burr/Brown opamp's and also the Fossi V3 with Muse opamp's. I quickly came to the decision that the ZA3 sounded much better. Sound stage width and depth, instrument placement, vocals, midrange and bass were noticeably better IMHO. Long story short. After all that business I flipped the switch from RCA to the XLR connection and again quickly came to conclusion that it sounded way better than the RCA's. Asked Fossi and the told me that the XLR's will sound better than the RCA's. Again wondering why none of the reviews I have watched make the A/B comparison between them. It is only connecting another set of cables and then flipping the switch. Please Randy could you make the comparison and give us your opinion.
Here's how to destroy the audio electronics establishment: An inexpensive "Integrated Amp" with only digital inputs, built in DSP, crossover, and room correction. It should also have separate low and high amp-level outputs, which are fed by the built-in crossover, plus a line level subwoofer output. (Wireless sub optional.) That right there would KILL OFF lots of high end audio. Hell, people could buy direct from factory, flat-pack kit speaker sets that just have a tweeter and mid-woofer, and with the right subwoofer, this could sound better than many expensive and mid-tier speakers.
I bought one of these a while back, but what can I add to plug in a good set of headphones?
Does the sub out works the same in either mono or stereo mode? I noticed that there is less bass coming out of RCA sub out or no bass at all in mono mode.
These one function amplifiers have way over advertised power ratings well into amplifier clipping. This is a 75 watt x 2 amplifier at 36 volts at 4 ohm, or 40 watts at 8 ohm x2 amp. Above that and the amp goes into clipping.
It is a good 40 watt amp. They should use industry standards to test amplifier power and not offer misleading ratings, until they do that they will just pollute the earth with unnecessary waste.
You have no proof they are misleading. Other than your opinion.....you do not know if the ZA3 specs are misleading
They used to use a standard rms rating of 20-20,000 hZ at 8 ohms. Now power ratings are rated at 1,000 hZ only.
You can do the classic, long runs from the preamp to the amps right behind the speakers with very short speaker runs.
How do they work with 8 ohm speakers?
How do these compare to a basic Cambridge Audio A1 which are £50 or $50 on eBay ?
Will this be able to push a pair of Klipsch AW-650
Just ordered a ZA3. Think I got the order in before the January units sold out. Not really impressed with the xlr inputs. None of the pre amps I look at have them ( not even Fosi's ).
What RMS & Ohms should speakers be to pair with this amp?
I'm having some confusion. Can anyone say if the ZA3 sums the stereo inputs into a mono output when in mono mode? Or am I completely off on how this works? I'm still learning.
When ran in a mono mode, you must have two of these. One ZA3 for the left channel and one ZA3 for the right channel. Both left and right mono amps will have only ONE rca input from the preamp. They will both use the right channel rca input and the right channel +/- speaker outputs. If you have some questions about the set-up, go to Williston Audio Labs here on UA-cam and look up his ZA3 test / review.
Amplifier of the year???
Are you joking?
It is flawed in as many ways as it can be!
It doesn't deliver the advertised power, its frequency response is load dependant, and even the on/off switch is in the volume button, like so many entry-level japanese equipments from...
...3 decades ago!
A product is only inexpensive when it provides a lot of value for the money, and that's certainty not the case with this product.
I understand that Fosi has sent demo units for many reviewers (that's no coincidence that so many are reviewing it right now), but anyhow...
Yep, it's an infomercial.
Your right it's a shame fosi didn't add pffb to fix load dependency as well as upping internal component quality. I personally think there's a market for a slightly higher end v3 style tpa3255 amp. The chip definitely has potential. Why they recommend 48v is beyond me also. 42v is perfect, after that the chip starts to run warm.
I own Bose 901 and have a Bryston 1B preamp what new affordable amp would you
Recommend to use. Appreciate your help.
what preamp and speakers you guys recommend with this amp in a regular stereo mode with one unit? I would use it with my phone, Bluetooth, my laptop, for music snd movies also.
What do we have in class a and ab amplifiers?
Denon 600ne sound vs ZA3 Dual mono ?
How much, in percentage , is Fosi ZA3 better than Aiyima A07 Max ?
Yes, full size binding posts and volume defeat and pretty much perfect. Beyond that all Fosi needs to do is nail it with their next pre-amp to go along with this "higher-end" amp line and for that they need 3-4 inputs, and remote and thats about it and you'd be on your way to being able to build a super high-end electronics front end that could power just about anything.
That's the amp I'm waiting for.
The notion that established electronics manufacturers
have to undergo more elaborate and expensive processes in order to
build a higher quality capacitor or other components is absurd.
Once the manufacturing chain is established,
there is no reason higher end components
should cost hundreds of dollars a piece.
The initial setup costs are key, but once the assembly lines are established
it is done.
I love almost everything about this product. I should start by saying I am a fan of this area of audio. I have a load of vintage gear but for the l past year I have jumped deep into the Chi-fi world and think it is great fun! Love the results in sound quality. One question. Why is it that anyone would need balanced runs for amps like these. All connectors are going to be in shorter lengths weakening any argument for balanced access. I would much rather have two sets of rca inputs. My Geshelli J2 is the only audio gear I have with balanced connections so balanced is wasted on me.
my setup 1 : rca (DAC) to rca (za3 ) for music , 2 rca(DAC) to mixer ( beringer XR12 ) to xlr ( za3 ) for karaoke . 2 inputs very helpful
If you had to choose between this and the WiiM amp, what would you choose?
WiiM, in a hearbeat. I have no need for this amp with a bird's nest of cables, no digital and no remote when the WiiM does it all.
Jist came across these. Might be fun dor my stacked lintons! So you have to manually balance the volume in bridged mono mode? If so whats the most accurate way to do that?
How would running two in mono compare in quality and value to something like a BAS-X?
Same question.
I was on the same fence also. I pulled the trigger on 2 of these for half the price of the basX basically. If they don't drive my Q Acoustics 3050i's like I like them too I can return them easily with Amazon. I figured it's worth a shot.
Randy , i currently run thr box x2 hooked up to my sl1200 mkii running my alesis elevate mk5 powered speakers, however i want to got to passive speakers for my 15' x 11' room. Would getting this amp with the elac speakers be a good option still using the box x2 preamp?
Just curious, why do you hate tubes?
@@kobee01 I feel like they push the midrange too forward and the bass is either not dynamic enough or smoothed out. I don’t mind a tube on the front end of a preamp with a solid state power amp. For certain music I’ve enjoyed it but for the stuff I listen to the most it just doesn’t do much for me
@@cheapaudioman I'm wondering if maybe you are listening to the wrong kind of tube amps (but I get what you are saying - the typical "tubey" sound). If you ever get a chance, listen to a Manley Stingray. It is better sounding than any solid state I've ever heard.
Thanks Randy. Any thoughts on a/the ZD3?